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Caribbean Beat — 25th Anniversary Edition — March/April 2017 (#144)

A calendar of events; music, film, and book reviews; travel features; people profiles, and much more.

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ADVERTORIAL<br />

Celebrating our storytellers, writers,<br />

poets, dramatists at the NGC Bocas Lit Fest<br />

e are a nation of storytellers.<br />

There are stories in our songs:<br />

our calypso, soca, and chutney.<br />

There are stories in our mas, our drama,<br />

and our dance. We engage in word-play<br />

outside eateries and on street corners,<br />

and in chance meetings at the marketplace.<br />

The National Gas Company of Trinidad<br />

and Tobago Limited (NGC) recognises,<br />

elevates, and celebrates the innate skills of<br />

our storytellers, writers, poets, and dramatists,<br />

through its ongoing<br />

title sponsorship of the NGC<br />

Bocas Lit Fest. NGC Bocas<br />

gives a voice to local <strong>—</strong> and<br />

even regional <strong>—</strong> authors,<br />

writers, spoken-word artists,<br />

and more. It is eagerly anticipated<br />

by an increasingly<br />

global audience.<br />

The Festival’s standards<br />

of excellence are applied to<br />

workshops, panel discussions,<br />

book readings, and signings,<br />

as well as poetry slam<br />

competitions and film screenings. The<br />

children are specially catered for,<br />

through the Children’s Storytelling<br />

Caravan, which reaches out to communities,<br />

and where children can create<br />

their own stories which are then<br />

compiled and published as a Bocas Lit<br />

Fest production.<br />

NGC’s President, Mr Mark Loquan<br />

Panel Discussion at the NGC Bocas Lit Fest<br />

NGC Children’s Bocas Lit Fest<br />

This festival has commemorated<br />

writers such as Tiphanie Yanique,<br />

winner of the Felix Dennis Prize for Best<br />

Collection; Marlon James, winner of the<br />

Man Booker Prize; Andre Alexis, winner<br />

of the Scotiabank Giller Prize; and Vahni<br />

Capideo, awarded the Forward Prize for<br />

Best Poetry Collection in 2016. NGC<br />

Bocas Lit Fest has further expanded<br />

their reach through partnerships with<br />

organisations to host CODE’s Burt<br />

Awards for writers of young adult<br />

books.<br />

The NGC Bocas Lit Fest<br />

is a vital element of our<br />

Corporate Social Responsibility<br />

programme, through<br />

which NGC supports local<br />

development through<br />

youth development in<br />

sport and education; the<br />

preservation and promotion<br />

of arts and culture;<br />

environmental protection<br />

and preservation; community<br />

development and<br />

enhancement.<br />

NGC takes pride in local and<br />

regional authors, storytellers, and<br />

poets who have added to the<br />

international literacy landscape,<br />

recording and preserving our<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong>-ness for generations<br />

to come.<br />

The <strong>2017</strong> NGC Bocas Lit Fest runs from 26 to 30 <strong>April</strong>.<br />

For more information, visit www.bocaslitfest.com


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Contents<br />

No. 144 <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong><br />

17 68<br />

EMBARK<br />

17 Datebook<br />

Events around the <strong>Caribbean</strong> in<br />

<strong>March</strong> and <strong>April</strong>, from a river race in<br />

Belize to St Patrick’s Day in St Croix<br />

<strong>—</strong> plus a drum festival, kite-flying,<br />

and cricket<br />

24 Word of Mouth<br />

Whether you experience it on stage<br />

or from the audience, Trinidad and<br />

Tobago’s national spoken word<br />

poetry slam is full of thrills<br />

26 The look<br />

Trinidadian swimwear designer<br />

Chandra Maharaj makes a seamlessly<br />

elegant transition to Carnival<br />

Monday wear<br />

28 Bookshelf, playlist, and<br />

screenshots<br />

This month’s reading, listening, and<br />

film-watching picks, in our books,<br />

music, and film columns<br />

ARRIVE<br />

68 Offtrack<br />

Pakaraima bound<br />

The spectacular Pakaraima<br />

Mountains, near Guyana’s border<br />

with Brazil and Venezuela, are a<br />

landscape of dramatic table-top<br />

mountains, rolling valleys, and<br />

remote villages. It’s not an easy part<br />

of the world for outsiders to visit.<br />

But the annual Pakaraima Mountain<br />

Safari attracts visitors hungry for<br />

adventure <strong>—</strong> like Neil Marks<br />

78 neighbourhood<br />

Port Elizabeth, Bequia<br />

The capital of the second-largest of<br />

the Grenadine Islands is a haven for<br />

yachties <strong>—</strong> but also for artists and<br />

foodies<br />

IMMERSE<br />

80 Layover<br />

Bridgetown, Barbados<br />

As one of the <strong>Caribbean</strong>’s most<br />

popular tourist destinations, Barbados<br />

is also a major hub for international<br />

flights to the region. Our guide to<br />

exploring the island when time is tight<br />

ENGAGE<br />

82 inspire<br />

Inner-city art<br />

For middle-class Jamaicans and tourists<br />

alike, downtown Kingston, with its<br />

deprived communities, can seem<br />

off-limits. So when a group of young<br />

artists began a public mural project<br />

in the Fleet Street area, it wasn’t just<br />

about beautifying the neighbourhood,<br />

writes Tanya Batson-Savage. It was<br />

really about opening opportunities for<br />

local residents<br />

34 Cookup<br />

A compendium of curry<br />

From Jamaican goat to Trini doubles,<br />

curry is one of the definitive flavours<br />

of the <strong>Caribbean</strong>. There are hundreds<br />

of curry blends around the world <strong>—</strong><br />

what are the <strong>Caribbean</strong>’s best, and<br />

how are they evolving? Franka Philip<br />

finds out<br />

38 caribbean beat turns 25<br />

The beat goes on<br />

As <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> marks its twenty-fifth anniversary, we look back at<br />

our coverage of <strong>Caribbean</strong> people, arts, and culture since 1992. Lots has<br />

changed <strong>—</strong> in the magazine, in our region, in the wider world <strong>—</strong> in the<br />

past quarter-century. What hasn’t changed is our mission to share the<br />

stories of the <strong>Caribbean</strong>’s best and brightest, from a <strong>Caribbean</strong> perspective,<br />

for a <strong>Caribbean</strong> audience. You can see it in the covers of the 144 issues<br />

we’ve published over the years <strong>—</strong> and the stories behind those images<br />

8 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


<strong>Caribbean</strong><strong>Beat</strong><br />

An MEP publication<br />

80<br />

Editor Nicholas Laughlin<br />

General manager Halcyon Salazar<br />

Online marketing Caroline Taylor<br />

Design artists Kevon Webster & Bridget van Dongen<br />

Editorial assistant Shelly-Ann Inniss<br />

Business Development Manager<br />

Trinidad & Tobago<br />

Yuri Chin Choy<br />

T: (868) 460 0068, 622 3821<br />

F: (868) 628 0639<br />

E: yuri@meppublishers.com<br />

Business Development Manager<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> & International<br />

Denise Chin<br />

T: (868) 683 0832<br />

F: (868) 628 0639<br />

E: dchin@meppublishers.com<br />

84 Green<br />

Progress report<br />

In the pages of <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong>, over<br />

the past twenty-five years, we’ve often<br />

reported on environmental stories.<br />

So what’s the real state of progress<br />

across the region, when it comes to<br />

protecting our natural resources?<br />

Nazma Muller investigates<br />

86On this day<br />

Calypso with a conscience<br />

A beloved musical icon since the 1950s,<br />

Harry Belafonte has an equally long<br />

reputation as a political activist. And<br />

the parallel themes of his public life,<br />

entertainment and activism, both have<br />

their roots in Belafonte’s childhood<br />

in Jamaica. James Ferguson finds out<br />

more<br />

Media & Editorial Projects Ltd.<br />

6 Prospect Avenue, Maraval, Port of Spain, Trinidad and Tobago<br />

T: (868) 622 3821/5813/6138<br />

F: (868) 628 0639<br />

E: caribbean-beat@meppublishers.com<br />

Website: www.meppublishers.com<br />

Read and save issues of <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> on your smartphone,<br />

tablet, computer, and favourite digital devices!<br />

88 puzzles<br />

Our crossword and other brainteasers,<br />

to keep your mind busy<br />

during your flight<br />

94 Onboard entertainment<br />

Movie and audio listings, to entertain<br />

you in the air<br />

Printed by Solo Printing Inc., Miami, Florida<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> is published six times a year for <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines by Media & Editorial Projects Ltd. It is also available on<br />

subscription. Copyright © <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines <strong>2017</strong>. All rights reserved. ISSN 1680–6158. No part of this magazine may be<br />

reproduced in any form whatsoever without the written permission of the publisher. MEP accepts no responsibility for<br />

content supplied by our advertisers. The views of the advertisers are theirs and do not represent MEP in any way.<br />

Website: www.caribbean-airlines.com<br />

96 parting shot<br />

A mosaic of greens and blues<br />

seen from high above, Barbuda’s<br />

Codrington Lagoon is a natural<br />

gem, home to mangrove forests and<br />

seabird colonies<br />

The <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines logo shows a hummingbird in flight. Native to the <strong>Caribbean</strong>, the hummingbird represents<br />

flight, travel, vibrancy, and colour. It encompasses the spirit of both the region and <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines.<br />

WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 9


Cover Martiniquan<br />

filmmaker Euzhan Palcy,<br />

twenty-five years after she<br />

appeared on the cover of<br />

the first <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />

Photo ©Yannick Coupannec/<br />

Leemage<br />

This issue’s contributors include:<br />

Jamaican Tanya Batson-Savage (“Inner-city art”,<br />

page 82) is the publisher and editor-in-chief<br />

of independent publishing house Blue Moon<br />

Publishing and the online arts and culture magazine<br />

Susumba.com. She is the author of Pumpkin Belly<br />

and Other Stories and the play Woman Tongue.<br />

Laura Dowrich (“The beat goes on”, page 38) is the<br />

content manager for Looptt.com, a news website<br />

and app based in Trinidad and Tobago.<br />

Debbie Jacob (“The beat goes on”, page 38) is a<br />

journalist, author of eight books, and longtime<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> contributor. She is also the head<br />

librarian at the International School of Port of<br />

Spain, Trinidad.<br />

Neil Marks (“Pakaraima bound”, page 68) is a<br />

Guyanese freelance journalist and stringer for Reuters.<br />

He has specialised in environmental reporting for<br />

many years, and recently won the Prince Albert II of<br />

Monaco/UNCA Award for Climate Change reporting.<br />

Ariana Herbert (“Grand slam”, page 26) is a past<br />

finalist of the First Citizens National Poetry Slam. She<br />

upholds storytelling and the exploration of alternative<br />

narratives concerning identity, gender, and disability.<br />

Nazma Muller (“Progress report”, page 84) is a<br />

Trinidad-born, Jamaica-obsessed writer who has<br />

worked in newsrooms in T&T, Jamaica, and the UK.<br />

Judy Raymond (“The beat goes on”, page 38) is a<br />

freelance writer and former editor of <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />

<strong>Beat</strong>, who has written extensively about books,<br />

arts, and politics. Her latest book, The Colour of<br />

Shadows, is a study of the conditions and images of<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> slavery.<br />

WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 11


A MESSAGE From THE CARIBBEAN AIRLINES TEAM<br />

<strong>2017</strong> is an auspicious year for both <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines and<br />

Media and Editorial Projects Limited (MEP), the publishers of<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> magazine. <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines is celebrating<br />

10 years of serving the region, and this issue marks 25 years<br />

of the magazine’s existence.<br />

The first <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> was published in 1992, under the<br />

former national carrier BWIA. When <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines began<br />

operations in 2007, we were fortunate to have <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />

as a partner for the new company.<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines is an authentic <strong>Caribbean</strong> brand, and<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> is key to our positioning as THE authority on<br />

all things <strong>Caribbean</strong>. The magazine has consistently got behind<br />

the usual <strong>Caribbean</strong> stories of sun, sand, and sea, and<br />

featured real <strong>Caribbean</strong> experiences and people, celebrating<br />

genuine <strong>Caribbean</strong> accomplishment and aspiration in sport,<br />

art, music, literature, history, cuisine, lifestyle, science and innovation,<br />

adventure, festivals, and other events.<br />

In addition to celebrating these milestones, <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />

Airlines remains focussed on enhancing the customer experience.<br />

To this end, we recently launched our new cuttingedge<br />

website www.caribbean-airlines.com, which reflects<br />

our continued commitment to delivering a unique, compelling<br />

and memorable travel experience.<br />

The new website, designed by MBLM, includes:<br />

• a responsive design, which can be viewed with ease<br />

on any size/resolution screen<br />

• an inviting user interface with content structure that is<br />

much easier to navigate<br />

• access to multiple products and services and the<br />

best deals for you, when you book online<br />

• exciting destination guides with locally produced<br />

content and imagery of popular <strong>Caribbean</strong> attractions<br />

The vibrant design is friendly and authentic, inviting customers<br />

to experience the warmth and pride of the region and<br />

what it means to be <strong>Caribbean</strong>.<br />

January and February were busy months, and <strong>March</strong> and<br />

<strong>April</strong> promise to continue this trend. Our convenient flight<br />

schedule makes it easy for you to get to and from the many<br />

events taking place, and we are happy that you choose to fly<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines.<br />

In February, at the request of the Government of<br />

St Vincent and the Grenadines, we operated charter services<br />

into the new Argyle International Airport. Look out for more<br />

exciting developments as we extend our network to include<br />

new destinations.<br />

We invite you to fly with us to Guyana’s Rupununi Rodeo,<br />

which is held each year over the Easter weekend (this year,<br />

15 to 17 <strong>April</strong>). The rodeo is the most popular inland sporting<br />

festival in the country. Meanwhile, <strong>April</strong> is jazz month in Tobago,<br />

with the Tobago Jazz Experience taking place from 22<br />

Nicholas Laughlin<br />

Guyana’s Rupununi Rodeo<br />

to 30 <strong>April</strong>, and Antigua will host the 50th epic sailing week<br />

from 29 <strong>April</strong> to 5 May.<br />

Beyond the <strong>Caribbean</strong> region, our North American destinations<br />

are bustling. In New York, the Tribeca Film Festival,<br />

carded for 19 to 30 <strong>April</strong>, continues to shine the spotlight<br />

on the latest films from big-name talent and the greatest<br />

from up-and-coming filmmakers. In Miami, the Carnaval on<br />

the Mile which takes place on 4 and 5 <strong>March</strong> will feature a<br />

wide array of local artists. The Calle Ocho Festival in Miami is<br />

celebrating its 40th anniversary in grand style. Calle Ocho is<br />

the largest street festival in Miami, and features the sounds<br />

of merengue, reggeaton, bachata, balada, hip-hop, rap, and<br />

jazz. And in Toronto you can let your taste buds lead the way<br />

through the Toronto Food and Drink Market from 31 <strong>March</strong><br />

to 2 <strong>April</strong>.<br />

Thank you for choosing <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines <strong>—</strong> we value<br />

your business and look forward to serving you throughout<br />

our network.<br />

Please visit our website, www.caribbean-airlines.com,<br />

become a fan by liking us on Facebook at www.facebook.com/caribbeanairlines,<br />

and follow us on Twitter and<br />

Instagram @iflycaribbean.<br />

Yours in service,<br />

The Employees of <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines<br />

12 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


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Pre-order your special meals up to 24 hours<br />

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Discounts for Children<br />

Because we care about the future!<br />

Children 2-11years old<br />

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Complimentary Meals<br />

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Persons 60 years and over who are booked<br />

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Baby on Board<br />

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datebook<br />

Your guide to <strong>Caribbean</strong> events in <strong>March</strong> and <strong>April</strong>, from a river race in<br />

Belize to jazz in Tobago<br />

Warren le platte<br />

Don’t miss . . .<br />

Phagwah (Holi)<br />

12 and 13 <strong>March</strong><br />

Trinidad and Tobago, Guyana, and Suriname<br />

Known as Holi in India and Phagwah in parts of the<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong>, the Hindu spring festival of colours and sharing<br />

love brings joy, happiness, unity (even if just for a while),<br />

and thanksgiving. Some even refer to it as the Hindu<br />

New Year. Although a religious event, it’s completely allinclusive.<br />

No one is spared from the friendly throwing of<br />

brightly coloured gulal powder, spraying of deep purple<br />

abeer dye with homemade water guns, or the goodnatured<br />

rivalry. At a fast pace and high pitch, folk songs<br />

called chowtals are sung to the accompaniment of the<br />

dholak and the majeera, both percussion instruments.<br />

You won’t be able to resist dancing. Phagwah is deep in<br />

religious significance with symbols of purification and the<br />

promotion of good health. Spread the love.<br />

How to get there? <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines operates daily<br />

flights to Piarco International Airport in Trinidad,<br />

Cheddi Jagan International Airport in Guyana, and<br />

Johann Pengel International Airport in Suriname<br />

from <strong>Caribbean</strong> and North American destinations<br />

WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 17


datebook<br />

If you’re in . . .<br />

BELIZE<br />

BARBADOS<br />

GRAND CAYMAN<br />

jcariddi photography<br />

La Ruta Maya River<br />

Challenge<br />

3 to 6 <strong>March</strong><br />

larutamaya.bz<br />

If you think the Olympics are a<br />

challenge, consider this arduous<br />

four-day river race, where only the<br />

fittest survive. With participants<br />

coming from around the world,<br />

approximately one hundred teams of<br />

three cut along the Belize Old River,<br />

paddling 175 miles from San Ignacio,<br />

Cayo District, to downtown Belize<br />

City. It’s the longest canoe race in<br />

Central America, and there can be no<br />

substitutions.<br />

Translated, La Ruta Maya means<br />

“the Maya Trail,” and it recalls the<br />

journey of ancient Maya travellers<br />

who paddled to the sea to trade<br />

with cities up the coast of Belize. As<br />

a tribute to these ancestors, the river<br />

challenge has been going steady for<br />

nineteen years. There’s rapid pace<br />

on the river, and in villages along<br />

the route, fairs, markets, and local<br />

music bands entertain the onlookers.<br />

The adventure mellows during<br />

three-night stops at the Banana Bank<br />

Lodge, Double Head Cabbage, and<br />

Old River Tavern. And on the last day,<br />

which coincides with National Heroes<br />

and Benefactors Day (previously<br />

called Baron Bliss Day), the canoes<br />

flow into the celebratory fanfare in<br />

Belize City.<br />

MAT/shutterstock.com<br />

Sandy Lane Gold Cup<br />

4 <strong>March</strong><br />

Garrison Savannah<br />

In other islands, Carnival may have<br />

finished, but its atmosphere is<br />

still alive in Barbados at the most<br />

prestigious horseracing event in the<br />

eastern <strong>Caribbean</strong>. Thirty-six years<br />

ago, in its debut year, people climbed<br />

onto roofs near the historic Garrison<br />

Savannah to get a vantage point for<br />

the pre-Gold Cup entertainment and<br />

the race itself. The weight of the<br />

spectators caused one of the roofs<br />

to collapse, sending people helterskelter.<br />

The Gold Cup isn’t just for racelovers<br />

<strong>—</strong> it’s traditional to have pomp<br />

and pageantry, and loads of family<br />

entertainment. There are activities<br />

preceding the race day, too. These<br />

include polo matches, celebrity golf<br />

tournaments and dinners, a Broadway<br />

show, and a street parade. Some of<br />

the world’s leading investors enter<br />

their horses for the race, drawn to<br />

the prestige of winning the coveted<br />

title. All this excitement leads to the<br />

main event: one race spanning nine<br />

furlongs (1,800 metres), and filled<br />

with cream-of-the-crop jockeys and<br />

horses. Maybe for race time you could<br />

become a member of the Barbados<br />

Turf Club’s Grand Stand Posse? “And<br />

they’re off!”<br />

Kaibo Kitefest<br />

17 <strong>April</strong><br />

Kaibo Beach<br />

The beautiful kites above Kaibo dive,<br />

swirl, and soar like birds. As flighty<br />

and carefree as they may seem, some<br />

of the kites are actually performing a<br />

good deed. Not just bringing families<br />

together or making children smile: the<br />

entry fee for Grand Cayman’s annual<br />

kite competition goes directly to the<br />

Acts of Random Kindness charity,<br />

an organisation that assists people<br />

throughout the Cayman community.<br />

Now in its eighth year, the<br />

competition includes categories like<br />

most creative and original kite, best<br />

kite flyer with the steadiest kite, oldest<br />

kite flyer, youngest kite flyer, best<br />

dressed (matching kite and costume),<br />

and most environmentally friendly<br />

kite. You’re free to build your kites<br />

beforehand, and if you need assistance<br />

you can head over to a kite-making<br />

workshop.<br />

Kite tricks and demos by kiteboarders<br />

are also in the mix, while live<br />

music floats on the wind. The event<br />

usually runs from 1 to 5 pm, with<br />

an exciting array of attractive prizes<br />

distributed at a ceremony beginning<br />

promptly at 4. Kite flying is one of the<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong>’s cherished Easter traditions,<br />

and on Kaibo Beach it’s free for all<br />

(unless you enter the competition).<br />

Event previews by Shelly-Ann Inniss<br />

Gelpi/shutterstock.com<br />

18 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


datebook<br />

Marvellous <strong>March</strong><br />

England cricket tour of<br />

the West Indies<br />

Antigua, St Kitts, and<br />

Barbados<br />

Cheer for the Windies and<br />

bask in the liveliness of the<br />

stands on the home grounds<br />

of cricket stars Curtly Ambrose<br />

and Sir Garfield Sobers, during<br />

this ODI series<br />

[3 to 9 <strong>March</strong>]<br />

mbbirdy/istock.com<br />

International Drum Festival<br />

Venues around Cuba<br />

fiestadeltambor.cult.cu<br />

Cubans and foreigners dance and play to Havana rhythms<br />

in masterclasses, workshops, and competitions<br />

[7 to 12 <strong>March</strong>]<br />

Moonsplash Festival<br />

The Dune Preserve, Anguilla<br />

Spend the weekend dancing<br />

in the sand to the hits of top<br />

reggae artists under the full<br />

moon and stars<br />

[9 to 12 <strong>March</strong>]<br />

30<br />

01<br />

30 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15<br />

16 17 1<br />

16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31<br />

Escape the<br />

ordinary.<br />

Work.<br />

Discover<br />

Play.<br />

Hyatt Do Regency both.<br />

It’s Trinidad. good not<br />

to be home.<br />

20 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


St Patrick’s Day Parade<br />

Christiansted, St Croix<br />

Mobs of green can be seen for miles<br />

jamming alongside beautiful floats at<br />

this <strong>Caribbean</strong>-Irish party. Watch out<br />

for the beads!<br />

[18 <strong>March</strong>]<br />

©Gail Johnson<br />

Plein Air Curaçao Festival<br />

Venues around Curaçao<br />

Local and international artists of various levels<br />

capture the splendour of the “Hidden Treasure,”<br />

including underwater and air painting<br />

[9 to 18 <strong>March</strong>]<br />

courtesy st croix st patrick’s day parade<br />

30 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15<br />

16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31<br />

WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 21


datebook<br />

Adventures in<br />

<strong>April</strong><br />

Panama International<br />

Film Festival<br />

Venues across Panama City<br />

Celebrate the passion,<br />

diversity, and flavour of<br />

cinema in this free week-long<br />

programme of screenings,<br />

workshops, and masterclasses<br />

[30 Mar to 5 Apr]<br />

christine yurick<br />

Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta<br />

Falmouth Harbour, Antigua<br />

Graceful classic ketches, schooners, and yawls create a<br />

spectacle on the seas and vie for the prizes<br />

[19 to 25 <strong>April</strong>]<br />

Tobago Jazz Experience<br />

Tobago<br />

Phenomenal performances<br />

by local and prominent<br />

international icons will chase<br />

your worries and stress away<br />

with a <strong>Caribbean</strong> flair<br />

[22 to 30 <strong>April</strong>]<br />

Started 30 <strong>March</strong><br />

30 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15<br />

16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31<br />

Inspired Products presents<br />

Unique steelpan fridge magnets<br />

Website: www.steelpansite.com<br />

Tel: 909-464-0101 (USA)<br />

Corporate orders with custom stickers welcome.<br />

22 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


hayley madden for the poetry society<br />

Writer Vahni Capildeo<br />

NGC Bocas Lit Fest<br />

Port of Spain, Trinidad<br />

Avid readers, performers,<br />

and writers celebrate words,<br />

stories, and ideas in the heart<br />

of T&T’s capital<br />

[26 to 30 <strong>April</strong>]<br />

A Cotton Photo/shutterstock.com<br />

Vertical Blue Free Diving<br />

International Competition<br />

Dean’s Blue Hole, Long Island,<br />

the Bahamas<br />

Every continent will be<br />

represented as divers plunge to<br />

win the title of world’s deepest<br />

male and female diver<br />

[30 <strong>April</strong>]<br />

30 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15<br />

16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31<br />

WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 23


word of mouth<br />

Dispatches from our correspondents around the <strong>Caribbean</strong> and further afield<br />

Seth Sylvester, 2016<br />

champion of the First<br />

Citizens National Poetry<br />

Slam<br />

Grand slam<br />

courtesy the 2 cents movement<br />

Ariana Herbert on experiencing<br />

T&T’s national spoken word<br />

poetry slam <strong>—</strong> on stage and in<br />

the audience<br />

In the latter quarter of my brief existence, I’ve often found<br />

myself in strange and surprising situations. But perhaps the<br />

best of these remains mistakenly auditioning for the largest<br />

spoken word competition in the <strong>Caribbean</strong>. Quite entirely through<br />

orchestrated actions of the universe <strong>—</strong> or perhaps because my<br />

brother got me there by telling me it was just an open mic <strong>—</strong> in<br />

2014 I found myself in the semi-finals for what was then called the<br />

Verses Bocas Poetry Slam, and a year later in the finals.<br />

Now called the First Citizens National Poetry Slam, and<br />

nationally established as one of Trinidad and Tobago’s biggest<br />

poetry platforms, the competition is the closing event of the<br />

annual NGC Bocas Lit Fest, coordinated by the literary festival<br />

and its partners the 2 Cents Movement. (This year the slam<br />

finals happen on Sunday 30 <strong>April</strong>, at the National Academy for<br />

Performing Arts in Port of Spain.)<br />

Competing for a TT$20,000 grand prize among thirteen other<br />

participants in front of internationally renowned judges is not<br />

an opportunity that arises easily <strong>—</strong> nor one that any of us poets<br />

treats lightly. It is a respected space that demands we challenge<br />

our craft and commit to excellence.<br />

Onstage, there is something truly magical about that<br />

hushed darkness before the spotlight bathes you, feeling a<br />

performance pour out of your body, and knowing you have but<br />

a few minutes to invite an audience of over a thousand people<br />

to share part of you. In the <strong>Caribbean</strong> spoken word arena, this<br />

experience is unparalleled.<br />

And for those in the audience? The real beauty is being<br />

submerged in a live story and feeling the words sing around you,<br />

surging throughout your body. Whether you feel refreshed or<br />

stung, an excellent piece insists a change upon you.<br />

Last year’s slam finals saw fourteen artists judged by<br />

T&T performance legends Paul Keens-Douglas and Wendell<br />

Manwarren, alongside Circle of Poets president Nicholas Sosa,<br />

Boston University professor Laurence Breiner, and Barbadian<br />

writer Nailah Folami Imoja. The event was graced with guest<br />

performances by T&T’s Minister of Tourism, Shamfa Cudjoe,<br />

alongside Shineque Saunders, champion of the Courts Bocas<br />

Speak Out Intercol 2016 <strong>—</strong> T&T’s national schools spoken<br />

word competition.<br />

With topics that ranged from the sombre to the hilarious,<br />

the participants that night commanded the stage. There came<br />

quiet singed by blistering lines of social critique, raucous times<br />

of delight in brilliantly ridiculous snippets, and an aftermath of<br />

respect for the sheer cunning of the poets. Seth Sylvester, the<br />

2016 winner, delved into a personal narrative that clutched the<br />

audience and then released them to a standing ovation. There<br />

is something undeniably human about connecting to someone<br />

else’s experience, and Seth’s performance to this day affects me.<br />

My favourite part is always when someone else goes, I thought<br />

it was only me . . . n<br />

24 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


the look<br />

Thank<br />

God it’s<br />

Monday<br />

From swimwear to<br />

Carnival Monday wear,<br />

Trinidadian Chandra<br />

Maharaj’s designs combine<br />

classic lines with comfort<br />

Photography by Ikenna Douglas<br />

26 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


Pieces from the “Goddess” Monday<br />

wear Carnival collection come with cool<br />

removable jewellery<br />

The saying “less is more” perfectly describes Trinidadian<br />

Chandra Maharaj’s creations. She’s been designing for as<br />

long as she can remember, but her path became clear when<br />

she redirected her master’s degree from international business<br />

to fashion. Inspired by anything that moves her joyous soul, her<br />

well-known swimwear line includes classic yet sexy pieces made<br />

with sublime fabrics that are vibrant in colour and print. Her latest<br />

Carnival Monday wear collection incorporating removable jewellery<br />

is her best yet, and something she plans to expand in the future. And<br />

her swimwear isn’t the only thing making waves <strong>—</strong> her fitness gear<br />

is just as fabulous and, of course, incredibly comfy.<br />

Alia Michèle Orane<br />

www.aliamichele.com<br />

For more information: visit www.chandramaharajdesigns.<br />

com or email info@chandramaharajdesigns.com<br />

WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 27


Bookshelf<br />

Canouan Suite and Other Pieces, by Philip Nanton (Papillote Press, 75 pp, ISBN 9780993108679)<br />

Paintings can sometimes speak words; poems will occasionally offer vistas. These<br />

aren’t contradictions, but conclusions that St Vincent-born, Barbados-based Philip<br />

Nanton’s new hybrid art-verse book, Canouan Suite and Other Pieces, attempts<br />

to make plain. Nanton offers poems <strong>—</strong> some rollicking, others contemplative<br />

<strong>—</strong> alongside visual pieces from artists who are either <strong>Caribbean</strong>, or closely<br />

affiliated with <strong>Caribbean</strong> spaces. These poems immerse themselves playfully and<br />

poignantly in cricket, neo-colonisation, and the bewildering, bodacious beauty<br />

of Barbados itself.<br />

What strikes the reader reassuringly is how firmly in the local soil these poems<br />

are grown. In “Night Cricket at Carlton Club, Barbados”, “bats are twirled; leather<br />

hits wood; runs, like souls, are sometimes saved. People erupt from their seats,<br />

shout, sit down, mutter. Glove knocks glove.” Nanton compels his audience with<br />

images plucked straight from the greenery, chaos, and market-stalls of <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />

living, whether he turns his attention to a topsy-turvy police station or a troupe<br />

of outlandishly named minibuses.<br />

In “Canouan Suite”, for which the book is named, the poet trains a sharply<br />

critical eye on the clutches of foreign investment in a small-island community. A<br />

chorus of voices populates the poem, from the bone-weary hotel worker to the<br />

cavalier, dispassionate outsider who calls the island “a pocket-handkerchief of a<br />

place.” The poem is a powerful admonition that lets its own characters speak; it<br />

highlights Nanton’s lyrical virtuosity without dampening his message.<br />

Canouan Suite and Other Pieces warns against the real dangers in calling any<br />

place, <strong>Caribbean</strong> or otherwise, a “paradise.” Despite this grave counsel, the book<br />

opens itself to wonder at every turn, proving that when easy labels are discarded,<br />

the deepest cistern of an island’s heart spills over.<br />

The Yard, by Aliyyah Eniath (Speaking Tiger<br />

Books, 272 pp, ISBN 9789385755088)<br />

If the closeness of one<br />

nuclear family stirs up<br />

confusion in the domestic<br />

cauldron of everyday living,<br />

how much worse is it when<br />

your neighbours on all sides<br />

are your blood relations,<br />

too? In Aliyyah Eniath’s<br />

fiction debut, the intricacies<br />

and entanglements of<br />

“compound life” <strong>—</strong> many<br />

families in one unsegregated<br />

dwelling expanse <strong>—</strong> are<br />

scrutinised through the<br />

crosshairs of love, duty, and religious devotion. Orphaned<br />

Behrooz and privileged Maya form a bond reminiscent of<br />

literature’s finest and most thwarted of beloveds. The<br />

Yard lifts a veil on Indo-Muslim Trinidad: its customs,<br />

ceremonies, and concerns are sensitively penned and<br />

elegantly conveyed. Written with the joviality of a<br />

comedy of errors, yet underpinned by wry commentary<br />

on society’s need for speculation, this first novel shines<br />

with promise.<br />

The Taxidermist’s Cut, by Rajiv Mohabir (Four<br />

Way Books, 112 pp, ISBN 9781935536727)<br />

In one of the poems of this first<br />

collection, a speaker confesses:<br />

“I admit failure to a friend: I<br />

have never spelled love with<br />

another in the tangle of my<br />

own limbs.” Rajiv Mohabir, who<br />

traces his immediate ancestry to<br />

Guyana, writes with boundless<br />

appetite about the new New<br />

World of Indo-<strong>Caribbean</strong><br />

identities. These poems do<br />

not claim fearlessness: they<br />

siphon audacious admissions<br />

and erotic offerings from the very maw of fear itself.<br />

Contending with anti-queer, anti-immigrant, antibrown<br />

judgements, they explode into bhajans and bass<br />

rhymes of verse. The speakers in them are often restless,<br />

distanced from their natal beginnings and curious about<br />

their shifting postal addresses. It is this curiosity, this<br />

desire to claim names from the erasure and indemnity of<br />

East Indian indentureship in the West Indies, which gives<br />

this extraordinary debut its wings.<br />

28 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


Michael Manley: The Biography, by Godfrey<br />

Smith (Ian Randle Publishers, 458 pp, ISBN<br />

9789766379223)<br />

Statesman par excellence;<br />

passionate public official<br />

and private man; egalitarian<br />

trade unionist; prolific author;<br />

all-around dynamo: twenty<br />

years after his death, Michael<br />

Manley remains one of the most<br />

compelling figures in <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />

political life, past or present. In<br />

this new biography, Godfrey<br />

Smith takes a sequential, probing<br />

approach to documenting<br />

Manley’s life as Jamaican prime<br />

minister and policy maker. What sets Smith’s consummately<br />

readable biography apart is its undaunted willingness to<br />

tell the full truth of one remarkable man’s orbit. Everything<br />

from a string of marriages to pioneering economic reform<br />

is weighted, addressed, and assessed as valuable material<br />

for the reader’s reflection. Many accounts of Manley<br />

position him beyond the reach of everyday Jamaicans: this<br />

unassumingly titled book brings a humanising light to its<br />

often-inscrutable subject, stripping the titan of any one,<br />

easy signification.<br />

A Handbook of Trinidad Cookery 1907,<br />

edited by Danielle Delon (Cassique Publications,<br />

156 pp, ISBN 9789769541559)<br />

Mrs Ross’s Spanish Custard and<br />

Miss Doyle’s Callaloo: these<br />

sound like your auntie’s timehonoured,<br />

jealously guarded<br />

family recipes, but they’re<br />

actually two of the culinary<br />

contributions in A Handbook<br />

of Trinidad Cookery 1907.<br />

Danielle Delon has dusted off<br />

the original 1907 compilation<br />

of this kitchen handbook, and<br />

faithfully repurposed it for any<br />

contemporary chef with an interest in <strong>Caribbean</strong> cuisine.<br />

The book is illuminatory not only as a cookery guide, but<br />

as a historic passport to the conventions of French Creole<br />

and British immigrant householders, who adapted their<br />

palates to the particular mélange of verdure, wild game,<br />

and seasonings available at the time. Even its outdated<br />

recipes offer clues to the way Trinidad’s kitchens, and by<br />

extension Trinidad’s domestic spheres, once operated:<br />

every concoction and confection within these pages is<br />

worth its weight in sugar and spice.<br />

Reviews by Shivanee Ramlochan, Bookshelf editor<br />

WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 29


playlist<br />

Bright Eyes Victor Provost (Paquito Records)<br />

Virgin Island steelpan jazz<br />

virtuoso Victor Provost sets<br />

an optimistic tone with his<br />

second album, Bright Eyes,<br />

capturing the influence of<br />

the <strong>Caribbean</strong> more so than<br />

on his debut album two<br />

years ago. Bebop swagger<br />

gives way to a progressive<br />

jazz world fusion while still<br />

maintaining a deft touch that allows the tenor pan to<br />

ring true. On the eleven tunes on this album, Provost<br />

runs through a gamut of styles and select composers, to<br />

give the steelpan a context outside its calypso base. The<br />

obligatory homage to calypso legend Lord Kitchener is<br />

included <strong>—</strong> “Pan in Harmony” <strong>—</strong> but this album reflects<br />

Provost’s recent apprenticeship with Cuban saxophonist<br />

Paquito D’Rivera and his wider exploration of improvised<br />

tropical music. Mazurka, baião, calypso, and funky<br />

Afro-Cuban jazz all have a presence here. Guest soloists<br />

<strong>—</strong> including the aforementioned D’Rivera, alongside<br />

Etienne Charles and Ron Blake, to name a few <strong>—</strong> flavour<br />

this <strong>Caribbean</strong> jazz gumbo which swings with enough<br />

intensity to keep your attention.<br />

Elemental Ruth Osman (self-released)<br />

Trinidad-based Guyanese<br />

singer-songwriter Ruth<br />

Osman is a poet disguised as a<br />

songbird. Not so much a poet<br />

in the Dylanesque Nobel Prize<br />

echelon, but from the milieu<br />

of <strong>Caribbean</strong> poets who use<br />

metaphor and emotional<br />

narrative to imbue a sense<br />

of order into our scattered<br />

lives. The bookend opening and closing interludes of this<br />

ten-song album showcase her talent as poet who moves<br />

beyond mere lyricism. “Someone must, on bended knee /<br />

Mourn the death of a star and sing another into being.”<br />

The intervening eight songs showcase a singer who holds<br />

a tune with an elastic multi-octave voice that echoes a<br />

girlish timbre in contrast to the adult themes. Elemental,<br />

Osman’s second album, succeeds in its simple setting,<br />

where her debut wallowed in vapid excess, hiding the<br />

richness of her voice that makes her lyrics ring. With cover<br />

songs by Marley, Jobim, and Andre Tanker, this album also<br />

focuses Osman’s neo-folk <strong>Caribbean</strong> aesthetic accurately<br />

towards accomplishment and elation.<br />

30 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


Single Spotlight<br />

No One Tano & Kalpee (self-released)<br />

Right off the bat, on their new<br />

single “No One”, Trinidadian<br />

producer Michael Montano<br />

and singer Christian Kalpee<br />

introduce an earworm that<br />

has been a hallmark of much<br />

popular hit music in 2016:<br />

the flutelike squiggle called<br />

the “dolphin.” EDM superproducers<br />

Skrillex and Diplo<br />

created this motif in the song “Where Are Ü Now”,<br />

where singer Justin Bieber’s “vocals are pinched into a<br />

dolphin call” at that song’s drop, using various distortion<br />

and equalisation effects. Tano & Kalpee have recreated<br />

this riff to maximum effect, making this laidback dance<br />

groove a choice between a regretful post-breakup<br />

song that successfully reflects a tropical house genre<br />

definition, or a lame imitation of a played-out hook.<br />

The former seems apt in this case, as Kalpee’s voice gives<br />

favour to a lyric and melody which signal a confident<br />

approach to hit songwriting and production that has<br />

global appeal. Our <strong>Caribbean</strong> reputation as dance music<br />

adventurers sustains here.<br />

Fete You R City (Precision Productions)<br />

Brothers Timothy and Theron<br />

Thomas (R City) of St Thomas<br />

in the US Virgin Islands are<br />

working with Trinidadian<br />

producer Kasey Phillips<br />

(Precision Productions) on a<br />

number of songs that point<br />

to a new direction in island<br />

music, where the modern<br />

R&B influences are subtle<br />

enough not to obscure the <strong>Caribbean</strong> musical accent,<br />

but still distinctive. The opening synth chord progression<br />

signals a pulse that will make couples get closer on the<br />

dance floor, while the vocals overlaid hint at something<br />

provocative: “I just want to fete you / From night ’til a<br />

morning / I know that you want it.” Once the song gets<br />

grooving its zouk-flavoured backbeat and soca phrasing,<br />

the double entendre becomes clear. “Fete You” is a<br />

sexy demand for something more than a party. This is<br />

hedonism with a capital “F.” It’s also a catchy tune that<br />

works by supplying a wider <strong>Caribbean</strong> palette for soca<br />

to evolve.<br />

Reviews by Nigel A. Campbell<br />

WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 31


SCREENSHOTS<br />

Site of Sites<br />

Directed by Natalia Cabral and Oriol Estrada, 2016,<br />

61 minutes<br />

A pair of coconut trees frames a beach at sunrise, waves<br />

lapping against the sand. This is no clichéd <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />

image, however: a wide, rutted ditch running into the sea<br />

points to disruptive human activity, which is reinforced by<br />

the piece of industrial equipment<br />

sitting off to the right. A man walks<br />

into the shot, up to the machine<br />

and switches it on. A puff of<br />

black smoke belches out, and the<br />

thrumming of the engine disturbs<br />

the dawn.<br />

So opens Site of Sites, the new<br />

documentary by Natalia Cabral<br />

and Oriol Estrada of the Dominican<br />

Republic. It furthers the direct<br />

approach to the non-fiction form that was so effectively<br />

on display in the duo’s debut, You and Me, a portrait of<br />

the relationship between a maid and her mistress. Site of<br />

Sites continues to probe themes explored in You and Me <strong>—</strong><br />

race, power, economics <strong>—</strong> but on a broader scale, even as it<br />

maintains that film’s equanimity and empathy.<br />

Site of Sites is set almost entirely within the confines of<br />

an upscale housing development somewhere in the DR.<br />

Precisely framed static shots <strong>—</strong> the camera never moves<br />

<strong>—</strong> showing the (invariably) black people employed as<br />

gardeners, domestics, and labourers, are interspersed with<br />

scenes showing the (invariably) white people who employ<br />

them relaxing in swimming pools, playing golf, and having<br />

barbecues. Conversation is largely<br />

desultory; people are simply living<br />

their lives.<br />

The cumulative result is a<br />

sobering rendering of black and<br />

white, poverty and wealth, work<br />

and play, a social dynamic little<br />

altered since it came into being<br />

centuries ago. (And, the film<br />

suggests, with little chance of<br />

being altered.) Site of Sites is<br />

exemplary of what can be done with little more than a<br />

camera in one’s hand and an idea in one’s head: politically<br />

committed and formally rigorous filmmaking of a very<br />

high order.<br />

For more information, visit faulafilms.com<br />

Green & Yellow<br />

Directed by Miquel Galofré, 2016, 19 minutes<br />

For a decade now,<br />

Barcelona-born, Trinidadand-Tobago–based<br />

filmmaker Miquel<br />

Galofré has been making<br />

acclaimed documentaries<br />

in the <strong>Caribbean</strong>.<br />

Whether they’re about<br />

prisoners creating music (Songs of Redemption) or atrisk<br />

children discovering the transformative power of<br />

art (Art Connect), Galofré’s films are characterised by<br />

their boundless empathy for the marginalised lives they<br />

celebrate, as well as their unforced optimism.<br />

His latest film, Green & Yellow, is a work of disarming<br />

and devastating simplicity. Shot on the streets of<br />

Port of Spain, it contains the interwoven, direct-tocamera<br />

testimonies of two homeless men, Sheldon<br />

“Sketch” Aberdeen and Shawn “Yankee” Brown, both<br />

crack cocaine users. There is no music score, and the<br />

cinematography is in stark black and white <strong>—</strong> until the<br />

closing moments, when the colours of the film’s title<br />

saturate the screen. The running time of Green & Yellow<br />

is just under twenty minutes; its power will remain with<br />

you for much longer than that.<br />

For more information, visit trinidadandtobagorocks.<br />

com<br />

I Am a Politician<br />

Directed by Javier Colón Ríos, 2016, 90 minutes<br />

Some explanatory<br />

text at the beginning<br />

of I Am a Politician<br />

declares this satire to<br />

be “almost a work of<br />

fiction” <strong>—</strong> which, given<br />

what follows, makes it<br />

a depressing reminder that we now live in the time of<br />

President Trump. Javier Colón Ríos’s follow-up to I Am<br />

a Director, his comic debut, I Am a Politician tracks the<br />

follies of Carlos (Carlos <strong>March</strong>and), an ex-convict seeking<br />

to become governor of Puerto Rico.<br />

Colón Ríos’s satire is light, sometimes even slight. Not<br />

all his gags work: for example, a joke involving Carlos<br />

“coming out” to his mother as a member of a political<br />

party different from hers feels forced. And some nuances<br />

may be lost on those not conversant with Puerto Rico’s<br />

unique political system. That said, the story of a boorish<br />

narcissist, opportunistically hopping from one political<br />

party to another, is one with which most people can no<br />

doubt identify.<br />

For more information, visit facebook.com/<br />

yosoyunpolitico<br />

Reviews by Jonathan Ali<br />

32 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


cookup<br />

A compendium of<br />

curry<br />

It’s one of the outstanding flavours of the <strong>Caribbean</strong>,<br />

enjoyed in everything from Jamaican curry goat to<br />

Trinidadian doubles. But where can you find the<br />

region’s best curries, and how is the cuisine changing?<br />

Franka Philip finds out<br />

Illustration by Shalini Seereeram<br />

One of my most mind-blowing<br />

food experiences ever was years<br />

ago at an Indian restaurant in<br />

Southall, West London. It was<br />

the first time I tried Indian food<br />

in Britain, and I wasn’t prepared<br />

for the depth of flavour the chefs at Madhu’s served<br />

up that Saturday afternoon.<br />

The korma and jalfrezi were far more complex<br />

than Trinidad curry <strong>—</strong> the taste defined by the<br />

Turban or Chief curry powder used religiously at<br />

home. Some of the flavours I had that afternoon<br />

took a bit of getting used to, but after that, I was<br />

game for trying more of the great spread of curries<br />

available in the UK.<br />

Most Indo-<strong>Caribbean</strong> people can trace their<br />

origins to the Subcontinent’s northern region<br />

of Uttar Pradesh. Indians started arriving in<br />

the <strong>Caribbean</strong> in the mid nineteenth century as<br />

replacement labour for enslaved Africans after<br />

Emancipation. However, because of the strictures<br />

of indentureship and the unavailability of some<br />

spices and herbs, Indo-<strong>Caribbean</strong> cuisine retained<br />

some traditional elements while also, over time,<br />

evolving into a style of its own.<br />

“There are hundreds of curries all around<br />

the world,” says scientist and curry gourmand<br />

Brian Singh. “Our curries tend to be heavy on<br />

turmeric and garam masala.” In other cultures,<br />

curries incorporate ingredients like coconut<br />

milk, lemongrass, and different chillies. Singh<br />

points to Malaysia, where curries typically<br />

use tamarind and shrimp paste. A Trinidadian<br />

based in Vanuatu, in the Pacific, Singh does have<br />

many plaudits for the curries of the <strong>Caribbean</strong>.<br />

“Jamaican goat curry is brilliant,” he says. “They<br />

use a lot of warm spices which go well with the<br />

gaminess of the goat.”<br />

Around the world, Jamaican goat curry, like<br />

jerk chicken, has become synonymous with<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> cuisine. In the UK, for example,<br />

festivals like Notting Hill Carnival are also a<br />

showcase for <strong>Caribbean</strong> food. It’s not unusual for<br />

revellers and spectators to eat thousands of plates<br />

of the sumptuous delicacies at food stalls along the<br />

parade route.<br />

The toughest parts of the goat are used for this<br />

recipe: they are seasoned and left overnight to<br />

marinate, then cooked low and slow to achieve<br />

a fall-off-the-bone tenderness. Well-travelled<br />

34 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 35


Trinidadian journalist Wesley Gibbings also gives<br />

Jamaican goat curry the thumbs up. “They prepare<br />

a luscious dish that is hardly uniform across the<br />

island, but all equally delicious. Contrary to some<br />

belief, the Jamaicans have a heavy hand with<br />

the spices and pepper, so don’t fool yourself into<br />

believing that extra spicy is anything near our light<br />

version of pepper.”<br />

Gibbings believes that, as far as the rest of<br />

the <strong>Caribbean</strong> goes, you’re likely to get the best<br />

curry in Trinidad, Guyana, and Suriname. “I can’t<br />

think of another place where I have had a curry<br />

duck and paratha that match Trini style the way<br />

the Surinamese prepare it. It is just the right mix<br />

of spice and the earthy flavour that makes curry<br />

stand apart from other ways of preparing meat and<br />

vegetable dishes.”<br />

Gibbings is less impressed with curry in other<br />

parts of the <strong>Caribbean</strong>. “The Eastern <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />

islands do not yet understand the concept of<br />

curry,” he says, “except where Trinis or Guyanese<br />

have set up shop. In Antigua you get a good balance<br />

between the two styles, but in St Lucia, except for<br />

the guy who set up shop near Rodney Bay recently,<br />

we may conclude that the idea of what constitutes<br />

a good curry meal is a rather vague one.<br />

“In Sint Maarten,” Gibbings adds, “the Guyanese<br />

there have made sure you enjoy fairly authentic<br />

stuff, but don’t hold your breath in Barbados,<br />

where there is an arguably equal share of Trini and<br />

Guyanese influences. Perhaps the good stuff is in<br />

the homes of such expats.”<br />

And what is the future for <strong>Caribbean</strong> curry?<br />

Both Singh and Gibbings believe that<br />

there’s a lot of potential, especially with the<br />

growth of street food as a big attraction for foodies<br />

everywhere. Trinidad’s doubles <strong>—</strong> a delicacy made<br />

with curried chickpeas and two flatbreads called<br />

barras <strong>—</strong> is already practically a national dish. There<br />

have been several recent experiments with doubles,<br />

like gourmet versions where different kinds of meat<br />

are added. There’s also been an attempt to combine<br />

Chinese and Indian elements in a delicacy called<br />

“chubbles.” Rather than barras, Chinese pancakes<br />

are used. Beyond the novelty factor, “chubbles” was<br />

a short-lived experiment, as the creators never quite<br />

got the flavour balance right.<br />

Singh feels the “chubbles” experiment is<br />

a natural progression, “an expression of our<br />

cosmopolitanism.” Gibbings meanwhile has a few<br />

tips for chefs about how to take curry forward. “I<br />

would say the added coconut of Tobagonian fare is<br />

the right way to go, and cooks should ease up a bit<br />

Because of the unavailability of some<br />

spices and herbs, Indo-<strong>Caribbean</strong> cuisine<br />

retained some traditional elements while<br />

also evolving into a style of its own<br />

on the chadon beni” <strong>—</strong> a herb similar to coriander<br />

or cilantro, widely used in Trinidadian cooking <strong>—</strong><br />

“and other green seasoning. I think the overuse of<br />

pepper has its fans, but I am not one, since I just<br />

love to have the curry taste mixed in with lightly<br />

seasoned goat or duck linger for some time after I<br />

have swallowed the last mouthful.”<br />

And Singh believes chefs must become more<br />

innovative. “We have to take the basic tenets of<br />

the cuisine, build, and innovate. We don’t have that<br />

much high-end curry in the region, and with a bit of<br />

passion, a lot can be achieved. Maybe chefs could<br />

try using different condiments,” Singh suggests.<br />

“In India, chefs use pickles to get a balance of<br />

hot, sour, sweet, and salty. Like a good symphony,<br />

curry is a beautiful mixture of flavours.” n<br />

Surinamese curried chicken<br />

Ingredients:<br />

1 whole chicken, cut in small pieces<br />

5 cloves garlic, chopped<br />

½ onion, sliced<br />

1 tomato or 1 tsp tomato paste<br />

3 tsp curry or masala powder<br />

2 bouillon cubes<br />

black pepper<br />

salt<br />

1 tbs parsley or celery, finely chopped<br />

1 fresh pepper (optional)<br />

3 tbs oil<br />

1 cup water<br />

Rinse the chicken and drain. Heat the oil and add the onion and garlic. Stir<br />

frequently, adding the tomato, bouillon cubes, curry powder, and fresh<br />

pepper. Mix thoroughly until tomato is almost dissolved. Add the chicken<br />

and turn over to cover with curry mix. Add some black pepper and salt if<br />

necessary. Lower temperature and cover the pan, cooking the chicken for<br />

about 10 minutes before turning it over.<br />

The chicken should produce its own liquid. If not, add 1/2 cup of water<br />

and let it simmer uncovered for another 10 minutes. When the meat is<br />

done (30 to 45 minutes), turn off the heat and sprinkle the parsley or celery<br />

on the chicken. Curried chicken is served with roti, vegetables, and curried<br />

potatoes. You can also eat it with steamed rice.<br />

From multiculticooking.com<br />

36 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


Immerse<br />

Euzhan Palcy in 1992 <strong>—</strong> an alternate photo from the shoot that produced our first cover, twenty-five years ago<br />

Bettmann / getty images


For twenty-five years, <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> has celebrated the best and<br />

brightest of <strong>Caribbean</strong> culture and people <strong>—</strong> as you can see in the<br />

panorama of our 144 covers, and the stories behind them<br />

In early 1992, passengers boarding BWIA planes across<br />

the <strong>Caribbean</strong>, South and North America, and Europe<br />

found something new in their seat-pockets: a magazine<br />

by the name of <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong>, with the watchful face of a<br />

Martiniquan filmmaker on the cover.<br />

As those early readers turned the magazine’s pages,<br />

they discovered a profile of director Euzhan Palcy, a memoir by<br />

Trinidad-born broadcaster Trevor McDonald, and previews of<br />

the <strong>Caribbean</strong>’s yearlong Carnival calendar and the upcoming<br />

Carifesta arts festival. They found articles on Tobago Sailing<br />

Week and a fashion portfolio by some leading <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />

designers, alongside a thoughtful essay on the state of West Indies<br />

cricket and a business report on trade liberalisation across the<br />

region. So the key ingredients were all there at the very beginning:<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> arts and culture, travel and current affairs, explored<br />

from a <strong>Caribbean</strong> perspective, with a <strong>Caribbean</strong> audience in mind.<br />

Twenty-five years later, so many things have changed.<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong>’s airline partner, for example: we’re now the<br />

official inflight magazine of <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines, celebrating its<br />

own tenth anniversary in <strong>2017</strong>. The masthead design is different.<br />

Originally published quarterly, the magazine has appeared<br />

bimonthly since late 1995. Nowadays, our editorial and<br />

production process is completely digital: it’s been many years<br />

since a writer filed copy via fax, or a photographer turned up<br />

with a case of film slides. And the <strong>Caribbean</strong> region has changed<br />

too, in countless ways <strong>—</strong> social, cultural, political.<br />

But some things haven’t changed much at all. <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />

is still published from the same small office space in Port of<br />

Spain <strong>—</strong> we prefer to think of it as cosy, rather than cramped<br />

<strong>—</strong> and by a tiny editorial team. (Most of the current editorial<br />

staff were schoolchildren back in 1992.) Some of the writers,<br />

photographers, and illustrators whose work appeared in our<br />

first issues a quarter-century ago are still regular contributors,<br />

alongside dozens of others in the bank of talent we’ve built up<br />

over the years.<br />

And the contents of the magazine, the words and images<br />

that fill our pages, still hold to <strong>Caribbean</strong>’s <strong>Beat</strong>’s original brief:<br />

to explore and portray the <strong>Caribbean</strong> as it really is, rich in<br />

complexities and contradictions, and to celebrate the best and<br />

most brilliant of our people and our culture.<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> has never been a typical inflight magazine <strong>—</strong><br />

and that’s to the credit of <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines (and BWIA before<br />

them). Of course, we’ve covered <strong>Caribbean</strong> travel from the very<br />

beginning, including the beaches, resorts, and festivals that the<br />

region is best known for. But we know the <strong>Caribbean</strong> is much more<br />

than that: it’s our writers and artists, our scientists and inventors,<br />

our sportsmen and -women, philanthropists and thinkers.<br />

The <strong>Caribbean</strong> is coconut trees and deckchairs, of course, but<br />

it’s also skyscrapers and high-tech concert halls, universities and<br />

cricket grounds. It’s Jamaica’s lushly forested Cockpit Country<br />

and the “blue holes” of Andros in the Bahamas, the stark<br />

desertscape of the arid ABC islands and the vast savannahs of<br />

Guyana. It’s ruined Mayan pyramids in the jungle of Belize and<br />

the Hindu Temple in the Sea in Trinidad.<br />

Like the airline that connects the far-flung peoples of the<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> region, with our many languages and ethnicities,<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> brings together in its pages the diversity of<br />

elements that makes our part of the world so fascinating<br />

and bewildering. The energy, creativity, and diversity of the<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong>, formed in the crucible of our history, make us unique.<br />

Looking back over the past twenty-five years, we realise how<br />

aptly those qualities are represented in the 144 covers we’ve<br />

published <strong>—</strong> as you can see for yourself in the following pages.<br />

Here are landscapes familiar and unexpected, the colour and<br />

spectacle of festivals, flora, and fauna, the work of artists, the<br />

gestures of performance, and above all the faces of <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />

people, famous or not, reflecting our sheer variousness. So we’ve<br />

taken the opportunity of this milestone to revisit the stories<br />

behind some of those cover images. Why did we choose those<br />

images back then, and what’s happened to their subjects in the<br />

intervening years?<br />

For this telling panorama, and for <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong>’s huge<br />

(and we think valuable) archive of stories and images,<br />

we thank the hundreds of writers, photographers, and<br />

artists we’ve worked with over the years. The life of a<br />

magazine, behind the scenes, is replete with small thrills, the occasional<br />

crisis, and an unending series of deadlines. Generations of<br />

editorial, sales, and production staff have known that the magazine<br />

is only as good as its next issue <strong>—</strong> and have worked with dedication<br />

and imagination to earn <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> its reputation as<br />

one of the region’s best-informed, best-written, and best-looking<br />

magazines. (For the latter, we owe special thanks to Russell Halfhide,<br />

<strong>Beat</strong>’s designer from 1992 to 2007, who gave the magazine<br />

its elegant, approachable style at the very beginning.) We’re grateful<br />

for <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines’ consistent support, and their belief in<br />

the value of a magazine that looks beyond the stereotypes to the<br />

real heart of our people and culture. And, of course, we also owe<br />

thanks to you, our readers <strong>—</strong> for your encouragement, suggestions,<br />

and even your criticism, which have helped shape our sense<br />

of the magazine’s mission.<br />

We hope you share our pride in reaching this anniversary<br />

<strong>—</strong> which we commemorate, above all, by simply doing the<br />

thing we’ve done for the past quarter-century: imagining what’s<br />

possible for the next issue, and the ones after that, and then<br />

racing after the deadlines.<br />

Nicholas Laughlin, Editor<br />

38 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 39


The very first <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> cover featured not a palm-fringed shore, nor a dazzling Carnival<br />

costume, nor a colourful tropical bird <strong>—</strong> those were all still to come <strong>—</strong> but a portrait of the<br />

filmmaker Euzhan Palcy. That cover was a declaration that the new magazine would pay<br />

serious attention to the <strong>Caribbean</strong>’s arts and culture, and our region’s extraordinary creative<br />

and intellectual talent. Writing in our 75th issue, back in September/October 2005, <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />

<strong>Beat</strong>’s founding editor Jeremy Taylor explained why this photo of Palcy “set the agenda”:<br />

1 • Martiniquan film<br />

director Euzhan Palcy<br />

Spring 1992<br />

Photo by Ph. Giraud/Sygma<br />

I still have a soft spot for the very first cover<br />

we published, back in January 1992.<br />

Looking back at it now, it’s hard to see<br />

why. The tones are grey, the subject is stiff<br />

and formal, and there’s a dated feel to the<br />

image. The photo is not even by a <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />

photographer (in 1992 we could not afford to<br />

commission a cover image, and had to make<br />

do with a studio PR photo).<br />

Since 1992, many of our covers have<br />

been more colourful, more appealing, more<br />

popular. There have been beaches and boats,<br />

beautiful people, landscapes and seascapes,<br />

sports heroes, singers, musicians, Carnival<br />

people, striking graphics and paintings. I like<br />

them all, and feel proud of many of them. Yet<br />

that very first cover somehow managed to<br />

announce what <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> was going to<br />

be all about.<br />

Hardly anyone recognised Palcy. Few<br />

people had seen her brilliant movie Rue Cases<br />

Nègres (Sugar Cane Alley), though it’s a classic<br />

of the independent film world. Nobody<br />

associated her with the 1989 MGM release<br />

A Dry White Season, where she directed<br />

Donald Sutherland, Susan Sarandon, and<br />

Marlon Brando (who appeared free, because<br />

he liked what she was doing). Nobody knew<br />

this was a woman who had Robert Redford<br />

and François Truffaut as professional<br />

“godfathers.”<br />

Why (that cover asked) is <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />

filmmaking not taken seriously? Why do<br />

we think of the <strong>Caribbean</strong> as a romantic<br />

backdrop for other people’s movies, not for<br />

making our own?<br />

We saw Euzhan Palcy as a formidable<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> woman who had broken through<br />

ethnic and gender stereotypes into a<br />

notoriously difficult industry and had<br />

produced some powerful work. She was<br />

interested in making <strong>Caribbean</strong> films, not<br />

perpetuating <strong>Caribbean</strong> stereotypes. It<br />

was exactly the sort of achievement that<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> wanted to discover and<br />

celebrate.<br />

So that very first <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> cover<br />

did not depict a wonderful golden beach, or<br />

a sunset, or a luxurious villa. It made the<br />

statement that the <strong>Caribbean</strong> is more than its<br />

beaches, more than rum punch and partying,<br />

wonderful and liberating though those<br />

pleasures are. The <strong>Caribbean</strong> is not just a<br />

romantic backdrop: it has successes and<br />

achievements of its own, world-class people<br />

in sport and science, music and business,<br />

writing and the visual arts. And we wanted<br />

our readers to know about them too.<br />

Since then . . .<br />

When Euzhan Palcy appeared on the cover<br />

of our Spring 1992 issue, she was already,<br />

at the age of thirty-four, recognised as an<br />

icon of <strong>Caribbean</strong> filmmaking. Her 1983<br />

debut, Rue Cases Nègres (adapted from<br />

Alfred Zobel’s novel), had earned her a<br />

César Award <strong>—</strong> the French equivalent of an<br />

Oscar <strong>—</strong> and a Silver Lion at the Venice Film<br />

Festival, plus a dozen other international<br />

awards. The screenplay <strong>—</strong> which she started<br />

while still a film student in Paris <strong>—</strong> had won<br />

the admiration of famed French director<br />

François Truffaut, and Aimé Césaire, the<br />

celebrated Martiniquan poet and mayor<br />

of Fort-de-France, had helped secure the<br />

production budget. Rue Cases Nègres was a<br />

rare example of a film almost immediately<br />

recognised as a classic.<br />

Despite this early success, Palcy’s second<br />

project was six years in the making.<br />

The subject she’d set her heart on <strong>—</strong> an<br />

adaptation of South African writer André<br />

Brink’s anti-apartheid novel A Dry White<br />

Season <strong>—</strong> proved difficult to raise financial<br />

support for. Still, Palcy was determined to<br />

make a politically hard-hitting film. She<br />

even travelled to South Africa, pretending<br />

continued on page 42<br />

40 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


“I will never compromise in a<br />

way that distorts history,” says<br />

Euzhan Palcy<br />

Thierry van biesen<br />

WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 41


courtesy euzhanpalcy.net<br />

Still from Rue Cases Nègres<br />

to be a musician, to research conditions in<br />

Soweto. It took some hard lobbying and<br />

an unshakeable faith in her creative vision,<br />

but she succeeded, securing the juggernaut<br />

MGM as producer. A Dry White Season made<br />

Palcy the first black woman filmmaker to be<br />

produced by a major Hollywood studio, and<br />

won another slew of awards, including an<br />

Oscar nomination for star Marlon Brando.<br />

The film’s success inevitably brought<br />

offers, from Hollywood and elsewhere, to<br />

work on more “commercial” projects. But<br />

Palcy’s sense of political commitment and<br />

her resolution to follow her own creative<br />

instincts led her, over the years, to turn<br />

down many such “opportunities.” “People<br />

think, Oh where is she?” Palcy said in a<br />

2015 interview. “She did those movies and<br />

she disappeared.” In fact, she’s created a<br />

solid body of work that speaks to the range<br />

of her concerns, from the culture of her<br />

native Martinique to questions of social<br />

justice around the world.<br />

The lighthearted Simeon (1992), set in<br />

Martinique and France, tells the tale of<br />

zouk music and its impact on the world.<br />

Palcy has also made a documentary<br />

about Césaire <strong>—</strong> hero of the Négritude<br />

movement, and her own mentor <strong>—</strong> and<br />

another about the young men and women<br />

of Martinique who fled the island to<br />

join the Free French army during the<br />

Second World War. The biographical Ruby<br />

Bridges (1998), produced by Disney, is a<br />

profile in courage from the US Civil Rights<br />

Movement: the story of a six-year-old girl<br />

who was the first African-American child<br />

to desegregate an all-white school in New<br />

Orleans. It was followed by The Killing Yard<br />

(2001), about the infamous 1971 Attica<br />

prison riot and its effect on the struggle for<br />

prison rights in the United States.<br />

And Palcy’s magnum opus may be yet<br />

to come. For over twenty years, she’s been<br />

working on a feature film about Haitian<br />

revolutionary hero Toussaint L’Ouverture.<br />

More than two centuries after the Haitian<br />

revolution, Toussaint remains a figure both<br />

inspiring and deeply controversial, and<br />

Palcy is determined to tell his story her<br />

way. No surprise, then, that there’ve been<br />

setbacks and numerous delays. “I will never<br />

compromise in a way that distorts history or<br />

hurts my project,” she says. It’s an ethos her<br />

successors in the <strong>Caribbean</strong> film industry<br />

can learn from <strong>—</strong> as much as from her<br />

indelible films.<br />

5 • Greeting the sun<br />

Spring 1993<br />

Photo by Steve Cohn<br />

6 • A blue horizon<br />

Summer 1993<br />

Photo by Darrell Jones<br />

7 • Drop anchor<br />

Autumn 1993<br />

Photo by Edmund Nägele<br />

8 • Crystal plays pan<br />

Winter 1993/4<br />

Photo by David Ross<br />

42 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


2 • Ariane rocket lifts off<br />

from French Guiana<br />

Summer 1992<br />

Photo courtesy Arianespace<br />

A <strong>Caribbean</strong> rocket<br />

launch? Yes: since 1971 the<br />

Centre Spatial Guyanais<br />

in Kourou, French Guiana,<br />

has been the major<br />

launching site for the<br />

European space agency,<br />

thanks to its location near<br />

the equator <strong>—</strong> where<br />

the earth’s spin gives an<br />

extra nudge to departing<br />

rockets, allowing them to<br />

carry a heavier payload.<br />

3 • Trinidadian masman<br />

Peter Minshall<br />

Autumn 1992<br />

Photo by Maria Espeus<br />

4 • Fashion ensemble by<br />

Shirley de Cabral<br />

Winter 1992/3<br />

Photo by Harold Prieto<br />

David Rudder’s soulful portrait on the cover of our Spring 1994 issue introduced a profile by<br />

writer Debbie Jacob, who tackled the question of whether and how the popular Trinidadian<br />

singer would find an international “breakthrough.” Twenty-three years later, Jacob looks back<br />

at Rudder’s career in music:<br />

9 • Trinidadian calypsonian<br />

David Rudder<br />

Spring 1994<br />

Photo by Abigail Hadeed<br />

When David Rudder graced the cover of<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> in 1994, he’d already been<br />

a defining voice of Trinidad and Tobago<br />

Carnival for eight years. At that pivotal point<br />

of his musical career, calypso fans could look<br />

back on the bluesy, soulful soca singer from<br />

Charlie’s Roots who in 1986 became the first<br />

lead singer from a brass band to capture the<br />

national calypso monarch title with “The<br />

Hammer”, a tribute to the late, great pan<br />

arranger Rudolph Charles, and the “Bahia<br />

Girl” with her bouncy Baptist beat. In that<br />

moment, he had redefined the calypso stage<br />

in much the way the Mighty Sparrow did in<br />

Rudder is a performer who carved an<br />

original place in calypso history<br />

the 1950s, making it a daring display of rich,<br />

lyrical social commentary with an upbeat,<br />

jazzed-up, soca beat.<br />

By 1994, Rudder had penned “Rally<br />

’Round the West Indies”, which would<br />

become the theme song of the West Indies<br />

cricket team. He had songs featured in the<br />

Hollywood movie Wild Orchid. And the hits<br />

kept coming: “Haiti”, a lyrical lament for the<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> nation; “The Engine Room”, a<br />

tribute to the percussion side of a steelband;<br />

and “Calypso Music”, a joyful history of the<br />

art form. By 1995, he had become bolder<br />

and more political by offering the album The<br />

Lyrics Man, with his distinct brand of calypso<br />

rap, including stinging political irony in<br />

“Another Day in Paradise”.<br />

By 1998, Rudder had climbed to the<br />

pinnacle of success with the album Beloved.<br />

Projecting a strong sense of history, Rudder<br />

crossed musical boundaries and injected a<br />

sense of spirituality into Carnival with “High<br />

Mas”, a collision of puns that stretched from<br />

the Roman Catholic church’s sacred liturgies<br />

to the profane street theatre of Carnival. The<br />

celebratory experience of Trinidad culture<br />

culminated in the title song “Beloved”, a<br />

nostalgic look at the island’s soul-filled<br />

sense of community. The following year, he<br />

addressed the growing ethnic rift perceived<br />

by many people in politics and society with a<br />

calypso reminding Carnival revellers of their<br />

ethnic roots, represented by the rivers that<br />

define their history: “The Ganges and the<br />

Nile”.<br />

Rudder’s career took a new direction<br />

when he married and moved to Canada in<br />

2002. That experience would manifest itself<br />

the following year in “Trini to the Bone”,<br />

a celebration of those roots that ensure<br />

Rudder’s connection to Carnival and elevate<br />

him to the role of calypso ambassador.<br />

Distance has not eroded the legacy of his<br />

lasting voice: he’s destined to be remembered<br />

as a performer who carved an original place<br />

in calypso history.<br />

WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 43


10 • Casting a net<br />

Summer 1994<br />

Photo by Eleanor Chandler<br />

13 • Actress Renée Castle<br />

Spring 1995<br />

Photo by Sean Drakes<br />

11 • Purple honeycreeper<br />

Autumn 1994<br />

Photo by Roger Neckles<br />

Back in the 1990s, it seems,<br />

a colourful outfit of batik<br />

or handpainted fabric was<br />

de rigueur for well-dressed<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> women. In our<br />

first four and a half years of<br />

publication, no fewer than<br />

five cover images featured<br />

subjects in batik attire.<br />

12 • Trinidadian cricket legend<br />

Brian Lara<br />

Winter 1994/5<br />

Photo by Shaun Botterill/Allsport<br />

1994 was the year Brian<br />

Lara was popularly anointed<br />

“Prince of Port of Spain,” as<br />

in the space of two months<br />

he broke two major cricket<br />

records <strong>—</strong> most runs scored<br />

in a single Test innings and<br />

most runs ever in a first-class<br />

match <strong>—</strong> and entered the<br />

realm of legend. Profiling<br />

Lara in our Winter 1994/5<br />

issue <strong>—</strong> where he made the<br />

first of two <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />

cover appearances <strong>—</strong> B.C.<br />

Pires wrote: “The only real<br />

question . . . is how high and<br />

how far he can go.” Now,<br />

looking back more than two<br />

decades over one of the most<br />

illustrious sports careers of<br />

our times, Vaneisa Baksh<br />

explains what Lara meant for<br />

the game of cricket and his<br />

fans around the world:<br />

14 • Trinidadian Bharata<br />

Natyam dancer Shwetha Verma<br />

Summer 1995<br />

Photo by Sean Drakes<br />

15 • Barbadian windsurfing<br />

champion Brian Talma<br />

Autumn 1995<br />

Photo by D.W. Hollenbeck<br />

16 • The Jolly Roger<br />

cruising off Barbados<br />

November/December 1995<br />

Photo by Eleanor Chandler<br />

17 • Catching some rays<br />

January/February 1996<br />

Photo by Eleanor Chandler<br />

20 • Jetty view<br />

July/August 1996<br />

Photo by Roxan Kinas<br />

21 • Batik, sari-style<br />

September/October 1996<br />

Photo by Sonya Sanchez/Camera Art<br />

22 • Courland Bay, Tobago<br />

November/December 1996<br />

Photo by Mark Lyndersay<br />

23 • Songs of the Earth on Victoria<br />

Avenue<br />

January/February 1997<br />

Detail of painting by Brian Wong Won<br />

44 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


To be the holder of multiple<br />

world records <strong>—</strong> highest<br />

individual score in a Test<br />

(twice: 375 and 400), in<br />

first-class (501), runs in<br />

one Test over (28), and the<br />

only batsman in first class<br />

games to have scored one,<br />

two, three, four, and five<br />

centuries <strong>—</strong> is rightfully to<br />

be acknowledged as one<br />

of the greatest batsmen in<br />

cricket history.<br />

The impact of Brian<br />

Charles Lara’s personal<br />

achievements was amplified<br />

by the circumstances under<br />

which he accumulated<br />

them. From 1993, when he<br />

scored 277 and captured<br />

international attention,<br />

to his last West Indian<br />

appearance in 2007, he was<br />

part of a team on an unhappy<br />

trajectory towards cricket<br />

ignominy. West Indies<br />

supporters were regularly<br />

crushed by the unrelenting<br />

losses, but Lara gave them <strong>—</strong><br />

gave the world <strong>—</strong> something<br />

that sparkled beyond the<br />

gloom. On the field, he<br />

embodied greatness, and<br />

for West Indian societies,<br />

struggling with rampant<br />

mediocrity in leadership<br />

and politics that was<br />

manifest in weak economies,<br />

growing crime, and brazen<br />

corruption, he was a<br />

reminder of the magnificence<br />

that has periodically erupted<br />

in our history.<br />

Lara’s feats were<br />

celebrated worldwide, and<br />

West Indians were able to<br />

bask in that reflected glory.<br />

Bestowed with high honours<br />

<strong>—</strong> the Trinity Cross (as it was<br />

then known in Trinidad and<br />

Tobago), the Order of the<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> Community, the<br />

Order of Australia <strong>—</strong> he had<br />

a remarkable career that was<br />

dogged by difficulty, not least<br />

of which was the ongoing<br />

adversarial relationship<br />

between players and the<br />

West Indies Cricket Board.<br />

He was named captain of<br />

the West Indies team three<br />

times, and despite his super<br />

status as a batsman, could<br />

never claim to be a winning<br />

captain like Clive Lloyd or<br />

Viv Richards. Instead, he<br />

presided over a team with<br />

wildly fluctuating fortunes,<br />

where victories were few<br />

and embarrassments were<br />

many, though individual<br />

performances were often<br />

brilliant. But, in his time, he<br />

became one of the first of the<br />

breed of wealthy cricketers<br />

who brought business<br />

savvy to their dealings,<br />

and saw endorsements and<br />

sponsorships as a natural<br />

extension of their cricket<br />

incomes. That breed changed<br />

international cricket forever.<br />

In his retirement, apart<br />

from his event management<br />

business, he has become<br />

a global ambassador<br />

for cricket, travelling<br />

extensively, often alongside<br />

Sir Garry Sobers, who<br />

recently described him as<br />

“my dearest friend.” Lara,<br />

says Sobers, is doing very<br />

well. “Brian’s got his own<br />

agenda. He travels a lot<br />

and he does things all over<br />

the world. He does a lot for<br />

cricket. And he’s a nice boy.”<br />

18 • Guyana’s Kaieteur Falls<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 1996<br />

Photo by Mark Lyndersay<br />

24 • Trinidadian Penny Chow,<br />

Miss Universe 1977<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 1997<br />

Photo by Abigail Hadeed<br />

19 • Trinidadian sprinter<br />

Ato Boldon<br />

May/June 1996<br />

Photo by Gary M. Prior/Allsport<br />

Heading into the 1996 Summer Olympics in Atlanta,<br />

Trinidadian sprinter Ato Boldon seemed one of the<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong>’s best hopes for a medal. A year before, he’d<br />

won the 100-metre bronze at the World Championships<br />

in Gothenburg <strong>—</strong> at just twenty-one, the youngest athlete<br />

ever to medal in the sprint event. And, indeed, he did take<br />

home two medals from Atlanta <strong>—</strong> bronze in both the 100-<br />

and 200-metre races <strong>—</strong> though precious gold eluded him<br />

this time.<br />

That wasn’t the case the following year, when Boldon<br />

won the 200-metre World Championship gold in Athens,<br />

or in 1998, when he took the 100-metre gold at the<br />

Commonwealth Games in Kuala Lumpur, setting a stillunbeaten<br />

Commonwealth Games record of 9.88 seconds.<br />

A serious hamstring injury took him out of the 1999 World<br />

Championships, but hopes were high, nonetheless, for<br />

further Olympic glory at the 2000 games in Sydney. There, Boldon won the silver in<br />

the 100 metres, beaten by US sprinter Maurice Greene (and with Barbadian Obadele<br />

Thompson in third place), and the 200-metre bronze.<br />

That was to be his final Olympic medal <strong>—</strong> after a car accident in 2002, Boldon never<br />

again ran under ten seconds in the 100 metres or under twenty seconds in the 200. But his<br />

Olympic silver and three bronzes still place him in rare company: only three other male<br />

athletes have ever won as many or more Olympic individual event sprint medals. And in<br />

his post-competition life Boldon has turned his knowledge of the game and on-camera<br />

charisma into a thriving career as a television commentator <strong>—</strong> most recently, Sports<br />

Illustrated named him 2016’s best TV analyst for his coverage of the Rio Olympics.<br />

WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 45


When a dancing Machel Montano fronted the May/June 1997 <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> <strong>—</strong> his first of<br />

four cover appearances <strong>—</strong> he was just twenty-two years old, but already more than a decade<br />

into a musical career that would soon see him dominate the soca genre and Trinidad and<br />

Tobago’s Carnival. It’s no exaggeration to describe the past two decades of T&T music as the<br />

Age of Machel. Laura Dowrich explains why:<br />

25 • Trinidad soca legend<br />

Machel Montano<br />

May/June 1997<br />

Photo courtesy Delicious Vinyl<br />

Every year, a week before masqueraders<br />

take to the streets of Trinidad for the reign<br />

of the Merry Monarch, thousands pack into<br />

Port of Spain’s Hasely Crawford Stadium for<br />

the biggest show in Carnival. The show is<br />

Machel Monday. The star: Machel Montano,<br />

five-time Soca Monarch, eight-time Road<br />

<strong>March</strong> champ, and the indisputable king of<br />

soca.<br />

Others have given themselves that title,<br />

based on their mainstream success, but none<br />

can boast a thirty-five-year career in the art<br />

form, practically the same number of albums,<br />

or a brand that dominates the Carnival scene<br />

<strong>—</strong> whether or not they are even present.<br />

Montano entered the calypso arena as<br />

a child, but came of age in 1997, with the<br />

game-changing release of his Heavy Duty<br />

album. The album and its debut single “Big<br />

Truck” catapulted the “Too Young to Soca”<br />

singer into the role of Carnival’s winerboy.<br />

The lithe young man with a waist like<br />

butter has now evolved into a sage fortytwo-year-old<br />

That was the first year he appeared in<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong>, where writer Pat Ganase<br />

noted that the twenty-two-year-old was<br />

notorious for every kind of “wine.”<br />

Montano doesn’t wine that much these<br />

days. The lithe young man with a waist like<br />

butter has now evolved into a sage forty-twoyear-old<br />

who posts inspirational quotes daily<br />

on Instagram. But he still churns out hits to<br />

make people dance, think, celebrate, and<br />

debate.<br />

The key to Montano’s longevity and<br />

success has been his ability to change,<br />

adapt, and push the limits of his genre,<br />

while keeping his eye on his oft-repeated<br />

mission to make soca popular and take it to<br />

the four corners of the earth. He’s pursued<br />

this relentlessly, pushing boundaries, taking<br />

risks, and setting trends. He was the first to<br />

collaborate with Jamaican dancehall singers,<br />

opening the door for them to become staples<br />

on the soca scene. He was the first to marry<br />

house music with soca on 1995’s “Come<br />

Dig It”, later opening the floodgates to EDM<br />

soca with “AoA”. He sought international<br />

collaborations, teaming up with the likes of<br />

Pitbull, rappers Lil John and Wyclef Jean,<br />

among others, R&B group Boyz II Men,<br />

and South African group Ladysmith Black<br />

Mambazo, to name just a few.<br />

He’s taken the music far: to Egypt, India,<br />

and South Africa, filming videos, meeting<br />

songwriters and producers, and looking for<br />

sounds to infuse with his. In 2007, he became<br />

the first soca artist to headline his own show<br />

at Madison Square Garden in New York, and<br />

he’s performed on stages at Radio City Music<br />

Hall, Coachella, and South by Southwest.<br />

To maintain his position atop the pack,<br />

Montano <strong>—</strong> now an elder in the music<br />

arena with his thirty-five years’ experience<br />

<strong>—</strong> surrounds himself with young talent:<br />

songwriters, producers, musicians, and<br />

singers who help to keep his sound fresh<br />

and trendy.<br />

But nowhere has his evolution been<br />

reflected more clearly than in his changing<br />

handles. In the early days, his band was<br />

known as Pranasonic, named after the<br />

Prana Lands area in Siparia, south Trinidad,<br />

where Montano grew up. That changed to<br />

Xtatik. Then, as he changed the way his band<br />

functioned, he assumed the HD persona<br />

to reflect his mission to transmit a clearer<br />

image of who he is and what he’s about.<br />

In 2014, HD made way for Monk Monte.<br />

MONK, he said, was an acronym for the<br />

Movement of New Knowledge.<br />

With the new name came a new role,<br />

that of actor. Montano starred in his own<br />

film, Bazodee, a Bollywood-style love story<br />

set in T&T. In 2016, Bazodee became the<br />

first T&T-made film to be distributed in<br />

the US, Canada, and across the <strong>Caribbean</strong>.<br />

He’s expected to follow that up in <strong>2017</strong> with<br />

a documentary called Machel Montano:<br />

The Journey of a Soca King. That journey is<br />

far from over. For the foreseeable future,<br />

Montano’s crown seems secure.<br />

46 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


“I would hate to be a superstar,” said André Tanker to writer Judy Raymond, who profiled<br />

the beloved singer-composer in July/August 1997. Both his live performances and his<br />

recordings were relatively rare, but his death in 2003 <strong>—</strong> on Carnival Friday night <strong>—</strong> left a<br />

still-gaping absence in T&T’s music scene. Nearly twenty years after she interviewed him for<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong>, Raymond looks back at a musical talent that lives on in our cultural DNA:<br />

26 • Trinidadian musician<br />

André Tanker<br />

July/August 1997<br />

Photo by Mark Lyndersay<br />

André Tanker’s music might have been<br />

washed away in the torrent of soca that<br />

floods Trinidad at Carnival every year. But<br />

instead it’s outlasted almost all the local music<br />

produced since he died in 2003, at sixty-one.<br />

Tanker grew up in the middle-class Port of<br />

Spain neighbourhood of Woodbrook, home of<br />

the Invaders steelband, where he learned to<br />

play pan, and the Little Carib Theatre, where<br />

Beryl McBurnie was reviving folk dance and<br />

Orisha drummer Andrew Beddoe played for<br />

Derek Walcott’s Trinidad Theatre Workshop.<br />

But Tanker didn’t appreciate them fully<br />

until Afro-Trinidadians reclaimed their<br />

heritage in the 1970 Black Power Movement.<br />

“It gave you a perspective on who you are,<br />

what motivates you, why you like what you<br />

like,” Tanker said, looking back in 1997.<br />

That was when he understood he was<br />

entitled to draw on his entire birthright:<br />

calypso and reggae, jazz, blues, soul, Latin<br />

American music, African and Indian.<br />

“Children of a one great love,” he sang.<br />

Like many intuitive artists, he wasn’t<br />

easy to interview: low-key and laconic, he<br />

preferred his message to be conveyed by<br />

his music. Likewise, he was more composer<br />

than performer, though he played vibraphone<br />

and flute, and he sang his songs of love and<br />

the oneness of humankind, though his voice<br />

wasn’t his greatest asset.<br />

Walcott described Tanker’s work as<br />

“disciplined enough to be simple”; it was also<br />

rich enough to have enduring appeal. Even<br />

now, Trinis catch themselves humming “Wild<br />

Indian”, “Basement Party”, “Sayamanda”.<br />

His talent lay in blending traditions to make<br />

something that was at once fresh and familiar.<br />

27 • Barbadian soca star<br />

Edwin Yearwood<br />

September/October 1997<br />

Photo by Roxan Kinas<br />

28 • Parang season<br />

November/December 1997<br />

Illustration by Christopher<br />

Cozier<br />

29 • Masks of Carnival<br />

January/February 1998<br />

Photo by Sean Drakes<br />

30 • Kite season<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 1998<br />

Photo by Sean Drakes<br />

31 • Jamaica at the World Cup<br />

May/June 1998<br />

Photo by Doug Pensinger/Allsport<br />

Previewing that year’s FIFA World Cup<br />

in our May/June 1998 issue, Georgia<br />

Popplewell concluded, “For the first time<br />

since 1974, <strong>Caribbean</strong> people will really<br />

have a team to root for.” She was referring<br />

to Haiti’s national team, which unexpectedly<br />

qualified for the 1974 World Cup in West<br />

Germany <strong>—</strong> and to the Reggae Boyz, the<br />

Jamaican national team, which made history<br />

in 1998 as the first football team from the<br />

Anglophone <strong>Caribbean</strong> ever to go to the<br />

sport’s most prestigious tournament.<br />

“For a small country,” wrote Popplewell,<br />

“a national sports team is . . . a repository of<br />

civic dreams and aspirations.” Such was the<br />

case for Jamaica <strong>—</strong> even if the Reggae Boyz<br />

didn’t advance out of the finals’ first round.<br />

Five years later, it was Trinidad and<br />

Tobago’s chance. <strong>Beat</strong>ing Bahrain in a<br />

qualifying match, the Soca Warriors booked<br />

their tickets to the 2006 World Cup in<br />

Germany <strong>—</strong> and T&T became the smallest<br />

nation ever to qualify for the World Cup, a<br />

victory in its own right.<br />

WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 47


32 • T&T’s Wendy Fitzwilliam,<br />

Miss Universe 1998<br />

July/August 1998<br />

Photo by Ian Yee<br />

33 • Lisa Steele in a costume<br />

from Peter Minshall’s Red<br />

September/October 1998<br />

Photo by Sonya Sanchez-Arias<br />

34 • Fishing boats at Grand<br />

Anse, Grenada<br />

November/December 1998<br />

Photo by Mike Toy<br />

35 • Carnival spirit<br />

January/February 1999<br />

Illustration by Russel Halfhide<br />

38 • Barbadian soca star<br />

Alison Hinds<br />

July/August 1999<br />

Photo by Eric Young<br />

When Alison Hinds appeared on the cover of our July/August<br />

1999 issue, the “Bajan invasion” of Carnivals across the<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> was far advanced. Shelly-Ann Inniss explains how<br />

the island’s music scene has evolved over the past twenty years:<br />

The 1990s were arguably<br />

a high point for Barbadian<br />

music. The nightclub scene in<br />

Barbados was alive and well,<br />

and artistes were not afraid<br />

to experiment. This decade<br />

saw the rise of soca stars<br />

like Hinds alongside Rupee<br />

and Edwin Yearwood (who’d<br />

appeared on <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong>’s<br />

cover two years before); jazz/<br />

reggae saxophonist Arturo<br />

Tappin; calypso powerhouse<br />

Anthony “Mighty Gabby”<br />

Carter; and local band Spice<br />

and Company, just to start.<br />

Creativity seemed to be<br />

at an all-time high and the<br />

Barbadian sound was one<br />

of the leading influences in<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> music.<br />

Soca dominated the<br />

landscape and infiltrated<br />

foreign markets, allowing<br />

artistes to share their sound<br />

with global audiences.<br />

Rupee’s “Tempted to Touch”<br />

peaked at number 39 on the<br />

US Billboard Hot 100 chart<br />

and at 44 on the UK singles<br />

chart, and featured in the<br />

soundtrack of the Hollywood<br />

movie After the Sunset.<br />

Reggae, hip-hop, jazz,<br />

electronic dance music<br />

(EDM), and R&B also inspired<br />

the style of music performed<br />

and created by Barbadian<br />

musicians. By the mid 2000s,<br />

Barbados was producing<br />

international artistes from<br />

hybrid genres <strong>—</strong> Rihanna<br />

above all, but also Livvi<br />

Franc, Hal Linton, Shontelle,<br />

Teff Hinkson, Cover Drive,<br />

2 Mile Hill, and others.<br />

Barbadians are proud of<br />

their successful musicians,<br />

and have created the<br />

glamorous Barbados Music<br />

Awards and other festivals<br />

to highlight, showcase, and<br />

honour the wealth of musical<br />

talent within the country.<br />

Relevance and longevity<br />

are always concerns in the<br />

industry, and often it’s a battle<br />

of legend versus newcomer.<br />

Mahalia Cummins, lead<br />

singer of the band 2 Mile<br />

Hill, says the music scene is<br />

once again resurging. “Where<br />

support was previously<br />

lacking, young and upcoming<br />

artistes are working with<br />

42 • The Ramayana in Trinidad<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2000<br />

Illustration by Shalini Seereeram<br />

48 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM<br />

Some issues of <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> disappear off the planes<br />

faster than others <strong>—</strong> and sometimes a gorgeous cover<br />

image is the reason. The vivid tones of Shalini Seereeram’s<br />

Ramayana illustration for our <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2000 issue made<br />

it a favourite with readers <strong>—</strong> and changed the artist’s career.<br />

“I had no idea it was to be on the cover,” Seereeram recalls.<br />

“It came at a turning point in my career. I was working<br />

in graphic design and preparing for my first art show.<br />

Receiving the news that my art was to be on <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />

<strong>Beat</strong>’s cover was the push I needed to quit graphic design<br />

and focus on my art career.”<br />

43 • Sheikh Ibrahim Mosque,<br />

Caracas<br />

May/June 2000<br />

Photo by Wyatt Gallery


36 • Phagwah celebrations<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 1999<br />

Photo by Sean Drakes<br />

the more seasoned<br />

performers,” she explains.<br />

Hinds, our cover subject<br />

eighteen years ago, is one<br />

such artiste, and she’s<br />

always working behind<br />

the scenes collaborating<br />

with or mentoring younger<br />

talent. Most recently,<br />

she’s signed up to mentor<br />

the young people of the<br />

UNICEF <strong>Caribbean</strong> Junior<br />

Monarch Competition,<br />

which will launch officially<br />

in August this year.<br />

Soca is still a main<br />

staple in Barbadian<br />

music, meanwhile <strong>—</strong> and<br />

with names like Damian<br />

Marvay, Nikita, King<br />

Bubba, and Joaquin in the<br />

current mix, it’s not going<br />

to wind up anytime soon.<br />

Wining down <strong>—</strong> that’s a<br />

different matter.<br />

37 • Wendy Fitzwilliam,<br />

Miss Universe 1998<br />

May/June 1999<br />

Photo by Sean Drakes<br />

39 • Jamaican fast bowler<br />

Courtney Walsh<br />

September/October 1999<br />

Photo by Stu Forester/Allsport<br />

The <strong>Caribbean</strong> adores its beauty queens. For a small<br />

country, any citizen who wins positive international<br />

acclaim is a hero. And our various Misses Universe and<br />

World over the decades have also proven to be a talented,<br />

enterprising bunch, going on to careers in politics, the<br />

arts, and philanthropy. Grenadian Jennifer Hosten (Miss<br />

World 1970) later became a diplomat. Jamaican Cindy<br />

Breakspeare (Miss World 1976) may be best remembered<br />

as Bob Marley’s muse and the mother of his son Damien,<br />

but she’s also a successful recording artist in her own right.<br />

Her countrywoman Lisa Hanna (Miss World 1993) served<br />

as a Cabinet minister. And among the Trinidadians, Janelle<br />

Commissiong (Miss Universe 1977) and Giselle Laronde<br />

(Miss World 1986) both become successful businesswomen.<br />

No wonder, then, that T&T’s Wendy Fitzwilliam, Miss<br />

Universe 1998, managed to appear twice on <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong>’s<br />

cover, in July/August 1998 and again less than a year later,<br />

resplendent in Carnival costume. Her “reign” was just the<br />

beginning: a law student when she won her title, she was<br />

later admitted to the bar in her home country, honoured for<br />

her activism in HIV/AIDS awareness, recognised as a Red<br />

Cross Ambassador for Youth, published a well-received<br />

memoir, and now hosts the reality TV series <strong>Caribbean</strong>’s Top<br />

Model <strong>—</strong> all while maintaining her elegant but down-toearth<br />

presence on T&T’s social scene.<br />

40 • New directions?<br />

November/December 1999<br />

Illustration by Russel Halfhide<br />

41 • Welcoming a new millennium<br />

January/February 2000<br />

Illustration by Russel Halfhide<br />

Boats were a favourite cover subject in the magazine’s<br />

earlier years <strong>—</strong> no fewer than nine in all, ranging from<br />

fancy yachts to humble pirogues. How do other categories<br />

compare in the rankings? Three covers have depicted<br />

botanical subjects, and three have featured children playing<br />

on beaches. Seashells? Two. Surf-, windsurf-, and kiteboards?<br />

Three. Rivers? Five. At the other end of the scale:<br />

sportsmen and -women? Eighteen. Musicians? Twenty-four.<br />

We aren’t called <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> for nothing.<br />

44 • Bougainvillea greeting<br />

July/August 2000<br />

Photo by Sean Drakes<br />

45 • Sailing off St Vincent<br />

September/October 2000<br />

Photo by Chris Huxley<br />

WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 49


“If Trinidad has a soul, the place to hear it is in Mungal Patasar’s music.” Thus did writer Niala<br />

Maharaj begin her story on the renowned Trinidadian sitarist in our November/December<br />

2000 issue. And her incisive profile was complemented by photographer Mark Lyndersay’s<br />

portrait of Patasar on the cover. A prolific contributor of both images and words to <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />

<strong>Beat</strong> over the decades (with nine covers to his credit), Lyndersay recalls that photoshoot at<br />

Patasar’s house nearly seventeen years ago:<br />

46 • Mungal Patasar on<br />

the sitar<br />

November/December 2000<br />

Photo by Mark Lyndersay<br />

Every photographer on assignment for a<br />

magazine wants the cover. It’s prime space and<br />

usually pays the best, but a portrait session can<br />

go off the rails if there isn’t a good, balanced<br />

range of images for the publication’s designer<br />

to work with. That means putting effort into<br />

making every setup as compelling as possible,<br />

while thinking about how they play together to<br />

offer their own visual narrative in the final piece.<br />

Ideally, the photographs complement<br />

the words in a profile. Sometimes they tell a<br />

parallel but unrelated story. At worst, they exist in a different world from the<br />

words. The cover photo has work to do. It is a preview of the issue’s tone and<br />

content, a sales pitch to the potential reader, and an invitation to read the<br />

story it references.<br />

My first preference with a subject is almost always an environmental<br />

portrait. If it can happen effectively in the subject’s space, they begin with<br />

the advantage of home ground in the encounter. The Mungal Patasar session<br />

happened at his home. The musician lives in the countryside, and I imagined<br />

great possibilities. I photographed him in his<br />

living room with his family and, with time<br />

running out, in a nearby field seated with his<br />

sitar under a tree.<br />

But it was the portrait taken just a few<br />

inches from the front door of his home<br />

<strong>—</strong> a heavy, weathered slab of wood with<br />

just enough texture and muted tone to<br />

complement the musician and his well-used<br />

instrument <strong>—</strong> that ended up leading the issue.<br />

After some broad direction about posture,<br />

Mungal began to play. I wish I could say I<br />

was an appreciative audience, but I had one<br />

roll of 120 Fujichrome 50 allocated for this<br />

shot, twelve frames on the Hasselblad I was<br />

using, and I needed to bracket exposures.<br />

Mungal just played on, doing his work<br />

while I did mine, a portrait more passionately<br />

given than taken.<br />

47 • Carnival rainbow<br />

January/February 2001<br />

Photo by Sean Drakes<br />

48 • Water lily<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2001<br />

Photo by Sean Drakes<br />

49 • Bob Marley<br />

May/June 2001<br />

Photo by Adrian Boot<br />

50th issue<br />

July/August 2001<br />

Illustration by Russel Halfhide<br />

51 • Seashells<br />

September/October 2001<br />

Photo by Sean Drakes<br />

52 • Shake the maracas<br />

November/December 2001<br />

Illustration by Tonia St Cyr<br />

53 • Carnival time again<br />

January/February 2002<br />

Photo by Sean Drakes<br />

Our twenty-odd Carnival<br />

cover subjects have<br />

included sequined<br />

pretty mas, calypso and<br />

soca stars, traditional<br />

characters like the blue<br />

devil and Dame Lorraine.<br />

Mas is one of the hardest<br />

subjects to capture in a<br />

single image: it’s chaotic,<br />

it’s unpredictable, it moves<br />

too fast.<br />

50 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


54 • Writer Oonya<br />

Kempadoo<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2002<br />

Photo by Jim Rudin<br />

Over two and a half<br />

decades, we’ve profiled<br />

dozens of our region’s best<br />

writers <strong>—</strong> novelists, poets,<br />

dramatists, biographers.<br />

We’ve run in-depth features<br />

on Nobel laureates and<br />

talented up-and-comers.<br />

Our first story on Jamaican<br />

Marlon James ran in 2006,<br />

nine years before he won<br />

the Man Booker Prize;<br />

we profiled Trinidadian<br />

Vahni Capildeo, winner of<br />

the 2016 Forward Prize,<br />

back in 2004. But in twenty-five years, only one writer has<br />

appeared on the cover: Grenada-based Oonya Kempadoo,<br />

profiled in <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2002.<br />

Kempadoo had made an auspicious debut three years<br />

before, with her novel Buxton Spice, which set off a fabled<br />

“bidding war” among London publishers. Tide Running<br />

soon followed. And her third novel, All Decent Animals,<br />

was imminent, our 2002 article predicted. Except it was<br />

another decade before it actually appeared. Our readers<br />

got a preview in our May/June 2013 issue, when we<br />

published an excerpt from the long-awaited work.<br />

55 • Jamaican reggae musician<br />

Beres Hammond<br />

May/June 2002<br />

Photo by Tim Barrow<br />

57 • Pan passion<br />

September/October 2002<br />

Photo by Noel Norton<br />

56 • Enjoying the holidays<br />

on an Antiguan beach<br />

July/August 2002<br />

Photo by Sean Drakes<br />

58 • Danse La Helene<br />

November/December 2002<br />

Illustration by Martin Superville<br />

59 • Masquerader from<br />

Peter Minshall’s Picoplat<br />

January/February 2003<br />

Photo by Sean Drakes<br />

MARCH/APRIL 2003<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />

Free to BWIA<br />

passengers<br />

60 • Guyanese woodpecker<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2003<br />

Photo courtesy the Tourism and<br />

Hotel Association of Guyana<br />

MAY/JUNE 2003<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />

Free to BWIA<br />

passengers<br />

61 • Waiting at the crease<br />

May/June 2003<br />

Photo by Sean Drakes<br />

It’s one of the permanently contentious issues of public<br />

debate in the <strong>Caribbean</strong>: the state of West Indies cricket.<br />

Over the lifetime of <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong>, fans of the game have<br />

argued and agonised over the regional team, its players and<br />

administrators, and wondered if the West Indies will ever<br />

return to the form of its glory days in the 1970s and 80s.<br />

In our May/June 2003 issue, we took a stab at predicting<br />

what a future version of the West Indies team might look like.<br />

After talking to experts at the West Indies Cricket Board and<br />

regional cricket associations, we compiled our “next 11”: a<br />

lineup of exceptional young cricketers under seventeen years<br />

old, who seemed to have the talent and attitude.<br />

So how solid were our predictions? Of our eleven<br />

youngsters, one <strong>—</strong> Marcus Julien of Grenada <strong>—</strong> switched<br />

sports, to football. Most of the others went on to play for<br />

their national under-17 or under-19 teams. A handful <strong>—</strong><br />

including Kavesh Kantasingh of T&T and Javal Hodge of St Kitts and Nevis <strong>—</strong> have played<br />

for their national senior teams. And two have represented the West Indies at the highest<br />

levels of the game.<br />

Trinidadian batsman Jason Mohammed made his first-class debut for T&T against<br />

Jamaica in 2006. And in December 2011 he played his first One Day International match<br />

for the West Indies, versus India. He subsequently represented both T&T Red Steel and the<br />

Guyana Amazon Warriors in the <strong>Caribbean</strong> Premiere League T20 regional tournament.<br />

Meanwhile, Barbadian batsman Omar Phillips found himself batting for the West Indies<br />

in a 2009 Test match against Bangladesh. A contract strike by several members of the<br />

regional senior team saw seven young players selected for that Test series. Phillips came<br />

just six runs short of a debut century.<br />

52 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2003<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />

Free to BWIA<br />

passengers<br />

62 • Dancehall musicians Beenie<br />

Man, Bounty Killer, and Buju Banton<br />

July/August 2003<br />

Photo by Urbanimage.tv<br />

68 • JULY/AUGUST 2004<br />

JULY/AUGUST 2004<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />

68 • On the track to gold<br />

July/August 2004<br />

Photo by Marlon Rouse<br />

Free to BWIA<br />

passengers<br />

63 • Detail of Salybia, by<br />

Trinidadian artist Lisa O’Connor<br />

September/October 2003<br />

Photo by Mark Lyndersay<br />

69 • Special music issue<br />

September/October 2004<br />

Illustration by Russel Halfhide<br />

64 • Havana’s Calle San<br />

Ignacio<br />

November/December 2003<br />

Photo by Sean Drakes<br />

In perhaps the most<br />

ambitious feature<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> had yet<br />

published, we polled a<br />

panel of music experts<br />

and came up with a list of<br />

250 great songs from the<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>—</strong> most of them<br />

from the pre-digital era,<br />

as suggested by the vinyl<br />

record on the cover.<br />

65 • Peter Minshall’s<br />

Hummingbird<br />

January/February 2004<br />

Photo by Roy Boyke, courtesy<br />

the Callaloo Company<br />

72 • MARCH/APRIL 2005<br />

MARCH/APRIL 2005<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />

Free to BWIA<br />

passengers<br />

73 • MAY/JUNE 2005<br />

MAY/JUNE 2005<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />

Free to BWIA<br />

passengers<br />

74 • JULY/AUGUST 2005<br />

JULY/AUGUST 2005<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />

Free to BWIA<br />

passengers<br />

75 • SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2005<br />

75th ISSUESEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2005<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />

BROOKLYN<br />

Free to BWIA<br />

passengers<br />

72 • Remembering cartoonist<br />

DEW, 1935–2004<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2005<br />

Illustration by Dunstan E. Williams<br />

73 • St Lucia’s east coast<br />

May/June 2005<br />

Photo by Mike Toy<br />

74 • Indigenous Guyanese<br />

youngster<br />

July/August 2005<br />

Photo by Roberta Parkin<br />

75 • Brooklyn <strong>—</strong> the largest<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> city?<br />

September/October 2005<br />

Photo by Sol McCants<br />

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2006<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />

81 • SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2006<br />

Free to BWIA<br />

passengers<br />

80 • Gingerbread fretwork<br />

in Sint Maarten<br />

July/August 2006<br />

Photo by Donald Nausbaum<br />

81 • Celebrating Carifesta<br />

September/October 2006<br />

Illustration by Marlon Griffith<br />

82 • Farewell to BWIA<br />

November/December 2006<br />

Illustration by MEP<br />

83 • Welcome to <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines<br />

January/February 2007<br />

Illustration courtesy <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines<br />

54 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2005<br />

It’s one of the most iconic Carnival photos of all time,<br />

perfect for the cover of our issue profiling thirteen designers<br />

from the golden age of mas: Peter Minshall’s 1974 costume<br />

From the Land of the Hummingbird, portrayed by Sherry-Ann<br />

Guy and captured on film by the late Roy Boyke.<br />

The most celebrated and controversial masman in<br />

T&T Carnival from the time of his debut in the mid 1970s,<br />

Minshall himself had appeared on the cover of our third<br />

issue, back in 1992. On two other occasions, photos of his<br />

creations made striking cover subjects: our September/<br />

October 1998 issue featured a costume from his band Red,<br />

and a bird-garbed masquerader from Picoplat appeared on<br />

our January/February 2003 issue. <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong>’s most<br />

extensive take on Minshall’s career came in our May/June<br />

2006 issue, when a profile by editor Nicholas Laughlin was<br />

accompanied by personal accounts from some of the artist’s<br />

closest colleagues and observers.<br />

In an irony of timing, 2006 also turned out to be the final<br />

year in which Minshall produced a full-scale Carnival band.<br />

But a handful of smaller subsequent mas collaborations have<br />

continued to astound and provoke his audience. Witness<br />

the drag-ballerina Dying Swan costume he designed for the<br />

Carnival Kings and Queens competition in 2016, which set<br />

off a firestorm of debate unlike anything since <strong>—</strong> well, since<br />

the last Minshall controversy. Genius remains restless.<br />

66 • Brian Lara on the offensive<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2004<br />

Photo by Getty Images<br />

70 • The Love Circle<br />

November/December 2004<br />

Photo by Mark Lyndersay<br />

67 • Trinidadian rock band<br />

The Orange Sky<br />

May/June 2004<br />

Band photos by Alex Smailes<br />

71 • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2005<br />

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2005<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />

71 • Carnival imp<br />

January/February 2005<br />

Photo by Sean Drakes<br />

Free to BWIA<br />

passengers<br />

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2006<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />

MAY/JUNE 2006<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />

Free to BWIA<br />

passengers<br />

77 • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2006<br />

76 • NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2005<br />

Free to BWIA<br />

passengers<br />

Free to BWIA<br />

passengers<br />

76 • Holiday season in T&T<br />

November/December 2005<br />

Illustration by Shalini Seereeram<br />

77 • T&T music stars<br />

January/February 2006<br />

Image by Mark Lyndersay<br />

78 • St George’s, Grenada<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2006<br />

Photo by Modern Photo<br />

Studios<br />

79 • Heading to the FIFA<br />

World Cup<br />

May/June 2006<br />

Photo by Mark Lyndersay<br />

At midnight on 1 January,<br />

2007, BWIA <strong>—</strong> <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />

<strong>Beat</strong>’s airline partner for<br />

fifteen years <strong>—</strong> ceased<br />

to exist, and <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />

Airlines was born,<br />

welcomed by a cover<br />

featuring the colourful<br />

hummingbird from the<br />

new airline’s logo.<br />

MARCH/APRIL 2007<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong><strong>Beat</strong><br />

passengers<br />

Free to CARIBBEAN AIRLINES<br />

84 • Beach cricket<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2007<br />

Photo by Abigail Hadeed<br />

85 • Model Jaunel McKenzie<br />

at <strong>Caribbean</strong> Fashion Week<br />

May/June 2007<br />

Photo by Froylan Flowers<br />

86 • Kayaking on the Lucie<br />

River, Suriname<br />

July/August 2007<br />

Photo by Dean Van Ommeren<br />

WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 55


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87 • Barbadian superstar<br />

Rihanna<br />

September/October 2007<br />

Photo courtesy Roberto D’Este<br />

“It always seemed glamorous,” said Rihanna early on in her<br />

career, “but it is real work.” Talent and luck have something<br />

to do with it, too. A nineteen-year-old relative newcomer<br />

when she appeared on the cover of the September/October<br />

2007 <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong>, the Barbadian singer-songwriter was<br />

then two years into a stellar international career. A decade<br />

later, she’s indisputably the top selling digital artist of all<br />

time, winner of eight Grammy Awards, among numerous<br />

other honours <strong>—</strong> also a fashion icon, movie star, named one<br />

of 2012’s “100 most influential people in the world” by Time<br />

magazine, and an astute businessperson: in 2015 she created<br />

her own label, Westbury Road Entertainment.<br />

“Whenever I get the chance, I fly home to Barbados,”<br />

Rihanna said, interviewed in <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> by writer Essiba<br />

Small. And her contributions to her home island go beyond<br />

the reflected blaze of her pop-star celebrity. In 2012, Rihanna<br />

made headlines when she donated US$1.75 million to the<br />

Queen Elizabeth Hospital in Barbados, in memory of her<br />

late grandmother <strong>—</strong> the namesake of Rihanna’s Clara Lionel<br />

Foundation, which she founded to “improve the quality of life<br />

for communities globally in the areas of health, education,<br />

arts, and culture.” An unapologetic force to reckon with, the<br />

first-ever recipient of the American Music Awards Icon Award<br />

is now working on her ninth studio album.<br />

88 • Trinidadian golfer<br />

Stephen Ames<br />

November/December 2007<br />

Photo by Robert Taylor<br />

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2008<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong><strong>Beat</strong><br />

Free to<br />

CARIBBEAN AIRLINES<br />

passengers<br />

93 • Classical Indian dancers<br />

September/October 2008<br />

Illustration by Shalini Seereeram<br />

98 • Fun at Trinidad’s<br />

Maracas Bay<br />

July/August 2009<br />

Photo by Andrea de Silva<br />

99 • Trio shaman in Suriname<br />

September/October 2009<br />

Photo by Andy Isaacson<br />

100th issue<br />

November/December 2009<br />

Cover design by Aisha Provoteaux<br />

101 • J’Ouvert devil<br />

January/February 2010<br />

Photo by Andrea de Silva<br />

105 • The New <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />

Cinema collective<br />

September/October 2010<br />

Photo courtesy Marlon James<br />

Four young filmmakers on<br />

the cover of our September/<br />

October 2010 issue led writer<br />

Jonathan Ali’s survey of<br />

contemporary <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />

cinema. Seven years later, he<br />

gives us a progress report:<br />

Back in 2010, three of the<br />

directors I highlighted<br />

had just made their debut<br />

features: Maria Govan (Rain)<br />

and Kareem Mortimer<br />

(Children of God) of the<br />

Bahamas, and Jamaica’s<br />

Storm Saulter (Better Mus’<br />

Come). As I write this, Govan’s<br />

second effort, Play the Devil,<br />

is winning plaudits on the<br />

festival circuit; Mortimer’s<br />

third film, Cargo, is about to<br />

premiere; and Saulter is in<br />

post-production on his follow<br />

up, Sprinter.<br />

Other talented filmmakers<br />

have joined in the act. The<br />

blessings of the digital<br />

revolution notwithstanding,<br />

making films in the <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />

remains a challenging<br />

business. The biggest<br />

challenge, however, still is<br />

winning over hearts and<br />

minds to the idea that there’s<br />

more to cinema than the<br />

Hollywood formula.<br />

56 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


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89 • Trinidadians 3Canal<br />

January/February 2008<br />

Photo by David Wears<br />

90 • T&T’s women’s boxing team<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2008<br />

Photo by Mariamma Kambon<br />

91 • Guyana’s Iwokrama<br />

Canopy Walkway<br />

May/June 2008<br />

Photo by Skye Hernandez<br />

92 • Jamaican sprinter Asafa<br />

Powell<br />

July/August 2008<br />

Photo by Michael Steele/Getty Images<br />

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2008<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong><strong>Beat</strong><br />

Free to<br />

CARIBBEAN AIRLINES<br />

passengers<br />

94 • The jewellery designs<br />

of Emmaloochie<br />

November/December 2008<br />

Photo courtesy Emmaloochie<br />

95 • Carnival devil in<br />

downtown Port of Spain<br />

January/February 2009<br />

Photo by Jeffrey Chock<br />

96 • Fast bowler<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2009<br />

Illustration by Nikolai Noel<br />

97 • Dominica river hike<br />

May/June 2009<br />

Photo by Sean Drakes<br />

102 • Trinidadian chef<br />

Ossie “Chinkey” Francis<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2010<br />

Photo by Andrea de Silva<br />

106 • Divali lights<br />

November/December 2010<br />

Photo by Mark Lyndersay<br />

103 • Trinidad and Tobago<br />

Fashion Week<br />

May/June 2010<br />

Photo by Sean Drakes<br />

INFLIGHT MAGAZINE<br />

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2011<br />

107 • Red Indian mas<br />

January/February 2011<br />

Photo by Edison Boodoosingh<br />

104 • Ziggy Marley<br />

July/August 2010<br />

Photo courtesy Wonder Knack<br />

Arguably the <strong>Caribbean</strong>’s<br />

most famous icon, Bob<br />

Marley was the cover<br />

subject of our May/June<br />

2001 issue, on the twentieth<br />

anniversary of his death.<br />

His legacy lives on through<br />

his music, familiar to fans<br />

around the world <strong>—</strong> and<br />

though his children and<br />

grandchildren, many of<br />

whom inherited Marley’s<br />

musical genes. Like firstborn<br />

son David “Ziggy”<br />

Marley, who appeared on<br />

the cover of our July/August 2010 issue.<br />

Last year, Ziggy released his fifteenth album. There<br />

are also rumours of new albums in the works from both<br />

Damien and his brother Julian. Meanwhile, the rest of the<br />

family is involved in various Marley-branded projects,<br />

from fashion to cooking, graphic design to electronics,<br />

and of course running the Bob Marley Museum in<br />

Kingston. There’s a line of Marley coffee <strong>—</strong> including<br />

beans grown in the Blue Mountains of Jamaica and<br />

the highlands of Ethiopia <strong>—</strong> and eco-friendly footwear.<br />

Whatever else you can say of the Marley family, they<br />

understand the value of their family legacy.<br />

WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 57


INFLIGHT MAGAZINE<br />

MAY/JUNE 2011<br />

JULY/AUGUST 2011<br />

MARCH/APRIL 2011<br />

108 • Trinidadian-Canadian chef<br />

Roger Mooking<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2011<br />

Photo by Geoff George<br />

109 • Tobago cocoa<br />

May/June 2011<br />

Photo by Alex Smailes<br />

INFLIGHT MAGAZINE<br />

INFLIGHT MAGAZINE<br />

110 • El Tucuche golden frog<br />

July/August 2011<br />

Photo by Pierson Hill<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong>’s special<br />

“Green Issue” featured<br />

a rare frog species on its<br />

cover <strong>—</strong> the only time an<br />

amphibian has served as<br />

cover model. Fauna cover<br />

subjects have also included<br />

one non-human mammal<br />

and four birds <strong>—</strong> can you<br />

spot them all?<br />

115 • Trinidadian Broadway star<br />

Heather Headley<br />

May/June 2012<br />

Photo courtesy Heather Headley<br />

116 • Grenadian Olympic<br />

champ Kirani James<br />

July/August 2012<br />

Photo by Michael Steele/Getty<br />

Images<br />

Heading into the 2012 Summer Olympics in London, the eyes<br />

of the world were on Usain Bolt <strong>—</strong> understandably, considering<br />

how the Jamaican sprinter had overwhelmed the competition<br />

in Beijing four years earlier. But astute observers <strong>—</strong> like writer<br />

Kwame Laurence, who wrote the cover story on <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />

Olympic prospects for our July/August 2012 issue <strong>—</strong> had their<br />

eyes on other contenders as well. Like Grenada’s Kirani James,<br />

then just nineteen years old, who a year before at the World<br />

Championships had become the youngest ever 400-metre gold<br />

medalist.<br />

“He has all the expectations of Grenada resting on his<br />

shoulders,” wrote Laurence. And on 6 August, 2012, those<br />

expectations were fulfilled: thanks to James, Grenada’s firstever<br />

Olympic medal was gold. Five of the eight lanes in the<br />

final were occupied by <strong>Caribbean</strong> athletes, plus all three<br />

spots on the medal podium <strong>—</strong> with Luguelín Santos of the<br />

Dominican Republic in second place and Lalonde Gordon of<br />

T&T in third.<br />

. . . All the expectations of Grenada resting on his<br />

shoulders<br />

119 • Steffano Marcano,<br />

Carnival blue devil<br />

January/February 2013<br />

Photo by Maria Nunes<br />

121 • Jamaica’s No-Maddz<br />

May/June 2013<br />

Photo by Marlon James<br />

James’s welcome back to Grenada <strong>—</strong> and his home village<br />

of Gouyave <strong>—</strong> was euphoric. And Grenadian readers of<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> were delighted the magazine had the foresight<br />

to put him on the cover. How did we make the call? “I think it<br />

was a mixture of reasons,” remembers Judy Raymond, then<br />

editor. “We wanted to use a photo of someone promising<br />

but not too familiar, and from somewhere that didn’t already<br />

have a great Olympic track record. And we had a good pic of<br />

him.” The confidence of writer Kwame Laurence <strong>—</strong> one of the<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong>’s most experienced sports journalists, specialising in<br />

track and field, and a longtime contributor to the magazine <strong>—</strong><br />

about James’s promise also helped.<br />

Four years later, at the 2016 Rio Olympics, James was a<br />

favourite to repeat his win. Only one athlete <strong>—</strong> American<br />

Michael Johnson <strong>—</strong> had ever managed to defend an Olympic<br />

gold in the men’s 400 metres, in 1996 and 2000. But the<br />

58 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2011<br />

INFLIGHT MAGAZINE<br />

111 • Trinidad-born singer<br />

Nicki Minaj<br />

September/October 2011<br />

Photo by D Project Records/<br />

Young Money Entertainment<br />

112 • Christmas dinner<br />

with T&T celebrities<br />

November/December 2011<br />

Photo by Andrea De Silva<br />

113 • Machel Montano<br />

costumed by Carnival band K2K<br />

January/February 2012<br />

Photo by Marlon Rouse<br />

114 • Trinidadian designer<br />

Anya Ayoung-Chee<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2012<br />

Photo by Wyatt Gallery<br />

achievement just barely escaped the Grenadian champion.<br />

James came second, to Wayde van Niekerk of South Africa<br />

<strong>—</strong> but still brought home Grenada’s second-ever Olympic<br />

medal, and singlehandedly gave his country the highest<br />

number of Olympic medals, per capita, at two successive<br />

Summer Games.<br />

117 • Detail of Disciple I, by<br />

Jamaican artist Ebony G. Patterson<br />

September/October 2012<br />

Image courtesy Ebony G. Patterson<br />

118 • Diwali parade in Guyana<br />

November/December 2012<br />

Photo by Michael Lam<br />

streeter lecka/getty<br />

120 • Barbadian surfer<br />

Chelsea Tuach<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2013<br />

Photo by Mark Harris<br />

Just seventeen when she<br />

appeared on the cover<br />

of the <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2013<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong>, slicing<br />

through a wave, Chelsea<br />

Tuach already had four<br />

years’ experience as a<br />

national and regional<br />

surfing champion. Starting<br />

at the age of ten, Tuach<br />

is the youngest surfer to<br />

represent Barbados in the<br />

watersport, and the most<br />

successful in competition.<br />

Ranked fourth in the world<br />

in 2015, she’s twice won the World Surf League (WSL)<br />

North American Junior Pro Championships.<br />

Tuach has flown the Barbadian flag in Australia, Brazil,<br />

El Salvador, Fiji, Mexico, Spain, France, and Japan. “I<br />

set goals, seize opportunities, and with a lot of faith<br />

and support, I’ve managed to do it,” she says. She’s had<br />

moments of self-doubt and at times intimidation, going<br />

up against older competitors. But nothing has stopped her<br />

burning spirit of determination, especially backed with<br />

resounding support from her island.<br />

WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 59


122 • Detail of Mokisi I, by<br />

Surinamese artist Marcel Pinas<br />

July/August 2013<br />

Photo by William Tsang, courtesy<br />

of Readytex Art Gallery<br />

123 • Lifeguard station on<br />

Miami Beach<br />

September/October 2013<br />

Photo by Fotomak/Shutterstock.com<br />

124 • Haitian-American<br />

football player Pierre Garçon<br />

November/December 2013<br />

Portrait by Jim Darling<br />

A sportsman in a football<br />

uniform <strong>—</strong> American<br />

football, not soccer <strong>—</strong><br />

must have surprised<br />

readers who don’t<br />

associate the game with<br />

the <strong>Caribbean</strong>. But there’s<br />

more than a handful of<br />

players with <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />

connections in the United<br />

States’ National Football<br />

League, as writer Debbie<br />

Jacob explained in<br />

the cover story of our<br />

November/December 2013 issue. She updates us on<br />

three of the players she profiled then:<br />

125 • Nathaniel Charleau<br />

portrays a Dame Lorraine<br />

January/February 2014<br />

Photo by Maria Nunes<br />

127 • Cave diving in Andros,<br />

the Bahamas<br />

May/June 2014<br />

Photo by Brian Kakuk<br />

128 • Jamaican surfer Icah Wilmot<br />

July/August 2014<br />

Photo by Marlon James<br />

126 • Jamaican singer<br />

Tessanne Chin<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2014<br />

Photo by Adrian Creary<br />

What’s the exemplary<br />

colour of the <strong>Caribbean</strong>?<br />

Many would say blue, in<br />

all its hues: the colour of<br />

the sea that surrounds our<br />

islands. There’s something<br />

about that tropical marine<br />

blue that lifts the spirits: no<br />

wonder blue waters have<br />

appeared on no fewer than<br />

seventeen of our covers<br />

over the years.<br />

129 • View of Petit Piton, St Lucia<br />

September/October 2014<br />

Photo by Danielle Devaux<br />

The old adage “you can’t judge a book by its cover”<br />

doesn’t apply to magazines. When “From island to end<br />

zone”, profiling NFL football players with <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />

roots, hit the Internet, <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong>’s website got<br />

thousands of hits in the first hour <strong>—</strong> enough to crash the<br />

site temporarily. The Washington Redskins and its star<br />

wide receiver Pierre Garçon had tweeted the story, and<br />

it was read by legions of fans. Garçon spoke about his<br />

Haitian roots and his continuous ties with the <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />

island <strong>—</strong> and his friendly smile lit up the cover photo.<br />

Garçon hasn’t skipped a beat since his <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />

profile. He finished his five-year, US$45-million contract<br />

with the Redskins and became a free agent. At thirtyone,<br />

he showed no signs of slowing down. He’s been a<br />

consistent play-maker for the Redskins throughout all<br />

the team’s travails with its numerous quarterbacks. Then<br />

when Hurricane Matthew hit Haiti last year, Garçon’s<br />

team sent him to Haiti as an extension of his prolific<br />

community service work, and the NFL chose him to<br />

represent his team for the Walter Payton Man of the Year<br />

award, which pays homage to NFL players who engage in<br />

community service.<br />

Meanwhile, Jamaica-born Patrick Chung, also<br />

featured in the story, left the Philadelphia Eagles<br />

and returned to the New England Patriots to play for<br />

Bill Belichick, considered one of the most difficult<br />

and challenging coaches in the NFL. Chung soared,<br />

figuratively and literally, with high-flying tackles at the<br />

free safety position, which stunned opponents’ offenses.<br />

Belichick deemed Chung a crucial, versatile player who<br />

excelled at any defensive position where he was slotted.<br />

And Jamaica-born Trevardo Williams, a fourth-round<br />

draft pick and rookie for the Texas Texans, suffered<br />

an injury that prevented him from playing most of the<br />

season with the Texans. He made the rounds of the NFL,<br />

and landed eventually in the Canadian Football League<br />

(CFL), playing for the Toronto Argonauts.<br />

60 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


ADVERTORIAL<br />

Miami: what an experience!<br />

Go on a tour, taste exquisite dishes, relax, or<br />

work in the tropical beauty that is Miami.<br />

Begin the adventure by taking part in the Black/African Diaspora<br />

Heritage Tour in Little Havana. Tour guide Corinna Moebius does an<br />

excellent job of telling the story of Cuba. Your passionate and energetic<br />

tour starts on Calle Ocho (Eighth Street), where you’ll see the Little<br />

Havana Domino Park, where domino and chess matches take place throughout the day.<br />

Authentic hand-rolled Cuban cigars, jewellery, clothing, and art are also there.<br />

While touring Miami, visit the Black Police Precinct Courthouse and Museum. Hear<br />

the fascinating story of how five black men trained in secrecy and were sworn in as the<br />

City of Miami’s first black police officers in 1944.<br />

You’ll enjoy KROMA’s photo gallery and artists’ studios in Coconut Grove. KROMA<br />

Gallery is filled with striking paintings and other works of art.<br />

Visit the Lyric Theater the first Friday of every month for “Lyric Live”, an interactive<br />

talent showcase.<br />

Miami’s rich, diverse cultural mix is reflected in the city’s delicious cuisine. For a variety<br />

of <strong>Caribbean</strong> cuisine, you can dine at Ortanique on the Mile, and munch on Cuban<br />

fare at El Cristo. Indulge in seafood at Bubba Gump Shrimp Co., choose Zest Restaurant<br />

for global cuisine, or visit the Peacock Garden Café for a meal or snack.<br />

If you’ll be in Miami in October, take in the spectacular Miami Broward Carnival<br />

Parade and Concert. Each October, the sweet sound of calypso blares from the music<br />

trucks which parade in the Miami-Dade County Fairgrounds, followed by about fifty<br />

thousand revellers in colourful, seductive costumes. Drink and food stalls dot the fairgrounds,<br />

so you can keep your energy levels up all day and well into the night. As the<br />

sun sets, the crowd drifts towards the stage to hear the pulsating rhythms of <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />

artistes, who perform their newly released music and crowd favourites as well.<br />

Got a place to stay? Hampton Inn &<br />

Suites by Hilton Miami Brickell Downtown<br />

and The Courtyard Cadillac Miami<br />

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you and make your stay unforgettable.<br />

www.gmcvb.com<br />

Hampton Inn & Suites Miami Brickell Downtown: www.hamptoninnmiamibrickell.com<br />

Brava by Brad Kilgore <strong>—</strong> The Arsht Centre: www.arshtcenter.org/Visit/BRAVAbyBradKilgore<br />

Bubba Gump Shrimp Co. at Bayside Marketplace: www.bubbagump.com/locations/miami<br />

Miami-Broward Carnival: www.miamibrowardcarnival.com<br />

Dolphin Mall: www.ShopDolphinMall.com<br />

The Courtyard CADILLAC Miami Beach Oceanfront: www.hotelcadillacmiamibeach.com<br />

Ortanique on the Mile: www.ortaniquerestaurants.com<br />

Black/African Diaspora Heritage Tour of Little Havana: www.littlehavanaguide.com<br />

Historic Black Police Precinct Courthouse and Museum: www.historicalblackprecinct.org<br />

Overtown/Lyric Theatre: www.bahlt.org<br />

Zest Restaurant: www. zestmiami.com<br />

KROMA Gallery: www.kromamiami.com<br />

Peacock Garden Café: www.jaguarhg.com/home-peacock<br />

A player engaged in a game of chess<br />

The annual Miami Broward Carnival is pure<br />

excitement<br />

Expressive artwork at KROMA Gallery


130 • Blue-and-yellow macaw<br />

November/December 2014<br />

Photo by Tracy Starr/Shutterstock.<br />

com<br />

131 • Soca star Bunji Garlin<br />

January/February 2015<br />

Photo by Jonathan Mannion<br />

132 • Guyana’s Kaieteur Falls<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2015<br />

Photo by Pete Oxford<br />

133 • On the coast of St John,<br />

US Virgin Islands<br />

May/June 2015<br />

Photo by cdwheatley/istock.com<br />

136 • Street musician, Havana<br />

November/December 2015<br />

Photo by Atlantide Phototravel/<br />

Corbis<br />

A Cuban street musician <strong>—</strong> performing a trumpet solo,<br />

snazzily attired in brown suit and two-tone shoes <strong>—</strong> was<br />

the cover subject of our November/December 2015 issue.<br />

It was a favourite of Dionne Ligoure, head of corporate<br />

communications for <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines, and a longtime<br />

reader of the magazine. In fact, Ligoure keeps a copy of this<br />

cover on display in her office at the airline’s headquarters.<br />

“Cuba, for me, represents a part of the <strong>Caribbean</strong> that<br />

remains unspoilt,” Ligoure explains. “That photo transports<br />

you to another place and time. It does what music does:<br />

takes you on an imaginative journey. You can’t hear<br />

what the musician in the photo is playing, but you feel<br />

something.”<br />

And what does <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> mean to her, and the<br />

airline? I’m tremendously proud of the magazine,” Ligoure<br />

says. “For the past twenty-five years, <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> has<br />

featured, documented, archived, and highlighted the<br />

accomplishments of <strong>Caribbean</strong> icons throughout the region<br />

and our diaspora.<br />

“<strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines is an authentic <strong>Caribbean</strong> brand.<br />

And <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> is exactly that. It’s a natural, harmonious<br />

alliance. These two authentic elements are fused to<br />

represent the uniqueness of the <strong>Caribbean</strong>, in our ability to<br />

connect people. There’s a consistency and authenticity to<br />

that partnership.”<br />

137 • Carnival blooming<br />

January/February 2016<br />

Photo by Dwayne Watkins<br />

140 • Jamaican sprint legend<br />

Usain Bolt<br />

July/August 2016<br />

Photo by Alexander Hassenstein/<br />

Getty Images<br />

139 • Jaguar<br />

May/June 2016<br />

Photo by Pete Oxford<br />

This pensive jaguar <strong>—</strong> one of South America’s most<br />

magnificent wild creatures <strong>—</strong> made an apt cover for our<br />

May/June 2016 issue, which commemorated Guyana’s<br />

fiftieth anniversary of Independence. Pete Oxford, worldrenowned<br />

wildlife photographer, remembers how he<br />

captured the image. “We were on a boat drifting down the<br />

river, when we spotted this top predator relaxing on the<br />

river bank under the thick jungle canopy. It was obvious that<br />

the animal had had no negative interaction with humans,<br />

as it was totally unafraid and allowed us to come extremely<br />

close. It was both a thrilling and a humbling experience.”<br />

62 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


The brilliant orange paint and traditional design of this<br />

Barbadian chattel house door made an eye-catching cover<br />

for our September/October 2015 issue. It also made for a<br />

heart-warming experience for photographer Corrie Scott:<br />

134 • Coral splendour<br />

July/August 2015<br />

Photo by Rainer von Brandis/<br />

istock.com<br />

138 • Snorkelling in the Bahamas<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2016<br />

Photo by Stephen Frink/Corbis<br />

135 • Chattel house, Barbados<br />

September/October 2015<br />

Photo by Corrie Scott<br />

This freshly painted chattel door caught my eye as I was<br />

driving past, and I just had to stop and capture it. We have<br />

a history of finely crafted chattel houses in Barbados. More<br />

recently we started using bright colours rather than the<br />

traditional brown of past times <strong>—</strong> orange and green being a<br />

popular colour combination in Bim.<br />

Imagine my delight when my chattel house door ended<br />

up on the cover! On receiving the magazine, I<br />

kept it for a few days, then decided the people<br />

who live in the house should have it. Having never<br />

met them, I drove over and knocked. Lisa came<br />

to the door. And her mum. And her son. They<br />

were all delighted. I had already planned to “pay<br />

it forward,” so gave Lisa a percentage of what I<br />

earned for this photograph. Lisa emotionally told<br />

me that the money had come at just the right time.<br />

She hugged me. Gran hugged me, and Son told me<br />

I had to hug him too. So, hugs all round, all of us<br />

crying and laughing. I have now met three more<br />

wonderful Bajans in my island. Feels good. Feels<br />

right.<br />

Sometimes it’s tough<br />

deciding among the options<br />

for a cover subject <strong>—</strong> and<br />

sometimes there’s no contest.<br />

That was exactly the case<br />

with our July/August issue<br />

last year, timed with the 2016<br />

Summer Olympics in Rio de<br />

Janeiro. “No contest” also<br />

describes how some of the<br />

world’s best sprinters must<br />

have felt, knowing they were<br />

up against Usain Bolt in the<br />

men’s 100- and 200-metre<br />

events.<br />

Born in rural Trelawny<br />

Parish, Jamaica, in 1986, Bolt<br />

is the fastest human being on<br />

record, and considered the<br />

greatest sprinter of all time.<br />

Where track and field are<br />

concerned, the past decade<br />

has indisputably been the<br />

Age of Bolt, and it’s hard to<br />

imagine another athlete so<br />

dominating the sport in the<br />

near future.<br />

Few people could have<br />

predicted this unprecedented<br />

victory streak back in 2004,<br />

when Bolt <strong>—</strong> then just shy<br />

of his eighteenth birthday<br />

<strong>—</strong> appeared in the pages of<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> for the first<br />

time. But it was already<br />

clear he was a major talent<br />

<strong>—</strong> writer Kwame Laurence<br />

called him one of the fastest<br />

men alive, previewing the<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong>’s medal hopefuls<br />

in the Athens Olympics.<br />

Slowed by a leg injury, Bolt<br />

didn’t make it past the first<br />

round of heats. But he was<br />

just getting started.<br />

Four years later, this<br />

time previewing the 2008<br />

Olympics in Beijing,<br />

Laurence used the adjective<br />

“phenomenal” three times,<br />

describing Bolt’s medal<br />

prospects. “Forgive the<br />

repetition,” he wrote. But<br />

it was an apt prediction.<br />

Not only did the twentyone-year-old<br />

win both the<br />

100- and 200-metre races,<br />

setting new world records<br />

in both <strong>—</strong> a feat never<br />

before accomplished at the<br />

Olympics <strong>—</strong> but he did it<br />

with an almost inhuman<br />

nonchalance. (His third gold<br />

medal from Beijing, in the<br />

4x100-metre relay, was sadly<br />

revoked earlier this year,<br />

when one of his teammates<br />

was retroactively disqualified<br />

for doping.)<br />

Heading to the 2012<br />

London Olympics, Bolt was<br />

a clear favourite <strong>—</strong> both<br />

with the crowds, who loved<br />

his high-spirited antics,<br />

and to repeat his wins.<br />

He didn’t disappoint. For<br />

Jamaicans, the timing<br />

of the achievement was<br />

especially significant,<br />

coming in the very month<br />

when the nation celebrated<br />

its fiftieth anniversary of<br />

Independence. “I’m now<br />

a legend,” Bolt remarked,<br />

matter-of-factly.<br />

But the truly legendary<br />

feat was in Rio in August<br />

2016. “This will surely be his<br />

last Olympic Games,” wrote<br />

Kwame Laurence, “and he’ll<br />

do everything in his power<br />

to ensure a golden farewell.”<br />

No athlete had ever won the<br />

100-metre event at three<br />

consecutive Olympics, nor<br />

the 200 metres. To win them<br />

both <strong>—</strong> a “triple double”<br />

<strong>—</strong> would once have been<br />

unthinkable. But not, as it<br />

turned out, for Usain Bolt.<br />

WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 63


141 • Antiguan kiteboarding<br />

pioneer Andre Phillip<br />

September/October 2016<br />

Photo by Roddy Grimes-Graeme<br />

January/February <strong>2017</strong><br />

FREE<br />

take-home copy<br />

143 • Young fancy sailor<br />

January/February <strong>2017</strong><br />

Photo by Abigail Hadeed<br />

November/December 2016<br />

FREE<br />

take-home copy<br />

142 • Calypso Rose<br />

November/December 2016<br />

Photo by Richard Holder,<br />

courtesy Stonetree Records<br />

Our oldest cover subject in twenty-five years? That<br />

would be Linda McArtha Sandy-Lewis, the indefatigable<br />

Calypso Rose, who was seventy-six when she fronted our<br />

November/December issue last year. And in this case,<br />

age isn’t just a number, or a bit of trivia <strong>—</strong> it’s evidence<br />

of the longevity of one of the most extraordinary careers<br />

in <strong>Caribbean</strong> music, dating back to the 1950s. When the<br />

Tobago-born calypsonian started her career as a teenager,<br />

calypso was still a macho genre. That she ascended to the<br />

heights of the artform is tribute to her skill as a singer and<br />

composer, her warmth and sincerity on stage, her wicked<br />

lyrics and playful performance style. Audiences adored her,<br />

but it wasn’t until 1978 <strong>—</strong> more than two decades into her<br />

career <strong>—</strong> that she won calypso’s highest honour. They had<br />

to literally rename the Calypso King title for her sake.<br />

The same energy, talent, and dedication that earned her<br />

that groundbreaking accolade are also responsible for the<br />

remarkable resurgence in popularity Rose has experienced<br />

in her eighth decade. Her latest album, Far from Home,<br />

was a surprise hit of summer 2016 in Europe, winning her<br />

thousands of new fans and a growing number of international<br />

awards, as she keeps to a touring schedule many younger<br />

musicians would envy. And her tune “Leave Me Alone” <strong>—</strong><br />

featuring a guest appearance by Machel Montano <strong>—</strong> was yet<br />

another hit on the road at Carnival <strong>2017</strong>.<br />

The credits<br />

Jeremy Taylor, editor, publisher, consulting<br />

editor, 1992–2012 • Joanne Mendes, sales and<br />

admin, 1992–present • Russell Halfhide, designer,<br />

1992–2007 • Geraldine Flower, sales, 1992–2011<br />

• Simone Aché, sales, 1994–1998 • Reneé West,<br />

sales, 1994–1999 • Brendan de Caires, assistant<br />

editor, 1994–1998 • Kevon Webster, design and<br />

layout, 1995–present • Skye Hernandez, assistant<br />

editor and managing editor, 1997–2000 • Beverly<br />

Renwick, sales, 1997–2000 • Hazel Mansing, admin,<br />

1998–present • Donna Benny, managing editor,<br />

2000–2003 • Brigitte Bento-Espinet, assistant<br />

editor, 2000 • Stacy Lalbeharry, editorial assistant,<br />

2000–2005 • Helen Shair-Singh, sales, 2000–2012<br />

• Denise Chin, sales, 2001–2013, 2015–present •<br />

Tracy-Ann Gill, editorial assistant, 2001–2003 •<br />

Dylan Kerrigan, staff writer, 2002–2005 • Nicholas<br />

Laughlin, editor, 2003–2006, 2012–present • Tracy<br />

Assing, assistant editor, 2005–2008 • Sabrina<br />

Vailloo, editorial assistant, 2005–2007 • Laura<br />

Dowrich, assistant editor, 2006–2009 • Mirissa<br />

De Four, editorial assistant, 2006–2011 • Caroline<br />

Taylor, online editor, 2007–present • Judy Raymond,<br />

editor, 2007–2012 • Jacqui Smith, production,<br />

2008–present • Aisha Provoteaux, design and<br />

layout, 2009–2010 • Samantha Rochard, sales,<br />

2009 • Halcyon Salazar, general manager, 2011–<br />

present • Bridget van Dongen, design and layout,<br />

2011–present • Marissa Rodriguez, admin assistant,<br />

2012–2014 • Yuri Chin Choy, sales, 2012–present •<br />

Desiree Seebaran, assistant editor, 2013 • Karen<br />

Washington, sales, 2013–2015 • Cindy Lavia,<br />

editorial intern, 2014–2016 • Shelly-Ann Inniss,<br />

intern and editorial assistant, 2014–present<br />

A quarter-century’s worth of reading<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> has always been free for <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines (and, before<br />

that, BWIA) passengers to take home <strong>—</strong> and many of you have done just<br />

that, collecting each issue as it appears on planes. A full set of all 144<br />

magazines published to date takes up about two and a half feet of shelf<br />

space (and weighs almost a hundred pounds <strong>—</strong> yes, we checked). Readers<br />

hold on to them because many of the articles, profiles, and interviews are<br />

worth revisiting, even decades later. Researchers make reference to the<br />

magazine and teachers use it in classrooms.<br />

But if you haven’t been a <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> reader and collector since 1992<br />

<strong>—</strong> or if you don’t have two and a half feet of shelf space to spare <strong>—</strong> you<br />

can still access our rather vast archive via our website. The magazine first<br />

went online circa 1998. Back then, in the days when no one knew as yet<br />

what the World Wide Web would turn out to be, only a handful of articles<br />

from each issue were posted online, and some HTML hand-coding was<br />

involved. It’s a lot simpler these days. Not only can you read the full contents<br />

of each new issue online, you can also search all the way back to issue<br />

number one in a matter of seconds <strong>—</strong> if, say, your heart is set on finding<br />

every single reference to Machel Montano we’ve ever published.<br />

Now, the archive is a work in progress <strong>—</strong> we’re still digitising some of<br />

the earlier issues. Even so, there are close to 2,500 articles already available,<br />

which makes the <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> website one of the most extensive free<br />

online archives of <strong>Caribbean</strong> culture. Even for our editorial staff, exploring<br />

this archive is always an adventure of discovery and re-discovery.<br />

Find it all at caribbean-beat.com.<br />

64 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


•<br />

•<br />

•<br />

•<br />

•<br />

•<br />


AdvertoriAl<br />

The Bahamas<br />

Festival time in The<br />

Written by Elaine Monica Davis<br />

Bahamas!<br />

Y<br />

ou’ve heard the saying: “It’s<br />

festival time again!” Yes, it’s<br />

a very common expression,<br />

as the <strong>Caribbean</strong> is replete<br />

with festivals of one kind or another <strong>—</strong><br />

celebrating food, drink, culture, dance,<br />

and the list continues. But while festivals<br />

and Carnivals indeed dominate the<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> landscape every month of<br />

the year, the islands of The Bahamas<br />

alone have a smorgasbord of activities,<br />

The islands of The Bahamas have a smorgasbord<br />

of activities, every single beautiful, sun-splashed<br />

month of the calendar year<br />

every single beautiful, sun-splashed<br />

month of the calendar year. But more on<br />

that in another issue!<br />

Right now, looming on our spectacularly<br />

beautiful Bahamian horizon is<br />

Bahamas Junkanoo Carnival <strong>2017</strong>! Yes,<br />

BJC <strong>2017</strong> is almost here. But keep calm<br />

and prepare to travel to The Bahamas<br />

<strong>—</strong> you still have time to be a part of this<br />

absolutely unique, unifying, and ultraspecial<br />

experience that only happens in<br />

The Bahamas.<br />

<strong>April</strong> 28 and 29 will be here before<br />

we know it, and people from all over<br />

the world are looking forward to the<br />

amazing time they will have in Grand<br />

Bahama, with the Carnival Kick Off<br />

scheduled for Taino Beach, Freeport.<br />

Local musical giants like Music Masters<br />

2016 winner Fanshawn Taylor, 2015<br />

winner Sammie Starr, together with Lady<br />

“E” and a host of other mega-talented<br />

Bahamian contenders, will again showcase<br />

their creative, lyrical, and performing<br />

talent to the world.<br />

Who will emerge victorious in the<br />

semi-final competition on the night of<br />

29 <strong>April</strong>? Who will go on to magical<br />

mastery the following week in Nassau,<br />

during the BJC extravaganza from 4 to 6<br />

May? Taino Beach and Da Cultural Village<br />

will host artistic history once again<br />

and lift the eager and excited patrons to<br />

heights as never before.<br />

You cannot afford to miss the op-<br />

portunity to be a part of this stunningly<br />

exhilarating array of cultural creativity,<br />

fabulous food, and romantic relaxation<br />

<strong>—</strong> and be in The Bahamas at the same<br />

time.<br />

So what are you waiting for?<br />

Get online:<br />

bahamasjunkanoocarnival.com<br />

or bahamas.com.<br />

In the <strong>Caribbean</strong>, we fly on <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />

Airlines, direct from Port of Spain,<br />

Trinidad to Lynden Pindling International<br />

Airport, Nassau, on Sundays, Tuesdays,<br />

and Fridays. See you in The Bahamas!<br />

WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 107


ARRIVE<br />

nikhil ramkarran<br />

68 Offtrack<br />

Pakaraima bound<br />

78 Neighbourhood<br />

Bequia, Port Elizabeth<br />

80 Layover<br />

Bridgetown, Barbados<br />

Heading into Guyana’s Pakaraima Mountains<br />

WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 67


Offtrack<br />

Pakaraima<br />

bound<br />

Near Guyana’s border with Venezuela and Brazil, the<br />

Pakaraimas are a spectacular landscape of soaring<br />

tepui mountains and remote valleys. Few outsiders<br />

come here <strong>—</strong> except once a year, during the<br />

Eastertime Pakaraima Mountain Safari. Neil Marks<br />

has been there, done the adventure <strong>—</strong> and can tell<br />

you what to expect<br />

68 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


Rough dirt roads cross the sparsely<br />

populated landscape of the Pakaraimas<br />

nikhil ramkarran<br />

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You don’t have to be a topographer to figure out that Guyana is<br />

unapologetically part of Amazonia. But, just in case you want<br />

to be stubborn and argue beyond impenetrable rainforests,<br />

jaguars, black caimans, and anacondas, the Pakaraima<br />

Mountains will answer any lingering doubts. (For the sake of<br />

free movement of people, trade, dancehall, and soca, however,<br />

we’ll keep our <strong>Caribbean</strong> identity too.)<br />

You may not have heard of the Pakaraimas before <strong>—</strong> but perhaps you’ve<br />

heard of Roraima? Functioning as a triple border between Guyana, Venezuela,<br />

and Brazil, Mount Roraima, with a peak elevation of just over 9,200 feet, sticks<br />

out as the tallest in the family of table-top mountains of the western Guyana<br />

highlands known as the Pakaraimas. These mountains stretch some 250 miles<br />

across, measuring east to west, and the rivers that originate here plunge off<br />

immense cliffs to form some of the most spectacular waterfalls anywhere <strong>—</strong><br />

including the famed Kaieteur, measuring 741 feet from top to bottom, among<br />

the world’s tallest single-drop waterfalls.<br />

Exploring the Pakaraimas offers the allure of unknown terrain, unfamiliar<br />

indigenous Amerindian culture, and the exhilarating feeling that comes with<br />

knowing that just under your feet are rocks hiding deposits of gold, diamonds,<br />

jasper, and other precious minerals. But it takes some amount of <strong>—</strong> well,<br />

balls, to attempt a journey across the tepui plateaus: one literal translation of<br />

Pakaraimas, a Patamona name, is “giant testicles.”<br />

These mountains were formed many millions of years<br />

ago, and are now mostly inhabited by the Patamona, one<br />

of Guyana’s nine remaining Amerindian nations. The name<br />

Patamona itself means “People of the Heavens” <strong>—</strong> and if you<br />

bother to check the elevation and temperature of some of the<br />

villages scattered among these mountains, you’d have to agree.<br />

At night, I swear it feels like below zero in some places. But for<br />

Guyanese, measuring in degrees Celsius or Fahrenheit is just<br />

not done. It’s either “hot” or “cold,” and in the case of some of<br />

these villages, very cold. Once you take up a sleeping position,<br />

you beg your body to stay in place without moving, for fear that<br />

thousands of needle-size icicles will pierce through your skin.<br />

So travelling across the Pakaraimas is no easy feat, but<br />

the annual safari organised around Easter by Rainforest Tours in Georgetown<br />

offers a planned route and instructions on how to survive and enjoy what tour<br />

leader Frank Singh calls “an adventure of a lifetime.” The safari had its genesis<br />

at the turn of the last century, when the Patamona decided to cut roads to<br />

criss-cross their mountains and valleys. Of course, their intention was not to<br />

have curious visitors passing through their villages, but rather to find a way to<br />

trade their farm produce.<br />

The mountains offer fertile ground for agriculture, and the temperatures<br />

lend to the farming of crops that can’t grow on Guyana’s coastland. For<br />

example, a great potato and onion experiment was undertaken a few decades<br />

back, but most of it went to waste because of inadequate infrastructure to<br />

transport it to market in Georgetown. So, using manual labour, the Patamona<br />

created roads to connect villages stretching across two of Guyana’s interior<br />

regions, Eight and Nine, and for the most part made it easier for vehicles other<br />

than tractors and All Terrain Vehicles (ATVs) to traverse the territory.<br />

The first Pakaraima safari was undertaken in 2003, with just about<br />

four vehicles of government officials eyeing the opening of the otherwise<br />

landlocked Pakaraimas. Soon, the safari grew in scale, and it’s now an annual<br />

feature of Guyana’s tourism calendar. These days, the convoy is made up of<br />

about twenty vehicles, including participation by overseas enthusiasts craving<br />

an adventure off the beaten track and an immersion into the customs of the<br />

indigenous Amerindians.<br />

Exploring the<br />

Pakaraimas<br />

offers the allure<br />

of unknown<br />

terrain<br />

70 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


The Pakaraima safari route cuts through<br />

both dense forest and open savannah<br />

nikhil ramkarran<br />

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nikhil ramkarran<br />

Day One: The first day of the safari opens at a fuel station<br />

in the heart of Georgetown, just an hour after midnight <strong>—</strong><br />

the beginning of a gruelling leg of 350 miles. That includes a<br />

two-hour drive on paved roads and then a long, bumpy ride<br />

on laterite dirt roads through the rainforest. But thoughts of<br />

discomfort quickly fade, as you keep watch for wild animals,<br />

such as deer, scampering across the road.<br />

Bathrooms aren’t readily available, so any relief breaks have<br />

to be taken in the forest. And, of course, the forest has snakes. If<br />

that creeps you out, better hold it in until you reach the morning<br />

pit stop, where you can also have a hot breakfast at a little<br />

restaurant built around a timber operation.<br />

The convoy makes an Essequibo River landing at dawn,<br />

in time for the first ferry crossing. The actual ride across the<br />

river takes about fifteen minutes, and then you’re on your way<br />

through the million-hectare Iwokrama protected rainforest,<br />

home to some of the largest animals in South America <strong>—</strong> the<br />

jaguar and the harpy eagle. Jaguars are sometimes spotted<br />

strolling along the same road you’re driving on. Get your camera<br />

out, just in case.<br />

About four hours into daylight, you’ll reach the Oasis, a<br />

roadside lodge for travellers like you passing through the<br />

sprawling open savannahs. Next comes a four-hour stretch<br />

navigating a dirt path to Karasabai, the village where the actual<br />

safari begins. By then, you’ll be beyond tired <strong>—</strong> so set up camp<br />

early, cook, eat, and hit the sack. Camping space is usually on<br />

the grounds of government buildings such as the health centre or<br />

school. You also refuel before it gets dark, and you’re off to sleep.<br />

72 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


The journey<br />

Georgetown to Karasabai:<br />

350 miles<br />

. . . to Tiperu: 21 miles<br />

. . . to Rukumoto: 12 miles<br />

. . . to Morabaiko: 12 miles<br />

. . . to Yurong Paru: 18 miles<br />

. . . to Monkey Mountain: 18 miles<br />

. . . to Tuseneng: 15 miles<br />

. . . to Paramakatoi: 15 miles<br />

. . . to Kato: 11 miles<br />

. . . to Kurukubaru: 12 miles<br />

. . . to Ithabac: 27 miles<br />

. . . to Orinduik Falls: 18 miles<br />

Essequibo River<br />

Guyana<br />

Orinduik<br />

Kurukubaru<br />

Paramakatoi<br />

Kato<br />

Monkey Mountain<br />

Tuseneng<br />

Morabaiko<br />

Yurong Paru<br />

Rukumoto<br />

Teperu<br />

From Georgetown<br />

BRAZIL<br />

Karasabai<br />

What you need<br />

• four-wheel drive vehicle in good condition, preferably<br />

with winch and spare all-terrain tyres<br />

• patching equipment, tow rope, and tool kit<br />

• gasolene or diesel containers, preferably five-gallon size<br />

• fuel hose<br />

• fire extinguisher<br />

• tent or hammock for camping<br />

• battery-powered light<br />

• outdoor gas stove and fuel<br />

• cooking utensils<br />

• food supplies and bottled water<br />

• cutlass, file, and shovel<br />

• first aid kit<br />

Day Two: You wake up in the quiet village of Karasabai,<br />

named for a rock resembling a treasure chest. The story says<br />

the chest was magically transformed into stone by Macunaima,<br />

a legendary being of the Amerindians. Once you set off, about<br />

fifteen minutes outside Karasabai, you spot Beena Mountain,<br />

where you can find almost all of the herbs used by village elders<br />

in the initiation rites <strong>—</strong> the indigenous education system <strong>—</strong> to<br />

prepare a boy to take on life in the jungle. If you want to explore<br />

the mountain yourself, please ask the local village leaders, as it<br />

is taboo to visit on your own.<br />

Travelling across mostly open savannah, you reach the<br />

villages of Teperu and Rukumoto. Rukumoto literally means<br />

“the place of Ruku” <strong>—</strong> a multicoloured caterpillar, considered<br />

a delicacy in these parts. It has a nutty taste once boiled or<br />

smoked. They come out during the May/June rains, so you may<br />

not see any during the safari, but you can ask locals if they have<br />

any left over from last year. In the afternoon, you arrive at the<br />

village of Morabaiko, to spend the night.<br />

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Day Three: Departing Morabaiko, you emerge to incredible<br />

mountain vistas, as you enter the villages of Yurong Paru, and<br />

then cross the Echillibar River to get to Monkey Mountain, one<br />

of the larger Pakaraima communities <strong>—</strong> named for the seasonal<br />

migration of monkeys from the northwest to the Kanuku<br />

Mountains to the south.<br />

The people of Monkey Mountain are multilingual <strong>—</strong> they<br />

speak Patamona, Macushi, and Portuguese, as well as English.<br />

A nearby waterfall allows you to cool off after the hot and dusty<br />

drive. Locals search for the precious minerals found in the area<br />

and use them to trade for fish and meat with Brazilians in nearby<br />

border villages such as Mutum.<br />

East of Monkey Mountain is Taruka, a relatively new village,<br />

originally formed by Brazilian Amerindians fleeing harsh<br />

conditions in their country. During the great Rupununi uprising<br />

of the late 1960s, most of the villagers returned to Brazil.<br />

Day Four: Leaving Monkey Mountain, you come to rustcoloured<br />

Tuseneng, founded by Archibald Scipio, the son of<br />

an itinerant black balata bleeder and an Amerindian woman.<br />

Because of Scipio’s appearance, he wasn’t readily accepted<br />

by his community <strong>—</strong> so he moved to the area that is now<br />

Tuseneng. Gradually, others joined him and formed the village.<br />

Having been adopted by his mother’s side of the family, Scipio<br />

went through the full crucible of training for Amerindian boys.<br />

Eventually he became a piai man, or local doctor.<br />

Passing the Kawa River (which is dry most of the time, but<br />

can rise to chest-deep in the rainy season), you reach Bamboo<br />

Creek for a brief stop, and then arrive at Paramakatoi. At an<br />

elevation of 2,500 feet, PK <strong>—</strong> as it’s called for short <strong>—</strong> is named<br />

for a wild guava found in the area. Branches from the trees are<br />

used to make arrows. If you want a bit of historical intrigue, ask<br />

the villagers for Macaw Cave, where you can see an urn with<br />

ancestral skeletal remains.<br />

From PK, the safari leads straight to Kato. With its setting<br />

like a natural postcard, Kato was the location of that experiment<br />

in growing potatoes and onions. The waterfalls nearby are<br />

earmarked for a future hydro-power project that will give<br />

electricity to the village.<br />

michael lam<br />

74 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


Chiung Falls near the village of Kato<br />

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nikhil ramkarran<br />

Day Five: After overnighting at Kato, you depart for<br />

Kurukubaru <strong>—</strong> thought to be the most elevated village in<br />

Guyana. So you’ll understand why it has the nickname “Cold,<br />

Cold Baru.” As in all indigenous villages, be mindful of local<br />

customs. On my first visit, many years ago, when I took out my<br />

digital camera, the older folks literal ran. Best to ask permission<br />

for anything you want to do.<br />

The people of Kurukubaru, as across the Pakaraimas, are<br />

charming and shy. Ask a question and they may bow their heads,<br />

giggling. But when you walk off, you may hear them whispering<br />

in the Patamona tongue.<br />

Past Kurukubaru, you’ll come to Kamana village,<br />

and if you have the time and are a history buff, you’ll<br />

want to ask about the trail where you can find battle<br />

implements (such as clubs with spikes) and skeletal<br />

remains, testifying to tribal wars of long ago. There<br />

are also rock formations that are said to represent the<br />

victories of various tribes.<br />

Finally, from Kamana you travel to the last stop:<br />

Orinduik Falls on the Ireng River, which forms the<br />

border here between Guyana and Brazil. The falls<br />

are named after a water weed which <strong>—</strong> if uprooted,<br />

dried, burned, and mixed with honey <strong>—</strong> forms a sort of<br />

chewing gum that’s prized for its euphoric properties.<br />

So I’m told <strong>—</strong> I’ve never tried it myself.<br />

You’d be crazy not to indulge in a refreshing bath<br />

at the falls <strong>—</strong> where the river flows over outcrops of<br />

jasper <strong>—</strong> before heading to the small airstrip to catch your flight<br />

back to Georgetown. Unless you’re heading back out overland,<br />

as you came. With just brief stops along the way, the return drive<br />

takes three days to get back to Georgetown. However you end<br />

your safari, before you leave, consider leaving a gift for your<br />

Patamona hosts <strong>—</strong> to reciprocate their kind hospitality. n<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines operates regular flights to Cheddi<br />

Jagan International Airport in Georgetown from<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> and North American destinations<br />

miles of unspoilt rainforest | kayaking, paddling, canoeing | horseback riding | safari<br />

wildlife watching | birdwatching | sports fishing | community tourism | trekking<br />

3 Rupununi Music & Arts Festival, Georgetown<br />

12 Phagwah Festival, National Stadium<br />

12 Phagwah Celebration, National Holiday Country<br />

19 Horse Racing, Kennard Memorial Turf<br />

24 Linden Expo & Trade Fair, Linden<br />

24 Wedding Expo <strong>2017</strong>, Georgetown<br />

25 ‘Clash of the Titans’ Show, National Stadium<br />

7 Easter Seawall Art Festival, Georgetown<br />

9 Pakaraima Mountain Safari, Pakaraima Mt.<br />

14 Region 5 Expo & Trade Fair, Berbice<br />

15 Bartica Easter Regatta, Bartica<br />

15 Rupununi Rodeo, Lethem<br />

17 Easter Monday, Countrywide<br />

28 Guyana Restaurant Week, Georgetown<br />

76 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


NEIGHBOURHOOD<br />

wilfred dederer<br />

Port Elizabeth,<br />

Bequia<br />

More village than town, the capital of<br />

Bequia <strong>—</strong> second-largest of the Grenadine<br />

Islands <strong>—</strong> is a haven for both yachties,<br />

beach-lovers, and artists alike<br />

Streetscape<br />

For many visitors, Bequia begins with arrival at the ferry terminal in<br />

Port Elizabeth. “Front Street,” as the main road along the waterfront<br />

is known, is the centre of activity: from the island’s administration<br />

building and post office to the vegetable market to historic<br />

St Mary’s Anglican church (at right), rebuilt after a hurricane in 1829.<br />

Residential neighbourhoods climb the steep surrounding hills. South<br />

of Port Elizabeth, the Belmont Walkway runs along the coast, lined<br />

by restaurants, bars, and small hotels, in the direction of Princess<br />

Margaret Beach, the island’s most famous swimming spot. Heading<br />

the other way, north, the coast road leads to the remains of Hamilton<br />

Fort, situated to command the entrance to the bay.<br />

wilfred dederer<br />

History<br />

With its indigenous name meaning “island of the<br />

clouds,” Bequia was originally settled by Caribs,<br />

before coming under French colonial control. Ceded<br />

to Britain in 1763, along with the other Grenadines,<br />

St Vincent, and Grenada, Bequia was planted with<br />

sugarcane and arrowroot, while Admiralty Bay on<br />

the island’s west coast was considered the safest<br />

harbour in the southern British West Indies. Port<br />

Elizabeth, never large, nonetheless became an<br />

important centre for boatbuilding and ship repairs.<br />

In the 1960s and 70s, as the Grenadines were<br />

“discovered” by wealthy tourists, the economy<br />

of Bequia and its capital shifted from fishing and<br />

seafaring to tourism <strong>—</strong> helped by the gorgeous<br />

beaches and dive sites close offshore.<br />

78 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


Plans to hatch<br />

Found throughout the world’s oceans, but<br />

critically endangered in all its habitats, the<br />

hawksbill sea turtle finds a special refuge in<br />

Bequia, thanks to the efforts of the Old Hegg<br />

Turtle Sanctuary. Founded by retired fisherman<br />

Orton “Brother” King, the Old Hegg sanctuary<br />

collects hawksbill hatchlings at the moment they<br />

emerge from their nests on Bequia’s beaches<br />

<strong>—</strong> at the time of their greatest vulnerability to<br />

predators. Normally, as few as one hawksbill<br />

hatchling in a thousand survives to breeding<br />

age. Reared in sheltered ponds until they grow<br />

to fourteen inches, Old Hegg’s young turtles get<br />

a headstart against those odds. And visitors’<br />

donations keep the whole thing going.<br />

czekma13/istock.com<br />

Souvenir<br />

As you’d expect in a small island with a strong seafaring tradition, Bequia is<br />

home to numerous expert boatbuilders, as you can see at the island’s Boat<br />

Museum (above). And though a full-scale vessel isn’t a very practical gift<br />

to take home, Bequia’s woodworkers also create intricately detailed model<br />

boats, replicating all the details of a seaworthy craft at miniature scale, down<br />

to the sails and rigging. For examples, check Mauvin’s and the Sargeant<br />

Brothers’ model boat shops, near the vegetable market in Port Elizabeth.<br />

For such a small island, Bequia is also home to an unusually large and<br />

active community of artists, local and expat, working in media ranging from<br />

painting to textiles and ceramics, and often inspired by the lush landscape,<br />

history, and traditions of the island community.<br />

Many artists welcome studio visits, and the<br />

Oasis Gallery along the Belmont Walkway is a<br />

good place to get your bearings.<br />

wilfred dederer<br />

Co-ordinates<br />

13.0º N 61.2º W<br />

Sea level<br />

bEQUIA<br />

wilfred dederer<br />

Port Elizabeth<br />

Appetite<br />

From elegant French-inspired cuisine to hearty, zesty creole fare, Port<br />

Elizabeth and its surroundings have a more diverse dining scene than<br />

you might expect on an island of just six thousand inhabitants. Seafood<br />

is naturally the star attraction <strong>—</strong> especially lobster, in season, when<br />

you can enjoy it at the upscale Auberge de Grenadines or on a pizza at<br />

Mac’s. Frangipani is famous for its Thursday night barbecue <strong>—</strong> all you<br />

can eat, with live steelpan music. For a memorable meal in breathtaking<br />

surroundings, head out of town and up to Mount Pleasant, Bequia’s<br />

highest point, where The Old Fort hotel is centred around a historic<br />

French-built stone mansion, and dinner comes with a gentle breeze and<br />

view of the twinkling lights of the other Grenadines in the distance.<br />

From <strong>March</strong> <strong>2017</strong>, <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines<br />

operates direct flights to Argyle International<br />

Airport in St Vincent, with connections via<br />

ferry and other airlines to Bequia<br />

WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 79


LAYOVER<br />

Anton_Ivanov/shutterstock.com<br />

One of the <strong>Caribbean</strong>’s most popular tourist destinations, Barbados is host to<br />

approximately 600,000 stayover visitors each year <strong>—</strong> more than twice the country’s<br />

permanent population <strong>—</strong> yet somehow manages to never feel overrun. And at just<br />

twenty-one miles by fourteen, the island is small enough to get the gist of on a brief trip.<br />

You can cover a lot of ground here in just half a day.<br />

A major hub for international flights into the<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong>, Barbados is also one of the region’s<br />

most developed tourist destinations. Our guide to<br />

exploring the island when time is tight<br />

Philip Willcocks/shutterstock.com<br />

Philip Willcocks/istock.com<br />

Grantley Adams International Airport,<br />

located near Barbados’s southern tip, is<br />

a mere couple of miles from the heavily<br />

populated stretch of the south coast<br />

between Oistins and Bridgetown. Here<br />

you’ll find hotels, restaurants, and shops<br />

galore <strong>—</strong> but also two of the island’s<br />

most popular beaches, Accra and Dover.<br />

Even a few spare hours are enough to<br />

pop down for a swim.<br />

After a long spell on a plane, a bit of a stroll<br />

is never a bad thing. And one of Barbados’s<br />

most pleasant promenades is the south<br />

coast boardwalk, opened a few years ago<br />

and already an irreplaceable feature of the<br />

island’s landscape. Running from Accra Beach<br />

to the southern outskirts of Bridgetown, the<br />

boardwalk offers sea views and sea breezes,<br />

access to beaches, benches, and picnic areas.<br />

LU LIN/shutterstock.com<br />

When Bajans refer to “the Gap,” they<br />

don’t mean a brand of khaki trousers.<br />

They’re talking about St Lawrence<br />

Gap, a street on the south coast<br />

running along the shore, and one of<br />

Barbados’s nightlife hotspots. You’ll<br />

find it all here: high-end restaurants,<br />

dive bars, karaoke joints, an Irish pub,<br />

plus Italian, French, Mexican, and local<br />

cuisine. Just one night to spend on the<br />

town? The Gap is your one-stop shop.<br />

Anneli Salo/wikimedia commons<br />

The tides of history bring strange flotsam.<br />

Did you know the last descendant of the<br />

emperors of Byzantium, a gentleman<br />

by the name of Ferdinando Paleologus,<br />

ended his days in Barbados in 1678? You<br />

can see his tombstone in the graveyard of<br />

St John’s Parish Church, with its stunning<br />

views across the east coast <strong>—</strong> a short drive<br />

from the airport, but a long journey back<br />

through time.<br />

Let’s sidestep the contentious question<br />

of whether rum was actually invented in<br />

Barbados. The fact is, the fiery beverage<br />

has been distilled here for over 350 years<br />

<strong>—</strong> and if you’re looking for a crash course<br />

in rumology, you can get it in just fortyfive<br />

minutes at the Mount Gay Distillery<br />

on the Bridgetown waterfront. The tour<br />

includes a bit of history, a bit of science,<br />

and a bit of taste-testing.<br />

courtesy mount gay distillery<br />

80 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


ENGAGE<br />

Bettmann / getty images<br />

82 Inspire<br />

Inner-city art<br />

86<br />

On This Day<br />

Calypso with a<br />

conscience<br />

84 Green<br />

Progress report<br />

Cultural and political icon Harry Belafonte in the 1950s


INSPIRE<br />

Innercity<br />

art<br />

When a group of young artists<br />

decided to start a public mural project<br />

in downtown Kingston, it wasn’t just<br />

about beautifying one of Jamaica’s<br />

most deprived neighbourhoods. It<br />

was also an experiment in creating<br />

opportunities for the local community,<br />

as Tanya Batson-Savage finds out<br />

Photography by Matthew Henry<br />

The shell of the old Toyota warehouse at 41 Fleet Street is a ghost<br />

from a bygone era. But concrete skeletons are nothing rare in<br />

downtown Kingston, even as the Jamaican capital shows signs of<br />

a revival. Buried in southside Kingston, a javelin’s throw away from<br />

the Rae Town neighbourhood, a few years ago Fleet Street was a<br />

part of Kingston outsiders were told to avoid.<br />

But today 41 Fleet Street attracts growing interest from Kingstonians and<br />

foreign visitors alike. That interest comes in the wake of Paint Jamaica, a project<br />

that transformed the abandoned warehouse into a creative mecca. Now, new<br />

life, energy, and interest have been brought back to the community, outlining the<br />

transformative power of art. The old warehouse, the Paint Jamaica flagship, bears<br />

uplifting murals with messages of hope and change. It is more than a beautiful<br />

space. Though roofless, which is a part of its charm, the Fleet Street warehouse has<br />

become a space for members of the community to stage events and hold meetings,<br />

and several musicians have made it a space to shoot music videos.<br />

Paint Jamaica is more a movement than a foundation, but its foundations are<br />

rock solid: using art to create and inspire change. While the idea took root after<br />

a meeting between its founder, French-Egyptian Marianna Farag, and Jamaican<br />

artist Matthew McCarthy, its collective vision is touted as the reason for its success.<br />

As it currently stands, Paint Jamaica is an undefined collective, which in part<br />

came to life via social media, particularly a Facebook page. Farag and McCarthy<br />

met during the 2013 New Roots exhibition at the<br />

National Gallery of Jamaica, where McCarthy’s<br />

striking graffiti-style art festooned the walls.<br />

Their conversation revealed a shared interest<br />

in art as a tool for transformation and change.<br />

Paint Jamaica epitomises the possibilities<br />

of a grassroots movement in the digital era.<br />

Along with the Facebook page, which facilitated<br />

discussions, the project used an online signup<br />

sheet for volunteers and raised most of its<br />

budget through crowdfunding. These funds<br />

were offset by in-kind donations from Jamaican<br />

companies. But ensuring that the project is<br />

steered by the needs of the community, rather<br />

than the desires of a corporate sponsor, was an<br />

important consideration.<br />

“<br />

There’s a side to Jamaica that has<br />

been left out of the conversation,<br />

and this project allows them to be<br />

a part of the conversation again,” McCarthy<br />

says. That conversation has been critical to<br />

Paint Jamaica’s sustainability, and the fact that<br />

it remains an important part of the community<br />

two years after execution. McCarthy explains<br />

that the participating artists walked through the<br />

community for weeks prior to the actual painting,<br />

to ensure their ideas and interests were reflected<br />

in the space. It was a process they repeated<br />

before painting the murals now garnishing the<br />

walls of the Holy Family Primary School, also<br />

in the same community. “If you don’t speak to<br />

82 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


we got there,” McCarthy explains. “What we’re<br />

doing is reviving Kingston to what it used to be.”<br />

As McCarthy points out, Paint Jamaica is not<br />

the first attempt to use street art for transformation<br />

in Kingston. He points to the work of Rosie Chung<br />

of Studio 174, and Alison Perkins, who conducted<br />

the Red Rubberband painting project through the<br />

Kingston on the Edge (KOTE) festival. Still, Paint<br />

Jamaica has easily been the most successful. “Not<br />

only do you paint something, but you also attract<br />

the attention of other people who wanted to do<br />

something,” McCarthy says. Indeed, the project<br />

would not have been successful without throngs<br />

of volunteers from the community and outside<br />

it. Working on the project also significantly<br />

boosted the skills of the individual artists in<br />

creating murals, as well as better understanding<br />

A girl from the neighbourhood,<br />

posing here with<br />

her friend, discovers an uncanny<br />

resemblance in artist<br />

Matthew Henry’s mural<br />

the people in the community, you don’t get the authentic story,”<br />

McCarthy says.<br />

Additionally, Paint Jamaica has benefitted from a democratic<br />

process among the artists. The group found themselves inspired<br />

by the 2011 Arab Spring and its germination via Facebook. So<br />

they too started a Facebook page, and invited other interested<br />

artists to share and participate.<br />

One key element is that interest in the Fleet Street project has<br />

leveraged opportunities for both the artists who have worked on<br />

the project and members of the community as well. One of these<br />

is Life Yard, an ital (i.e. vegetarian) cookshop that operates just<br />

across the street from the warehouse. Apart from benefitting<br />

from patronage by visitors to the mural, Life Yard has also been<br />

hired to cater events outside the neighbourhood.<br />

And members of the community are getting exposure and<br />

making connections and gaining opportunities previously<br />

closed off to them, because of the music videos and photo shoots<br />

taking place there. “There are a lot of artistic people in the<br />

community, and they’ve been practicing their craft long before<br />

Paint Jamaica is more<br />

a movement than a<br />

foundation, but its<br />

foundations are rock solid:<br />

using art to create and<br />

inspire change<br />

how to run art projects aimed at stimulating<br />

development.<br />

Yet, despite the project’s success, Paint<br />

Jamaica has been deliberately slow in proliferation<br />

across the island. “It was alluring to go everywhere, but it was<br />

also beautiful to stay there and watch the community grow,”<br />

McCarthy says. “Many people consider me a painter, but I<br />

personally consider myself a social engineer.”<br />

Interestingly, Paint Jamaica was born after the police had<br />

systematically removed murals of fallen “dons” from the walls<br />

of several communities throughout Kingston. McCarthy admits<br />

that the decision to pursue the project was a direct response<br />

to that. “We try to do things that will have an impact because<br />

they are a response to other things that are happening,” he says.<br />

“This project is a very diplomatic project. We don’t do anything<br />

because we think it should be done, we do it because we feel it<br />

must be done. The neglect was unreasonable. I don’t think any<br />

community should suffer from this kind of neglect.”<br />

For Paint Jamaica, its greatest impact will not simply be how<br />

it transforms one community, but rather how it inspires others<br />

to do the same. “I want to make sure that every artist feels the<br />

current of this project,” McCarthy says, “that they can do this<br />

too. We were just a set of average Joes on Facebook.” n<br />

WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 83


GREEN<br />

Progress<br />

report<br />

Over the past twenty-five years,<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> has frequently reported on<br />

environmental projects across the region.<br />

But what’s the real state of progress when<br />

it comes to protecting our natural resources,<br />

our coastlines and reefs, the air we breathe<br />

and water we drink? Nazma Muller talks<br />

to two experts about the lie of the land <strong>—</strong><br />

The <strong>Caribbean</strong> is treasured<br />

and revered globally<br />

as one of the world’s<br />

most biologically diverse<br />

regions, with more than<br />

twelve thousand marine<br />

species, ten per cent of the world’s coral<br />

reefs, and fifteen thousand plant species. But<br />

the last quarter century has seen significant<br />

damage to our natural environment, as a<br />

result of increased industrialisation and<br />

automation, the use of chemicals and<br />

toxins, and consumption of commodities<br />

like plastics, electronics, appliances,<br />

Styrofoam, meat, and packaging.<br />

Fortunately, the <strong>Caribbean</strong> has also<br />

made huge strides in raising awareness<br />

of the effects our human activities<br />

are having on our once-pristine<br />

and the way forward<br />

Photography by Gail Johnson/Shutterstock.com<br />

waters, as well as our air, land, and<br />

wildlife. Across the region, more of our<br />

people are beginning to comprehend<br />

the true extent of the vulnerability of<br />

our coastlines and the mounting threats<br />

they face, particularly climate change.<br />

Ocean warming and acidification have<br />

contributed to a dramatic loss of coral<br />

reefs, which are invaluable habitats for<br />

fish and other marine life.<br />

“We are seeing so much contamination<br />

of our water, air pollution <strong>—</strong> and flooding<br />

is becoming more frequent because of<br />

natural disasters, so there is greater<br />

awareness by politicians and decisionmakers<br />

about environmental issues,”<br />

explains Christopher Corbin, programme<br />

officer for the <strong>Caribbean</strong> Environment<br />

Programme. CEP was established by the<br />

United Nations Environment Programme<br />

(UNEP) in 1981, within the framework of<br />

its Regional Seas Programme.<br />

“Up until more recently, a lot of the<br />

environmental issues were communicated<br />

in a scientific way,” Corbin adds. “It’s been<br />

all the things that the public should not<br />

do, and not necessarily providing them<br />

with alternatives. Gradually, we are<br />

seeing a lot more participatory planning,<br />

so we are moving in the right direction.”<br />

For the <strong>Caribbean</strong> private sector,<br />

engagement in environmental issues has<br />

not been driven by government policy<br />

and enforcement, says Corbin. <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />

governments have lagged behind in<br />

implementing policies to protect the<br />

environment. Tourism has been a doubleedged<br />

sword for many of our territories,<br />

further burdening inadequate solid waste<br />

management and sanitation systems.<br />

“But they are becoming more aware of<br />

their impact on the environment,” Corbin<br />

says. “Hotels that want to attract a certain<br />

kind of visitor are moving to incorporate<br />

sustainable practices on their properties<br />

<strong>—</strong> for example, they will do what is<br />

necessary by international standards to<br />

be deemed ‘green.’ They are recognising<br />

the benefits of going green.”<br />

As our regional economists better<br />

comprehend the effects of environmental<br />

84 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


Mangrove-lined seashore in Bonaire<br />

accounting, we are seeing the private<br />

sector make an effort to incorporate<br />

practices such as reusing waste water<br />

and cutting down on packaging. It’s<br />

simply not in their interest to have a dirty<br />

beach, polluted waters, or dead reefs.<br />

But “the industrial land-based private<br />

sector still needs a lot more work,”<br />

Corbin says. Governments have a very<br />

important role to play <strong>—</strong> by offering<br />

certain incentives to undertake pollution<br />

prevention measures, such as retrofitting<br />

factories and implementing disincentives<br />

to waste production.<br />

While it’s imperative to find<br />

economic opportunities for<br />

our people, in the face of<br />

limited resources, high debt ratios, and<br />

vulnerabilility to natural disasters, much<br />

can be done by focusing on the type of<br />

development agenda <strong>Caribbean</strong> countries<br />

subscribe to, Corbin believes. And, he<br />

says, our governments are beginning<br />

to articulate their interest in a “blue<br />

economy” and a “green economy.” “We<br />

are seeing a new kind of thinking,” he<br />

says. “What we need now are land use<br />

development plans that maximise what<br />

developed countries have already started<br />

to do <strong>—</strong> urban farms, clean energy, etc. We<br />

need to be more open and imaginative, but<br />

we also need to have better enforcement<br />

of laws that protect the environment.” If<br />

policies aren’t enforced, Corbin says, it’s<br />

not going to work.<br />

For most countries in the region except<br />

oil- and gas-rich Trinidad and Tobago, the<br />

costs of continued use of fossil fuels are<br />

a major issue, Corbin says. “We have<br />

thermal, solar, and wind energy in use<br />

already in the <strong>Caribbean</strong>. There is a real<br />

opportunity for us to embrace alternative<br />

energy and move forward.”<br />

Considering the big-picture question of<br />

climate change, Donna Blake, the Nature<br />

Conservancy’s Jamaica programme<br />

director, is hopeful. “Governments<br />

and communities are taking action to<br />

proactively address the challenges of<br />

climate change,” she says. She points out<br />

that at the regional level the establishment<br />

of the <strong>Caribbean</strong> Community (CARICOM)<br />

Climate Change Centre, which focuses<br />

solely on climate change education and<br />

adaptation projects, is a noteworthy<br />

advance.<br />

The Nature Conservancy itself has<br />

designed programmes to work with coastal<br />

communities facing climate-related risks.<br />

“At the Water’s Edge,” a collaborative<br />

project with the International Federation<br />

of the Red Cross, builds resilience in<br />

communities in Grenada and St Vincent<br />

and the Grenadines by empowering<br />

people to assess the social, ecological,<br />

and economic risks of climate change,<br />

and make informed decisions about how<br />

to use their resources sustainably. The<br />

initiative provides decision-making tools<br />

and training for nature-based climate<br />

resilience strategies, such as coastal<br />

mangrove restoration.<br />

“It’s easy to take nature for granted, and<br />

all that it provides us in the <strong>Caribbean</strong>,”<br />

Blake says. “But when threats become<br />

apparent and natural disasters grow<br />

more prevalent, we quickly and sharply<br />

feel the loss of security in our natural<br />

environment that we may have once felt.”<br />

Her experience suggests that as<br />

people learn more they find their voice<br />

Across the <strong>Caribbean</strong>, more of our people are<br />

beginning to comprehend the true extent of the<br />

vulnerability of our coastlines<br />

and are able to be involved in solutions.<br />

They have the information to support,<br />

or question if needs be, decisions made<br />

by governments and the private sector,<br />

because they understand the long-term<br />

implications of changes to policy or<br />

business practices. “Moving forward, I<br />

believe people will have the knowledge<br />

to drive sufficient demand for cleaner<br />

energy, more efficient use of resources,<br />

and climate-adaptive policies regarding<br />

coastal development, tourism, and<br />

fishing. So in another twenty-five years,<br />

the human footprint across the <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />

will take a far more sustainable shape.” n<br />

WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 85


on this day<br />

Calypso with a<br />

conscience<br />

Celebrating his ninetieth birthday<br />

this year, Harry Belafonte has<br />

built a stellar career around<br />

two themes that may at<br />

first appear at odds:<br />

popular entertainment<br />

and political activism. As<br />

James Ferguson explains,<br />

both aspects are rooted<br />

in Belafonte’s Jamaican<br />

background and his early<br />

years in Kingston<br />

Illustration by Rohan Mitchell<br />

In 1956, the year in which Elvis Presley topped the US<br />

singles chart with “Heartbreak Hotel”, America’s bestselling<br />

album was neither by Presley nor by the likes of Little<br />

Richard or Chuck Berry <strong>—</strong> but by a rather more unlikely<br />

superstar. Harry Belafonte’s Calypso remained at number<br />

one for thirty-one consecutive weeks, and was the first LP<br />

in US history to sell more than a million copies. The improbability<br />

of its success lay not in the artist’s talents (the good-looking<br />

and suave Belafonte was a consummate crooner), but more in the<br />

fact that the album showcased aspects of what was then littleknown<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> popular culture <strong>—</strong> and that the performer was<br />

an American-born political militant close to Martin Luther King,<br />

Jr, and the communist sympathiser Paul Robeson.<br />

The two main themes of Belafonte’s long and distinguished<br />

career <strong>—</strong> entertainment and activism <strong>—</strong> may at first glance<br />

appear contradictory. Surely the superficiality of popular music<br />

and Broadway offers a bad fit with the seriousness of the struggle<br />

for civil rights and socialism? Not necessarily. Both sides of<br />

Belafonte’s life can be traced back to his early years in New York<br />

and Jamaica, and both are very much interrelated.<br />

Harold George Bellanfanti was born ninety years ago this<br />

month, on 1 <strong>March</strong>, 1927, in Harlem. His parents were both<br />

of Jamaican origin: his maternal grandparents were a black<br />

sharecropper from St Ann parish and a white woman of Scottish<br />

descent, while his father’s parents were a black Jamaican<br />

woman and, in Belafonte’s own words, “a white Dutch Jew who’d<br />

drifted over to the islands after chasing gold and diamonds,<br />

86 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


with no luck at all, in the newly formed colonies of West Africa.”<br />

The family was thus a microcosm of the <strong>Caribbean</strong> melting pot<br />

formed by generations of migration and slavery, and the young<br />

Belafonte was brought up aware of all the nuances of colour to<br />

be found in the region.<br />

In her book Becoming Belafonte, Judith E. Smith describes<br />

the daily hardships of poverty and racism confronting young<br />

Harry and his parents, Millie and Harold, Sr, in 1930s New York.<br />

Work was precarious, accommodation often squalid, and after<br />

a younger brother, Dennis, was born, Harry’s father began to<br />

distance himself from the family. As illegal migrants, they lived<br />

in fear of deportation, and the name Bellanfanti was changed<br />

to Belafonte to throw immigration agents off the scent. Fearful<br />

for her older son in a climate of rising racial tension, Millie sent<br />

him to her mother in Jamaica for a year in 1934. Then in 1936,<br />

as the Depression intensified, Millie took her two sons back to<br />

Jamaica again, enrolling them in separate schools, where they<br />

would stay until 1940.<br />

This early experience was to prove life-changing. Far from<br />

the raucous street life of Harlem, Belafonte was subjected<br />

to the stifling conformity of British colonial society and its<br />

anachronistic education system. He was, writes Smith, forced to<br />

eat in the kitchen when guests came to dinner at his aunt’s house,<br />

considered too dark-skinned for polite society. To this ostracism<br />

was added his witnessing of woeful social conditions, the labour<br />

strikes in Kingston in 1938 (“a violent peasant uprising,” he said),<br />

and their inevitable repression.<br />

Even as Harry Belafonte was<br />

introducing an often suspicious<br />

American public to a non-white<br />

world, he was subtly challenging<br />

any misconceptions about the<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong><br />

But if Belafonte’s sense of injustice was fuelled by these years,<br />

so too was his appreciation of the <strong>Caribbean</strong>’s diverse musical<br />

landscape. Kingston was alive with music, particularly mento,<br />

the gentle acoustic predecessor of ska that was loved by cruise<br />

ship tourists. There was also calypso from Trinidad, enormously<br />

popular in Jamaica, and full of acerbic political commentary.<br />

Belafonte had previously been fascinated by the swing music of<br />

Duke Ellington and New York’s vibrant black culture, and now<br />

he experienced at first hand the sounds of the <strong>Caribbean</strong> and<br />

South America.<br />

Returning to Harlem aged thirteen, Belafonte again faced<br />

poverty and prejudice. He dropped out of school, did menial<br />

jobs, and eventually enlisted in the navy. A chance encounter<br />

led him to watch a performance by the American Negro Theatre.<br />

Friendly with Bahamian Sidney Poitier, he studied acting at New<br />

York’s prestigious New School (where contemporaries included<br />

Poitier, Walter Matthau, and Marlon Brando). This he paid for by<br />

singing in clubs. His first single, “Matilda”, was a hit calypso of<br />

1953, in which he lamented: “Hey! Ma-til-da; Ma-til-da; Ma-tilda,<br />

she take me money and run a-Venezuela.”<br />

It was the million-selling album of three years later, however,<br />

that earned him the title of “King of Calypso” <strong>—</strong> a title with<br />

which he admitted he felt uneasy. The songs on the Calypso LP,<br />

he pointed out, “weren’t calypso at all <strong>—</strong> even though everybody<br />

seems to have hung that tag on them.” And he was an American,<br />

not a Trinidadian <strong>—</strong> the true prerequisite for calypso royalty.<br />

More particularly, his signature song, “Day-O (The Banana<br />

Boat Song)”, may have been thought of as a calypso, but in reality<br />

its roots lay in mento and, further back, as a traditional call-andresponse<br />

folk song performed by Jamaica’s banana workers as<br />

they loaded the cargo onto United Fruit boats. The song records<br />

the workers’ fatigue after a night’s work, their desire to go home,<br />

and their impatient wait for “Mister tally man” to record their<br />

work rate and pay:<br />

Work all night on a drink of rum<br />

Daylight come and me wan’ go home<br />

Stack banana till de mornin’ come<br />

Daylight come and me wan’ go home<br />

Far from repeating the clichés of the <strong>Caribbean</strong> idyll, the song<br />

evoked a gruelling and thankless job where the “deadly black<br />

tarantula” posed a real threat. In this sense, while spectacularly<br />

successful in commercial terms, it also introduced the listener to<br />

a world in which poverty and hard work coexisted.<br />

Nor did the 1957 film Island in the Sun, in which Belafonte<br />

appeared and sang the title song, present a sugar-coated version<br />

of the <strong>Caribbean</strong>. The film explores the political and racial<br />

tensions between the old colonial order and a newly powerful<br />

nationalist movement exemplified by Belafonte’s ambitious<br />

character, the politician David Boyeur. Again, the song is less<br />

about “paradise” than tough economic reality:<br />

I see woman on bended knee<br />

Cutting cane for her family<br />

I see man at the waterside<br />

Casting nets at the surging tide<br />

Even as Harry Belafonte was introducing an often suspicious<br />

American public to a non-white world, he was subtly<br />

challenging any misconceptions about the <strong>Caribbean</strong>. In<br />

a 2006 interview with the BBC, he remarked, “When I did the<br />

‘Banana Boat Song’, for instance, that wasn’t just looking for a<br />

hit. What it did talk about was the working-class struggles of the<br />

people working on the plantations.” “Island in the Sun”, he added,<br />

“had content that talked about struggle.”<br />

As an activist whose anger shows no sign of abating (ask<br />

Donald Trump), Harry Belafonte reminds us that it is possible<br />

to mix politics with entertainment, and that popular culture<br />

can be a powerful ideological force. His extraordinary career,<br />

encompassing a wide spectrum of artistic performance,<br />

provides ample proof of the transformative power of both words<br />

and music. n<br />

WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 87


puzzles<br />

1 2 3 4 5 6 7<br />

CARIBBEAN CROSSWORD<br />

Across<br />

1 It’s <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong>’s <strong>25th</strong>! [11]<br />

6 A shorter Robert [3]<br />

8 Put off [8]<br />

9 Garlicky Italian shrimp [6]<br />

11 Code of conduct [5]<br />

12 Kidneys’ waste removal [9]<br />

13 Metabolic rate [5]<br />

14 West Indians who live elsewhere [8]<br />

17 Guyana’s biggest freshwater fish [8]<br />

19 Have in one’s possession [3]<br />

22 Spring flowers [9]<br />

24 Semi-precious stone [5]<br />

26 Not awake [6]<br />

27 Closing [8]<br />

28 It opens a lock [3]<br />

29 <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong>’s original cover subject [6,5]<br />

8 9<br />

10<br />

11 12<br />

13 14 15<br />

16<br />

17 18 19 20<br />

21<br />

22 23 24 25<br />

26 27<br />

Down<br />

1 Spanish Andrew [5]<br />

2 V-shaped cuts [7]<br />

3 Chicken pox [9]<br />

4 Monkey business in the blood [6]<br />

5 Agave plant [5]<br />

6 Italian baby [7]<br />

7 Trinidad’s most famous cricketer [5,4]<br />

28 29<br />

10 Brilliantly coloured [5]<br />

13 This runs along Barbados’s south<br />

coast [9]<br />

15 Baseball position [9]<br />

16 Scope [5]<br />

18 Appallingly [7]<br />

20 Of a wedding [7]<br />

21 It makes breathing difficult [6]<br />

23 Unhealthily overweight [5]<br />

25 The oldest Marley brother [5]<br />

SPOT THE DIFFERENCE<br />

There are 8 differences between these two pictures. How many can you spot?<br />

by Gregory St Bernard<br />

Spot the Difference<br />

answers<br />

Mountain range is higher;<br />

treetops are lower; sunglasses<br />

are added; colour<br />

of t-shirt is changed from<br />

yellow to white; colour of<br />

glove is different; backpack<br />

is bigger; buckle on<br />

right backpack strap is<br />

higher; belt buckle is different;<br />

pants are shorter.<br />

88 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


WORD SEARCH<br />

abeer<br />

apology<br />

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bat<br />

batik<br />

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blues<br />

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<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> Magazine<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> Magazine<br />

Sudoku<br />

by www.sudoku-puzzle.net<br />

Fill the empty square with numbers<br />

from 1 to 9 so that each row, each<br />

column, and each 3x3 box contains<br />

all of the numbers from 1 to 9. For<br />

the mini sudoku use numbers from<br />

1 to 6.<br />

If the puzzle you want to do has<br />

already been filled in, just ask your<br />

flight attendant for a new copy of the<br />

magazine!<br />

Sudoku 9x9 - Puzzle 2 of 5 - Very Easy<br />

Hard 9x9 sudoku puzzle<br />

6 4 3 7 5<br />

1 8<br />

2 9 6 7<br />

1 4 3 6 9 2<br />

2 7<br />

7 5 9 2 3 4<br />

6 9 3 1<br />

7 5<br />

9 8 1 4 6<br />

www.sudoku-puzzles.net<br />

Sudoku 6x6 - Puzzle 1 of 5 - Medium<br />

Easy 6x6 mini sudoku puzzle<br />

5<br />

2 1<br />

6 5<br />

3 6<br />

3 4<br />

6 3<br />

www.sudoku-puzzles.net<br />

www.sudoku-puzzle.net<br />

Solutions<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> Crossword<br />

Word Search<br />

E Y 29 E U Z H A N P A L C Y<br />

L L S M O A G<br />

S L E E P 27 S H U T T I N G<br />

W U B T T S T I<br />

Sudoku<br />

www.sudoku-puzzles.net<br />

Mini Sudoku<br />

Sudoku 6x6 - Solution 1 of 5 - Medium<br />

Sudoku 9x9 - Solution 2 of 5 - Very Easy<br />

4 1 2 6 3 5<br />

5 6 3 4 2 1<br />

6 8 1 4 3 7 2 9 5<br />

5 7 4 2 9 1 8 6 3<br />

3 2 9 6 5 8 7 4 1<br />

R E V L I S X C U R R Y Q E M<br />

E R E T F R E B A T E V A C T<br />

A<br />

1<br />

1 4 8 3 7 6 9 5 2<br />

2 9 3 1 4 5 6 8 7<br />

7 6 5 9 8 2 1 3 4<br />

4 5 6 7 2 9 3 1 8<br />

8 1 7 5 6 3 4 2 9<br />

9 3 2 8 1 4 5 7 6<br />

www.sudoku-puzzles.net<br />

D<br />

8<br />

N 2 N I 3 V E 4 R S A R 5 Y<br />

6 B O 7<br />

B<br />

N O A H U A R<br />

E T E R R E D 9 S C A M P I<br />

R C I S 10 V C B A<br />

6 2 5 1 4 3<br />

1 3 4 5 6 2<br />

3 4 1 2 5 6<br />

2 5 6 3 1 4<br />

E<br />

11<br />

B<br />

13<br />

T H I C 12 U R I N A T I O N<br />

E E S V N L<br />

A S A L 14 D I A 15 S P O R A<br />

O L 16 A D H R<br />

A<br />

17<br />

R 18 A P A I M A 19 O W N<br />

R W B 21 A R U<br />

20 A<br />

A F F 23 O D I L S 24 T O P A 25<br />

Z<br />

K<br />

28<br />

A<br />

26<br />

D<br />

22<br />

V L K A R E S U E D G V R I S<br />

O A A O O T O K L A G R Y P U<br />

C R T G G N C A P B A E G S R<br />

S U S T A I N A B L E T O S F<br />

I M I L W R O T I N B N L E I<br />

T E M E G P W H O R O I O N N<br />

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L L A B T O O F B A T I K W R<br />

F O I H T E B A Z I L E S I E<br />

Y O U M L E V O R G N A M C E<br />

A P Q A P A K A R A I M A K B<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> Magazine<br />

WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 89<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> Magazine


87% (<strong>2017</strong> year-to-date: 31 January)


<strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines<br />

/<br />

Across the World<br />

CARIBBEAN<br />

Trinidad Head Office<br />

Airport: Piarco International<br />

Reservations & information:<br />

+ 868 625 7200 (local)<br />

Ticket offices: Nicholas Towers,<br />

Independence Square, Port of Spain;<br />

Golden Grove Road, Piarco;<br />

Carlton Centre, San Fernando<br />

Baggage: + 868 669 3000 Ext 7513/4<br />

Antigua<br />

Airport: VC Bird International<br />

Reservations & information:<br />

+ 800 744 2225 (toll free)<br />

Ticketing: VC Bird International Airport<br />

Hours: Mon – Fri 8 am – 4 pm<br />

Baggage: + 268-480-5705 Tues, Thurs, Fri, Sun,<br />

or + 268 462 0528 Mon, Wed, Sat.<br />

Hours: Mon – Fri 4 am – 10 pm<br />

Barbados<br />

Airport: Grantley Adams International<br />

Reservations & information: 1 246 429 5929 /<br />

1 800 744 2225 (toll free)<br />

City Ticket Office: 1st Floor Norman Centre Building,<br />

Broad Street, Bridgetown, Barbados<br />

Ticket office hours: 6 am – 10 am & 11 am –<br />

7 pm daily<br />

Flight Information: + 1 800 744 2225<br />

Baggage: + 1 246 428 1650/1 or + 1 246 428 7101<br />

ext. 4628<br />

Grenada<br />

Airport: Maurice Bishop International<br />

Reservations & Information:<br />

1 800 744 2225 (toll free)<br />

Ticketing: Maurice Bishop International Main<br />

Terminal<br />

Baggage: + 473 439 0681<br />

Jamaica (Kingston)<br />

Airport: Norman Manley International<br />

Reservations & information: + 800 523 5585 (International);<br />

1 888 359 2475 (Local)<br />

City Ticket Office: 128 Old Hope Road, Kingston 6<br />

Hours: Mon-Fri 7.30 am – 5.30 pm,<br />

Saturdays 10 am – 4 pm<br />

Airport Ticket Office: Norman Manley Airport<br />

Counter #1<br />

Hours: 3.30 am – 8 pm daily<br />

Baggage: + 876 924 8500<br />

Jamaica (Montego Bay)<br />

Airport: Sangster International<br />

Reservations & information:<br />

+ 800 744 2225 (toll free)<br />

Ticketing at check-in counter:<br />

8.30 am – 6 pm daily<br />

Baggage: + 876 363 6433<br />

Nassau<br />

Airport: Lynden Pindling International<br />

Terminal: Concourse 2<br />

Reservations & information: + 1 242 377 3300<br />

(local)<br />

Airport Ticket Office: Terminal A-East Departure<br />

Hours: Flight days – Sat, Mon, Thurs 10 am – 4 pm<br />

Non-flight days – Tues, Wed, Fri 10 am – 4 pm<br />

Flight Information: + 1 242 377 3300 (local)<br />

Baggage: + 1 242 377 7035 Ext 255<br />

9 am – 5 pm daily<br />

St Maarten<br />

Airport: Princess Juliana International<br />

Reservations & information: + 1721 546 7660/7661<br />

(local)<br />

Ticket office: PJIA Departure Concourse<br />

Baggage: + 1721 546 7660/3<br />

Hours: Mon – Fri 9 am – 5 pm / Sat 9 am – 6 pm<br />

St Lucia<br />

Airport: George F L Charles<br />

Reservations & information: 1 800 744 2225<br />

Ticket office: George F.L. Charles Airport<br />

Ticket office hours: 10 am – 4 pm<br />

Baggage contact number: 1 758 452 2789<br />

or 1 758 451 7269<br />

Tobago<br />

Airport: ANR Robinson International<br />

Reservations & information: + 868 660 7200 (local)<br />

Ticket office: ANR Robinson International Airport<br />

Baggage: + 639 0595 / 631 8023<br />

Flight information: + 868 669 3000<br />

NORTH AMERICA<br />

Fort Lauderdale<br />

Airport: Hollywood Fort Lauderdale International<br />

Reservations & information: + 800 920 4225<br />

(toll free)<br />

Ticketing: Terminal 4 – departures level (during<br />

flight check-in ONLY – 7.30 am to 7 pm)<br />

Baggage: + 954 359 4487<br />

Miami<br />

Airport: Miami International<br />

Reservations & information: + 800 920 4225<br />

(toll free)<br />

Ticketing: South Terminal J – departures level (during<br />

flight check-in ONLY – 12 pm to 3.00 pm);<br />

Baggage: + 305 869 3795<br />

Orlando<br />

Airport: Orlando International<br />

Reservations & information:<br />

+ 800 920 4225 (toll free)<br />

Ticketing: Terminal A – departures level<br />

(during flight check-in ONLY – Mon/Fri 11:30 am<br />

– 2.15 pm)<br />

Baggage: + 407 825 3482<br />

New York<br />

Airport: John F Kennedy International<br />

Reservations & information: + 800 920 4225<br />

(toll free)<br />

Ticketing: Concourse B, Terminal 4, JFK<br />

International – open 24 hours (situated at departures,<br />

4th floor)<br />

Baggage: + 718 360 8930<br />

Toronto<br />

Airport: Lester B Pearson International<br />

Reservations & information: + 800 920 4225<br />

(toll free)<br />

Ticket office: Terminal 3<br />

Ticketing available daily at check-in counters<br />

422 and 423. Available 3 hours prior to<br />

departure times<br />

Baggage: + 905 672 9991<br />

SOUTH AMERICA<br />

Caracas<br />

Airport: Simón Bolívar International<br />

Reservations & information:<br />

+ 58 212 3552880<br />

Ticketing: Simón Bolívar International Level 2 –<br />

East Sector<br />

Hours: 7 am – 11 pm<br />

City Ticket Office: Sabana Grande Boulevard,<br />

Building “Galerias Bolivar”, 1st Floor, office 11-A,<br />

Caracas, Distrito Capital<br />

+ 58 212 762 4389 / 762 0231<br />

Baggage: + 58 424 1065937<br />

Guyana<br />

Airport: Cheddi Jagan International<br />

Reservations & information: + 800 744 2225<br />

(toll free)<br />

Ticket office: 91-92 Avenue of the Republic,<br />

Georgetown<br />

Baggage: + 011 592 261 2202<br />

Suriname<br />

Airport: Johan Adolf Pengel International<br />

Reservations & information: + 597 52 0034/0035<br />

(local); 1 868 625 6200 (Trinidad)<br />

Ticket Office: Paramaribo Express, N.V. Wagenwegstraat<br />

36, Paramaribo<br />

Baggage: + 597 325 437


For more information, visit us at caribbean-airlines.com/cargo


737 onboard Entertainment <strong>—</strong> MARCH/APRIL<br />

Northbound<br />

Southbound<br />

M A R C H<br />

Doctor Strange<br />

Marvel Studios’ Doctor Strange follows surgeon Stephen<br />

Strange after an injury leads him to discover powerful magic in a<br />

far-off, mysterious place.<br />

Benedict Cumberbatch, Mads Mikkelsen, Tilda Swinton • director: Scott<br />

Derrickson • action, adventure • PG-13 • 115 minutes<br />

Mr Church<br />

A unique friendship develops when a little girl and her dying<br />

mother retain the services of a talented cook <strong>—</strong> Henry Joseph<br />

Church.<br />

Eddie Murphy, Britt Robertson, Natascha McElhone • director: Bruce<br />

Beresford • drama • PG-13 • 104 minutes<br />

Northbound<br />

Southbound<br />

A P R I L<br />

Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them<br />

An orphaned boy named Pete embarks on an adventure with his<br />

best friend Elliot, who just so happens to be a dragon.<br />

Eddie Redmayne, Katherine Waterston, Dan Fogler • director: David Yates •<br />

action, adventure • PG-13 • 128 minutes<br />

Moana<br />

An adventurous teenager, with help from demigod Maui, sails<br />

out on a daring mission to prove herself a master wayfinder and<br />

save her people.<br />

Auli’i Cravalho, Dwayne Johnson, Rachel House • directors: Ron Clements,<br />

John Musker • comedy, adventure • PG • 103 minutes<br />

Audio Channels<br />

Channel 5 • The Hits<br />

Channel 7 • Concert Hall<br />

Channel 9 • Irie Vibes<br />

Channel 11 • Kaiso Kaiso<br />

Channel 6 • Soft Hits<br />

Channel 8 • East Indian Fusion<br />

Channel 10 • Jazz Sessions<br />

Channel 12 • Steelband Jamboree


www.caribbeanairlinesdutyfree.com


L. Superior<br />

L. Michigan<br />

CANADA<br />

Ottawa<br />

Detroit<br />

L. Huron<br />

Toronto<br />

L. Erie<br />

L. Ontario<br />

Montreal<br />

Augusta<br />

Boston<br />

Hartford<br />

Chicago<br />

Harrisburg New York<br />

Columbus Pittsburgh<br />

Trenton<br />

Philadelphia<br />

Washington DC<br />

St Louis<br />

Charleston<br />

Richmond<br />

USA<br />

Nashville<br />

Raleigh<br />

Halifax<br />

ROUTE MAP<br />

Atlantic<br />

Ocean<br />

Atlanta<br />

Columbia<br />

Jackson<br />

New Orleans<br />

Montgomery<br />

Tallahassee<br />

Orlando<br />

Gulf<br />

of<br />

Fort Lauderdale<br />

Miami<br />

THE BAHAMAS<br />

Nassau<br />

Mexico<br />

Havana<br />

CUBA<br />

TURKS & CAICOS<br />

Providenciales<br />

Belmopan<br />

BELIZE<br />

Montego Bay<br />

JAMAICA<br />

Kingston<br />

Port-<br />

au-<br />

Prince<br />

HAITI<br />

G r e a t e r A n t i l l e s<br />

DOM. REP.<br />

Santo<br />

Domingo<br />

San Juan<br />

PUERTO RICO<br />

St Maarten<br />

Antigua<br />

GUATEMALA<br />

Guatemala<br />

San Salvador<br />

EL SALVADOR<br />

HONDURAS<br />

Managua<br />

Tegucigalpa<br />

NICARAGUA<br />

COSTA RICA<br />

San Jose<br />

Panama<br />

C a r i b b e a n S e a<br />

L e s s e r A n t i l l e s<br />

Caracas<br />

VENEZUELA<br />

St Lucia<br />

St Vincent<br />

Grenada<br />

Tobago<br />

Barbados<br />

Trinidad<br />

PANAMA<br />

VENEZUELA<br />

Bogota<br />

COLOMBIA<br />

COLOMBIA<br />

Georgetown<br />

Paramaribo<br />

GUYANA<br />

GUYANA<br />

SURINAME<br />

FRENCH<br />

GUIANA<br />

ECUADOR<br />

Quito<br />

Rio Negro<br />

Amazon R.<br />

Rio Xingu<br />

Gulf of


parting shot<br />

Mangrove<br />

view<br />

Barbuda’s sixty-two square miles of coral limestone<br />

slope from low, gentle hills near the east coast to the<br />

mangrove wetlands of the Codrington Lagoon in<br />

the west. Protected as a national park, the lagoon is<br />

home to one of the world’s largest nesting colonies of<br />

frigate birds.<br />

Photography by André Phillip<br />

96 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM


Partnering with<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines and RBC sign new agreement<br />

continuing 10 year relationship<br />

January 12th, <strong>2017</strong> marked a significant<br />

milestone in the decade-long relationship<br />

between RBC Royal Bank Limited and<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines Limited when the<br />

extended agreement between the two<br />

entities was signed.<br />

This agreement further highlights the<br />

partnership of two strong, well-established<br />

brands in the <strong>Caribbean</strong>: RBC which has<br />

operated in the <strong>Caribbean</strong> for more than<br />

100 years and <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines which has<br />

been recognized for the sixth consecutive<br />

year as the “<strong>Caribbean</strong>’s Leading Airline”<br />

at the Annual World Travel Awards.<br />

Chief Executive Officer of RBC Financial<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> Limited, Rob Johnston, said:<br />

“The renewal of this great partnership is a<br />

significant one for RBC as it represents our<br />

commitment to our clients and to<br />

delivering improved products and services<br />

that cater to their evolving needs. We are<br />

proud of our relationship with <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />

Airlines, another strong, regional brand<br />

which is committed to serving the people<br />

of both the <strong>Caribbean</strong> and the <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />

diaspora.”<br />

Acting Chief Executive Officer of <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />

Airlines, Captain Jagmohan Singh said: “As<br />

we celebrate our tenth anniversary in <strong>2017</strong>,<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines is delighted to once<br />

again partner with RBC to deliver value to<br />

our customers. This partnership meets one<br />

of our key objectives of being customer<br />

focused, and improving the overall service<br />

offering to travelers.”<br />

In addition to the existing rewards<br />

programme, the new RBC <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />

Airlines credit card will offer both retail and<br />

business clients premium benefits such as<br />

travel insurance, concierge services and<br />

other reward earning opportunities that<br />

will allow clients to redeem faster.<br />

Watch out for exciting changes to our RBC<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines credit card in <strong>2017</strong>!<br />

Up, up and away – Captain Jagmohan Singh, CAL CEO (Ag) left, shares a<br />

moment in the cockpit with RBC CEO - Mr. Rob Johnston.<br />

An historical moment indeed – Captain Jagmohan Singh, CAL CEO (Ag) left<br />

renewed partnership. Looking on are the executive teams of both RBC and CAL.<br />

From right - Mr. Darryl White, RBC Managing Director (Trinidad & Tobago),<br />

Mr. Clayton Van Esch, Head, Products, Marketing & Channels, RBC Financial<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> , Mr. Sean Quong Sing, CAL V.P. Commercial (Ag) and Mrs. Alicia<br />

Cabrera, CAL Senior Marketing Manager.<br />

The sky is the limit – A proud moment for the Executive teams of RBC and CAL<br />

as they celebrate this partnership.<br />

® / Trademark(s) of Royal Bank of Canada. Used under licence.

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