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T h e O l d S t a t i o n e r - N o 7 8<br />

recording parrot activities for 10 minutes at a time at 3<br />

different spots on this island, which is done 5 times a month.<br />

When they'd finished I was asked if I would like to go back<br />

the long way round. "I'm up for anything" I replied. So we<br />

continue on our path instead of retracing our steps. Soon we<br />

reached an edge to the island and started back along the<br />

beach. This soon ran out and we had to clamber up into the<br />

jungle. The Peruvian has a machete and literally hacked his/<br />

our way forward. Twice more we got down onto the beach for<br />

a while and then back up for another good hack. It was hard<br />

work but great fun. The boat driver starts calling on a walkietalkie<br />

as it was being to get dark. Eventually we reached the<br />

boat with just a little daylight left.<br />

Tony, the volunteer, was doing biology post grad studies in the<br />

USA and was something of an entomologist. He showed me<br />

a moth sitting exposed on a leaf This was because a virus has<br />

got into the moth's brain to make it think this is a good idea.<br />

When other moths came close to see why it's there the virus<br />

released spoors to "capture" another moth - and so the world<br />

goes round. Walking back from the boat in the dark we<br />

spotted a line of termites crossing our path. Then I spotted 2<br />

frogs sitting having their dinner! It can't be often that dinner<br />

serves itself! I haven't seen lots of animals (as there were in<br />

Kenya last year) but a lot of the life in the jungle is plant and<br />

insect life. There is a lot of both of those.<br />

SuNDAY<br />

Breakfast was at a "normal" time for a change. I gave Yuri the<br />

morning off so that I could do something I never do at home<br />

- relax. I've a good book, a comfortable hammock (not in my<br />

room) and can watch monkeys, macaws and wild boar, all of<br />

which came quite close because there is so little human<br />

activity. In the afternoon we visited another tower built to be<br />

able to see above the trees. The climb was about 80 feet<br />

vertically with 3 metal rings for safety! It's mostly birds that<br />

can be seen and heard but there were also plenty of butterflies,<br />

even this high.<br />

When we got back Yuri explained that the journey back to<br />

Refugio Lodge the next morning leaves around 10.30 am and<br />

breakfast will be at 4,45. I express some confusion.<br />

His reply was "don't you want to go "the Peruvian equivalent<br />

of jaguar hunting?" I'm up for anything so an early breakfast<br />

it will be.<br />

MoNDAY<br />

We joined another couple and their guide for a 90 minute<br />

boat trip looking for signs of jaguar or occelet (smaller cats).<br />

The river often changes its course over a period oftime<br />

depending on the effects of the rainy season. I am intrigued by<br />

the whole thing.<br />

Eventually we stopped and walked around an area that was<br />

newly formed and will grow into rain forest over the next few<br />

years. There were fresh paw prints but no sightings available.<br />

The TRC is about 800 feet above sea level. The rivers I have<br />

been on flow into Bolivia and on to Brazil; becoming part of<br />

the Rio Madeira and join the Amazon itself East of Manaus.<br />

At this point the Amazon is about 3 miles wide (which is why<br />

it was easy to see from my plane seat).<br />

The journey back to Refugio Lodge was quicker as the current<br />

is with us, but it's still rice in banana leaves for lunch. On<br />

arrival Yuri suggested we visit a farm based across the river.<br />

The old farmer has lived there on his own for 15 years. He had<br />

a generator to create electricity but no TV and thereby no<br />

35

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