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Chiiz Volume 7 :Fashion Photography

When people stand in front of the mirror to have a good long look at themselves, they always hope to see a better reflection of themselves than what they have seen previously and with all this, they have grown conscious of how they appear and how comfortable they are with what they wear.Not only their clothes, but also their comfort level, express the sense of style and their conformity to the outer world.In this issue, what we have focussed on might not be the mainstream fashion and people might not get the hype that revolves around the fashion world but what we have here is something that is responsible for all that we have achieved so far in this industry. Be it natural beauty by Lynn Theisen, backstage brilliance by Ishaan Nair, or the street fashion by Rohit Arora which is now gaining popularity among the more prominent photographers.The interview with John Rawson is an eye opener. He is has been through it all andhis experiences form a great lesson for all of us. The series of Roshini Kumar with Suhail Nayyar is also a masterpiece in itself which is a true symbol of comfortable fashion statements. Rod Klein and Jorge Gonzalez’s underwater fashion photographs present an altogether different approach to see things.

When people stand in front of the mirror to have a good long look at themselves, they always hope to see a better reflection of themselves than what they have seen previously and with all this, they have grown conscious of how they appear and how comfortable they are with what they wear.Not only their clothes, but also their comfort level, express the sense of style and their conformity to the outer world.In this issue, what we have focussed on might not be the mainstream fashion and people might not get the hype that revolves around the fashion world but what we have here is something that is responsible for all that we have achieved so far in this industry. Be it natural beauty by Lynn Theisen, backstage brilliance by Ishaan Nair, or the street fashion by Rohit Arora which is now gaining popularity among the more prominent photographers.The interview with John Rawson is an eye opener. He is has been through it all andhis experiences form a great lesson for all of us. The series of Roshini Kumar with Suhail Nayyar is also a masterpiece in itself which is a true symbol of comfortable fashion statements. Rod Klein and Jorge Gonzalez’s underwater fashion photographs present an altogether different approach to see things.

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THOSE WHO MADE IT POSSIBLE<br />

DISCLAIMER: ALL PHOTOGRAPHS PUBLISHED BY CHIIZ MAGAZINE HAVE BEEN AUTHORIZED BY THE RESPECTIVE ARTISTS AND ARE PROTECTED UNDER THE COPYRIGHT<br />

LAWS. IT IS FORBIDDEN TO COPY THE MATERIAL OR RESELL IN ANY FORM WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION FROM THE ARTIST. ALL PRODUCT NAMES, TRADEMARKS, LOGOS,<br />

BRANDS AND OTHER DATA PUBLISHED IN THE MAGAZINE ARE THE PROPERTY OF THEIR RESPECTIVE OWNERS. EDITORS ARE NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY CONTENT IN<br />

THE ADVERTISEMENTS. CHIIZ BELIEVES IN PROMOTING THE BEAUTY OF HUMAN FORM AND BODY. WE, UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES, PROMOTE VULGARITY OR OBSCENITY<br />

IN ANY FORM. READER'S DISCRETION IS ADVISED. FOR ANY FURTHER DETAILS VISIT US CHIIZ.COM OR WRITE TO MAGAZINE@CHIIZ.COM. PUBLISHED BY MANSA INC.<br />

CONTENT PROVIDED BY CHIIZ.COM.


Editorial<br />

Tarun Khiwal<br />

Prakhar Garg<br />

Chief Visualizer<br />

Sheetal Mann<br />

EDITORIAL<br />

Design<br />

Priyashi Negi<br />

Yasmeen Sheikh<br />

Analysis<br />

Prateek Kashyap<br />

Noopur Sharma<br />

Writer<br />

Meenal Singh<br />

Shreeja Chaterjee<br />

Karishma Rana<br />

Ankit Tyagi<br />

Sana Singh<br />

Kamana Singh<br />

Technology<br />

Sachin Arora<br />

Ashvin Gajbhiye<br />

Rishabh Jain<br />

Bharat Bhushan<br />

Business Development<br />

Rajesh Basu<br />

Amit Ghosh<br />

Dimas Fajar<br />

Sales<br />

Insaf Khan<br />

Krishna Srinivas<br />

Amit Gupta<br />

Marketing<br />

Kanika Maurya<br />

Anurag Khaneja<br />

Public Relations<br />

Barkha Chandra<br />

Dimple Chaudhary<br />

Staff Photographer<br />

Susana Gomezmoreno<br />

Urshita Saini<br />

Tarundeep Singh<br />

Finance<br />

Neelu Singh<br />

Consultant<br />

Apratim Saha<br />

Mansa Inc.<br />

<strong>Fashion</strong> is about something that comes from within<br />

you. – Ralph Lauren<br />

I am sure Ralph not only referred to the creativity<br />

that a designer craves or finds within himself but<br />

also something that many individuals always strive<br />

to find- a level of satisfaction in being themselves.<br />

When people stand in front of the mirror to have a<br />

good long look at themselves, they always hope to<br />

see a better reflection of themselves than what they<br />

have seen previously and with all this, they have grown conscious of how they<br />

appear and how comfortable they are with what they wear.<br />

Not only their clothes, but also their comfort level, express the sense of style and<br />

their conformity to the outer world. A world that we humans have come to fear in<br />

our own true self and have taken shelter in nuisances which have created gaps<br />

among the civilization of humans and here we stand at crossroads with our very<br />

own self being.<br />

In this issue, what we have focussed on might not be the mainstream fashion and<br />

people might not get the hype that revolves around the fashion world but what we<br />

have here is something that is responsible for all that we have achieved so far in this<br />

industry. Be it natural beauty by Lynn Theisen, backstage brilliance by Ishaan Nair, or<br />

the street fashion by Rohit Arora which is now gaining popularity among the more<br />

prominent photographers.<br />

The interview with John Rawson is an eye opener. He is has been through it all and<br />

his experiences form a great lesson for all of us. The series of Roshini Kumar with<br />

Suhail Nayyar is also a masterpiece in itself which is a true symbol of comfortable<br />

fashion statements. Rod Klein and Jorge Gonzalez’s underwater fashion<br />

photographs present an altogether different approach to see things.<br />

Another mesmerizing story is that of Michael Lee, a street photographer who has<br />

done a commendable job with the expressionism and Zina and Zoya tries that out<br />

on the fashion front. This pair gives a totally different level of satisfaction to the<br />

viewer.<br />

I have come to believe that there is a very fine line between comfortable fashion and<br />

the nonchalant way of expression and fashion is also a little more than just being<br />

comfortable, it is about presenting a style of living to the world. A style that is yours<br />

but makes you of the whole world. The chauvinism you display is the statement you<br />

make every time you step out of your home. Be careful what you portray but also, be<br />

free, because you are.<br />

Regards,<br />

CEO<br />

Mukesh Kumar<br />

Cover Photo<br />

Thom Kerr


CONTENTS<br />

Thom Kerr and the Talk of the Town<br />

24<br />

Gear Review<br />

Nikon D850<br />

30<br />

The Terrible Two’s<br />

Zina & Zoya Singh<br />

31<br />

In Talks with John Rawson<br />

36<br />

Old is Gold - Begum Para Shoot<br />

James Burke<br />

46<br />

Fine Art in the Streets<br />

Michael Lee<br />

49<br />

Tips and Tricks<br />

Your Guide to <strong>Fashion</strong> <strong>Photography</strong><br />

56<br />

App of The Month<br />

Darkr<br />

58<br />

Durga<br />

Sharmishtha Dutta<br />

60<br />

Bringing Bappa Home<br />

Celebrating Ganesh Chaturthi<br />

64<br />

Being Beautiful<br />

Keeping it Natural<br />

68<br />

The Backstage Brilliance<br />

Ishaan Nair<br />

70<br />

Movie Review<br />

High Art<br />

74<br />

Nicotine Soaked Lives<br />

Meriç Aktar<br />

80<br />

Beyond the Normal Imagery<br />

Rod Klein<br />

88<br />

Photo by John Rawson<br />

Current Mood<br />

Arjun Mark<br />

94


Florian Ledoux<br />

Florian Ledoux, 28, is<br />

always in search of<br />

places where nature<br />

is queen and savage,<br />

where the colours of<br />

the earth are never<br />

the same, where men<br />

have a history, where<br />

encounters forge the<br />

spirit, it is alone or<br />

accompanied that he travels the world to share<br />

with us this passion and above all to make us<br />

aware of the fragility of Nature. He spenat last<br />

summer photographing Arctic wildlife in Nunavut<br />

(Baffin, Devon, and Somerset Island) bringing<br />

unique drone images of the different species that<br />

live there.<br />

This year he received the 3rd pla wce at the<br />

international drone photo contest organized<br />

by National Geographic, for a photo he did in<br />

Greenland. Insta: @florian_ledoux_photographer<br />

Scattered Flights<br />

Nikon D5 400mm F/7.1 1/640s ISO2000


Brothers-in-Arms<br />

DJI FC6310 9mm F/8 1/15s ISO100<br />

Another Sloppy Day<br />

Nikon D5 400mm F/6.3 1/160s ISO2500


Bridging The Atlas<br />

DJI FC6310 9mm F/8 1/640s ISO100<br />

Park Stroll<br />

DJI FC6310 9mm F/8 1/800s ISO100<br />

Just Another Day<br />

DJI FC6310 9mm F/8 1/160s ISO100<br />

Bloodshed Waters<br />

Nikon D5 400mm F/9 1/1000s ISO500


Snow Owl - Focussed<br />

NIKON D3S 600mm F/5 1/1250s ISO1250<br />

Red-throated Divers - Duck Love<br />

NIKON D500 600mm F/5.6 1/640s ISO400<br />

@terjekolaasphotos<br />

N o r w e g i a n<br />

photographer, Terje<br />

Kolaas has been a<br />

keen birder since<br />

his early childhood<br />

and started his<br />

photographic career<br />

with an old analog<br />

Nikon FE2. Since<br />

then, both Terje and Nikon has evolved,<br />

and from being a typical snap-shot<br />

photographer, he has now specialized<br />

creating clean, intimate and artistic<br />

images of birds that actually can<br />

decorate any living room wall.<br />

“A clean background leaves the bird’s<br />

personality undisturbed. Therefore I<br />

love to shoot in pure snow or clean<br />

desert sand. In Norway, I have access<br />

to snow 6 months a year, making it the<br />

perfect country for photography in my<br />

opinion”, Terje says. He runs his own<br />

company, guiding birdwatchers and<br />

photographers to the best birds and<br />

photo sites in Norway.<br />

Snow Owl - Lunch Tales<br />

NIKON D3S 600mm F/5 1/1000s ISO640


White Pelican - Gulping The Shot<br />

NIKON D4S 24mm F/6.3 1/2000s ISO320<br />

Waxwings - Chatter Boxes<br />

NIKON D3S 600mm F/5 1/1600s ISO800<br />

European Shags - Black in Blizzard<br />

NIKON D3S 420mm F/6.3 1/1250s ISO640


Rockhopper Penguins - Demanding Screams<br />

NIKON D4S 14mm F/2.8 1/250s ISO500<br />

Arctic Skua and Kittiwake - Rustle Over Fish<br />

NIKON D700 500mm F/6.3 1/1250s ISO200


S<br />

ezer<br />

Çekin always loved<br />

natural beauty of earth<br />

and the touch of history within<br />

humans. His vision is to stir<br />

the emotions of viewers. He is<br />

passionate about capturing the<br />

moments of human conditions,<br />

cultures, and humane interactions<br />

with the natural world. According<br />

to him, photography is an art of<br />

flawless observation.<br />

1. Cappadocia is a result of erosion of volcanic layers which are<br />

spread through the area with the eruption of mountains about 60<br />

million years ago. It is inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage<br />

list. It’s an open air museum at Nevşehir Province in Turkey. (Left)<br />

2. Hierapolis is an ancient city and it is located above the incredible<br />

Pamukkale Travertines. Hierapolis and Pamukkale both earned a<br />

UNESCO World Heritage Site title. (Below)<br />

3. Konya Women’s Bazaar, is a historic bazaar which is host<br />

to ladies who sell their food or vegetables from their very own<br />

garden. (Right)<br />

Canon EOS 60D 21mm F/3.5 1/30s ISO400<br />

Canon EOS 60D 11mm F/14 1/100s ISO100


Canon EOS 60D 21mm F/3.5 1/30s ISO400


@funfoodandfrolic<br />

Tiffin Box Series<br />

Canon EOS 550D 50mm F/4.5 1/30s ISO200<br />

HINA GUJRAL<br />

Tiffin Box Series<br />

Canon EOS 550D 50mm F/3.2 1/30s ISO100<br />

PHOTOGRAPHER @Instagram<br />

handle<br />

Tiffin Box Series<br />

Canon EOS 550D 50mm F/3.2 1/25s ISO100<br />

Tiffin Box Series<br />

Canon EOS 550D 50mm F/3.2 1/30s ISO100


Open House Curry<br />

Canon EOS 550D 50mm F/4.5 1/30s ISO100<br />

Candid Lollipops<br />

Canon EOS 550D 50mm F/4 1/60s ISO100<br />

Kesari Thaali<br />

Canon EOS 550D 50mm F/5 1/40s ISO100<br />

The Traditional Ways<br />

Canon EOS 550D 50mm F/5 1/40s ISO100


Aisha - Cottoncandy<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark III 70mm F/3.2 1/60s ISO800<br />

Mia - Spaghetti<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark III 57mm F/3.5 1/100s ISO800<br />

Pasta Glossary<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark II 70mm F/13 1/4s ISO200


Lucy Schaeffer<br />

was a painter<br />

and printmaker<br />

before discovering<br />

she preferred<br />

photography for<br />

telling stories. Five<br />

years as a photo<br />

editor at Food & Wine<br />

magazine trained her eye<br />

to see the yummiest aspects<br />

of every dish and bring that out in every food<br />

shot. Lucy is just as comfortable shooting kids<br />

in muddy puddles as she is lighting a highly<br />

technical drink shot in the studio. She sees both<br />

as part of the same whole— showing life well<br />

lived. Her photography captures real moments<br />

full of boldness, whimsy and color. She lives with<br />

her husband and two daughters in Brooklyn, NY.<br />

Yuka - Shellfish<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark III 59mm F/2.8 1/60s ISO1250


Thom Kerr and the Talk of the Town<br />

Jordan<br />

NIKON D3 66mm F/4.5 1/100s ISO100<br />

Thom Kerr is known for his bold<br />

experimentation and vivid use of<br />

color. His work acts as a bridge<br />

between the realms of fashion and fine art.<br />

DIMPLE from <strong>Chiiz</strong> gets chatty with him<br />

around his career and fashion. Here is an<br />

excerpt.<br />

Being an artist, where do you draw most of<br />

your inspiration from?<br />

Probably music and cinema. I’m a storyteller<br />

at heart. Sometimes, there is a message I want<br />

to communicate politically or spiritually so<br />

I’ll think of a visual way to tell the story or<br />

make a point. I also identify ideas in other<br />

artist’s work that I think, can be explored or<br />

reinvented. I’m a big fan of curating different<br />

elements together - it’s often how you land<br />

with something brand new. You develop<br />

your own formulas for pictures then break<br />

away from them again.<br />

When did you first decide to turn to<br />

photography? Were you facing difficulties in<br />

directing the photographers?<br />

I did a fine arts degree specializing in<br />

writing and directing. As I was finishing my<br />

final year I made a lot of friends who were<br />

designers, models and creatives. I started an<br />

artist collective called Rufio Creative where<br />

we would all collaborate together. I would<br />

conceptualise the shoots and build the sets<br />

but other photographers would capture<br />

the ideas. I started toying with the idea of<br />

taking the photos myself as I wanted to take<br />

the images further, but was hesitant to take<br />

the leap of faith. However, after a psychic<br />

told me I was meant to be a photographer<br />

it validated those desires and I bought a<br />

camera that week. I think I already had a<br />

point of view before I was taking pictures,<br />

so my photos stood out. It was lots of hard<br />

work, self belief and asking strangers how<br />

things worked to get to where I am now.<br />

To what level, do you retouch your photos?<br />

Anything that you would like to do in<br />

particular with your photos?<br />

I retouch most of my personal and editorial<br />

work. Some of my advertising is with<br />

retouching teams but my clients usually<br />

want my involvement in the direction of the<br />

final look. In terms of what I do, it’s a lot of<br />

trial and error - I like finding unusual ways<br />

to accomplish things in Post-production.<br />

What is the greatest lesson you’ve learnt<br />

so far, in regard to reaching success and<br />

maintain it?<br />

I think you have to remind yourself to be<br />

grateful for what you have and constantly<br />

remember that you are not defined by your<br />

work - even though the world wants to<br />

define you that way. I’ve had lots of fabulous<br />

and horrendous moments - so I feel pretty<br />

level headed about my approach to all my<br />

opportunities these days. I’m appreciative to<br />

have made it this far and I’m curious to see<br />

how far I will go. I would say that longevity<br />

in my career is about constant evolution and<br />

following what interests you and takes you<br />

out of your comfort zone. Working with<br />

people who have different ideas will always<br />

push you to new heights with your art. That<br />

translates into people staying interested in<br />

you.<br />

You’ve worked with wide range of models,<br />

any tips that you have for models who want<br />

to expand their portfolio?<br />

Study up on all the successful photographers,<br />

not just the models. Develop a stronger<br />

understanding of what you think will work<br />

for your look and seek out the creatives<br />

that can make that happen. Figure out your<br />

strengths and use them to your advantage<br />

- that’s something I consistently see in the<br />

most successful models.<br />

What advice would you have for aspiring<br />

fashion photographers?<br />

It’s a constant dance between art and<br />

commerce. Doing things for strategic<br />

reasons verses doing things for artistic<br />

purposes. Both voices are important - I think<br />

you have to have a balance and keep faith in<br />

what you’re about and what you represent.<br />

In the beginning, you need to think equally<br />

as much about what someone needs from<br />

you rather than it being all about what you<br />

want. Being a professional photographer is<br />

a service industry - so if you deliver what<br />

people want, more opportunities will be<br />

presented to you.<br />

Dimple Chaudhary<br />

dimple@chiiz.com<br />

A journalism graduate from Delhi<br />

University, Dimple loves to act in plays<br />

and is a part of Nirantar Theatre group.<br />

She believes that ambition is the first<br />

step to success, action is secondary.<br />

24 Vol 7


Runway Pit Stop<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark II 50mm F/5.6 1/80s ISO100


Lighting Up<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark II 50mm F/6.3 1/100s ISO100<br />

Avatar Redefined<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark II 50mm F/8 1/100s ISO100<br />

Jenny<br />

Canon EOS 400D 37mm F/7.1 1/100s ISO100


Rohit Arora<br />

Mumbai, India<br />

Bridal Stories<br />

Canon 5D Mark II 91mm F/4 1/250s ISO400<br />

Rohit Arora<br />

Mumbai, India<br />

Hopes and Dreams<br />

Canon 5D Mark II 104mm F/4 1/250s ISO200


Rohit Arora<br />

Mumbai, India<br />

Banarasiya<br />

Canon 5D Mark II 149mm F/4 1/250s ISO200<br />

Rohit Arora<br />

Mumbai, India<br />

Roadside Glamour<br />

Canon 5D Mark II 50mm F/4 1/160s ISO100


Gear Review<br />

The Nikon D850 is Nikon’s latest high-resolution full-frame<br />

DSLR, boasting a 46MP backside-illuminated CMOS sensor.<br />

But, in a fairly radical departure for the series, it is also one<br />

of the company’s fastest-shooting DSLRs. This combination of<br />

properties should significantly widen the camera’s appeal to high-end<br />

enthusiasts as well as a broad range of professional photographers.<br />

Key Specifications:<br />

• 45.7MP BSI CMOS Sensor 7<br />

• 7 fps continuous shooting with AE/AF (9 with battery grip and<br />

EN-EL18b battery)<br />

• 153-point AF system linked to 180,000-pixel metering system<br />

• UHD 4K video capture at up to 30p from full sensor width<br />

• 1080p video at up to 120p, recorded as roughly 1/4 or 1/5th<br />

speed slow-mo<br />

• 4:2:2 8-bit UHD uncompressed output while recording to card<br />

• Battery Life rated at 1840 shots<br />

• 3.2” tilting touchscreen with 2.36M-dot (1024×768 pixel) LCD<br />

• Illuminated Controls<br />

• 19.4MP DX crop (or 8.6MP at 30fps for up to 3 sec)<br />

• SnapBridge full-time Bluetooth LE connection system with Wi-<br />

Fi<br />

• Advanced time-lapse options (including in-camera 4K video<br />

creation)<br />

High resolution<br />

The D850 has gained a more usable electronic front curtain shutter<br />

option (EFCS), which can now be used quiet shutter modes, as well<br />

as live view and Mirror-Up mode. To get the full benefit, though,<br />

you need to turn on exposure delay (which has had two sub-second<br />

delay settings added). However, exposure delay persists across all<br />

shooting modes.<br />

The D850 has no anti-aliasing filter, which should allow for slightly<br />

finer detail capture but with added risk of moiré, if any of your lenses<br />

are sharp enough to out-resolve a 45.7MP full-frame sensor.<br />

High Speed<br />

In addition to the increased speed, the D850 also gains the full<br />

AF capabilities of the company’s flagship sports camera: the D5.<br />

This includes all the hardware: AF module, metering sensor and<br />

dedicated AF processor, as well as the full range of AF modes and<br />

configuration options, which should translate to comparable focus<br />

performance combined with high resolution.<br />

Impressively, the D850 can shoot at nine frames per second if<br />

you add the optional MB-D18 battery grip and buy an EN-EL18b<br />

battery, as used in the D5. As well as increasing the camera’s burst<br />

rate, this combination also ups the battery life to a staggering 5140<br />

shots per charge.<br />

Video capabilities<br />

In terms of video, the D850 becomes the first Nikon DSLR to capture<br />

4K video from the full width of its sensor. The camera can shoot at<br />

30, 25 or 24p, at a bitrate of around 144 Mbps. It can simultaneously<br />

output uncompressed 4:2:2 8-bit UHD to an external recorder<br />

while recording to the card. Our initial impression is that the video<br />

is pixel-binned, rather than being resolved then downsampled<br />

(oversampling), but we’ll be checking on this as part of the review<br />

process. This risks lowering the level of detail capture and increases<br />

the risk of moiré, though it’s a better solution than line-skipping.<br />

There also seemed to be a fair amount of rolling shutter, but again<br />

these are only first impressions from a camera running non-final<br />

firmware.<br />

As you’d expect from a camera at this level, the D850 also includes<br />

the Power Aperture feature that allows the camera to open and<br />

close the lens iris smoothly when in live view mode. There’s also an<br />

‘Attenuator’ mode for the camera’s audio capture, that rolls-off any<br />

loud noises to avoid unpleasant clipping sounds.<br />

Reviewed by Editorial Department of <strong>Chiiz</strong>.<br />

Gear Support: Nikon Experience Zone, Capital, Esskay Enterprises, Delhi.<br />

30 Vol 7


Journey Reminances<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark IV 60mm F/4 1/100s ISO250<br />

Journey Reminances<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark IV 47mm F/4 1/100s ISO320<br />

The Terrible<br />

Two’s<br />

Zina & Zoya<br />

Zina and Zoya Singh<br />

eeing beauty in imperfections<br />

“Sthus, terrible and channeling<br />

our twinness through arts and<br />

creativity with our love for fashion,<br />

we came up with Terrible Twos.<br />

The ability to take our interests<br />

which varied culturally and<br />

personally, coming together to<br />

create a platform which accepts<br />

all that’s terrible. Terrible for us<br />

isn’t something negative. It’s a<br />

connotation which can be made<br />

beautiful with the right suffix.”<br />

<strong>Chiiz</strong> interviews the sisters, Zoya and<br />

Zina, on their evergrowing popularity<br />

and the message that is being portrayed<br />

through their fashion statements and the style<br />

they express. SHEETAL got the chance to catch<br />

them for a quick chat. You can check out their<br />

instagram page @touchandbe.<br />

Hi, First of all, you both are very beautiful<br />

and the way you portray the said terribleness<br />

in your images is somewhat another form<br />

of expressionism. Explain your ‘terrible’ in<br />

Terrible Twos?<br />

We have always believed that terrible isn’t a bad<br />

word. Having being called terribly naughty,<br />

terribly fun and terribly nice at times, we think<br />

with the right kind of connotation, terrible<br />

can be any oxymoron, just like the two of us.<br />

We are the yin and yang together. I hope this<br />

explains it. Being twins we have always played<br />

pranks on everyone around us and had fun<br />

with this nature’s gift.<br />

Adding the fashion element in your<br />

expressionism, there is a very wide gap<br />

between where you are and what you want to<br />

portray. People might see it as just a lifestyle or<br />

fashion thing but it’s much more than that. Can<br />

you please elaborate on this?<br />

Initially it started as something fun and<br />

spontaneous. Ephemeral even. Developing<br />

keen interest and passion combined, we started<br />

living our work through each creative aspect.<br />

Be it photography, editing, styling, writing,<br />

direction and stories- it all was a challenge<br />

and was not expected to be understood by<br />

all. Only those who want quality and reality<br />

in surrealism would have! Slowly, people are<br />

opening up though and through various ways<br />

and mediums we have achieved that target<br />

of relating to people and interaction. We can<br />

proudly say we know our followers and know<br />

what they like!<br />

There is this great love that reflects in your eyes<br />

for each other. Are there times when you guys<br />

are annoying to each other?<br />

We do love each other not just naturally but<br />

for unexplainable reasons as the bond we have<br />

cannot be. Sometimes we fight like it’s the end<br />

of the world but minutes later we will be fine.<br />

Since we work together too, it’s sometimes<br />

difficult to manage personal and professional<br />

lives, though we won’t have it any other way!<br />

A fashion advice that you would like to give to<br />

the masses. Something that you believe in and<br />

think that this is where it can all be right?<br />

Please stick to yourself and your own style, no<br />

matter how minimal, simple, exaggerated or<br />

kitsch it is! Don’t follow trends, they aren’t for<br />

everyone and be comfortable and real!<br />

Sheetal Mann<br />

sheetal@chiiz.com<br />

A silent tigress working up her way<br />

against the societal norms. One hell of<br />

an interior designer for your beautiful<br />

homes and thoughts, she is quite an<br />

introvert and serenity drips from her<br />

face.<br />

Vol 7<br />

31


Bonding Over Food<br />

Canon EOS 550D 43mm F/5.6 1/160s ISO100<br />

Superdry Retro<br />

NIKON D810 56mm F/2.8 1/2500s ISO200<br />

3 Women<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark III 47mm F/4 1/500s ISO100<br />

Swinging Along Life<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark III 50mm F/4 1/250s ISO200<br />

Reflecting Souls<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark III 50mm F/4 1/640s ISO400


The Differences<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark III 47mm F/2.8 1/500s ISO100<br />

Playtime Bonding<br />

NIKON D800 24mm F/6.3 1/2000s ISO100<br />

Happy Hours<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark III 24mm F/7.1 1/1250s ISO100


In Talks with John Rawson<br />

Getting up<br />

close and<br />

personal<br />

and being<br />

as candid as<br />

somebody like<br />

him can be is<br />

surely not an easy task. Here is a short<br />

interview where KAMANA SINGH from<br />

<strong>Chiiz</strong> gets in talk with John Rawson.<br />

Being one already, what role do you think a<br />

hair stylist plays in getting the right picture<br />

that you look for? Do you sometimes find<br />

it a little difficult to choose even ​the ​right ​<br />

model ​for ​a ​shoot?<br />

It’s all about team work on shoots – we have,<br />

over the years, built fantastic relationships<br />

with hairdressers/stylists/make-up artists<br />

and models so when we receive a brief it’s<br />

easy for us to co-ordinate the right people<br />

for that specific brief. Every single element<br />

is equally important so if one thing is not in<br />

line the ‘everything’ would fail.<br />

With ​the ​rapid ​pace ​of ​advancement ​in<br />

technology, ​is ​it ​hard ​to ​keep ​up ​with ​the ​<br />

amount ​of energy ​and ​time ​you ​have ​to ​put ​<br />

into ​your ​work? ​Tell ​us some ​really ​significant ​<br />

change ​that ​you ​have experienced ​from ​the ​<br />

time ​you ​started ​working, something ​that ​<br />

you ​really ​miss ​about ​the ​90s?<br />

Technology is amazing, however, it doesn’t<br />

make good pictures! We were sold a dream<br />

when the digital revolution happened and it<br />

really just meant far more work than when<br />

we shot on film. In many ways, it makes<br />

36 Vol 7<br />

people lazy and reliant on retouch. I love the<br />

new camera’s etc. but they are in constant<br />

flux and very expensive! i.e. the current<br />

system we use cost somewhere around<br />

£40,000 and that is hard for many to recoup.<br />

I think the 90’s was a very liberating decade<br />

and lots of what occurred was groundbreaking<br />

and will be looked back on with<br />

great fondness but when you revisit a time,<br />

which seems to be happening more and<br />

more from an inspiration point of view, it’s<br />

never the same.<br />

When ​I ​see ​your ​photographs, ​I ​see ​a ​form ​<br />

of poetry ​flowing ​through ​all ​of ​them. ​Is ​it ​<br />

something ​that you ​want ​to ​acknowledge ​to? ​<br />

Which ​is ​your ​favourite one?<br />

I don’t have a specific favourite image –<br />

other than the most current one I’m working<br />

on at the time. We constantly try and move<br />

forward so don’t like looking back too much!<br />

Poetry? Well we do try always to make it<br />

beautiful – even if it’s extreme and radical.<br />

I want it to have a flow and move where<br />

possible.<br />

From ​a ​hairdresser ​to ​a ​world ​renowned<br />

photographer, ​such ​a ​transition ​is ​an ​<br />

outcome ​of ​hard work, ​and ​absolutely ​not ​<br />

just ​some ​smart ​luck. ​Some advices ​to ​the ​<br />

budding ​artists ​out ​there.<br />

Funnily enough, it happened by mistake!<br />

I never thought I’d be able to make it as a<br />

photographer but worked hard and took<br />

many risks and it paid off!! Being “safe” and<br />

comfortable is not a state that’s creative – so<br />

gamble and see where it takes you.<br />

How ​much ​time ​do ​you ​generally ​spend ​on<br />

retouching ​a ​photograph ​when ​you ​are ​not ​<br />

satisfied with ​the ​outcome? ​Or ​you ​go ​for ​a ​<br />

totally ​different alternative?<br />

Retouching is a large part of an image but<br />

the concept and lighting must be right or the<br />

retouch can’t fix it! I have an amazing team<br />

that retouch for me and we spend as much<br />

time as it needs!<br />

What, ​according ​to ​you, ​makes ​a ​perfect<br />

photograph?<br />

I doubt there is a ‘perfect’ one and if it was<br />

it probably wouldn’t be very beautiful –<br />

perfection rarely is! A great team/models<br />

etc. is probably the closest you’ll get to it!<br />

The Rawson Partnership is a photographic<br />

consultancy which specialises in the<br />

fashion and hair & beauty industries. They<br />

are a committed team who prides itself in<br />

developing and understanding your brief.<br />

They organise every stage of the shoot<br />

process from concept to booking models and<br />

castings through full post production and<br />

high end retouch and print. You can check<br />

out their website: therawsonpartnership.net.<br />

Kamana Singh<br />

kamana@chiiz.com<br />

Kamana Singh is a 2nd year Literature<br />

Student at Delhi University. She is a<br />

self-proclaimed wanderer. You will find<br />

her mostly shuffling books in the library<br />

or binge watching some netflix series.<br />

Mostly writes to calm herself and never<br />

to share it with the world.


Black Territory<br />

Phase One A/S P65+ 120mm F/6.3 1/150s ISO100<br />

Haus Salon Team Collection 2017<br />

Phase One A/S P65+ 125mm F/10 1/150s ISO100<br />

Wrapped Around<br />

Phase One A/S P65+ 140mm F/10 1/150s ISO100<br />

Killer Look<br />

Phase One A/S P65+ 80mm F/5.6 1/1250s ISO50


Golden Hour<br />

Phase One A/S P65+ 80mm F/10 1/125s ISO50<br />

The Whole Collection<br />

Phase One A/S P65+ 80mm F/10 1/125s ISO100<br />

Bare Lies XRay<br />

Phase One A/S P65+ 60mm F/10 1/150s ISO100<br />

Waiting<br />

Canon EOS 1Dx 67mm F/5.6 1/100s ISO1000


Winning Collection NAHA2017<br />

Phase One A/S P65+ 80mm F/10 1/125s ISO50


Tarundeep Singh Makkar<br />

Ludhiana , India<br />

Royal Stance<br />

Canon EOS 600D 50mm F/7.1 1/125s ISO100<br />

Tarundeep Singh Makkar<br />

Ludhiana , India<br />

Can’t Keep Away<br />

Canon EOS 600D 50mm F/7.1 1/250s ISO100<br />

Tarundeep Singh Makkar<br />

Ludhiana , India<br />

Peace and <strong>Fashion</strong><br />

Canon EOS 600D 50mm F/4 1/250s ISO50<br />

Tarundeep Singh Makkar<br />

Ludhiana , India<br />

Just a Moment<br />

Canon EOS 600D 50mm F/6.3 1/125s ISO100


Tarun Khiwal<br />

Mumbai, India


Designer - Sabyasaachi<br />

Models - Anuj Choudhry, Adhiraj Chakrabarti, Arshia Ahuja, Apurav<br />

Nautiyal, Diva Dhawan, Divya Menon, Kanika, Kushal, Namit Khanna,<br />

Natasha Ramchandran and Rouhallah Quazim , Archana Akil Kumar<br />

Hair & makeup - Mickey Contractor<br />

NIKON D810 85mm F/16 1/160s ISO400


Phase One P 25 ISO100<br />

Phase One P 25 ISO100<br />

Tarun Khiwal<br />

Tarun Khiwal is among India’s<br />

leading fashion photographers<br />

and a true maverick. Recognized<br />

and featured internationally, his<br />

experimental style and finesse<br />

transformed fashion photography<br />

in India, and gave it a global edge<br />

while also ushering in a new era of<br />

exploration. His journey with the<br />

art form began 25 years ago, and<br />

without any formal training, his<br />

undying passion and commitment<br />

have led him to become one of the<br />

world’s leading photographers.<br />

Phase One P 25 ISO100<br />

Designed by: Manish Arora<br />

Model Credits:<br />

1. Bhavna Sharma & Carol Maria Gracias 2. Michelle Innes 3. Michelle Innes<br />

Makeup: Ambika Pillai<br />

The strongest, most defining aspect of Tarun’s aesthetic is that he<br />

never conformed to the conventional ‘rules’, but made his own. His<br />

visual style is unmatched because it stems from his Indian roots,<br />

and yet transcends them to speak a contemporary language. Instead<br />

of following western trends and masters, he crafted his own rare<br />

style by drawing inspiration from his personal treasure of memories<br />

and experiences in his own country India; small anecdotes of his<br />

childhood years, or places he’d visited, or celebrations he’d seen,<br />

the culture and traditions that influenced him while growing up.<br />

Each image by Tarun Khiwal carries this signature backdrop, this<br />

unmistakable sense of heritage and pride in one’s own culture. He<br />

combined this sensibility with the technical and artistic sophistication<br />

of modern photography to deliver images that are distinctly his own<br />

and so unique that they have won him appreciation and accolades<br />

the world over.<br />

44 Vol 7


Phase One P 25 ISO100<br />

Phase One P 25 ISO100<br />

Phase One P 25 ISO100<br />

Phase One P 25 ISO100<br />

Designed by: Manish Arora<br />

Model Credits:<br />

1. Bhavna Sharma, Michelle Innes and Carol Maria Gracias 2. Bhavna Sharma 3. Michelle Innes 4. Bhavna Sharma & Michelle Innes(Right page)<br />

Makeup: Ambika Pillai<br />

Vol 7<br />

45


Old is Gold<br />

The film industry of India,<br />

that is Bollywood, has always<br />

been somewhat of a magical<br />

mysterious land for those of us<br />

who stand by the sidelines and watch the<br />

most ordinary people being turned into<br />

stars that ooze glamour and showbiz.<br />

The Bollywood that we see now hadn’t<br />

always been tolerant, especially towards<br />

James Burke the actresses. Today, an actress doing a<br />

bold photo shoot is not something out of<br />

the blue. It is more of a regular occurrence and the internet flooding<br />

with sensual pictures of the actresses is a testimony to that.<br />

An intimate photo shoot with India’s first glamour<br />

queen - Begum Para - James Burke - 1951<br />

The rebellious actress was infamous for smoking and carrying<br />

a glass of whisky in public events. She would laugh at her female<br />

counterparts who despite enjoying alcohol would conceal their<br />

drinks with cola. Her sensuous intimate photo shoot was yet another<br />

blow to the hypocrite industry of Bollywood who would objectify<br />

women and at the same time vilify them for it.<br />

With all the actresses posing to be the next sex symbol, none<br />

compares to the stunning beauty of Begum Para- India’s first oomph<br />

girl. Even today, the black and white, sepia tinted photographs serve<br />

as an ode to the bold and beautiful Begum Para and her irrepressible<br />

spirit.<br />

Now rewind to the era of 40s and 50s where actresses clad and<br />

covered from head to toe in six yards of sheer elegance, presented<br />

a demure image- both on and off screen. It was then that James<br />

Burke, a legendary photographer of the prestigious LIFE magazine,<br />

and Begum Para, the Bollywood actress, shocked everyone with her<br />

sensuous photo shoot which earned her the title of “Bollywood’s<br />

pinup girl”.<br />

The busty beauty dressed in a gorgeous plain white saree and a white<br />

blouse, was 24 when she posed in front of Burke’s lens in 1951. So<br />

sensuous were her photographs that she has been likened to actress<br />

Jane Russell and has been called the Indian version of “The Outlaw”.<br />

James Burke was one of the few photographers that got to capture<br />

what goes on behind the silver screen and also stunning profiles of<br />

actresses. Begum Para’s intimate photo shoot was one such story of<br />

the hypocrisy in Bollywood. In one of the photographs she is seen<br />

as lighting up a cigarette and smiling as if in open defiance of the<br />

existing norms of how the Bollywood actresses should behave.<br />

Priyashi Negi<br />

priyashi@chiiz.com<br />

Trekking to the top of the hills through tiny little paths and between<br />

pines is nothing short of paradise for Priyashi. Books and poetry are her<br />

refuge. She is a foodie at heart and seems to be blessed with a sweet<br />

tooth and a love for all things cheese (pun-intended).<br />

46 Vol 7


Happenstance Crossing<br />

As people cross the road entering Piccadilly Circus, an elaborate camera movement<br />

drags colour and texture across the scene. Fortuitously balancing static and stationary<br />

with photographic and painterly elements.<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark III 33mm F/20 1/50s ISO200<br />

Fine Art in the Streets<br />

my photographs are created on<br />

site and in-camera. It is crucial to<br />

“All<br />

me that they are not re-worked<br />

in any image software. Only adjustments<br />

to light, dark and cropping are made on<br />

computer afterwards. Eavch one is made<br />

using a technique that contradicts the<br />

proper functionality requirements for High<br />

Dynamic Range imagery.”<br />

Michael Lee is a British visual artist, living<br />

and working in London. <strong>Photography</strong><br />

was always a passion and mainly served to<br />

inform Michael’s painting. Michael taught as<br />

a full time art teacher before travelling Asia<br />

and training in oil painting. He returned to<br />

the UK, working as an art and photography<br />

teacher while studying a Masters Degree in<br />

Fine Art at Middlesex University. NOOPUR<br />

SHARMA from <strong>Chiiz</strong> gets in talks with Lee.<br />

Below is an exceprt.<br />

In what genre would you like to put your<br />

photography? If it is street, then what is your<br />

concept of street photography?<br />

I would like my work to be considered<br />

fine art and/or abstract photography. In<br />

truth, it probably occupies a space between<br />

those genres. My street photography is<br />

about capturing the energy, vibrancy and<br />

essence of a place rather than the telling of<br />

a particular story.<br />

Your photographs are like a set of paintings<br />

that seem to be in motion within themselves.<br />

Is it something that you are trying to make<br />

a point with?<br />

Drawing upon and referencing painting<br />

is central to my practice. Exploring the<br />

painterly qualities of my photographic<br />

technique has always been a driving force<br />

for me. It is the fact that the photographs<br />

are generated through real events, my<br />

performance and the camera, as opposed to<br />

on a blank canvas that I find so exciting.<br />

What is the technique you use? How do you<br />

process them on site?<br />

I shoot in HDR mode where the camera<br />

automatically combines three consecutive<br />

exposures. Typically for HDR, one ought<br />

to keep the camera as still as possible to<br />

avoid peculiarities, however, I will look<br />

to perverse this by introducing elaborate<br />

camera movements and shooting moving<br />

subjects.<br />

Something that inspired you to pick up that<br />

Michael Lee<br />

brush and that camera?<br />

I have an innate desire to create. I find<br />

immense satisfaction and sense of<br />

accomplishment making something I can<br />

be proud of. Originally, I had only seen<br />

photography as a means to inform my<br />

painting, however these days it is the other<br />

way round.<br />

When a person starts with photography, it<br />

is generally the street photography. What<br />

should he look for in his pictures and why?<br />

Typically, a narrative. I am most interested<br />

in seeing a personalised aesthetic to illustrate<br />

the narrative.<br />

Since developing a unique technique<br />

for creating abstracted photographs,<br />

he now only paints with his lens, though<br />

painting greatly influences and inspires his<br />

photography. Michael has exhibited widely<br />

across London, the UK and Europe. He is<br />

represented by galleries in the UK and Italy.<br />

Noopur Sharma<br />

noopur@chiiz.com<br />

Noopur Sharma, is a content writer whose articles<br />

have appeared in Asian School of Media Studies<br />

newspaper and others. She has worked as a Public<br />

Relation Executive for Bang On Target PR and Media<br />

solutions, and is a blogger on social media as well.<br />

Vol 7<br />

49


West End Ghosts XXVI:<br />

Captured on London’s Oxford Street towards the end of the day, unusual outlines are<br />

generated from the considered abuse of the HDR function. A passer-by becomes<br />

ghosted into the composition as the late sunshine lights their profile.<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark III 28mm F/14 1/40s ISO250


Prevailing Dusk I<br />

Captured near London’s Liverpool Street Station one pleasant evening, a bus<br />

passes by reflecting elements from the street. The camera leaves just remnants<br />

of the reflections and the bus, allowing space for the lights and colours of the city<br />

to permeate towards the front of the picture plane.<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark III 28mm F/8 1/10s ISO2500<br />

Old Delhi II:<br />

Approaching an opening to an incredibly busy road in Old Delhi brimming with<br />

countless people, bicycles, tuk tuks and animals, all jostling about. From nowhere,<br />

a luminous motorbike speeds headlong into the fray. Unbelievably, the motorcyclist<br />

weaved his way through the melee without slowing down and disappeared from<br />

sight without disaster.<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark III 50mm F/22 1/20s ISO5000


Vinay Javkar<br />

Mumbai, India<br />

Lost in the scape<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark III 50mm F/20 1/250s ISO100<br />

Vinay Javkar<br />

Mumbai, India<br />

Urban <strong>Fashion</strong><br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark III 50mm F/7.1 1/250s ISO500


Vinay Javkar<br />

Mumbai, India<br />

Werewolf Dreams<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark III 50mm F/20 1/160s ISO400


Tips and Tricks<br />

Your Guide to <strong>Fashion</strong> <strong>Photography</strong><br />

1. Preparation<br />

In my opinion, this is the most important part of the work. And<br />

the most important advice that I can give to you is never prone to<br />

prepare for shooting. It’s better to do more, and do not waste extra<br />

nerves on the shooting. Form your team - make-up artist, hair stylist,<br />

stylist for clothes. Prepare references and make a moodboard. So it<br />

will be easier to visualize the idea. And remember - every detail is<br />

important. So make a list of everything you need to forget nothing.<br />

I, as a photographer, always make myself a check-list - What camera<br />

should I take, what kind of lenses, flashes and ancillary things I need.<br />

The same list should be made by other team members.<br />

2. Locations<br />

In advance, always check the locations - better in a day or at least<br />

a couple of hours, so in case of unforeseen circumstances you have<br />

time to find a backup option.<br />

3. Experiment<br />

Sometimes, being already on the court, during the shooting, you<br />

realize that what you are shooting is not quite what you need. Do<br />

not be afraid to deviate a bit from the concept and experiment -<br />

remember that the final picture in your camera should suit you<br />

4. Be ready to take a picture any second<br />

The most masterpieces are sudden. Your finger on the shutter button<br />

should always be ready to take a picture. At that moment, nothing<br />

exists except for you, the camera and the model. Concentrate.<br />

5. Light<br />

Light Light, light, light and once again light. Light is our everything.<br />

From the right light, your frame will be steep or floppy. Remember<br />

this. The photography means- “I write with light” and you must be<br />

able to correctly write with this light.<br />

6. Model<br />

Do not trust the photo in the instagram! Often, models in life look<br />

very different, and when choosing a model, make sure to do a model<br />

test before shooting. To see how it works in the frame and whether it<br />

fits the concept of your shooting.<br />

NIKON D700 105mm F/14 1/125s ISO200<br />

7. Atmosphere<br />

Friendly, comfortable atmosphere is the key to successful shooting.<br />

Take care of the good mood for the whole team. Music, wine, jokes -<br />

everyone has their own individual recipe for success.<br />

8. Postproduction<br />

Correctly processed image - can “save” any frame, even if it was not<br />

very well shot. But do not overdo it with processing, in everything<br />

there must be a measure!<br />

9. Inspiration<br />

Read more magazines, see as much as possible fashion filming of<br />

famous photographers. Study them, arrange them, and remember:<br />

“Steal like an artist”<br />

10. Update your portfolio and social networks all the time.<br />

Activity in the network is very important! Do not forget to share<br />

backstages and the results of work with your subscribers.<br />

Tina Sokolovskaya<br />

Starting with night clubs and ending<br />

up with Playboy Ukraine’s magazine,<br />

this isn’t just luck, but sheer hard<br />

work and Tina Sokolovskaya surely<br />

has her way with it. This Ukraine<br />

based photographer now works<br />

with celebrities, famous artists,<br />

and singers all over the globe. A<br />

pro at fashion photography, Tina<br />

shares the ins and outs of <strong>Fashion</strong><br />

<strong>Photography</strong> with <strong>Chiiz</strong>.<br />

56 Vol 7


NIKON D700 50mm F/3.5 1/200s ISO200<br />

NIKON D700 105mm F/3.5 1/640s ISO280<br />

NIKON D700 50mm F/5.6 1/1250s ISO200


Category: Fine PortraIt Editing<br />

Rating: 4.6/5<br />

Platform: iOS<br />

Cost: Free (offers in-app purchases)<br />

Version: 2.6.1<br />

Here are the thoughts that Marcus shares with us regarding the<br />

Darkr App.<br />

‘I have used analog cameras for over twenty years. I have even built a<br />

couple of large-format cameras in Teak-wood myself. I have always<br />

loved the true feeling when standing and looking at a huge negative.<br />

For many years, I have had this project to photograph young<br />

children with my large-format cameras. I also noticed that by using<br />

a large-format cameras that really slows down the session, the better<br />

images are made. For quite some time, I wanted to let other people<br />

be able to try how it’s to shoot using large-format cameras and to<br />

develop in a darkroom. So, I created an app called Darkr. It took<br />

almost a full year with several hours every night building this app.<br />

Darkr has been featured by Apple since day one and all over the<br />

world. Darkr is divided into two sections. Firstly the camera-section.<br />

Here you can choose to use a normal small camera, medium-format<br />

camera or a large-format camera.<br />

App of the Month<br />

Darkr - Analog Retro Film<br />

The darkroom is as close as a real darkroom can be. In a real<br />

darkroom, one works with different strips. These strips are made<br />

to find out how long the enlarger should put light on the paper. Just<br />

as a real darkroom, you can make parts of the image brighter or<br />

darker – which is called dodge and burn.<br />

You have probably seen where one holds a hand, blocking the light<br />

that hits the paper, making that area brighter. Instead of holding<br />

your hands over the iPhone, you draw the mask the hand would<br />

have created. The mask combined with the strip, makes the changes<br />

to the image.<br />

The goal is to understand that even the smallest change in local<br />

brightness or darkness will improve the image very much. One can<br />

add how many dodge or burn-layers as one wants. Darkr is only<br />

for black and white-photos, however one can tone the images using<br />

Sepia, Selenium or Cyanotype-tones.<br />

The cameras are only manual, so you have to set the shutter-speed<br />

as well as the ISO (in an iPhone one cannot change the aperture, but<br />

you can change the ISO instead). One also has to focus manually,<br />

but just to be sure you really nail the focus, you will see a loupe that<br />

magnifies the image three times. Naturally as one does when focus<br />

in a medium and large-format camera.<br />

You can also add different film-emulsions like various Ilford-film<br />

and Kodak-film. One can also add red, yellow and green-filter to<br />

improve the contrast in the image.<br />

The viewfinder is as real as it can be, that is, the large-format<br />

camera’s viewfinder is upside-down and mirrored and the mediumformat<br />

camera is mirrored. After you have snapped an image you<br />

can develop it in a darkroom. Naturally you can develop the images<br />

you have in your camera-roll.<br />

To make the darkroom a bit easier, you will be presented with a<br />

couple of tutorials. Both on how the darkroom actually works<br />

and the comparison between Darkr and a real darkroom. By<br />

understanding how a real darkroom works, it will make Darkr’s<br />

workflow more understandable. There are also a couple of tutorials<br />

of how I’m thinking when developing images. The app is made<br />

exclusively for iPhone and iPad and are updated on a regular base.<br />

For this issue, rather than reviewing an app,<br />

we present you the idea behind the app and<br />

its developer, who being just a regular guy at<br />

work, created this amazing application. Marcus<br />

Carlsson has been running his app-business for<br />

two years now and he’s totally alone in it. ‘I just<br />

love the whole piece’, says Marcus. Right now, the<br />

business is his side-job, but he aims to quit his<br />

day-time job and go full-time with app making.<br />

Marcus Carlsson<br />

58 Vol 7


DURGA<br />

Gender Bias and Discrimination Against Widows in India<br />

Durga Series-1<br />

Canon EOS 1000D 62mm F/20 1/250s ISO1600<br />

|| Ya Devi sarva bhuteshu, Shakti rupena sansthita ||<br />

The Omnipresent Goddess is the embodiment of Power.<br />

Sharmishtha Dutta<br />

Photographer<br />

From times immemorial, Indians<br />

have celebrated Goddess Durga as the<br />

embodiment of Stree Shakti (woman<br />

power). According to Hindu Mythology,<br />

when the celestial gods or devas could<br />

not control the menace of the demons or<br />

asuras, they convened with the powerful<br />

trinity of gods, Brahma, Vishnu & Mahesh.<br />

Thus, did Durga the invincible, come into<br />

being. With eyes that drained the strength<br />

of the demons, her ten hands brandishing<br />

ten different weapons, she slaughtered the<br />

infamous Mahishasur demon and restored<br />

balance to the world. This is how she’s<br />

celebrated even today, in India and all over<br />

the world.<br />

But a woman, born of man! That is certainly a man’s<br />

perspective! Indians, the world over, have been celebrating<br />

Goddess Durga as the embodiment of ‘Stree Shakti’. It<br />

becomes crucial to see how a woman in the present world,<br />

finds her place in an increasingly patriarchal society of<br />

India. It is a place where her voice is deliberately muffled<br />

and she has to fight for an equal status - social, economic<br />

& even sexual– which the man so takes for granted.<br />

Perhaps, the biggest case of social injustice till day is<br />

one that is faced by widows. Their plight portrays a fine<br />

picture of neglect and social irresponsibility. Despite our<br />

motherland making exponential progress, the matriarch<br />

is target to stigma, superstitions and social dogma.<br />

Widowhood is a curse, still, in our country. She is forced<br />

to give up all worldly pleasures, wear only white and<br />

have her hair cut off. Little do we know of her abject<br />

conditions and a life of endless hardships; not to mention<br />

humiliation?<br />

The Government of India has taken steps to provide them<br />

a nominal pension. Several NGOs have set up shelters,<br />

providing them with a respectable life in their sunset<br />

years.<br />

But not much has changed over the years in terms of their<br />

social acceptability. It must be strange for a society, such<br />

as ours, that idolizes Ma Durga and yet turns a blind eye<br />

to a million destitute mothers and wives, treating them<br />

with so much indifference and hostility. It makes us all<br />

look a tad hypocritical, don’t you think? A society that<br />

propagates respect for women only in relation to her<br />

status with a man!<br />

It is time we realized that there resides a DURGA in every<br />

woman, whether she is the well-educated lady from the<br />

upper echelons of society, the quintessential middle class<br />

working-woman, the village simpleton or the old and<br />

abandoned widow in Vrindavan.<br />

60 Vol 7


Durga Series-2<br />

Canon EOS 1000D 24mm F/3.2 1/160s ISO160<br />

Durga Series-3<br />

Canon EOS 1000D 24mm F/6.3 1/5s ISO1600


Durga Series-4<br />

Canon EOS 1000D 18mm F/11 1/0.6s ISO800<br />

Durga Series-5<br />

Canon EOS 1000D 18mm F/5 1/5s ISO60<br />

Durga Series-6<br />

Canon EOS 1000D 18mm F/4 1/40s ISO200<br />

Durga Series-7<br />

Canon EOS 1000D 24mm F/3.2 1/160s ISO1600


Durga Series-8<br />

Canon EOS 1000D 44mm F/2.8 1/40s ISO400<br />

Durga Series-9<br />

Canon EOS 1000D 24mm F/3.2 1/40s ISO400


Bringing Bappa Home<br />

celebrating ganesh Chaturthi<br />

Sachin Khot<br />

Mumbai, India<br />

One of the Top 30 in <strong>Chiiz</strong> <strong>Photography</strong> Contest<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark III 24mm F/5 1/80s ISO3200<br />

The god of wisdom as they call him in the Hindu culture, Lord<br />

Ganesh helped Bal Gangadhar Tilak to bring people together<br />

in the pre-independence era not only to worship him but also<br />

discuss their strategies to take down the East India Company. After<br />

70 years of Independence, it is still celebrated with the same zeal and<br />

enthusiasm all over the country especially in Maharashtra. In case<br />

you didn’t’know Lord Ganesh is the Hindu god with the head of an<br />

elephant and body of a human. According to Hindu mythology, he<br />

is the son of Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati. The festival is of twelve<br />

days and huge pandals, with varied themes, are erected all over the<br />

country to welcome Lord Ganesha. With the various global issues in<br />

the picture, some pandals are using this festival to spread awareness<br />

about problems like pollution, women safety, deforestation etc by<br />

basing their themes on them. Many religious people also like to<br />

bring the idol home and offer their prayers for twelve days. The last<br />

day the entire Hindu population bids goodbye to their lord and the<br />

Idols are immersed in water bodies. But nothing is perfect and this<br />

festival also has its cons. With the increasing number of idols being<br />

immersed the water bodies are getting toxic and polluted with the<br />

plaster of paris. Also, some pandals are taking it as a competition<br />

and using loudspeakers to attract crowd causing nuisance and noise<br />

pollution. But the new age artists are using various biodegradable<br />

materials like paper, organic soil etc to make idols and reduce the<br />

adverse effects. In all the chaos this festival brings the entire country<br />

together, even if for twelve days, which is much needed with the<br />

communal tensions going on.<br />

64 Vol 7


Rajiv Malu<br />

Mumbai, India<br />

The WonderWomen<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark III 28mm F/4.5 1/400s ISO250<br />

Rajiv Malu<br />

Mumbai, India<br />

The Last Dip<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark III 24mm F/6.3 1/160s ISO50


Ammar Netarwala<br />

Mumbai, India


Procession of The Lord<br />

Canon EOS 760D 18mm F/5.6 1/250s ISO100


Being Beautiful-Keeping it Natural<br />

Lynn Theisen<br />

@lynntheisen.com<br />

Natural Covers<br />

SONY SLT-A99V 105mm F/7.1 1/160s ISO100<br />

With the promotion of natural<br />

beauty by Kim Kardashian and<br />

other celebrities, the idea of a “no<br />

makeup” makeup look, skincare has become<br />

an important factor in daily life. Good skin<br />

makes a perfect base and requires less makeup,<br />

just a bit of enhancement, appealing to people<br />

as everyday life continues to become busier and busier. Having<br />

a natural glow, evenly toned skin is now a standard many work<br />

towards through the use of various skin routines. In America, the<br />

average women’s skincare costs 8 dollars a day. This is also inspired<br />

by the K-beauty trend. Many Koreans find their skin as one of<br />

their most valuable assets. They practice rigorous ten step care skin<br />

routines on a daily basis, have specific clinics for skin care and are<br />

mainly inspired by K-drama stars and Kpop stars. As the fame of<br />

these idols from Korea spread all over the world so did their daily<br />

routines, their beautiful skin pulling in many people all over the<br />

world. As skin care becomes more popular people are also becoming<br />

more aware of the consequences of the chemicals present in skincare<br />

products, with the help of the internet. Many exfoliators contain<br />

beads that are non degradable, causing a lot of harm to the earth.<br />

Some of the chemicals found in skincare products actually cause<br />

more harm to skin than cleanse them. Through this research and the<br />

growth of veganism comes an entirely new form of skincare. It is still<br />

attempting to achieve the same goals but naturally. Many companies<br />

are beginning to make skincare products from all natural materials,<br />

such as clay, avocado, tea and many other materials. People are<br />

trying to push away animal cruelty, the use of animal products<br />

and return to their roots. Everyone is working backwards, back to<br />

when everything humans used came straight from the Earth. Many<br />

natural oils achieve the same effect as chemicals and are able to cater<br />

to all types of skin. The diversity of natural products, their ability to<br />

help all skin types and their ability to achieve skin standards without<br />

guilt make it very appealing to consumers.<br />

Karishma Rana<br />

karishma@chiiz.com<br />

Karishma Rana is a 15 year old high school student with too many<br />

passions and too little time to decide what to settle on. She enjoys<br />

capturing moments around the world and has way too many photos of<br />

her dog. She is attempting to dip her toes into the world of photography<br />

and writing.<br />

68 Vol 7


Beyond The Leaves<br />

SONY SLT-A99V 105mm F/7.1 1/160s ISO100<br />

Natural Beauty<br />

SONY SLT-A99V 105mm F/7.1 1/160s ISO100<br />

Natural Series-1<br />

SONY SLT-A99V 105mm F/7.1 1/160s ISO100<br />

Natural Series-2<br />

SONY SLT-A99V 105mm F/7.1 1/160s ISO100


The Backstage Brilliance<br />

Ishaan Nair<br />

Ishaan Nair, filmmaker and photographer, has been working since his<br />

education in direction and cinematography from New York. In his search<br />

for himself, he discovered an innate talent for photography. Without any<br />

formal training he has shot covers and editorials for Harper’s Bazaar,<br />

L’Officiel, Marie Claire. His skills have led him to photograph some of the<br />

best-known faces of the thriving Indian film industry. With a stronghold<br />

in fashion, he has shot advertising campaigns, films and shows for the<br />

most celebrated designers.<br />

‘Kaash’, a film written and directed by him marks his directorial debut. After having it’s world<br />

premier at Tokyo International film festival, it is now slated to release this year. More recently<br />

he has directed commercials for Dove, Puma, Lakme, Taj Palaces, Apple Music, Jaipur<br />

Jewels and more. Website: ishaannair.net<br />

Bright lights, ravishing dresses, enchanting smiles of beautiful models and<br />

hardworking stylists. <strong>Fashion</strong> show, a place where the level of talent is quite<br />

high and is a place where beauty is showcased with pride. <strong>Fashion</strong> designers<br />

participate and their work is enhanced by charming models. But have you ever seen<br />

the backstage of a fashion show? Well, one will think that models just stand in line<br />

and wait till their turn comes to perform, but is that so?<br />

There is an army of people working in full potential to showcase their talent to the<br />

fans and guests. A backstage of a fashion show is a place where final decisions are<br />

taken models are munching and stylists are making changes. The fun part is, stylists<br />

are never satisfied with their setup, and they make last-minute adjustments and work<br />

under a lot of pressure to make the show a success. It is an organised madness where<br />

makeup artists are running behind the models and they even get their dresses ready<br />

seconds before their ramp-walk.<br />

The stylists face a lot of issues, sometimes the models get late due to traffic or because<br />

of their last show somewhere. They come running with makeup and it becomes<br />

challenging for the makeup artists to work at the last minute. But when all these<br />

challenges are overcome, the fashion show becomes successful. Well, fashion show<br />

is one thing and fashion week is something far more hectic with so many things to<br />

be taken care of.<br />

All the models are getting ready at the last minute makes it difficult deciding who<br />

will be walking first. There are times when the models go to other shows making<br />

the designers call their backups. The models get limited time for their walk and the<br />

time spent returning, changing and walking again. Ramp walk is also one thing<br />

that enhances the designer’s outfits. Models, managers, stylists, makeup artists and<br />

fashion elites make a fashion show successful but most of the hefty work is done<br />

backstage.<br />

Backstage is one place where there is no time to relax or even take a break. It is a place<br />

where fun can’t be missed. There are a lot of photographers too who get the best shots<br />

right before the models walk. The look on their faces some scared, some thrilled and<br />

some of them are just in a hurry to finish the work. The best part is that you will also<br />

find fans, a lot of them just to have a glimpse of their favourite artists. The fans also<br />

play a vital role in the fashion business because they are the ones who take their work<br />

to another level by buying the outfits the designers showcase in the fashion shows all<br />

around the world.<br />

Ankit Tyagi<br />

Facelift Stage<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark II 50mm F/7.1 1/160s ISO160<br />

ankit@chiiz.com<br />

Ankit, a journalism student, with intense love towards photography.<br />

He writes for a digital marketing company and believes in the power<br />

of words. The dream is to explore and find different perceptions in<br />

life. He likes watching classic movies and follows Alfred Hitchcock.<br />

Vol 7<br />

71


Eyes Don’t Lie<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark III 32mm F/6.3 1s ISO250<br />

Brilliance Behind The Stage<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark III 50mm F/3.5 1/6s ISO100<br />

Heels Reels<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark III 28mm F/9 1/60s ISO320<br />

Mexican Touche<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark II 28mm F/5.6 1/50s ISO6400


Bright Lenses<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark II 24mm F/5 1/60s ISO125<br />

Highway of Hell<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark III 24mm F/5.6 1/30s ISO500<br />

It’s Me Right Here<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark III 32mm F/6.3 1s ISO250<br />

Graced All Over<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark II 24mm F/4 1/4s ISO1000<br />

Lookout Indifferent<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark II 85mm F/1.8 1/60s ISO500


High Art (1998)<br />

Movie Review<br />

Duration: 1hr 41mins<br />

IMDB Rating: 6.7/10<br />

Released: 1998<br />

Written and Directed: Lisa Cholodenko<br />

Making her debut through HIGH ART, Lisa Cholodenko,<br />

more or less, gives the audience what the trailer promises.<br />

The trailer commits Ambition, Seduction, Sacrifice and<br />

other career moves which the movie fulfils to a great extent. Lisa’s<br />

career hasn’t been much productive as she directed just four films<br />

in all, though, her debut movie won 7 awards and made it to 18<br />

nominations. Let’s have a look at its storyline and review the cast,<br />

crew and the message of the movie.<br />

Story: High Art is about an assistant editor Syd who is an ambitious<br />

woman. The movie is about Syd’s discovery of her sexuality: from<br />

living with her boyfriend to her falling in love with a lesbian<br />

photographer Lucy Berliner. Lucy Berliner stopped working 10<br />

years ago and lives with her German girlfriend Greta. Syd revives<br />

Lucy from her hibernating period and persuades her to work for<br />

FRAME, the company Syd works for. Lucy agrees to it. It is while<br />

working on the cover for FRAME do these two women discover<br />

their love for each other. High Art is not just about love, seduction<br />

and ambition, but also about drugs, addiction and lot more.<br />

Review: Featuring Radha Mitchell as Syd and Ally Sheddy as<br />

Lucy Berliner, High Art is a romantic drama portraying a lesbian’s<br />

sexuality, relationships, ambition, addiction and what not. Syd is a<br />

career driven enthusiastic woman who is trying to find appreciation<br />

in her job. She meets Lucy Berliner who is a retired photographer<br />

living upstairs. Syd seems to be bored of her life and her relationships<br />

and Lucy is already lost.<br />

Lucy’s life is a mess as well. She lives with her lover Greta who is<br />

a washed out German actress. Both of them are heroin addicts,<br />

especially Greta who rarely is in her senses. At one hand, Greta’s<br />

words reveal her love for Lucy, but, on the other hand, they reveal<br />

her lost state of mind as well: “I’m Greta. I live for Lucy. I mean I live<br />

here with Lucy.” Greta become jealous of Lucy’s friendly relationship<br />

with Syd and loses control. She even puts her life at risk. Likewise,<br />

Syd’s boyfriend James is critical of Lucy and is afraid of Syd getting<br />

laid with her.<br />

Lucy, on the other hand, starts getting attracted to Syd. On their<br />

weekend trip, they get intimate with each other and Syd confesses<br />

her love for Lucy. Lucy seizes their intimacy and Syd’s beauty<br />

in a photograph and offers the same to Syd for the cover she was<br />

doing for FRAME. Syd is afraid at first, to make her personal life<br />

public, but, later on submits Lucy’s work to her boss Dominique.<br />

She receives a lot of admiration at work. Lucy, on the other hand<br />

is tensed with her situation with Greta and then her addiction. She<br />

decides to move out.<br />

Lucy’s mother walks away from her when she tells her about her<br />

situation. She says, “I have a drug problem and a love issue. Or<br />

maybe, I have a love problem and a drug issue. I don’t know.” In her<br />

weak moment, she surrenders her inner-self to her mother, but, her<br />

mother walks away. Apparently, it seems she had a drug problem<br />

and a love issue, after all.<br />

High Art highlights lesbian intimacy and seduction along with drug<br />

addiction, through the intimacy does not have much of nudity. Rated<br />

6.7 by IMDb, the movie was provided with “R” certificate and below<br />

seventeen kids were allowed only under a parental supervision. The<br />

movie did well on the silver screen but could have been a little more<br />

relatable to the audience had it been that Syd’s character was a little<br />

more refined.<br />

The characters, overall, were fine and the story brought out a new<br />

concept in its time. Greta’s character was well-portrayed as she<br />

represented drug-addiction in the best way possible. Her addiction<br />

makes her forget things and lose track of time. All in all, Lisa’s Greta<br />

is what the younger generation needs to learn from.<br />

Meenal Singh<br />

meenal@chiiz.com<br />

Meenal Singh is an undergraduate student of Miranda House, University of<br />

Delhi. She aspires to be a lecturer in English Literature. Meenal wishes to<br />

fight for the equality of women worldwide through the power of her words.<br />

74 Vol 7


David Espinosa<br />

Puebla, Mexico<br />

That Stare Is Killing<br />

NIKON D800 28mm F/3.3 1/125s ISO320


David Espinosa<br />

Puebla, Mexico<br />

Dreaming All Over<br />

NIKON D800 66mm F/2.8 1/125s ISO400<br />

David Espinosa<br />

Puebla, Mexico<br />

One Last Breath<br />

NIKON D800 48mm F/3.5 1/60s ISO320<br />

David Espinosa<br />

Puebla, Mexico<br />

To It And Beyond<br />

NIKON D800 48mm F/5.6 1/90s ISO640


Rosh x Suhail<br />

Canon EOS 60D 18mm F/18 1/50s ISO100<br />

Rosh x Suhail<br />

Canon EOS 60D 19mm F/18 1/50s ISO100<br />

Rosh x Suhail<br />

Canon EOS 60D 20mm F/18 1/50s ISO100<br />

Rosh x Suhail<br />

Canon EOS 60D 22mm F/18 1/50s ISO100


Rosh x Suhail<br />

Canon EOS 60D 22mm F/18 1/50s ISO100<br />

Rosh x Suhail<br />

Canon EOS 60D 22mm F/25 1/80s ISO100<br />

Roshini Kumar<br />

Roshini Kumar is a<br />

professional<br />

photographer<br />

who’s equally passionate about<br />

styling, digital art and creative direction. Art, <strong>Fashion</strong> and<br />

<strong>Photography</strong> have always been her platform to express<br />

her opinions, share experiences, experiment and address<br />

social issues, specifically those regarding body positivity<br />

which is why all her work has been left purely natural and<br />

no skin retouch has been done. Bold colors and ideas<br />

are what defines her and her work. ”I like to create new<br />

things on the regular, break boundaries and experiment<br />

with my art.”<br />

This was a creative collaboration between Roshini<br />

Kumar & Suhail Nayyar with model Sony Kaur from TFM<br />

360 India. Styled by Manka Malik and makeup by Vimal<br />

Gudka.Creative direction/Concept and post - Roshini<br />

Kumar.<br />

Rosh x Suhail<br />

Canon EOS 60D 22mm F/18 1/50s ISO100<br />

Vol 7<br />

79


Dwindling Lives<br />

NIKON D610 50mm F/8 1/250s ISO200<br />

Nicotine Soaked Lives : A Glance into<br />

The Tobacco Farming Industry in Turkey<br />

Meriç Aktar<br />

@mericaktar is a 32 years old hobbyist<br />

photographer who lives in Samandag,<br />

Hatay, Turkey. He began chasing light<br />

and capturing moments in 2012, since<br />

then, picking up the camera gave him<br />

an opportunity to capture a specific<br />

vision to share with others. Ultimately,<br />

a well captured image represents a<br />

moment in time that is expressed<br />

infinitely, and that’s enough of a reason<br />

for him to hang the camera around his<br />

shoulders every time he steps out of<br />

his home. As such, with a greater<br />

appreciation of the documenting<br />

people via photography, he has also<br />

developed a greater connection with<br />

people and life.<br />

For most of us the word “Tobacco” triggers<br />

one of these two probable reactions, a) A<br />

strong abhorrence (generally associated with<br />

the detrimental effect it has on our health).<br />

Or b) An even stronger urge, fuelled by years<br />

of addiction and/or decades worth of popular<br />

culture, to light the nearest cigarette. If it’s not<br />

one of these two things, it’s probably some<br />

botanical inquiry into the structure of the<br />

plant itself.<br />

Yes, Tobacco is all of those things and more.<br />

But for about a few hundred families living<br />

in Yayladagi, in the Hatay province of Turkey,<br />

tobacco isn’t death or grave addictions; it is<br />

life. Tobacco, for them, is neither some means<br />

to placate an oral fixation, nor is it the tiny font<br />

and the skull and crossbones that warn against<br />

its consumption. These tobacco farmers are<br />

in no way associated with the ongoing power<br />

struggles between “Big Tobacco” and the<br />

organizations against it, when quite ironically,<br />

they are intrinsic to the production of the very<br />

“thing” governments, business conglomerates,<br />

and activists tussle over. Tobacco for them is<br />

what puts bread on the table; what sends their<br />

kids to school ; and what puts them on the<br />

map.<br />

For the uninitiated, which is quite frankly<br />

most of us, here is a brief history of Turkish<br />

tobacco. Tobacco, of course, originated in the<br />

Americas. It was introduced to the Ottoman<br />

Empire (modern day Turkey, Republic of<br />

Macedonia, Bulgaria and Greece) by Spanish<br />

traders. The Ottoman Turks devised their own<br />

way of cultivating, harvesting, curing, and<br />

later, using the tobacco - and thus a distinctly<br />

“Turkish” variety came into being. Turkish<br />

tobacco dominated the global markets for<br />

most of the 20th century. It peaked during<br />

the 1960s when the Turkish kind was the<br />

most sought-after variety. Turkish tobacco<br />

is highly aromatic and being specifically<br />

“sun-cured” adds to the flavour. Ideally, this<br />

type of tobacco is used exclusively for pipes<br />

and cigarette manufacturing. In fact, most<br />

of the early brands of cigarettes only made<br />

80 Vol 7


use of Turkish tobacco. The location of the<br />

Hatay province on Turkey’s Mediterranean<br />

coast is particularly suited to favour the<br />

growth of this crop. Interestingly, Hatay<br />

was historically a part of Syria; but with<br />

European interference (in the form of<br />

French colonialism and the failing League of<br />

Nations), the native Turks in Hatay initiated<br />

reforms to unite with Turkey as part of an<br />

elaborate anti-Hitler alliance in 1939.<br />

On a more health-conscious note, the Turkish<br />

fare of tobacco is significantly milder than<br />

other varieties and consequently, contains<br />

less nicotine and fewer carcinogens. Most<br />

cigarettes now are primarily blended, but<br />

all of them incorporate the use of Turkish<br />

tobacco in some way or another.<br />

Harvesting tobacco in Hatay has been honed<br />

for generations. The process is laborious at<br />

best and downright torturous at worst. The<br />

men and women painstakingly pick, cut and<br />

cure the crop to meet the standards their<br />

produce is known for. Tobacco harvesting,<br />

like tea, requires a lot of patience and a lot<br />

of attention to detail; and maybe that is why<br />

much of it isn’t automated or mechanicallyassisted,<br />

because machinery cannot possibly<br />

emulate the skill and dexterity of these<br />

farmers, at least not at this point in history.<br />

Incidentally, in Hatay, there are two ways to<br />

go about harvesting their prized crop. The<br />

first, aptly named “priming”, as it entails<br />

selectively picking individual leaves as they<br />

come into their prime. About five to six<br />

pickings are harvested during five to tenday<br />

intervals. The leaves are then carefully<br />

strung on specifically designed sticks or<br />

handled loosely in bulks and is then taken<br />

for curing. This method of harvesting<br />

results in a higher total yield than the other<br />

method, and thus it is primarily used in the<br />

production of flue- cured tobacco, shadegrown<br />

cigar wrappers and several other<br />

cigar-specific tobacco types.<br />

The other method of harvesting, stalkcutting,<br />

is done by, well, cutting the stalk at<br />

the base. The tobacco farmers skilfully split<br />

the stalks in half to hasten the process of<br />

drying and to facilitate their placement on<br />

wooden stands for curing.<br />

For those who aren’t well versed in the jargon<br />

of the tobacco industry, which again is<br />

admittedly, most of us, curing is the process<br />

of drying, chlorophyll decomposition and<br />

other natural chemical changes in the<br />

composition of the tobacco that produces<br />

the desired flavour. Curing is integral to<br />

tobacco production and is often the sole<br />

determinant when it comes to identifying<br />

the quality of the produce.<br />

Turkish tobacco is famously air- cured. The<br />

farmers in Yayladagi cure their produce<br />

for four to eight weeks before they are<br />

shipped to manufacturers. This type of<br />

curing incorporates the use of sunlight as<br />

the primary catalyst in the early stages. This<br />

results in a lighter colour and an overall<br />

milder tobacco.<br />

Sometimes it is difficult to come to terms<br />

with the fact that most of the work that is<br />

done around the world, no matter how<br />

glorified (or vilified), ultimately amounts to<br />

nothing in the grand scheme of things. And<br />

this can be exemplified by all the week’s and<br />

month’s worth of hard work that goes into<br />

something that eventually goes up in flames.<br />

All that remains of the tobacco farmer’s hard<br />

work is the cigarette butt discarded without<br />

a second thought and the occasional<br />

cough or wheeze by a passer-by. There is,<br />

however, an important takeaway from this:<br />

the tobacco farmer labours on tirelessly<br />

expecting not to be credited or even thought<br />

of when consuming something he or she<br />

helped make. Everyone that is a part of<br />

civilization has a role to play in it, it may<br />

not be significant, or large or both, but it<br />

is a role nonetheless. And for the people of<br />

Yayladagi, it is sustaining the dregs of the<br />

20th century’s last great addiction.<br />

Shreeja Chatterjee<br />

shreeja@chiiz.com<br />

Shreeja Chatterjee is currently an<br />

undergraduate student of English<br />

Literature. She sees herself as an intrepid<br />

Ad mogul, akin to Don Draper, in the near<br />

future. Decidedly a pop culture addict, she<br />

has to watch two movies a day to get her<br />

bearings.<br />

Laying DeathBed<br />

NIKON D610 85mm F/8 1/400s ISO-160<br />

Honest Efforts<br />

NIKON D610 85mm F/2.2 1/2000s ISO-100<br />

Not Just Cabbages<br />

NIKON D610 85mm F/2.2 1/1000s ISO100


Burden Rides Along<br />

NIKON D610 85mm F/2.8 1/250s ISO250<br />

Rare Smiles<br />

NIKON D610 16mm F/5.6 1/125s ISO250<br />

Working Hours<br />

NIKON D610 16mm F/4 1/1000s ISO200<br />

Fun Takes Place<br />

NIKON D610 35mm F/4 1/320s ISO160


Working Women<br />

NIKON D610 85mm F/5.6 1/800s ISO200<br />

Abstract Hopes<br />

NIKON D610 23mm F/7.1 1/500s ISO100<br />

Puppy Love<br />

NIKON D610 23mm F/3.5 1/200s ISO320<br />

Blooming Smiles<br />

NIKON D610 85mm F/3.2 1/640s ISO320


Heavenly - Lauren Marsh<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark II F/7.1 1/200s ISO100


Pink Dress - Maude Gorman<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark II F/2.8 1/30s ISO100<br />

Implied Pink - Brittany Romano<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark II F/2.8 1/50s ISO100<br />

The Wedding Dress - Brittany Romano<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark II F/2.8 1/100s ISO100<br />

Underwater Angel - Morgan Berard<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark II F/2.8 1/100s ISO100<br />

Jorge E Gonzalez<br />

Jorge is an artist who specializes in capturing<br />

dramatic art portraits with the whole scene<br />

of beauty. His easy-going attitude and<br />

enthusiasm keeps the portrait experience fun<br />

and energized. His work blends colors and<br />

motion making a special recipe for classic<br />

portraiture with modern lifestyle imagery. His<br />

work has been published in various magazines<br />

and websites. He is an advocate of underwater<br />

marine conservation and ocean preservation.


Dream Ballerina - Maude Gorman<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark II F/2.8 1/50s ISO100<br />

Her Aura - Danielle Crawford<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark II F/4 1/25s ISO400<br />

Underwater Rainbow - Kate Graves<br />

Canon EOS 5D Mark II F/4 1/40s ISO400


Imagery Series-1<br />

Phase One A/S IQ160 28mm F/12 1/200s ISO100<br />

Beyond The Normal Imagery<br />

Rodger Klein is an artist & photographer specializing in objective and non-objective underwater<br />

imagery. Mr. Klein has an Master of Fine Arts Degree. He is also a certified scuba instructor with<br />

over 3000 dives. He lives and works in Venice Beach, California. Contact: rhkuw.com.<br />

88 Vol 7


Imagery Series-2<br />

NIKON D800E 16mm F/9 1/250s ISO160<br />

Imagery Series-3<br />

Phase One A/S IQ160 28mm F/10 1/250s ISO100<br />

Imagery Series-4<br />

NIKON D800E 20mm F/14 1/250s ISO100


Imagery Series-5<br />

NIKON D800E 16mm F/11 1/200s ISO100


Folds of Body<br />

Canon EOS 7D 44mm F/16 1/250s ISO100


John Edwards<br />

The One Glance<br />

Canon EOS 7D 70mm F/6.3 1/200s ISO200


Current<br />

Mood Arjun Mark<br />

Arjun Mark is currently an advertising<br />

and fashion photographer working<br />

from Mumbai. However, he frequents<br />

other cities within the country and abroad<br />

on assignments. Almost 7 years since his<br />

professional debut, Arjun Mark is recognized<br />

as one of the most creative photographer’s of<br />

his generation. Arjun has been awarded and<br />

chosen as Luerzer’s Archive’s 200 Best Ad<br />

Photographers Worldwide, <strong>Volume</strong> 2012/13.<br />

His work embodies his love for the art form,<br />

people, places, aspects of the world around,<br />

the way each reflect their attitudes and the way<br />

light acts upon those physical characteristics<br />

to reflect the absolute integrity; the way each<br />

moment produces a change and the way<br />

photography can reflect and reveal us to<br />

ourselves<br />

His photographs have been featured in several<br />

prominent magazines including GQ, Vogue,<br />

L’uomo Vogue-Italy, ELLE, Harper’s Bazaar,<br />

L’Officiel, Grazia and Marie Claire among others.<br />

Arjun’s has shot several notable campaigns<br />

for brands like Reebok, ITC, Cadbury, Nike, ICC<br />

World cup 2011 worldwide campaign, Titan,<br />

Lee, Tanishq, Nirav Modi Jewellery, Farah Khan<br />

Fine Jewellery, IPL Campaigns, Wills Lifestyle,<br />

Ford and Amazon just to name a few.<br />

Arjun’s body of work includes portraits and<br />

commercial assignments with numerous<br />

distinguished personalities like Sachin<br />

Tendulkar, MS.Dhoni, Matthew Haydon, The<br />

Indian Cricket team,<br />

Rahul Khanna, Irfan<br />

Khan, Rishi Kapoor,<br />

Vivek Oberoi, Aditya Roy<br />

Kapur, Arunoday Singh,<br />

Alia Bhatt, Chitrangada<br />

Singh, Mandira Bedi, Amy<br />

Jackson, are a few of<br />

those captured through<br />

his lens.<br />

Arjun has also closely worked with fashion<br />

icons in the industry like Tarun Tahiliani,<br />

Narendra Kumar, Rohit Bal, Shivan & Narresh,<br />

Wendell Rodricks to name a few.<br />

Website: arjunmark.com<br />

High Art<br />

Canon EOS 5DS 47mm F/13 1/125s ISO100


Current Mood<br />

Canon EOS 5DS 24mm F/5.6 1/125s ISO100


Current Mood<br />

Canon EOS 5DS 24mm F/4 1/250s ISO50


Crumbling Fears<br />

Canon EOS 5DS 24mm F/11 1/125s ISO100<br />

Intimate Feelings<br />

Canon EOS 5DS 24mm F/11 1/125s ISO100<br />

Fantasy Relived<br />

Canon EOS 5DS 105mm F/11 1/125s ISO100


design is<br />

y life<br />

MILANO<br />

FIRENZE<br />

PARIS<br />

LONDON<br />

SHANGHAI<br />

SHENZHEN<br />

ISTITUTO<br />

MARANGONI<br />

.COM

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