The Star: March 22, 2018

The Star 35
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Thursday March 22 2018
Fire rages, homes at risk
LUSH: Peter Yealands’ vineyard in the Awatere Valley.
RELAXING: Drop in for an ale or two at the Moa Brewery.
TOWN CENTRE: Seymour Square in
Blenheim.
Wine, beer and warbirds in Marlborough
• By Mike Yardley
DRIVING State Highway
1 to Marlborough is a postquake
revelation, as the road’s
reconstruction continues.
Vast rock gardens protrude
from the Kaikoura Coast shoreline,
reshaping the seascape with
an other-worldly aesthetic. From
the road, the sea now seems to be
a lot further out.
The ongoing road work around
Ohau Point and at Irongate is
particularly compelling – where
mountains have been “moved” to
resurrect the highway.
After departing from
Christchurch, in just over four
hours, the Awatere Valley was
reaching out to greet me as I
arrived into Seddon, the gateway
to New Zealand’s flagship wine
region.
With over 30 cellar doors studding
the Marlborough Wine Trail,
my first stop was at Yealands
Estate, the world’s first carboNZero
winery, established nearly 10
years ago.
Inspired by his love of the land,
Peter Yealands, a towering wine
eco-warrior, has passionately harnessed
the sustainability ethos.
Nestled on the Seaview Peninsula,
the roof of the winery is taken up
by the nation’s largest solar panel
installation (over 1300 of them),
while wind turbines, native plantings
and free-range animals, from
the over-friendly chickens (who
rush you, en masse, like a group
of muggers) to miniature Babydoll
sheep, are all part of the mix.
I savoured many of his signature
vineyard features by taking
a self-guided drive on the 7km
White Route Tour. The expansive
vistas across the undulating folds
of the vineyard, and the rolling
Aratere landscape, are a visual
symphony of nature in harmony.
Lookout Point is a celestial
vantage point to gaze across Cook
Strait, while the South Island’s
tallest mountain outside of the
alps, Mt Tapaue-o-uenuku, looms
to the west. I also encountered
another Peter Yealands trademark,
music in the vines. Just as
Prince Charles swears by talking
to plants, Peter lavishes his
impeccably maintained vine rows
with lashings of classical music.
GRAPHIC: The exhibition halls at the Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre, showcase vintage aircraft from the Great War.
RECONSTRUCTION: “Mountains have been moved.’’ Roadwork
on State Highway 1 north of Kaikoura.
He’s adamant that it boosts their
fruit production.
Onwards to Blenheim, I did
more winery-hopping along the
“golden mile” in Renwick and
Rapaura. As the sun bathed the
Wairau Plains in golden warmth,
I chuckled at the sight of numerous
middle-aged visitors cycling
their way from one cellar door to
the next, in alarmingly wobbly
fashion. Sauvignon Blanc and
oysters. Could there be a better
pairing?
I had my fill at Cloudy Bay’s
Raw Bar, a very swish seasonal
affair, swathed in well-groomed
lawns and gardens, adorned in
hanging egg chairs and oversized
couches. I also ventured to one of
the nation’s most decorated craft
beer enterprises, Moa Brewery.
Beyond the tasting room, their
beer garden’s picnic tables and
shady trees is a sparkling setting
for easy indulgence. Don’t overlook
the food-truck – a converted
1974 Land Cruiser, from which
Sandy’s Grilled Meat Company
cooks up a storm.
I plumped for a Pablo Burger,
a drizzling, decadent taste-bud
sensation bookended in buns.
For a complete change of
scenery on a Marlborough
mini-break, head out to Omaka
Aviation Heritage Centre, located
on the site of Blenheim’s historic
aerodrome.
Two exhibition halls showcase
vintage aircraft, from the two
world wars. The Great War
exhibition, Knights of the Sky,
features a trove of aircraft, both
original and full-scale replicas,
on long-term loan from Sir Peter
Jackson.
Many planes are fully airworthy,
and can be readily deciphered
by whether a drip tray is situated
under their belly. Knights of the
Sky is now complemented by the
World War 2 showcase, Dangerous
Skies.
The magnificently theatrical
dioramas and captivating scenes
depict the aircraft in compelling
context – some recreate actual incidents,
like the plane that crashlanded
into the only tree standing
on Flanders. They are sumptuous
works of art, so thoughtfully and
meticulously created. And the human
stories behind the respective
pilots of the aircraft are vividly
brought to life.
Beyond the flying machines,
the treasure chest of rare war
memorabilia is simply gob-stopping,
including personal items
belonging to the famous Red
Baron himself. I was particularly
struck by the display of artefacts
connected to Hermann Goering,
including the cap he was wearing
in 1945 when he was captured by
the US 7th Army.
A variety of aviators are given
the full-star Weta Workshop
mannequin treatment, like Kiwi
pilot, James Hayter, who was shot
down over England and parachuted
to safety, dropping down
in the middle of a garden party.
The assembled lovelies promptly
swooned over him and offered
him a stiffener. Just imagine it –
quite the floor show.
The collection of magnificent
flying machines are indeed
magnificent, but the personalised
human dimension threaded
throughout the exhibitions, and
the storytelling prowess, packs a
poignant punch.
FAST FACTS:
•Where to stay? Slap bang
in the heart of Blenheim,
just around the corner from
that glorious urban oasis of
Seymour Square, Blenheim
Palms Motel delivers a
delightfully relaxed and
stylish roost. All studios
and units are fully serviced,
elegantly appointed and
individually styled, with free
wi-fi and the full sweep
of Sky Channels. Whether
you’re travelling solo, as a
family, or have romance
on the menu, there’s a
room to suit you. The Spa
Suite is a hands-down
winner with the loved-up.
Ann and Ian are charming
hosts, who will go out of
their way to ensure your
Marlborough getaway is
a memorable one. www.
blenheimpalmsmotel.co.nz