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COUNTRYSIDE ▯ HISTORY & HERITAGE ▯ CRAFT ▯ COOKERY ▯ GARDENING ▯ TRAVEL
Life at nature’s pace
Ancient sentinel of marsh and fen
Dishes enhanced with malty smoothness
Miniature artworks in fabric and thread
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GENTLE
BEGINNINGS

Contents
March 2018
64
92
18
In the garden
In the kitchen
Craft
10 Species tulips reveal their treasure
18 Tranquil plot comes to life
26 The garden in March
44 Woodland plants offer
46 Growing miniature greens
52 Fresh and tangy rhubarb
60 Treat for teatime
64 Dishes enhanced with silky stout
70 Regional & Seasonal:
The Cornish Seaweed Company
30 Displays of heady hyacinths
88 Cheery cushion knit
100 Weaving twigs with colour
4

112
100 72 104
Country matters
History and heritage
Regulars
72 Fences brought to life
104 A distinctive native breed
38 Hillside home for ferns
79 Cultivating a British brew
92 Buttons of exquisite intricacy
112 A tiny city’s Fenland triumph
6 Readers’ letters
8 Our LandScape
36 In the garden
50 In the kitchen
62 Subscription offer
86 In the home
122 UK events
5

NATURAL
ALLURE
With their heady scent and rainbow
hues, species tulips reveal a bewitching
beauty as spring unfolds
Growing to just 6in (15cm) in
height, striking Tulipa tarda
is best placed at the front of
the border or rockery.
Tulipa saxatilis ‘Lilac
Wonder’ glows golden
yellow at the base of its
soft mauve-pink petals.
AS THE EARLY spring garden slowly
awakens, delicate blooms emerge to display
their hidden treasures. Among the unfurling
foliage, species tulips open to greet the gentle
sun, revealing inner markings at the base of lustrous
petals in a cocktail of colours. Shades of wine-red,
purple or violet, gold, cream and white shine out in
beds, borders, rockeries and pots. Some are
intoxicatingly fragrant, others brilliantly colourful.
Originating from the wild, species tulips retain a
simple, refined beauty, the way nature intended.
Dozens of different species grow across the steppes and
mountainous regions of Central Asia. They were first
introduced to Europe from Turkey in the 16th century.
Here, they were destined to become the ancestors of the
spectacular garden hybrids that dominate spring
displays. These dazzle for a season but seldom return,
unlike the originals, almost all of which reappear
unbidden year after year.
Species tulips are also known as botanical tulips, a
name that misleadingly implies they are specialised and
tricky to cultivate. “Tulip species are not difficult to
grow, providing the conditions are right and, as they
become more widely available, gardeners are being won
over by their subtle beauty and longevity,” says Richard
Wilford, author of Tulips, Species and Hybrids for the
Gardener. He is also the manager of garden design and
collection support at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew. ›
10

A burst of Tulipa turkestanica.
A bulb bears up to a dozen
white star-shaped flowers 1-2in
(3-5cm) wide, showing deep
yellow at the base.
11

After lying derelict for almost a
century, the Benmore Fernery has
been painstakingly rebuilt.
RESTORED TO GRANDEUR
Perched high against a rugged ravine, a renovated glasshouse is
home once more to a collection of delicate ferns
38

IN A REMOTE spot in the wild Argyll landscape sits a
as a fashionable addition to estates and gardens at this period.
unique building. Tucked away in a steep, south-west-facing
Sadly, Duncan lost his fortune and the fernery went into
gully on the Cowal peninsula, all that can be seen of it from decline, lying derelict for nearly 100 years. It was already in a
below is the south wall that dominates the narrow ravine.
neglected state when the Benmore Estate became an annexe of
From above, it appears like a casket, clinging to the cliff side. the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh (RBGE) in 1928. By the
This is the Benmore Fernery, built in 1874 at the height of a year 2000, it was a ruin. The thick rubble walls remained largely
Victorian fern craze. In its heyday, it would have been filled with intact, but an interior arch over the entrance had become
plants from as far away as Australia and the Americas. These dangerous and had been taken down. All that was left of the roof
plants of warm temperate regions would not survive a British were a few distorted iron hoops still in place on the buttresses.
winter without protection. Then, paths wound through the
The internal landscape was exposed to the elements, including an
greenery, stairs led to higher levels and water trickled through a annual rainfall of 80-120in (200-300cm). Broken wooden frames
grotto. Built at the behest of Scottish businessman James
from the glazed panels lay rotting on the fernery floor.
Duncan, owner of the Benmore Estate, the fernery was regarded The fern collection had long since disappeared. Paths and ›
39

“Here hyacinths of heavenly blue,
shook their rich tresses to the morn.”
James Montgomery, ‘The Adventure of a Star’
Individual florets are scattered over
a favourite silver spoon placed on a
softly folded napkin, adding a bright
welcome to the breakfast table.
Twin blooms are slipped into a clean glass bottle,
in a vintage metal crate. Wooden spoons are stored
alongside, mirroring the arrangement, to create a
pretty and practical display.
32
Sprigs of thyme stand beside a single
hyacinth, their dusty green leaves
offsetting its rich lilac petals. This
fragrant pairing brings a touch of
scent to a tabletop decoration.
Photography: Living4Media; Florapress; PlainPicture

Bundles of pink
hyacinths fill a
china teapot, with
slender budding
twigs hinting at the
coming spring.
33

The silhouette of a pear tree,
Pyrus nivalis, underplanted with
clipped box square, creates a
focal point behind the house.
Narcissus pseudonarcissus
trumpets spring’s arrival.
Fragrant Narcissus actaea, with its
cupped, red-edged centre.
trumpets and white twisted petals are equally delicate. So far,
both these have gained full marks for endurance and charm.
The plantings are united by the nodding bells of
snakeshead fritillaries, Fritillaria meleagris, that have spread
throughout the area. They particularly relish the heavy, damp
soil. At the top of the mature oaks are raucous bands of
rooks, rowdy with nests. “They eat my purple and blue
crocus,” bemoans Keith.
There is a special corner in the first orchard by the stream
that surrounds the garden. Here stands an elegant white
pergola that forms a shelter for the grave of their much-loved
dog Gwenny, who died, aged 17, in 2011. ›
“Now when the primrose makes a splendid show,
And lilies face the March-winds in full blow,
And humbler growths as moved with one desire
Put on, to welcome spring, their best attire,”
William Wordsworth, ‘Poor Robin’
23

REGIONAL
&
SEASONAL
TASTE OF THE OCEAN
THE BEAUTIFUL WATERSIDE village of Gweek,
with its clusters of whitewashed cottages, lies at the head
of the Helford River in South Cornwall, on the edge of
a verdant landscape. Once a bustling port, its history
dates back to 450BC when it traded tin with the Phoenicians,
and its name means forest village. Now best known for hosting
the National Seal Centre, it is also home to a seaweed business.
Owned by Caro Warwick-Evans and Tim van Berkel, The
Cornish Seaweed Company was created five years ago, more by
accident than planning. The pair met at university, and on
finishing, Caro moved abroad to work in renewable energy with
remote communities while Tim involved himself with wildlife
and conservation. “A serious motorbike accident brought Caro
back to the UK, and she settled in Cornwall,” explains Tim.
“For me, the lure of the sea has always been strong, so a move
back to the coast was a natural progression.”
Jobs can be hard to find in Cornwall, so the pair struggled.
“The turning point came in 2011 when Caro listened to an
episode of Farming Today,” says Tim. “The programme featured
seaweed; the benefits of it and how it was farmed in Ireland. It
seemed there was an untapped market in the UK. We both love
surfing and snorkelling, and appreciate good food.”
Seaweed is high in vitamins and minerals, including iron and
calcium. It is sustainable and becoming more popular. Though it
grows plentifully on the Cornish coast, the pair did not initially
have the skills to harvest and produce it. They turned to Irish
company, AlgAran in County Donegal, who were keen to help.
Caro worked for them for two weeks to learn the trade.
“We started small scale, and the first three years were tough,”
explains Tim. “We lived in caravans and worked every day. It
finally paid off, as we are now bigger and more profitable than
we ever imagined.” The business operates from a large warehouse
shared with a local salt producer.
The seaweed is sold directly to restaurants and food
producers as an ingredient for sausages and salami. They also
have a selection of seaweeds and skincare products for sale to the
general public, online.
At spring low tides, the seaweed can be picked from the
beach. This traditional method is much better for the seabed and
ecosystems than larger-scale machine harvesting. Most of the
seaweed is found around Coverack and on the east coast of The
Lizard. The north coast of Cornwall is also productive.
At other times, it is reached by diving. “Seaweed grows in
abundance, but we are only allowed to harvest in particular
70

A passion for coastal life has led to a
thriving Cornish seaweed business
All-Green Soup
75g fresh or 10g dried
sea spaghetti
1 tbsp olive oil
2 leeks, chopped
2 courgettes, diced
200g frozen peas
200g spinach
200g cabbage, diced
1.3 litres vegetable stock
2 handfuls fresh basil
salt and ground black
pepper
Photography: Emli Bendixen; Tom Holmes
places and definitely not in a conservation area, or polluted
water,” says Tim. “It was tricky to find out who owns the land.
It’s a mixture of the Duchy, private landowners and the council.
We had to apply for a licence to pick before we could trade.”
The seaweed season varies from species to species. At peak
times, the company employs six part-time pickers and three
packers/harvest managers. Depending on the tides, the pickers
may only need to wade into the water. If free diving is necessary,
it is to a maximum depth of 16ft (5m), and trusty boat the
Cornish Sea Badger is called into action.
“I love to dive, as the water is usually clear and I can watch
the fish, jellyfish and spider crabs nipping about. It’s only if
there’s been a storm that the water becomes clouded. Some
species of seaweed are hard to find, so it’s more of a challenge
than you think. We are in the hands of the moon, tide and swell,
and in the end, the sea decides if we will get a harvest or not.”
Once picked, the seaweed is put into bags so it can be
weighed to calculate water content. It is given a thorough wash
and then laid on racks in polytunnels to dry in the heat of the
sun. This can take from just a few hours to four days. Once dry,
it is re-weighed and packaged up, ready to sell. Some is made
into flakes, using a hammer mill, to add to biscuits.
If using dried sea spaghetti, rehydrate in cold water for 10 mins,
prior to cooking. The water can be used to make up some of the
stock. In a large pan, heat the olive oil and add the leeks. Fry
gently for a few minutes until they begin to soften, then add the
courgettes. Continue to fry until both are softened. Add the peas,
spinach, seaweed and cabbage and cover with the stock. Bring to
the boil, then simmer for 20 mins until the contents of the pan are
very soft. Add the basil and blend. Season to taste and serve.
▯ Recipe: The Seaweed Cookbook: A guide to edible seaweeds and how to cook with them,
by Caroline Warwick-Evans and Tim van Berkel, £15 www.annesspubishing.com
Tim is in his element as a seaweeder and cannot now
imagine doing anything else. “I enjoy eating seaweed. Fresh
spaghetti is my favourite, and it can be eaten cooked or raw.
We work hard at educating others on the benefits of this
quality foodstuff. Interest is growing, and I am hopeful that it
will become a staple part of the British diet in the future.”
▯ Words: Julie Brown
CONTACT
www.cornishseaweed.co.uk
71

Rhubarb, ginger and vanilla scone ring
Makes 10
400g rhubarb,
trimmed and cut into
6cm pieces
60g stem ginger,
thinly sliced
2 tbsp vanilla bean
paste
260g self-raising flour,
plus extra for dusting
50g chilled unsalted
butter, cubed
2 tbsp caster sugar
100ml milk, plus extra
for brushing
Preheat the oven to 200°C/gas mark 6. Place
the rhubarb pieces on an oven tray lined with
baking paper. Bake for 15 mins, then allow to
cool. Drain any excess water from the cooked
rhubarb. Turn the oven up to 220°C/gas mark 7.
Sieve the flour into a large bowl, then add the
butter and rub it into the flour by pinching it
together swiftly using fingers and thumbs. Stir in
the sugar with a wooden spoon. Measure out
the milk in a jug, then stir in the vanilla paste
until combined. Add the milk and vanilla to the
dry mixture and bring together into a dough. Add
the ginger and baked rhubarb, and mix together.
Use the hands to bring all the ingredients
together into a dough and knead for 2 mins.
On a clean surface dusted with flour, roll out
the dough to approximately 2cm thick. Using a
6cm fluted cookie cutter, cut out as many
scones as possible. Place them side by side
around the inner edge of a 25cm round tart tin
dusted liberally with flour, to start forming a
circle. Roll out the remaining dough again and
repeat the process until there is little or no
dough left and the scone circle is complete.
Brush with milk and bake for 15-20 mins until
golden and fluffy. Allow the scone ring to cool
slightly on the tray, then transfer to a cooling
tray to cool completely.

WOOLLY COMPANION
88

MATERIALS
• 10mm circular needle, no
more than 80cm long
• 4.5mm pair of straight
knitting needles
• 6mm crochet hook
• Rowan Big Wool, 3 x 100g balls,
shade 001
• Rowan Hemp Tweed, 1 x 50g ball,
shade 138, Pumice
• Small amount of black DK yarn
for features
• Spare contrast yarn for stitch marker
• Cushion pad 18 x 14in (46 x 36cm)
• 6 buttons approximately 25mm
diameter
• Sewing thread for the buttons
• Large handful of toy filling for the
head and feet
• Blunt tapestry needle
Finished Size
Approximately 18 x 14in (46 x 36cm)
Tension
Body of cushion: 9 stitches x 10 rows
over 4in (10cm) in loop stitch
Head: 19 stitches x 28 rows over 4in
(10cm) in stocking stitch
This eye-catching sheep cushion is a delight to knit
with his cosy loop stitch body and expressive face
Abbreviations
K Knit
P Purl
K2tog Knit two stitches together
P2tog Purl two stitches together
RS Right side
St(s) Stitch(es)
Kfb Knit into the front and back of stitch
M1 Make a stitch. With the left needle,
lift the strand from front to back between
two stitches, creating a new stitch. Knit
the new stitch through the back of the loop
M1p Make a stitch purl wise. With the
left needle, lift the strand from front to
back between two stitches, creating a
new stitch. Purl the new stitch through
the back of the loop
ML Make a loop stitch. Knit the next stitch,
but do not slip the stitch off the needle.
Bring the working yarn forward and wrap
the yarn around the left thumb to make a
loop, approximately 1in (3cm) long. Pass the
working yarn back between the two needles
and knit into the front of the same stitch. This
time, slip the stitch off the left needle, as for
a normal knit stitch. Pass the previous knit
stitch over the loop stitch to secure it.
Give the loop a little tug to adjust the length
as the row is worked. ›
89

BEAUTY IN A BUTTON
92

Anna McDowell uses intricate threadwork to create Dorset buttons,
tiny works of art with a unique 400-year history
93

Visitors can take a guided tour to the top of the Octagon, climbing 165 steps and ducking through low portals to walk on the lantern’s aged timber
beams (above). In contrast to the main cathedral, the light-filled Lady Chapel has no stained glass (below left). The kneelers are worked to show
the saint’s symbol and name, along with the parish (below right).

Black velvet cake
Serves 12
250ml stout
250g unsalted butter, plus
extra for greasing
250g caster sugar
50g cocoa powder
2 eggs
150ml double cream
15g black food
colouring gel
280g plain flour
1 tbsp bicarbonate of soda
150g dark chocolate,
broken into small pieces
100ml sour cream
500g icing sugar
Preheat the oven to 180°C/gas mark 4. Grease and line a 23cm round cake tin. In a large
mixing bowl, cream the butter with the sugar with the back of a wooden spoon for 2-3 mins
until creamy. Mix in the cocoa powder, then beat in the eggs one at a time. Stir in the double
cream, black food colouring gel and the stout, whisking until combined. Sift in the flour and
bicarbonate of soda, and fold until combined. Add the small pieces of chocolate and mix in.
Transfer the mixture to the tin and bake for 50-55 mins until an inserted skewer comes
out clean. Allow the cake to cool in the tin, then remove the baking paper, saving the crumbs
that fall away from the cake for decoration. Place the cake on a serving plate.
In a large bowl, mix together the sour cream and icing sugar until smooth. Pour over the
cake and sprinkle with the reserved cake crumbs.
66

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