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En Voyage - Issue #8

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<strong>En</strong> <strong>Voyage</strong><br />

Nine nautical miles separate Guernsey and Sark,<br />

but travelling this short distance transports you into<br />

another world. It’s like going back in time in the best<br />

way: with no cars, you can walk or cycle around<br />

the island with only the odd tractor or horse-drawn<br />

carriage to look out for. And at night, you couldn’t<br />

ask for a better place for a spot of stargazing.<br />

The Isle of Sark Shipping Company operates a<br />

passenger ferry service from the Inter Island Quay<br />

in St Peter Port to Sark, with several sailings a day in<br />

peak season and a reduced winter service with daily<br />

boats from Monday to Saturday. Tickets can be bought<br />

online, by telephone or from the White Rock office in<br />

Guernsey, and the journey takes just 55 minutes.<br />

If you’re staying overnight, make sure your luggage is<br />

labelled, hop on the ‘Toast Rack’ transport up to the<br />

Village – or walk up the hill through the woods – and<br />

your bags will be delivered to your accommodation.<br />

There is so much to discover on this small island and<br />

it helps to know a little about its fascinating history,<br />

which dates back to the Stone Age. It’s thought that<br />

the Romans inhabited Sark, possibly for a few<br />

hundred years, and it’s certain that the missionary<br />

St Magloire landed on the island around 560AD; he<br />

is credited with founding a monastery on the site still<br />

known as La Moinerie. Sark’s long association with<br />

the <strong>En</strong>glish Crown dates back to 1066 when William<br />

the Conqueror defeated <strong>En</strong>gland. The strategic<br />

importance of Sark’s location in the Channel has<br />

meant it has long been the subject of close attention<br />

from the French: following its occupation by a French<br />

naval force in 1549, which was eventually expelled,<br />

the Seigneur of St Ouen from Jersey, Helier de<br />

Carteret, moved to the island to deter further attacks.<br />

In 1565 Elizabeth I granted him the feudal title of<br />

fief; this royal recognition formally established the<br />

constitutional basis which exists in Sark to this day.<br />

THERE IS SO MUCH TO<br />

DISCOVER ON THIS SMALL<br />

ISLAND AND IT HELPS TO<br />

KNOW A LITTLE ABOUT ITS<br />

FASCINATING HISTORY<br />

SARK'S DARK SKIES<br />

SARK VENTURE<br />

SARK PRISON<br />

SEIGNEURIE GARDENS<br />

IMAGES COURTESY OF VISITGUERNSEY<br />

IMAGE COURTESY OF SARK.CO.UK<br />

Sark is alleged to be the smallest independent feudal<br />

state in Europe and to have the last feudal constitution<br />

in the western world, although international Human<br />

Rights legislation has led to major changes to the<br />

island’s inheritance and tax laws. Whilst not strictly<br />

speaking a sovereign state, under a unique status the<br />

Seigneur holds the island for the <strong>En</strong>glish monarch.<br />

The beautifully tended Seigneurie Gardens have been<br />

open to the public since the 1850s and displays in<br />

the newly renovated chapel tell the story of Sark’s<br />

Seigneurs through the ages. The Gardens also have a<br />

maze, old cannons – including a bronze cannon sent<br />

to Helier de Carteret from the Tower of London by<br />

Queen Elizabeth – and the original carp ponds of<br />

St Magloire’s monks. There’s even a dovecote, an apple<br />

crusher and a small pet cemetery, commemorating<br />

Dame Sybil Hathaway’s beloved cats and dogs.<br />

HORSE-DRAWN CARRIAGE<br />

VENUS POOLS<br />

IMAGE COURTESY OF SARK.CO.UK<br />

24 <strong>En</strong> <strong>Voyage</strong> | Aurigny’s Magazine

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