Caribbean Beat — 25th Anniversary Edition — March/April 2017 (#144)
A calendar of events; music, film, and book reviews; travel features; people profiles, and much more.
A calendar of events; music, film, and book reviews; travel features; people profiles, and much more.
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ADVERTORIAL<br />
Celebrating our storytellers, writers,<br />
poets, dramatists at the NGC Bocas Lit Fest<br />
e are a nation of storytellers.<br />
There are stories in our songs:<br />
our calypso, soca, and chutney.<br />
There are stories in our mas, our drama,<br />
and our dance. We engage in word-play<br />
outside eateries and on street corners,<br />
and in chance meetings at the marketplace.<br />
The National Gas Company of Trinidad<br />
and Tobago Limited (NGC) recognises,<br />
elevates, and celebrates the innate skills of<br />
our storytellers, writers, poets, and dramatists,<br />
through its ongoing<br />
title sponsorship of the NGC<br />
Bocas Lit Fest. NGC Bocas<br />
gives a voice to local <strong>—</strong> and<br />
even regional <strong>—</strong> authors,<br />
writers, spoken-word artists,<br />
and more. It is eagerly anticipated<br />
by an increasingly<br />
global audience.<br />
The Festival’s standards<br />
of excellence are applied to<br />
workshops, panel discussions,<br />
book readings, and signings,<br />
as well as poetry slam<br />
competitions and film screenings. The<br />
children are specially catered for,<br />
through the Children’s Storytelling<br />
Caravan, which reaches out to communities,<br />
and where children can create<br />
their own stories which are then<br />
compiled and published as a Bocas Lit<br />
Fest production.<br />
NGC’s President, Mr Mark Loquan<br />
Panel Discussion at the NGC Bocas Lit Fest<br />
NGC Children’s Bocas Lit Fest<br />
This festival has commemorated<br />
writers such as Tiphanie Yanique,<br />
winner of the Felix Dennis Prize for Best<br />
Collection; Marlon James, winner of the<br />
Man Booker Prize; Andre Alexis, winner<br />
of the Scotiabank Giller Prize; and Vahni<br />
Capideo, awarded the Forward Prize for<br />
Best Poetry Collection in 2016. NGC<br />
Bocas Lit Fest has further expanded<br />
their reach through partnerships with<br />
organisations to host CODE’s Burt<br />
Awards for writers of young adult<br />
books.<br />
The NGC Bocas Lit Fest<br />
is a vital element of our<br />
Corporate Social Responsibility<br />
programme, through<br />
which NGC supports local<br />
development through<br />
youth development in<br />
sport and education; the<br />
preservation and promotion<br />
of arts and culture;<br />
environmental protection<br />
and preservation; community<br />
development and<br />
enhancement.<br />
NGC takes pride in local and<br />
regional authors, storytellers, and<br />
poets who have added to the<br />
international literacy landscape,<br />
recording and preserving our<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong>-ness for generations<br />
to come.<br />
The <strong>2017</strong> NGC Bocas Lit Fest runs from 26 to 30 <strong>April</strong>.<br />
For more information, visit www.bocaslitfest.com
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Contents<br />
No. 144 <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong><br />
17 68<br />
EMBARK<br />
17 Datebook<br />
Events around the <strong>Caribbean</strong> in<br />
<strong>March</strong> and <strong>April</strong>, from a river race in<br />
Belize to St Patrick’s Day in St Croix<br />
<strong>—</strong> plus a drum festival, kite-flying,<br />
and cricket<br />
24 Word of Mouth<br />
Whether you experience it on stage<br />
or from the audience, Trinidad and<br />
Tobago’s national spoken word<br />
poetry slam is full of thrills<br />
26 The look<br />
Trinidadian swimwear designer<br />
Chandra Maharaj makes a seamlessly<br />
elegant transition to Carnival<br />
Monday wear<br />
28 Bookshelf, playlist, and<br />
screenshots<br />
This month’s reading, listening, and<br />
film-watching picks, in our books,<br />
music, and film columns<br />
ARRIVE<br />
68 Offtrack<br />
Pakaraima bound<br />
The spectacular Pakaraima<br />
Mountains, near Guyana’s border<br />
with Brazil and Venezuela, are a<br />
landscape of dramatic table-top<br />
mountains, rolling valleys, and<br />
remote villages. It’s not an easy part<br />
of the world for outsiders to visit.<br />
But the annual Pakaraima Mountain<br />
Safari attracts visitors hungry for<br />
adventure <strong>—</strong> like Neil Marks<br />
78 neighbourhood<br />
Port Elizabeth, Bequia<br />
The capital of the second-largest of<br />
the Grenadine Islands is a haven for<br />
yachties <strong>—</strong> but also for artists and<br />
foodies<br />
IMMERSE<br />
80 Layover<br />
Bridgetown, Barbados<br />
As one of the <strong>Caribbean</strong>’s most<br />
popular tourist destinations, Barbados<br />
is also a major hub for international<br />
flights to the region. Our guide to<br />
exploring the island when time is tight<br />
ENGAGE<br />
82 inspire<br />
Inner-city art<br />
For middle-class Jamaicans and tourists<br />
alike, downtown Kingston, with its<br />
deprived communities, can seem<br />
off-limits. So when a group of young<br />
artists began a public mural project<br />
in the Fleet Street area, it wasn’t just<br />
about beautifying the neighbourhood,<br />
writes Tanya Batson-Savage. It was<br />
really about opening opportunities for<br />
local residents<br />
34 Cookup<br />
A compendium of curry<br />
From Jamaican goat to Trini doubles,<br />
curry is one of the definitive flavours<br />
of the <strong>Caribbean</strong>. There are hundreds<br />
of curry blends around the world <strong>—</strong><br />
what are the <strong>Caribbean</strong>’s best, and<br />
how are they evolving? Franka Philip<br />
finds out<br />
38 caribbean beat turns 25<br />
The beat goes on<br />
As <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> marks its twenty-fifth anniversary, we look back at<br />
our coverage of <strong>Caribbean</strong> people, arts, and culture since 1992. Lots has<br />
changed <strong>—</strong> in the magazine, in our region, in the wider world <strong>—</strong> in the<br />
past quarter-century. What hasn’t changed is our mission to share the<br />
stories of the <strong>Caribbean</strong>’s best and brightest, from a <strong>Caribbean</strong> perspective,<br />
for a <strong>Caribbean</strong> audience. You can see it in the covers of the 144 issues<br />
we’ve published over the years <strong>—</strong> and the stories behind those images<br />
8 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
<strong>Caribbean</strong><strong>Beat</strong><br />
An MEP publication<br />
80<br />
Editor Nicholas Laughlin<br />
General manager Halcyon Salazar<br />
Online marketing Caroline Taylor<br />
Design artists Kevon Webster & Bridget van Dongen<br />
Editorial assistant Shelly-Ann Inniss<br />
Business Development Manager<br />
Trinidad & Tobago<br />
Yuri Chin Choy<br />
T: (868) 460 0068, 622 3821<br />
F: (868) 628 0639<br />
E: yuri@meppublishers.com<br />
Business Development Manager<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> & International<br />
Denise Chin<br />
T: (868) 683 0832<br />
F: (868) 628 0639<br />
E: dchin@meppublishers.com<br />
84 Green<br />
Progress report<br />
In the pages of <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong>, over<br />
the past twenty-five years, we’ve often<br />
reported on environmental stories.<br />
So what’s the real state of progress<br />
across the region, when it comes to<br />
protecting our natural resources?<br />
Nazma Muller investigates<br />
86On this day<br />
Calypso with a conscience<br />
A beloved musical icon since the 1950s,<br />
Harry Belafonte has an equally long<br />
reputation as a political activist. And<br />
the parallel themes of his public life,<br />
entertainment and activism, both have<br />
their roots in Belafonte’s childhood<br />
in Jamaica. James Ferguson finds out<br />
more<br />
Media & Editorial Projects Ltd.<br />
6 Prospect Avenue, Maraval, Port of Spain, Trinidad and Tobago<br />
T: (868) 622 3821/5813/6138<br />
F: (868) 628 0639<br />
E: caribbean-beat@meppublishers.com<br />
Website: www.meppublishers.com<br />
Read and save issues of <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> on your smartphone,<br />
tablet, computer, and favourite digital devices!<br />
88 puzzles<br />
Our crossword and other brainteasers,<br />
to keep your mind busy<br />
during your flight<br />
94 Onboard entertainment<br />
Movie and audio listings, to entertain<br />
you in the air<br />
Printed by Solo Printing Inc., Miami, Florida<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> is published six times a year for <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines by Media & Editorial Projects Ltd. It is also available on<br />
subscription. Copyright © <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines <strong>2017</strong>. All rights reserved. ISSN 1680–6158. No part of this magazine may be<br />
reproduced in any form whatsoever without the written permission of the publisher. MEP accepts no responsibility for<br />
content supplied by our advertisers. The views of the advertisers are theirs and do not represent MEP in any way.<br />
Website: www.caribbean-airlines.com<br />
96 parting shot<br />
A mosaic of greens and blues<br />
seen from high above, Barbuda’s<br />
Codrington Lagoon is a natural<br />
gem, home to mangrove forests and<br />
seabird colonies<br />
The <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines logo shows a hummingbird in flight. Native to the <strong>Caribbean</strong>, the hummingbird represents<br />
flight, travel, vibrancy, and colour. It encompasses the spirit of both the region and <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines.<br />
WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 9
Cover Martiniquan<br />
filmmaker Euzhan Palcy,<br />
twenty-five years after she<br />
appeared on the cover of<br />
the first <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />
Photo ©Yannick Coupannec/<br />
Leemage<br />
This issue’s contributors include:<br />
Jamaican Tanya Batson-Savage (“Inner-city art”,<br />
page 82) is the publisher and editor-in-chief<br />
of independent publishing house Blue Moon<br />
Publishing and the online arts and culture magazine<br />
Susumba.com. She is the author of Pumpkin Belly<br />
and Other Stories and the play Woman Tongue.<br />
Laura Dowrich (“The beat goes on”, page 38) is the<br />
content manager for Looptt.com, a news website<br />
and app based in Trinidad and Tobago.<br />
Debbie Jacob (“The beat goes on”, page 38) is a<br />
journalist, author of eight books, and longtime<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> contributor. She is also the head<br />
librarian at the International School of Port of<br />
Spain, Trinidad.<br />
Neil Marks (“Pakaraima bound”, page 68) is a<br />
Guyanese freelance journalist and stringer for Reuters.<br />
He has specialised in environmental reporting for<br />
many years, and recently won the Prince Albert II of<br />
Monaco/UNCA Award for Climate Change reporting.<br />
Ariana Herbert (“Grand slam”, page 26) is a past<br />
finalist of the First Citizens National Poetry Slam. She<br />
upholds storytelling and the exploration of alternative<br />
narratives concerning identity, gender, and disability.<br />
Nazma Muller (“Progress report”, page 84) is a<br />
Trinidad-born, Jamaica-obsessed writer who has<br />
worked in newsrooms in T&T, Jamaica, and the UK.<br />
Judy Raymond (“The beat goes on”, page 38) is a<br />
freelance writer and former editor of <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />
<strong>Beat</strong>, who has written extensively about books,<br />
arts, and politics. Her latest book, The Colour of<br />
Shadows, is a study of the conditions and images of<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> slavery.<br />
WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 11
A MESSAGE From THE CARIBBEAN AIRLINES TEAM<br />
<strong>2017</strong> is an auspicious year for both <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines and<br />
Media and Editorial Projects Limited (MEP), the publishers of<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> magazine. <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines is celebrating<br />
10 years of serving the region, and this issue marks 25 years<br />
of the magazine’s existence.<br />
The first <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> was published in 1992, under the<br />
former national carrier BWIA. When <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines began<br />
operations in 2007, we were fortunate to have <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />
as a partner for the new company.<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines is an authentic <strong>Caribbean</strong> brand, and<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> is key to our positioning as THE authority on<br />
all things <strong>Caribbean</strong>. The magazine has consistently got behind<br />
the usual <strong>Caribbean</strong> stories of sun, sand, and sea, and<br />
featured real <strong>Caribbean</strong> experiences and people, celebrating<br />
genuine <strong>Caribbean</strong> accomplishment and aspiration in sport,<br />
art, music, literature, history, cuisine, lifestyle, science and innovation,<br />
adventure, festivals, and other events.<br />
In addition to celebrating these milestones, <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />
Airlines remains focussed on enhancing the customer experience.<br />
To this end, we recently launched our new cuttingedge<br />
website www.caribbean-airlines.com, which reflects<br />
our continued commitment to delivering a unique, compelling<br />
and memorable travel experience.<br />
The new website, designed by MBLM, includes:<br />
• a responsive design, which can be viewed with ease<br />
on any size/resolution screen<br />
• an inviting user interface with content structure that is<br />
much easier to navigate<br />
• access to multiple products and services and the<br />
best deals for you, when you book online<br />
• exciting destination guides with locally produced<br />
content and imagery of popular <strong>Caribbean</strong> attractions<br />
The vibrant design is friendly and authentic, inviting customers<br />
to experience the warmth and pride of the region and<br />
what it means to be <strong>Caribbean</strong>.<br />
January and February were busy months, and <strong>March</strong> and<br />
<strong>April</strong> promise to continue this trend. Our convenient flight<br />
schedule makes it easy for you to get to and from the many<br />
events taking place, and we are happy that you choose to fly<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines.<br />
In February, at the request of the Government of<br />
St Vincent and the Grenadines, we operated charter services<br />
into the new Argyle International Airport. Look out for more<br />
exciting developments as we extend our network to include<br />
new destinations.<br />
We invite you to fly with us to Guyana’s Rupununi Rodeo,<br />
which is held each year over the Easter weekend (this year,<br />
15 to 17 <strong>April</strong>). The rodeo is the most popular inland sporting<br />
festival in the country. Meanwhile, <strong>April</strong> is jazz month in Tobago,<br />
with the Tobago Jazz Experience taking place from 22<br />
Nicholas Laughlin<br />
Guyana’s Rupununi Rodeo<br />
to 30 <strong>April</strong>, and Antigua will host the 50th epic sailing week<br />
from 29 <strong>April</strong> to 5 May.<br />
Beyond the <strong>Caribbean</strong> region, our North American destinations<br />
are bustling. In New York, the Tribeca Film Festival,<br />
carded for 19 to 30 <strong>April</strong>, continues to shine the spotlight<br />
on the latest films from big-name talent and the greatest<br />
from up-and-coming filmmakers. In Miami, the Carnaval on<br />
the Mile which takes place on 4 and 5 <strong>March</strong> will feature a<br />
wide array of local artists. The Calle Ocho Festival in Miami is<br />
celebrating its 40th anniversary in grand style. Calle Ocho is<br />
the largest street festival in Miami, and features the sounds<br />
of merengue, reggeaton, bachata, balada, hip-hop, rap, and<br />
jazz. And in Toronto you can let your taste buds lead the way<br />
through the Toronto Food and Drink Market from 31 <strong>March</strong><br />
to 2 <strong>April</strong>.<br />
Thank you for choosing <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines <strong>—</strong> we value<br />
your business and look forward to serving you throughout<br />
our network.<br />
Please visit our website, www.caribbean-airlines.com,<br />
become a fan by liking us on Facebook at www.facebook.com/caribbeanairlines,<br />
and follow us on Twitter and<br />
Instagram @iflycaribbean.<br />
Yours in service,<br />
The Employees of <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines<br />
12 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
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Complimentary Meals<br />
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datebook<br />
Your guide to <strong>Caribbean</strong> events in <strong>March</strong> and <strong>April</strong>, from a river race in<br />
Belize to jazz in Tobago<br />
Warren le platte<br />
Don’t miss . . .<br />
Phagwah (Holi)<br />
12 and 13 <strong>March</strong><br />
Trinidad and Tobago, Guyana, and Suriname<br />
Known as Holi in India and Phagwah in parts of the<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong>, the Hindu spring festival of colours and sharing<br />
love brings joy, happiness, unity (even if just for a while),<br />
and thanksgiving. Some even refer to it as the Hindu<br />
New Year. Although a religious event, it’s completely allinclusive.<br />
No one is spared from the friendly throwing of<br />
brightly coloured gulal powder, spraying of deep purple<br />
abeer dye with homemade water guns, or the goodnatured<br />
rivalry. At a fast pace and high pitch, folk songs<br />
called chowtals are sung to the accompaniment of the<br />
dholak and the majeera, both percussion instruments.<br />
You won’t be able to resist dancing. Phagwah is deep in<br />
religious significance with symbols of purification and the<br />
promotion of good health. Spread the love.<br />
How to get there? <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines operates daily<br />
flights to Piarco International Airport in Trinidad,<br />
Cheddi Jagan International Airport in Guyana, and<br />
Johann Pengel International Airport in Suriname<br />
from <strong>Caribbean</strong> and North American destinations<br />
WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 17
datebook<br />
If you’re in . . .<br />
BELIZE<br />
BARBADOS<br />
GRAND CAYMAN<br />
jcariddi photography<br />
La Ruta Maya River<br />
Challenge<br />
3 to 6 <strong>March</strong><br />
larutamaya.bz<br />
If you think the Olympics are a<br />
challenge, consider this arduous<br />
four-day river race, where only the<br />
fittest survive. With participants<br />
coming from around the world,<br />
approximately one hundred teams of<br />
three cut along the Belize Old River,<br />
paddling 175 miles from San Ignacio,<br />
Cayo District, to downtown Belize<br />
City. It’s the longest canoe race in<br />
Central America, and there can be no<br />
substitutions.<br />
Translated, La Ruta Maya means<br />
“the Maya Trail,” and it recalls the<br />
journey of ancient Maya travellers<br />
who paddled to the sea to trade<br />
with cities up the coast of Belize. As<br />
a tribute to these ancestors, the river<br />
challenge has been going steady for<br />
nineteen years. There’s rapid pace<br />
on the river, and in villages along<br />
the route, fairs, markets, and local<br />
music bands entertain the onlookers.<br />
The adventure mellows during<br />
three-night stops at the Banana Bank<br />
Lodge, Double Head Cabbage, and<br />
Old River Tavern. And on the last day,<br />
which coincides with National Heroes<br />
and Benefactors Day (previously<br />
called Baron Bliss Day), the canoes<br />
flow into the celebratory fanfare in<br />
Belize City.<br />
MAT/shutterstock.com<br />
Sandy Lane Gold Cup<br />
4 <strong>March</strong><br />
Garrison Savannah<br />
In other islands, Carnival may have<br />
finished, but its atmosphere is<br />
still alive in Barbados at the most<br />
prestigious horseracing event in the<br />
eastern <strong>Caribbean</strong>. Thirty-six years<br />
ago, in its debut year, people climbed<br />
onto roofs near the historic Garrison<br />
Savannah to get a vantage point for<br />
the pre-Gold Cup entertainment and<br />
the race itself. The weight of the<br />
spectators caused one of the roofs<br />
to collapse, sending people helterskelter.<br />
The Gold Cup isn’t just for racelovers<br />
<strong>—</strong> it’s traditional to have pomp<br />
and pageantry, and loads of family<br />
entertainment. There are activities<br />
preceding the race day, too. These<br />
include polo matches, celebrity golf<br />
tournaments and dinners, a Broadway<br />
show, and a street parade. Some of<br />
the world’s leading investors enter<br />
their horses for the race, drawn to<br />
the prestige of winning the coveted<br />
title. All this excitement leads to the<br />
main event: one race spanning nine<br />
furlongs (1,800 metres), and filled<br />
with cream-of-the-crop jockeys and<br />
horses. Maybe for race time you could<br />
become a member of the Barbados<br />
Turf Club’s Grand Stand Posse? “And<br />
they’re off!”<br />
Kaibo Kitefest<br />
17 <strong>April</strong><br />
Kaibo Beach<br />
The beautiful kites above Kaibo dive,<br />
swirl, and soar like birds. As flighty<br />
and carefree as they may seem, some<br />
of the kites are actually performing a<br />
good deed. Not just bringing families<br />
together or making children smile: the<br />
entry fee for Grand Cayman’s annual<br />
kite competition goes directly to the<br />
Acts of Random Kindness charity,<br />
an organisation that assists people<br />
throughout the Cayman community.<br />
Now in its eighth year, the<br />
competition includes categories like<br />
most creative and original kite, best<br />
kite flyer with the steadiest kite, oldest<br />
kite flyer, youngest kite flyer, best<br />
dressed (matching kite and costume),<br />
and most environmentally friendly<br />
kite. You’re free to build your kites<br />
beforehand, and if you need assistance<br />
you can head over to a kite-making<br />
workshop.<br />
Kite tricks and demos by kiteboarders<br />
are also in the mix, while live<br />
music floats on the wind. The event<br />
usually runs from 1 to 5 pm, with<br />
an exciting array of attractive prizes<br />
distributed at a ceremony beginning<br />
promptly at 4. Kite flying is one of the<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong>’s cherished Easter traditions,<br />
and on Kaibo Beach it’s free for all<br />
(unless you enter the competition).<br />
Event previews by Shelly-Ann Inniss<br />
Gelpi/shutterstock.com<br />
18 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
datebook<br />
Marvellous <strong>March</strong><br />
England cricket tour of<br />
the West Indies<br />
Antigua, St Kitts, and<br />
Barbados<br />
Cheer for the Windies and<br />
bask in the liveliness of the<br />
stands on the home grounds<br />
of cricket stars Curtly Ambrose<br />
and Sir Garfield Sobers, during<br />
this ODI series<br />
[3 to 9 <strong>March</strong>]<br />
mbbirdy/istock.com<br />
International Drum Festival<br />
Venues around Cuba<br />
fiestadeltambor.cult.cu<br />
Cubans and foreigners dance and play to Havana rhythms<br />
in masterclasses, workshops, and competitions<br />
[7 to 12 <strong>March</strong>]<br />
Moonsplash Festival<br />
The Dune Preserve, Anguilla<br />
Spend the weekend dancing<br />
in the sand to the hits of top<br />
reggae artists under the full<br />
moon and stars<br />
[9 to 12 <strong>March</strong>]<br />
30<br />
01<br />
30 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15<br />
16 17 1<br />
16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31<br />
Escape the<br />
ordinary.<br />
Work.<br />
Discover<br />
Play.<br />
Hyatt Do Regency both.<br />
It’s Trinidad. good not<br />
to be home.<br />
20 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
St Patrick’s Day Parade<br />
Christiansted, St Croix<br />
Mobs of green can be seen for miles<br />
jamming alongside beautiful floats at<br />
this <strong>Caribbean</strong>-Irish party. Watch out<br />
for the beads!<br />
[18 <strong>March</strong>]<br />
©Gail Johnson<br />
Plein Air Curaçao Festival<br />
Venues around Curaçao<br />
Local and international artists of various levels<br />
capture the splendour of the “Hidden Treasure,”<br />
including underwater and air painting<br />
[9 to 18 <strong>March</strong>]<br />
courtesy st croix st patrick’s day parade<br />
30 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15<br />
16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31<br />
WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 21
datebook<br />
Adventures in<br />
<strong>April</strong><br />
Panama International<br />
Film Festival<br />
Venues across Panama City<br />
Celebrate the passion,<br />
diversity, and flavour of<br />
cinema in this free week-long<br />
programme of screenings,<br />
workshops, and masterclasses<br />
[30 Mar to 5 Apr]<br />
christine yurick<br />
Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta<br />
Falmouth Harbour, Antigua<br />
Graceful classic ketches, schooners, and yawls create a<br />
spectacle on the seas and vie for the prizes<br />
[19 to 25 <strong>April</strong>]<br />
Tobago Jazz Experience<br />
Tobago<br />
Phenomenal performances<br />
by local and prominent<br />
international icons will chase<br />
your worries and stress away<br />
with a <strong>Caribbean</strong> flair<br />
[22 to 30 <strong>April</strong>]<br />
Started 30 <strong>March</strong><br />
30 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15<br />
16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31<br />
Inspired Products presents<br />
Unique steelpan fridge magnets<br />
Website: www.steelpansite.com<br />
Tel: 909-464-0101 (USA)<br />
Corporate orders with custom stickers welcome.<br />
22 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
hayley madden for the poetry society<br />
Writer Vahni Capildeo<br />
NGC Bocas Lit Fest<br />
Port of Spain, Trinidad<br />
Avid readers, performers,<br />
and writers celebrate words,<br />
stories, and ideas in the heart<br />
of T&T’s capital<br />
[26 to 30 <strong>April</strong>]<br />
A Cotton Photo/shutterstock.com<br />
Vertical Blue Free Diving<br />
International Competition<br />
Dean’s Blue Hole, Long Island,<br />
the Bahamas<br />
Every continent will be<br />
represented as divers plunge to<br />
win the title of world’s deepest<br />
male and female diver<br />
[30 <strong>April</strong>]<br />
30 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15<br />
16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31<br />
WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 23
word of mouth<br />
Dispatches from our correspondents around the <strong>Caribbean</strong> and further afield<br />
Seth Sylvester, 2016<br />
champion of the First<br />
Citizens National Poetry<br />
Slam<br />
Grand slam<br />
courtesy the 2 cents movement<br />
Ariana Herbert on experiencing<br />
T&T’s national spoken word<br />
poetry slam <strong>—</strong> on stage and in<br />
the audience<br />
In the latter quarter of my brief existence, I’ve often found<br />
myself in strange and surprising situations. But perhaps the<br />
best of these remains mistakenly auditioning for the largest<br />
spoken word competition in the <strong>Caribbean</strong>. Quite entirely through<br />
orchestrated actions of the universe <strong>—</strong> or perhaps because my<br />
brother got me there by telling me it was just an open mic <strong>—</strong> in<br />
2014 I found myself in the semi-finals for what was then called the<br />
Verses Bocas Poetry Slam, and a year later in the finals.<br />
Now called the First Citizens National Poetry Slam, and<br />
nationally established as one of Trinidad and Tobago’s biggest<br />
poetry platforms, the competition is the closing event of the<br />
annual NGC Bocas Lit Fest, coordinated by the literary festival<br />
and its partners the 2 Cents Movement. (This year the slam<br />
finals happen on Sunday 30 <strong>April</strong>, at the National Academy for<br />
Performing Arts in Port of Spain.)<br />
Competing for a TT$20,000 grand prize among thirteen other<br />
participants in front of internationally renowned judges is not<br />
an opportunity that arises easily <strong>—</strong> nor one that any of us poets<br />
treats lightly. It is a respected space that demands we challenge<br />
our craft and commit to excellence.<br />
Onstage, there is something truly magical about that<br />
hushed darkness before the spotlight bathes you, feeling a<br />
performance pour out of your body, and knowing you have but<br />
a few minutes to invite an audience of over a thousand people<br />
to share part of you. In the <strong>Caribbean</strong> spoken word arena, this<br />
experience is unparalleled.<br />
And for those in the audience? The real beauty is being<br />
submerged in a live story and feeling the words sing around you,<br />
surging throughout your body. Whether you feel refreshed or<br />
stung, an excellent piece insists a change upon you.<br />
Last year’s slam finals saw fourteen artists judged by<br />
T&T performance legends Paul Keens-Douglas and Wendell<br />
Manwarren, alongside Circle of Poets president Nicholas Sosa,<br />
Boston University professor Laurence Breiner, and Barbadian<br />
writer Nailah Folami Imoja. The event was graced with guest<br />
performances by T&T’s Minister of Tourism, Shamfa Cudjoe,<br />
alongside Shineque Saunders, champion of the Courts Bocas<br />
Speak Out Intercol 2016 <strong>—</strong> T&T’s national schools spoken<br />
word competition.<br />
With topics that ranged from the sombre to the hilarious,<br />
the participants that night commanded the stage. There came<br />
quiet singed by blistering lines of social critique, raucous times<br />
of delight in brilliantly ridiculous snippets, and an aftermath of<br />
respect for the sheer cunning of the poets. Seth Sylvester, the<br />
2016 winner, delved into a personal narrative that clutched the<br />
audience and then released them to a standing ovation. There<br />
is something undeniably human about connecting to someone<br />
else’s experience, and Seth’s performance to this day affects me.<br />
My favourite part is always when someone else goes, I thought<br />
it was only me . . . n<br />
24 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
the look<br />
Thank<br />
God it’s<br />
Monday<br />
From swimwear to<br />
Carnival Monday wear,<br />
Trinidadian Chandra<br />
Maharaj’s designs combine<br />
classic lines with comfort<br />
Photography by Ikenna Douglas<br />
26 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
Pieces from the “Goddess” Monday<br />
wear Carnival collection come with cool<br />
removable jewellery<br />
The saying “less is more” perfectly describes Trinidadian<br />
Chandra Maharaj’s creations. She’s been designing for as<br />
long as she can remember, but her path became clear when<br />
she redirected her master’s degree from international business<br />
to fashion. Inspired by anything that moves her joyous soul, her<br />
well-known swimwear line includes classic yet sexy pieces made<br />
with sublime fabrics that are vibrant in colour and print. Her latest<br />
Carnival Monday wear collection incorporating removable jewellery<br />
is her best yet, and something she plans to expand in the future. And<br />
her swimwear isn’t the only thing making waves <strong>—</strong> her fitness gear<br />
is just as fabulous and, of course, incredibly comfy.<br />
Alia Michèle Orane<br />
www.aliamichele.com<br />
For more information: visit www.chandramaharajdesigns.<br />
com or email info@chandramaharajdesigns.com<br />
WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 27
Bookshelf<br />
Canouan Suite and Other Pieces, by Philip Nanton (Papillote Press, 75 pp, ISBN 9780993108679)<br />
Paintings can sometimes speak words; poems will occasionally offer vistas. These<br />
aren’t contradictions, but conclusions that St Vincent-born, Barbados-based Philip<br />
Nanton’s new hybrid art-verse book, Canouan Suite and Other Pieces, attempts<br />
to make plain. Nanton offers poems <strong>—</strong> some rollicking, others contemplative<br />
<strong>—</strong> alongside visual pieces from artists who are either <strong>Caribbean</strong>, or closely<br />
affiliated with <strong>Caribbean</strong> spaces. These poems immerse themselves playfully and<br />
poignantly in cricket, neo-colonisation, and the bewildering, bodacious beauty<br />
of Barbados itself.<br />
What strikes the reader reassuringly is how firmly in the local soil these poems<br />
are grown. In “Night Cricket at Carlton Club, Barbados”, “bats are twirled; leather<br />
hits wood; runs, like souls, are sometimes saved. People erupt from their seats,<br />
shout, sit down, mutter. Glove knocks glove.” Nanton compels his audience with<br />
images plucked straight from the greenery, chaos, and market-stalls of <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />
living, whether he turns his attention to a topsy-turvy police station or a troupe<br />
of outlandishly named minibuses.<br />
In “Canouan Suite”, for which the book is named, the poet trains a sharply<br />
critical eye on the clutches of foreign investment in a small-island community. A<br />
chorus of voices populates the poem, from the bone-weary hotel worker to the<br />
cavalier, dispassionate outsider who calls the island “a pocket-handkerchief of a<br />
place.” The poem is a powerful admonition that lets its own characters speak; it<br />
highlights Nanton’s lyrical virtuosity without dampening his message.<br />
Canouan Suite and Other Pieces warns against the real dangers in calling any<br />
place, <strong>Caribbean</strong> or otherwise, a “paradise.” Despite this grave counsel, the book<br />
opens itself to wonder at every turn, proving that when easy labels are discarded,<br />
the deepest cistern of an island’s heart spills over.<br />
The Yard, by Aliyyah Eniath (Speaking Tiger<br />
Books, 272 pp, ISBN 9789385755088)<br />
If the closeness of one<br />
nuclear family stirs up<br />
confusion in the domestic<br />
cauldron of everyday living,<br />
how much worse is it when<br />
your neighbours on all sides<br />
are your blood relations,<br />
too? In Aliyyah Eniath’s<br />
fiction debut, the intricacies<br />
and entanglements of<br />
“compound life” <strong>—</strong> many<br />
families in one unsegregated<br />
dwelling expanse <strong>—</strong> are<br />
scrutinised through the<br />
crosshairs of love, duty, and religious devotion. Orphaned<br />
Behrooz and privileged Maya form a bond reminiscent of<br />
literature’s finest and most thwarted of beloveds. The<br />
Yard lifts a veil on Indo-Muslim Trinidad: its customs,<br />
ceremonies, and concerns are sensitively penned and<br />
elegantly conveyed. Written with the joviality of a<br />
comedy of errors, yet underpinned by wry commentary<br />
on society’s need for speculation, this first novel shines<br />
with promise.<br />
The Taxidermist’s Cut, by Rajiv Mohabir (Four<br />
Way Books, 112 pp, ISBN 9781935536727)<br />
In one of the poems of this first<br />
collection, a speaker confesses:<br />
“I admit failure to a friend: I<br />
have never spelled love with<br />
another in the tangle of my<br />
own limbs.” Rajiv Mohabir, who<br />
traces his immediate ancestry to<br />
Guyana, writes with boundless<br />
appetite about the new New<br />
World of Indo-<strong>Caribbean</strong><br />
identities. These poems do<br />
not claim fearlessness: they<br />
siphon audacious admissions<br />
and erotic offerings from the very maw of fear itself.<br />
Contending with anti-queer, anti-immigrant, antibrown<br />
judgements, they explode into bhajans and bass<br />
rhymes of verse. The speakers in them are often restless,<br />
distanced from their natal beginnings and curious about<br />
their shifting postal addresses. It is this curiosity, this<br />
desire to claim names from the erasure and indemnity of<br />
East Indian indentureship in the West Indies, which gives<br />
this extraordinary debut its wings.<br />
28 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
Michael Manley: The Biography, by Godfrey<br />
Smith (Ian Randle Publishers, 458 pp, ISBN<br />
9789766379223)<br />
Statesman par excellence;<br />
passionate public official<br />
and private man; egalitarian<br />
trade unionist; prolific author;<br />
all-around dynamo: twenty<br />
years after his death, Michael<br />
Manley remains one of the most<br />
compelling figures in <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />
political life, past or present. In<br />
this new biography, Godfrey<br />
Smith takes a sequential, probing<br />
approach to documenting<br />
Manley’s life as Jamaican prime<br />
minister and policy maker. What sets Smith’s consummately<br />
readable biography apart is its undaunted willingness to<br />
tell the full truth of one remarkable man’s orbit. Everything<br />
from a string of marriages to pioneering economic reform<br />
is weighted, addressed, and assessed as valuable material<br />
for the reader’s reflection. Many accounts of Manley<br />
position him beyond the reach of everyday Jamaicans: this<br />
unassumingly titled book brings a humanising light to its<br />
often-inscrutable subject, stripping the titan of any one,<br />
easy signification.<br />
A Handbook of Trinidad Cookery 1907,<br />
edited by Danielle Delon (Cassique Publications,<br />
156 pp, ISBN 9789769541559)<br />
Mrs Ross’s Spanish Custard and<br />
Miss Doyle’s Callaloo: these<br />
sound like your auntie’s timehonoured,<br />
jealously guarded<br />
family recipes, but they’re<br />
actually two of the culinary<br />
contributions in A Handbook<br />
of Trinidad Cookery 1907.<br />
Danielle Delon has dusted off<br />
the original 1907 compilation<br />
of this kitchen handbook, and<br />
faithfully repurposed it for any<br />
contemporary chef with an interest in <strong>Caribbean</strong> cuisine.<br />
The book is illuminatory not only as a cookery guide, but<br />
as a historic passport to the conventions of French Creole<br />
and British immigrant householders, who adapted their<br />
palates to the particular mélange of verdure, wild game,<br />
and seasonings available at the time. Even its outdated<br />
recipes offer clues to the way Trinidad’s kitchens, and by<br />
extension Trinidad’s domestic spheres, once operated:<br />
every concoction and confection within these pages is<br />
worth its weight in sugar and spice.<br />
Reviews by Shivanee Ramlochan, Bookshelf editor<br />
WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 29
playlist<br />
Bright Eyes Victor Provost (Paquito Records)<br />
Virgin Island steelpan jazz<br />
virtuoso Victor Provost sets<br />
an optimistic tone with his<br />
second album, Bright Eyes,<br />
capturing the influence of<br />
the <strong>Caribbean</strong> more so than<br />
on his debut album two<br />
years ago. Bebop swagger<br />
gives way to a progressive<br />
jazz world fusion while still<br />
maintaining a deft touch that allows the tenor pan to<br />
ring true. On the eleven tunes on this album, Provost<br />
runs through a gamut of styles and select composers, to<br />
give the steelpan a context outside its calypso base. The<br />
obligatory homage to calypso legend Lord Kitchener is<br />
included <strong>—</strong> “Pan in Harmony” <strong>—</strong> but this album reflects<br />
Provost’s recent apprenticeship with Cuban saxophonist<br />
Paquito D’Rivera and his wider exploration of improvised<br />
tropical music. Mazurka, baião, calypso, and funky<br />
Afro-Cuban jazz all have a presence here. Guest soloists<br />
<strong>—</strong> including the aforementioned D’Rivera, alongside<br />
Etienne Charles and Ron Blake, to name a few <strong>—</strong> flavour<br />
this <strong>Caribbean</strong> jazz gumbo which swings with enough<br />
intensity to keep your attention.<br />
Elemental Ruth Osman (self-released)<br />
Trinidad-based Guyanese<br />
singer-songwriter Ruth<br />
Osman is a poet disguised as a<br />
songbird. Not so much a poet<br />
in the Dylanesque Nobel Prize<br />
echelon, but from the milieu<br />
of <strong>Caribbean</strong> poets who use<br />
metaphor and emotional<br />
narrative to imbue a sense<br />
of order into our scattered<br />
lives. The bookend opening and closing interludes of this<br />
ten-song album showcase her talent as poet who moves<br />
beyond mere lyricism. “Someone must, on bended knee /<br />
Mourn the death of a star and sing another into being.”<br />
The intervening eight songs showcase a singer who holds<br />
a tune with an elastic multi-octave voice that echoes a<br />
girlish timbre in contrast to the adult themes. Elemental,<br />
Osman’s second album, succeeds in its simple setting,<br />
where her debut wallowed in vapid excess, hiding the<br />
richness of her voice that makes her lyrics ring. With cover<br />
songs by Marley, Jobim, and Andre Tanker, this album also<br />
focuses Osman’s neo-folk <strong>Caribbean</strong> aesthetic accurately<br />
towards accomplishment and elation.<br />
30 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
Single Spotlight<br />
No One Tano & Kalpee (self-released)<br />
Right off the bat, on their new<br />
single “No One”, Trinidadian<br />
producer Michael Montano<br />
and singer Christian Kalpee<br />
introduce an earworm that<br />
has been a hallmark of much<br />
popular hit music in 2016:<br />
the flutelike squiggle called<br />
the “dolphin.” EDM superproducers<br />
Skrillex and Diplo<br />
created this motif in the song “Where Are Ü Now”,<br />
where singer Justin Bieber’s “vocals are pinched into a<br />
dolphin call” at that song’s drop, using various distortion<br />
and equalisation effects. Tano & Kalpee have recreated<br />
this riff to maximum effect, making this laidback dance<br />
groove a choice between a regretful post-breakup<br />
song that successfully reflects a tropical house genre<br />
definition, or a lame imitation of a played-out hook.<br />
The former seems apt in this case, as Kalpee’s voice gives<br />
favour to a lyric and melody which signal a confident<br />
approach to hit songwriting and production that has<br />
global appeal. Our <strong>Caribbean</strong> reputation as dance music<br />
adventurers sustains here.<br />
Fete You R City (Precision Productions)<br />
Brothers Timothy and Theron<br />
Thomas (R City) of St Thomas<br />
in the US Virgin Islands are<br />
working with Trinidadian<br />
producer Kasey Phillips<br />
(Precision Productions) on a<br />
number of songs that point<br />
to a new direction in island<br />
music, where the modern<br />
R&B influences are subtle<br />
enough not to obscure the <strong>Caribbean</strong> musical accent,<br />
but still distinctive. The opening synth chord progression<br />
signals a pulse that will make couples get closer on the<br />
dance floor, while the vocals overlaid hint at something<br />
provocative: “I just want to fete you / From night ’til a<br />
morning / I know that you want it.” Once the song gets<br />
grooving its zouk-flavoured backbeat and soca phrasing,<br />
the double entendre becomes clear. “Fete You” is a<br />
sexy demand for something more than a party. This is<br />
hedonism with a capital “F.” It’s also a catchy tune that<br />
works by supplying a wider <strong>Caribbean</strong> palette for soca<br />
to evolve.<br />
Reviews by Nigel A. Campbell<br />
WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 31
SCREENSHOTS<br />
Site of Sites<br />
Directed by Natalia Cabral and Oriol Estrada, 2016,<br />
61 minutes<br />
A pair of coconut trees frames a beach at sunrise, waves<br />
lapping against the sand. This is no clichéd <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />
image, however: a wide, rutted ditch running into the sea<br />
points to disruptive human activity, which is reinforced by<br />
the piece of industrial equipment<br />
sitting off to the right. A man walks<br />
into the shot, up to the machine<br />
and switches it on. A puff of<br />
black smoke belches out, and the<br />
thrumming of the engine disturbs<br />
the dawn.<br />
So opens Site of Sites, the new<br />
documentary by Natalia Cabral<br />
and Oriol Estrada of the Dominican<br />
Republic. It furthers the direct<br />
approach to the non-fiction form that was so effectively<br />
on display in the duo’s debut, You and Me, a portrait of<br />
the relationship between a maid and her mistress. Site of<br />
Sites continues to probe themes explored in You and Me <strong>—</strong><br />
race, power, economics <strong>—</strong> but on a broader scale, even as it<br />
maintains that film’s equanimity and empathy.<br />
Site of Sites is set almost entirely within the confines of<br />
an upscale housing development somewhere in the DR.<br />
Precisely framed static shots <strong>—</strong> the camera never moves<br />
<strong>—</strong> showing the (invariably) black people employed as<br />
gardeners, domestics, and labourers, are interspersed with<br />
scenes showing the (invariably) white people who employ<br />
them relaxing in swimming pools, playing golf, and having<br />
barbecues. Conversation is largely<br />
desultory; people are simply living<br />
their lives.<br />
The cumulative result is a<br />
sobering rendering of black and<br />
white, poverty and wealth, work<br />
and play, a social dynamic little<br />
altered since it came into being<br />
centuries ago. (And, the film<br />
suggests, with little chance of<br />
being altered.) Site of Sites is<br />
exemplary of what can be done with little more than a<br />
camera in one’s hand and an idea in one’s head: politically<br />
committed and formally rigorous filmmaking of a very<br />
high order.<br />
For more information, visit faulafilms.com<br />
Green & Yellow<br />
Directed by Miquel Galofré, 2016, 19 minutes<br />
For a decade now,<br />
Barcelona-born, Trinidadand-Tobago–based<br />
filmmaker Miquel<br />
Galofré has been making<br />
acclaimed documentaries<br />
in the <strong>Caribbean</strong>.<br />
Whether they’re about<br />
prisoners creating music (Songs of Redemption) or atrisk<br />
children discovering the transformative power of<br />
art (Art Connect), Galofré’s films are characterised by<br />
their boundless empathy for the marginalised lives they<br />
celebrate, as well as their unforced optimism.<br />
His latest film, Green & Yellow, is a work of disarming<br />
and devastating simplicity. Shot on the streets of<br />
Port of Spain, it contains the interwoven, direct-tocamera<br />
testimonies of two homeless men, Sheldon<br />
“Sketch” Aberdeen and Shawn “Yankee” Brown, both<br />
crack cocaine users. There is no music score, and the<br />
cinematography is in stark black and white <strong>—</strong> until the<br />
closing moments, when the colours of the film’s title<br />
saturate the screen. The running time of Green & Yellow<br />
is just under twenty minutes; its power will remain with<br />
you for much longer than that.<br />
For more information, visit trinidadandtobagorocks.<br />
com<br />
I Am a Politician<br />
Directed by Javier Colón Ríos, 2016, 90 minutes<br />
Some explanatory<br />
text at the beginning<br />
of I Am a Politician<br />
declares this satire to<br />
be “almost a work of<br />
fiction” <strong>—</strong> which, given<br />
what follows, makes it<br />
a depressing reminder that we now live in the time of<br />
President Trump. Javier Colón Ríos’s follow-up to I Am<br />
a Director, his comic debut, I Am a Politician tracks the<br />
follies of Carlos (Carlos <strong>March</strong>and), an ex-convict seeking<br />
to become governor of Puerto Rico.<br />
Colón Ríos’s satire is light, sometimes even slight. Not<br />
all his gags work: for example, a joke involving Carlos<br />
“coming out” to his mother as a member of a political<br />
party different from hers feels forced. And some nuances<br />
may be lost on those not conversant with Puerto Rico’s<br />
unique political system. That said, the story of a boorish<br />
narcissist, opportunistically hopping from one political<br />
party to another, is one with which most people can no<br />
doubt identify.<br />
For more information, visit facebook.com/<br />
yosoyunpolitico<br />
Reviews by Jonathan Ali<br />
32 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
cookup<br />
A compendium of<br />
curry<br />
It’s one of the outstanding flavours of the <strong>Caribbean</strong>,<br />
enjoyed in everything from Jamaican curry goat to<br />
Trinidadian doubles. But where can you find the<br />
region’s best curries, and how is the cuisine changing?<br />
Franka Philip finds out<br />
Illustration by Shalini Seereeram<br />
One of my most mind-blowing<br />
food experiences ever was years<br />
ago at an Indian restaurant in<br />
Southall, West London. It was<br />
the first time I tried Indian food<br />
in Britain, and I wasn’t prepared<br />
for the depth of flavour the chefs at Madhu’s served<br />
up that Saturday afternoon.<br />
The korma and jalfrezi were far more complex<br />
than Trinidad curry <strong>—</strong> the taste defined by the<br />
Turban or Chief curry powder used religiously at<br />
home. Some of the flavours I had that afternoon<br />
took a bit of getting used to, but after that, I was<br />
game for trying more of the great spread of curries<br />
available in the UK.<br />
Most Indo-<strong>Caribbean</strong> people can trace their<br />
origins to the Subcontinent’s northern region<br />
of Uttar Pradesh. Indians started arriving in<br />
the <strong>Caribbean</strong> in the mid nineteenth century as<br />
replacement labour for enslaved Africans after<br />
Emancipation. However, because of the strictures<br />
of indentureship and the unavailability of some<br />
spices and herbs, Indo-<strong>Caribbean</strong> cuisine retained<br />
some traditional elements while also, over time,<br />
evolving into a style of its own.<br />
“There are hundreds of curries all around<br />
the world,” says scientist and curry gourmand<br />
Brian Singh. “Our curries tend to be heavy on<br />
turmeric and garam masala.” In other cultures,<br />
curries incorporate ingredients like coconut<br />
milk, lemongrass, and different chillies. Singh<br />
points to Malaysia, where curries typically<br />
use tamarind and shrimp paste. A Trinidadian<br />
based in Vanuatu, in the Pacific, Singh does have<br />
many plaudits for the curries of the <strong>Caribbean</strong>.<br />
“Jamaican goat curry is brilliant,” he says. “They<br />
use a lot of warm spices which go well with the<br />
gaminess of the goat.”<br />
Around the world, Jamaican goat curry, like<br />
jerk chicken, has become synonymous with<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> cuisine. In the UK, for example,<br />
festivals like Notting Hill Carnival are also a<br />
showcase for <strong>Caribbean</strong> food. It’s not unusual for<br />
revellers and spectators to eat thousands of plates<br />
of the sumptuous delicacies at food stalls along the<br />
parade route.<br />
The toughest parts of the goat are used for this<br />
recipe: they are seasoned and left overnight to<br />
marinate, then cooked low and slow to achieve<br />
a fall-off-the-bone tenderness. Well-travelled<br />
34 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
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Trinidadian journalist Wesley Gibbings also gives<br />
Jamaican goat curry the thumbs up. “They prepare<br />
a luscious dish that is hardly uniform across the<br />
island, but all equally delicious. Contrary to some<br />
belief, the Jamaicans have a heavy hand with<br />
the spices and pepper, so don’t fool yourself into<br />
believing that extra spicy is anything near our light<br />
version of pepper.”<br />
Gibbings believes that, as far as the rest of<br />
the <strong>Caribbean</strong> goes, you’re likely to get the best<br />
curry in Trinidad, Guyana, and Suriname. “I can’t<br />
think of another place where I have had a curry<br />
duck and paratha that match Trini style the way<br />
the Surinamese prepare it. It is just the right mix<br />
of spice and the earthy flavour that makes curry<br />
stand apart from other ways of preparing meat and<br />
vegetable dishes.”<br />
Gibbings is less impressed with curry in other<br />
parts of the <strong>Caribbean</strong>. “The Eastern <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />
islands do not yet understand the concept of<br />
curry,” he says, “except where Trinis or Guyanese<br />
have set up shop. In Antigua you get a good balance<br />
between the two styles, but in St Lucia, except for<br />
the guy who set up shop near Rodney Bay recently,<br />
we may conclude that the idea of what constitutes<br />
a good curry meal is a rather vague one.<br />
“In Sint Maarten,” Gibbings adds, “the Guyanese<br />
there have made sure you enjoy fairly authentic<br />
stuff, but don’t hold your breath in Barbados,<br />
where there is an arguably equal share of Trini and<br />
Guyanese influences. Perhaps the good stuff is in<br />
the homes of such expats.”<br />
And what is the future for <strong>Caribbean</strong> curry?<br />
Both Singh and Gibbings believe that<br />
there’s a lot of potential, especially with the<br />
growth of street food as a big attraction for foodies<br />
everywhere. Trinidad’s doubles <strong>—</strong> a delicacy made<br />
with curried chickpeas and two flatbreads called<br />
barras <strong>—</strong> is already practically a national dish. There<br />
have been several recent experiments with doubles,<br />
like gourmet versions where different kinds of meat<br />
are added. There’s also been an attempt to combine<br />
Chinese and Indian elements in a delicacy called<br />
“chubbles.” Rather than barras, Chinese pancakes<br />
are used. Beyond the novelty factor, “chubbles” was<br />
a short-lived experiment, as the creators never quite<br />
got the flavour balance right.<br />
Singh feels the “chubbles” experiment is<br />
a natural progression, “an expression of our<br />
cosmopolitanism.” Gibbings meanwhile has a few<br />
tips for chefs about how to take curry forward. “I<br />
would say the added coconut of Tobagonian fare is<br />
the right way to go, and cooks should ease up a bit<br />
Because of the unavailability of some<br />
spices and herbs, Indo-<strong>Caribbean</strong> cuisine<br />
retained some traditional elements while<br />
also evolving into a style of its own<br />
on the chadon beni” <strong>—</strong> a herb similar to coriander<br />
or cilantro, widely used in Trinidadian cooking <strong>—</strong><br />
“and other green seasoning. I think the overuse of<br />
pepper has its fans, but I am not one, since I just<br />
love to have the curry taste mixed in with lightly<br />
seasoned goat or duck linger for some time after I<br />
have swallowed the last mouthful.”<br />
And Singh believes chefs must become more<br />
innovative. “We have to take the basic tenets of<br />
the cuisine, build, and innovate. We don’t have that<br />
much high-end curry in the region, and with a bit of<br />
passion, a lot can be achieved. Maybe chefs could<br />
try using different condiments,” Singh suggests.<br />
“In India, chefs use pickles to get a balance of<br />
hot, sour, sweet, and salty. Like a good symphony,<br />
curry is a beautiful mixture of flavours.” n<br />
Surinamese curried chicken<br />
Ingredients:<br />
1 whole chicken, cut in small pieces<br />
5 cloves garlic, chopped<br />
½ onion, sliced<br />
1 tomato or 1 tsp tomato paste<br />
3 tsp curry or masala powder<br />
2 bouillon cubes<br />
black pepper<br />
salt<br />
1 tbs parsley or celery, finely chopped<br />
1 fresh pepper (optional)<br />
3 tbs oil<br />
1 cup water<br />
Rinse the chicken and drain. Heat the oil and add the onion and garlic. Stir<br />
frequently, adding the tomato, bouillon cubes, curry powder, and fresh<br />
pepper. Mix thoroughly until tomato is almost dissolved. Add the chicken<br />
and turn over to cover with curry mix. Add some black pepper and salt if<br />
necessary. Lower temperature and cover the pan, cooking the chicken for<br />
about 10 minutes before turning it over.<br />
The chicken should produce its own liquid. If not, add 1/2 cup of water<br />
and let it simmer uncovered for another 10 minutes. When the meat is<br />
done (30 to 45 minutes), turn off the heat and sprinkle the parsley or celery<br />
on the chicken. Curried chicken is served with roti, vegetables, and curried<br />
potatoes. You can also eat it with steamed rice.<br />
From multiculticooking.com<br />
36 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
Immerse<br />
Euzhan Palcy in 1992 <strong>—</strong> an alternate photo from the shoot that produced our first cover, twenty-five years ago<br />
Bettmann / getty images
For twenty-five years, <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> has celebrated the best and<br />
brightest of <strong>Caribbean</strong> culture and people <strong>—</strong> as you can see in the<br />
panorama of our 144 covers, and the stories behind them<br />
In early 1992, passengers boarding BWIA planes across<br />
the <strong>Caribbean</strong>, South and North America, and Europe<br />
found something new in their seat-pockets: a magazine<br />
by the name of <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong>, with the watchful face of a<br />
Martiniquan filmmaker on the cover.<br />
As those early readers turned the magazine’s pages,<br />
they discovered a profile of director Euzhan Palcy, a memoir by<br />
Trinidad-born broadcaster Trevor McDonald, and previews of<br />
the <strong>Caribbean</strong>’s yearlong Carnival calendar and the upcoming<br />
Carifesta arts festival. They found articles on Tobago Sailing<br />
Week and a fashion portfolio by some leading <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />
designers, alongside a thoughtful essay on the state of West Indies<br />
cricket and a business report on trade liberalisation across the<br />
region. So the key ingredients were all there at the very beginning:<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> arts and culture, travel and current affairs, explored<br />
from a <strong>Caribbean</strong> perspective, with a <strong>Caribbean</strong> audience in mind.<br />
Twenty-five years later, so many things have changed.<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong>’s airline partner, for example: we’re now the<br />
official inflight magazine of <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines, celebrating its<br />
own tenth anniversary in <strong>2017</strong>. The masthead design is different.<br />
Originally published quarterly, the magazine has appeared<br />
bimonthly since late 1995. Nowadays, our editorial and<br />
production process is completely digital: it’s been many years<br />
since a writer filed copy via fax, or a photographer turned up<br />
with a case of film slides. And the <strong>Caribbean</strong> region has changed<br />
too, in countless ways <strong>—</strong> social, cultural, political.<br />
But some things haven’t changed much at all. <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />
is still published from the same small office space in Port of<br />
Spain <strong>—</strong> we prefer to think of it as cosy, rather than cramped<br />
<strong>—</strong> and by a tiny editorial team. (Most of the current editorial<br />
staff were schoolchildren back in 1992.) Some of the writers,<br />
photographers, and illustrators whose work appeared in our<br />
first issues a quarter-century ago are still regular contributors,<br />
alongside dozens of others in the bank of talent we’ve built up<br />
over the years.<br />
And the contents of the magazine, the words and images<br />
that fill our pages, still hold to <strong>Caribbean</strong>’s <strong>Beat</strong>’s original brief:<br />
to explore and portray the <strong>Caribbean</strong> as it really is, rich in<br />
complexities and contradictions, and to celebrate the best and<br />
most brilliant of our people and our culture.<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> has never been a typical inflight magazine <strong>—</strong><br />
and that’s to the credit of <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines (and BWIA before<br />
them). Of course, we’ve covered <strong>Caribbean</strong> travel from the very<br />
beginning, including the beaches, resorts, and festivals that the<br />
region is best known for. But we know the <strong>Caribbean</strong> is much more<br />
than that: it’s our writers and artists, our scientists and inventors,<br />
our sportsmen and -women, philanthropists and thinkers.<br />
The <strong>Caribbean</strong> is coconut trees and deckchairs, of course, but<br />
it’s also skyscrapers and high-tech concert halls, universities and<br />
cricket grounds. It’s Jamaica’s lushly forested Cockpit Country<br />
and the “blue holes” of Andros in the Bahamas, the stark<br />
desertscape of the arid ABC islands and the vast savannahs of<br />
Guyana. It’s ruined Mayan pyramids in the jungle of Belize and<br />
the Hindu Temple in the Sea in Trinidad.<br />
Like the airline that connects the far-flung peoples of the<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> region, with our many languages and ethnicities,<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> brings together in its pages the diversity of<br />
elements that makes our part of the world so fascinating<br />
and bewildering. The energy, creativity, and diversity of the<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong>, formed in the crucible of our history, make us unique.<br />
Looking back over the past twenty-five years, we realise how<br />
aptly those qualities are represented in the 144 covers we’ve<br />
published <strong>—</strong> as you can see for yourself in the following pages.<br />
Here are landscapes familiar and unexpected, the colour and<br />
spectacle of festivals, flora, and fauna, the work of artists, the<br />
gestures of performance, and above all the faces of <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />
people, famous or not, reflecting our sheer variousness. So we’ve<br />
taken the opportunity of this milestone to revisit the stories<br />
behind some of those cover images. Why did we choose those<br />
images back then, and what’s happened to their subjects in the<br />
intervening years?<br />
For this telling panorama, and for <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong>’s huge<br />
(and we think valuable) archive of stories and images,<br />
we thank the hundreds of writers, photographers, and<br />
artists we’ve worked with over the years. The life of a<br />
magazine, behind the scenes, is replete with small thrills, the occasional<br />
crisis, and an unending series of deadlines. Generations of<br />
editorial, sales, and production staff have known that the magazine<br />
is only as good as its next issue <strong>—</strong> and have worked with dedication<br />
and imagination to earn <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> its reputation as<br />
one of the region’s best-informed, best-written, and best-looking<br />
magazines. (For the latter, we owe special thanks to Russell Halfhide,<br />
<strong>Beat</strong>’s designer from 1992 to 2007, who gave the magazine<br />
its elegant, approachable style at the very beginning.) We’re grateful<br />
for <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines’ consistent support, and their belief in<br />
the value of a magazine that looks beyond the stereotypes to the<br />
real heart of our people and culture. And, of course, we also owe<br />
thanks to you, our readers <strong>—</strong> for your encouragement, suggestions,<br />
and even your criticism, which have helped shape our sense<br />
of the magazine’s mission.<br />
We hope you share our pride in reaching this anniversary<br />
<strong>—</strong> which we commemorate, above all, by simply doing the<br />
thing we’ve done for the past quarter-century: imagining what’s<br />
possible for the next issue, and the ones after that, and then<br />
racing after the deadlines.<br />
Nicholas Laughlin, Editor<br />
38 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
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The very first <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> cover featured not a palm-fringed shore, nor a dazzling Carnival<br />
costume, nor a colourful tropical bird <strong>—</strong> those were all still to come <strong>—</strong> but a portrait of the<br />
filmmaker Euzhan Palcy. That cover was a declaration that the new magazine would pay<br />
serious attention to the <strong>Caribbean</strong>’s arts and culture, and our region’s extraordinary creative<br />
and intellectual talent. Writing in our 75th issue, back in September/October 2005, <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />
<strong>Beat</strong>’s founding editor Jeremy Taylor explained why this photo of Palcy “set the agenda”:<br />
1 • Martiniquan film<br />
director Euzhan Palcy<br />
Spring 1992<br />
Photo by Ph. Giraud/Sygma<br />
I still have a soft spot for the very first cover<br />
we published, back in January 1992.<br />
Looking back at it now, it’s hard to see<br />
why. The tones are grey, the subject is stiff<br />
and formal, and there’s a dated feel to the<br />
image. The photo is not even by a <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />
photographer (in 1992 we could not afford to<br />
commission a cover image, and had to make<br />
do with a studio PR photo).<br />
Since 1992, many of our covers have<br />
been more colourful, more appealing, more<br />
popular. There have been beaches and boats,<br />
beautiful people, landscapes and seascapes,<br />
sports heroes, singers, musicians, Carnival<br />
people, striking graphics and paintings. I like<br />
them all, and feel proud of many of them. Yet<br />
that very first cover somehow managed to<br />
announce what <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> was going to<br />
be all about.<br />
Hardly anyone recognised Palcy. Few<br />
people had seen her brilliant movie Rue Cases<br />
Nègres (Sugar Cane Alley), though it’s a classic<br />
of the independent film world. Nobody<br />
associated her with the 1989 MGM release<br />
A Dry White Season, where she directed<br />
Donald Sutherland, Susan Sarandon, and<br />
Marlon Brando (who appeared free, because<br />
he liked what she was doing). Nobody knew<br />
this was a woman who had Robert Redford<br />
and François Truffaut as professional<br />
“godfathers.”<br />
Why (that cover asked) is <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />
filmmaking not taken seriously? Why do<br />
we think of the <strong>Caribbean</strong> as a romantic<br />
backdrop for other people’s movies, not for<br />
making our own?<br />
We saw Euzhan Palcy as a formidable<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> woman who had broken through<br />
ethnic and gender stereotypes into a<br />
notoriously difficult industry and had<br />
produced some powerful work. She was<br />
interested in making <strong>Caribbean</strong> films, not<br />
perpetuating <strong>Caribbean</strong> stereotypes. It<br />
was exactly the sort of achievement that<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> wanted to discover and<br />
celebrate.<br />
So that very first <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> cover<br />
did not depict a wonderful golden beach, or<br />
a sunset, or a luxurious villa. It made the<br />
statement that the <strong>Caribbean</strong> is more than its<br />
beaches, more than rum punch and partying,<br />
wonderful and liberating though those<br />
pleasures are. The <strong>Caribbean</strong> is not just a<br />
romantic backdrop: it has successes and<br />
achievements of its own, world-class people<br />
in sport and science, music and business,<br />
writing and the visual arts. And we wanted<br />
our readers to know about them too.<br />
Since then . . .<br />
When Euzhan Palcy appeared on the cover<br />
of our Spring 1992 issue, she was already,<br />
at the age of thirty-four, recognised as an<br />
icon of <strong>Caribbean</strong> filmmaking. Her 1983<br />
debut, Rue Cases Nègres (adapted from<br />
Alfred Zobel’s novel), had earned her a<br />
César Award <strong>—</strong> the French equivalent of an<br />
Oscar <strong>—</strong> and a Silver Lion at the Venice Film<br />
Festival, plus a dozen other international<br />
awards. The screenplay <strong>—</strong> which she started<br />
while still a film student in Paris <strong>—</strong> had won<br />
the admiration of famed French director<br />
François Truffaut, and Aimé Césaire, the<br />
celebrated Martiniquan poet and mayor<br />
of Fort-de-France, had helped secure the<br />
production budget. Rue Cases Nègres was a<br />
rare example of a film almost immediately<br />
recognised as a classic.<br />
Despite this early success, Palcy’s second<br />
project was six years in the making.<br />
The subject she’d set her heart on <strong>—</strong> an<br />
adaptation of South African writer André<br />
Brink’s anti-apartheid novel A Dry White<br />
Season <strong>—</strong> proved difficult to raise financial<br />
support for. Still, Palcy was determined to<br />
make a politically hard-hitting film. She<br />
even travelled to South Africa, pretending<br />
continued on page 42<br />
40 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
“I will never compromise in a<br />
way that distorts history,” says<br />
Euzhan Palcy<br />
Thierry van biesen<br />
WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 41
courtesy euzhanpalcy.net<br />
Still from Rue Cases Nègres<br />
to be a musician, to research conditions in<br />
Soweto. It took some hard lobbying and<br />
an unshakeable faith in her creative vision,<br />
but she succeeded, securing the juggernaut<br />
MGM as producer. A Dry White Season made<br />
Palcy the first black woman filmmaker to be<br />
produced by a major Hollywood studio, and<br />
won another slew of awards, including an<br />
Oscar nomination for star Marlon Brando.<br />
The film’s success inevitably brought<br />
offers, from Hollywood and elsewhere, to<br />
work on more “commercial” projects. But<br />
Palcy’s sense of political commitment and<br />
her resolution to follow her own creative<br />
instincts led her, over the years, to turn<br />
down many such “opportunities.” “People<br />
think, Oh where is she?” Palcy said in a<br />
2015 interview. “She did those movies and<br />
she disappeared.” In fact, she’s created a<br />
solid body of work that speaks to the range<br />
of her concerns, from the culture of her<br />
native Martinique to questions of social<br />
justice around the world.<br />
The lighthearted Simeon (1992), set in<br />
Martinique and France, tells the tale of<br />
zouk music and its impact on the world.<br />
Palcy has also made a documentary<br />
about Césaire <strong>—</strong> hero of the Négritude<br />
movement, and her own mentor <strong>—</strong> and<br />
another about the young men and women<br />
of Martinique who fled the island to<br />
join the Free French army during the<br />
Second World War. The biographical Ruby<br />
Bridges (1998), produced by Disney, is a<br />
profile in courage from the US Civil Rights<br />
Movement: the story of a six-year-old girl<br />
who was the first African-American child<br />
to desegregate an all-white school in New<br />
Orleans. It was followed by The Killing Yard<br />
(2001), about the infamous 1971 Attica<br />
prison riot and its effect on the struggle for<br />
prison rights in the United States.<br />
And Palcy’s magnum opus may be yet<br />
to come. For over twenty years, she’s been<br />
working on a feature film about Haitian<br />
revolutionary hero Toussaint L’Ouverture.<br />
More than two centuries after the Haitian<br />
revolution, Toussaint remains a figure both<br />
inspiring and deeply controversial, and<br />
Palcy is determined to tell his story her<br />
way. No surprise, then, that there’ve been<br />
setbacks and numerous delays. “I will never<br />
compromise in a way that distorts history or<br />
hurts my project,” she says. It’s an ethos her<br />
successors in the <strong>Caribbean</strong> film industry<br />
can learn from <strong>—</strong> as much as from her<br />
indelible films.<br />
5 • Greeting the sun<br />
Spring 1993<br />
Photo by Steve Cohn<br />
6 • A blue horizon<br />
Summer 1993<br />
Photo by Darrell Jones<br />
7 • Drop anchor<br />
Autumn 1993<br />
Photo by Edmund Nägele<br />
8 • Crystal plays pan<br />
Winter 1993/4<br />
Photo by David Ross<br />
42 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
2 • Ariane rocket lifts off<br />
from French Guiana<br />
Summer 1992<br />
Photo courtesy Arianespace<br />
A <strong>Caribbean</strong> rocket<br />
launch? Yes: since 1971 the<br />
Centre Spatial Guyanais<br />
in Kourou, French Guiana,<br />
has been the major<br />
launching site for the<br />
European space agency,<br />
thanks to its location near<br />
the equator <strong>—</strong> where<br />
the earth’s spin gives an<br />
extra nudge to departing<br />
rockets, allowing them to<br />
carry a heavier payload.<br />
3 • Trinidadian masman<br />
Peter Minshall<br />
Autumn 1992<br />
Photo by Maria Espeus<br />
4 • Fashion ensemble by<br />
Shirley de Cabral<br />
Winter 1992/3<br />
Photo by Harold Prieto<br />
David Rudder’s soulful portrait on the cover of our Spring 1994 issue introduced a profile by<br />
writer Debbie Jacob, who tackled the question of whether and how the popular Trinidadian<br />
singer would find an international “breakthrough.” Twenty-three years later, Jacob looks back<br />
at Rudder’s career in music:<br />
9 • Trinidadian calypsonian<br />
David Rudder<br />
Spring 1994<br />
Photo by Abigail Hadeed<br />
When David Rudder graced the cover of<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> in 1994, he’d already been<br />
a defining voice of Trinidad and Tobago<br />
Carnival for eight years. At that pivotal point<br />
of his musical career, calypso fans could look<br />
back on the bluesy, soulful soca singer from<br />
Charlie’s Roots who in 1986 became the first<br />
lead singer from a brass band to capture the<br />
national calypso monarch title with “The<br />
Hammer”, a tribute to the late, great pan<br />
arranger Rudolph Charles, and the “Bahia<br />
Girl” with her bouncy Baptist beat. In that<br />
moment, he had redefined the calypso stage<br />
in much the way the Mighty Sparrow did in<br />
Rudder is a performer who carved an<br />
original place in calypso history<br />
the 1950s, making it a daring display of rich,<br />
lyrical social commentary with an upbeat,<br />
jazzed-up, soca beat.<br />
By 1994, Rudder had penned “Rally<br />
’Round the West Indies”, which would<br />
become the theme song of the West Indies<br />
cricket team. He had songs featured in the<br />
Hollywood movie Wild Orchid. And the hits<br />
kept coming: “Haiti”, a lyrical lament for the<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> nation; “The Engine Room”, a<br />
tribute to the percussion side of a steelband;<br />
and “Calypso Music”, a joyful history of the<br />
art form. By 1995, he had become bolder<br />
and more political by offering the album The<br />
Lyrics Man, with his distinct brand of calypso<br />
rap, including stinging political irony in<br />
“Another Day in Paradise”.<br />
By 1998, Rudder had climbed to the<br />
pinnacle of success with the album Beloved.<br />
Projecting a strong sense of history, Rudder<br />
crossed musical boundaries and injected a<br />
sense of spirituality into Carnival with “High<br />
Mas”, a collision of puns that stretched from<br />
the Roman Catholic church’s sacred liturgies<br />
to the profane street theatre of Carnival. The<br />
celebratory experience of Trinidad culture<br />
culminated in the title song “Beloved”, a<br />
nostalgic look at the island’s soul-filled<br />
sense of community. The following year, he<br />
addressed the growing ethnic rift perceived<br />
by many people in politics and society with a<br />
calypso reminding Carnival revellers of their<br />
ethnic roots, represented by the rivers that<br />
define their history: “The Ganges and the<br />
Nile”.<br />
Rudder’s career took a new direction<br />
when he married and moved to Canada in<br />
2002. That experience would manifest itself<br />
the following year in “Trini to the Bone”,<br />
a celebration of those roots that ensure<br />
Rudder’s connection to Carnival and elevate<br />
him to the role of calypso ambassador.<br />
Distance has not eroded the legacy of his<br />
lasting voice: he’s destined to be remembered<br />
as a performer who carved an original place<br />
in calypso history.<br />
WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 43
10 • Casting a net<br />
Summer 1994<br />
Photo by Eleanor Chandler<br />
13 • Actress Renée Castle<br />
Spring 1995<br />
Photo by Sean Drakes<br />
11 • Purple honeycreeper<br />
Autumn 1994<br />
Photo by Roger Neckles<br />
Back in the 1990s, it seems,<br />
a colourful outfit of batik<br />
or handpainted fabric was<br />
de rigueur for well-dressed<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> women. In our<br />
first four and a half years of<br />
publication, no fewer than<br />
five cover images featured<br />
subjects in batik attire.<br />
12 • Trinidadian cricket legend<br />
Brian Lara<br />
Winter 1994/5<br />
Photo by Shaun Botterill/Allsport<br />
1994 was the year Brian<br />
Lara was popularly anointed<br />
“Prince of Port of Spain,” as<br />
in the space of two months<br />
he broke two major cricket<br />
records <strong>—</strong> most runs scored<br />
in a single Test innings and<br />
most runs ever in a first-class<br />
match <strong>—</strong> and entered the<br />
realm of legend. Profiling<br />
Lara in our Winter 1994/5<br />
issue <strong>—</strong> where he made the<br />
first of two <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />
cover appearances <strong>—</strong> B.C.<br />
Pires wrote: “The only real<br />
question . . . is how high and<br />
how far he can go.” Now,<br />
looking back more than two<br />
decades over one of the most<br />
illustrious sports careers of<br />
our times, Vaneisa Baksh<br />
explains what Lara meant for<br />
the game of cricket and his<br />
fans around the world:<br />
14 • Trinidadian Bharata<br />
Natyam dancer Shwetha Verma<br />
Summer 1995<br />
Photo by Sean Drakes<br />
15 • Barbadian windsurfing<br />
champion Brian Talma<br />
Autumn 1995<br />
Photo by D.W. Hollenbeck<br />
16 • The Jolly Roger<br />
cruising off Barbados<br />
November/December 1995<br />
Photo by Eleanor Chandler<br />
17 • Catching some rays<br />
January/February 1996<br />
Photo by Eleanor Chandler<br />
20 • Jetty view<br />
July/August 1996<br />
Photo by Roxan Kinas<br />
21 • Batik, sari-style<br />
September/October 1996<br />
Photo by Sonya Sanchez/Camera Art<br />
22 • Courland Bay, Tobago<br />
November/December 1996<br />
Photo by Mark Lyndersay<br />
23 • Songs of the Earth on Victoria<br />
Avenue<br />
January/February 1997<br />
Detail of painting by Brian Wong Won<br />
44 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
To be the holder of multiple<br />
world records <strong>—</strong> highest<br />
individual score in a Test<br />
(twice: 375 and 400), in<br />
first-class (501), runs in<br />
one Test over (28), and the<br />
only batsman in first class<br />
games to have scored one,<br />
two, three, four, and five<br />
centuries <strong>—</strong> is rightfully to<br />
be acknowledged as one<br />
of the greatest batsmen in<br />
cricket history.<br />
The impact of Brian<br />
Charles Lara’s personal<br />
achievements was amplified<br />
by the circumstances under<br />
which he accumulated<br />
them. From 1993, when he<br />
scored 277 and captured<br />
international attention,<br />
to his last West Indian<br />
appearance in 2007, he was<br />
part of a team on an unhappy<br />
trajectory towards cricket<br />
ignominy. West Indies<br />
supporters were regularly<br />
crushed by the unrelenting<br />
losses, but Lara gave them <strong>—</strong><br />
gave the world <strong>—</strong> something<br />
that sparkled beyond the<br />
gloom. On the field, he<br />
embodied greatness, and<br />
for West Indian societies,<br />
struggling with rampant<br />
mediocrity in leadership<br />
and politics that was<br />
manifest in weak economies,<br />
growing crime, and brazen<br />
corruption, he was a<br />
reminder of the magnificence<br />
that has periodically erupted<br />
in our history.<br />
Lara’s feats were<br />
celebrated worldwide, and<br />
West Indians were able to<br />
bask in that reflected glory.<br />
Bestowed with high honours<br />
<strong>—</strong> the Trinity Cross (as it was<br />
then known in Trinidad and<br />
Tobago), the Order of the<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> Community, the<br />
Order of Australia <strong>—</strong> he had<br />
a remarkable career that was<br />
dogged by difficulty, not least<br />
of which was the ongoing<br />
adversarial relationship<br />
between players and the<br />
West Indies Cricket Board.<br />
He was named captain of<br />
the West Indies team three<br />
times, and despite his super<br />
status as a batsman, could<br />
never claim to be a winning<br />
captain like Clive Lloyd or<br />
Viv Richards. Instead, he<br />
presided over a team with<br />
wildly fluctuating fortunes,<br />
where victories were few<br />
and embarrassments were<br />
many, though individual<br />
performances were often<br />
brilliant. But, in his time, he<br />
became one of the first of the<br />
breed of wealthy cricketers<br />
who brought business<br />
savvy to their dealings,<br />
and saw endorsements and<br />
sponsorships as a natural<br />
extension of their cricket<br />
incomes. That breed changed<br />
international cricket forever.<br />
In his retirement, apart<br />
from his event management<br />
business, he has become<br />
a global ambassador<br />
for cricket, travelling<br />
extensively, often alongside<br />
Sir Garry Sobers, who<br />
recently described him as<br />
“my dearest friend.” Lara,<br />
says Sobers, is doing very<br />
well. “Brian’s got his own<br />
agenda. He travels a lot<br />
and he does things all over<br />
the world. He does a lot for<br />
cricket. And he’s a nice boy.”<br />
18 • Guyana’s Kaieteur Falls<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 1996<br />
Photo by Mark Lyndersay<br />
24 • Trinidadian Penny Chow,<br />
Miss Universe 1977<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 1997<br />
Photo by Abigail Hadeed<br />
19 • Trinidadian sprinter<br />
Ato Boldon<br />
May/June 1996<br />
Photo by Gary M. Prior/Allsport<br />
Heading into the 1996 Summer Olympics in Atlanta,<br />
Trinidadian sprinter Ato Boldon seemed one of the<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong>’s best hopes for a medal. A year before, he’d<br />
won the 100-metre bronze at the World Championships<br />
in Gothenburg <strong>—</strong> at just twenty-one, the youngest athlete<br />
ever to medal in the sprint event. And, indeed, he did take<br />
home two medals from Atlanta <strong>—</strong> bronze in both the 100-<br />
and 200-metre races <strong>—</strong> though precious gold eluded him<br />
this time.<br />
That wasn’t the case the following year, when Boldon<br />
won the 200-metre World Championship gold in Athens,<br />
or in 1998, when he took the 100-metre gold at the<br />
Commonwealth Games in Kuala Lumpur, setting a stillunbeaten<br />
Commonwealth Games record of 9.88 seconds.<br />
A serious hamstring injury took him out of the 1999 World<br />
Championships, but hopes were high, nonetheless, for<br />
further Olympic glory at the 2000 games in Sydney. There, Boldon won the silver in<br />
the 100 metres, beaten by US sprinter Maurice Greene (and with Barbadian Obadele<br />
Thompson in third place), and the 200-metre bronze.<br />
That was to be his final Olympic medal <strong>—</strong> after a car accident in 2002, Boldon never<br />
again ran under ten seconds in the 100 metres or under twenty seconds in the 200. But his<br />
Olympic silver and three bronzes still place him in rare company: only three other male<br />
athletes have ever won as many or more Olympic individual event sprint medals. And in<br />
his post-competition life Boldon has turned his knowledge of the game and on-camera<br />
charisma into a thriving career as a television commentator <strong>—</strong> most recently, Sports<br />
Illustrated named him 2016’s best TV analyst for his coverage of the Rio Olympics.<br />
WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 45
When a dancing Machel Montano fronted the May/June 1997 <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> <strong>—</strong> his first of<br />
four cover appearances <strong>—</strong> he was just twenty-two years old, but already more than a decade<br />
into a musical career that would soon see him dominate the soca genre and Trinidad and<br />
Tobago’s Carnival. It’s no exaggeration to describe the past two decades of T&T music as the<br />
Age of Machel. Laura Dowrich explains why:<br />
25 • Trinidad soca legend<br />
Machel Montano<br />
May/June 1997<br />
Photo courtesy Delicious Vinyl<br />
Every year, a week before masqueraders<br />
take to the streets of Trinidad for the reign<br />
of the Merry Monarch, thousands pack into<br />
Port of Spain’s Hasely Crawford Stadium for<br />
the biggest show in Carnival. The show is<br />
Machel Monday. The star: Machel Montano,<br />
five-time Soca Monarch, eight-time Road<br />
<strong>March</strong> champ, and the indisputable king of<br />
soca.<br />
Others have given themselves that title,<br />
based on their mainstream success, but none<br />
can boast a thirty-five-year career in the art<br />
form, practically the same number of albums,<br />
or a brand that dominates the Carnival scene<br />
<strong>—</strong> whether or not they are even present.<br />
Montano entered the calypso arena as<br />
a child, but came of age in 1997, with the<br />
game-changing release of his Heavy Duty<br />
album. The album and its debut single “Big<br />
Truck” catapulted the “Too Young to Soca”<br />
singer into the role of Carnival’s winerboy.<br />
The lithe young man with a waist like<br />
butter has now evolved into a sage fortytwo-year-old<br />
That was the first year he appeared in<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong>, where writer Pat Ganase<br />
noted that the twenty-two-year-old was<br />
notorious for every kind of “wine.”<br />
Montano doesn’t wine that much these<br />
days. The lithe young man with a waist like<br />
butter has now evolved into a sage forty-twoyear-old<br />
who posts inspirational quotes daily<br />
on Instagram. But he still churns out hits to<br />
make people dance, think, celebrate, and<br />
debate.<br />
The key to Montano’s longevity and<br />
success has been his ability to change,<br />
adapt, and push the limits of his genre,<br />
while keeping his eye on his oft-repeated<br />
mission to make soca popular and take it to<br />
the four corners of the earth. He’s pursued<br />
this relentlessly, pushing boundaries, taking<br />
risks, and setting trends. He was the first to<br />
collaborate with Jamaican dancehall singers,<br />
opening the door for them to become staples<br />
on the soca scene. He was the first to marry<br />
house music with soca on 1995’s “Come<br />
Dig It”, later opening the floodgates to EDM<br />
soca with “AoA”. He sought international<br />
collaborations, teaming up with the likes of<br />
Pitbull, rappers Lil John and Wyclef Jean,<br />
among others, R&B group Boyz II Men,<br />
and South African group Ladysmith Black<br />
Mambazo, to name just a few.<br />
He’s taken the music far: to Egypt, India,<br />
and South Africa, filming videos, meeting<br />
songwriters and producers, and looking for<br />
sounds to infuse with his. In 2007, he became<br />
the first soca artist to headline his own show<br />
at Madison Square Garden in New York, and<br />
he’s performed on stages at Radio City Music<br />
Hall, Coachella, and South by Southwest.<br />
To maintain his position atop the pack,<br />
Montano <strong>—</strong> now an elder in the music<br />
arena with his thirty-five years’ experience<br />
<strong>—</strong> surrounds himself with young talent:<br />
songwriters, producers, musicians, and<br />
singers who help to keep his sound fresh<br />
and trendy.<br />
But nowhere has his evolution been<br />
reflected more clearly than in his changing<br />
handles. In the early days, his band was<br />
known as Pranasonic, named after the<br />
Prana Lands area in Siparia, south Trinidad,<br />
where Montano grew up. That changed to<br />
Xtatik. Then, as he changed the way his band<br />
functioned, he assumed the HD persona<br />
to reflect his mission to transmit a clearer<br />
image of who he is and what he’s about.<br />
In 2014, HD made way for Monk Monte.<br />
MONK, he said, was an acronym for the<br />
Movement of New Knowledge.<br />
With the new name came a new role,<br />
that of actor. Montano starred in his own<br />
film, Bazodee, a Bollywood-style love story<br />
set in T&T. In 2016, Bazodee became the<br />
first T&T-made film to be distributed in<br />
the US, Canada, and across the <strong>Caribbean</strong>.<br />
He’s expected to follow that up in <strong>2017</strong> with<br />
a documentary called Machel Montano:<br />
The Journey of a Soca King. That journey is<br />
far from over. For the foreseeable future,<br />
Montano’s crown seems secure.<br />
46 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
“I would hate to be a superstar,” said André Tanker to writer Judy Raymond, who profiled<br />
the beloved singer-composer in July/August 1997. Both his live performances and his<br />
recordings were relatively rare, but his death in 2003 <strong>—</strong> on Carnival Friday night <strong>—</strong> left a<br />
still-gaping absence in T&T’s music scene. Nearly twenty years after she interviewed him for<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong>, Raymond looks back at a musical talent that lives on in our cultural DNA:<br />
26 • Trinidadian musician<br />
André Tanker<br />
July/August 1997<br />
Photo by Mark Lyndersay<br />
André Tanker’s music might have been<br />
washed away in the torrent of soca that<br />
floods Trinidad at Carnival every year. But<br />
instead it’s outlasted almost all the local music<br />
produced since he died in 2003, at sixty-one.<br />
Tanker grew up in the middle-class Port of<br />
Spain neighbourhood of Woodbrook, home of<br />
the Invaders steelband, where he learned to<br />
play pan, and the Little Carib Theatre, where<br />
Beryl McBurnie was reviving folk dance and<br />
Orisha drummer Andrew Beddoe played for<br />
Derek Walcott’s Trinidad Theatre Workshop.<br />
But Tanker didn’t appreciate them fully<br />
until Afro-Trinidadians reclaimed their<br />
heritage in the 1970 Black Power Movement.<br />
“It gave you a perspective on who you are,<br />
what motivates you, why you like what you<br />
like,” Tanker said, looking back in 1997.<br />
That was when he understood he was<br />
entitled to draw on his entire birthright:<br />
calypso and reggae, jazz, blues, soul, Latin<br />
American music, African and Indian.<br />
“Children of a one great love,” he sang.<br />
Like many intuitive artists, he wasn’t<br />
easy to interview: low-key and laconic, he<br />
preferred his message to be conveyed by<br />
his music. Likewise, he was more composer<br />
than performer, though he played vibraphone<br />
and flute, and he sang his songs of love and<br />
the oneness of humankind, though his voice<br />
wasn’t his greatest asset.<br />
Walcott described Tanker’s work as<br />
“disciplined enough to be simple”; it was also<br />
rich enough to have enduring appeal. Even<br />
now, Trinis catch themselves humming “Wild<br />
Indian”, “Basement Party”, “Sayamanda”.<br />
His talent lay in blending traditions to make<br />
something that was at once fresh and familiar.<br />
27 • Barbadian soca star<br />
Edwin Yearwood<br />
September/October 1997<br />
Photo by Roxan Kinas<br />
28 • Parang season<br />
November/December 1997<br />
Illustration by Christopher<br />
Cozier<br />
29 • Masks of Carnival<br />
January/February 1998<br />
Photo by Sean Drakes<br />
30 • Kite season<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 1998<br />
Photo by Sean Drakes<br />
31 • Jamaica at the World Cup<br />
May/June 1998<br />
Photo by Doug Pensinger/Allsport<br />
Previewing that year’s FIFA World Cup<br />
in our May/June 1998 issue, Georgia<br />
Popplewell concluded, “For the first time<br />
since 1974, <strong>Caribbean</strong> people will really<br />
have a team to root for.” She was referring<br />
to Haiti’s national team, which unexpectedly<br />
qualified for the 1974 World Cup in West<br />
Germany <strong>—</strong> and to the Reggae Boyz, the<br />
Jamaican national team, which made history<br />
in 1998 as the first football team from the<br />
Anglophone <strong>Caribbean</strong> ever to go to the<br />
sport’s most prestigious tournament.<br />
“For a small country,” wrote Popplewell,<br />
“a national sports team is . . . a repository of<br />
civic dreams and aspirations.” Such was the<br />
case for Jamaica <strong>—</strong> even if the Reggae Boyz<br />
didn’t advance out of the finals’ first round.<br />
Five years later, it was Trinidad and<br />
Tobago’s chance. <strong>Beat</strong>ing Bahrain in a<br />
qualifying match, the Soca Warriors booked<br />
their tickets to the 2006 World Cup in<br />
Germany <strong>—</strong> and T&T became the smallest<br />
nation ever to qualify for the World Cup, a<br />
victory in its own right.<br />
WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 47
32 • T&T’s Wendy Fitzwilliam,<br />
Miss Universe 1998<br />
July/August 1998<br />
Photo by Ian Yee<br />
33 • Lisa Steele in a costume<br />
from Peter Minshall’s Red<br />
September/October 1998<br />
Photo by Sonya Sanchez-Arias<br />
34 • Fishing boats at Grand<br />
Anse, Grenada<br />
November/December 1998<br />
Photo by Mike Toy<br />
35 • Carnival spirit<br />
January/February 1999<br />
Illustration by Russel Halfhide<br />
38 • Barbadian soca star<br />
Alison Hinds<br />
July/August 1999<br />
Photo by Eric Young<br />
When Alison Hinds appeared on the cover of our July/August<br />
1999 issue, the “Bajan invasion” of Carnivals across the<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> was far advanced. Shelly-Ann Inniss explains how<br />
the island’s music scene has evolved over the past twenty years:<br />
The 1990s were arguably<br />
a high point for Barbadian<br />
music. The nightclub scene in<br />
Barbados was alive and well,<br />
and artistes were not afraid<br />
to experiment. This decade<br />
saw the rise of soca stars<br />
like Hinds alongside Rupee<br />
and Edwin Yearwood (who’d<br />
appeared on <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong>’s<br />
cover two years before); jazz/<br />
reggae saxophonist Arturo<br />
Tappin; calypso powerhouse<br />
Anthony “Mighty Gabby”<br />
Carter; and local band Spice<br />
and Company, just to start.<br />
Creativity seemed to be<br />
at an all-time high and the<br />
Barbadian sound was one<br />
of the leading influences in<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> music.<br />
Soca dominated the<br />
landscape and infiltrated<br />
foreign markets, allowing<br />
artistes to share their sound<br />
with global audiences.<br />
Rupee’s “Tempted to Touch”<br />
peaked at number 39 on the<br />
US Billboard Hot 100 chart<br />
and at 44 on the UK singles<br />
chart, and featured in the<br />
soundtrack of the Hollywood<br />
movie After the Sunset.<br />
Reggae, hip-hop, jazz,<br />
electronic dance music<br />
(EDM), and R&B also inspired<br />
the style of music performed<br />
and created by Barbadian<br />
musicians. By the mid 2000s,<br />
Barbados was producing<br />
international artistes from<br />
hybrid genres <strong>—</strong> Rihanna<br />
above all, but also Livvi<br />
Franc, Hal Linton, Shontelle,<br />
Teff Hinkson, Cover Drive,<br />
2 Mile Hill, and others.<br />
Barbadians are proud of<br />
their successful musicians,<br />
and have created the<br />
glamorous Barbados Music<br />
Awards and other festivals<br />
to highlight, showcase, and<br />
honour the wealth of musical<br />
talent within the country.<br />
Relevance and longevity<br />
are always concerns in the<br />
industry, and often it’s a battle<br />
of legend versus newcomer.<br />
Mahalia Cummins, lead<br />
singer of the band 2 Mile<br />
Hill, says the music scene is<br />
once again resurging. “Where<br />
support was previously<br />
lacking, young and upcoming<br />
artistes are working with<br />
42 • The Ramayana in Trinidad<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2000<br />
Illustration by Shalini Seereeram<br />
48 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM<br />
Some issues of <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> disappear off the planes<br />
faster than others <strong>—</strong> and sometimes a gorgeous cover<br />
image is the reason. The vivid tones of Shalini Seereeram’s<br />
Ramayana illustration for our <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2000 issue made<br />
it a favourite with readers <strong>—</strong> and changed the artist’s career.<br />
“I had no idea it was to be on the cover,” Seereeram recalls.<br />
“It came at a turning point in my career. I was working<br />
in graphic design and preparing for my first art show.<br />
Receiving the news that my art was to be on <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />
<strong>Beat</strong>’s cover was the push I needed to quit graphic design<br />
and focus on my art career.”<br />
43 • Sheikh Ibrahim Mosque,<br />
Caracas<br />
May/June 2000<br />
Photo by Wyatt Gallery
36 • Phagwah celebrations<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 1999<br />
Photo by Sean Drakes<br />
the more seasoned<br />
performers,” she explains.<br />
Hinds, our cover subject<br />
eighteen years ago, is one<br />
such artiste, and she’s<br />
always working behind<br />
the scenes collaborating<br />
with or mentoring younger<br />
talent. Most recently,<br />
she’s signed up to mentor<br />
the young people of the<br />
UNICEF <strong>Caribbean</strong> Junior<br />
Monarch Competition,<br />
which will launch officially<br />
in August this year.<br />
Soca is still a main<br />
staple in Barbadian<br />
music, meanwhile <strong>—</strong> and<br />
with names like Damian<br />
Marvay, Nikita, King<br />
Bubba, and Joaquin in the<br />
current mix, it’s not going<br />
to wind up anytime soon.<br />
Wining down <strong>—</strong> that’s a<br />
different matter.<br />
37 • Wendy Fitzwilliam,<br />
Miss Universe 1998<br />
May/June 1999<br />
Photo by Sean Drakes<br />
39 • Jamaican fast bowler<br />
Courtney Walsh<br />
September/October 1999<br />
Photo by Stu Forester/Allsport<br />
The <strong>Caribbean</strong> adores its beauty queens. For a small<br />
country, any citizen who wins positive international<br />
acclaim is a hero. And our various Misses Universe and<br />
World over the decades have also proven to be a talented,<br />
enterprising bunch, going on to careers in politics, the<br />
arts, and philanthropy. Grenadian Jennifer Hosten (Miss<br />
World 1970) later became a diplomat. Jamaican Cindy<br />
Breakspeare (Miss World 1976) may be best remembered<br />
as Bob Marley’s muse and the mother of his son Damien,<br />
but she’s also a successful recording artist in her own right.<br />
Her countrywoman Lisa Hanna (Miss World 1993) served<br />
as a Cabinet minister. And among the Trinidadians, Janelle<br />
Commissiong (Miss Universe 1977) and Giselle Laronde<br />
(Miss World 1986) both become successful businesswomen.<br />
No wonder, then, that T&T’s Wendy Fitzwilliam, Miss<br />
Universe 1998, managed to appear twice on <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong>’s<br />
cover, in July/August 1998 and again less than a year later,<br />
resplendent in Carnival costume. Her “reign” was just the<br />
beginning: a law student when she won her title, she was<br />
later admitted to the bar in her home country, honoured for<br />
her activism in HIV/AIDS awareness, recognised as a Red<br />
Cross Ambassador for Youth, published a well-received<br />
memoir, and now hosts the reality TV series <strong>Caribbean</strong>’s Top<br />
Model <strong>—</strong> all while maintaining her elegant but down-toearth<br />
presence on T&T’s social scene.<br />
40 • New directions?<br />
November/December 1999<br />
Illustration by Russel Halfhide<br />
41 • Welcoming a new millennium<br />
January/February 2000<br />
Illustration by Russel Halfhide<br />
Boats were a favourite cover subject in the magazine’s<br />
earlier years <strong>—</strong> no fewer than nine in all, ranging from<br />
fancy yachts to humble pirogues. How do other categories<br />
compare in the rankings? Three covers have depicted<br />
botanical subjects, and three have featured children playing<br />
on beaches. Seashells? Two. Surf-, windsurf-, and kiteboards?<br />
Three. Rivers? Five. At the other end of the scale:<br />
sportsmen and -women? Eighteen. Musicians? Twenty-four.<br />
We aren’t called <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> for nothing.<br />
44 • Bougainvillea greeting<br />
July/August 2000<br />
Photo by Sean Drakes<br />
45 • Sailing off St Vincent<br />
September/October 2000<br />
Photo by Chris Huxley<br />
WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 49
“If Trinidad has a soul, the place to hear it is in Mungal Patasar’s music.” Thus did writer Niala<br />
Maharaj begin her story on the renowned Trinidadian sitarist in our November/December<br />
2000 issue. And her incisive profile was complemented by photographer Mark Lyndersay’s<br />
portrait of Patasar on the cover. A prolific contributor of both images and words to <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />
<strong>Beat</strong> over the decades (with nine covers to his credit), Lyndersay recalls that photoshoot at<br />
Patasar’s house nearly seventeen years ago:<br />
46 • Mungal Patasar on<br />
the sitar<br />
November/December 2000<br />
Photo by Mark Lyndersay<br />
Every photographer on assignment for a<br />
magazine wants the cover. It’s prime space and<br />
usually pays the best, but a portrait session can<br />
go off the rails if there isn’t a good, balanced<br />
range of images for the publication’s designer<br />
to work with. That means putting effort into<br />
making every setup as compelling as possible,<br />
while thinking about how they play together to<br />
offer their own visual narrative in the final piece.<br />
Ideally, the photographs complement<br />
the words in a profile. Sometimes they tell a<br />
parallel but unrelated story. At worst, they exist in a different world from the<br />
words. The cover photo has work to do. It is a preview of the issue’s tone and<br />
content, a sales pitch to the potential reader, and an invitation to read the<br />
story it references.<br />
My first preference with a subject is almost always an environmental<br />
portrait. If it can happen effectively in the subject’s space, they begin with<br />
the advantage of home ground in the encounter. The Mungal Patasar session<br />
happened at his home. The musician lives in the countryside, and I imagined<br />
great possibilities. I photographed him in his<br />
living room with his family and, with time<br />
running out, in a nearby field seated with his<br />
sitar under a tree.<br />
But it was the portrait taken just a few<br />
inches from the front door of his home<br />
<strong>—</strong> a heavy, weathered slab of wood with<br />
just enough texture and muted tone to<br />
complement the musician and his well-used<br />
instrument <strong>—</strong> that ended up leading the issue.<br />
After some broad direction about posture,<br />
Mungal began to play. I wish I could say I<br />
was an appreciative audience, but I had one<br />
roll of 120 Fujichrome 50 allocated for this<br />
shot, twelve frames on the Hasselblad I was<br />
using, and I needed to bracket exposures.<br />
Mungal just played on, doing his work<br />
while I did mine, a portrait more passionately<br />
given than taken.<br />
47 • Carnival rainbow<br />
January/February 2001<br />
Photo by Sean Drakes<br />
48 • Water lily<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2001<br />
Photo by Sean Drakes<br />
49 • Bob Marley<br />
May/June 2001<br />
Photo by Adrian Boot<br />
50th issue<br />
July/August 2001<br />
Illustration by Russel Halfhide<br />
51 • Seashells<br />
September/October 2001<br />
Photo by Sean Drakes<br />
52 • Shake the maracas<br />
November/December 2001<br />
Illustration by Tonia St Cyr<br />
53 • Carnival time again<br />
January/February 2002<br />
Photo by Sean Drakes<br />
Our twenty-odd Carnival<br />
cover subjects have<br />
included sequined<br />
pretty mas, calypso and<br />
soca stars, traditional<br />
characters like the blue<br />
devil and Dame Lorraine.<br />
Mas is one of the hardest<br />
subjects to capture in a<br />
single image: it’s chaotic,<br />
it’s unpredictable, it moves<br />
too fast.<br />
50 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
54 • Writer Oonya<br />
Kempadoo<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2002<br />
Photo by Jim Rudin<br />
Over two and a half<br />
decades, we’ve profiled<br />
dozens of our region’s best<br />
writers <strong>—</strong> novelists, poets,<br />
dramatists, biographers.<br />
We’ve run in-depth features<br />
on Nobel laureates and<br />
talented up-and-comers.<br />
Our first story on Jamaican<br />
Marlon James ran in 2006,<br />
nine years before he won<br />
the Man Booker Prize;<br />
we profiled Trinidadian<br />
Vahni Capildeo, winner of<br />
the 2016 Forward Prize,<br />
back in 2004. But in twenty-five years, only one writer has<br />
appeared on the cover: Grenada-based Oonya Kempadoo,<br />
profiled in <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2002.<br />
Kempadoo had made an auspicious debut three years<br />
before, with her novel Buxton Spice, which set off a fabled<br />
“bidding war” among London publishers. Tide Running<br />
soon followed. And her third novel, All Decent Animals,<br />
was imminent, our 2002 article predicted. Except it was<br />
another decade before it actually appeared. Our readers<br />
got a preview in our May/June 2013 issue, when we<br />
published an excerpt from the long-awaited work.<br />
55 • Jamaican reggae musician<br />
Beres Hammond<br />
May/June 2002<br />
Photo by Tim Barrow<br />
57 • Pan passion<br />
September/October 2002<br />
Photo by Noel Norton<br />
56 • Enjoying the holidays<br />
on an Antiguan beach<br />
July/August 2002<br />
Photo by Sean Drakes<br />
58 • Danse La Helene<br />
November/December 2002<br />
Illustration by Martin Superville<br />
59 • Masquerader from<br />
Peter Minshall’s Picoplat<br />
January/February 2003<br />
Photo by Sean Drakes<br />
MARCH/APRIL 2003<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />
Free to BWIA<br />
passengers<br />
60 • Guyanese woodpecker<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2003<br />
Photo courtesy the Tourism and<br />
Hotel Association of Guyana<br />
MAY/JUNE 2003<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />
Free to BWIA<br />
passengers<br />
61 • Waiting at the crease<br />
May/June 2003<br />
Photo by Sean Drakes<br />
It’s one of the permanently contentious issues of public<br />
debate in the <strong>Caribbean</strong>: the state of West Indies cricket.<br />
Over the lifetime of <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong>, fans of the game have<br />
argued and agonised over the regional team, its players and<br />
administrators, and wondered if the West Indies will ever<br />
return to the form of its glory days in the 1970s and 80s.<br />
In our May/June 2003 issue, we took a stab at predicting<br />
what a future version of the West Indies team might look like.<br />
After talking to experts at the West Indies Cricket Board and<br />
regional cricket associations, we compiled our “next 11”: a<br />
lineup of exceptional young cricketers under seventeen years<br />
old, who seemed to have the talent and attitude.<br />
So how solid were our predictions? Of our eleven<br />
youngsters, one <strong>—</strong> Marcus Julien of Grenada <strong>—</strong> switched<br />
sports, to football. Most of the others went on to play for<br />
their national under-17 or under-19 teams. A handful <strong>—</strong><br />
including Kavesh Kantasingh of T&T and Javal Hodge of St Kitts and Nevis <strong>—</strong> have played<br />
for their national senior teams. And two have represented the West Indies at the highest<br />
levels of the game.<br />
Trinidadian batsman Jason Mohammed made his first-class debut for T&T against<br />
Jamaica in 2006. And in December 2011 he played his first One Day International match<br />
for the West Indies, versus India. He subsequently represented both T&T Red Steel and the<br />
Guyana Amazon Warriors in the <strong>Caribbean</strong> Premiere League T20 regional tournament.<br />
Meanwhile, Barbadian batsman Omar Phillips found himself batting for the West Indies<br />
in a 2009 Test match against Bangladesh. A contract strike by several members of the<br />
regional senior team saw seven young players selected for that Test series. Phillips came<br />
just six runs short of a debut century.<br />
52 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2003<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />
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passengers<br />
62 • Dancehall musicians Beenie<br />
Man, Bounty Killer, and Buju Banton<br />
July/August 2003<br />
Photo by Urbanimage.tv<br />
68 • JULY/AUGUST 2004<br />
JULY/AUGUST 2004<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />
68 • On the track to gold<br />
July/August 2004<br />
Photo by Marlon Rouse<br />
Free to BWIA<br />
passengers<br />
63 • Detail of Salybia, by<br />
Trinidadian artist Lisa O’Connor<br />
September/October 2003<br />
Photo by Mark Lyndersay<br />
69 • Special music issue<br />
September/October 2004<br />
Illustration by Russel Halfhide<br />
64 • Havana’s Calle San<br />
Ignacio<br />
November/December 2003<br />
Photo by Sean Drakes<br />
In perhaps the most<br />
ambitious feature<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> had yet<br />
published, we polled a<br />
panel of music experts<br />
and came up with a list of<br />
250 great songs from the<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>—</strong> most of them<br />
from the pre-digital era,<br />
as suggested by the vinyl<br />
record on the cover.<br />
65 • Peter Minshall’s<br />
Hummingbird<br />
January/February 2004<br />
Photo by Roy Boyke, courtesy<br />
the Callaloo Company<br />
72 • MARCH/APRIL 2005<br />
MARCH/APRIL 2005<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />
Free to BWIA<br />
passengers<br />
73 • MAY/JUNE 2005<br />
MAY/JUNE 2005<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />
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passengers<br />
74 • JULY/AUGUST 2005<br />
JULY/AUGUST 2005<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />
Free to BWIA<br />
passengers<br />
75 • SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2005<br />
75th ISSUESEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2005<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />
BROOKLYN<br />
Free to BWIA<br />
passengers<br />
72 • Remembering cartoonist<br />
DEW, 1935–2004<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2005<br />
Illustration by Dunstan E. Williams<br />
73 • St Lucia’s east coast<br />
May/June 2005<br />
Photo by Mike Toy<br />
74 • Indigenous Guyanese<br />
youngster<br />
July/August 2005<br />
Photo by Roberta Parkin<br />
75 • Brooklyn <strong>—</strong> the largest<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> city?<br />
September/October 2005<br />
Photo by Sol McCants<br />
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2006<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />
81 • SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2006<br />
Free to BWIA<br />
passengers<br />
80 • Gingerbread fretwork<br />
in Sint Maarten<br />
July/August 2006<br />
Photo by Donald Nausbaum<br />
81 • Celebrating Carifesta<br />
September/October 2006<br />
Illustration by Marlon Griffith<br />
82 • Farewell to BWIA<br />
November/December 2006<br />
Illustration by MEP<br />
83 • Welcome to <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines<br />
January/February 2007<br />
Illustration courtesy <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines<br />
54 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2005<br />
It’s one of the most iconic Carnival photos of all time,<br />
perfect for the cover of our issue profiling thirteen designers<br />
from the golden age of mas: Peter Minshall’s 1974 costume<br />
From the Land of the Hummingbird, portrayed by Sherry-Ann<br />
Guy and captured on film by the late Roy Boyke.<br />
The most celebrated and controversial masman in<br />
T&T Carnival from the time of his debut in the mid 1970s,<br />
Minshall himself had appeared on the cover of our third<br />
issue, back in 1992. On two other occasions, photos of his<br />
creations made striking cover subjects: our September/<br />
October 1998 issue featured a costume from his band Red,<br />
and a bird-garbed masquerader from Picoplat appeared on<br />
our January/February 2003 issue. <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong>’s most<br />
extensive take on Minshall’s career came in our May/June<br />
2006 issue, when a profile by editor Nicholas Laughlin was<br />
accompanied by personal accounts from some of the artist’s<br />
closest colleagues and observers.<br />
In an irony of timing, 2006 also turned out to be the final<br />
year in which Minshall produced a full-scale Carnival band.<br />
But a handful of smaller subsequent mas collaborations have<br />
continued to astound and provoke his audience. Witness<br />
the drag-ballerina Dying Swan costume he designed for the<br />
Carnival Kings and Queens competition in 2016, which set<br />
off a firestorm of debate unlike anything since <strong>—</strong> well, since<br />
the last Minshall controversy. Genius remains restless.<br />
66 • Brian Lara on the offensive<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2004<br />
Photo by Getty Images<br />
70 • The Love Circle<br />
November/December 2004<br />
Photo by Mark Lyndersay<br />
67 • Trinidadian rock band<br />
The Orange Sky<br />
May/June 2004<br />
Band photos by Alex Smailes<br />
71 • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2005<br />
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2005<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />
71 • Carnival imp<br />
January/February 2005<br />
Photo by Sean Drakes<br />
Free to BWIA<br />
passengers<br />
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2006<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />
MAY/JUNE 2006<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />
Free to BWIA<br />
passengers<br />
77 • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2006<br />
76 • NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2005<br />
Free to BWIA<br />
passengers<br />
Free to BWIA<br />
passengers<br />
76 • Holiday season in T&T<br />
November/December 2005<br />
Illustration by Shalini Seereeram<br />
77 • T&T music stars<br />
January/February 2006<br />
Image by Mark Lyndersay<br />
78 • St George’s, Grenada<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2006<br />
Photo by Modern Photo<br />
Studios<br />
79 • Heading to the FIFA<br />
World Cup<br />
May/June 2006<br />
Photo by Mark Lyndersay<br />
At midnight on 1 January,<br />
2007, BWIA <strong>—</strong> <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />
<strong>Beat</strong>’s airline partner for<br />
fifteen years <strong>—</strong> ceased<br />
to exist, and <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />
Airlines was born,<br />
welcomed by a cover<br />
featuring the colourful<br />
hummingbird from the<br />
new airline’s logo.<br />
MARCH/APRIL 2007<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong><strong>Beat</strong><br />
passengers<br />
Free to CARIBBEAN AIRLINES<br />
84 • Beach cricket<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2007<br />
Photo by Abigail Hadeed<br />
85 • Model Jaunel McKenzie<br />
at <strong>Caribbean</strong> Fashion Week<br />
May/June 2007<br />
Photo by Froylan Flowers<br />
86 • Kayaking on the Lucie<br />
River, Suriname<br />
July/August 2007<br />
Photo by Dean Van Ommeren<br />
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87 • Barbadian superstar<br />
Rihanna<br />
September/October 2007<br />
Photo courtesy Roberto D’Este<br />
“It always seemed glamorous,” said Rihanna early on in her<br />
career, “but it is real work.” Talent and luck have something<br />
to do with it, too. A nineteen-year-old relative newcomer<br />
when she appeared on the cover of the September/October<br />
2007 <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong>, the Barbadian singer-songwriter was<br />
then two years into a stellar international career. A decade<br />
later, she’s indisputably the top selling digital artist of all<br />
time, winner of eight Grammy Awards, among numerous<br />
other honours <strong>—</strong> also a fashion icon, movie star, named one<br />
of 2012’s “100 most influential people in the world” by Time<br />
magazine, and an astute businessperson: in 2015 she created<br />
her own label, Westbury Road Entertainment.<br />
“Whenever I get the chance, I fly home to Barbados,”<br />
Rihanna said, interviewed in <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> by writer Essiba<br />
Small. And her contributions to her home island go beyond<br />
the reflected blaze of her pop-star celebrity. In 2012, Rihanna<br />
made headlines when she donated US$1.75 million to the<br />
Queen Elizabeth Hospital in Barbados, in memory of her<br />
late grandmother <strong>—</strong> the namesake of Rihanna’s Clara Lionel<br />
Foundation, which she founded to “improve the quality of life<br />
for communities globally in the areas of health, education,<br />
arts, and culture.” An unapologetic force to reckon with, the<br />
first-ever recipient of the American Music Awards Icon Award<br />
is now working on her ninth studio album.<br />
88 • Trinidadian golfer<br />
Stephen Ames<br />
November/December 2007<br />
Photo by Robert Taylor<br />
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2008<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong><strong>Beat</strong><br />
Free to<br />
CARIBBEAN AIRLINES<br />
passengers<br />
93 • Classical Indian dancers<br />
September/October 2008<br />
Illustration by Shalini Seereeram<br />
98 • Fun at Trinidad’s<br />
Maracas Bay<br />
July/August 2009<br />
Photo by Andrea de Silva<br />
99 • Trio shaman in Suriname<br />
September/October 2009<br />
Photo by Andy Isaacson<br />
100th issue<br />
November/December 2009<br />
Cover design by Aisha Provoteaux<br />
101 • J’Ouvert devil<br />
January/February 2010<br />
Photo by Andrea de Silva<br />
105 • The New <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />
Cinema collective<br />
September/October 2010<br />
Photo courtesy Marlon James<br />
Four young filmmakers on<br />
the cover of our September/<br />
October 2010 issue led writer<br />
Jonathan Ali’s survey of<br />
contemporary <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />
cinema. Seven years later, he<br />
gives us a progress report:<br />
Back in 2010, three of the<br />
directors I highlighted<br />
had just made their debut<br />
features: Maria Govan (Rain)<br />
and Kareem Mortimer<br />
(Children of God) of the<br />
Bahamas, and Jamaica’s<br />
Storm Saulter (Better Mus’<br />
Come). As I write this, Govan’s<br />
second effort, Play the Devil,<br />
is winning plaudits on the<br />
festival circuit; Mortimer’s<br />
third film, Cargo, is about to<br />
premiere; and Saulter is in<br />
post-production on his follow<br />
up, Sprinter.<br />
Other talented filmmakers<br />
have joined in the act. The<br />
blessings of the digital<br />
revolution notwithstanding,<br />
making films in the <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />
remains a challenging<br />
business. The biggest<br />
challenge, however, still is<br />
winning over hearts and<br />
minds to the idea that there’s<br />
more to cinema than the<br />
Hollywood formula.<br />
56 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
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89 • Trinidadians 3Canal<br />
January/February 2008<br />
Photo by David Wears<br />
90 • T&T’s women’s boxing team<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2008<br />
Photo by Mariamma Kambon<br />
91 • Guyana’s Iwokrama<br />
Canopy Walkway<br />
May/June 2008<br />
Photo by Skye Hernandez<br />
92 • Jamaican sprinter Asafa<br />
Powell<br />
July/August 2008<br />
Photo by Michael Steele/Getty Images<br />
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2008<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong><strong>Beat</strong><br />
Free to<br />
CARIBBEAN AIRLINES<br />
passengers<br />
94 • The jewellery designs<br />
of Emmaloochie<br />
November/December 2008<br />
Photo courtesy Emmaloochie<br />
95 • Carnival devil in<br />
downtown Port of Spain<br />
January/February 2009<br />
Photo by Jeffrey Chock<br />
96 • Fast bowler<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2009<br />
Illustration by Nikolai Noel<br />
97 • Dominica river hike<br />
May/June 2009<br />
Photo by Sean Drakes<br />
102 • Trinidadian chef<br />
Ossie “Chinkey” Francis<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2010<br />
Photo by Andrea de Silva<br />
106 • Divali lights<br />
November/December 2010<br />
Photo by Mark Lyndersay<br />
103 • Trinidad and Tobago<br />
Fashion Week<br />
May/June 2010<br />
Photo by Sean Drakes<br />
INFLIGHT MAGAZINE<br />
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2011<br />
107 • Red Indian mas<br />
January/February 2011<br />
Photo by Edison Boodoosingh<br />
104 • Ziggy Marley<br />
July/August 2010<br />
Photo courtesy Wonder Knack<br />
Arguably the <strong>Caribbean</strong>’s<br />
most famous icon, Bob<br />
Marley was the cover<br />
subject of our May/June<br />
2001 issue, on the twentieth<br />
anniversary of his death.<br />
His legacy lives on through<br />
his music, familiar to fans<br />
around the world <strong>—</strong> and<br />
though his children and<br />
grandchildren, many of<br />
whom inherited Marley’s<br />
musical genes. Like firstborn<br />
son David “Ziggy”<br />
Marley, who appeared on<br />
the cover of our July/August 2010 issue.<br />
Last year, Ziggy released his fifteenth album. There<br />
are also rumours of new albums in the works from both<br />
Damien and his brother Julian. Meanwhile, the rest of the<br />
family is involved in various Marley-branded projects,<br />
from fashion to cooking, graphic design to electronics,<br />
and of course running the Bob Marley Museum in<br />
Kingston. There’s a line of Marley coffee <strong>—</strong> including<br />
beans grown in the Blue Mountains of Jamaica and<br />
the highlands of Ethiopia <strong>—</strong> and eco-friendly footwear.<br />
Whatever else you can say of the Marley family, they<br />
understand the value of their family legacy.<br />
WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 57
INFLIGHT MAGAZINE<br />
MAY/JUNE 2011<br />
JULY/AUGUST 2011<br />
MARCH/APRIL 2011<br />
108 • Trinidadian-Canadian chef<br />
Roger Mooking<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2011<br />
Photo by Geoff George<br />
109 • Tobago cocoa<br />
May/June 2011<br />
Photo by Alex Smailes<br />
INFLIGHT MAGAZINE<br />
INFLIGHT MAGAZINE<br />
110 • El Tucuche golden frog<br />
July/August 2011<br />
Photo by Pierson Hill<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong>’s special<br />
“Green Issue” featured<br />
a rare frog species on its<br />
cover <strong>—</strong> the only time an<br />
amphibian has served as<br />
cover model. Fauna cover<br />
subjects have also included<br />
one non-human mammal<br />
and four birds <strong>—</strong> can you<br />
spot them all?<br />
115 • Trinidadian Broadway star<br />
Heather Headley<br />
May/June 2012<br />
Photo courtesy Heather Headley<br />
116 • Grenadian Olympic<br />
champ Kirani James<br />
July/August 2012<br />
Photo by Michael Steele/Getty<br />
Images<br />
Heading into the 2012 Summer Olympics in London, the eyes<br />
of the world were on Usain Bolt <strong>—</strong> understandably, considering<br />
how the Jamaican sprinter had overwhelmed the competition<br />
in Beijing four years earlier. But astute observers <strong>—</strong> like writer<br />
Kwame Laurence, who wrote the cover story on <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />
Olympic prospects for our July/August 2012 issue <strong>—</strong> had their<br />
eyes on other contenders as well. Like Grenada’s Kirani James,<br />
then just nineteen years old, who a year before at the World<br />
Championships had become the youngest ever 400-metre gold<br />
medalist.<br />
“He has all the expectations of Grenada resting on his<br />
shoulders,” wrote Laurence. And on 6 August, 2012, those<br />
expectations were fulfilled: thanks to James, Grenada’s firstever<br />
Olympic medal was gold. Five of the eight lanes in the<br />
final were occupied by <strong>Caribbean</strong> athletes, plus all three<br />
spots on the medal podium <strong>—</strong> with Luguelín Santos of the<br />
Dominican Republic in second place and Lalonde Gordon of<br />
T&T in third.<br />
. . . All the expectations of Grenada resting on his<br />
shoulders<br />
119 • Steffano Marcano,<br />
Carnival blue devil<br />
January/February 2013<br />
Photo by Maria Nunes<br />
121 • Jamaica’s No-Maddz<br />
May/June 2013<br />
Photo by Marlon James<br />
James’s welcome back to Grenada <strong>—</strong> and his home village<br />
of Gouyave <strong>—</strong> was euphoric. And Grenadian readers of<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> were delighted the magazine had the foresight<br />
to put him on the cover. How did we make the call? “I think it<br />
was a mixture of reasons,” remembers Judy Raymond, then<br />
editor. “We wanted to use a photo of someone promising<br />
but not too familiar, and from somewhere that didn’t already<br />
have a great Olympic track record. And we had a good pic of<br />
him.” The confidence of writer Kwame Laurence <strong>—</strong> one of the<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong>’s most experienced sports journalists, specialising in<br />
track and field, and a longtime contributor to the magazine <strong>—</strong><br />
about James’s promise also helped.<br />
Four years later, at the 2016 Rio Olympics, James was a<br />
favourite to repeat his win. Only one athlete <strong>—</strong> American<br />
Michael Johnson <strong>—</strong> had ever managed to defend an Olympic<br />
gold in the men’s 400 metres, in 1996 and 2000. But the<br />
58 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2011<br />
INFLIGHT MAGAZINE<br />
111 • Trinidad-born singer<br />
Nicki Minaj<br />
September/October 2011<br />
Photo by D Project Records/<br />
Young Money Entertainment<br />
112 • Christmas dinner<br />
with T&T celebrities<br />
November/December 2011<br />
Photo by Andrea De Silva<br />
113 • Machel Montano<br />
costumed by Carnival band K2K<br />
January/February 2012<br />
Photo by Marlon Rouse<br />
114 • Trinidadian designer<br />
Anya Ayoung-Chee<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2012<br />
Photo by Wyatt Gallery<br />
achievement just barely escaped the Grenadian champion.<br />
James came second, to Wayde van Niekerk of South Africa<br />
<strong>—</strong> but still brought home Grenada’s second-ever Olympic<br />
medal, and singlehandedly gave his country the highest<br />
number of Olympic medals, per capita, at two successive<br />
Summer Games.<br />
117 • Detail of Disciple I, by<br />
Jamaican artist Ebony G. Patterson<br />
September/October 2012<br />
Image courtesy Ebony G. Patterson<br />
118 • Diwali parade in Guyana<br />
November/December 2012<br />
Photo by Michael Lam<br />
streeter lecka/getty<br />
120 • Barbadian surfer<br />
Chelsea Tuach<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2013<br />
Photo by Mark Harris<br />
Just seventeen when she<br />
appeared on the cover<br />
of the <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2013<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong>, slicing<br />
through a wave, Chelsea<br />
Tuach already had four<br />
years’ experience as a<br />
national and regional<br />
surfing champion. Starting<br />
at the age of ten, Tuach<br />
is the youngest surfer to<br />
represent Barbados in the<br />
watersport, and the most<br />
successful in competition.<br />
Ranked fourth in the world<br />
in 2015, she’s twice won the World Surf League (WSL)<br />
North American Junior Pro Championships.<br />
Tuach has flown the Barbadian flag in Australia, Brazil,<br />
El Salvador, Fiji, Mexico, Spain, France, and Japan. “I<br />
set goals, seize opportunities, and with a lot of faith<br />
and support, I’ve managed to do it,” she says. She’s had<br />
moments of self-doubt and at times intimidation, going<br />
up against older competitors. But nothing has stopped her<br />
burning spirit of determination, especially backed with<br />
resounding support from her island.<br />
WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 59
122 • Detail of Mokisi I, by<br />
Surinamese artist Marcel Pinas<br />
July/August 2013<br />
Photo by William Tsang, courtesy<br />
of Readytex Art Gallery<br />
123 • Lifeguard station on<br />
Miami Beach<br />
September/October 2013<br />
Photo by Fotomak/Shutterstock.com<br />
124 • Haitian-American<br />
football player Pierre Garçon<br />
November/December 2013<br />
Portrait by Jim Darling<br />
A sportsman in a football<br />
uniform <strong>—</strong> American<br />
football, not soccer <strong>—</strong><br />
must have surprised<br />
readers who don’t<br />
associate the game with<br />
the <strong>Caribbean</strong>. But there’s<br />
more than a handful of<br />
players with <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />
connections in the United<br />
States’ National Football<br />
League, as writer Debbie<br />
Jacob explained in<br />
the cover story of our<br />
November/December 2013 issue. She updates us on<br />
three of the players she profiled then:<br />
125 • Nathaniel Charleau<br />
portrays a Dame Lorraine<br />
January/February 2014<br />
Photo by Maria Nunes<br />
127 • Cave diving in Andros,<br />
the Bahamas<br />
May/June 2014<br />
Photo by Brian Kakuk<br />
128 • Jamaican surfer Icah Wilmot<br />
July/August 2014<br />
Photo by Marlon James<br />
126 • Jamaican singer<br />
Tessanne Chin<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2014<br />
Photo by Adrian Creary<br />
What’s the exemplary<br />
colour of the <strong>Caribbean</strong>?<br />
Many would say blue, in<br />
all its hues: the colour of<br />
the sea that surrounds our<br />
islands. There’s something<br />
about that tropical marine<br />
blue that lifts the spirits: no<br />
wonder blue waters have<br />
appeared on no fewer than<br />
seventeen of our covers<br />
over the years.<br />
129 • View of Petit Piton, St Lucia<br />
September/October 2014<br />
Photo by Danielle Devaux<br />
The old adage “you can’t judge a book by its cover”<br />
doesn’t apply to magazines. When “From island to end<br />
zone”, profiling NFL football players with <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />
roots, hit the Internet, <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong>’s website got<br />
thousands of hits in the first hour <strong>—</strong> enough to crash the<br />
site temporarily. The Washington Redskins and its star<br />
wide receiver Pierre Garçon had tweeted the story, and<br />
it was read by legions of fans. Garçon spoke about his<br />
Haitian roots and his continuous ties with the <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />
island <strong>—</strong> and his friendly smile lit up the cover photo.<br />
Garçon hasn’t skipped a beat since his <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong><br />
profile. He finished his five-year, US$45-million contract<br />
with the Redskins and became a free agent. At thirtyone,<br />
he showed no signs of slowing down. He’s been a<br />
consistent play-maker for the Redskins throughout all<br />
the team’s travails with its numerous quarterbacks. Then<br />
when Hurricane Matthew hit Haiti last year, Garçon’s<br />
team sent him to Haiti as an extension of his prolific<br />
community service work, and the NFL chose him to<br />
represent his team for the Walter Payton Man of the Year<br />
award, which pays homage to NFL players who engage in<br />
community service.<br />
Meanwhile, Jamaica-born Patrick Chung, also<br />
featured in the story, left the Philadelphia Eagles<br />
and returned to the New England Patriots to play for<br />
Bill Belichick, considered one of the most difficult<br />
and challenging coaches in the NFL. Chung soared,<br />
figuratively and literally, with high-flying tackles at the<br />
free safety position, which stunned opponents’ offenses.<br />
Belichick deemed Chung a crucial, versatile player who<br />
excelled at any defensive position where he was slotted.<br />
And Jamaica-born Trevardo Williams, a fourth-round<br />
draft pick and rookie for the Texas Texans, suffered<br />
an injury that prevented him from playing most of the<br />
season with the Texans. He made the rounds of the NFL,<br />
and landed eventually in the Canadian Football League<br />
(CFL), playing for the Toronto Argonauts.<br />
60 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
ADVERTORIAL<br />
Miami: what an experience!<br />
Go on a tour, taste exquisite dishes, relax, or<br />
work in the tropical beauty that is Miami.<br />
Begin the adventure by taking part in the Black/African Diaspora<br />
Heritage Tour in Little Havana. Tour guide Corinna Moebius does an<br />
excellent job of telling the story of Cuba. Your passionate and energetic<br />
tour starts on Calle Ocho (Eighth Street), where you’ll see the Little<br />
Havana Domino Park, where domino and chess matches take place throughout the day.<br />
Authentic hand-rolled Cuban cigars, jewellery, clothing, and art are also there.<br />
While touring Miami, visit the Black Police Precinct Courthouse and Museum. Hear<br />
the fascinating story of how five black men trained in secrecy and were sworn in as the<br />
City of Miami’s first black police officers in 1944.<br />
You’ll enjoy KROMA’s photo gallery and artists’ studios in Coconut Grove. KROMA<br />
Gallery is filled with striking paintings and other works of art.<br />
Visit the Lyric Theater the first Friday of every month for “Lyric Live”, an interactive<br />
talent showcase.<br />
Miami’s rich, diverse cultural mix is reflected in the city’s delicious cuisine. For a variety<br />
of <strong>Caribbean</strong> cuisine, you can dine at Ortanique on the Mile, and munch on Cuban<br />
fare at El Cristo. Indulge in seafood at Bubba Gump Shrimp Co., choose Zest Restaurant<br />
for global cuisine, or visit the Peacock Garden Café for a meal or snack.<br />
If you’ll be in Miami in October, take in the spectacular Miami Broward Carnival<br />
Parade and Concert. Each October, the sweet sound of calypso blares from the music<br />
trucks which parade in the Miami-Dade County Fairgrounds, followed by about fifty<br />
thousand revellers in colourful, seductive costumes. Drink and food stalls dot the fairgrounds,<br />
so you can keep your energy levels up all day and well into the night. As the<br />
sun sets, the crowd drifts towards the stage to hear the pulsating rhythms of <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />
artistes, who perform their newly released music and crowd favourites as well.<br />
Got a place to stay? Hampton Inn &<br />
Suites by Hilton Miami Brickell Downtown<br />
and The Courtyard Cadillac Miami<br />
Beach Oceanfront can accommodate<br />
you and make your stay unforgettable.<br />
www.gmcvb.com<br />
Hampton Inn & Suites Miami Brickell Downtown: www.hamptoninnmiamibrickell.com<br />
Brava by Brad Kilgore <strong>—</strong> The Arsht Centre: www.arshtcenter.org/Visit/BRAVAbyBradKilgore<br />
Bubba Gump Shrimp Co. at Bayside Marketplace: www.bubbagump.com/locations/miami<br />
Miami-Broward Carnival: www.miamibrowardcarnival.com<br />
Dolphin Mall: www.ShopDolphinMall.com<br />
The Courtyard CADILLAC Miami Beach Oceanfront: www.hotelcadillacmiamibeach.com<br />
Ortanique on the Mile: www.ortaniquerestaurants.com<br />
Black/African Diaspora Heritage Tour of Little Havana: www.littlehavanaguide.com<br />
Historic Black Police Precinct Courthouse and Museum: www.historicalblackprecinct.org<br />
Overtown/Lyric Theatre: www.bahlt.org<br />
Zest Restaurant: www. zestmiami.com<br />
KROMA Gallery: www.kromamiami.com<br />
Peacock Garden Café: www.jaguarhg.com/home-peacock<br />
A player engaged in a game of chess<br />
The annual Miami Broward Carnival is pure<br />
excitement<br />
Expressive artwork at KROMA Gallery
130 • Blue-and-yellow macaw<br />
November/December 2014<br />
Photo by Tracy Starr/Shutterstock.<br />
com<br />
131 • Soca star Bunji Garlin<br />
January/February 2015<br />
Photo by Jonathan Mannion<br />
132 • Guyana’s Kaieteur Falls<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2015<br />
Photo by Pete Oxford<br />
133 • On the coast of St John,<br />
US Virgin Islands<br />
May/June 2015<br />
Photo by cdwheatley/istock.com<br />
136 • Street musician, Havana<br />
November/December 2015<br />
Photo by Atlantide Phototravel/<br />
Corbis<br />
A Cuban street musician <strong>—</strong> performing a trumpet solo,<br />
snazzily attired in brown suit and two-tone shoes <strong>—</strong> was<br />
the cover subject of our November/December 2015 issue.<br />
It was a favourite of Dionne Ligoure, head of corporate<br />
communications for <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines, and a longtime<br />
reader of the magazine. In fact, Ligoure keeps a copy of this<br />
cover on display in her office at the airline’s headquarters.<br />
“Cuba, for me, represents a part of the <strong>Caribbean</strong> that<br />
remains unspoilt,” Ligoure explains. “That photo transports<br />
you to another place and time. It does what music does:<br />
takes you on an imaginative journey. You can’t hear<br />
what the musician in the photo is playing, but you feel<br />
something.”<br />
And what does <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> mean to her, and the<br />
airline? I’m tremendously proud of the magazine,” Ligoure<br />
says. “For the past twenty-five years, <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> has<br />
featured, documented, archived, and highlighted the<br />
accomplishments of <strong>Caribbean</strong> icons throughout the region<br />
and our diaspora.<br />
“<strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines is an authentic <strong>Caribbean</strong> brand.<br />
And <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> is exactly that. It’s a natural, harmonious<br />
alliance. These two authentic elements are fused to<br />
represent the uniqueness of the <strong>Caribbean</strong>, in our ability to<br />
connect people. There’s a consistency and authenticity to<br />
that partnership.”<br />
137 • Carnival blooming<br />
January/February 2016<br />
Photo by Dwayne Watkins<br />
140 • Jamaican sprint legend<br />
Usain Bolt<br />
July/August 2016<br />
Photo by Alexander Hassenstein/<br />
Getty Images<br />
139 • Jaguar<br />
May/June 2016<br />
Photo by Pete Oxford<br />
This pensive jaguar <strong>—</strong> one of South America’s most<br />
magnificent wild creatures <strong>—</strong> made an apt cover for our<br />
May/June 2016 issue, which commemorated Guyana’s<br />
fiftieth anniversary of Independence. Pete Oxford, worldrenowned<br />
wildlife photographer, remembers how he<br />
captured the image. “We were on a boat drifting down the<br />
river, when we spotted this top predator relaxing on the<br />
river bank under the thick jungle canopy. It was obvious that<br />
the animal had had no negative interaction with humans,<br />
as it was totally unafraid and allowed us to come extremely<br />
close. It was both a thrilling and a humbling experience.”<br />
62 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
The brilliant orange paint and traditional design of this<br />
Barbadian chattel house door made an eye-catching cover<br />
for our September/October 2015 issue. It also made for a<br />
heart-warming experience for photographer Corrie Scott:<br />
134 • Coral splendour<br />
July/August 2015<br />
Photo by Rainer von Brandis/<br />
istock.com<br />
138 • Snorkelling in the Bahamas<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2016<br />
Photo by Stephen Frink/Corbis<br />
135 • Chattel house, Barbados<br />
September/October 2015<br />
Photo by Corrie Scott<br />
This freshly painted chattel door caught my eye as I was<br />
driving past, and I just had to stop and capture it. We have<br />
a history of finely crafted chattel houses in Barbados. More<br />
recently we started using bright colours rather than the<br />
traditional brown of past times <strong>—</strong> orange and green being a<br />
popular colour combination in Bim.<br />
Imagine my delight when my chattel house door ended<br />
up on the cover! On receiving the magazine, I<br />
kept it for a few days, then decided the people<br />
who live in the house should have it. Having never<br />
met them, I drove over and knocked. Lisa came<br />
to the door. And her mum. And her son. They<br />
were all delighted. I had already planned to “pay<br />
it forward,” so gave Lisa a percentage of what I<br />
earned for this photograph. Lisa emotionally told<br />
me that the money had come at just the right time.<br />
She hugged me. Gran hugged me, and Son told me<br />
I had to hug him too. So, hugs all round, all of us<br />
crying and laughing. I have now met three more<br />
wonderful Bajans in my island. Feels good. Feels<br />
right.<br />
Sometimes it’s tough<br />
deciding among the options<br />
for a cover subject <strong>—</strong> and<br />
sometimes there’s no contest.<br />
That was exactly the case<br />
with our July/August issue<br />
last year, timed with the 2016<br />
Summer Olympics in Rio de<br />
Janeiro. “No contest” also<br />
describes how some of the<br />
world’s best sprinters must<br />
have felt, knowing they were<br />
up against Usain Bolt in the<br />
men’s 100- and 200-metre<br />
events.<br />
Born in rural Trelawny<br />
Parish, Jamaica, in 1986, Bolt<br />
is the fastest human being on<br />
record, and considered the<br />
greatest sprinter of all time.<br />
Where track and field are<br />
concerned, the past decade<br />
has indisputably been the<br />
Age of Bolt, and it’s hard to<br />
imagine another athlete so<br />
dominating the sport in the<br />
near future.<br />
Few people could have<br />
predicted this unprecedented<br />
victory streak back in 2004,<br />
when Bolt <strong>—</strong> then just shy<br />
of his eighteenth birthday<br />
<strong>—</strong> appeared in the pages of<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> for the first<br />
time. But it was already<br />
clear he was a major talent<br />
<strong>—</strong> writer Kwame Laurence<br />
called him one of the fastest<br />
men alive, previewing the<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong>’s medal hopefuls<br />
in the Athens Olympics.<br />
Slowed by a leg injury, Bolt<br />
didn’t make it past the first<br />
round of heats. But he was<br />
just getting started.<br />
Four years later, this<br />
time previewing the 2008<br />
Olympics in Beijing,<br />
Laurence used the adjective<br />
“phenomenal” three times,<br />
describing Bolt’s medal<br />
prospects. “Forgive the<br />
repetition,” he wrote. But<br />
it was an apt prediction.<br />
Not only did the twentyone-year-old<br />
win both the<br />
100- and 200-metre races,<br />
setting new world records<br />
in both <strong>—</strong> a feat never<br />
before accomplished at the<br />
Olympics <strong>—</strong> but he did it<br />
with an almost inhuman<br />
nonchalance. (His third gold<br />
medal from Beijing, in the<br />
4x100-metre relay, was sadly<br />
revoked earlier this year,<br />
when one of his teammates<br />
was retroactively disqualified<br />
for doping.)<br />
Heading to the 2012<br />
London Olympics, Bolt was<br />
a clear favourite <strong>—</strong> both<br />
with the crowds, who loved<br />
his high-spirited antics,<br />
and to repeat his wins.<br />
He didn’t disappoint. For<br />
Jamaicans, the timing<br />
of the achievement was<br />
especially significant,<br />
coming in the very month<br />
when the nation celebrated<br />
its fiftieth anniversary of<br />
Independence. “I’m now<br />
a legend,” Bolt remarked,<br />
matter-of-factly.<br />
But the truly legendary<br />
feat was in Rio in August<br />
2016. “This will surely be his<br />
last Olympic Games,” wrote<br />
Kwame Laurence, “and he’ll<br />
do everything in his power<br />
to ensure a golden farewell.”<br />
No athlete had ever won the<br />
100-metre event at three<br />
consecutive Olympics, nor<br />
the 200 metres. To win them<br />
both <strong>—</strong> a “triple double”<br />
<strong>—</strong> would once have been<br />
unthinkable. But not, as it<br />
turned out, for Usain Bolt.<br />
WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 63
141 • Antiguan kiteboarding<br />
pioneer Andre Phillip<br />
September/October 2016<br />
Photo by Roddy Grimes-Graeme<br />
January/February <strong>2017</strong><br />
FREE<br />
take-home copy<br />
143 • Young fancy sailor<br />
January/February <strong>2017</strong><br />
Photo by Abigail Hadeed<br />
November/December 2016<br />
FREE<br />
take-home copy<br />
142 • Calypso Rose<br />
November/December 2016<br />
Photo by Richard Holder,<br />
courtesy Stonetree Records<br />
Our oldest cover subject in twenty-five years? That<br />
would be Linda McArtha Sandy-Lewis, the indefatigable<br />
Calypso Rose, who was seventy-six when she fronted our<br />
November/December issue last year. And in this case,<br />
age isn’t just a number, or a bit of trivia <strong>—</strong> it’s evidence<br />
of the longevity of one of the most extraordinary careers<br />
in <strong>Caribbean</strong> music, dating back to the 1950s. When the<br />
Tobago-born calypsonian started her career as a teenager,<br />
calypso was still a macho genre. That she ascended to the<br />
heights of the artform is tribute to her skill as a singer and<br />
composer, her warmth and sincerity on stage, her wicked<br />
lyrics and playful performance style. Audiences adored her,<br />
but it wasn’t until 1978 <strong>—</strong> more than two decades into her<br />
career <strong>—</strong> that she won calypso’s highest honour. They had<br />
to literally rename the Calypso King title for her sake.<br />
The same energy, talent, and dedication that earned her<br />
that groundbreaking accolade are also responsible for the<br />
remarkable resurgence in popularity Rose has experienced<br />
in her eighth decade. Her latest album, Far from Home,<br />
was a surprise hit of summer 2016 in Europe, winning her<br />
thousands of new fans and a growing number of international<br />
awards, as she keeps to a touring schedule many younger<br />
musicians would envy. And her tune “Leave Me Alone” <strong>—</strong><br />
featuring a guest appearance by Machel Montano <strong>—</strong> was yet<br />
another hit on the road at Carnival <strong>2017</strong>.<br />
The credits<br />
Jeremy Taylor, editor, publisher, consulting<br />
editor, 1992–2012 • Joanne Mendes, sales and<br />
admin, 1992–present • Russell Halfhide, designer,<br />
1992–2007 • Geraldine Flower, sales, 1992–2011<br />
• Simone Aché, sales, 1994–1998 • Reneé West,<br />
sales, 1994–1999 • Brendan de Caires, assistant<br />
editor, 1994–1998 • Kevon Webster, design and<br />
layout, 1995–present • Skye Hernandez, assistant<br />
editor and managing editor, 1997–2000 • Beverly<br />
Renwick, sales, 1997–2000 • Hazel Mansing, admin,<br />
1998–present • Donna Benny, managing editor,<br />
2000–2003 • Brigitte Bento-Espinet, assistant<br />
editor, 2000 • Stacy Lalbeharry, editorial assistant,<br />
2000–2005 • Helen Shair-Singh, sales, 2000–2012<br />
• Denise Chin, sales, 2001–2013, 2015–present •<br />
Tracy-Ann Gill, editorial assistant, 2001–2003 •<br />
Dylan Kerrigan, staff writer, 2002–2005 • Nicholas<br />
Laughlin, editor, 2003–2006, 2012–present • Tracy<br />
Assing, assistant editor, 2005–2008 • Sabrina<br />
Vailloo, editorial assistant, 2005–2007 • Laura<br />
Dowrich, assistant editor, 2006–2009 • Mirissa<br />
De Four, editorial assistant, 2006–2011 • Caroline<br />
Taylor, online editor, 2007–present • Judy Raymond,<br />
editor, 2007–2012 • Jacqui Smith, production,<br />
2008–present • Aisha Provoteaux, design and<br />
layout, 2009–2010 • Samantha Rochard, sales,<br />
2009 • Halcyon Salazar, general manager, 2011–<br />
present • Bridget van Dongen, design and layout,<br />
2011–present • Marissa Rodriguez, admin assistant,<br />
2012–2014 • Yuri Chin Choy, sales, 2012–present •<br />
Desiree Seebaran, assistant editor, 2013 • Karen<br />
Washington, sales, 2013–2015 • Cindy Lavia,<br />
editorial intern, 2014–2016 • Shelly-Ann Inniss,<br />
intern and editorial assistant, 2014–present<br />
A quarter-century’s worth of reading<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> has always been free for <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines (and, before<br />
that, BWIA) passengers to take home <strong>—</strong> and many of you have done just<br />
that, collecting each issue as it appears on planes. A full set of all 144<br />
magazines published to date takes up about two and a half feet of shelf<br />
space (and weighs almost a hundred pounds <strong>—</strong> yes, we checked). Readers<br />
hold on to them because many of the articles, profiles, and interviews are<br />
worth revisiting, even decades later. Researchers make reference to the<br />
magazine and teachers use it in classrooms.<br />
But if you haven’t been a <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> reader and collector since 1992<br />
<strong>—</strong> or if you don’t have two and a half feet of shelf space to spare <strong>—</strong> you<br />
can still access our rather vast archive via our website. The magazine first<br />
went online circa 1998. Back then, in the days when no one knew as yet<br />
what the World Wide Web would turn out to be, only a handful of articles<br />
from each issue were posted online, and some HTML hand-coding was<br />
involved. It’s a lot simpler these days. Not only can you read the full contents<br />
of each new issue online, you can also search all the way back to issue<br />
number one in a matter of seconds <strong>—</strong> if, say, your heart is set on finding<br />
every single reference to Machel Montano we’ve ever published.<br />
Now, the archive is a work in progress <strong>—</strong> we’re still digitising some of<br />
the earlier issues. Even so, there are close to 2,500 articles already available,<br />
which makes the <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> website one of the most extensive free<br />
online archives of <strong>Caribbean</strong> culture. Even for our editorial staff, exploring<br />
this archive is always an adventure of discovery and re-discovery.<br />
Find it all at caribbean-beat.com.<br />
64 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
•<br />
•<br />
•<br />
•<br />
•<br />
•<br />
•
AdvertoriAl<br />
The Bahamas<br />
Festival time in The<br />
Written by Elaine Monica Davis<br />
Bahamas!<br />
Y<br />
ou’ve heard the saying: “It’s<br />
festival time again!” Yes, it’s<br />
a very common expression,<br />
as the <strong>Caribbean</strong> is replete<br />
with festivals of one kind or another <strong>—</strong><br />
celebrating food, drink, culture, dance,<br />
and the list continues. But while festivals<br />
and Carnivals indeed dominate the<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> landscape every month of<br />
the year, the islands of The Bahamas<br />
alone have a smorgasbord of activities,<br />
The islands of The Bahamas have a smorgasbord<br />
of activities, every single beautiful, sun-splashed<br />
month of the calendar year<br />
every single beautiful, sun-splashed<br />
month of the calendar year. But more on<br />
that in another issue!<br />
Right now, looming on our spectacularly<br />
beautiful Bahamian horizon is<br />
Bahamas Junkanoo Carnival <strong>2017</strong>! Yes,<br />
BJC <strong>2017</strong> is almost here. But keep calm<br />
and prepare to travel to The Bahamas<br />
<strong>—</strong> you still have time to be a part of this<br />
absolutely unique, unifying, and ultraspecial<br />
experience that only happens in<br />
The Bahamas.<br />
<strong>April</strong> 28 and 29 will be here before<br />
we know it, and people from all over<br />
the world are looking forward to the<br />
amazing time they will have in Grand<br />
Bahama, with the Carnival Kick Off<br />
scheduled for Taino Beach, Freeport.<br />
Local musical giants like Music Masters<br />
2016 winner Fanshawn Taylor, 2015<br />
winner Sammie Starr, together with Lady<br />
“E” and a host of other mega-talented<br />
Bahamian contenders, will again showcase<br />
their creative, lyrical, and performing<br />
talent to the world.<br />
Who will emerge victorious in the<br />
semi-final competition on the night of<br />
29 <strong>April</strong>? Who will go on to magical<br />
mastery the following week in Nassau,<br />
during the BJC extravaganza from 4 to 6<br />
May? Taino Beach and Da Cultural Village<br />
will host artistic history once again<br />
and lift the eager and excited patrons to<br />
heights as never before.<br />
You cannot afford to miss the op-<br />
portunity to be a part of this stunningly<br />
exhilarating array of cultural creativity,<br />
fabulous food, and romantic relaxation<br />
<strong>—</strong> and be in The Bahamas at the same<br />
time.<br />
So what are you waiting for?<br />
Get online:<br />
bahamasjunkanoocarnival.com<br />
or bahamas.com.<br />
In the <strong>Caribbean</strong>, we fly on <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />
Airlines, direct from Port of Spain,<br />
Trinidad to Lynden Pindling International<br />
Airport, Nassau, on Sundays, Tuesdays,<br />
and Fridays. See you in The Bahamas!<br />
WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 107
ARRIVE<br />
nikhil ramkarran<br />
68 Offtrack<br />
Pakaraima bound<br />
78 Neighbourhood<br />
Bequia, Port Elizabeth<br />
80 Layover<br />
Bridgetown, Barbados<br />
Heading into Guyana’s Pakaraima Mountains<br />
WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 67
Offtrack<br />
Pakaraima<br />
bound<br />
Near Guyana’s border with Venezuela and Brazil, the<br />
Pakaraimas are a spectacular landscape of soaring<br />
tepui mountains and remote valleys. Few outsiders<br />
come here <strong>—</strong> except once a year, during the<br />
Eastertime Pakaraima Mountain Safari. Neil Marks<br />
has been there, done the adventure <strong>—</strong> and can tell<br />
you what to expect<br />
68 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
Rough dirt roads cross the sparsely<br />
populated landscape of the Pakaraimas<br />
nikhil ramkarran<br />
WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 69
You don’t have to be a topographer to figure out that Guyana is<br />
unapologetically part of Amazonia. But, just in case you want<br />
to be stubborn and argue beyond impenetrable rainforests,<br />
jaguars, black caimans, and anacondas, the Pakaraima<br />
Mountains will answer any lingering doubts. (For the sake of<br />
free movement of people, trade, dancehall, and soca, however,<br />
we’ll keep our <strong>Caribbean</strong> identity too.)<br />
You may not have heard of the Pakaraimas before <strong>—</strong> but perhaps you’ve<br />
heard of Roraima? Functioning as a triple border between Guyana, Venezuela,<br />
and Brazil, Mount Roraima, with a peak elevation of just over 9,200 feet, sticks<br />
out as the tallest in the family of table-top mountains of the western Guyana<br />
highlands known as the Pakaraimas. These mountains stretch some 250 miles<br />
across, measuring east to west, and the rivers that originate here plunge off<br />
immense cliffs to form some of the most spectacular waterfalls anywhere <strong>—</strong><br />
including the famed Kaieteur, measuring 741 feet from top to bottom, among<br />
the world’s tallest single-drop waterfalls.<br />
Exploring the Pakaraimas offers the allure of unknown terrain, unfamiliar<br />
indigenous Amerindian culture, and the exhilarating feeling that comes with<br />
knowing that just under your feet are rocks hiding deposits of gold, diamonds,<br />
jasper, and other precious minerals. But it takes some amount of <strong>—</strong> well,<br />
balls, to attempt a journey across the tepui plateaus: one literal translation of<br />
Pakaraimas, a Patamona name, is “giant testicles.”<br />
These mountains were formed many millions of years<br />
ago, and are now mostly inhabited by the Patamona, one<br />
of Guyana’s nine remaining Amerindian nations. The name<br />
Patamona itself means “People of the Heavens” <strong>—</strong> and if you<br />
bother to check the elevation and temperature of some of the<br />
villages scattered among these mountains, you’d have to agree.<br />
At night, I swear it feels like below zero in some places. But for<br />
Guyanese, measuring in degrees Celsius or Fahrenheit is just<br />
not done. It’s either “hot” or “cold,” and in the case of some of<br />
these villages, very cold. Once you take up a sleeping position,<br />
you beg your body to stay in place without moving, for fear that<br />
thousands of needle-size icicles will pierce through your skin.<br />
So travelling across the Pakaraimas is no easy feat, but<br />
the annual safari organised around Easter by Rainforest Tours in Georgetown<br />
offers a planned route and instructions on how to survive and enjoy what tour<br />
leader Frank Singh calls “an adventure of a lifetime.” The safari had its genesis<br />
at the turn of the last century, when the Patamona decided to cut roads to<br />
criss-cross their mountains and valleys. Of course, their intention was not to<br />
have curious visitors passing through their villages, but rather to find a way to<br />
trade their farm produce.<br />
The mountains offer fertile ground for agriculture, and the temperatures<br />
lend to the farming of crops that can’t grow on Guyana’s coastland. For<br />
example, a great potato and onion experiment was undertaken a few decades<br />
back, but most of it went to waste because of inadequate infrastructure to<br />
transport it to market in Georgetown. So, using manual labour, the Patamona<br />
created roads to connect villages stretching across two of Guyana’s interior<br />
regions, Eight and Nine, and for the most part made it easier for vehicles other<br />
than tractors and All Terrain Vehicles (ATVs) to traverse the territory.<br />
The first Pakaraima safari was undertaken in 2003, with just about<br />
four vehicles of government officials eyeing the opening of the otherwise<br />
landlocked Pakaraimas. Soon, the safari grew in scale, and it’s now an annual<br />
feature of Guyana’s tourism calendar. These days, the convoy is made up of<br />
about twenty vehicles, including participation by overseas enthusiasts craving<br />
an adventure off the beaten track and an immersion into the customs of the<br />
indigenous Amerindians.<br />
Exploring the<br />
Pakaraimas<br />
offers the allure<br />
of unknown<br />
terrain<br />
70 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
The Pakaraima safari route cuts through<br />
both dense forest and open savannah<br />
nikhil ramkarran<br />
WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 71
nikhil ramkarran<br />
Day One: The first day of the safari opens at a fuel station<br />
in the heart of Georgetown, just an hour after midnight <strong>—</strong><br />
the beginning of a gruelling leg of 350 miles. That includes a<br />
two-hour drive on paved roads and then a long, bumpy ride<br />
on laterite dirt roads through the rainforest. But thoughts of<br />
discomfort quickly fade, as you keep watch for wild animals,<br />
such as deer, scampering across the road.<br />
Bathrooms aren’t readily available, so any relief breaks have<br />
to be taken in the forest. And, of course, the forest has snakes. If<br />
that creeps you out, better hold it in until you reach the morning<br />
pit stop, where you can also have a hot breakfast at a little<br />
restaurant built around a timber operation.<br />
The convoy makes an Essequibo River landing at dawn,<br />
in time for the first ferry crossing. The actual ride across the<br />
river takes about fifteen minutes, and then you’re on your way<br />
through the million-hectare Iwokrama protected rainforest,<br />
home to some of the largest animals in South America <strong>—</strong> the<br />
jaguar and the harpy eagle. Jaguars are sometimes spotted<br />
strolling along the same road you’re driving on. Get your camera<br />
out, just in case.<br />
About four hours into daylight, you’ll reach the Oasis, a<br />
roadside lodge for travellers like you passing through the<br />
sprawling open savannahs. Next comes a four-hour stretch<br />
navigating a dirt path to Karasabai, the village where the actual<br />
safari begins. By then, you’ll be beyond tired <strong>—</strong> so set up camp<br />
early, cook, eat, and hit the sack. Camping space is usually on<br />
the grounds of government buildings such as the health centre or<br />
school. You also refuel before it gets dark, and you’re off to sleep.<br />
72 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
The journey<br />
Georgetown to Karasabai:<br />
350 miles<br />
. . . to Tiperu: 21 miles<br />
. . . to Rukumoto: 12 miles<br />
. . . to Morabaiko: 12 miles<br />
. . . to Yurong Paru: 18 miles<br />
. . . to Monkey Mountain: 18 miles<br />
. . . to Tuseneng: 15 miles<br />
. . . to Paramakatoi: 15 miles<br />
. . . to Kato: 11 miles<br />
. . . to Kurukubaru: 12 miles<br />
. . . to Ithabac: 27 miles<br />
. . . to Orinduik Falls: 18 miles<br />
Essequibo River<br />
Guyana<br />
Orinduik<br />
Kurukubaru<br />
Paramakatoi<br />
Kato<br />
Monkey Mountain<br />
Tuseneng<br />
Morabaiko<br />
Yurong Paru<br />
Rukumoto<br />
Teperu<br />
From Georgetown<br />
BRAZIL<br />
Karasabai<br />
What you need<br />
• four-wheel drive vehicle in good condition, preferably<br />
with winch and spare all-terrain tyres<br />
• patching equipment, tow rope, and tool kit<br />
• gasolene or diesel containers, preferably five-gallon size<br />
• fuel hose<br />
• fire extinguisher<br />
• tent or hammock for camping<br />
• battery-powered light<br />
• outdoor gas stove and fuel<br />
• cooking utensils<br />
• food supplies and bottled water<br />
• cutlass, file, and shovel<br />
• first aid kit<br />
Day Two: You wake up in the quiet village of Karasabai,<br />
named for a rock resembling a treasure chest. The story says<br />
the chest was magically transformed into stone by Macunaima,<br />
a legendary being of the Amerindians. Once you set off, about<br />
fifteen minutes outside Karasabai, you spot Beena Mountain,<br />
where you can find almost all of the herbs used by village elders<br />
in the initiation rites <strong>—</strong> the indigenous education system <strong>—</strong> to<br />
prepare a boy to take on life in the jungle. If you want to explore<br />
the mountain yourself, please ask the local village leaders, as it<br />
is taboo to visit on your own.<br />
Travelling across mostly open savannah, you reach the<br />
villages of Teperu and Rukumoto. Rukumoto literally means<br />
“the place of Ruku” <strong>—</strong> a multicoloured caterpillar, considered<br />
a delicacy in these parts. It has a nutty taste once boiled or<br />
smoked. They come out during the May/June rains, so you may<br />
not see any during the safari, but you can ask locals if they have<br />
any left over from last year. In the afternoon, you arrive at the<br />
village of Morabaiko, to spend the night.<br />
WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 73
Day Three: Departing Morabaiko, you emerge to incredible<br />
mountain vistas, as you enter the villages of Yurong Paru, and<br />
then cross the Echillibar River to get to Monkey Mountain, one<br />
of the larger Pakaraima communities <strong>—</strong> named for the seasonal<br />
migration of monkeys from the northwest to the Kanuku<br />
Mountains to the south.<br />
The people of Monkey Mountain are multilingual <strong>—</strong> they<br />
speak Patamona, Macushi, and Portuguese, as well as English.<br />
A nearby waterfall allows you to cool off after the hot and dusty<br />
drive. Locals search for the precious minerals found in the area<br />
and use them to trade for fish and meat with Brazilians in nearby<br />
border villages such as Mutum.<br />
East of Monkey Mountain is Taruka, a relatively new village,<br />
originally formed by Brazilian Amerindians fleeing harsh<br />
conditions in their country. During the great Rupununi uprising<br />
of the late 1960s, most of the villagers returned to Brazil.<br />
Day Four: Leaving Monkey Mountain, you come to rustcoloured<br />
Tuseneng, founded by Archibald Scipio, the son of<br />
an itinerant black balata bleeder and an Amerindian woman.<br />
Because of Scipio’s appearance, he wasn’t readily accepted<br />
by his community <strong>—</strong> so he moved to the area that is now<br />
Tuseneng. Gradually, others joined him and formed the village.<br />
Having been adopted by his mother’s side of the family, Scipio<br />
went through the full crucible of training for Amerindian boys.<br />
Eventually he became a piai man, or local doctor.<br />
Passing the Kawa River (which is dry most of the time, but<br />
can rise to chest-deep in the rainy season), you reach Bamboo<br />
Creek for a brief stop, and then arrive at Paramakatoi. At an<br />
elevation of 2,500 feet, PK <strong>—</strong> as it’s called for short <strong>—</strong> is named<br />
for a wild guava found in the area. Branches from the trees are<br />
used to make arrows. If you want a bit of historical intrigue, ask<br />
the villagers for Macaw Cave, where you can see an urn with<br />
ancestral skeletal remains.<br />
From PK, the safari leads straight to Kato. With its setting<br />
like a natural postcard, Kato was the location of that experiment<br />
in growing potatoes and onions. The waterfalls nearby are<br />
earmarked for a future hydro-power project that will give<br />
electricity to the village.<br />
michael lam<br />
74 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
Chiung Falls near the village of Kato<br />
WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 75
nikhil ramkarran<br />
Day Five: After overnighting at Kato, you depart for<br />
Kurukubaru <strong>—</strong> thought to be the most elevated village in<br />
Guyana. So you’ll understand why it has the nickname “Cold,<br />
Cold Baru.” As in all indigenous villages, be mindful of local<br />
customs. On my first visit, many years ago, when I took out my<br />
digital camera, the older folks literal ran. Best to ask permission<br />
for anything you want to do.<br />
The people of Kurukubaru, as across the Pakaraimas, are<br />
charming and shy. Ask a question and they may bow their heads,<br />
giggling. But when you walk off, you may hear them whispering<br />
in the Patamona tongue.<br />
Past Kurukubaru, you’ll come to Kamana village,<br />
and if you have the time and are a history buff, you’ll<br />
want to ask about the trail where you can find battle<br />
implements (such as clubs with spikes) and skeletal<br />
remains, testifying to tribal wars of long ago. There<br />
are also rock formations that are said to represent the<br />
victories of various tribes.<br />
Finally, from Kamana you travel to the last stop:<br />
Orinduik Falls on the Ireng River, which forms the<br />
border here between Guyana and Brazil. The falls<br />
are named after a water weed which <strong>—</strong> if uprooted,<br />
dried, burned, and mixed with honey <strong>—</strong> forms a sort of<br />
chewing gum that’s prized for its euphoric properties.<br />
So I’m told <strong>—</strong> I’ve never tried it myself.<br />
You’d be crazy not to indulge in a refreshing bath<br />
at the falls <strong>—</strong> where the river flows over outcrops of<br />
jasper <strong>—</strong> before heading to the small airstrip to catch your flight<br />
back to Georgetown. Unless you’re heading back out overland,<br />
as you came. With just brief stops along the way, the return drive<br />
takes three days to get back to Georgetown. However you end<br />
your safari, before you leave, consider leaving a gift for your<br />
Patamona hosts <strong>—</strong> to reciprocate their kind hospitality. n<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines operates regular flights to Cheddi<br />
Jagan International Airport in Georgetown from<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> and North American destinations<br />
miles of unspoilt rainforest | kayaking, paddling, canoeing | horseback riding | safari<br />
wildlife watching | birdwatching | sports fishing | community tourism | trekking<br />
3 Rupununi Music & Arts Festival, Georgetown<br />
12 Phagwah Festival, National Stadium<br />
12 Phagwah Celebration, National Holiday Country<br />
19 Horse Racing, Kennard Memorial Turf<br />
24 Linden Expo & Trade Fair, Linden<br />
24 Wedding Expo <strong>2017</strong>, Georgetown<br />
25 ‘Clash of the Titans’ Show, National Stadium<br />
7 Easter Seawall Art Festival, Georgetown<br />
9 Pakaraima Mountain Safari, Pakaraima Mt.<br />
14 Region 5 Expo & Trade Fair, Berbice<br />
15 Bartica Easter Regatta, Bartica<br />
15 Rupununi Rodeo, Lethem<br />
17 Easter Monday, Countrywide<br />
28 Guyana Restaurant Week, Georgetown<br />
76 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
NEIGHBOURHOOD<br />
wilfred dederer<br />
Port Elizabeth,<br />
Bequia<br />
More village than town, the capital of<br />
Bequia <strong>—</strong> second-largest of the Grenadine<br />
Islands <strong>—</strong> is a haven for both yachties,<br />
beach-lovers, and artists alike<br />
Streetscape<br />
For many visitors, Bequia begins with arrival at the ferry terminal in<br />
Port Elizabeth. “Front Street,” as the main road along the waterfront<br />
is known, is the centre of activity: from the island’s administration<br />
building and post office to the vegetable market to historic<br />
St Mary’s Anglican church (at right), rebuilt after a hurricane in 1829.<br />
Residential neighbourhoods climb the steep surrounding hills. South<br />
of Port Elizabeth, the Belmont Walkway runs along the coast, lined<br />
by restaurants, bars, and small hotels, in the direction of Princess<br />
Margaret Beach, the island’s most famous swimming spot. Heading<br />
the other way, north, the coast road leads to the remains of Hamilton<br />
Fort, situated to command the entrance to the bay.<br />
wilfred dederer<br />
History<br />
With its indigenous name meaning “island of the<br />
clouds,” Bequia was originally settled by Caribs,<br />
before coming under French colonial control. Ceded<br />
to Britain in 1763, along with the other Grenadines,<br />
St Vincent, and Grenada, Bequia was planted with<br />
sugarcane and arrowroot, while Admiralty Bay on<br />
the island’s west coast was considered the safest<br />
harbour in the southern British West Indies. Port<br />
Elizabeth, never large, nonetheless became an<br />
important centre for boatbuilding and ship repairs.<br />
In the 1960s and 70s, as the Grenadines were<br />
“discovered” by wealthy tourists, the economy<br />
of Bequia and its capital shifted from fishing and<br />
seafaring to tourism <strong>—</strong> helped by the gorgeous<br />
beaches and dive sites close offshore.<br />
78 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
Plans to hatch<br />
Found throughout the world’s oceans, but<br />
critically endangered in all its habitats, the<br />
hawksbill sea turtle finds a special refuge in<br />
Bequia, thanks to the efforts of the Old Hegg<br />
Turtle Sanctuary. Founded by retired fisherman<br />
Orton “Brother” King, the Old Hegg sanctuary<br />
collects hawksbill hatchlings at the moment they<br />
emerge from their nests on Bequia’s beaches<br />
<strong>—</strong> at the time of their greatest vulnerability to<br />
predators. Normally, as few as one hawksbill<br />
hatchling in a thousand survives to breeding<br />
age. Reared in sheltered ponds until they grow<br />
to fourteen inches, Old Hegg’s young turtles get<br />
a headstart against those odds. And visitors’<br />
donations keep the whole thing going.<br />
czekma13/istock.com<br />
Souvenir<br />
As you’d expect in a small island with a strong seafaring tradition, Bequia is<br />
home to numerous expert boatbuilders, as you can see at the island’s Boat<br />
Museum (above). And though a full-scale vessel isn’t a very practical gift<br />
to take home, Bequia’s woodworkers also create intricately detailed model<br />
boats, replicating all the details of a seaworthy craft at miniature scale, down<br />
to the sails and rigging. For examples, check Mauvin’s and the Sargeant<br />
Brothers’ model boat shops, near the vegetable market in Port Elizabeth.<br />
For such a small island, Bequia is also home to an unusually large and<br />
active community of artists, local and expat, working in media ranging from<br />
painting to textiles and ceramics, and often inspired by the lush landscape,<br />
history, and traditions of the island community.<br />
Many artists welcome studio visits, and the<br />
Oasis Gallery along the Belmont Walkway is a<br />
good place to get your bearings.<br />
wilfred dederer<br />
Co-ordinates<br />
13.0º N 61.2º W<br />
Sea level<br />
bEQUIA<br />
wilfred dederer<br />
Port Elizabeth<br />
Appetite<br />
From elegant French-inspired cuisine to hearty, zesty creole fare, Port<br />
Elizabeth and its surroundings have a more diverse dining scene than<br />
you might expect on an island of just six thousand inhabitants. Seafood<br />
is naturally the star attraction <strong>—</strong> especially lobster, in season, when<br />
you can enjoy it at the upscale Auberge de Grenadines or on a pizza at<br />
Mac’s. Frangipani is famous for its Thursday night barbecue <strong>—</strong> all you<br />
can eat, with live steelpan music. For a memorable meal in breathtaking<br />
surroundings, head out of town and up to Mount Pleasant, Bequia’s<br />
highest point, where The Old Fort hotel is centred around a historic<br />
French-built stone mansion, and dinner comes with a gentle breeze and<br />
view of the twinkling lights of the other Grenadines in the distance.<br />
From <strong>March</strong> <strong>2017</strong>, <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines<br />
operates direct flights to Argyle International<br />
Airport in St Vincent, with connections via<br />
ferry and other airlines to Bequia<br />
WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 79
LAYOVER<br />
Anton_Ivanov/shutterstock.com<br />
One of the <strong>Caribbean</strong>’s most popular tourist destinations, Barbados is host to<br />
approximately 600,000 stayover visitors each year <strong>—</strong> more than twice the country’s<br />
permanent population <strong>—</strong> yet somehow manages to never feel overrun. And at just<br />
twenty-one miles by fourteen, the island is small enough to get the gist of on a brief trip.<br />
You can cover a lot of ground here in just half a day.<br />
A major hub for international flights into the<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong>, Barbados is also one of the region’s<br />
most developed tourist destinations. Our guide to<br />
exploring the island when time is tight<br />
Philip Willcocks/shutterstock.com<br />
Philip Willcocks/istock.com<br />
Grantley Adams International Airport,<br />
located near Barbados’s southern tip, is<br />
a mere couple of miles from the heavily<br />
populated stretch of the south coast<br />
between Oistins and Bridgetown. Here<br />
you’ll find hotels, restaurants, and shops<br />
galore <strong>—</strong> but also two of the island’s<br />
most popular beaches, Accra and Dover.<br />
Even a few spare hours are enough to<br />
pop down for a swim.<br />
After a long spell on a plane, a bit of a stroll<br />
is never a bad thing. And one of Barbados’s<br />
most pleasant promenades is the south<br />
coast boardwalk, opened a few years ago<br />
and already an irreplaceable feature of the<br />
island’s landscape. Running from Accra Beach<br />
to the southern outskirts of Bridgetown, the<br />
boardwalk offers sea views and sea breezes,<br />
access to beaches, benches, and picnic areas.<br />
LU LIN/shutterstock.com<br />
When Bajans refer to “the Gap,” they<br />
don’t mean a brand of khaki trousers.<br />
They’re talking about St Lawrence<br />
Gap, a street on the south coast<br />
running along the shore, and one of<br />
Barbados’s nightlife hotspots. You’ll<br />
find it all here: high-end restaurants,<br />
dive bars, karaoke joints, an Irish pub,<br />
plus Italian, French, Mexican, and local<br />
cuisine. Just one night to spend on the<br />
town? The Gap is your one-stop shop.<br />
Anneli Salo/wikimedia commons<br />
The tides of history bring strange flotsam.<br />
Did you know the last descendant of the<br />
emperors of Byzantium, a gentleman<br />
by the name of Ferdinando Paleologus,<br />
ended his days in Barbados in 1678? You<br />
can see his tombstone in the graveyard of<br />
St John’s Parish Church, with its stunning<br />
views across the east coast <strong>—</strong> a short drive<br />
from the airport, but a long journey back<br />
through time.<br />
Let’s sidestep the contentious question<br />
of whether rum was actually invented in<br />
Barbados. The fact is, the fiery beverage<br />
has been distilled here for over 350 years<br />
<strong>—</strong> and if you’re looking for a crash course<br />
in rumology, you can get it in just fortyfive<br />
minutes at the Mount Gay Distillery<br />
on the Bridgetown waterfront. The tour<br />
includes a bit of history, a bit of science,<br />
and a bit of taste-testing.<br />
courtesy mount gay distillery<br />
80 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
ENGAGE<br />
Bettmann / getty images<br />
82 Inspire<br />
Inner-city art<br />
86<br />
On This Day<br />
Calypso with a<br />
conscience<br />
84 Green<br />
Progress report<br />
Cultural and political icon Harry Belafonte in the 1950s
INSPIRE<br />
Innercity<br />
art<br />
When a group of young artists<br />
decided to start a public mural project<br />
in downtown Kingston, it wasn’t just<br />
about beautifying one of Jamaica’s<br />
most deprived neighbourhoods. It<br />
was also an experiment in creating<br />
opportunities for the local community,<br />
as Tanya Batson-Savage finds out<br />
Photography by Matthew Henry<br />
The shell of the old Toyota warehouse at 41 Fleet Street is a ghost<br />
from a bygone era. But concrete skeletons are nothing rare in<br />
downtown Kingston, even as the Jamaican capital shows signs of<br />
a revival. Buried in southside Kingston, a javelin’s throw away from<br />
the Rae Town neighbourhood, a few years ago Fleet Street was a<br />
part of Kingston outsiders were told to avoid.<br />
But today 41 Fleet Street attracts growing interest from Kingstonians and<br />
foreign visitors alike. That interest comes in the wake of Paint Jamaica, a project<br />
that transformed the abandoned warehouse into a creative mecca. Now, new<br />
life, energy, and interest have been brought back to the community, outlining the<br />
transformative power of art. The old warehouse, the Paint Jamaica flagship, bears<br />
uplifting murals with messages of hope and change. It is more than a beautiful<br />
space. Though roofless, which is a part of its charm, the Fleet Street warehouse has<br />
become a space for members of the community to stage events and hold meetings,<br />
and several musicians have made it a space to shoot music videos.<br />
Paint Jamaica is more a movement than a foundation, but its foundations are<br />
rock solid: using art to create and inspire change. While the idea took root after<br />
a meeting between its founder, French-Egyptian Marianna Farag, and Jamaican<br />
artist Matthew McCarthy, its collective vision is touted as the reason for its success.<br />
As it currently stands, Paint Jamaica is an undefined collective, which in part<br />
came to life via social media, particularly a Facebook page. Farag and McCarthy<br />
met during the 2013 New Roots exhibition at the<br />
National Gallery of Jamaica, where McCarthy’s<br />
striking graffiti-style art festooned the walls.<br />
Their conversation revealed a shared interest<br />
in art as a tool for transformation and change.<br />
Paint Jamaica epitomises the possibilities<br />
of a grassroots movement in the digital era.<br />
Along with the Facebook page, which facilitated<br />
discussions, the project used an online signup<br />
sheet for volunteers and raised most of its<br />
budget through crowdfunding. These funds<br />
were offset by in-kind donations from Jamaican<br />
companies. But ensuring that the project is<br />
steered by the needs of the community, rather<br />
than the desires of a corporate sponsor, was an<br />
important consideration.<br />
“<br />
There’s a side to Jamaica that has<br />
been left out of the conversation,<br />
and this project allows them to be<br />
a part of the conversation again,” McCarthy<br />
says. That conversation has been critical to<br />
Paint Jamaica’s sustainability, and the fact that<br />
it remains an important part of the community<br />
two years after execution. McCarthy explains<br />
that the participating artists walked through the<br />
community for weeks prior to the actual painting,<br />
to ensure their ideas and interests were reflected<br />
in the space. It was a process they repeated<br />
before painting the murals now garnishing the<br />
walls of the Holy Family Primary School, also<br />
in the same community. “If you don’t speak to<br />
82 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
we got there,” McCarthy explains. “What we’re<br />
doing is reviving Kingston to what it used to be.”<br />
As McCarthy points out, Paint Jamaica is not<br />
the first attempt to use street art for transformation<br />
in Kingston. He points to the work of Rosie Chung<br />
of Studio 174, and Alison Perkins, who conducted<br />
the Red Rubberband painting project through the<br />
Kingston on the Edge (KOTE) festival. Still, Paint<br />
Jamaica has easily been the most successful. “Not<br />
only do you paint something, but you also attract<br />
the attention of other people who wanted to do<br />
something,” McCarthy says. Indeed, the project<br />
would not have been successful without throngs<br />
of volunteers from the community and outside<br />
it. Working on the project also significantly<br />
boosted the skills of the individual artists in<br />
creating murals, as well as better understanding<br />
A girl from the neighbourhood,<br />
posing here with<br />
her friend, discovers an uncanny<br />
resemblance in artist<br />
Matthew Henry’s mural<br />
the people in the community, you don’t get the authentic story,”<br />
McCarthy says.<br />
Additionally, Paint Jamaica has benefitted from a democratic<br />
process among the artists. The group found themselves inspired<br />
by the 2011 Arab Spring and its germination via Facebook. So<br />
they too started a Facebook page, and invited other interested<br />
artists to share and participate.<br />
One key element is that interest in the Fleet Street project has<br />
leveraged opportunities for both the artists who have worked on<br />
the project and members of the community as well. One of these<br />
is Life Yard, an ital (i.e. vegetarian) cookshop that operates just<br />
across the street from the warehouse. Apart from benefitting<br />
from patronage by visitors to the mural, Life Yard has also been<br />
hired to cater events outside the neighbourhood.<br />
And members of the community are getting exposure and<br />
making connections and gaining opportunities previously<br />
closed off to them, because of the music videos and photo shoots<br />
taking place there. “There are a lot of artistic people in the<br />
community, and they’ve been practicing their craft long before<br />
Paint Jamaica is more<br />
a movement than a<br />
foundation, but its<br />
foundations are rock solid:<br />
using art to create and<br />
inspire change<br />
how to run art projects aimed at stimulating<br />
development.<br />
Yet, despite the project’s success, Paint<br />
Jamaica has been deliberately slow in proliferation<br />
across the island. “It was alluring to go everywhere, but it was<br />
also beautiful to stay there and watch the community grow,”<br />
McCarthy says. “Many people consider me a painter, but I<br />
personally consider myself a social engineer.”<br />
Interestingly, Paint Jamaica was born after the police had<br />
systematically removed murals of fallen “dons” from the walls<br />
of several communities throughout Kingston. McCarthy admits<br />
that the decision to pursue the project was a direct response<br />
to that. “We try to do things that will have an impact because<br />
they are a response to other things that are happening,” he says.<br />
“This project is a very diplomatic project. We don’t do anything<br />
because we think it should be done, we do it because we feel it<br />
must be done. The neglect was unreasonable. I don’t think any<br />
community should suffer from this kind of neglect.”<br />
For Paint Jamaica, its greatest impact will not simply be how<br />
it transforms one community, but rather how it inspires others<br />
to do the same. “I want to make sure that every artist feels the<br />
current of this project,” McCarthy says, “that they can do this<br />
too. We were just a set of average Joes on Facebook.” n<br />
WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 83
GREEN<br />
Progress<br />
report<br />
Over the past twenty-five years,<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> has frequently reported on<br />
environmental projects across the region.<br />
But what’s the real state of progress when<br />
it comes to protecting our natural resources,<br />
our coastlines and reefs, the air we breathe<br />
and water we drink? Nazma Muller talks<br />
to two experts about the lie of the land <strong>—</strong><br />
The <strong>Caribbean</strong> is treasured<br />
and revered globally<br />
as one of the world’s<br />
most biologically diverse<br />
regions, with more than<br />
twelve thousand marine<br />
species, ten per cent of the world’s coral<br />
reefs, and fifteen thousand plant species. But<br />
the last quarter century has seen significant<br />
damage to our natural environment, as a<br />
result of increased industrialisation and<br />
automation, the use of chemicals and<br />
toxins, and consumption of commodities<br />
like plastics, electronics, appliances,<br />
Styrofoam, meat, and packaging.<br />
Fortunately, the <strong>Caribbean</strong> has also<br />
made huge strides in raising awareness<br />
of the effects our human activities<br />
are having on our once-pristine<br />
and the way forward<br />
Photography by Gail Johnson/Shutterstock.com<br />
waters, as well as our air, land, and<br />
wildlife. Across the region, more of our<br />
people are beginning to comprehend<br />
the true extent of the vulnerability of<br />
our coastlines and the mounting threats<br />
they face, particularly climate change.<br />
Ocean warming and acidification have<br />
contributed to a dramatic loss of coral<br />
reefs, which are invaluable habitats for<br />
fish and other marine life.<br />
“We are seeing so much contamination<br />
of our water, air pollution <strong>—</strong> and flooding<br />
is becoming more frequent because of<br />
natural disasters, so there is greater<br />
awareness by politicians and decisionmakers<br />
about environmental issues,”<br />
explains Christopher Corbin, programme<br />
officer for the <strong>Caribbean</strong> Environment<br />
Programme. CEP was established by the<br />
United Nations Environment Programme<br />
(UNEP) in 1981, within the framework of<br />
its Regional Seas Programme.<br />
“Up until more recently, a lot of the<br />
environmental issues were communicated<br />
in a scientific way,” Corbin adds. “It’s been<br />
all the things that the public should not<br />
do, and not necessarily providing them<br />
with alternatives. Gradually, we are<br />
seeing a lot more participatory planning,<br />
so we are moving in the right direction.”<br />
For the <strong>Caribbean</strong> private sector,<br />
engagement in environmental issues has<br />
not been driven by government policy<br />
and enforcement, says Corbin. <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />
governments have lagged behind in<br />
implementing policies to protect the<br />
environment. Tourism has been a doubleedged<br />
sword for many of our territories,<br />
further burdening inadequate solid waste<br />
management and sanitation systems.<br />
“But they are becoming more aware of<br />
their impact on the environment,” Corbin<br />
says. “Hotels that want to attract a certain<br />
kind of visitor are moving to incorporate<br />
sustainable practices on their properties<br />
<strong>—</strong> for example, they will do what is<br />
necessary by international standards to<br />
be deemed ‘green.’ They are recognising<br />
the benefits of going green.”<br />
As our regional economists better<br />
comprehend the effects of environmental<br />
84 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
Mangrove-lined seashore in Bonaire<br />
accounting, we are seeing the private<br />
sector make an effort to incorporate<br />
practices such as reusing waste water<br />
and cutting down on packaging. It’s<br />
simply not in their interest to have a dirty<br />
beach, polluted waters, or dead reefs.<br />
But “the industrial land-based private<br />
sector still needs a lot more work,”<br />
Corbin says. Governments have a very<br />
important role to play <strong>—</strong> by offering<br />
certain incentives to undertake pollution<br />
prevention measures, such as retrofitting<br />
factories and implementing disincentives<br />
to waste production.<br />
While it’s imperative to find<br />
economic opportunities for<br />
our people, in the face of<br />
limited resources, high debt ratios, and<br />
vulnerabilility to natural disasters, much<br />
can be done by focusing on the type of<br />
development agenda <strong>Caribbean</strong> countries<br />
subscribe to, Corbin believes. And, he<br />
says, our governments are beginning<br />
to articulate their interest in a “blue<br />
economy” and a “green economy.” “We<br />
are seeing a new kind of thinking,” he<br />
says. “What we need now are land use<br />
development plans that maximise what<br />
developed countries have already started<br />
to do <strong>—</strong> urban farms, clean energy, etc. We<br />
need to be more open and imaginative, but<br />
we also need to have better enforcement<br />
of laws that protect the environment.” If<br />
policies aren’t enforced, Corbin says, it’s<br />
not going to work.<br />
For most countries in the region except<br />
oil- and gas-rich Trinidad and Tobago, the<br />
costs of continued use of fossil fuels are<br />
a major issue, Corbin says. “We have<br />
thermal, solar, and wind energy in use<br />
already in the <strong>Caribbean</strong>. There is a real<br />
opportunity for us to embrace alternative<br />
energy and move forward.”<br />
Considering the big-picture question of<br />
climate change, Donna Blake, the Nature<br />
Conservancy’s Jamaica programme<br />
director, is hopeful. “Governments<br />
and communities are taking action to<br />
proactively address the challenges of<br />
climate change,” she says. She points out<br />
that at the regional level the establishment<br />
of the <strong>Caribbean</strong> Community (CARICOM)<br />
Climate Change Centre, which focuses<br />
solely on climate change education and<br />
adaptation projects, is a noteworthy<br />
advance.<br />
The Nature Conservancy itself has<br />
designed programmes to work with coastal<br />
communities facing climate-related risks.<br />
“At the Water’s Edge,” a collaborative<br />
project with the International Federation<br />
of the Red Cross, builds resilience in<br />
communities in Grenada and St Vincent<br />
and the Grenadines by empowering<br />
people to assess the social, ecological,<br />
and economic risks of climate change,<br />
and make informed decisions about how<br />
to use their resources sustainably. The<br />
initiative provides decision-making tools<br />
and training for nature-based climate<br />
resilience strategies, such as coastal<br />
mangrove restoration.<br />
“It’s easy to take nature for granted, and<br />
all that it provides us in the <strong>Caribbean</strong>,”<br />
Blake says. “But when threats become<br />
apparent and natural disasters grow<br />
more prevalent, we quickly and sharply<br />
feel the loss of security in our natural<br />
environment that we may have once felt.”<br />
Her experience suggests that as<br />
people learn more they find their voice<br />
Across the <strong>Caribbean</strong>, more of our people are<br />
beginning to comprehend the true extent of the<br />
vulnerability of our coastlines<br />
and are able to be involved in solutions.<br />
They have the information to support,<br />
or question if needs be, decisions made<br />
by governments and the private sector,<br />
because they understand the long-term<br />
implications of changes to policy or<br />
business practices. “Moving forward, I<br />
believe people will have the knowledge<br />
to drive sufficient demand for cleaner<br />
energy, more efficient use of resources,<br />
and climate-adaptive policies regarding<br />
coastal development, tourism, and<br />
fishing. So in another twenty-five years,<br />
the human footprint across the <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />
will take a far more sustainable shape.” n<br />
WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 85
on this day<br />
Calypso with a<br />
conscience<br />
Celebrating his ninetieth birthday<br />
this year, Harry Belafonte has<br />
built a stellar career around<br />
two themes that may at<br />
first appear at odds:<br />
popular entertainment<br />
and political activism. As<br />
James Ferguson explains,<br />
both aspects are rooted<br />
in Belafonte’s Jamaican<br />
background and his early<br />
years in Kingston<br />
Illustration by Rohan Mitchell<br />
In 1956, the year in which Elvis Presley topped the US<br />
singles chart with “Heartbreak Hotel”, America’s bestselling<br />
album was neither by Presley nor by the likes of Little<br />
Richard or Chuck Berry <strong>—</strong> but by a rather more unlikely<br />
superstar. Harry Belafonte’s Calypso remained at number<br />
one for thirty-one consecutive weeks, and was the first LP<br />
in US history to sell more than a million copies. The improbability<br />
of its success lay not in the artist’s talents (the good-looking<br />
and suave Belafonte was a consummate crooner), but more in the<br />
fact that the album showcased aspects of what was then littleknown<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> popular culture <strong>—</strong> and that the performer was<br />
an American-born political militant close to Martin Luther King,<br />
Jr, and the communist sympathiser Paul Robeson.<br />
The two main themes of Belafonte’s long and distinguished<br />
career <strong>—</strong> entertainment and activism <strong>—</strong> may at first glance<br />
appear contradictory. Surely the superficiality of popular music<br />
and Broadway offers a bad fit with the seriousness of the struggle<br />
for civil rights and socialism? Not necessarily. Both sides of<br />
Belafonte’s life can be traced back to his early years in New York<br />
and Jamaica, and both are very much interrelated.<br />
Harold George Bellanfanti was born ninety years ago this<br />
month, on 1 <strong>March</strong>, 1927, in Harlem. His parents were both<br />
of Jamaican origin: his maternal grandparents were a black<br />
sharecropper from St Ann parish and a white woman of Scottish<br />
descent, while his father’s parents were a black Jamaican<br />
woman and, in Belafonte’s own words, “a white Dutch Jew who’d<br />
drifted over to the islands after chasing gold and diamonds,<br />
86 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
with no luck at all, in the newly formed colonies of West Africa.”<br />
The family was thus a microcosm of the <strong>Caribbean</strong> melting pot<br />
formed by generations of migration and slavery, and the young<br />
Belafonte was brought up aware of all the nuances of colour to<br />
be found in the region.<br />
In her book Becoming Belafonte, Judith E. Smith describes<br />
the daily hardships of poverty and racism confronting young<br />
Harry and his parents, Millie and Harold, Sr, in 1930s New York.<br />
Work was precarious, accommodation often squalid, and after<br />
a younger brother, Dennis, was born, Harry’s father began to<br />
distance himself from the family. As illegal migrants, they lived<br />
in fear of deportation, and the name Bellanfanti was changed<br />
to Belafonte to throw immigration agents off the scent. Fearful<br />
for her older son in a climate of rising racial tension, Millie sent<br />
him to her mother in Jamaica for a year in 1934. Then in 1936,<br />
as the Depression intensified, Millie took her two sons back to<br />
Jamaica again, enrolling them in separate schools, where they<br />
would stay until 1940.<br />
This early experience was to prove life-changing. Far from<br />
the raucous street life of Harlem, Belafonte was subjected<br />
to the stifling conformity of British colonial society and its<br />
anachronistic education system. He was, writes Smith, forced to<br />
eat in the kitchen when guests came to dinner at his aunt’s house,<br />
considered too dark-skinned for polite society. To this ostracism<br />
was added his witnessing of woeful social conditions, the labour<br />
strikes in Kingston in 1938 (“a violent peasant uprising,” he said),<br />
and their inevitable repression.<br />
Even as Harry Belafonte was<br />
introducing an often suspicious<br />
American public to a non-white<br />
world, he was subtly challenging<br />
any misconceptions about the<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong><br />
But if Belafonte’s sense of injustice was fuelled by these years,<br />
so too was his appreciation of the <strong>Caribbean</strong>’s diverse musical<br />
landscape. Kingston was alive with music, particularly mento,<br />
the gentle acoustic predecessor of ska that was loved by cruise<br />
ship tourists. There was also calypso from Trinidad, enormously<br />
popular in Jamaica, and full of acerbic political commentary.<br />
Belafonte had previously been fascinated by the swing music of<br />
Duke Ellington and New York’s vibrant black culture, and now<br />
he experienced at first hand the sounds of the <strong>Caribbean</strong> and<br />
South America.<br />
Returning to Harlem aged thirteen, Belafonte again faced<br />
poverty and prejudice. He dropped out of school, did menial<br />
jobs, and eventually enlisted in the navy. A chance encounter<br />
led him to watch a performance by the American Negro Theatre.<br />
Friendly with Bahamian Sidney Poitier, he studied acting at New<br />
York’s prestigious New School (where contemporaries included<br />
Poitier, Walter Matthau, and Marlon Brando). This he paid for by<br />
singing in clubs. His first single, “Matilda”, was a hit calypso of<br />
1953, in which he lamented: “Hey! Ma-til-da; Ma-til-da; Ma-tilda,<br />
she take me money and run a-Venezuela.”<br />
It was the million-selling album of three years later, however,<br />
that earned him the title of “King of Calypso” <strong>—</strong> a title with<br />
which he admitted he felt uneasy. The songs on the Calypso LP,<br />
he pointed out, “weren’t calypso at all <strong>—</strong> even though everybody<br />
seems to have hung that tag on them.” And he was an American,<br />
not a Trinidadian <strong>—</strong> the true prerequisite for calypso royalty.<br />
More particularly, his signature song, “Day-O (The Banana<br />
Boat Song)”, may have been thought of as a calypso, but in reality<br />
its roots lay in mento and, further back, as a traditional call-andresponse<br />
folk song performed by Jamaica’s banana workers as<br />
they loaded the cargo onto United Fruit boats. The song records<br />
the workers’ fatigue after a night’s work, their desire to go home,<br />
and their impatient wait for “Mister tally man” to record their<br />
work rate and pay:<br />
Work all night on a drink of rum<br />
Daylight come and me wan’ go home<br />
Stack banana till de mornin’ come<br />
Daylight come and me wan’ go home<br />
Far from repeating the clichés of the <strong>Caribbean</strong> idyll, the song<br />
evoked a gruelling and thankless job where the “deadly black<br />
tarantula” posed a real threat. In this sense, while spectacularly<br />
successful in commercial terms, it also introduced the listener to<br />
a world in which poverty and hard work coexisted.<br />
Nor did the 1957 film Island in the Sun, in which Belafonte<br />
appeared and sang the title song, present a sugar-coated version<br />
of the <strong>Caribbean</strong>. The film explores the political and racial<br />
tensions between the old colonial order and a newly powerful<br />
nationalist movement exemplified by Belafonte’s ambitious<br />
character, the politician David Boyeur. Again, the song is less<br />
about “paradise” than tough economic reality:<br />
I see woman on bended knee<br />
Cutting cane for her family<br />
I see man at the waterside<br />
Casting nets at the surging tide<br />
Even as Harry Belafonte was introducing an often suspicious<br />
American public to a non-white world, he was subtly<br />
challenging any misconceptions about the <strong>Caribbean</strong>. In<br />
a 2006 interview with the BBC, he remarked, “When I did the<br />
‘Banana Boat Song’, for instance, that wasn’t just looking for a<br />
hit. What it did talk about was the working-class struggles of the<br />
people working on the plantations.” “Island in the Sun”, he added,<br />
“had content that talked about struggle.”<br />
As an activist whose anger shows no sign of abating (ask<br />
Donald Trump), Harry Belafonte reminds us that it is possible<br />
to mix politics with entertainment, and that popular culture<br />
can be a powerful ideological force. His extraordinary career,<br />
encompassing a wide spectrum of artistic performance,<br />
provides ample proof of the transformative power of both words<br />
and music. n<br />
WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 87
puzzles<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7<br />
CARIBBEAN CROSSWORD<br />
Across<br />
1 It’s <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong>’s <strong>25th</strong>! [11]<br />
6 A shorter Robert [3]<br />
8 Put off [8]<br />
9 Garlicky Italian shrimp [6]<br />
11 Code of conduct [5]<br />
12 Kidneys’ waste removal [9]<br />
13 Metabolic rate [5]<br />
14 West Indians who live elsewhere [8]<br />
17 Guyana’s biggest freshwater fish [8]<br />
19 Have in one’s possession [3]<br />
22 Spring flowers [9]<br />
24 Semi-precious stone [5]<br />
26 Not awake [6]<br />
27 Closing [8]<br />
28 It opens a lock [3]<br />
29 <strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong>’s original cover subject [6,5]<br />
8 9<br />
10<br />
11 12<br />
13 14 15<br />
16<br />
17 18 19 20<br />
21<br />
22 23 24 25<br />
26 27<br />
Down<br />
1 Spanish Andrew [5]<br />
2 V-shaped cuts [7]<br />
3 Chicken pox [9]<br />
4 Monkey business in the blood [6]<br />
5 Agave plant [5]<br />
6 Italian baby [7]<br />
7 Trinidad’s most famous cricketer [5,4]<br />
28 29<br />
10 Brilliantly coloured [5]<br />
13 This runs along Barbados’s south<br />
coast [9]<br />
15 Baseball position [9]<br />
16 Scope [5]<br />
18 Appallingly [7]<br />
20 Of a wedding [7]<br />
21 It makes breathing difficult [6]<br />
23 Unhealthily overweight [5]<br />
25 The oldest Marley brother [5]<br />
SPOT THE DIFFERENCE<br />
There are 8 differences between these two pictures. How many can you spot?<br />
by Gregory St Bernard<br />
Spot the Difference<br />
answers<br />
Mountain range is higher;<br />
treetops are lower; sunglasses<br />
are added; colour<br />
of t-shirt is changed from<br />
yellow to white; colour of<br />
glove is different; backpack<br />
is bigger; buckle on<br />
right backpack strap is<br />
higher; belt buckle is different;<br />
pants are shorter.<br />
88 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
WORD SEARCH<br />
abeer<br />
apology<br />
ball<br />
bat<br />
batik<br />
Bequia<br />
blues<br />
cave<br />
cover<br />
curry<br />
Elizabeth<br />
football<br />
frog<br />
gap<br />
goat<br />
Guyana<br />
Holi<br />
lagoon<br />
Machel<br />
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mistake<br />
mural<br />
oopsie<br />
painter<br />
Pakaraima<br />
Reggae Boyz<br />
rocket<br />
roti<br />
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silver<br />
spice<br />
sprinter<br />
surfing<br />
Suriname<br />
sustainable<br />
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wicket<br />
yacht<br />
R E V L I S X C U R R Y Q E M<br />
E R E T F R E B A T E V A C T<br />
V L K A R E S U E D G V R I S<br />
O A A O O T O K L A G R Y P U<br />
C R T G G N C A P B A E G S R<br />
S U S T A I N A B L E T O S F<br />
I M I L W R O T I N B N L E I<br />
T E M E G P W H O R O I O N N<br />
H I B H N S M O O H Y A P D G<br />
C S E C I X G C H L Z P A E A<br />
A P Q A P A K A R A I M A K B<br />
Y O U M L E V O R G N A M C E<br />
F O I H T E B A Z I L E S I E<br />
L L A B T O O F B A T I K W R<br />
H E M A N I R U S G U Y A N A<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> Magazine<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> Magazine<br />
Sudoku<br />
by www.sudoku-puzzle.net<br />
Fill the empty square with numbers<br />
from 1 to 9 so that each row, each<br />
column, and each 3x3 box contains<br />
all of the numbers from 1 to 9. For<br />
the mini sudoku use numbers from<br />
1 to 6.<br />
If the puzzle you want to do has<br />
already been filled in, just ask your<br />
flight attendant for a new copy of the<br />
magazine!<br />
Sudoku 9x9 - Puzzle 2 of 5 - Very Easy<br />
Hard 9x9 sudoku puzzle<br />
6 4 3 7 5<br />
1 8<br />
2 9 6 7<br />
1 4 3 6 9 2<br />
2 7<br />
7 5 9 2 3 4<br />
6 9 3 1<br />
7 5<br />
9 8 1 4 6<br />
www.sudoku-puzzles.net<br />
Sudoku 6x6 - Puzzle 1 of 5 - Medium<br />
Easy 6x6 mini sudoku puzzle<br />
5<br />
2 1<br />
6 5<br />
3 6<br />
3 4<br />
6 3<br />
www.sudoku-puzzles.net<br />
www.sudoku-puzzle.net<br />
Solutions<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> Crossword<br />
Word Search<br />
E Y 29 E U Z H A N P A L C Y<br />
L L S M O A G<br />
S L E E P 27 S H U T T I N G<br />
W U B T T S T I<br />
Sudoku<br />
www.sudoku-puzzles.net<br />
Mini Sudoku<br />
Sudoku 6x6 - Solution 1 of 5 - Medium<br />
Sudoku 9x9 - Solution 2 of 5 - Very Easy<br />
4 1 2 6 3 5<br />
5 6 3 4 2 1<br />
6 8 1 4 3 7 2 9 5<br />
5 7 4 2 9 1 8 6 3<br />
3 2 9 6 5 8 7 4 1<br />
R E V L I S X C U R R Y Q E M<br />
E R E T F R E B A T E V A C T<br />
A<br />
1<br />
1 4 8 3 7 6 9 5 2<br />
2 9 3 1 4 5 6 8 7<br />
7 6 5 9 8 2 1 3 4<br />
4 5 6 7 2 9 3 1 8<br />
8 1 7 5 6 3 4 2 9<br />
9 3 2 8 1 4 5 7 6<br />
www.sudoku-puzzles.net<br />
D<br />
8<br />
N 2 N I 3 V E 4 R S A R 5 Y<br />
6 B O 7<br />
B<br />
N O A H U A R<br />
E T E R R E D 9 S C A M P I<br />
R C I S 10 V C B A<br />
6 2 5 1 4 3<br />
1 3 4 5 6 2<br />
3 4 1 2 5 6<br />
2 5 6 3 1 4<br />
E<br />
11<br />
B<br />
13<br />
T H I C 12 U R I N A T I O N<br />
E E S V N L<br />
A S A L 14 D I A 15 S P O R A<br />
O L 16 A D H R<br />
A<br />
17<br />
R 18 A P A I M A 19 O W N<br />
R W B 21 A R U<br />
20 A<br />
A F F 23 O D I L S 24 T O P A 25<br />
Z<br />
K<br />
28<br />
A<br />
26<br />
D<br />
22<br />
V L K A R E S U E D G V R I S<br />
O A A O O T O K L A G R Y P U<br />
C R T G G N C A P B A E G S R<br />
S U S T A I N A B L E T O S F<br />
I M I L W R O T I N B N L E I<br />
T E M E G P W H O R O I O N N<br />
H I B H N S M O O H Y A P D G<br />
C S E C I X G C H L Z P A E A<br />
H E M A N I R U S G U Y A N A<br />
L L A B T O O F B A T I K W R<br />
F O I H T E B A Z I L E S I E<br />
Y O U M L E V O R G N A M C E<br />
A P Q A P A K A R A I M A K B<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> Magazine<br />
WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 89<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> <strong>Beat</strong> Magazine
87% (<strong>2017</strong> year-to-date: 31 January)
<strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines<br />
/<br />
Across the World<br />
CARIBBEAN<br />
Trinidad Head Office<br />
Airport: Piarco International<br />
Reservations & information:<br />
+ 868 625 7200 (local)<br />
Ticket offices: Nicholas Towers,<br />
Independence Square, Port of Spain;<br />
Golden Grove Road, Piarco;<br />
Carlton Centre, San Fernando<br />
Baggage: + 868 669 3000 Ext 7513/4<br />
Antigua<br />
Airport: VC Bird International<br />
Reservations & information:<br />
+ 800 744 2225 (toll free)<br />
Ticketing: VC Bird International Airport<br />
Hours: Mon – Fri 8 am – 4 pm<br />
Baggage: + 268-480-5705 Tues, Thurs, Fri, Sun,<br />
or + 268 462 0528 Mon, Wed, Sat.<br />
Hours: Mon – Fri 4 am – 10 pm<br />
Barbados<br />
Airport: Grantley Adams International<br />
Reservations & information: 1 246 429 5929 /<br />
1 800 744 2225 (toll free)<br />
City Ticket Office: 1st Floor Norman Centre Building,<br />
Broad Street, Bridgetown, Barbados<br />
Ticket office hours: 6 am – 10 am & 11 am –<br />
7 pm daily<br />
Flight Information: + 1 800 744 2225<br />
Baggage: + 1 246 428 1650/1 or + 1 246 428 7101<br />
ext. 4628<br />
Grenada<br />
Airport: Maurice Bishop International<br />
Reservations & Information:<br />
1 800 744 2225 (toll free)<br />
Ticketing: Maurice Bishop International Main<br />
Terminal<br />
Baggage: + 473 439 0681<br />
Jamaica (Kingston)<br />
Airport: Norman Manley International<br />
Reservations & information: + 800 523 5585 (International);<br />
1 888 359 2475 (Local)<br />
City Ticket Office: 128 Old Hope Road, Kingston 6<br />
Hours: Mon-Fri 7.30 am – 5.30 pm,<br />
Saturdays 10 am – 4 pm<br />
Airport Ticket Office: Norman Manley Airport<br />
Counter #1<br />
Hours: 3.30 am – 8 pm daily<br />
Baggage: + 876 924 8500<br />
Jamaica (Montego Bay)<br />
Airport: Sangster International<br />
Reservations & information:<br />
+ 800 744 2225 (toll free)<br />
Ticketing at check-in counter:<br />
8.30 am – 6 pm daily<br />
Baggage: + 876 363 6433<br />
Nassau<br />
Airport: Lynden Pindling International<br />
Terminal: Concourse 2<br />
Reservations & information: + 1 242 377 3300<br />
(local)<br />
Airport Ticket Office: Terminal A-East Departure<br />
Hours: Flight days – Sat, Mon, Thurs 10 am – 4 pm<br />
Non-flight days – Tues, Wed, Fri 10 am – 4 pm<br />
Flight Information: + 1 242 377 3300 (local)<br />
Baggage: + 1 242 377 7035 Ext 255<br />
9 am – 5 pm daily<br />
St Maarten<br />
Airport: Princess Juliana International<br />
Reservations & information: + 1721 546 7660/7661<br />
(local)<br />
Ticket office: PJIA Departure Concourse<br />
Baggage: + 1721 546 7660/3<br />
Hours: Mon – Fri 9 am – 5 pm / Sat 9 am – 6 pm<br />
St Lucia<br />
Airport: George F L Charles<br />
Reservations & information: 1 800 744 2225<br />
Ticket office: George F.L. Charles Airport<br />
Ticket office hours: 10 am – 4 pm<br />
Baggage contact number: 1 758 452 2789<br />
or 1 758 451 7269<br />
Tobago<br />
Airport: ANR Robinson International<br />
Reservations & information: + 868 660 7200 (local)<br />
Ticket office: ANR Robinson International Airport<br />
Baggage: + 639 0595 / 631 8023<br />
Flight information: + 868 669 3000<br />
NORTH AMERICA<br />
Fort Lauderdale<br />
Airport: Hollywood Fort Lauderdale International<br />
Reservations & information: + 800 920 4225<br />
(toll free)<br />
Ticketing: Terminal 4 – departures level (during<br />
flight check-in ONLY – 7.30 am to 7 pm)<br />
Baggage: + 954 359 4487<br />
Miami<br />
Airport: Miami International<br />
Reservations & information: + 800 920 4225<br />
(toll free)<br />
Ticketing: South Terminal J – departures level (during<br />
flight check-in ONLY – 12 pm to 3.00 pm);<br />
Baggage: + 305 869 3795<br />
Orlando<br />
Airport: Orlando International<br />
Reservations & information:<br />
+ 800 920 4225 (toll free)<br />
Ticketing: Terminal A – departures level<br />
(during flight check-in ONLY – Mon/Fri 11:30 am<br />
– 2.15 pm)<br />
Baggage: + 407 825 3482<br />
New York<br />
Airport: John F Kennedy International<br />
Reservations & information: + 800 920 4225<br />
(toll free)<br />
Ticketing: Concourse B, Terminal 4, JFK<br />
International – open 24 hours (situated at departures,<br />
4th floor)<br />
Baggage: + 718 360 8930<br />
Toronto<br />
Airport: Lester B Pearson International<br />
Reservations & information: + 800 920 4225<br />
(toll free)<br />
Ticket office: Terminal 3<br />
Ticketing available daily at check-in counters<br />
422 and 423. Available 3 hours prior to<br />
departure times<br />
Baggage: + 905 672 9991<br />
SOUTH AMERICA<br />
Caracas<br />
Airport: Simón Bolívar International<br />
Reservations & information:<br />
+ 58 212 3552880<br />
Ticketing: Simón Bolívar International Level 2 –<br />
East Sector<br />
Hours: 7 am – 11 pm<br />
City Ticket Office: Sabana Grande Boulevard,<br />
Building “Galerias Bolivar”, 1st Floor, office 11-A,<br />
Caracas, Distrito Capital<br />
+ 58 212 762 4389 / 762 0231<br />
Baggage: + 58 424 1065937<br />
Guyana<br />
Airport: Cheddi Jagan International<br />
Reservations & information: + 800 744 2225<br />
(toll free)<br />
Ticket office: 91-92 Avenue of the Republic,<br />
Georgetown<br />
Baggage: + 011 592 261 2202<br />
Suriname<br />
Airport: Johan Adolf Pengel International<br />
Reservations & information: + 597 52 0034/0035<br />
(local); 1 868 625 6200 (Trinidad)<br />
Ticket Office: Paramaribo Express, N.V. Wagenwegstraat<br />
36, Paramaribo<br />
Baggage: + 597 325 437
For more information, visit us at caribbean-airlines.com/cargo
737 onboard Entertainment <strong>—</strong> MARCH/APRIL<br />
Northbound<br />
Southbound<br />
M A R C H<br />
Doctor Strange<br />
Marvel Studios’ Doctor Strange follows surgeon Stephen<br />
Strange after an injury leads him to discover powerful magic in a<br />
far-off, mysterious place.<br />
Benedict Cumberbatch, Mads Mikkelsen, Tilda Swinton • director: Scott<br />
Derrickson • action, adventure • PG-13 • 115 minutes<br />
Mr Church<br />
A unique friendship develops when a little girl and her dying<br />
mother retain the services of a talented cook <strong>—</strong> Henry Joseph<br />
Church.<br />
Eddie Murphy, Britt Robertson, Natascha McElhone • director: Bruce<br />
Beresford • drama • PG-13 • 104 minutes<br />
Northbound<br />
Southbound<br />
A P R I L<br />
Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them<br />
An orphaned boy named Pete embarks on an adventure with his<br />
best friend Elliot, who just so happens to be a dragon.<br />
Eddie Redmayne, Katherine Waterston, Dan Fogler • director: David Yates •<br />
action, adventure • PG-13 • 128 minutes<br />
Moana<br />
An adventurous teenager, with help from demigod Maui, sails<br />
out on a daring mission to prove herself a master wayfinder and<br />
save her people.<br />
Auli’i Cravalho, Dwayne Johnson, Rachel House • directors: Ron Clements,<br />
John Musker • comedy, adventure • PG • 103 minutes<br />
Audio Channels<br />
Channel 5 • The Hits<br />
Channel 7 • Concert Hall<br />
Channel 9 • Irie Vibes<br />
Channel 11 • Kaiso Kaiso<br />
Channel 6 • Soft Hits<br />
Channel 8 • East Indian Fusion<br />
Channel 10 • Jazz Sessions<br />
Channel 12 • Steelband Jamboree
www.caribbeanairlinesdutyfree.com
L. Superior<br />
L. Michigan<br />
CANADA<br />
Ottawa<br />
Detroit<br />
L. Huron<br />
Toronto<br />
L. Erie<br />
L. Ontario<br />
Montreal<br />
Augusta<br />
Boston<br />
Hartford<br />
Chicago<br />
Harrisburg New York<br />
Columbus Pittsburgh<br />
Trenton<br />
Philadelphia<br />
Washington DC<br />
St Louis<br />
Charleston<br />
Richmond<br />
USA<br />
Nashville<br />
Raleigh<br />
Halifax<br />
ROUTE MAP<br />
Atlantic<br />
Ocean<br />
Atlanta<br />
Columbia<br />
Jackson<br />
New Orleans<br />
Montgomery<br />
Tallahassee<br />
Orlando<br />
Gulf<br />
of<br />
Fort Lauderdale<br />
Miami<br />
THE BAHAMAS<br />
Nassau<br />
Mexico<br />
Havana<br />
CUBA<br />
TURKS & CAICOS<br />
Providenciales<br />
Belmopan<br />
BELIZE<br />
Montego Bay<br />
JAMAICA<br />
Kingston<br />
Port-<br />
au-<br />
Prince<br />
HAITI<br />
G r e a t e r A n t i l l e s<br />
DOM. REP.<br />
Santo<br />
Domingo<br />
San Juan<br />
PUERTO RICO<br />
St Maarten<br />
Antigua<br />
GUATEMALA<br />
Guatemala<br />
San Salvador<br />
EL SALVADOR<br />
HONDURAS<br />
Managua<br />
Tegucigalpa<br />
NICARAGUA<br />
COSTA RICA<br />
San Jose<br />
Panama<br />
C a r i b b e a n S e a<br />
L e s s e r A n t i l l e s<br />
Caracas<br />
VENEZUELA<br />
St Lucia<br />
St Vincent<br />
Grenada<br />
Tobago<br />
Barbados<br />
Trinidad<br />
PANAMA<br />
VENEZUELA<br />
Bogota<br />
COLOMBIA<br />
COLOMBIA<br />
Georgetown<br />
Paramaribo<br />
GUYANA<br />
GUYANA<br />
SURINAME<br />
FRENCH<br />
GUIANA<br />
ECUADOR<br />
Quito<br />
Rio Negro<br />
Amazon R.<br />
Rio Xingu<br />
Gulf of
parting shot<br />
Mangrove<br />
view<br />
Barbuda’s sixty-two square miles of coral limestone<br />
slope from low, gentle hills near the east coast to the<br />
mangrove wetlands of the Codrington Lagoon in<br />
the west. Protected as a national park, the lagoon is<br />
home to one of the world’s largest nesting colonies of<br />
frigate birds.<br />
Photography by André Phillip<br />
96 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
Partnering with<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines and RBC sign new agreement<br />
continuing 10 year relationship<br />
January 12th, <strong>2017</strong> marked a significant<br />
milestone in the decade-long relationship<br />
between RBC Royal Bank Limited and<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines Limited when the<br />
extended agreement between the two<br />
entities was signed.<br />
This agreement further highlights the<br />
partnership of two strong, well-established<br />
brands in the <strong>Caribbean</strong>: RBC which has<br />
operated in the <strong>Caribbean</strong> for more than<br />
100 years and <strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines which has<br />
been recognized for the sixth consecutive<br />
year as the “<strong>Caribbean</strong>’s Leading Airline”<br />
at the Annual World Travel Awards.<br />
Chief Executive Officer of RBC Financial<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> Limited, Rob Johnston, said:<br />
“The renewal of this great partnership is a<br />
significant one for RBC as it represents our<br />
commitment to our clients and to<br />
delivering improved products and services<br />
that cater to their evolving needs. We are<br />
proud of our relationship with <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />
Airlines, another strong, regional brand<br />
which is committed to serving the people<br />
of both the <strong>Caribbean</strong> and the <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />
diaspora.”<br />
Acting Chief Executive Officer of <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />
Airlines, Captain Jagmohan Singh said: “As<br />
we celebrate our tenth anniversary in <strong>2017</strong>,<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines is delighted to once<br />
again partner with RBC to deliver value to<br />
our customers. This partnership meets one<br />
of our key objectives of being customer<br />
focused, and improving the overall service<br />
offering to travelers.”<br />
In addition to the existing rewards<br />
programme, the new RBC <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />
Airlines credit card will offer both retail and<br />
business clients premium benefits such as<br />
travel insurance, concierge services and<br />
other reward earning opportunities that<br />
will allow clients to redeem faster.<br />
Watch out for exciting changes to our RBC<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> Airlines credit card in <strong>2017</strong>!<br />
Up, up and away – Captain Jagmohan Singh, CAL CEO (Ag) left, shares a<br />
moment in the cockpit with RBC CEO - Mr. Rob Johnston.<br />
An historical moment indeed – Captain Jagmohan Singh, CAL CEO (Ag) left<br />
renewed partnership. Looking on are the executive teams of both RBC and CAL.<br />
From right - Mr. Darryl White, RBC Managing Director (Trinidad & Tobago),<br />
Mr. Clayton Van Esch, Head, Products, Marketing & Channels, RBC Financial<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> , Mr. Sean Quong Sing, CAL V.P. Commercial (Ag) and Mrs. Alicia<br />
Cabrera, CAL Senior Marketing Manager.<br />
The sky is the limit – A proud moment for the Executive teams of RBC and CAL<br />
as they celebrate this partnership.<br />
® / Trademark(s) of Royal Bank of Canada. Used under licence.