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C<br />

10 <strong>Style</strong> | interview<br />

Wine Master<br />

Bob Campbell is one of New Zealand’s most acclaimed wine experts, part of an elite group<br />

holding Master of Wine qualifications. There are only 343 Masters of Wine wordwide, and, on<br />

top of this, Bob is also an accomplished writer, public speaker, chartered accountant and founder<br />

of The Wine Gallery. With New Zealand on a wine buzz this month due to Winetopia, we took<br />

the chance to ask for some advice from the master.<br />

What is currently an on-trend or<br />

“socially acceptable” wine to be<br />

drinking?<br />

I tend to drink what I like rather<br />

than following any convention,<br />

but here are a few thoughts on<br />

upward trends. Chardonnay is<br />

strongly back in fashion after<br />

being elbowed aside by pinot<br />

gris a few years ago. That’s a<br />

trend I’m very pleased about.<br />

Sauvignon blanc continues its<br />

popularity, particularly in export<br />

markets where it leads by a huge<br />

margin from everything else.<br />

New varieties on the map include<br />

Albariño, which I believe has a<br />

strong future in this county. The<br />

sparkling Italian wine, prosecco,<br />

continues to enjoy growing<br />

popularity with look-a-likes<br />

emerging to cash in on the trend.<br />

How important is the glass?<br />

Should we swap long-stemmed<br />

wine glasses for more<br />

contemporary tumblers?<br />

Glasses are very important. I<br />

estimate that the difference<br />

between drinking out of a<br />

good glass and a poor glass can<br />

contribute as much as 25% to<br />

the pleasure I get from drinking a<br />

glass of wine. I like to use largebowled<br />

glasses that are fine (and<br />

not chunky). I marginally prefer<br />

stemmed glasses, but regularly<br />

use stemless glasses, which can<br />

often be more practical (easier to<br />

stay in the dishwasher).<br />

Like wine, the choice of glasses<br />

is a personal thing. Choose a<br />

shape that pleases you. I don’t<br />

use separate glasses for red and<br />

white wine, preferring to put a<br />

little less wine in the glass when<br />

I drink white rather than using a<br />

smaller glass.<br />

How does alcohol content affect<br />

the taste of wine? Is there a<br />

perfect percentage?<br />

As alcohol increases it tends<br />

to make wine become more<br />

full-bodied, very slightly sweeter<br />

and it can make the texture<br />

slightly softer. However, excess<br />

alcohol can leave a slight burning<br />

sensation on the throat and give<br />

the wine a thread of hardness.<br />

The perfect alcohol level varies<br />

from wine to wine. Alcohol must<br />

be “in balance” with the other<br />

components in the wine.<br />

What is your view on the New<br />

Zealand wine industry?<br />

The New Zealand wine industry<br />

is remarkably healthy when<br />

compared with wine industries<br />

in many other countries. We<br />

are now the 13th largest wineproducing<br />

country in the world,<br />

having just overtaken Brazil and<br />

Greece. The prices we earn<br />

in most export markets are<br />

higher than just about every<br />

other country, which says a lot<br />

about the quality perception<br />

people have for our wine. We<br />

do “quality” (as opposed to<br />

“quantity”) very well. Our cool<br />

climate styles (fresh, bright, highenergy<br />

wines) are very much in<br />

vogue at the moment.<br />

I’d like to see New Zealand’s wine<br />

regions devote more attention<br />

to improving the wine tourism<br />

experience with more<br />

restaurants at cellar doors and<br />

more innovative ways of showcasing<br />

our winemaking and<br />

viticultural methods.<br />

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