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Creativity in the Bag with Mari Omori Pavan ... - Yellow Magazine

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WINE<br />

It’s Easier Than You Th<strong>in</strong>k<br />

to Get a Pass<strong>in</strong>g Grade<br />

W<strong>in</strong>e 101<br />

by PHILIP CUSIMANO<br />

Icardi Dolcetto d’Alba cru Rousori 04<br />

Icardi is one of Italy’s brightest stars. The w<strong>in</strong>ery is located <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Piedmont region<br />

and made from <strong>the</strong> Dolcetto grape. The w<strong>in</strong>e offers bright red berry fruit <strong>in</strong> a medium<br />

body <strong>with</strong> undertones of pepper and spice. A very versatile w<strong>in</strong>e that is at home <strong>with</strong><br />

both white and red grilled meats as well as certa<strong>in</strong> broiled and baked fish. It is best<br />

quaffed <strong>with</strong> an ever so slight chill. As to its classification: <strong>the</strong> key is that Dolcetto<br />

is a grape and <strong>the</strong> w<strong>in</strong>e takes <strong>the</strong> grape’s name. Hence it is a varietal. $20.00<br />

Chateau de Viviers Chablis 2004<br />

Chablis is a region located <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Burgundy Appellation of France and is famous for<br />

white w<strong>in</strong>e produced <strong>with</strong> <strong>the</strong> chardonnay grape. This offer<strong>in</strong>g is a medium-bodied<br />

cru <strong>with</strong> good balance of pear fruit and m<strong>in</strong>erality <strong>in</strong> a dry, crisp package. Good <strong>with</strong><br />

all types of seafood. As to its classification: <strong>the</strong> w<strong>in</strong>e is named for a def<strong>in</strong>ed region<br />

– Chablis – and is a generic. $16.00<br />

Zaca Mesa Z Cuvee 2003<br />

Zaca Mesa is one of my favorite California producers and is located on <strong>the</strong> central<br />

coast. Z Cuvee is a blend of Mourvedre, Grenache and Syrah that is light bodied <strong>with</strong><br />

bright, juicy, red and black berry fruit <strong>with</strong> light h<strong>in</strong>ts of spice. Ano<strong>the</strong>r w<strong>in</strong>e that<br />

can go <strong>with</strong> various red and white meat dishes. Z Cuvee is a proprietary w<strong>in</strong>e. While<br />

any producer can make a w<strong>in</strong>e blended <strong>with</strong> <strong>the</strong> same grapes, only Zaca Mesa can<br />

label it Z Cuvee. $16.00<br />

September cometh and none too soon! With its arrival,<br />

we know that we have survived <strong>the</strong> worst of ano<strong>the</strong>r Houston<br />

summer and <strong>the</strong> best time of <strong>the</strong> year is not far away. The<br />

holiday season, a time for fun, family, and <strong>in</strong>creased social<br />

<strong>in</strong>teraction (can anyone say parrrttty?). Accompany<strong>in</strong>g this<br />

festive time is an <strong>in</strong>creased <strong>in</strong>terest <strong>in</strong> all th<strong>in</strong>gs “w<strong>in</strong>e”. This<br />

is, <strong>in</strong> fact, <strong>the</strong> busiest time of year for those of us <strong>in</strong>volved<br />

<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> market<strong>in</strong>g of <strong>the</strong> fruit from <strong>the</strong> v<strong>in</strong>e. For many<br />

w<strong>in</strong>eries, <strong>the</strong> success of <strong>the</strong>ir entire year h<strong>in</strong>ges on <strong>the</strong>ir sales<br />

dur<strong>in</strong>g October, November and December.<br />

Given <strong>the</strong> above, what better time for a basic <strong>in</strong>troduction<br />

(or review) of w<strong>in</strong>e? It is easy to feel <strong>in</strong>timidated by <strong>the</strong><br />

world of w<strong>in</strong>e. With so many offer<strong>in</strong>gs and recommendations,<br />

it’s hard to know where to beg<strong>in</strong>. The first step is to become<br />

more comfortable <strong>with</strong> w<strong>in</strong>e by simplify<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> classifications.<br />

Let’s start <strong>with</strong> <strong>the</strong> most popular category, table w<strong>in</strong>e.<br />

Table w<strong>in</strong>e is typically between 9% and 15% alcohol and<br />

produced to accompany meals. While <strong>the</strong>re is a whole world<br />

from which to select, basically, <strong>the</strong>re are only three broad<br />

categories.<br />

The first and arguably most popular classification of table<br />

w<strong>in</strong>e is called Varietal. A varietal w<strong>in</strong>e is named after <strong>the</strong><br />

grape from which it is produced. A California varietal w<strong>in</strong>e<br />

must conta<strong>in</strong> at least 75% of a specific type of grape to take<br />

its name. When you buy a California Chardonnay or P<strong>in</strong>ot<br />

Noir, for example, you are guaranteed that at least 75% of<br />

what is conta<strong>in</strong>ed <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> bottle is juice from those grapes,<br />

respectively. The rema<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g 25% can be <strong>the</strong> juice of any<br />

With September’s arrival,<br />

we know <strong>the</strong> best time of <strong>the</strong> year<br />

is not too far away.<br />

o<strong>the</strong>r type of grape(s). It is also possible that <strong>the</strong> w<strong>in</strong>e is<br />

100% sourced from one grape variety. Many European<br />

countries will only name a w<strong>in</strong>e for a grape if its contents<br />

are 100% of that specific variety. Some popular varietal<br />

w<strong>in</strong>es <strong>in</strong>clude <strong>the</strong> follow<strong>in</strong>g: Chardonnay, P<strong>in</strong>ot Grigio,<br />

Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, P<strong>in</strong>ot Noir,<br />

Sangiovese and Riesl<strong>in</strong>g.<br />

The next important category of table w<strong>in</strong>e is called<br />

Generic. A generic w<strong>in</strong>e can be comprised of one or a blend<br />

of several types of grapes but is named after <strong>the</strong> area where<br />

it is produced. The area must be a registered del<strong>in</strong>eated w<strong>in</strong>e<br />

region def<strong>in</strong>ed by geographical boundaries and controlled<br />

by objective w<strong>in</strong>e production regulations. The generic w<strong>in</strong>es<br />

achieve <strong>the</strong>ir dist<strong>in</strong>ctiveness based upon such aspects as grape<br />

blend and ag<strong>in</strong>g. Well known generic w<strong>in</strong>es <strong>in</strong>clude Chianti,<br />

Bordeaux, Barolo, Burgundy, Brunello Alsace, Rh<strong>in</strong>e, Gavi,<br />

Moselle and Rioja. The labels on bottles of <strong>the</strong>se w<strong>in</strong>es<br />

rarely <strong>in</strong>clude <strong>the</strong> grape name.<br />

Our f<strong>in</strong>al category of table w<strong>in</strong>e is called Proprietary. A<br />

proprietary w<strong>in</strong>e is one <strong>in</strong> which a producer creates a w<strong>in</strong>e<br />

and gives it a special name. This name becomes <strong>the</strong> w<strong>in</strong>ery’s<br />

trademark, so to speak, and no o<strong>the</strong>r producer can use it.<br />

The w<strong>in</strong>e is usually a blend but is comprised of only one<br />

type of grape. Well-known proprietary labels <strong>in</strong>clude <strong>the</strong><br />

Opus 1,Tiganello, Flaccianello, Ca<strong>in</strong> Five and Sassicaia.<br />

So relax, don’t be <strong>in</strong>timidated. Learn to classify table<br />

w<strong>in</strong>es <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong>se three broad categories and you will be well<br />

ahead of <strong>the</strong> game.<br />

W<strong>in</strong>es available at Spec's W<strong>in</strong>es, Spirits, & F<strong>in</strong>er Foods, various<br />

locations. Visit specsonl<strong>in</strong>e.com for <strong>the</strong> store nearest you.

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