Discover Trinidad & Tobago 2018 (#29)
Discover T&T has published 29 issues since 1991, and helps readers discover where to stay, dine, lime, party, and shop; and what to see (including the islands’ best sites) and experience (festivals, arts and culture, sports, and eco escapes), in both islands. There’s also a national calendar of events; info on getting here and getting around; tips for safe and sustainable travel; T&T history and society in a nutshell, maps; and more. For the third edition in the row, the magazine features a distinctive dual-cover design, with one cover for each island — a ruby topaz humming- bird photographed in the Arima Valley (photograph by Wendell Stephen Jay Reyes) and the relaxing scene of someone lounging atop a glass- bottom boat in the Nylon Pool (photograph by Tarique Eastman). Discover T&T is aimed at local and international explorers planning getaways to the islands — whether for an eco adventure, business trip, or beach holiday. For more: http://www.discovertnt.com
Discover T&T has published 29 issues since 1991, and helps readers discover where to stay, dine, lime, party, and shop; and what to see (including the islands’ best sites) and experience (festivals, arts and culture, sports, and eco escapes), in both islands. There’s also a national calendar of events; info on getting here and getting around; tips for safe and sustainable travel; T&T history and society in a nutshell, maps; and more.
For the third edition in the row, the magazine features a distinctive dual-cover design, with one cover for each island — a ruby topaz humming- bird photographed in the Arima Valley (photograph by Wendell Stephen Jay Reyes) and the relaxing scene of someone lounging atop a glass- bottom boat in the Nylon Pool (photograph by Tarique Eastman).
Discover T&T is aimed at local and international explorers planning getaways to the islands — whether for an eco adventure, business trip, or beach holiday. For more: http://www.discovertnt.com
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RAPSO IMAGING<br />
TRINIDAD<br />
8 Welcome message from the Ministry<br />
of Tourism<br />
10 Intro<br />
ESSENTIALS<br />
12 Places to stay<br />
16 The taming of the stew — where<br />
(and what) to eat<br />
24 Arts, entertainment & shopping<br />
30 Carnival & Festivals<br />
39 Sports<br />
What’s inside<br />
A hibiscus flower<br />
OTHER ESSENTIALS<br />
76 National calendar of events<br />
80 Getting here & getting around<br />
82 Tips for safe and sustainable travel<br />
86 T&T history and society in a nutshell<br />
TOBAGO<br />
91 Welcome<br />
ESSENTIALS<br />
92 Places to stay<br />
98 Savour the flavours — where (and<br />
what!) to eat<br />
101 Arts & entertainment — where to<br />
lime, and shop<br />
EXPLORE…<br />
43 Beaches, rivers & waterfalls<br />
47 Outdoor adventures<br />
52 Seeing green — eco experiences<br />
(turtle-watching, birding, & more!)<br />
60 Sightseeing (architecture & built<br />
heritage, easy day trips, familyfriendly<br />
fun, & more!)<br />
MAPS<br />
68 <strong>Trinidad</strong> Maps<br />
WET & WILD<br />
105 Beaches, rivers, waterfalls, and<br />
water sports<br />
109 Diving<br />
112 Game fishing<br />
113 Turtle-watching<br />
114 Sightseeing & day trips<br />
120 Birding<br />
125 Festivals & events<br />
130 Sports<br />
132 <strong>Tobago</strong> Map
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RAPSO IMAGING<br />
An Oropendula (Psarocolius) commonly<br />
known as a cornbird waits his turn for<br />
food at Asa Wright Nature centre<br />
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Escape the ordinary.<br />
<strong>Discover</strong> Hyatt Regency<br />
<strong>Trinidad</strong>.<br />
It’s good not to be home.
DESTINATION TRINIDAD & TOBAGO REBORN!<br />
Welcome to <strong>Trinidad</strong> & <strong>Tobago</strong>.<br />
The islands are a<br />
melting pot of cultures and<br />
warm, friendly people. Our<br />
heritage, rich and diverse<br />
culture, and extraordinary biodiversity will<br />
provide you with an experience unlike any.<br />
As a guest to our shores, you will be wowed<br />
from the moment you arrive and be sure to<br />
return again and again.<br />
There is a new energy in our country’s<br />
travel and tourism industry, which<br />
is certain to improve how you experience<br />
and explore destination <strong>Trinidad</strong> &<br />
<strong>Tobago</strong>. In Carnival 2017, the Ministry of<br />
Tourism launched a new travel app called<br />
GoTrinBago — the first of its kind for T&T.<br />
Increasingly, travellers conduct travel<br />
searches and book their vacations via digital<br />
channels. The GoTrinBago app is therefore<br />
filled with detailed information about<br />
the various tours, sites and attractions in<br />
both islands. Prominently featured in the<br />
Welcome<br />
app is our dynamic calendar of events,<br />
which can be found in the first category:<br />
Lime 365. A quick search through this category<br />
will show you that there is always<br />
something to do in <strong>Trinidad</strong> & <strong>Tobago</strong>! The<br />
app is available for download — in English<br />
and Spanish — in both the iOS App Store<br />
and the Google Play Store. Full German and<br />
French translations will be completed in<br />
the near future.<br />
The Government of <strong>Trinidad</strong> & <strong>Tobago</strong><br />
continues to focus on development of the<br />
sector. As such, in the coming year you can<br />
expect major upgrades to our sites and<br />
attractions. You can also look out for an<br />
increase in our room stock with the introduction<br />
of two 5-star hotels: The Brix Hotel<br />
in <strong>Trinidad</strong>, and Sandals in <strong>Tobago</strong>.<br />
Thank you for choosing <strong>Trinidad</strong> & <strong>Tobago</strong><br />
— two islands, two unique experiences.<br />
<strong>Tobago</strong> is clean, green, and serene,<br />
while <strong>Trinidad</strong>’s energy is not just from oil<br />
and gas, but from our people and our culture.<br />
Whatever travel experience you seek,<br />
you are certain to find it in Sweet Trinbago!<br />
– THE MINISTRY OF TOURISM<br />
COURTESY TDC<br />
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It’s complicated, as host Anthony<br />
Bourdain concluded on CNN’s Parts<br />
Unknown last year. <strong>Trinidad</strong>ians are<br />
every flavour of the Caribbean mixed<br />
up in one — and served with pepper.<br />
Playful, witty, warm, friendly, and colourful<br />
are just a few of the words used to describe<br />
Trinis. Home to rare and endangered species<br />
like the golden tree frog, and one of the<br />
most important global nesting sites of giant<br />
leatherback turtles, <strong>Trinidad</strong> is also the<br />
most industrialised island in the region. We<br />
are a hub for commerce, trade, shopping,<br />
entertainment, and ecological research. We<br />
are complex — spiritual yet sensual; a little<br />
crazy, but cool. The kind of people who can<br />
take old oil drums and hammer out an orchestra.<br />
Welcome to our magic<br />
Intro<br />
island.<br />
Credits<br />
Editor: Caroline Taylor<br />
Text: Nazma Muller<br />
Consulting editor: Jeremy Taylor<br />
Editorial & design assistant: Shelly-<br />
Ann Inniss<br />
Designer: Bridget van Dongen<br />
Consulting designer: Kevon Webster<br />
Business development: Denise Chin,<br />
Yuri Chin Choy, Evelyn Chung<br />
Production: Joanne Mendes,<br />
Jacqueline Smith<br />
General manager: Halcyon Salazar<br />
Ministry font courtesy Victor Tognollo<br />
/ Tognollo Hand Lettering<br />
Cover <strong>Trinidad</strong>: A ruby topaz hummingbird<br />
photographed in the Arima Valley.<br />
Photo: Wendell Stephen Jay Reyes<br />
Cover <strong>Tobago</strong>: Relaxing atop a glassbottom<br />
boat in the Nylon Pool. Photo:<br />
Tarique Eastman<br />
A publication of Media & Editorial<br />
Projects Ltd. (MEP)<br />
6 Prospect Avenue, Maraval,<br />
Port of Spain, <strong>Trinidad</strong> & <strong>Tobago</strong><br />
T: (868) 622-3821 | F: (868) 628-0639<br />
E: info@discovertnt.com<br />
W: discovertnt.com<br />
Connect with us online:<br />
RAPSO IMAGING<br />
10<br />
Guava skipper feeds on a rangoon vine<br />
discovertnt.com<br />
ISSN 1680-6166<br />
© 2017 Media & Editorial Projects (MEP)<br />
Ltd.<br />
All rights reserved. No part of this publication<br />
may be reproduced in any form<br />
whatsoever without the prior written<br />
consent of the publisher.
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COURTESY THE HYATT REGENCY<br />
Places<br />
to stay<br />
The high-end hotels feature<br />
sought-after amenities, like topclass<br />
restaurants and excellent<br />
pool, gym, business, and conference<br />
facilities. Downtown on the<br />
waterfront, the full-service Hyatt Regency<br />
<strong>Trinidad</strong> offers views of the Gulf of Paria;<br />
across the road is the Radisson, with its<br />
revolving restaurant at the top; and the<br />
Courtyard by Marriott is further west beside<br />
MovieTowne. The classy Kapok Hotel<br />
and iconic Hilton both overlook the Queen’s<br />
Park Savannah.<br />
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Down south, the leading options include<br />
Tradewinds, which also has monthly<br />
residency options, and the Royal Hotel,<br />
located just around the corner from the<br />
entrance to San Fernando Hill. In the<br />
east, there’s the Holiday Inn Express<br />
near the airport, and academic visitors<br />
appreciate the University Inn in St Augustine.<br />
Among the most popular guesthouses,<br />
B&Bs, and self-catering options<br />
are The Allamanda (Woodbrook); Crosswinds<br />
Villa Bed & Breakfast (Santa<br />
Cruz); Forty Winks Inn (Port of Spain);<br />
Culture Crossroads Inn (St James); and<br />
the Coblenz Inn and L’Orchidée Guesthouse<br />
(Cascade).
PARAMIN<br />
Spectacularly located villa and<br />
events venue perfect for<br />
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HIKING | BIRDWATCHING | GROUP CARNIVAL PACKAGES<br />
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Places to stay<br />
Quieter, greener options exist for nature lovers: Paradise<br />
Villas (Paramin); Asa Wright Nature Centre on the<br />
Arima–Blanchisseusse Road; Hacienda Jacana (Talparo);<br />
Petrea Place at the Pointe-à-Pierre Wildfowl Trust;<br />
Xanadu Resort (Lopinot); or Acajou, Le Grand Almandier,<br />
and Mt Plaisir near Grande Rivière.<br />
If you’re staying at hotels like the Hyatt, you’ll find<br />
an array of opportunities for pampering right on site.<br />
You can also find a variety of spa and beauty treatments<br />
at The Face & Body Clinic’s four branches (Port of Spain,<br />
San Fernando, Chaguanas, and in <strong>Tobago</strong>).<br />
CHRIS ANDERSON<br />
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All rooms and suites are air conditioned and outfitted with modern facilities for your every comfort<br />
including internet access and direct dial telephone. Enjoy a meal at our restaurant which specialises<br />
in a variety of tasty Caribbean and International cuisine, or just sit back and relax at our bar and<br />
lounge or around our swimming pool.<br />
Our new building includes conference facilities as well as an ideal settingfor wedding receptions,<br />
cocktail parties and other special functions. Other facilities include our complimentary gym and<br />
business centre with email and internet access, ideally suited for business or vacation.<br />
We also offer special group and long term rates.<br />
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The taming of the stew<br />
Dining out<br />
Foodies, pace yourself! At the Kapok Hotel in Maraval,<br />
savour the flavours of the Orient (Tiki Village), or<br />
brick-oven-baked pizza (Kava). Downtown at the Hyatt<br />
Regency <strong>Trinidad</strong>, the Waterfront restaurant serves up<br />
Caribbean and international cuisine.<br />
At MovieTowne, the options include authentic Japanese<br />
cuisine (Kaizan Sushi), international flavours (Zanzibar,<br />
Ruby Tuesday), Italian (Rizzoni’s), a Brazilian-American<br />
steakhouse (Texas de Brazil), or seafood and barbecue<br />
dishes (Trader Jack’s).<br />
On the Avenue (ie Ariapita Avenue) in Woodbrook, you<br />
can choose from Italian (Angelo’s), Caribbean creole<br />
(Veni Mangé), Chinese-Indian fusion (Hakka), or sushi<br />
(More Sushi). At One Woodbrook Place, vegans and vegetarians<br />
are catered to at Coloz (Caribbean) and Urban<br />
Oasis (international).<br />
In Maraval, head to Taste Vinoteca for small plates and<br />
vintage wine, or to Aioli and Joseph’s for a taste of the<br />
Mediterranean; while chef Khalid Mohammed creates<br />
modern, international dishes with a Caribbean twist at<br />
Chaud Restaurant in St Ann’s.<br />
COURTESY AIOLI RESTAURANT<br />
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Down south, sample Cuban cuisine at Arabian House<br />
(which also serves Arabian dishes, of course) or visit<br />
Atherly’s for creole and international flavours.<br />
Alcohol & spirits<br />
Make sure to sample our award-winning local<br />
rums (like Angostura 1919), and cocktails made<br />
with the world-famous Angostura Bitters.<br />
Angostura’s Queen’s Park<br />
Sizzle<br />
2 oz Angostura® 7 yr old dark rum<br />
1 oz Demerara simple syrup<br />
1 oz fresh lime juice<br />
12-14 mint leaves<br />
6-8 dashes Angostura® aromatic<br />
bitters<br />
The taming of the stew<br />
Method: Build in a highball glass.<br />
Muddle mint leaves in lime juice<br />
and simple syrup then fill glass<br />
with dry crushed ice. Pour rum<br />
over ice and swizzle well until<br />
glass is ice cold and frosted. Pack<br />
glass with more crushed ice and<br />
top with Angostura aromatic bitters.<br />
COURTESY ANGOSTURA<br />
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Cocoa is king again<br />
We happen to grow some of the finest cocoa beans<br />
(Trinitario), which are in demand by high-end chocolatiers<br />
in Europe. A cocoa renaissance has revived<br />
the industry and gourmet concoctions are being<br />
handmade with local fruits and flavours (like Cocobel’s<br />
sublime sorrel and dizzying ponche-à-crème).<br />
Other names to look out for: Cacique, Ortinola Great<br />
House, <strong>Trinidad</strong> & <strong>Tobago</strong> Fine Cocoa Company.<br />
RAPSO IMAGING<br />
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COURTESY TDC<br />
Top dishes to try in T&T<br />
*<br />
*<br />
Roti:<br />
*<br />
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Doubles: You are never more than<br />
100ft away from a doubles vendor<br />
in <strong>Trinidad</strong>, especially if you are in<br />
a city/town. Two fried barra and<br />
a spoonful of curried channa will<br />
change your life — especially with<br />
slight pepper, tamarind sauce,<br />
cucumbers and mango.<br />
There is no way you can visit<br />
<strong>Trinidad</strong> without having a roti. The<br />
trouble is deciding what to put in it.<br />
Pack some combination of curried<br />
chicken, beef, goat, duck, or conch<br />
inside this delicious wrap, together<br />
with bhagi (spinach), pumpkin,<br />
channa, potato, mango or bodi (string<br />
beans).<br />
Pelau: The national “rice and peas”<br />
dish, a one-pot wonder that is<br />
popular at house parties and to take<br />
on beach outings or excursions. It<br />
is usually cooked with pigeon peas<br />
and either chicken or beef. These<br />
days, however, the Trini gourmand<br />
has added all sorts of spins to the<br />
humble pelau — from the carnivore’s<br />
pork and lamb, to shitake mushrooms<br />
for the vegan. Usually served with<br />
cole slaw or a green salad and/or<br />
avocado.<br />
*<br />
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This page: pastelles are an integral part of a<br />
Trini Christmas<br />
Opposite: enjoy your curry in roti, doubles or<br />
as traditional masala, rice and vegetables<br />
Pineapple chow: Soaked in salt,<br />
black pepper, chadon beni, garlic and<br />
pepper, pineapple suddenly takes on<br />
a whole new personality — spicy<br />
yet sweet, like a Trini. We also make<br />
chow with mango, pommecythere,<br />
cherries, plums, carambola and even<br />
chennette.<br />
Corn soup: The saviour that sobers up<br />
many a tipsy party-goer, the trusty<br />
corn soup can usually be found at<br />
concerts and big events. This tasty<br />
veggie option is filled with dumplings,<br />
potato, carrots, and wedges of corn in<br />
a seasoned split pea broth.<br />
Stewed chicken & macaroni pie: The<br />
combination is deadly, sure to knock<br />
you out on a Sunday. The secret of<br />
the stew is in the seasoning, which<br />
the crafty Trini cook marinates the<br />
meat in overnight, while the cheesiness<br />
of the macaroni pie is directly<br />
proportional to its deliciousness.<br />
Pastelle: Wafer-thin casings of cornmeal<br />
are filled with seasoned meat<br />
(chicken, beef, lamb or pork), tuna or<br />
soya, with olives, capers and raisins,<br />
then cooked in a banana leaf and foil.
Hotter than fire<br />
Besides the best cocoa, we have some<br />
of the world’s hottest peppers. One, the<br />
Moruga Scorpion, was actually rated as<br />
the hottest in the world at one point. Our<br />
pepper sauces are not to be trifled with<br />
— one is even dubbed “mother in law”<br />
to describe its lethal power. The East Indians<br />
can also be credited with creating<br />
all manner of chutneys and sauces out<br />
of fruits like tamarind, pommecythere,<br />
and mango. A dollop of kuchela or mango<br />
amchar will liven up any dish.<br />
COURTESY COCONUT GROWERS’ ASSOCIATION/OLIVE AND MANGO<br />
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Vaughnette Bigford wows the<br />
crowd at North Coast Jazz<br />
(Blanchisseuse) last May. Her<br />
album, Born to Shine is available<br />
vaughnettebigford.com<br />
CAMILLE E LOWHAR<br />
24<br />
Arts &<br />
entertainment<br />
Music<br />
Music is in the Trini DNA. Tony and Grammy<br />
winning singer/actress Heather<br />
Headley; Grammy-winning singer/songwriter<br />
Angela Hunte; award-winning<br />
rap/hip-hop artist Nicki Minaj; and the<br />
late, celebrated performer Geoffrey<br />
Holder are all <strong>Trinidad</strong>ian. Of our indigenous<br />
music, these are among the most<br />
significant:<br />
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Calypso dates back to pre-Emancipation<br />
times, when slaves created songs as<br />
a form of praise or derisive social commentary,<br />
and rose to international popularity<br />
in the 1930s–50s. Soca — calypso’s<br />
up-tempo progeny born in the 70s and<br />
incorporating Indian musical influences<br />
— is the islands’ party music. Some hits<br />
have become international sensations.
Serious liming & partying<br />
If there’s one thing Trinis take seriously,<br />
it’s partying. Our reputation as the party<br />
animals of the Caribbean has been hardearned<br />
and we do our best to maintain<br />
it — at bars, rum shops, holes in the wall,<br />
and nightclubs.<br />
Some of the most popular haunts are:<br />
Woodbrook & “De Avenue”:<br />
51° Lounge; Coco Lounge;<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
Drink! Lounge & Bistro; More Vino;<br />
Smokey & Bunty’s; and Studio Lounge<br />
Around Port of Spain: HAZE; Katalyst;<br />
Luce; Old Havana Cigar Bar; Paprika;<br />
Queen’s Park Oval; Sails (Chaguaramas);<br />
Siam; Trotters; Tzar; Vas; and<br />
Zanzibar<br />
Heading east: Sandbaggers (Trincity);<br />
and Trevor’s Edge (St Augustine)<br />
Around San Fernando: Hi RPM; Privé;<br />
and Space La Nouba.<br />
COURTESY THE TRINIDAD & TOBAGO FILM FESTIVAL (TTFF)<br />
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Tassa is a drum-driven music central<br />
to the Muslim festival of Hosay, but<br />
the drums are fused with other musical<br />
forms and celebrations year-round.<br />
Parang is <strong>Trinidad</strong>’s Christmas music,<br />
with origins in Venezuela, featuring<br />
instruments like the cuatro, box bass,<br />
and maracas, and lyrics usually sung in<br />
Spanish.<br />
Indigenous music is only the beginning.<br />
Some of the most distinctive groups<br />
include fusion bands Freetown Collective,<br />
jointpop, and Kin Sound System;<br />
the rapso of 3canal; and local rock, and<br />
reggae, and jazz artists like Vaughnette<br />
Bigford. Groups like the Marionettes,<br />
Lydians, and Love Movement present<br />
western classical, opera, and Broadway,<br />
and are particularly popular at Christmas<br />
time.<br />
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Arts & entertainment<br />
Visual arts<br />
Visual artists abound in <strong>Trinidad</strong>, with galleries constantly exhibiting<br />
the many talented painters who call this island home — Horizons,<br />
Medulla, Soft Box, Y Art Gallery, Fine Art Gallery. The most famous<br />
expats are Peter Doig and Chris Ofili (Turner Prize winner), while local<br />
names that collectors fawn over include Michel-Jean Cazabon and<br />
Boscoe Holder. Other names to look out for: MP Alladin, Sybil Atteck,<br />
Ralph and the late Vera Baney, Pat Bishop, Isaiah Boodhoo, Edward<br />
Bowen, Carlisle Chang, Leroy Clarke, Chris Cozier, Ken Crichlow, Jackie<br />
Hinkson, Paul Llanos, Dermot Louison, Che Lovelace, Shastri Maharaj,<br />
Wendy Nanan, Lisa O’Connor, Shalini Seereeram, Peter Sheppard, Irénée<br />
Shaw, Sundiata, Jasmine Thomas-Girvan, and Noel Vaucrosson.<br />
Dance: all the right moves<br />
Any opportunity we get, Trinis will start dancing. We are credited with inventing<br />
the limbo, after all. Originally an event at wakes, it was popularised by our own Julia<br />
Edwards, a dance pioneer who appeared in films like Fire Down Below (1957) and<br />
toured the world in the 1960s.<br />
Another one of our dance legends, Beryl McBurnie, founder of the Little Carib Theatre,<br />
was the first person to promote Caribbean dance internationally, to acclaimed<br />
dancer Katherine Dunham among others. McBurnie gave Dunham private lessons in<br />
the rhythms and dances of the region, including ritual Yoruba chants from <strong>Trinidad</strong><br />
and dances such as the bongo — like the limbo, done at wakes — and kalinda, where<br />
stickfighting opponents dance (carre) in between exchanging blows.<br />
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Members of La<br />
Danse Caraibe<br />
perform at<br />
Queen’s Hall<br />
Keeping traditions<br />
alive (or creating new<br />
ones), local schools and<br />
dance companies present<br />
shows in a range of styles<br />
— regional folk, ballet,<br />
jazz, modern, and Indian<br />
classical, plus experimental<br />
multi-media productions<br />
— at many of the same<br />
venues as listed for theatre<br />
(next page).<br />
MARCUS ANTOINE<br />
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Theatre: our world onstage<br />
Productions of both local and foreign<br />
musicals, plays, and experimental performances<br />
are staged by commercial<br />
outfits like RS/RR Productions and Raymond<br />
Choo Kong Productions; theatre<br />
departments at the Universities of the<br />
West Indies (UWI) and <strong>Trinidad</strong> & <strong>Tobago</strong><br />
(UTT); and community theatre companies.<br />
There are stand-up comedy acts as well,<br />
plus a New Play Festival each October/<br />
November. Look for shows at Queen’s<br />
Hall, the National Academy for Performing<br />
Arts (NAPA), Central Bank, Little Carib,<br />
Big Black Box, <strong>Trinidad</strong> Theatre Workshop<br />
(Port of Spain, which was founded by Nobel<br />
Laureate Derek Walcott); CLR James<br />
Auditorium in the east; and Naparima<br />
Bowl and SAPA (the southern campus of<br />
the NAPA) in San Fernando.<br />
Film & cinema<br />
The film industry has long been earmarked<br />
for growth, and incentive and rebate<br />
programmes have made the islands<br />
an attractive location for filming. Work<br />
by locally-based and Caribbean diaspora<br />
artists are on show at the annual T&T<br />
Film Festival (see our Festivals section),<br />
and some get runs at local cinemas like<br />
MovieTowne and Caribbean Cinemas 8<br />
locations, and IMAX in Port of Spain. The<br />
UWI Campus Film Classics and European<br />
Film Festival (usually in May) host special<br />
screenings of regional and foreign<br />
indie films.<br />
This page: a still from the locally produced feature film<br />
Green Days by the River, adapted from the Michael<br />
Anthony novel of the same name<br />
Opposite centre: some of Barbara Jardine’s creations in<br />
Y Gallery’s “Jewel Box Spectrum” exhibition<br />
Arts & entertainment<br />
COURTESY TTFF<br />
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REISHA SEEBARANSINGH<br />
Fashion & jewellery<br />
Some of the top names to look out for are CLD,<br />
Ecliff Elie, Adrian Foster, House of Jaipur, Heather<br />
Jones, K2K, the Lush Kingdom, Meiling, Millhouse,<br />
Claudia Pegus, Pilar, The Cloth, and the Wadada<br />
Movement. For those looking for breath-taking<br />
hand-crafted jewellery in precious metals and<br />
stones, check Chris Anderson, Gillian Bishop, Janice<br />
Derrick, Akilah Jaramogi, Barbara Jardine, Rachel<br />
Rochford, Rachel Ross, and Jasmine Thomas-<br />
Girvan.<br />
Literature & books<br />
Look out for works (spanning fiction,<br />
plays, poetry, local history, culture, and<br />
the environment) by Nobel laureates VS<br />
Naipaul and Derek Walcott, plus Michael<br />
Anthony, Gerard Besson, Lloyd Best, Angelo<br />
Bissessarsingh, CLR James, John La<br />
Rose, Earl Lovelace, Ian MacDonald, Elizabeth<br />
Nunez, Judy Raymond, Monique<br />
Roffey, Sam Selvon, Amanda Smyth, Julian<br />
Kenny, and former prime minister<br />
Eric Williams at bookstores like Paper<br />
Based and Nigel R Khan; and books and<br />
magazines by publishers like Paria and<br />
MEP (our publishers, who produce books<br />
of Caribbean interest under the imprint<br />
Prospect Press).<br />
RAPSO IMAGING<br />
Non-stop shopping<br />
You can buy just about anything here: from distinctive locally hand-crafted souvenirs,<br />
to top international brands in fashion, jewellery, electronics, cars and gourmet food. If<br />
you can’t find it in one of the major malls (Long Circular, The Falls at West Mall, Trincity,<br />
Gulf City, Grand Bazaar, South Park Shopping Centre, Centre Pointe Mall, Centre City<br />
Mall), it’s sure to be in one of the many plazas (the older ones are Ellerslie Plaza, Price<br />
Plaza and MovieTowne Mall) or specialty shops. For local art, craft, food, fashion and<br />
accessories, check out the artisan markets (Green Market Santa Cruz, and UpMarket<br />
at the Woodbrook Youth Centre).<br />
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What’s all the fuss about?<br />
This is our annual street<br />
festival on the two days<br />
before Ash Wednesday;<br />
it takes over the capital,<br />
and all major towns. Indeed the whole<br />
country shuts down to party hearty (or<br />
enjoy two days off!).<br />
RAPSO IMAGING<br />
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How to survive it<br />
Stay hydrated (water, coconut water and sports drinks<br />
are your friends); wear earplugs, and stylish trainers<br />
for covering long distances; and have a mobile to call<br />
for a pick-up just in case of emergency (ie you get tired,<br />
drunk, or both).<br />
Playing a mas — pretty, or dirty<br />
It’s all about the costumes, the pageantry, and the<br />
fetes… This is an all-out explosion of the senses, beginning<br />
with the all-inclusive band launches in July —<br />
where the limitless food and drinks recall the hedonistic<br />
French masquerade balls in the 19th century which, in<br />
part, gave birth to this festival. But the highlight for<br />
many visitors is actually getting down and dirty in the<br />
carnival. Literally. This means playing J’Ouvert, from the<br />
wee hours of Carnival Monday morning, covered in mud,<br />
oil, chocolate or body paint, dancing through the streets<br />
of Port of Spain to the rhythm of our music.<br />
Opposite: a masquerader<br />
from K2K Alliance &<br />
Partners, three time Band of<br />
the Year (Medium)<br />
This page: a menacing blue<br />
devil intimidates the crowd<br />
Carnival<br />
ATIBA WILLIAMS<br />
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The music<br />
From the big costume bands launches, you will hear the latest soca hits being played<br />
on the radio and in the fetes. On Carnival Friday, the artistes compete for huge cash<br />
prizes by performing for the International Soca Monarch title. Calypso, meanwhile, is<br />
best heard at calypso tents, numerous competitions through the season, and at Dimanche<br />
Gras on Carnival Sunday.<br />
Carnival<br />
COURTESY TDC<br />
Steelpan<br />
This is the home of the only acoustic instrument invented<br />
in the 20th century, the steelpan. After the British colonial<br />
authorities banned the beating of African drums, the<br />
working class turned to the steel drums in which oil was<br />
stored. A highlight of the Carnival is Panorama, the battle<br />
of the steel orchestras for cash prizes and bragging<br />
rights. In the weeks before the finals, panyards across<br />
the country are filled with spectators and supporters<br />
listening to the players perfect their performance. The<br />
Queen’s Park Savanah’s Big Stage is the arena where<br />
the battle is fought the Saturday before Carnival.<br />
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RAPSO IMAGING<br />
Opposite: a steelpan<br />
This page: a masquerader<br />
from The Lost Tribe<br />
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A deya lit for Divali<br />
Festivals<br />
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Bocas Lit Fest<br />
With headliners like Man Booker Prize<br />
winner Marlon James from Jamaica and<br />
our own Earl Lovelace (Commonwealth<br />
Writers Prize winner), the festival brings<br />
writers from around the region and further<br />
afield for readings, performances,<br />
workshops, discussions, and film<br />
screenings. Founded in 2011, and usually<br />
staged over the last week of April, the<br />
festival also hosts events year-round.<br />
bocaslitfest.com<br />
COCO Dance festival<br />
Organised by the Contemporary Choreographers<br />
Collective, this annual festival<br />
(October) brings together dancers and<br />
choreographers from around the region<br />
and North America to collaborate with<br />
the local dance communities and students.<br />
Indian Arrival Day<br />
This national public holiday (30 May)<br />
commemorates the arrival of the first<br />
indentured labourers from India on the<br />
Fatel Razack in 1845. More than 140,000<br />
Indians were recruited over the next 70<br />
years to work <strong>Trinidad</strong>’s plantations after<br />
Emancipation. Communities re-enact<br />
the arrival on beaches, and there are cultural<br />
shows and performances; the Divali<br />
Nagar (near Chaguanas) hosts many key<br />
celebrations.<br />
Divali and Ramleela<br />
This Hindu festival that signifies the triumph<br />
of good over evil is celebrated<br />
by the whole country, and everyone is<br />
welcome at the nightly lighting of deyas<br />
(clay pots with coconut oil and a wick),<br />
on often intricate bamboo structures in<br />
parks nationwide. Some families and<br />
neighbourhoods go all out and the sight<br />
of thousands of deyas and coloured lights<br />
decorating homes is something to behold.<br />
Preparations and rituals typically last<br />
five days, but the main festival night coincides<br />
with the darkest, new moon night<br />
of the Hindu calendar, usually between<br />
mid-October and mid-November. You will<br />
see families dressed in fabulous saris and<br />
shalwar on Divali night to light deyas and<br />
perform puja (prayers) to Lakshmi, the<br />
goddess of fertility and prosperity. Afterwards,<br />
a feast with lots of curried vegetables<br />
and roti, with Indian sweets as<br />
dessert, must follow. Ramleela is a nineday,<br />
outdoor festival dramatising the life<br />
of Rama, with colourful costumes…and an<br />
explosive finale! The best-known productions<br />
are held in Couva and Felicity in the<br />
days leading up to Divali.<br />
RAPSO IMAGING<br />
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La Divina Pastora & Siparee Mai<br />
In a church of the same name in Siparia stands a dark-skinned statue of the Virgin<br />
Mary as La Divina Pastora (the Divine Shepherdess). Many miracles have been attributed<br />
to her by ardent devotees. On the Thursday night and Friday before Easter,<br />
Hindu pilgrims visit the church with acts of devotion — recognising her as Siparee<br />
Mai (mother of Siparia), Durga, and Lakshmi. Most of all, she is just “mother”. And for<br />
her feast day (the third Sunday after Easter), the “Miracle Mother” is decorated by<br />
Catholics with flowers, dressed in white, and processed through the streets, followed<br />
by celebrations open to all.<br />
NYLA SINGH<br />
This page: hands covered<br />
with colourful abir powder<br />
Opposite: the flambeaux<br />
street procession is a<br />
hallmark of Emancipation<br />
celebrations<br />
Phagwa (Holi)<br />
Each March, the Hindu community recognises the beginning<br />
of the Indian spring and the Hindu New Year in a<br />
joyful explosion of colour. Participants — Hindus and<br />
non-Hindus alike — spray each other with different<br />
shades of the vegetable dye, abir. The Aranguez Savannah<br />
is a popular venue for this celebration of birth and<br />
renewal.<br />
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MARIA NUNES<br />
Hosay<br />
The exquisitely beautiful tadjahs that<br />
represent the tomb of Hussain, grandson<br />
of the Prophet Muhammad, make<br />
this festival a hit every year. Five tadjahs<br />
(made of bamboo, wood, paper and<br />
tinsel) are paraded through the streets<br />
of St James — and other sites around<br />
the country like Cedros, Couva, Curepe,<br />
and Tunapuna — in commemoration of<br />
the martyrdom of Hussain in the year<br />
680 AD. These miniature temples are<br />
about 3–6m/10–30ft tall. The procession<br />
is accompanied by the beating of tassa<br />
drums and two standards in the shape<br />
of half-moons — one red symbolising<br />
the blood of Hussain that was shed at<br />
Karbala, and one green for the poisoning<br />
of his brother Hassan. Observances takes<br />
place over three nights (Flag Night, Small<br />
Hosay, Big Hosay).<br />
discovertnt.com<br />
Emancipation<br />
A public holiday is celebrated on 1 August<br />
to commemorate the end of slavery in the<br />
British colonies (1838), but events take<br />
place before and after the big day. Enjoy<br />
art exhibitions, film screenings, lectures,<br />
performances, religious observances,<br />
trade shows, and a vibrant street procession.<br />
The Lidj Yasu Omowale Emancipation<br />
Village at the Queen’s Park Savannah<br />
is the centre of the activities.<br />
Festivals<br />
37
Santa Rosa Festival and First<br />
People’s Heritage Week<br />
With origins in both <strong>Trinidad</strong>’s First Peoples<br />
and Catholic traditions, the Santa<br />
Rosa Festival in Arima commemorates<br />
the death of Santa Rosa de Lima, the Roman<br />
Catholic patron saint of the “New<br />
World”. It begins with the firing of a cannon<br />
on 1 August from Calvary Hill, and<br />
ends with a procession on the Sunday<br />
following her feast day (23 August). A<br />
statue of the saint is carried through the<br />
streets by members of the island’s Santa<br />
Rosa First Peoples Community (led by the<br />
Carib Queen), alongside Roman Catholics.<br />
In October, the Community celebrates<br />
First Peoples Heritage Week, which includes<br />
academic conferences, ritual<br />
smoke and water ceremonies, street processions,<br />
and more.<br />
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Festivals<br />
In 2017, a ceremony was held at the Red<br />
House to honour indigenous ancestors<br />
whose skeletal remains were found under<br />
its foundations<br />
T&T Film Festival<br />
Local filmmakers get a chance to showcase<br />
their work at the annual T&T Film<br />
Festival, which takes place the third<br />
week in September and is the second<br />
largest film festival in the region.<br />
A packed schedule of shorts, features<br />
and documentaries from home-grown<br />
talent are shown alongside work from<br />
regional filmmakers. Educational initiatives,<br />
development programmes, and<br />
community film screenings happen not<br />
just during the festival, but all year long.<br />
ttfilmfestival.com<br />
MARIA NUNES
Golf<br />
<strong>Trinidad</strong> has three 18-hole courses (St<br />
Andrew’s Golf Club in Moka (pictured);<br />
Millennium Lakes in Trincity; and<br />
Petrotrin’s Pointe-à-Pierre Golf Club),<br />
and three nine-hole courses (Chaguaramas;<br />
Usine St Madeleine; and Brechin<br />
Castle in Caroni). T&T Golf Association:<br />
629-7127<br />
CHRIS ANDERSON<br />
Sports<br />
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Athletics<br />
The island has a long history of excelling<br />
at athletics. Local and international stars<br />
meet in action at the annual Hampton<br />
Games. National Association of Athletics<br />
Administrations of T&T: 679-3276<br />
Cricket<br />
The Queen’s Park Oval (Port of Spain) and<br />
the new stadium at the Brian Lara Cricket<br />
Academy (Tarouba) host the nation’s<br />
Twenty/20, one-day, and Test matches.<br />
T&T Cricket Board: 636-1577<br />
Sports<br />
Cycling & mountain biking<br />
The Easter International Grand Prix and<br />
National Championships are highlights<br />
of the racing calendar. A new world-class<br />
National Cycling Velodrome (Couva)<br />
opened in 2016; the Arima Velodrome<br />
is another focal point. Mountain bikers<br />
head to Chaguaramas, Santa Cruz, and<br />
the northern range. T&T Cycling Federation:<br />
679-8823<br />
Dragon boat racing<br />
This sport took off in <strong>Trinidad</strong> 10 years ago<br />
for Chinese Bicentennial celebrations; the<br />
national team since has won several<br />
medals at the World Championships. Regattas<br />
are organised by the T&T Dragon<br />
Boat Federation, mainly in Chaguaramas<br />
(<strong>Trinidad</strong>) and Pigeon Point (<strong>Tobago</strong>).<br />
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RAPSO IMAGING<br />
Motor sports<br />
Rally and drag racing are both popular,<br />
with locations in south and central <strong>Trinidad</strong><br />
like Couva and Preysal. Events are<br />
hosted by the T&T Rally Club (like the<br />
Championship Series and International<br />
Rally) and T&T United Drag Racing Association.<br />
discovertnt.com<br />
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Football (soccer)<br />
T&T has hosted the FIFA World (men’s)<br />
Under-17 championships and Women’s<br />
Under-17 world championships. It was<br />
also the smallest nation, until Iceland<br />
in 2017, to qualify for the World Cup finals<br />
(2006). The Hasely Crawford (Port<br />
of Spain), Manny Ramjohn (Marabella),<br />
Larry Gomes (Arima), Ato Boldon (Couva),<br />
and Marvin Lee (Tunapuna) stadia are<br />
the main venues. T&T Football Federation<br />
(TTFF): 623-9500<br />
Swimming & aquatics<br />
A new world-class National Aquatics Centre<br />
(Couva) opened in 2016. It is intended<br />
to be a hub for local sports including water<br />
polo and diving, and to attract international<br />
swim events as part of a sports<br />
tourism thrust. Public swimming pools<br />
are also located in Port of Spain (Flying<br />
Fish), Tunapuna (Centre of Excellence),<br />
St Joseph (La Joya), Diego Martin, San<br />
Fernando (Cocoyea), Couva and Siparia.<br />
Amateur Swimming Association: 643-2813<br />
Tennis<br />
The recently completed National Tennis<br />
Complex (Tacarigua) is the centrepiece<br />
of the sport, while there are also public<br />
courts at Nelson Mandela Park (St Clair),<br />
and courts for hourly rental at the <strong>Trinidad</strong><br />
Country Club (Maraval) and some<br />
hotels. T&T Tennis Association: 625-3030<br />
Sports<br />
Sporting heroes<br />
*<br />
Stephen Ames: former world top<br />
25 golfer with four major PGA<br />
titles, including victory over Tiger<br />
Woods at the Players Championship<br />
(2006)<br />
Ato Boldon: four-time Olympic<br />
medallist (2 silver, 2 bronze for<br />
100m and 200m, 1996 and 2000),<br />
and 200m World Championship<br />
gold medallist (1997). Now a commentator<br />
with NBC in the US<br />
George Bovell III: nation’s first<br />
Olympic medallist in swimming<br />
(2004 bronze in 200m individual<br />
medley), among several other<br />
international medals<br />
Hasely Crawford: nation’s first<br />
Olympic gold medallist, winning<br />
men’s 100m (1976)<br />
Brian Lara: star cricketer and<br />
world record holder for the highest<br />
Test match score (400 not<br />
out, 2004) and highest first class<br />
score (501 not out, 1994)<br />
Jereem Richards: winner of<br />
4x400m relay bronze at 2012<br />
World Indoor Championships; and<br />
both bronze (200m) and gold<br />
(4x400 relay) medals at the 2017<br />
World Championships<br />
Keshorn Walcott: two-time Olympic<br />
medallist (gold in 2012, bronze<br />
in 2016). He’s the youngest male<br />
athlete (and the first black one)<br />
to win gold in javelin; the first<br />
individual track and field athlete<br />
ever to win World Junior and<br />
Olympic titles in the same year;<br />
and he holds the North, Central<br />
American and Caribbean junior<br />
record<br />
Rodney Wilkes: nation’s first<br />
Olympic medallist (weightlifting<br />
silver in 1948, bronze in 1952).<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
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ALTIN OSMANAJ/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM<br />
Lopinot: green days by the river<br />
The river lime is a family tradition,<br />
especially for the East Indian<br />
community. And no river lime is<br />
complete without a duck or two<br />
being curried and served with<br />
rice or roti. On weekends and public holidays,<br />
the banks of the Caura and Lopinot<br />
rivers are lined with bubbling pots.<br />
A popular hangout for locals on weekends<br />
and holidays, the Lopinot Historical<br />
Complex was once a sprawling cocoa estate<br />
that belonged to a French count (the<br />
Compte de Lopinot). He fled the Haitian<br />
Revolution in 1800 and set up camp here<br />
(there are still ghost stories about him<br />
riding his horse on full moon nights). This<br />
community of farmers can trace their<br />
roots back to the First Peoples, French,<br />
discovertnt.com<br />
Beaches<br />
& rivers<br />
and Spaniards. At Christmas, the Spanish<br />
link is celebrated with a parang festival.<br />
Lopinot’s river meanders for miles, with<br />
numerous pools along the way where<br />
one can wallow in the cold, clear water<br />
beneath the forest canopy. A small museum<br />
and historical complex showcase<br />
artefacts from the days of slavery. Opposite<br />
the playing field, Café Mariposa<br />
serves cocoa ice cream and other cocoainspired<br />
dishes, with a guesthouse for<br />
nature lovers who want to explore the<br />
nearby caves or go birdwatching.<br />
43
Beach bummin’<br />
While <strong>Tobago</strong>’s beaches are calm, <strong>Trinidad</strong>’s<br />
waters tend to be a little more “eventful”,<br />
with bigger, more powerful waves and rugged<br />
cliffs or dramatic mountain backdrops.<br />
There’s the popular Maracas Beach (currently<br />
undergoing a facelift), the spot for bake and shark<br />
(although the sharks are now endangered) smothered in<br />
sauces and topped with pineapple, cucumbers, tomato, and<br />
lettuce. More sustainable alternatives to shark include flying<br />
fish, mahi mahi, squid/calamari, carite, tilapia, or lionfish.<br />
Sunrise at the ever-popular Maracas beach<br />
CHRIS ANDERSON<br />
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Beaches<br />
& rivers<br />
discovertnt.com<br />
45
COURTESY CREDIT TDC<br />
The Nariva river meets the sea near<br />
Manzanilla<br />
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Beaches<br />
& rivers<br />
Next along the coast is the wide expanse<br />
of Tyrico Bay, a favourite with<br />
families, as is Las Cuevas, the next beauty<br />
along the north coast. The caves here<br />
are part of the attraction; there’s also a<br />
car park, changing facilities and snack<br />
bar. Walk with insect repellent for the<br />
sand flies and mosquitoes.<br />
The long and rugged stretch of beach<br />
at Blanchisseuse is another favourite<br />
along the north coast, especially for surfers.<br />
At the end of the bay, the Marianne<br />
River is a prime spot for kayaking. Salybia<br />
and Sans Souci in the northeast are<br />
also magnets for surfers.<br />
In the south, Mayaro (a very long<br />
beach that’s usually covered in chip<br />
chip, a tiny mollusk that can be cooked)<br />
and Quinam are the most frequented,<br />
while the coconut tree-lined Manzanilla<br />
stretches for miles up the east coast.<br />
The west coast boasts warm waters and<br />
white sand at Vessigny and Granville.
Over the top: Saut d’Eau<br />
The trek to Saut d’Eau beach is long and difficult, but<br />
worth it. The only way to get there is through Paramin<br />
and down the side of the mountain via a dirt path.<br />
You can take a jeep or walk to the top of the mountain<br />
known as Barre La Vigie (patois for lookout point or<br />
crow’s nest), which reaches 550m/1,800ft. Saut d’Eau<br />
Beach is directly across from Saut d’Eau Island, a sanctuary<br />
for pelicans and rare bird species. The clear, cool<br />
waters of the bay are the perfect pick-me-up after the<br />
hike. A 9m/30ft waterfall cascades into the sea, with<br />
others nearby. The return climb to the summit is even<br />
more testing, but the views from the top, like the one<br />
pictured here, will make you feel like a champion when<br />
you get there.<br />
CHRIS ANDERSON<br />
Outdoor<br />
adventures<br />
discovertnt.com<br />
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The great Icacos lagoon is bisected by<br />
a narrow road leading to the CGA Ltd’s<br />
coconut estate and further to the town<br />
of Icacos<br />
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Hiking tips<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
Only go with a reputable guide, know your limits, and always stay with your<br />
group<br />
Always carry water, food and first aid supplies, and some dry clothes, in a<br />
waterproof bag<br />
Black clothing is the hottest, and attracts mosquitoes. Wear long trousers for<br />
bush treks, and comfortable, waterproof shoes with good grip — no open-toed<br />
sandals<br />
And as the saying goes: take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints…!<br />
COURTESY COCONUT GROWERS’ ASSOCIATION<br />
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Like bats out of hell: Tamana Caves<br />
The Tamana Bat Caves in the Central Range are home to an estimated 1.5 million bats.<br />
One for every Trini, with extras. Mt Tamana itself (313m/1,009ft) was revered as a sacred<br />
mountain by the Guarahoons (one of the First Peoples). Eleven of the 67 species<br />
of the island’s nocturnal bats can be found in these caves, including vampire, fruit, and<br />
insect bats. At dusk, they all stream out of the caves en masse to feed. Thousands zip<br />
past you per second. It’s a fairly easy hike through old coffee estates; wear long pants<br />
and sneakers.<br />
PIERSON HILL<br />
Go for gold: El Tucuche<br />
The rare golden tree frog is found only in<br />
two places: Venezuela and <strong>Trinidad</strong>. Locally<br />
you can find them in three remote<br />
spots: the summits of El Tucuche, Aripo,<br />
and Morne Bleu Ridge in the Northern<br />
Range. According to the International<br />
Union for Conservation of Nature, this<br />
endemic species is critically endangered<br />
due to its severely restricted habitat<br />
and fragmented distribution in the<br />
montane forest and elfin woodlands. At<br />
937m/3,072ft, the peak of El Tucuche is<br />
a serious hike with potential hazards,<br />
especially in the rainy season. But the<br />
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The rare golden tree frog is only found at<br />
the summits of our highest peaks<br />
views are stunning (from both of its<br />
peaks!). And you might just spot a golden<br />
tree frog hiding in a giant bromeliad. Plus<br />
there are toucans, mountain crabs, howler<br />
monkeys, cicadas, hummingbirds, and<br />
other rare species.<br />
Recommended starting time: 7am<br />
Distance: 6.5km/4 miles each way<br />
Duration: 8–12 hours return<br />
Level of difficulty: Strenuous<br />
Hiking boots or trail shoes recommended.<br />
Be prepared for rain, so use waterproof<br />
hiking sacks or bags, plus an extra set of<br />
clothes and a towel for afterwards.
Waterfalls & more popular hikes<br />
The Northern Range is full of glorious waterfalls for those willing to walk a<br />
mile or two into the forest. Some of the most spectacular are Maracas, Paria,<br />
Avocat, Rincon and Three Pools. In the west, there is Edith Falls (see our<br />
Chaguaramas section), and in the east, Rampanalgas and Rio Seco. Here’s<br />
how to get to some of them.<br />
Fondes Amandes (St Ann’s): The Community Reforestation Project provides<br />
forest tours that range from quick and gentle to more intermediate<br />
*<br />
Madamas Bay (north coast): It’ll take you roughly 3 hours from Matelot<br />
* or 5 hours from Blanchisseuse. A beach, river, waterfall, and turtles (in<br />
season) await. Intense<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
Maracas Falls (Northern Range): 30–45 minute trek; <strong>Trinidad</strong>’s tallest<br />
waterfall (91m/299ft). Gentle<br />
Paria Bay (north coast): It’ll take you roughly 2 hours from Blanchisseuse<br />
to Turtle Rock then Cathedral Rock/Paria Arch. A pristine white<br />
sand beach, turtles (in season), and nearby waterfall are your reward.<br />
Also accessible via Brasso Seco. Intermediate<br />
Rio Seco Falls (Salybia): Part of the Matura National Park, a 45–60 minute<br />
hike brings you to the falls, and a natural swimming pool. Gentle<br />
Turure Water Steps (Cumaca): after about 60 minutes, you’ll be bathing<br />
in the pools at these unique natural limestone “steps”. Intermediate<br />
Outdoor adventures<br />
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RAPSO IMAGING<br />
Before it was an island, <strong>Trinidad</strong> was part of the South<br />
American mainland, so its environment is both Caribbean<br />
and continental. Thousands of species thrive in the<br />
lush Northern and Central Ranges, while the south is<br />
continually invaded by animals washed down from the<br />
Orinoco in Venezuela, or in transit, as in the case of migratory birds.<br />
During the rainy season, the place seethes with life — flowers in<br />
sidewalks, bromeliads on electricity wires, birds everywhere. This<br />
tiny island (a mere 60km by 80km) is host to the greatest number<br />
of species for its size in the West Indies: 108 species of mammals; a<br />
growing number of recorded bird species (well over 400); 55 reptiles;<br />
25 amphibians; and 617 butterflies. Few places in the world<br />
match <strong>Trinidad</strong> for biodiversity.<br />
Turtle watching<br />
T&T is home to five of the seven species of sea turtles found globally.<br />
All are on the International Union for Conservation of Nature<br />
(IUCN) Red List — the vulnerable leatherback and olive ridley; the<br />
endangered green and loggerhead; and the critically endangered<br />
hawksbill. The leatherback, hawksbill, and green turtle nest on<br />
Eco experiences: seeing green<br />
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RAPSO IMAGING<br />
This page: a giant leatherback turtle makes her<br />
way back to sea after nesting at Las Cuevas<br />
Opposite: green turtles can often be seen on sea<br />
grass beds where they feed<br />
beaches, while the loggerhead and olive ridley are occasionally<br />
sighted at sea.<br />
<strong>Trinidad</strong> is one of the few places in the Caribbean<br />
where the giant female leatherback turtle practises<br />
the timeless “family tradition” of returning to the place<br />
where she was born to nest. After swimming through<br />
the rough waves of the Atlantic, she makes her way up<br />
the beach, laboriously digs a hole with her flippers into<br />
which she lays hundreds of eggs, and then “backfills” it<br />
before returning to the sea to mate again.<br />
As the second largest leatherback nesting site in<br />
the world, <strong>Trinidad</strong> receives more than 6,000 of these<br />
heavyweights (up to 2,000lb) every year, generally<br />
1 March–31 August. You can see them on any north or<br />
east coast beach, especially Matura and Grande Rivière<br />
(where you can see up to 50 a night, and even be lucky<br />
enough to spot the endangered blue-throated pipingguan<br />
or pawi bird). About two months later, the clutch<br />
of babies emerge from the sand and head for the open<br />
ocean. Peak season for seeing hatchlings is June–August.<br />
Conservation efforts in Matura and Grande Rivière<br />
require that permits be purchased to visit nesting sites.<br />
These can be arranged through authorised tour guides<br />
(Nature Seekers: 668-7337, Grande Rivière Nature Tour<br />
Guide Association: 670-4257/469-1288), local accommodation,<br />
or directly at Forestry Division offices.<br />
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Tips<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
Don’t use light or<br />
flash photography,<br />
which can disorient<br />
turtles; only infrared<br />
light should be used<br />
Do not approach or<br />
touch turtles, and<br />
stay out of their<br />
field of vision. Keep<br />
movements and<br />
noise to a minimum<br />
Campfires, driving,<br />
staking any object<br />
(like umbrellas),<br />
and building sandcastles<br />
on nesting<br />
beaches can destroy<br />
nests and kill hatchlings<br />
hidden in the<br />
sand<br />
Litter can trap<br />
hatchlings, and<br />
suffocate turtles if it<br />
enters the sea (they<br />
mistake plastic<br />
bags for jellyfish).<br />
53
A birder’s guide<br />
<strong>Trinidad</strong> is blessed with over 400 recorded bird<br />
species — among the top 10 countries in the<br />
world for the number of species per square mile.<br />
Peak birding season is November–May, but<br />
there’s lots to see year-round. Ornithologists<br />
flock here because of the diversity and accessibility of the<br />
birds. You can stay on the road and easily record 60 species<br />
on a single outing. Here’s where you’ll want to head.<br />
Hollis Dam<br />
Here in the hills of north <strong>Trinidad</strong>, spot swallow-tailed<br />
kites, golden-headed manakins, bay-headed tanager,<br />
blue-headed parrot, the rare blue and yellow macaw.<br />
The Heights of Aripo<br />
Three or four valleys east of the Arima–Blanchisseuse<br />
Road, leading to the highest point on the island (El Cerro<br />
del Aripo), you will find the blue-headed parrot, the<br />
grey-headed kite and the squirrel cuckoo, and rare visiting<br />
warblers such as the bay-breasted, black-throated<br />
blue, and blackpoll warblers.<br />
CHRIS ANDERSON<br />
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CHRIS ANDERSON<br />
Asa Wright Nature Centre<br />
This 1,500-acre sanctuary in the Arima<br />
Valley was one of the first nature centres<br />
to be set up in the Caribbean, offering a<br />
chance to see dozens of hummingbirds,<br />
tanagers, honeycreepers, and bananaquits<br />
feeding up close. The main centre<br />
and guesthouse are located on a former<br />
cocoa-coffee-citrus plantation. Trails<br />
through the rain forest bring you close<br />
to all sorts of wildlife, from trapdoor<br />
spiders and woodpeckers to blue emperor<br />
(morpho) butterflies. The long dry<br />
season (January–May) is when the most<br />
striking vegetation is in bloom, as well as<br />
in the shorter dry season (Petit Carême)<br />
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This page: the rare oilbird is the only nocturnal, fruiteating<br />
bird in the world. Asa Wright has the country’s<br />
most accessible colony of them, while Cumaca<br />
(pictured) has the country’s largest<br />
Opposite: blue and yellow macaws were successfully<br />
re-introduced to <strong>Trinidad</strong> in the early 2000s after<br />
being extirpated by habitat loss and the pet trade<br />
in October. Open 9am–5pm for day visits,<br />
with guided walks (1.5hrs) at 10:30am<br />
and 1:30pm. There are numerous waterfalls<br />
and caves nearby, and an overnight<br />
stay gives you the chance to see rare oilbirds.<br />
Reservations required (667-4655).<br />
Entrance fee for non-residents of T&T:<br />
adults US$10; children 12 years and under<br />
US$6. Residents: adults TT$30; children<br />
TT$15<br />
55
WENDELL STEPHEN JAY REYES<br />
RAPSO IMAGING<br />
Top left: Green honeycreeper at Asa Wright<br />
Top right: Amethyst woodstar hummingbird at Yerette<br />
(this tiny bird first appeared in <strong>Trinidad</strong> in 2015)<br />
Bottom: Black-throated mango hummingbird<br />
RAPSO IMAGING<br />
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This picture: Scarlet ibis (<strong>Trinidad</strong>’s<br />
national bird) in the Caroni Bird Sanctuary<br />
Below: White-tailed trogons at Asa Wright<br />
RAPSO IMAGING<br />
RAPSO IMAGING<br />
For the birders<br />
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A birder’s guide<br />
Yerette, Home of the Hummingbird<br />
For a more intimate experience of the hummingbird,<br />
spend a couple of hours at the home of Theo and Gloria<br />
Ferguson in Maracas, St Joseph. Their garden has<br />
a spectacular view of the Northern Range. Sit on the<br />
porch and enjoy juices, meals and pastries for breakfast,<br />
lunch or afternoon tea alongside purple honeycreepers<br />
and hummingbirds. Dozens of hummingbirds<br />
flit by, some a few inches away, as they sip from dozens<br />
of feeders and flowers. Theo is a knowledgeable<br />
host, with a collection of photos for sale, and a slide<br />
show about the tiny acrobats. 663-2623, yerettett.com<br />
This page: Long-billed starthroat hummingbird<br />
Opposite: an American flamingo flies over Caroni<br />
Swamp<br />
RAPSO IMAGING<br />
Pointe-à-Pierre Wildfowl Trust<br />
This is an oasis of ponds surrounded by green forest, set within the sprawling grounds<br />
of an oil refinery complex. It’s home to rare ducks, water lilies and lotus blossoms, cormorants,<br />
caimans, parakeets and peacocks. Researchers and birders can learn about<br />
efforts to reintroduce endangered wetland birds to their natural habitat. Small boats<br />
take you out on the two ponds, where you can photograph the whistling tree duck,<br />
kiskidee, purple gallinule, scarlet ibis, blue and gold macaw, wild muscovy duck, green<br />
heron, yellow-hooded blackbird, pied water tyrant, cardinal, ringed kingfisher, black<br />
skimmer, grey hawk, and the snakebird (or anhinga). A boardwalk along the first pond<br />
can be accessed by wheelchairs and baby strollers. An on-site learning centre houses a<br />
small First Peoples museum, and there is a full-service guesthouse. Advance bookings<br />
required: 658-4200 ext 2512, papwildfowltrust.org<br />
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Bush Bush Sanctuary and Nariva Swamp<br />
Turn off the Manzanilla main road at Kernahan Trace and within 15 minutes be in<br />
full-on swampland, complete with capuchin and red howler monkeys, blue and gold<br />
macaws, and toucans. Bush Bush is a protected island within the largest freshwater<br />
wetland in the Caribbean. Boating and kayaking are only possible in the rainy season.<br />
It’s imperative to go with a tour guide who will arrange permits from the Forestry Division<br />
(being without a permit in the reserve is punishable by a fine). Make sure to wear<br />
insect repellent, long pants, and light colours.<br />
Winston Nanan Caroni Bird Sanctuary<br />
A must on every birder’s list, this is<br />
the protected breeding grounds of the<br />
national bird, the scarlet ibis. Now renamed<br />
in honour of the veteran guide<br />
and conservationist, it’s located off the<br />
north-south highway a few miles outside<br />
of Port of Spain and just west of the<br />
airport. You will find the boats parked up<br />
and waiting (adults TT$50, children $35);<br />
most leave at 4pm. Within minutes the<br />
sound of cars fades and you enter the<br />
eerie silence of the swamp. Mangrove<br />
channels create a dramatic backdrop for<br />
the 100 species of birds that make their<br />
home here alongside snakes (boas) in<br />
trees, crabs and snails. Species spotted<br />
include the straight-billed woodcreeper,<br />
red-capped cardinal, juvenile night heron,<br />
pigmy kingfisher, tropical screechowl,<br />
common potoo, flamingo, osprey,<br />
great grey heron, and the great egret. At<br />
dusk the sky is filled with streaks of red<br />
as hundreds of scarlet ibis return to roost<br />
in trees on an island in the middle of the<br />
swamp. For the serious birder, a private<br />
tour can be arranged with a reputable<br />
guide. 755-7826, caronibirdsanctuary.com<br />
RAPSO IMAGING<br />
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Architecture & built heritage<br />
KAZIM DANIEL<br />
The island’s history and its once extraordinary<br />
wealth are built into its varied architecture.<br />
One former great house from the days of sugar<br />
and cocoa plantations is the Boissiere Estate<br />
House in Maraval, now the <strong>Trinidad</strong> Country<br />
Club, and you’ll find mansions and public buildings in the<br />
popular early 19th-century neo-classical style like the<br />
Port of Spain General Hospital. Governor Ralph Woodford<br />
also sponsored the construction of the Cathedral of<br />
the Immaculate Conception (built 1816–1832) on Independence<br />
Square, and the Holy Trinity Cathedral on Woodford<br />
Square (completed 1818 in the Gothic Revival style);<br />
nearby is the Red House, once the seat of our parliament<br />
and now undergoing restoration works. The 20th century<br />
brought various contemporary architectural styles, including<br />
art deco (Treasury Building on Independence Square),<br />
and later the modernist movement and post-modern architecture.<br />
Here are some treasured buildings and sites,<br />
with much to recommend them beyond their architecture.<br />
The Christ the Redeemer statue at Mount St Benedict<br />
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Mount St Benedict<br />
This 600-acre property has a commanding<br />
view of the central plains from its<br />
perch at 245m/800ft in the Northern<br />
Range; you can see as far south as San<br />
Fernando. Founded in 1912, it is the oldest<br />
Benedictine monastery in the Caribbean.<br />
Early morning mass is still a must<br />
for Catholic devotees, as is afternoon tea<br />
on a Sunday at its cosy tea house. You<br />
can have scones and coffee while you admire<br />
the mountains from the back porch,<br />
where feeders attract hummingbirds at<br />
close range. The complex is a quiet retreat<br />
for birders and walkers, but be sure<br />
to go on the trails in groups or with a<br />
guide.<br />
RAPSO IMAGING<br />
The Temple in the Sea at Waterloo<br />
A monument to the human spirit, this Hindu mandir (pictured above) stands on the<br />
edge of the Gulf of Paria, on mudflats jutting out into the sea. Sewdass Sadhu — an<br />
indentured immigrant sugar worker from India — used to save his meagre wages and<br />
return to India every few years to worship at the holy shrines there. As the cost of the<br />
pilgrimage became too much, he decided to build a temple in <strong>Trinidad</strong> instead. Banned<br />
from building a temple on land by the British colonial authorities, he spent many years<br />
laboriously carrying bricks, cement and sand to the unused swampland offshore, laying<br />
the foundation for what would become a beautiful beacon for all. After he died in<br />
1970, it was left in the hands of the sea, until 1994 when work began on restoring his<br />
temple. A year later it was finally reopened, and a statue of him now stands watch<br />
over his work of the heart.<br />
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RAPSO IMAGING<br />
Hanuman Murti (statue) & Dattatreya Yoga Centre<br />
Donated by an Indian swami, this 26m/85ft statue of Hanuman (the Hindu monkey god<br />
of strength) is reputed to be the tallest of its kind outside India. It towers above the<br />
adjoining Dattatreya Yoga Centre in Carapachaima.<br />
The “Magnificent Seven”<br />
These colonial-era homes on the northwestern edge of the Queen’s Park Savannah are<br />
in varying degrees of repair and use, reflecting their diverse histories and ownership.<br />
From south to north: Queen’s Royal College (1904, boys’ secondary school); Hayes<br />
Court (1910, Anglican Bishop’s residence); Milles Fleurs (1904, law association headquarters);<br />
Roomor (1904, private home); the Roman Catholic Archbishop’s residence<br />
(1903); Whitehall (1907); and Killarney or Stollmeyer’s Castle (1904).<br />
Stollmeyer’s Castle was built in 1904<br />
Architecture & built heritage<br />
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Chaguaramas<br />
The Chaguaramas National Heritage Park in <strong>Trinidad</strong>’s northwestern peninsula is just<br />
20 minutes from Port of Spain (with no traffic, of which there is a lot on weekends and<br />
public holidays).<br />
Home to the wondrous Tucker Valley, hikers, bikers, explorers, bird watchers,<br />
hashers, archers, and golfers all have their place in “Chag”, as it’s affectionately called.<br />
In addition to the emerald green waters of popular Macqueripe Bay (which is scheduled<br />
for upgrade works in <strong>2018</strong>), the lush rain forests of the valley are crisscrossed<br />
with nature trails. Howler monkeys can be heard in the forest canopy and pairs of<br />
green parrots often pass. The Covigne River trail passes through nutmeg groves and<br />
along a tributary of the Cuesa River uphill through a gorge. Along the way, you will<br />
pass abandoned cocoa, coffee, and nutmeg plantations. The trail ends at a waterfall<br />
with a plunge pool.<br />
Easy day trips<br />
Edith Falls is located in an<br />
abandoned cocoa estate<br />
nestled against the eastern<br />
side of Morne Catherine<br />
and overlooking<br />
the golf course. A fairly<br />
gentle hike, you will see<br />
stands of majestic bamboo,<br />
heliconias, rubber<br />
trees and fishtail palms,<br />
and hear red howler monkeys<br />
(pictured) in the<br />
forest canopy along the<br />
trail. If you decide to hike<br />
on your own, inform the<br />
Chaguaramas Development<br />
Authority (225-4232,<br />
chaguaramas.com)<br />
Recent development<br />
in Chag is not without<br />
controversy for those<br />
who fiercely want to<br />
preserve the natural environment,<br />
rustic charm,<br />
and tranquillity of this<br />
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CHRIS ANDERSON<br />
63
treasured heritage park. But that hasn’t<br />
deterred those who enjoy the area’s latest<br />
man-made attractions, including the<br />
1,400ft of beachfront walkway known as<br />
the Boardwalk; gazebos are available for<br />
private get-togethers, while pedal-boat<br />
rides will keep the kids happy — as will<br />
the Five Islands Waterpark, and Safari<br />
Eco Park.<br />
Zip-lining<br />
With views of both forest and sea, ZIP-ITT<br />
has seven lines (one passes over Macqueripe<br />
Beach) and five canopy walks<br />
(net bridges) among the trees of Tucker<br />
Valley, where you might spot a howler<br />
monkey or two as you zip by. <br />
303-7755<br />
Down de Islands (DDI)<br />
Just off the northwest coast of <strong>Trinidad</strong>,<br />
several smaller islands have become beloved<br />
escapes. Many wealthy families<br />
have holiday homes here. Pirogues and<br />
fishing boats leave from marinas along<br />
the coastline, where hundreds of yachts<br />
and speed boats are stored.<br />
In the distance you can see mountains<br />
— the nearby coastline of Venezuela.<br />
There are the Five Islands (Caledonia,<br />
Craig, Lenagan, Rock and Nelson, which<br />
was where East Indian immigrants were<br />
quarantined when they arrived by boat);<br />
Diego Islands (Carrera, a prison island,<br />
and Cronstadt); Gaspar Grande; Gasparilo<br />
Island (aka Centipede); Monos; Huevos;<br />
and Chacachacare (which was once a<br />
leper colony).<br />
These islands were originally the<br />
ceremonial grounds of the First Peoples.<br />
They were later occupied by the Spanish.<br />
Chacachacare has saltwater ponds,<br />
ruins and a still-functioning lighthouse.<br />
On Gaspar Grande, the jetty at Point Baleine<br />
was once a whaling station. This is<br />
the home of the underground Gasparee<br />
caves, which are accessed via a staircase.<br />
Here you will find stalagmites and a still<br />
pool known as the Blue Grotto, with its<br />
“sunroof”.<br />
RAPSO IMAGING<br />
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CHRIS ANDERSON<br />
Family<br />
friendly<br />
fun<br />
Queen’s Park Savannah<br />
This 260-acre park holds a very special<br />
place in the Trini heart. Originally part<br />
of the Peschier family’s Paradise Estate,<br />
a portion of land in the centre remains<br />
a burial ground; it was converted into a<br />
city park in 1817. The Caribbean’s oldest<br />
recreation ground — and reported to be<br />
the world’s largest roundabout at approximately<br />
3.5km/2.2 miles — the Savannah<br />
is popular for sports, kite-flying<br />
(especially around Easter), walking/jogging,<br />
and food/drink vendors.<br />
On the northern side, you will find<br />
the Emperor Valley Zoo (founded in 1947,<br />
tel: 622-5344) and the Botanical Gardens<br />
(established in 1820). Here you can relax<br />
among one of the oldest collections of<br />
exotic plants and trees in the Western<br />
Hemisphere. Children especially will enjoy<br />
seeing the zoo’s rare white Bengali<br />
tigers, lions and giraffes, and a chimpanzee<br />
who likes to watch TV.<br />
Across from the Savannah on the<br />
southeastern side is the Memorial Park<br />
and the iconic National Academy for the<br />
Performing Arts. Next door is the National<br />
Museum & Art Gallery, home to a<br />
permanent collection of 10,000 items in<br />
galleries focusing on art, social history,<br />
natural history, economic history, petroleum<br />
and geology, and 19th-century<br />
painter Michel-Jean Cazabon, as well as<br />
a small gallery dedicated to carnival arts.<br />
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Zoology Museum (University of the West Indies)<br />
Some 70,000 animal specimens are preserved here — reptiles, amphibians, fish, insects,<br />
corals, crustaceans, and molluscs — with smaller collections of mammals and<br />
birds. The majority are from T&T, the rest from around the region. Among them is a<br />
collection from the Banwari site in south <strong>Trinidad</strong>, excavated in 1969–70. Dating back<br />
to 6000–4350 BC, this site is the earliest human settlement in <strong>Trinidad</strong> and probably<br />
the Caribbean, based on the items found — hand-stones, grinding slabs, arrows, awls,<br />
needles, a probable weaving tool, and an axe. The oldest human skeleton ever found in<br />
the Caribbean was also unearthed, and Banwari Man is also on display at the museum.<br />
Mud volcanos<br />
These geological wonders can be found<br />
mainly in the south of the island.<br />
Piparo: Also known as Morne Roche,<br />
* this volcano (111m/365ft, 425 acres)<br />
last erupted in 1997, spewing mud<br />
hundreds of feet in the air and forcing<br />
an evacuation of the area.<br />
*<br />
Devil’s Woodyard (Indian Walk): Majestic<br />
teak trees line the road to the site.<br />
A paved walkway takes you straight<br />
to the dozen small cones from which<br />
grey mud bubbles up. Concrete huts<br />
with tables and benches and other<br />
seating make this is a great place for a<br />
picnic. Large playground at one end of<br />
the park.<br />
Pitch Lake at La Brea<br />
One of the three largest natural deposits of asphalt in<br />
the world, it’s deceptively boring to look at — like a<br />
giant empty parking lot. But it’s what’s beneath that<br />
counts. This tar baby, nestled near the southwestern<br />
coast, is a natural wonder. Estimated to contain 10<br />
million tonnes of asphalt, and spanning 109 acres, the<br />
lake’s asphalt has been used to pave roads and airport<br />
runways. Pools formed by rain contain high levels of<br />
sulphur, which are good for the skin and joints. An important<br />
aspect of earth’s history, the lake holds deep<br />
secrets about the formation of oil and gas. Artefacts<br />
from the First Peoples, for whom the lake was sacred,<br />
have been unearthed here; some can be viewed at the<br />
museum in the visitor centre.<br />
*<br />
Digity Trace (Debe): Rising 6m/20ft in<br />
the air, you can climb up surrounding<br />
paths to get a look inside the<br />
mouth. It is more active during the<br />
rainy season. A second volcano, flat<br />
in shape, is located a short distance<br />
away. For those willing to try, you<br />
can scoop up some and make a<br />
much-touted DIY beauty treatment<br />
— a mud mask…<br />
Other volcanoes can be found at L’Eau<br />
Michel, Lagon Bouffe, Anglais Point,<br />
Erin, Chatam, Columbia Estate, Fullarton,<br />
Cedros, Galfa, Los Eros, Tabaquite, Cascadoux<br />
Trace, and Manzanilla.<br />
Fort George<br />
Built in 1804, this “virgin<br />
fort” (which never saw<br />
military action) offers a<br />
magnificent panoramic<br />
view from 335m/1,100ft<br />
above Port of Spain; its<br />
original cannon, cannon<br />
balls, and part of the dungeon<br />
remain. On a clear<br />
day, you can see to south<br />
<strong>Trinidad</strong>, and west to Venezuela.<br />
Open 10am–6pm,<br />
admission free<br />
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ARIANN THOMPSON<br />
Valencia Eco-Resort<br />
A 10-acre estate in the east, in the foothills<br />
of the Northern Range (half-hour<br />
drive from the airport). Hundreds of<br />
fruit trees including the now rare balata,<br />
plus caimate, tamarind, sapodilla<br />
and cashew, to name a few; with attendant<br />
flocks of birds and butterflies. Enjoy<br />
aerobics, archery, basketball, cricket,<br />
volleyball, football, table tennis and billiards,<br />
plus a universal gym. Fish for tilapia<br />
in the pond, cook in an outdoor carat<br />
shed or take a cool dip in the river (or<br />
the 2,000 square foot swimming pool).<br />
Also in the mix: peacocks, geese, parrots,<br />
guinea fowls, turkeys, ducks, tortoises,<br />
rabbits and monkeys. 731-6774,<br />
valenciaecoresort.com<br />
The view over Port of Spain from Fort George<br />
Angostura Museum and Barcant<br />
Butterfly Collection<br />
The Barcant collection, the only one of its<br />
kind in the region, comprises more than<br />
5,000 butterflies (700 species, including<br />
the blue emperor) in a re-created tropical<br />
forest. Children will thrill at the sight<br />
of the butterflies and sounds of nature<br />
as they walk through the “mountains of<br />
the Northern Range”. Angostura bought<br />
the collection in 1974 and it has been at<br />
the company’s compound (Eastern Main<br />
Road, Port of Spain) since. You can also<br />
take a tram tour introducing you to the<br />
history and making of their world-famous<br />
bitters and celebrated rums. Tours<br />
(two hours) are 9:30am and 1:30pm, Monday–Friday;<br />
advance booking required:<br />
623-1841, betancr@angostura.com<br />
San Fernando Hill<br />
Considered sacred by the<br />
Warao of the Orinoco Delta,<br />
it is known as Naparima<br />
Hill by our First Peoples,<br />
who believe it is home to<br />
one of their supreme spirits<br />
and also to their ancestor-hero,<br />
the maker of the<br />
first canoe. From the top<br />
you have a superb view<br />
of the heavily populated<br />
southern capital and surrounding<br />
areas. With free<br />
admission, lots of parking,<br />
visitor facilities, benches,<br />
picnic huts and a play<br />
park, the hill is a popular<br />
liming spot for families<br />
and a top event venue in<br />
the second city.<br />
Family friendly fun<br />
discovertnt.com<br />
67
Map Key (applies to all maps)<br />
Police Station<br />
Hospital<br />
Turtle Nesting<br />
Shopping Centre<br />
Lighthouse<br />
Beach with<br />
Restrooms<br />
Caves<br />
Highway<br />
Gas Station<br />
Bird Watching<br />
Golf Course<br />
Scuba Diving<br />
Place of interest<br />
Food Available<br />
Museum<br />
Planned<br />
Highway<br />
Huevos<br />
Chacachacare<br />
Scotland Bay<br />
Monos<br />
Gaspar<br />
Grande<br />
Waterfall<br />
Sailing & boat tours<br />
Fort<br />
Airport<br />
Surfing<br />
Swamp<br />
Lifeguard on Duty<br />
Major roadway<br />
Macqueripe Bay<br />
Chaguaramas<br />
Diego Martin<br />
PORT OF<br />
SPAIN<br />
Pt Lisas<br />
Paramin<br />
Santa Cruz<br />
Morvant<br />
El Socorro<br />
Waterloo<br />
Couva<br />
California<br />
Maracas Bay<br />
Barataria<br />
San Juan<br />
Caroni Bird Sanctuary<br />
Chaguanas<br />
Tyrico Bay<br />
St Joseph<br />
Curepe<br />
Carapichaima<br />
Las Cuevas<br />
Freeport<br />
Tunapuna<br />
Piarco<br />
Gran Couva<br />
Lopinot<br />
Tacarigua<br />
A<br />
Pia<br />
Jerningham<br />
A<br />
Junction<br />
Cunupia<br />
Longdenville<br />
Claxton Bay<br />
Tortuga<br />
Pi<br />
Granville<br />
Pt Fortin<br />
Vessigny<br />
Cap De Ville<br />
La Brea<br />
Pitch Lake<br />
Mon Desir<br />
St Mary’s<br />
Siparia<br />
Pointe-à-Pierre<br />
SAN<br />
FERNANDO<br />
Fyzabad<br />
Oropouche<br />
Lagoon<br />
Vistabella<br />
Debe<br />
Penal<br />
Gasparillo<br />
Ste Madeleine<br />
Princes<br />
Town<br />
Barrackpore<br />
Bus<br />
New Grant<br />
India<br />
Wal<br />
Icacos Pt<br />
Icacos<br />
Cedros<br />
Erin Bay<br />
San Francique<br />
Palo Seco<br />
Los Bajos<br />
Quinam Bay<br />
68<br />
discovertnt.com
yrico Bay<br />
Las Cuevas<br />
Blanchisseuse<br />
Matelot<br />
Grande Riviere<br />
Galera Pt<br />
Toco<br />
Redhead<br />
Salybia Bay<br />
Brasso Seco<br />
Rampanalgas<br />
Joseph<br />
rou<br />
epe<br />
Tunapuna<br />
Lopinot<br />
Tacarigua<br />
Arouca<br />
Asa Wright Nature<br />
Centre<br />
Valencia<br />
Arima<br />
Hollis Reservoir<br />
Matura<br />
Salybia<br />
Balandra Bay<br />
Saline (Sally) Bay<br />
Matura Bay<br />
Piarco<br />
rco Intl<br />
Piarco Intl<br />
rningham irport<br />
Airport<br />
nction<br />
Cunupia<br />
San Rafael<br />
Cumuto<br />
Guaico<br />
Cunaripa<br />
Sangre<br />
Grande<br />
ngdenville<br />
Talparo<br />
Coryal<br />
Caroni-Arena Reservoir<br />
Manzanilla<br />
a<br />
eeport<br />
Gran Couva<br />
Todds Road<br />
Brasso<br />
Navet Dam<br />
Biche<br />
Manzanilla Bay<br />
Tabaquite<br />
Tortuga<br />
pa<br />
Piparo<br />
arillo<br />
Busy Corner<br />
Poole<br />
ine<br />
New Grant<br />
Tableland<br />
n Princes Indian<br />
k Town Walk<br />
Devil’s Woodyard<br />
ckpore<br />
Basse Terre<br />
Moruga<br />
Rio Claro<br />
Nariva Swamp<br />
and Bush-Bush<br />
Sanctuary<br />
Guayaguayare<br />
Rushville<br />
St Joseph<br />
Mayaro<br />
Mayaro Bay<br />
Galeota Pt<br />
N<br />
<strong>Trinidad</strong> map<br />
discovertnt.com<br />
69
Cocorite, Westmoorings, Chaguaramas<br />
Kandahar St<br />
Maraval<br />
Ellerslie Park<br />
Link<br />
St James Medical<br />
Complex<br />
Coronation<br />
AUDREY JEFFERS<br />
Mathura<br />
Luckput St<br />
Salazar St<br />
Carlton Ave<br />
Romeo St<br />
George Cabral<br />
Lazare St<br />
Pujadas St<br />
HIGHWAY<br />
Bay Rd<br />
Ranjit Kumar St<br />
Angelina<br />
Quamina<br />
Church St<br />
Finland<br />
Ethel St<br />
Kathleen St<br />
Bournes Rd<br />
Brunton Rd<br />
WESTERN MAIN RD<br />
Dengue St<br />
Mooneram St<br />
Anderson St<br />
Vidale St<br />
MUCURAPO Rd<br />
Patna St<br />
Bombay St<br />
Weekes St<br />
Clarence St<br />
Baroda St<br />
Calcutta St<br />
Panka St<br />
Woodbrook Cemetery<br />
MovieTowne<br />
Delhi St<br />
Nizam St<br />
Sakar St<br />
Madras St<br />
Nepaul St<br />
Agra St<br />
Hyderabad<br />
St<br />
Henry Pierre<br />
Gaston<br />
Fatima Sports<br />
Grounds<br />
Hasely Crawford<br />
Stadium<br />
Long Circular<br />
Mall<br />
Jean Pierre<br />
Complex<br />
Bengal St<br />
Cawnpore St<br />
Johnston St<br />
Benares St<br />
Long Circular Rd<br />
Belle Smythe<br />
Lucknow St<br />
Taylor St<br />
Hamilton Holder St<br />
Hamilton St<br />
O’Connor<br />
Petra St<br />
Dennis Mahabir St<br />
St Lucia St<br />
Barbados Rd<br />
St James<br />
Police Baracks<br />
One<br />
Woodbrook<br />
Place<br />
Digicel Imax<br />
Damian St<br />
De Verteuil St<br />
Brabant St<br />
Kelly Kenny St<br />
Ana St<br />
Hunter St<br />
Petra St<br />
<strong>Trinidad</strong> Crescent<br />
Antigua Dr<br />
Gallus St<br />
Grenada<br />
Ana St<br />
Pole Carew St<br />
Gallus St<br />
Alberto St<br />
Dominica<br />
Nevis Ave<br />
St Mary’s Sports<br />
Grounds<br />
Alberto<br />
Jamaica Blvd<br />
Serpentine Rd<br />
Broome St<br />
ARIAPITA AVENUE<br />
Siegert Sq<br />
Luis St<br />
Rosalino St<br />
St Kitts Ave<br />
St Vincent<br />
Havelock<br />
St<br />
Roberts St<br />
Rosalino St<br />
Rapsey St<br />
Luis St<br />
Alfredo St<br />
Ellerslie Pl<br />
Elizabeth St<br />
Adam<br />
Smith Sq<br />
Carlos St<br />
Wainwright<br />
Alfredo St<br />
Scot<br />
Carlos<br />
Murray St<br />
Fl<br />
St<br />
Nelson Mandela Nelson ParkMandela P<br />
Me<br />
d<br />
Queen’s Park Qu<br />
Oval<br />
TRAGA<br />
rt S<br />
o St<br />
t K<br />
ince<br />
obe<br />
A<br />
Port of Spain<br />
John S Donaldson<br />
Techinal Institute<br />
on<br />
al In<br />
Taxi Stands<br />
1<br />
2<br />
3<br />
Ariapita Avenue/<br />
Chaguaramas/Carenage<br />
Cascade<br />
Maraval<br />
5<br />
6<br />
7<br />
8<br />
St Anns/St James/Queens<br />
Park Savannah<br />
Belmont<br />
Diego Martin/Petit Valley<br />
Wrightson Rd/Long Circular<br />
10<br />
11<br />
12<br />
Curepe Tunapuna/<br />
Arima/Sangre Grande<br />
San Juan<br />
Chaguaramas<br />
N<br />
N<br />
4<br />
Cocorite<br />
9<br />
Chaguanas/San Fernando<br />
13<br />
POS General Hospital<br />
70<br />
discovertnt.com
Flament St<br />
Archer St<br />
Maraval & Maracas<br />
St Ann’s<br />
a<br />
t<br />
nt<br />
St<br />
St<br />
lfredo St<br />
oo<br />
C<br />
ark<br />
rts St<br />
q<br />
Luis St<br />
Fit<br />
Ellerslie Plaza<br />
Rapsey St<br />
itts Ave<br />
Adam<br />
Smith Sq<br />
Carlos St<br />
Wainwright<br />
Elizabeth St<br />
een’s Park<br />
Oval<br />
Alfredo St<br />
aldson<br />
stitute<br />
Scott St<br />
Carlos St<br />
Murray St<br />
Flood St<br />
Fitt St<br />
Maxwell-Phillip<br />
St Clair<br />
Medical<br />
Sweet Briar Rd<br />
Alexandra<br />
Saddle Rd<br />
TRAGARETE RD<br />
Murray St<br />
Hayes St<br />
Gray St<br />
Mary St<br />
Alcazar St<br />
Rust St<br />
Flood St<br />
Herbert St<br />
Baden Powell St<br />
Cornelio St<br />
Newbold<br />
Vallot St<br />
Serpentine Rd<br />
Jackson<br />
Sq<br />
William St<br />
French St<br />
Lammy St<br />
Methuen St<br />
Mc Donald St<br />
Kitchener<br />
Buller<br />
Cotton Hill<br />
Queen’s<br />
Royal<br />
College<br />
Licensing Office<br />
Prada St<br />
Cruise Ship Complex<br />
Magnificent Seven<br />
Maraval Rd Maraval Rd<br />
Marli St<br />
Picton St<br />
Warner St<br />
Gatacre St<br />
WRIGHTSON RD<br />
Lady Chancellor Rd<br />
Woodford St<br />
TRAGARETE RD<br />
Sackville St<br />
Stone St<br />
Fire Station<br />
Horticultural<br />
Society<br />
Cipriani Boulevard<br />
Scott Bushe St<br />
Albion St<br />
Stanmore Ave<br />
Lapeyrouse<br />
Cemetery<br />
Shine St<br />
Charles St<br />
Botanical<br />
Gardens<br />
Emperor Valley<br />
Zoo<br />
QUEEN’S PARK SAVANNAH<br />
Victoria Ave<br />
Phillips St<br />
QUEEN’S PARK WEST<br />
Victoria<br />
Sq<br />
Dere St<br />
Melville<br />
Borde St<br />
Fraser St<br />
Melbourne St<br />
Sackville St<br />
London St<br />
Richmond St<br />
Dundonald St<br />
Park St<br />
Government<br />
Campus Plaza<br />
Chancery<br />
Lane<br />
Edward St<br />
St Vincent<br />
Keate St<br />
Gordon St<br />
New St<br />
Oxford St<br />
Abercromby St<br />
Pembroke St<br />
Nook Ave<br />
Prime Minister’s Residence<br />
and Diplomatic Centre<br />
President’s<br />
House<br />
La Fantasie<br />
Queen’s Hall<br />
NAPA<br />
National Museum<br />
QUEEN’S PARK EAST<br />
Knox St<br />
Memorial<br />
Park<br />
Frederick St<br />
Duke St<br />
Henry St<br />
Belmont Circular<br />
Cadiz Rd<br />
Charlotte St<br />
Cascade<br />
Coblentz Ave<br />
Hilton Hotel<br />
1 2<br />
Hall of Justice City Hall<br />
Red<br />
House Woodford<br />
Sq<br />
4<br />
5<br />
Hart St<br />
National<br />
Library<br />
6<br />
Queen St<br />
Palmiste St<br />
Charlotte St<br />
Norfolk St<br />
Prince St<br />
Lady Young Rd<br />
Industry<br />
Erthig Rd<br />
Jerningham Ave<br />
Port of Spain<br />
General Hospital<br />
Observatory<br />
Piccadilly<br />
3<br />
Cascade Morvant, Barataria, Churchill Roosevelt Highway<br />
Chacon St<br />
GULF OF PARIA<br />
International<br />
Waterfront Centre<br />
Water Taxi<br />
INDEPENDENCE SQ/BRIAN LARA PROMENADE<br />
South Quay<br />
7 8<br />
9<br />
10 11<br />
13<br />
12<br />
Terminus/City Gate<br />
Eastern Main Rd<br />
discovertnt.com<br />
71
Morne<br />
Catherine<br />
St Clair<br />
Maracas Bay & North Coast Santa Cruz<br />
North Coast Rd<br />
Morne Coco Rd<br />
Cascade<br />
Long Circular Rd<br />
Lady YoungRd<br />
Queens Park<br />
Savannah<br />
Independence Sq<br />
Blue Basin<br />
Bagatelle<br />
Goodwood Park<br />
C o c o r i<br />
t e<br />
l f<br />
o f P<br />
a r i a<br />
a<br />
S e<br />
n<br />
e a<br />
Macqueripe<br />
Bay<br />
b b<br />
ri<br />
C a<br />
B o c a<br />
d e<br />
M o n o s<br />
Boca de Huevos<br />
Boca de Novios<br />
Boca Grande<br />
Chacachacare<br />
Huevos<br />
Monos<br />
Teteron Bay<br />
Gaspar Grande<br />
Chaguaramas Golf<br />
Course<br />
Edith<br />
Falls<br />
North Post<br />
Glencoe<br />
Paramin<br />
St Andrew's<br />
Golf Course<br />
Maraval<br />
St Ann's<br />
Saddle Rd<br />
St James<br />
Belmont<br />
Woodbrook<br />
Laventille<br />
Wrightson Rd<br />
Diego Martin Main Rd<br />
Tracking Station<br />
Gasparee Caves<br />
Petite<br />
Gourde<br />
Carrera<br />
Carenage<br />
Bay Carenage<br />
Chagville<br />
Five Islands<br />
Diego<br />
Pt<br />
Cumana<br />
West Mall<br />
Ft George<br />
PORT OF<br />
SPAIN<br />
Rd<br />
M a i n<br />
North west<br />
N<br />
River Estate &<br />
Waterwheel<br />
Diego<br />
Martin<br />
Petit<br />
Valley<br />
TUCKER VALLEY<br />
Scotland Bay<br />
The Dragon's Mouth<br />
Carenage<br />
C H A G<br />
U A R<br />
Western<br />
A M<br />
A S<br />
Western Main Rd<br />
Starlite<br />
Shopping<br />
Centre<br />
G u<br />
72<br />
discovertnt.com
Port of Spain<br />
Port of Spain<br />
Saline Bay<br />
Matura Bay<br />
Balandra<br />
Toco<br />
Cumana<br />
Bay<br />
N<br />
Sans Souci<br />
e a<br />
S<br />
a n<br />
b b e<br />
C a r i<br />
Grande<br />
Tacaribe<br />
Bay<br />
Madamas<br />
Bay<br />
Cumaca<br />
Grand<br />
Matelot<br />
Pt<br />
Matelot Bay<br />
Matelot<br />
Grande Riviere<br />
Matura<br />
Salybia<br />
Salybia<br />
Bay<br />
Cumana<br />
Rampanalgas<br />
Galera<br />
Pt<br />
Toco Main Road<br />
Grande Riviere<br />
Bay<br />
North east<br />
Paria Main Rd<br />
Paria Bay<br />
Yarra Bay<br />
La Fillette<br />
Chupara Pt<br />
Pt<br />
North Coast Trail<br />
Blanchisseuse Bay<br />
La Fillete<br />
Las Cuevas Bay<br />
Blanchisseuse<br />
North Coast Rd<br />
Tyrico Bay<br />
Rincon<br />
Brasso Seco<br />
Santa Cruz Maracas Falls<br />
Asa Wright<br />
Nature<br />
Sombasson<br />
La Veronica<br />
Centre Dunstan<br />
La Laja<br />
La Pastora Cave<br />
Caura<br />
Mt St<br />
Benedict<br />
Monastery<br />
Lopinot<br />
Guanapo<br />
Gorge<br />
Aripo<br />
Cumaca<br />
Rio Seco<br />
Valencia<br />
Tunapuna<br />
St Augustine<br />
Arouca<br />
ARIMA<br />
Tacarigua<br />
Curepe<br />
Las Cuevas<br />
El Tucuche<br />
(936m)<br />
Cleaver<br />
Woods<br />
El Cerro del Aripo<br />
(941m)<br />
Hollis Reservoir<br />
Caura Royal Road<br />
Lopinot Rd<br />
El Socorro<br />
University of<br />
the West Indies<br />
Santa Rosa Race Track<br />
Paria<br />
Maracas Bay<br />
G E<br />
A N<br />
N R<br />
H E R<br />
N O R T<br />
Maracas Royal Rd<br />
Saddle Rd<br />
St Joseph<br />
San Juan<br />
Barataria<br />
Eastern Main Rd<br />
Valsayn<br />
NGC National<br />
Science Centre<br />
D'Abadie<br />
Turure Water<br />
Steps<br />
Aripo Rd<br />
Heights of Guanapo Rd<br />
Arima-Blanchisseuse Rd<br />
Trincity<br />
Mall<br />
Wallerfield<br />
San Fernando San Fernando Sangre Grande<br />
Sangre Grande & East Coast<br />
Madamas<br />
discovertnt.com<br />
73
Tunapuna<br />
Couva<br />
Southern Main Rd<br />
i n R d<br />
M a<br />
Toco Main R d<br />
Bay<br />
E a s te rn M a in Rd<br />
PORT OF SPAIN<br />
Lopinot<br />
Curepe<br />
Caroni Swamp and<br />
Bird Sanctuary<br />
El Socorro<br />
Valsayn<br />
Caroni<br />
Cunupia<br />
St Helena<br />
San Rafael<br />
Chaguanas<br />
Longdenville<br />
CARONI PLAIN<br />
Talparo<br />
Chase Village<br />
Waterloo<br />
Potteries<br />
Friendship Hall<br />
Carapichaima<br />
Todd's Rd<br />
Mundo Nuevo<br />
Valencia<br />
Tamana<br />
Bat Caves<br />
Manzanilla<br />
Upper<br />
Pt<br />
Manzanilla<br />
Lower<br />
Manzanilla<br />
Plum<br />
Mitan<br />
Brigand Hill<br />
Lighthouse<br />
Plum Mitan Rd<br />
L o p<br />
C a u r<br />
d<br />
y a<br />
d l<br />
i n o<br />
a R<br />
r a c a<br />
l R<br />
Yo u n g R d<br />
R<br />
C hu<br />
h i ll -R o o s e v e l t H i g h w a y<br />
r c<br />
Divali<br />
Nagar<br />
Piarco<br />
Piarco International<br />
Airport<br />
Temple in<br />
the Sea<br />
Hanuman<br />
Murti<br />
ORANGE<br />
ESTATE<br />
Freeport<br />
Southern Main R d<br />
California<br />
Brechin<br />
Castle<br />
Pt Lisas<br />
Industrial<br />
Estate<br />
Chicklands<br />
Flanagin<br />
Town<br />
La Vega<br />
Garden Centre<br />
Gran<br />
Couva<br />
Tortuga<br />
Mayo<br />
Pepper<br />
Village<br />
MONSTERRAT<br />
HILLS<br />
Brasso<br />
Tabaquite<br />
Brasso<br />
Venado<br />
Tabaquite<br />
Tunnel<br />
M a in R d<br />
C ou v a<br />
Solomon Hochoy Highway<br />
Claxton Bay<br />
Navet Dam<br />
& Reservoir<br />
Pointe-à-Pierre<br />
Wildfowl<br />
Piparo<br />
Trust<br />
Brickfield<br />
Pointe-à-Pierre<br />
San Fernando<br />
Reform Williamsville<br />
Marabella<br />
Bargain<br />
Indian<br />
Walk<br />
New<br />
Busy<br />
Corner<br />
Biche<br />
Cuche<br />
Navet<br />
Navet River<br />
Killdeer River<br />
Rio<br />
Claro<br />
THE<br />
COCAL<br />
Nariva River<br />
Nariva Swamp &<br />
Bush Bush Wildlife<br />
Sanctuary<br />
Manzanilla-Mayaro Rd<br />
Cumuto<br />
Cunaripa<br />
SANGRE<br />
GRANDE<br />
Pt<br />
Radix<br />
Mayaro<br />
Cunapo Southern Rd<br />
M a y a r o R d<br />
i ma<br />
N a pa r<br />
San Juan<br />
ARIMA<br />
Grand<br />
Bazaar<br />
Caroni-<br />
Arena Dam<br />
& Reservoir<br />
R A N G E<br />
R i o C l a r o G<br />
Blanchisseuse<br />
& North Coast<br />
Port of Spain<br />
Arouca<br />
Valpark Shopping<br />
Plaza<br />
Trincity<br />
Mall<br />
Uriah Butler Highway<br />
Ta lpa ro R d<br />
St Mary's<br />
Hollis<br />
Reservoir<br />
Central<br />
N<br />
C E N T R A L<br />
Tabaquite Rd<br />
SAN<br />
FERNANDO<br />
74<br />
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32
Gulf of Paria<br />
Port of Spain Tabaquite Sangre Grande<br />
Nariva Swamp<br />
Cunapo Rd<br />
Rio Claro Tabaquite<br />
Solomon Hochoy Highway<br />
Pointe-à-Pierre Wildfowl Trust<br />
Naparima-Mayaro Rd<br />
Mayaro<br />
Rio Claro<br />
Tableland<br />
Indian Walk<br />
Rd<br />
Naparima<br />
Mayaro Bay<br />
St Madeleine<br />
Mayaro-Guayaguayare Rd<br />
Ortoire River<br />
Basse Terre<br />
N<br />
La Lune<br />
La Romaine<br />
La Brea<br />
Columbus<br />
Bay<br />
Fullarton<br />
Cedros Bay<br />
Devil's Woodyard Mud<br />
Volcano<br />
Bonasse<br />
Sixth Company<br />
Chatham<br />
North<br />
Pt Fortin<br />
Vessigny<br />
Granville Siparia<br />
Chatham<br />
South<br />
Icacos<br />
Erin<br />
Pt<br />
Princes<br />
Town<br />
Pitch Lake<br />
Oropouche<br />
Lagoon<br />
Southern Trunk Rd<br />
San Fernando-Siparia-Erin Rd<br />
Erin Rd<br />
Erin ( San<br />
Francique)<br />
Third Company<br />
Los Iros<br />
Debe<br />
Palo Seco Quinam<br />
Barrackpore<br />
Penal<br />
Guayaguayare<br />
TRINITY HILLS<br />
WILDLIFE SANCTUARY<br />
& RESERVE<br />
Rock Rd<br />
Galeota<br />
Pt<br />
Guayaguayare<br />
Bay<br />
TRINITY HILLS<br />
South<br />
Morne<br />
Diablo<br />
Moruga<br />
Pointe-à-Pierre<br />
SAN FERNANDO<br />
Mon Desir<br />
Fyzabad<br />
Banwari<br />
Trace<br />
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75
RAPSO IMAGING<br />
As always, some<br />
dates/events are<br />
subject to change<br />
or cancellation.<br />
And for more<br />
on many of these celebrations,<br />
see our Festivals pages<br />
pages on pg 30 (<strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
and pg 125 (<strong>Tobago</strong>).<br />
76<br />
January<br />
*<br />
1 (public holiday): New Year’s Day<br />
Carnival season begins (see full schedule of events<br />
on ncctt.org)<br />
28: National Panorama Semi-finals (<strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
Carnival Educative Arts Festival & Carnival Caravan<br />
(<strong>Tobago</strong>) *<br />
<strong>Trinidad</strong> & <strong>Tobago</strong> International Marathon<br />
* (<strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
February<br />
Carnival season continues (see full<br />
schedule of events on ncctt.org)<br />
9: Dragon Festival (<strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
*<br />
* 10: National Panorama Finals<br />
(<strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
11: Dimanche Gras (<strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
*<br />
* 12 & 13: J’Ouvert, Carnival Monday<br />
and Tuesday<br />
* 16: Chinese New Year (year of the<br />
dog)<br />
<strong>Tobago</strong> Carnival Regatta<br />
Talk Tent (calypso and comedy, <strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
* March<br />
* *<br />
17: Jazz Artists on the Greens (jaotg.com,<br />
<strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
30 (public holiday): Good Friday<br />
31 (public holiday): Spiritual Baptist<br />
Liberation Day — commemorating the 1951<br />
repeal of the colonial-era Shouters Prohibition<br />
Ordinance (1917), effectively banning<br />
this Christian and Orisha syncretic religion.<br />
The Baptists are also referred to as<br />
Shouter Baptists and Shango Baptists<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
discovertnt.com<br />
Phagwah (Holi)<br />
<strong>Tobago</strong> Game Fishing Tournament<br />
Pigeon Peas Festival (<strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
Turtle nesting season begins
April<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
2 (public holiday):<br />
Easter Monday<br />
25–29: Bocas Lit Fest<br />
— the <strong>Trinidad</strong> & <strong>Tobago</strong><br />
literary festival<br />
Point Fortin Borough<br />
Day (<strong>Trinidad</strong>) — full<br />
week of J’Ouvert, mas,<br />
pan and parties leading<br />
up to the big street<br />
party<br />
Rally <strong>Trinidad</strong><br />
<strong>Tobago</strong> Jazz Experience<br />
La Divina Pastora<br />
(Siparia, <strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
<strong>Tobago</strong> Fashion Coda<br />
May<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
19 & 20: Sea to Sea<br />
Marathon (<strong>Tobago</strong>)<br />
30 (public holiday):<br />
Indian Arrival Day<br />
31 (public holiday):<br />
Corpus Christi<br />
T&T Fashion Week<br />
2TFW<br />
Maypole Festival<br />
(<strong>Tobago</strong>)<br />
European Film Festival<br />
(<strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
Decibel Entertainment<br />
Conference & Expo<br />
(<strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
June<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
15 (public holiday): Eid-ul-Fitr — The most<br />
widely recognised of our Islamic observances,<br />
Eid marks the end of the holy month of Ramadan,<br />
celebrated in homes and mosques<br />
19 (public holiday): Labour Day — marked by<br />
trade union marches and gatherings in Fyzabad,<br />
<strong>Trinidad</strong><br />
Ganga Dhaara: Hindu river festival honouring<br />
the descent of India’s sacred River Ganges<br />
(Blanchisseuse, <strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
<strong>Tobago</strong> Dragon Boat Festival<br />
Rainbow Cup International Triathlon (<strong>Tobago</strong>)<br />
Salsa Fiesta (<strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
WeBeat Festival (<strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
Bloody Bay Fest (<strong>Tobago</strong>)<br />
Charlotteville Fisherman’s Festival (<strong>Tobago</strong>)<br />
Junior <strong>Tobago</strong> Heritage Festival<br />
This page: Spiritual Baptist Liberation Day is celebrated in March<br />
Calendar of events<br />
Opposite: Shynel Brizan, D Jab Queen, plays Maman Brigitte<br />
with Touch D Sky — a band of moko jumbies<br />
CHRIS ANDERSON<br />
discovertnt.com<br />
77
July<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
78<br />
15–1: <strong>Tobago</strong> Heritage<br />
Festival<br />
Great Fete Weekend<br />
(<strong>Tobago</strong>)<br />
Mango Festival<br />
(<strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
Opera Festival<br />
(<strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
Carnival band launch<br />
season begins<br />
(through September/<br />
October)<br />
Motor Rally (<strong>Tobago</strong>)<br />
Trade & Investment<br />
Convention (<strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
Calendar of events<br />
August<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
1 (public holiday): Emancipation Day<br />
31 (public holiday): Independence Day — commemorates<br />
the islands’ independence from Britain in<br />
1962, featuring a parade of the protective services;<br />
national awards; and fireworks<br />
Moruga Heritage Day Festival (<strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
Restaurant Week (<strong>Tobago</strong>)<br />
Arima Borough Day (<strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
Santa Rosa Festival (<strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
Castara Fisherman’s Fete (<strong>Tobago</strong>)<br />
Oshun River Festival (<strong>Trinidad</strong>) — marked by Orisha<br />
devotees celebrating the goddess of love, fertility<br />
and inland waters<br />
Angostura Bitter Rivals Contest (<strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
Pan on d’ Avenue (Woodbrook, <strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
Great Race (<strong>Trinidad</strong> & <strong>Tobago</strong>)<br />
Independence Cup Horse Racing at Santa Rosa<br />
(<strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
Steelband Month<br />
discovertnt.com<br />
KAZIM DANIEL
September<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
24 (public holiday):<br />
Republic Day — marks<br />
the adoption in 1976 of<br />
a new republican constitution<br />
(in which a<br />
President replaced the<br />
Queen of England as<br />
the head of state, and<br />
the islands became<br />
a republic within the<br />
Commonwealth), and<br />
the first meeting of<br />
the republican parliament<br />
trinidad+ tobago film<br />
festival<br />
Restaurant Week<br />
(<strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
Angostura Rum Festival<br />
(<strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
Derby Horse Racing<br />
Classics (<strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
<strong>Tobago</strong> International<br />
Cycling Classic<br />
Maracas Open Water<br />
Swim (<strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
Parang Season opens<br />
October<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
* *<br />
This page: the maracas or chac-chacs are one of the<br />
key instruments in parang music<br />
Opposite: Independence Day fireworks in the Queen’s<br />
Park Savannah<br />
Hosay (<strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
Blue Food Festival<br />
(<strong>Tobago</strong>)<br />
Ramleela Festival<br />
(<strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
Steelpan & Jazz Festival<br />
(<strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
Santa Rosa First<br />
People’s Heritage<br />
Week<br />
COCO Dance Festival<br />
(<strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
Calypso History Month<br />
Chinese Arrival Dragon<br />
Boat Festival<br />
(<strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
November<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
TBC (public holiday):<br />
Divali<br />
International Surf<br />
Festival (<strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
Green Screen: The<br />
Environmental Film<br />
Festival (<strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
December<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
25 (public holiday):<br />
Christmas Day<br />
26 (public holiday):<br />
Boxing Day<br />
Paramin Parang Festival<br />
(<strong>Trinidad</strong>)<br />
COURTESY TDC<br />
discovertnt.com<br />
79
Scheduled carriers<br />
*<br />
Aeropostal,<br />
Air Canada Rouge,<br />
American Airlines, British Airways,<br />
Caribbean Airlines, Copa, Condor,<br />
Conviasa, JetBlue, LIAT, Surinam<br />
Airways, Thomas Cook, United, Virgin<br />
Atlantic, and WestJet service T&T.<br />
Charter flights also operate<br />
Airports<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
<strong>Trinidad</strong>: Piarco International Airport<br />
(27km/17 miles from Port of Spain)<br />
<strong>Tobago</strong>: ANR Robinson International<br />
Airport (10km/7 miles from Scarborough)<br />
ENTERING T&T<br />
You will need to show a passport<br />
valid for three months beyond your<br />
intended stay<br />
Non-residents must have documentation<br />
for return or onward travel and a<br />
local address<br />
Visas are generally not required for<br />
visits up to 30 days, but double-check<br />
with your airline or travel agent<br />
before leaving<br />
GETTING TO T&T<br />
*<br />
*<br />
AIRPORT TRANSFERS<br />
Unless you are being met privately,<br />
take an authorised taxi from the<br />
airport to your destination, confirming<br />
the fare in advance (a list of fares<br />
is displayed in the arrivals area). If in<br />
doubt, check the taxi dispatcher<br />
Authorised private taxis have licence<br />
plates beginning with “H” (for “Hire”),<br />
and are not metered<br />
ARRIVING BY SEA<br />
(YACHTS & SAILING BOATS)<br />
Arriving yachts should have a clearance<br />
certificate from the last port<br />
*<br />
of call, and the vessel’s registration<br />
certificate (or authorisation for use)<br />
*<br />
In <strong>Trinidad</strong>, check in with Customs &<br />
Immigration at CrewsInn in Chaguaramas<br />
*<br />
In <strong>Tobago</strong>, check in with Customs &<br />
Immigration in Scarborough or Charlotteville<br />
Chaguaramas in <strong>Trinidad</strong> is the hub<br />
* of yachting activity, with sheltered<br />
anchorage (Yachting Association) and<br />
strings of maintenance and repair<br />
yards, marinas and essential services<br />
*<br />
Several<br />
CRUISE SHIPS<br />
cruise lines visit <strong>Trinidad</strong><br />
and <strong>Tobago</strong>, mostly out<br />
of Miami between November<br />
and April, including Carnival,<br />
Crystal, Fred Olsen, Hapag-<br />
Lloyd, Holland America, MSC,<br />
Oceania Cruises, MV Adriana,<br />
NYK, P&O, Princess, Regent,<br />
Seven Seas, Saga, Seabourn,<br />
Silver Whisper, Windstar, and<br />
World Odyssey<br />
COURTESY TDC<br />
80<br />
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GETTING AROUND IN T&T<br />
Taxis<br />
NB: Public taxis (bearing “H” number<br />
plates) are not metered, so confirm the<br />
fare in advance<br />
Private taxis: available at the airports<br />
* and through the larger hotels, as well<br />
as apps like Uber and the local Drop.<br />
Companies are also listed in the Yellow<br />
Pages<br />
*<br />
“Route taxis” (cars registered as taxis)<br />
and maxi-taxis (12- to 25-seat minibuses<br />
with brightly coloured bands)<br />
work specific routes, picking up and<br />
dropping off passengers anywhere<br />
along the way. They have designated<br />
stands in Port of Spain, San Fernando,<br />
Chaguanas, Scarborough and other<br />
main towns<br />
ANTHONY SLADDEN<br />
Buses<br />
*<br />
The Public Transport Service Corporation<br />
(PTSC, ptsc.co.tt) operates buses<br />
from Port of Spain to most towns,<br />
sometimes on an “express” basis, and<br />
from hubs in Chaguanas, San Fernando<br />
and Scarborough. Tickets ($2–12)<br />
or travel cards must be bought before<br />
boarding<br />
Car rentals<br />
*<br />
Local and international rental companies<br />
operate in both islands and at<br />
both airports<br />
Ferries<br />
*<br />
Inter-island ferry service (Port of<br />
Spain–Scarborough) operated by Port<br />
Authority (ttitferry.com), with the<br />
Visitor Info<br />
fastest ferries taking 2.5 hours. Tickets,<br />
which can be booked online: $100<br />
return (adults); $50 (children under<br />
12); free for children under three and<br />
senior citizens (65+); and $200 one<br />
way/$350 return for adults traveling<br />
with a vehicle<br />
<strong>Trinidad</strong> Water Taxi: west coast<br />
* service operated by the National<br />
Infrastructure Development Company<br />
(nidco.co.tt). Single journeys are<br />
30–45 minutes. Tickets $15 (adults),<br />
while infants under the age of one<br />
travel free, and senior citizens (65+)<br />
travel free on off-peak sailings<br />
Air bridge<br />
*<br />
Caribbean<br />
discovertnt.com<br />
Airlines (625-7200,<br />
caribbean-airlines.com) operates several<br />
flights daily: tickets US$48 round<br />
trip (roughly 20 minutes each way)<br />
81
Money matters<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
Money: ABMs (ATMs) and credit/debit<br />
cards are routinely used<br />
Currency: <strong>Trinidad</strong> & <strong>Tobago</strong> dollar<br />
(TT$); US$1= approximately TT$6.8<br />
(floating exchange rate)<br />
Taxes: 10% room tax + 10% service at<br />
hotels; 12.5% VAT (value added tax)<br />
on most goods and services<br />
Driving<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
Driving<br />
Driving: on the left. Seatbelts are<br />
required by law<br />
Speed limits: <strong>Trinidad</strong> 80kph (50mph)<br />
on highways, 55kph (34mph) in<br />
settled areas; <strong>Tobago</strong> 50kph (32mph)<br />
permits: visitors can drive<br />
for up to 90 days on a valid foreign/<br />
international licence<br />
Utilities<br />
*<br />
Electricity: 115v/230v, 60Hz<br />
Water: tap water is safe to drink (boil<br />
to be doubly sure); bottled water is<br />
widely available<br />
Communications<br />
*<br />
*<br />
Country phone code: +1 868<br />
Mobile telephones: bmobile (TSTT)<br />
and Digicel operate on GSM networks;<br />
SIM cards are available for unlocked<br />
phones<br />
WiFi: available at several hotspots,<br />
hotels, restaurants and malls in <strong>Trinidad</strong><br />
& <strong>Tobago</strong>. Some PTSC buses also<br />
provide the facility<br />
TRAVEL BASICS<br />
Visitor Info<br />
* 82<br />
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Safety<br />
Take practical precautions when travelling:<br />
note emergency numbers; always<br />
lock your room/house/vehicle (including<br />
windows); don’t wear expensive jewellery,<br />
and conceal/secure valuables; move<br />
in groups where possible; avoid deserted<br />
locations, and be aware of your surroundings.<br />
If you’re on the road, buckle<br />
up, and drive defensively<br />
Emergency contacts<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
Ambulance (public hospitals): 811<br />
Coast Guard: 634-4440, 634-8824,<br />
634-4439<br />
EMS (emergency medical services):<br />
624-4343 (north <strong>Trinidad</strong>), 653-4343<br />
(south/central <strong>Trinidad</strong>), 639-4444<br />
(<strong>Tobago</strong>)<br />
Hyperbaric medical facility (decompression<br />
chamber, Roxborough,<br />
<strong>Tobago</strong>): 660-4369<br />
Fire Services: 990<br />
Office of Disaster Preparedness and<br />
Management (ODPM) Emergency: 511<br />
Police Service: in <strong>Trinidad</strong>, 999 or 555;<br />
in <strong>Tobago</strong>, 639-2520 or 639-5590<br />
<strong>Tobago</strong> Emergency Relief: 211<br />
Tourism contacts<br />
*<br />
*<br />
Division of Tourism, <strong>Tobago</strong>:<br />
639-2125, visittobago.gov.tt<br />
Immigration Division: 625-3571 (<strong>Trinidad</strong>),<br />
639-2681 (<strong>Tobago</strong>),<br />
immigration.gov.tt<br />
Tourist information offices: 639-<br />
0509 (Crown Point Airport); 635-0934<br />
(Cruise Ship Complex, <strong>Tobago</strong>);<br />
669-5196 (Piarco Airport)
CHRIS ANDERSON<br />
The view from Paramin of Port of<br />
Spain with the lights of Point Lisas<br />
visible across the Gulf of Pariah<br />
<strong>Trinidad</strong> & <strong>Tobago</strong> Tourism Industry Certification (TTTIC)<br />
Industry stakeholders (eg accommodation providers, tour guides/operators, vehicle<br />
rental and ground transport providers, and dive facilities) that are part of the TT-<br />
TIC programme have been audited by the <strong>Trinidad</strong> & <strong>Tobago</strong> Bureau of Standards.<br />
Approved providers display the TTTIC logo.<br />
discovertnt.com<br />
83
Capital<br />
*<br />
National capital: Port of Spain<br />
*<br />
<strong>Tobago</strong> capital: Scarborough<br />
Climate<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
Tropical. Dry season January–May,<br />
wet June–December<br />
The islands are just south of the main<br />
hurricane belt (11°N, 61°W)<br />
Temperature range: 72–95°F (22–<br />
35°C); average 83°F (29°C)<br />
T&T IN A NUTSHELL<br />
Highest points<br />
*<br />
*<br />
<strong>Trinidad</strong>: El Cerro del Aripo<br />
(940m/3,085ft)<br />
<strong>Tobago</strong>: Main Ridge (549m/1,860ft)<br />
Size<br />
Visitor Info<br />
* <strong>Trinidad</strong>: 4,828km2 (1,864 sq miles) or<br />
105 x 80km (65 x 50 miles)<br />
* <strong>Tobago</strong>: 300km2 (116 sq miles) or 48 x<br />
16km (30 x 10 miles)<br />
<strong>Tobago</strong> and <strong>Trinidad</strong> are 33km (21<br />
* miles) apart; <strong>Trinidad</strong> is 10km (7<br />
miles) from Venezuela<br />
CHRIS ANDERSON<br />
Time zone<br />
Prime Minister: Dr Keith Rowley<br />
*<br />
Atlantic Standard Time year-round<br />
*<br />
Ruling party: the People’s National<br />
(GMT/UTC -4, EST +1)<br />
Movement (PNM)<br />
Official opposition: United National<br />
Government<br />
* Congress (UNC)<br />
<strong>Trinidad</strong> & <strong>Tobago</strong> is a parliamentary<br />
*<br />
*<br />
Opposition leader: Kamla Persad-<br />
Bissessar<br />
democracy; elections have been held<br />
regularly since self-government in<br />
1956<br />
Official language<br />
* President: Anthony Carmona * English<br />
84<br />
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Population & demographics<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
Religions:<br />
*<br />
Population: 1.4 million (<strong>Tobago</strong> approx<br />
61,000)<br />
Ethnicities: 35% of Indian descent,<br />
34% of African descent, 23% mixed<br />
22% Roman Catholic, 32%<br />
Christian (including Anglican), 18%<br />
Hindu, 5% Muslim<br />
Urban populations: Port of Spain<br />
37,000 (nearly 600,000 between<br />
Chaguaramas and Arima); Chaguanas<br />
84,000; San Fernando 49,000; Scarborough<br />
17,000<br />
Economy<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
Major resources: oil and natural gas<br />
Major industries: petroleum and<br />
petroleum products, liquefied natural<br />
gas (LNG), methanol, ammonia, urea,<br />
light manufacturing and assembly,<br />
agriculture/agriprocessing<br />
Major services: tourism, conference<br />
and convention facilities, financial<br />
services, construction<br />
Key indicators (2016): GDP per capita<br />
approx US$16,000; unemployment<br />
rate 3.9%. The economy contracted by<br />
2.3% for 2016, and was expected to<br />
grow by less than 1% for 2017<br />
Sustainable tourism tips<br />
Buy local goods and souvenirs<br />
Mind your gas (petrol): choose the smallest vehicle to suit your needs; drive<br />
within the speed limit; don’t let your car idle; keep your tires inflated; try to carpool;<br />
and when you can, walk or cycle<br />
Recycle: plastic, glass, cans, paper, cardboard, and e-waste are all recyclable locally<br />
through bins at various locations, or through collections<br />
Reduce: turn off electrical devices when you don’t need them; avoid plastic bags<br />
and styrofoam; buy and consume only what you need; reuse when you can.<br />
1<br />
CLICK<br />
2<br />
PROVIDE<br />
PURCHASE YOUR<br />
FERRY TICKETS<br />
https:\\www.ttitferry.com<br />
Details on Passenger/Vehicle<br />
ONLINE<br />
3<br />
PAY<br />
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PRINT<br />
Provide Credit Card Information<br />
Ferry Tickets and Present at Check In<br />
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T&T HISTORY AT A GLANCE<br />
c 15,000–1,000 BC: islands part of South<br />
America; settled by Amerindians<br />
or First Peoples<br />
1498: Christopher Columbus lands in<br />
<strong>Trinidad</strong>, claims island for Spanish<br />
and names it after Catholic<br />
Holy Trinity<br />
1596: <strong>Tobago</strong> claimed by British<br />
1627–50: Courlanders settle <strong>Tobago</strong>’s<br />
west coast near Plymouth, and<br />
Dutch the east<br />
1781: French seize <strong>Tobago</strong>, convert it<br />
to sugar colony<br />
1783: Spanish governor Chacón’s Cedula<br />
de Población entices Catholic<br />
white and free coloured settlers<br />
to <strong>Trinidad</strong> with land incentives;<br />
rapid development begins<br />
1797: <strong>Trinidad</strong> captured by Sir Ralph<br />
Abercromby’s British fleet<br />
1806: first Chinese workers imported<br />
to <strong>Trinidad</strong><br />
1834–38: slavery abolished in the British<br />
Empire, leading to apprenticeship<br />
(1834) then emancipation<br />
(1838)<br />
1834–1917: indentured labour imported<br />
to <strong>Trinidad</strong> from other islands,<br />
China, Portugal, Syria, Lebanon,<br />
and India<br />
1857: first oil well drilled in <strong>Trinidad</strong><br />
near Pitch Lake<br />
1889–98: <strong>Tobago</strong> merged with <strong>Trinidad</strong>;<br />
<strong>Tobago</strong> Assembly disbanded<br />
1908: commercial oil production begins<br />
in southern <strong>Trinidad</strong><br />
1914: first calypso recorded in <strong>Trinidad</strong><br />
1925: first national elections (limited<br />
franchise)<br />
1931: Piarco International Airport<br />
opens<br />
1935–41: first steelpans emerge in<br />
Laventille, <strong>Trinidad</strong><br />
1807: slave trading abolished in British<br />
empire<br />
1814: <strong>Tobago</strong> ceded to British under<br />
Treaty of Paris<br />
COURTESY TDC<br />
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1937: oilfield and labour strikes led in<br />
southern <strong>Trinidad</strong> by Tubal Uriah<br />
“Buzz” Butler<br />
1940: Crown Point Airport opens in<br />
<strong>Tobago</strong>; national airline British<br />
West Indies Airways (BWIA) commences<br />
operations<br />
1941: Chaguaramas peninsula leased<br />
to United States for 99 years;<br />
American military remain<br />
through World War II<br />
1945: public emergence of steelbands;<br />
universal suffrage implemented<br />
1951: repeal of ordinance prohibiting<br />
activities of Spiritual “Shouter”<br />
Baptist faith<br />
1956: self-government under Eric Williams’<br />
People’s National Movement<br />
(PNM)<br />
1960: <strong>Trinidad</strong> campus of University of<br />
the West Indies (UWI) established<br />
1962: islands gain independence from<br />
Britain; Williams becomes first<br />
prime minister<br />
1963: Hurricane Flora devastates<br />
<strong>Tobago</strong>; Chaguaramas returned<br />
to <strong>Trinidad</strong>ian control<br />
1974: Garfield Blackman (Ras Shorty I)<br />
releases first soca album<br />
1976: new republican constitution<br />
1980: <strong>Tobago</strong> House of Assembly<br />
restored; islands enjoy economic<br />
prosperity<br />
1983: oil prices fall, crippling local<br />
economy<br />
1986: National Alliance for Reconstruction<br />
(NAR) unseats PNM in national<br />
elections; <strong>Tobago</strong>nian ANR<br />
Robinson becomes prime minister<br />
2007: Caribbean Airlines replaces BWIA<br />
as national carrier; record oil<br />
prices fuel economic boom<br />
2010: UNC-led coalition government<br />
(People’s Partnership) ousts PNM<br />
at general and local elections<br />
under Kamla Persad-Bissessar,<br />
the country’s first female prime<br />
minister<br />
2015: oil prices crash, causing economic<br />
slowdown; PNM, under Dr Keith<br />
Rowley, wins general elections.<br />
Visitor Info<br />
discovertnt.com<br />
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Intro<br />
Looking north from<br />
Scarborough over the Claude<br />
Noel Highway and toward the<br />
rugged Atlantic coast<br />
And exhale… Here, there are drop-dead gorgeous<br />
beaches to explore, plus waterfalls, rivers,<br />
and forests. And then there are the reefs<br />
— an underwater kingdom of corals with<br />
hundreds of sea creatures, including manta<br />
rays and hammerhead sharks. Little <strong>Tobago</strong> is a wild and<br />
wonderful outcrop where tropicbirds and frigatebirds fight<br />
over fish, and crash-land among the cacti. A warm <strong>Tobago</strong><br />
welcome to you. Kick off your flip-flops and dive in!<br />
CHRIS ANDERSON<br />
discovertnt.com<br />
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COURTESY VILLAS AT STONEHAVEN<br />
Places<br />
to stay<br />
An Oasis of Serenity<br />
Ideal for Families,<br />
Reunions and<br />
Intimate<br />
Weddings<br />
www.plantationbeachvillas.com<br />
info@plantationbeachvillas.com<br />
Tel: (868) 639-9377<br />
Black Rock, <strong>Tobago</strong><br />
*<br />
*<br />
Around Crown Point: the lovely Bananaquit<br />
Apartments, Belleviste, Coco<br />
Reef, Crown Point Hotel, Kariwak Holistic<br />
Haven (for yoga, natural living,<br />
and delicious food), Sandy Point, the<br />
intimate Sunspree Resort (with pool,<br />
restaurant, and bar), and all-inclusive<br />
Tropikist Beach Hotel & Resort<br />
Caribbean coast: the charming Miller’s<br />
Guest House (Buccoo); and — all<br />
around Black Rock — the luxurious<br />
Plantation Beach Villas (with direct<br />
access to Stonehaven Bay), Seahorse<br />
Inn, Le Grand Courlan, and — perfect<br />
for a group lime, reunion or family<br />
vacation — the opulent, full-service<br />
Villas at Stonehaven are perched on a<br />
hill with magnificent ocean views and<br />
lovely landscaped grounds<br />
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Tranquil waterfront setting<br />
R ESORT<br />
L T D<br />
Overlooking unspoilt<br />
Buccoo Bay, Miller’s<br />
has fully-airconditioned,<br />
budget-friendly,<br />
apartments and rooms<br />
with complimentary WiFi.<br />
Our Luvinia’s Seafood & Steak Restaurant<br />
provides the perfect location for drinks and<br />
romantic meals.<br />
office@millersguesthouse.com<br />
Tel: (868) 660 8371<br />
Buccoo Point, <strong>Tobago</strong><br />
Bananaquit<br />
APARTMENTS TOBAGO<br />
Apartments with kitchens close<br />
to airport and beaches<br />
restaurant<br />
air conditioning<br />
cable tv<br />
free wifi<br />
<br />
service<br />
868 368 3539 | bananaquit.tobago@gmail.com<br />
www.bananaquit.com<br />
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COURTESY MAGDALENA GRAND<br />
Places to stay<br />
*<br />
Atlantic Coast: The Magdalena Grand<br />
Beach & Golf Resort features all-inclusive<br />
options, three pools, a kids club,<br />
multiple restaurants, a golf course, and<br />
a dramatic windswept beachfront<br />
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DISCOVER, EXPLORE, DREAM<br />
<strong>Discover</strong> the beautiful and unique Island of <strong>Tobago</strong>.<br />
<strong>Discover</strong> the beautiful rainforest, natural waterfalls, Nylon pool and so much more.<br />
<strong>Discover</strong> nature at its finest with rare and beautiful orchids, butterflies, and birds.<br />
<strong>Discover</strong> relaxation at one of our three pools, beach, spa and fitness center.<br />
<strong>Discover</strong> new and delicious food selections at one our three restaurants and cafe.<br />
<strong>Discover</strong> Magdalena Grand Beach & Golf Resort, <strong>Tobago</strong>’s fi nest oceanfront resort.<br />
<strong>Tobago</strong> Plantations Estate, Lowlands, <strong>Tobago</strong>, <strong>Trinidad</strong> & <strong>Tobago</strong>, West Indies<br />
<br />
WWW.MAGDALENAG RAND. COM
*<br />
*<br />
Green retreats: a few of the places<br />
doing their bit for the environment<br />
— Cuffie River Nature Resort (near<br />
Runnemede); Adventure Eco Villas<br />
and Top o’ <strong>Tobago</strong> (in the hills above<br />
Arnos Vale); Footprints Eco-Resort<br />
(Culloden); Villa Being (Arnos Vale);<br />
and for divers and birders, Blue Waters<br />
Inn and Top Rankin Guesthouse<br />
(Speyside)<br />
Buy your place in the sun: Looking to<br />
buy your own piece of <strong>Tobago</strong> paradise?<br />
Check out agents like Caribbean<br />
Estates, Lands & Villas.<br />
FARAAZ ABDOOL<br />
A <strong>Trinidad</strong> motmot (of the<br />
Blue-crowned motmot<br />
family) shakes off the<br />
raindrops from a brief<br />
<strong>Tobago</strong> downpour<br />
Places to stay<br />
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Savour the flavours<br />
98<br />
Fresh seafood is one of the healthiest things<br />
about <strong>Tobago</strong>. You can buy fresh fish, shrimp,<br />
crab and lobster (during open season) every<br />
day from fishermen on beaches like Castara and<br />
Parlatuvier, on the way to Pigeon Point, Mt Irvine<br />
Bay, and at roadside stalls all over the island. Most restaurants<br />
use fresh ingredients to make specialties such as curry<br />
crab and dumpling, crab and callaloo (a soup made from<br />
dasheen bush, coconut milk and ochroes), coocoo, coconut<br />
bake and buljol, oil-down, and breadfruit pie. <strong>Tobago</strong>nians<br />
love ground provisions like cassava, yam, dasheen, eddoes,<br />
and tannia.<br />
Sweet tooth tip<br />
If you need a sugar fix, all kinds of goodies are within<br />
reach (at the airport, Store Bay, in shops and groceries)<br />
— benne balls and sticks, toolum, pawpaw balls, tamarind<br />
balls, sugar cake, cassava pone. And fudge — beware<br />
the fudge! It comes in divine flavours like coconut,<br />
soursop and rum and raisin.<br />
discovertnt.com<br />
BENNYARTIST /SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
In and around Crown Point: Good Eats<br />
<strong>Tobago</strong> (tasty, healthy, fairly priced<br />
food and drink); Kariwak (Caribbean<br />
fusion); La Cantina Pizzeria; Skewers<br />
(a halal Middle Eastern grill with a<br />
Trini flavour)<br />
Bon Accord: Crafter’s Steakhouse &<br />
Grill (offering up mouth-watering<br />
cuts and decadent cocktails); and<br />
Mesoreen Café Bistro (delicious food,<br />
plus free pick-up and drop-off to/from<br />
your accommodation!)<br />
Pigeon Point Road: The Pasta Gallery<br />
(Italian), Kafta’s (Mediterranean),<br />
Café Coco (surf and turf)<br />
PLACES TO EAT<br />
*<br />
*<br />
Store Bay: delighting locals and<br />
lovers of creole food since the ‘80s,<br />
vendors here sell crab and dumpling;<br />
curry goat or stew chicken with<br />
callaloo and provision; coocoo (like<br />
foofoo, made from cornmeal); roti<br />
(Indian flour wrap); bake and shark<br />
(which we discourage – ask for flying<br />
fish or kingfish instead, to preserve<br />
what’s left of our endangered<br />
sharks). The best dessert to finish<br />
with? Homemade ice-cream — in flavours<br />
like rum and raisin, barbadine,<br />
soursop, coconut, or Guinness<br />
Buccoo: Revs Steakhouse & Bar (Shirvan<br />
Road); La Tartaruga (Italian)<br />
Curried crab and dumpling is a<br />
must-eat in <strong>Tobago</strong><br />
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Savour the flavours<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
Black Rock: The Seahorse<br />
Inn; Pavilion at Stonehaven<br />
(international); Fish Pot<br />
(Pleasant Prospect)<br />
Lowlands: Kali’na (Caribbean<br />
fusion) and Salaka Grill<br />
at the Magdalena Grand;<br />
Caffè Mia (Italian)<br />
Lambeau: Shore Things<br />
Café (Caribbean/international)<br />
Scarborough: Salsa Kitchen;<br />
Ciao Café & Ciao Pizza (Italian)<br />
Speyside: Aqua (Blue Waters<br />
Inn); Jemma’s Seaview<br />
Kitchen.<br />
GOOD<br />
food<br />
GOOD<br />
prices<br />
*Cnr Crompstain & Milford Rds, Crown Point, <strong>Tobago</strong><br />
Tel: (868) 639-8660 goodeatstobago<br />
*Across the road from the ANR Int. Airport!<br />
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There are more than enough bars,<br />
restaurants, clubs, casinos and<br />
open-air party venues to keep<br />
you happy — especially on the<br />
western side of the island.<br />
Arts &<br />
COURTESY THE SHADE NIGHTCLUB<br />
entertainment<br />
Bars & clubs<br />
*<br />
*<br />
The Shade (Bon Accord): Friday and<br />
Saturday nights draw huge crowds to<br />
the open-air carat-thatched bar, and<br />
the varied playlist<br />
Bar Code (Scarborough): a sports bar<br />
with two pool tables and open-air<br />
seating with views of the esplanade<br />
and sea<br />
*<br />
*<br />
discovertnt.com<br />
Prophet Benjamin wows<br />
the crowd<br />
Jade Monkey (Crown Point): a bar,<br />
grill, and casino featuring cocktails,<br />
pub food, and DJ music so you can<br />
dance the night away<br />
Sahara and Rouge (Buccoo Town<br />
Plaza): pool halls, casinos, and<br />
karaoke nights; Itsy Bitsy Folk Theatre<br />
presents dinner theatre several<br />
Tuesdays during the year.<br />
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COURTESY MAGDELENA GRAND<br />
Screen time<br />
The multiplex MovieTowne cinema (Gulf City Lowlands Mall) screens the latest<br />
blockbusters, and regional fare courtesy the <strong>Trinidad</strong> & <strong>Tobago</strong> Film Festival.<br />
Live music<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
Chart House/Sundowner’s Bar (Crown Point Hotel): Thursday–Saturday<br />
Kariwak (Crown Point): Friday & Saturday sees the Kariwak Players perform<br />
Blue Haven (Scarborough): Thursday (guitarist), Friday (pan) & Sunday (band)<br />
Robinson Crusoe Pub (Magdalena Grand, Lowlands): Wednesday (karaoke), Friday<br />
& Saturday (band)<br />
Pelican Reef Bar and Grill (Crown Point): Tuesday (guitarist), Wednesday–Friday<br />
(band)<br />
Café Iguana (Crown Point): Thursday (live jazz), Friday (local band), Saturday<br />
(African drumming), Sunday (Latin dancing).<br />
Sunday School<br />
The hymns are a little different from what you might be used to, but when<br />
you ketch the spirit, well… it’s heaven on earth. Join the locals for a baptism<br />
of fire at the famous Sunday School street party in Buccoo. Shake a<br />
leg to the steelpan music from the Buccaneers from 9pm. Craft, food and<br />
even gambling stalls fill the street. From 11pm, the locals get cranking…<br />
and can go until sun-up, so pace yourself.<br />
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Arts & entertainment
Shopping<br />
For fine artistinal shopping (herbal products,<br />
jewellery, clothing, local craft),<br />
head to Things Natural in Crown Point.<br />
For everything else, head to the Gulf City<br />
Lowlands Mall, or the plazas in Crown<br />
Point like Shirvan Town Plaza, Milford<br />
Bay Plaza, Buccoo Town Centre, and<br />
Shoppes@Westcity. NB: Please don’t buy<br />
anything made from endangered or environmentally<br />
sensitive species (eg coral,<br />
sea turtles, conch, some snakes, some<br />
birds). If in doubt, ask, and if the answer<br />
is dodgy, don’t buy it.<br />
CEE WEE DESIGNS<br />
If you’re in the market for local<br />
handbags, make sure to check<br />
out Cee Wee Designs<br />
<br />
<br />
Intimate <strong>Tobago</strong> Weddings<br />
create memories in paradise<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Packages include<br />
* Breathtaking Blooms<br />
* Unique Venues<br />
* Outstanding Menus<br />
* Distinctive Decor<br />
* Professional Vendors<br />
www.tobagoflowersonline.com<br />
(868) 660 7748/395 8330<br />
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COURTESY RADICAL SPORTS<br />
& wild<br />
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Wet<br />
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There’s fantastic swimming,<br />
diving, and snorkelling in <strong>Tobago</strong>,<br />
whether in the sea, a<br />
river, under a waterfall, or in<br />
a pool…<br />
*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
BEACHES, RIVERS, WATERFALLS,<br />
WATER SPORTS<br />
Electric boogaloo (Crown Point): If you<br />
move around in Bon Accord Lagoon,<br />
the water comes to life — in electric<br />
blue! This amazing natural wonder<br />
(known as bioluminescence) occurs<br />
around the time of the new moon<br />
when millions of phytoplankton emit<br />
flashes of light to startle predators.<br />
A definite buzz… Radical Sports: 631-<br />
5150, radicalsportstobago.com<br />
Pigeon Point (Crown Point): Beautiful<br />
turquoise waters and lots of fish<br />
to see around the jetty, where you<br />
can take a glass-bottomed boat to<br />
Buccoo Reef and the Nylon Pool, rent<br />
jet skis, windsurf, or parasail. Calm<br />
waters and lots of beach to explore.<br />
Good facilities — changing rooms,<br />
restaurant, bar, shops with inflatables,<br />
snacks and swimwear. Huts<br />
with tables are available for free and<br />
you can rent a sun lounger. Entrance<br />
fee: TT$20<br />
Nylon Pool (near Buccoo Reef): This<br />
world-famous spot off the southwestern<br />
coast was so named by Princess<br />
Margaret who said the water<br />
was as clear as her nylon stockings.<br />
A wallow in its shallow waters is also<br />
said to rejuvenate both the skin…<br />
and relationships. So the story goes.<br />
If you’re lucky, you will be joined in<br />
this reputed fountain of youth by<br />
baby stingrays. The nearby No Man’s<br />
Land is a great spot to cook a freshly<br />
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*<br />
*<br />
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caught snapper or lobster, and the<br />
popular Buccoo Reef is nearby.<br />
Englishman’s Bay (near Castara):<br />
This is a lovely, secluded beach with<br />
a river at one end and lots of coconut<br />
and palm trees. Usually there are only<br />
a few visitors so the place is quiet<br />
and peaceful. Take care as the waves<br />
can be powerful due to the sharp<br />
drop-off of the shoreline very close to<br />
the beach.<br />
Castara (Caribbean coast): This<br />
delightful and quiet little bay has a<br />
lagniappe (added benefit) — bread<br />
yummy enough to eat just by itself,<br />
baked fresh in the traditional outdoor<br />
oven behind the local primary school<br />
on Wednesday and Saturday mornings.<br />
Women from the village also<br />
make cakes and pastries. Castara is a<br />
beautiful unspoiled village with comfy<br />
guesthouses. A waterfall in the rainforest<br />
is an easy walk from the bay.<br />
The water is quite calm with a nice<br />
reef quite close to the shore. The small<br />
beach bar serves a generous lunch.<br />
Bloody Bay (near Parlatuvier):<br />
Majestically surrounded by mountains,<br />
watch stingrays in the water<br />
from the jetty, and fishermen hauling<br />
in their nets as pelicans pilfer from<br />
the catch and frigatebirds swoop to<br />
catch fish jumping out of the water. A<br />
river flows into the sea at one end of<br />
this crescent-shaped beach. There’s<br />
a newly built changing facility. As<br />
for the name, a sign on site gives<br />
an explanation, but there are three<br />
working theories: a battle circa 1666;<br />
a slave uprising 100 years later; and<br />
pigment from red dyewood trees…<br />
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CHRIS ANDERSON<br />
*<br />
*<br />
Pirate’s Bay (Charlotteville): Secluded<br />
and serene, you can get here by boat,<br />
or take a short hike from Charlotteville.<br />
There are about 100 steps to<br />
walk down, but the stunning views<br />
make it worthwhile. Calm waters,<br />
excellent for getting some Vitamin<br />
S – sunbathing, swimming and snorkelling.<br />
The rain forest comes right<br />
down to the beach so you can sit with<br />
binoculars and watch birds feeding<br />
in the water, and crabs and snails on<br />
the rocks.<br />
Argyle Waterfall (pictured): <strong>Tobago</strong>’s<br />
highest waterfall (54m/175ft), Argyle<br />
tumbles over three tiers into a deep<br />
discovertnt.com<br />
pool. Located on the northeast side of<br />
<strong>Tobago</strong>, the Roxborough Visitor Service<br />
Co-op office is the entrance, where<br />
you can hire a guide. Butterflies, birds<br />
and bromeliads can be seen along the<br />
trail that leads to the falls. If you are<br />
adventurous, climb up the steep path<br />
on the right to the second level of the<br />
falls. Bathe in the natural “rock tubs”.<br />
At the highest level, the pool is deep<br />
with vines overhead that are perfect<br />
for swinging (carefully). There’s a<br />
changing area, and gumboots for hire.<br />
Wear comfy, good-gripping shoes,<br />
sunscreen, and bring bug spray and<br />
a towel. Admission $60 adults, $30<br />
<br />
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COURTESY RADICAL SPORTS<br />
*<br />
*<br />
More thrills and spills in the water:<br />
Kite-surfing, kite-boarding, kayaking,<br />
stand-up-paddling, surfing, sailing...<br />
If these are your thing, head to Pigeon<br />
Point, Mt Irvine, Charlotteville, and<br />
Little Rockly Bay. Radical Sports:<br />
631-5150, radicalsportstobago.com<br />
Being with horses (Buccoo): If you<br />
love animals, the sea, and have a soft<br />
spot for rescued horses with moving<br />
back-stories, then you’ll want to<br />
check out Being With Horses. Run by<br />
German-born Veronika La Fortune and<br />
her husband Lennon, they offer sunset<br />
swim-ride sessions, trail rides, picnic<br />
rides, and horseback weddings.<br />
639-0953, being-with-horses.com<br />
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JONATHAN GOMEZ<br />
Many of the dive sites here are drift dives,<br />
which means that you just go with the<br />
flow — literally. You adjust your buoyancy<br />
to follow the current; keep in mind the<br />
dive briefings; and follow the dive master.<br />
If you’ve never tried drift diving, don’t worry. Most of the<br />
dive centres offer a course that will prep you, plus PADI<br />
certification (Open Water, Advanced and Rescue Diver).<br />
Contact a member of the Association of <strong>Tobago</strong> Dive Operators<br />
(ATDO, tobagoscubadiving.com), like Undersea <strong>Tobago</strong><br />
(631-2626, underseatobago.com).<br />
Diving: kingdom of the corals<br />
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Flying Reef (in the south) has huge plate coral<br />
colonies, nurse sharks and stingrays. Divers Dream is<br />
recommended for experienced divers because of the<br />
strong current. Pelagics hang out along the ledges and<br />
overhangs.<br />
On the Caribbean side of the island, the wreck of<br />
the M/V Maverick sits at 33m/100ft. Once the passenger<br />
ferry between <strong>Trinidad</strong> and <strong>Tobago</strong>, it was sunk as a<br />
dive site in April 1997. Snappers and rainbow runners<br />
scamper in the shadows of the car deck. Schools of bait<br />
fish frolic on the upper deck (depth of 18m/60ft). Arnos<br />
Vale is a shallow dive (maximum 13m/40ft) that yields<br />
lobster, eels and torpedo rays in the sand.<br />
The Sisters (northwest) are rock pinnacles that rise<br />
from the depths of the seabed, attracting hammerheads<br />
and manta rays. London Bridge, which is off the St Giles<br />
Islands in the northeast, is a treasure trove of tarpon,<br />
turtles and sharks — even octopus (check the holes in<br />
the rock face). Boulder Valley (off Charlotteville, at the<br />
mouth of Man O’ War Bay) has huge sponge and coralencrusted<br />
boulders, like giant marbles strewn across a<br />
fantastically coloured carpet.<br />
Most of the dives off Speyside are drift dives along<br />
sloping reefs around Little <strong>Tobago</strong> (aka Bird of Paradise<br />
Island) and Goat Island. Kelleston Drain is home<br />
to the largest living brain coral in the world; you may<br />
spot a nurse shark taking a nap below it. Thousands<br />
of bicolour damselfish flit among vase sponges, purple<br />
pope sponge and green algae in the Japanese Gardens.<br />
A hard right turn between two large rocks and the current<br />
will take you through Kamikazee Cut. This reef<br />
is covered with brightly coloured sponges and corals.<br />
Seemingly unending soft coral growth sprouts from the<br />
granular white sand on the reef top. Check under the<br />
ledges for nurse sharks.<br />
Water temperatures range from 75°F (24°C) in January<br />
and February to 82°F (28°C) mid-year. Most divers<br />
find that 3mm neoprene is sufficient thermal protection<br />
year round.<br />
This page: the bearded fireworm, while pretty to look at, is a<br />
voracious predator and can give a swimmer a nasty sting<br />
Previous page: the aggressive Red lionfish (spotted here at<br />
Culloden Reef) is an invasive species that arrived in <strong>Tobago</strong><br />
waters in 2012. It can decimate native reef populations if not<br />
kept in check. Good news though: they’re delicious!<br />
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Diving: kingdom of the corals<br />
LYNSEY ALLAN /SHUTTERSTOCK.COM<br />
discovertnt.com<br />
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Game fishing is fantastic here, with the main offshore<br />
season lasting from October to June. Anglers<br />
can expect to do battle with blue marlins,<br />
white marlins, swordfish, wahoo, tuna, barracudas,<br />
mahi-mahi (dolphin-fish) and sharks.<br />
Large game fish migrate south for the winter and chase the<br />
schools of small flying fish, which love the warm Caribbean<br />
waters.<br />
112<br />
In peak season (November),<br />
wahoo are so<br />
plentiful anglers are kept<br />
busy from dawn to dusk.<br />
Typical catches range between<br />
30 and 65lb; you<br />
could be lucky and nab<br />
one of the half dozen<br />
100-pounders caught every<br />
year.<br />
Marlin can weigh up<br />
to 1,200lb at the northwestern<br />
end of the island,<br />
just a couple of miles<br />
offshore (between Sisters<br />
Rocks and the Giles<br />
Islands). An annual tournament<br />
is held in Charlotteville<br />
in March (tgft.com,<br />
632-6608). International<br />
anglers should book well<br />
in advance.<br />
A typical half-day<br />
offshore charter can cost<br />
discovertnt.com<br />
Plenty of fish in the sea<br />
you US$350–$500, which<br />
includes refreshments<br />
and tackle. Reputable<br />
game fishing charters operate<br />
a catch and release<br />
programme where most<br />
billfish are tagged and<br />
then set free, rather than<br />
gaffed and killed.<br />
PROJECT1PHOTOGRAPHY /SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
Though fewer in number than <strong>Trinidad</strong>, the<br />
nesting turtles in <strong>Tobago</strong> are much easier to<br />
get to. Hundreds of giant leatherbacks and<br />
hawksbills nest on three main beaches —<br />
Turtle Beach, Mt Irvine and Grafton. Hawksbills<br />
nest in great numbers near the Magdalena Grand.<br />
A giant leatherback turtle<br />
heaves her bulk out of the<br />
water to nest<br />
Ancient<br />
mariners<br />
March–September is nesting season for the leatherbacks<br />
who may come from as far away as Australia to<br />
nest on the beach where they were born. Their hatchlings<br />
will emerge six to eight weeks later and head<br />
for the sea. Green turtles and hawksbills inhabit the<br />
coastal waters year-round, and you can spot them foraging<br />
for food on the reefs and sea grass beds.<br />
Many resorts on nesting beaches can notify you<br />
either when nesting turtles have been sighted, or<br />
when clutches of baby turtles are ready for release.<br />
For tours and information, contact SOS <strong>Tobago</strong> (Save<br />
Our Sea Turtles <strong>Tobago</strong>, 328-7351), or a reputable<br />
tour guide. You can become a volunteer and join SOS’<br />
efforts in tagging turtles, counting nests, and rescuing<br />
disoriented hatchlings. You must commit to a minimum<br />
of four weeks.<br />
discovertnt.com<br />
*<br />
*<br />
COURTESY TDC<br />
THINGS TO<br />
REMEMBER<br />
Do not touch or disturb<br />
nesting turtles<br />
or hatchlings. Try to<br />
be quiet and unobtrusive,<br />
and do not use<br />
flashlights or flash<br />
photography. Lights,<br />
noise and activity can<br />
disorient both turtles<br />
and hatchlings<br />
Do not drive on nesting<br />
beaches — the<br />
weight of the vehicle<br />
can crush eggs buried<br />
in the sand.<br />
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CHRIS ANDERSON<br />
<strong>Tobago</strong> is small enough for much of it to be seen<br />
in a day, especially if you start out early. Tour<br />
operators offer a range of full-day and half-day<br />
tours, plus specialised itineraries based on your<br />
interests. For eco tours and adventures, make<br />
sure to book with a registered tour operator or guide (see<br />
visittobago.gov.tt). For easy day trips and sightseeing — if<br />
you feel confident on the road — you could rent a vehicle,<br />
pick up a <strong>Discover</strong> T&T map, and go exploring on your own!<br />
Here are a few of our favourites.<br />
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Fort King George<br />
Scarborough’s crowning glory, this 18th century fort<br />
was the perfect location to keep a lookout for the<br />
many invaders who fought over this island. The restored<br />
colonial-era buildings (pictured) offer spectacular<br />
views of Rockly Bay, the town of Scarborough,<br />
Bacolet Bay and the windward coast. You can sit on<br />
one of the benches under the giant samaan trees or<br />
saddle one of the cannons that line the stone walls.<br />
The officers’ quarters now contain the <strong>Tobago</strong><br />
Museum where you will find a collection of Amerindian<br />
artifacts, maps from the 1600s, military relics,<br />
paintings, and a small geology exhibit. Original<br />
buildings include the powder magazine, bell tank,<br />
lighthouse and cells. Opening hours: Monday–Friday,<br />
9am–4:30pm. Admission to the museum: adults TT$10,<br />
teens TT$5, children TT$2. No entrance fee to the fort.<br />
Tel: 639-3970<br />
If you like forts, here are two more:<br />
Fort Milford: built in 1777, a perfect spot for<br />
* watching the sun dip below the horizon on the<br />
Caribbean coast<br />
Fort Bennett: look out over Stonehaven Bay from<br />
a little pavilion.<br />
*<br />
Sightseeing<br />
& day trips<br />
discovertnt.com<br />
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FARAAZ ABDOOL<br />
Corbin Local Wildlife Park<br />
In Mason Hall, conservationist Roy Corbin has built a<br />
wildlife sanctuary that houses many of <strong>Tobago</strong>’s endangered<br />
animals — boa constrictors, agoutis (including a<br />
rare albino), opossums, green iguanas, collared peccary<br />
(which is nearly extinct in <strong>Tobago</strong>), and the spectacled<br />
caiman. Enclosures are big and as natural as possible.<br />
Corbin breeds and reintroduces as many of the animals<br />
as possible back into the rain forests. You may even<br />
have the honour of releasing an endemic possum or<br />
manicou into the wild! You are allowed to go close and<br />
touch the animals; you’ll also learn about the uses of<br />
the native trees on the grounds. Climb to the top of the<br />
trail and enjoy the spectacular view from the verandah<br />
of his house. <br />
<strong>Tobago</strong> Cocoa Estate<br />
Sold by Fortnum & Mason’s in the UK, <strong>Tobago</strong> Cocoa<br />
Estate’s chocolate is made exclusively from our highly<br />
acclaimed Trinitario beans. This plantation (near Roxborough)<br />
is a heritage park where you can learn about the<br />
history of cocoa on the island and see how it is grown,<br />
picked, and dried — and enjoy rum and chocolate-tasting<br />
session at the end. Scheduled tours December–April<br />
are on Fridays at 11am, and by appointment only May–<br />
November. info@tobagococoa.com, 390-2021<br />
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Sightseeing & day trips<br />
This page: a rescued, orphaned<br />
nine-banded armadillo at Corbin<br />
Local Wildlife Park<br />
Opposite: a Red-billed tropicbird<br />
swoops into her nest on the<br />
cliffs of Little <strong>Tobago</strong>
Little <strong>Tobago</strong><br />
An absolute must for birders, Little <strong>Tobago</strong> is<br />
a remote little island where Sir David Attenborough<br />
filmed frigatebirds hijacking tropicbirds<br />
for their fish in mid-air. You can take a<br />
glass-bottomed boat from Speyside (at<br />
Blue Waters Inn), and on the way you<br />
can stop off to see the brain coral and<br />
the Japanese Gardens. In fact, Angel<br />
Reef is perhaps the island’s finest<br />
coral reef.<br />
The climb up the island is not<br />
very strenuous but there are lots of steps.<br />
As there are no rivers or streams, the guides<br />
ensure that water is caught or brought for<br />
the birds in feeders placed around the island.<br />
It’s best to go between April and September,<br />
as the water can get rough October–March.<br />
Dress sensibly with good walking shoes<br />
(sandals not advised), and carry water. You<br />
can go snorkelling afterwards!<br />
RAPSO IMAGING<br />
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COURTESY TDC<br />
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The picturesque fishing village<br />
of Parlatuvier is a favourite of<br />
photographers and visitors<br />
Sightseeing & day trips<br />
discovertnt.com<br />
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Top left: a White-tailed sabrewing hummingbird,<br />
once thought extinct in <strong>Tobago</strong>, at Newton<br />
George’s Gallery, Speyside<br />
Top right: Blue-backed manakins at Gilpin Trace<br />
Bottom: a Rufous-vented chachalaca<br />
or cocrico (<strong>Tobago</strong>’s national bird), in Speyside<br />
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Above: Ruddy turnstones<br />
This picture: Blue-grey tanager<br />
or blue jean at Newton George’s<br />
Gallery<br />
PHOTOS BY RAPSO IMAGING<br />
For the birders<br />
discovertnt.com<br />
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Cuffie River Nature Retreat<br />
This rainforest retreat near Runnemede<br />
is nestled among untouched forests and<br />
mountains bordering the Main Ridge Forest<br />
Reserve. A popular base for birders<br />
(up to 80 species sighted) and nature<br />
lovers, the family-run eco-lodge is remote<br />
yet modern and a pioneer in sustainable<br />
tourism. You can go on nature<br />
hikes with a very knowledgeable guide<br />
who will explain everything about the island’s<br />
birds, agriculture, wildlife, and medicinal<br />
plants. <br />
The Cuffie River which meanders alongside the<br />
Cuffie River Nature Retreat<br />
JOANNE HUSAIN<br />
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Main Ridge Forest Reserve<br />
The Main Ridge is the backbone of <strong>Tobago</strong>, a spine that<br />
runs across two thirds of its surface to a height of 876m<br />
(1,890ft). This 14,000-acre reserve, protected since 1776<br />
and the oldest in the western hemisphere, is home to 210<br />
species of birds, including the rare white-tailed sabrewing<br />
hummingbird, which is endemic to <strong>Tobago</strong>. Venezuela<br />
is the only other place in the world where it is found.<br />
One third of the birds that nest here are endemic, as is<br />
the ocellated gecko, which is not found anywhere else in<br />
the world. The reserve’s 10,000 acres of evergreen rain<br />
forest have been designated by UNESCO as being of Outstanding<br />
Universal Value.<br />
You can drive through the reserve. If you want to<br />
walk through, the most famous of the trails starts at<br />
Gilpin Trace (5km). You may spot yellow sugar birds,<br />
blue-backed manakins, red and green-collared trogons,<br />
white-necked thrushes, motmots (they nest in clay),<br />
great black hawks, and a range of other wildlife (a<br />
dozen mammals, two dozen non-poisonous snake species,<br />
and 16 lizard species), and get a chance to splash<br />
in beautiful waterfalls. The Gilpin trail is fantastic as a<br />
family outing. Small children will enjoy learning about<br />
the rain forest. The hike is easy and you can rent rubber<br />
boots if it’s muddy and wet. Other popular treks are the<br />
Atlantic, Blue Copper, and Niplig trails.<br />
Crested oropendola nests<br />
Just about everywhere<br />
you go, you will see<br />
up in the branches of<br />
tall trees the hanging<br />
nests of the crested<br />
oropendola or cornbird<br />
(pictured below). These<br />
architectural wonders<br />
are painstakingly woven<br />
with vines and banana<br />
fibres. The nests can be<br />
3–6ft long. The birds live<br />
in colonies, so you may<br />
see more than a dozen of<br />
these nests in one tree.<br />
The female takes 9–11<br />
days to make her nest.<br />
The male will watch her<br />
work, and if he doesn’t<br />
like what he sees, he<br />
tears it apart so she has<br />
to start again...<br />
RAPSO IMAGING<br />
For the birders<br />
discovertnt.com<br />
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Grafton Caledonia Bird & Wildlife Sanctuary<br />
Devastated by a hurricane in the ‘70s, this was once a<br />
beautiful retreat. Still, in the afternoons from 4pm, you<br />
can see lots of cocricos (<strong>Tobago</strong>’s national bird), hummingbirds,<br />
honeycreepers and motmots close up. The<br />
approach is steep and unsurfaced but for birders, it will<br />
be worth the effort.<br />
One of the cottages at the<br />
Adventure Farm & Nature<br />
Reserve<br />
RAPSO IMAGING<br />
Adventure Farm & Nature Reserve<br />
Like manna from heaven, mangoes rain<br />
down on this 12-acre estate in Arnos Vale,<br />
where they are lovingly made into juice,<br />
ice-cream and chutneys. Savour sublime<br />
soursop juice made from soursop grown<br />
right on the estate. In this haven of sustainable<br />
tourism, nothing is wasted and<br />
52 species of birds can be seen — motmots,<br />
hummingbirds (the rare and fragile<br />
For the birders<br />
albino hummingbird has been seen here),<br />
bananaquits, and red-crowned woodpeckers.<br />
They flutter and buzz around<br />
the hanging feeders, or eat bananas in<br />
a luxury birdhouse at very close range.<br />
Herbs from the garden are used to prepare<br />
meals. Everything is powered by<br />
solar energy. Open from 7am Monday–<br />
Saturday, 639-2839<br />
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Blue Food Festival<br />
Dasheen and other root crops take centre stage each October in Bloody Bay, L’Anse<br />
Fourmi, and Parlatuvier as these villages pay homage to the versatility and utility of<br />
“blue food”. Some varieties of dasheen can turn blue or indigo when cooked, hence the<br />
term — which now is used to describe all root crops, including sweet potato, cassava,<br />
and yam. For the festival, all of the dasheen plant is used to prepare bread, cookies<br />
and sweets, ice-cream, and even lasagne! A culinary competition and cultural shows<br />
are also highlights.<br />
Festivals & events<br />
Carnival<br />
The Carnival pre-season kicks off<br />
early before Christmas, with a<br />
launch featuring a street parade<br />
in Scarborough of traditional mas<br />
characters (including speech bands<br />
— a cast of costumed characters<br />
who speechify in rhyme). The first<br />
party is the Soca Spree, typically<br />
with Machel Montano as the headline<br />
act, followed by events like<br />
Soca Under the Samaan Tree; the<br />
<strong>Tobago</strong> House of Assembly’s Interdepartment<br />
Queen and Calypso<br />
Show; and the Roxborough Afro-<br />
Queen & Windward Calypso Show. If<br />
nothing else, make sure to visit the<br />
discovertnt.com<br />
COURTESY THE DIVISION OF TOURISM & TRANSPORT<br />
Dancers of the cultural group<br />
ZANTE perform the limbo and<br />
bamboo dances<br />
panyards of <strong>Tobago</strong>’s top<br />
steelbands, like Dixieland,<br />
Redemption Sound Setters,<br />
and Katzenjammers.<br />
Come J’ouvert (very early<br />
Carnival Monday morning)<br />
in Scarborough, mud<br />
mas is the focal point.<br />
Later in the day and on<br />
Tuesday, “ole mas” and<br />
costumed bands take<br />
over the streets of Scarborough<br />
and Roxborough.<br />
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Meet a Calypso Rose<br />
Born in Bethel, Linda MacArthur “Calypso<br />
Rose” Lewis was the first woman to win<br />
the national Road March title in 1977<br />
(“Tempo”) and 1978 (“Soca Jam”), forcing<br />
the Calypso King competition to be<br />
renamed Calypso Monarch when she<br />
danced away with the 1978 crown. In 2016,<br />
she was named Artist of the Year at the<br />
prestigious World Music Expo (WOMEX) in<br />
Spain, and in 2017 won the Victoire de la<br />
Musique (or “French Grammy”) for Album<br />
of the Year in France. A documentary<br />
film has been made<br />
about her: Calypso Rose:<br />
Lioness of the Jungle.<br />
calypso-rose.com<br />
COURTESY STONETREE RECORDS/MATURITY<br />
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Festivals & events
Carnival Regatta<br />
The “festival of wind” is held at Pigeon<br />
Point near to Carnival (typically February),<br />
featuring four sailing categories:<br />
Optimists and Bum Boat sailing, dynamic<br />
Windsurf, and Kite-Surfing classes. Peak<br />
sailing time is the dry season (December–<br />
May), with stronger and more consistent<br />
winds. <br />
Dragon Boat Festival<br />
Each June at Pigeon Point, senior and<br />
junior teams from T&T compete over a<br />
weekend for dragon boating supremacy.<br />
Count on good food and music too.<br />
Goat & Crab Racing Festival<br />
Each Easter, Buccoo hosts the Family Day<br />
and Goat & Crab Races (pictured below).<br />
The animals hurtle down a special 110m<br />
(360ft) track to the finish line, hustled<br />
on by barefoot “jockeys” who sprint behind<br />
their charges, holding the colourfully<br />
attired goats on long ropes, and the<br />
crabs on short strings. Beforehand, the<br />
goats are given special diets and training<br />
regimens (including swimming) to<br />
build stamina. The showdown happens<br />
each Easter Monday and Tuesday at Mt<br />
Pleasant, as well as Buccoo (the main location).<br />
There’s a repeat at the Heritage<br />
Festival (July).<br />
PIOTR ANDREWS<br />
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COURTESY THE DIVISION OF TOURISM & TRANSPORT<br />
Great Fete Weekend<br />
This annual party fest takes place in<br />
late July/early August. Five straight<br />
nights of partying until dawn at Pigeon<br />
Point and other locations, with DJs,<br />
sound systems and live entertainment.<br />
Be mindful of turtles and turtle nests<br />
as you party, as southwest beaches are<br />
turtle nesting ones!<br />
This page: The Speechettes of Scarborugh RC School in a traditional<br />
speech band performance, where costumed characters speechify in<br />
rhyme. It’s popular at Carnival and during Heritage Festival<br />
Opposite: 3canal performs at the <strong>Tobago</strong> Jazz Experience<br />
Great Race<br />
First held in 1969, each August this speedboat<br />
race (about 185km/115 miles) starts<br />
at the Port of Spain waterfront early in<br />
the morning and ends in Scarborough<br />
two to three hours later. Naturally, a rollicking<br />
beach party ensues.<br />
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Heritage Festival<br />
This festival (mid-July until 1 August) is<br />
a glimpse into the past — to experience<br />
the old cultural traditions and rituals<br />
that make this island what it is. Events<br />
take place across the island in various<br />
villages such as Plymouth and Moriah —<br />
storytelling, ancestral walks, long-time<br />
games, harvest traditions, historical reenactments<br />
(like the ol’ time wedding,<br />
“washing the dead bed”, and “dancing<br />
the cocoa”). Help the fishermen “pull<br />
seine” on the beach, and you may be rewarded<br />
with some fresh catch. There’s<br />
also pirogue racing, beach football and<br />
seafood breakfast on offer.<br />
Heritage tours<br />
The Scarborough Heritage Trail and<br />
a church tour were introduced last<br />
year to promote conservation. The<br />
Scarborough trail starts at the Milford<br />
Road Esplanade and ends at Fort King<br />
George, while the church tour takes in<br />
Mt Pleasant Anglican church, Montgomery<br />
Moravian Church, Riseland,<br />
the Bethel Baptist Church, and Bethesda<br />
Moravian Church.<br />
COURTESY THE DIVISION OF TOURISM & TRANSPORT<br />
<strong>Tobago</strong> Jazz Experience<br />
Each April, jazz takes over with events (some free) in Speyside, Signal Hill, Scarborough,<br />
Castara, and Pigeon Point. The event showcases some of the best in local and<br />
regional music alongside international stars. John Legend, Jill Scott, Jennifer Hudson,<br />
Kool & the Gang, Angie Stone, Janelle Monae, Chaka Khan, Elton John, Stevie Wonder,<br />
Mary J Blige, Sting, Diana Ross, Erykah Badu, India.Arie, George Benson, Lauryn Hill,<br />
Heather Headley, Jill Scott, and Maxwell have all performed in the past.<br />
discovertnt.com<br />
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Cycling: International professional<br />
competitors are drawn to the International<br />
Cycling Classic (September/<br />
October).<br />
Golf: There are two 18-hole, championship-standard<br />
golf courses which<br />
host international tournaments. Mt<br />
Irvine Bay Resort has a 127-acre,<br />
6,793-yard course set in an old sugar<br />
and coconut plantation overlooking<br />
the Caribbean Sea. <strong>Tobago</strong> Plantations<br />
Golf Club (660-8500), also<br />
established on a former sugar cane<br />
estate, is a par-72, 7,005-yard course<br />
with stunning Atlantic Ocean views.<br />
*<br />
discovertnt.com<br />
Sports<br />
Mountain biking: There are easy<br />
coastal tracks; tours taking in historical<br />
sites, waterfalls, and beaches<br />
(some not accessible by car); and<br />
intense treks into the mountainous<br />
Main Ridge … Mountain Bike Magazine<br />
called the island a “mountain<br />
biker’s island paradise”. Make sure<br />
to ride with a guide. Mountain Biking<br />
<br />
332-5872
CHRIS ANDERSON<br />
A surfer at Mt Irvine<br />
*<br />
*<br />
Surfing: Peak time is November–April,<br />
but swells can kick up during the<br />
hurricane season too. Lessons and<br />
board rentals are available at Mt<br />
Irvine, which is where the T&T Surfing<br />
Association (surftt.org) holds the<br />
<strong>Tobago</strong> Pro Open event. Bacolet is<br />
another popular spot.<br />
Triathlon: Competitions and training<br />
events, such as the Rainbow Cup<br />
international triathlon (mid-year),<br />
are held throughout the year. T&T<br />
<br />
The Rainbow Triathlon Club: 632-5560<br />
discovertnt.com<br />
Local heroes<br />
*<br />
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*<br />
*<br />
*<br />
Lalonde Gordon: 2017 World Championship<br />
gold medallist (4x400m<br />
relay); 2012 Olympic bronze (men’s<br />
400m) and silver (men’s 4x400m<br />
relay) medallist<br />
Josanne Lucas: the island’s first<br />
female World Championship medallist<br />
(400m hurdles, 2009)<br />
Claude Noel: Roxborough native<br />
and the nation’s first boxing World<br />
Champion, lifting the WBA’s World<br />
Lightweight title in 1981. The island’s<br />
highway is named after him<br />
Renny Quow: the island’s first<br />
medallist (bronze) in the men’s<br />
400m at the World Championships<br />
(2009)<br />
Akeem Stewart: double 2017 World<br />
Para Athletics gold medallist (shot<br />
put and javelin), 2016 Paralympic<br />
gold (javelin) and silver (discus)<br />
medallist; and world record holder<br />
for javelin F44 and shot put F43<br />
Dwight Yorke: football star and<br />
leading striker for UK teams like<br />
Manchester United and Aston Villa;<br />
captained the national team to an<br />
impressive debut at the 2006 World<br />
Cup in Germany, where T&T made<br />
history as the smallest country<br />
ever to qualify.<br />
131
Map Key (applies to all maps)<br />
Police Station<br />
Gas Station<br />
Waterfall<br />
Hospital<br />
Bird Watching<br />
Sailing & boat tours<br />
Turtle Nesting<br />
Golf Course<br />
Fort<br />
Shopping Centre<br />
Scuba Diving<br />
Airport<br />
Lighthouse<br />
Place of interest<br />
Surfing<br />
Beach with<br />
Restrooms<br />
Food Available<br />
Swamp<br />
Caves<br />
Highway<br />
Museum<br />
Planned<br />
Highway<br />
Lifeguard on Duty<br />
Major roadway<br />
Englishman's Bay<br />
Parla<br />
Ba<br />
nglis<br />
Castara Bay<br />
Parr<br />
King Peter's Bay<br />
Castara<br />
ra<br />
Store Bay<br />
Ft Milford<br />
Pigeon Pt<br />
Crown Point<br />
N<br />
BUCCOO REEF &<br />
NYLON POOL<br />
Bon Accord<br />
Lagoon<br />
Mt Irvine Bay<br />
Buccoo<br />
Bay<br />
Milford Rd<br />
Stonehaven Bay<br />
ANR Robinson<br />
Intl Airport<br />
Canoe Bay<br />
Turtle Beach<br />
Great Courland Bay<br />
Shirva n Rd<br />
Ft Bennett<br />
Arnos Vale Bay<br />
Black Rock<br />
Patience Hill<br />
Mt Irvine<br />
Buccoo Signal Hill<br />
Gulf City<br />
LOWLANDS<br />
Plymouth<br />
Bethel<br />
Culloden Bay<br />
Arnos<br />
Vale<br />
Grafton Sanctuary<br />
Claude Noel Highway<br />
Plymouth Rd<br />
Lambeau<br />
Little Rockly<br />
Bay<br />
Culloden<br />
Les Coteaux<br />
Adventure<br />
Farm & Nature<br />
Reserve<br />
Rockly<br />
Bay<br />
Northside Rd<br />
Scarborough<br />
Mall<br />
Moriah<br />
Mt Dillon<br />
Runnemede<br />
Mason Hall<br />
Craig Hall<br />
Mt St George<br />
Ft King George<br />
Bacolet Bay<br />
Bacolet Point<br />
Cuffie River Natu<br />
Retreat<br />
Barbados Bay<br />
Hil<br />
bad<br />
SCARBOROUG<br />
132<br />
discovertnt.com
St Giles Islands<br />
Sisters<br />
Rocks<br />
Man-o'-<br />
War Bay<br />
Pirate's<br />
Bay<br />
Flagstaff Hill<br />
hman's Bay<br />
Parlatuvier<br />
Bay<br />
Parrot Hill<br />
Bloody Bay<br />
Parlatuvier<br />
MAIN RIDGE FOREST RESERVE<br />
L'Anse Fourmi<br />
fie River Nature<br />
Argyle<br />
Roxborough<br />
Retreat<br />
Falls<br />
Hillsborough Dam Rainbow<br />
Bellevue<br />
Waterfall Belle Garden<br />
Prince's Bay<br />
Richmond<br />
Richmond<br />
Great House<br />
Carapuse Bay<br />
Glamorgan<br />
Richmond<br />
Pembroke<br />
Island<br />
W i n d wa r d R d<br />
Delaford<br />
King's Bay<br />
<strong>Tobago</strong><br />
Cocoa<br />
Estate<br />
Charlotteville<br />
King's Bay<br />
Delaford<br />
Bay<br />
Speyside<br />
Blue<br />
Waters<br />
Tyrrel's<br />
Bay<br />
Goat<br />
Island<br />
Little <strong>Tobago</strong><br />
os Bay<br />
OROUGH<br />
Pinfold Bay<br />
Granby Point<br />
Goldsborough<br />
Goodwood<br />
<strong>Tobago</strong> Map<br />
discovertnt.com<br />
133
Authentic festivals<br />
and events, A unique history,<br />
Tropical rain forest, Exhilarating<br />
watersports, uncrowded beaches,<br />
revitalized chocolate industry<br />
and amazing eco-holidays.<br />
LIVE THE CULTURE,<br />
style<br />
for more info visit www.tobagostyle.travel