Tokyo Weekender - December 2017 - January 2018

December 2017 - January 2018 

WAYS TO 

EXPERIENCE 

THE BEST OF 

JAPAN 

From Temple Stays to 

Ukiyo-e Classes 

TOKYO’S 

CINEMATIC 

VISTAS 

Lukasz Palka is 

The Light Chaser 

PLUS: A-Z of 2017, the Snowboard Pro Turned Gravure Idol, and Japanese Hairstyles Through the Ages

24 

16 30 

36 

radar 

THIS MONTH’S HEAD TURNERS 

8 AREA GUIDE: IKEBUKURO 

This vast entertainment district has more 

to offer than you think. 

10 STYLE: FESTIVE FASHION 

All you want for Christmas and a happy 

New Year. 

12 TRENDS: JAPANESE CRAFTSMAN- 

SHIP MEETS NORDIC DESIGN 

Hygge up your home life. 

in-depth 

COFFEE-BREAK READS 

16 THE A-Z OF 2017 

We reflect on the biggest and strangest 

stories of the past year. 

20 JAPANESE HAIRSTYLES THROUGH 

THE AGES 

How nihongami has evolved and been 

shaped by cultural changes from past 

to present. 

22 FROM SNOWBOARD PRO TO 

GRAVURE IDOL 

What made Melo Imai turn her back on the 

sport she grew up with and seek out 

a career as a tarento instead? 

24 LIGHT CHASER 

Lukasz Palka has spent a decade capturing 

Tokyo’s cinematic vistas. 

29 33 WAYS TO EXPERIENCE THE BEST 

OF JAPAN 

This issue’s special 18-page section provides 

plenty of inspiration and ideas for ways 

to discover the heart of the country, from 

temple stays to Ukiyo-e classes. 

guide 

CULTURE ROUNDUP 

50 ART & BOOKS 

Marimekko’s daring prints and bold designs; 

contemporary artists’ unique takes on 

Doraemon; and a trio of books to get you 

through the long winter. 

52 AGENDA 

A Christmas market at Yokohama Red Brick 

Warehouse; an igloo dinner on Andaz Tokyo’s 

rooftop terrace; and one of the prettiest 

winter illuminations. 

54 SOCIETY 

Tokyo's longest-running social column. 

58 SIX WAYS TO DEVOUR TOKYO 

A few dishes every traveler should have on 

their menu when visiting the city. 

DEC 2017 - JAN 2018

DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 

Publisher 

President 

Executive Producer 

Editor in Chief 

Senior Editors 

Creative Director 

Designer 

Features Writer 

Contributors 

Sales Director 

Sales Executives 

Marketing Director 

Media Consultant 

Media Producers 

ENGAWA Co., Ltd. 

Takanobu Ushiyama 

Naoya Takahashi 

Annemarie Luck 

Alec Jordan 

Lisa Wallin 

Liam Ramshaw 

Rose Vittayaset 

Matthew Hernon 

Vivian Morelli 

Bill Hersey 

Bunny Bissoux 

Stephan Jarvis 

Takaaki Murai 

Hirofumi Ohuchi 

Kahori Terakawa 

Azusa Yoshida 

Jessica Yumi Idomoto 

Mary Rudow 

Claudia Sun 

Yuda Chou 

Cover Photo by Lukasz Palka 

EST. Corky Alexander, 1970 

SSU Bld. 1F 4-12-8 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku 

Tokyo, Japan 151-0051 

(03) 6432-9948 / (03) 6438-9432 (fax) 

info@engawa.global 

To subscribe to Tokyo Weekender, please visit 

www.tokyoweekender.com/subscribe 

For ad sales inquiries, please call 

(03) 6432-9948 or email: 

info@engawa.global 

広告に関するお問い合わせ先 

電話 :(03) 6432-9948 

メール:info@engawa.global 

Opinions expressed by Weekender contributors 

are not necessarily those of the publisher 

Published by ENGAWA Co., Ltd. 

4 | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | TOKYO WEEKENDER

@bapawn: Hey Annemarie, last month’s issue really 

had me wanting to travel, but I have to admit I’ve got 

an even worse case of wanderlust now. 

@mizrama: Me too. Getting out of Tokyo and 

experiencing what lies beyond is one of the best ways to 

get to know the real Japan [page 30]. Although, saying 

that, I took a class in traditional Japanese painting [page 

45] in Omotesando the other day and it was fascinating. 

@bapawn: Yes, even though I’m fantasizing about 

heading on an extended temple retreat out to Eiheiji 

[page 38] and following it up with a visit to some 

secluded onsen ryokan [page 36], it’s nice to know 

there’s so much waiting around within Tokyo city 

limits, whether it’s visiting sake breweries [page 42] or 

extracting my own pearls [page 43]. 

@mizrama: This is the thing about Tokyo, isn’t it – 

whether you’re looking for traditional experiences or 

you’re “chasing the light” like our cover photographer 

Lukasz Palka [page 24], there is always inspiration in 

unexpected places. 

@bapawn: Even in Ikebukuro [page 8]. 

@mizrama: 

@bapawn: But seriously, though, the city is full of spots 

that inspire or put you in a reflective mood. I could 

while away at least a couple of hours running through 

all the things that happened in Japan this year [page 16]. 

@mizrama: It was another fairly strange year, hey? I 

can’t decide what was more alarming: an LDP politician 

calling her secretary “baldy” or Haruki Murakami 

missing on a Nobel nod yet again. 

@bapawn: And who knows what 2018 will bring … Any 

predictions for the Year of the Dog? 

@mizrama: Breaking News: Tsukiji Market Will Not 

Move After All. 

@bapawn: And Man Buns Go Extreme with Sumo Style 

Cuts. [Inspiration on page 20.] 

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TOKYO WEEKENDER | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | 5

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WHAT’S ON OUR RADAR... 

We’re uncovering the real Ikebukuro, feeling playful with festive fashion, 

and putting the hygge into our home life. 


AREA GUIDE 

UNCOVER 

THE REAL 

IKEBUKURO 

Words and photographs by Stephan Jarvis 

Often overlooked and derided as “the gateway 

to Saitama,” this vast entertainment district 

has more to offer than you think – you just 

need to know where to look 

THE MAIN ATTRACTIONS 

For the average visitor, the biggest 

draws of Ikebukuro are its 

vast array of Bic Camera stores, 

game centers, department stores 

such as Seibu and Tobu, HUB 

pubs (there are five scattered 

across both sides of the station), 

Sunshine-dori (which over 

the years has seen an invasion 

of more familiar high-street 

brands) and, of course, the 

Sunshine City entertainment 

complex. However, there’s more 

to Ikebukuro than just these 

main attractions. 

A PATCH OF GREEN 

One of the newer and more 

welcome additions is the lush, 

green-grassed Minami Ikebukuro 

Park, which reopened 

in 2016 after extensive renovations. 

A common complaint for 

many living in Tokyo is the lack 

of green spaces (at least, ones 

that you’re allowed to sit on). 

It might not win any awards for 

size, but along with free seating 

benches and the onsite Racines 

bistro, serving a range of 

freshly cooked cuisine including 

barbecues when the weather is 


MALAYCHAN IS 

ONE OF THE FEW 

PLACES IN TOKYO 

THAT’S HALAL 

CERTIFIED 

Cross under the tracks to the west side and 

the vibe changes somewhat. A little more 

downtrodden than the east, this area caters 

more to those that want to do some drinking 

with their eating. The pedestrianized side 

streets and clusters of izakayas, hostess bars 

and so on can make it feel a little like a sibling 

of the Kabukicho area of Shinjuku. 

The plaza on the north-west side exit of 

the station, home to the Tokyo Metropolitan 

Art Space, is a popular place for people to 

meet up or just hang out. It can look a little 

bit on the rough side due to the presence of 

homeless shelters gathered on the far side, 

but there’s generally a friendly atmosphere 

around the place, and there are often popup 

stalls and cultural events taking place during 

weekends and holidays so it’s worth checking 

ahead to see what might be going on. 

Just over the road is West Gate Park, 

which, despite once being viewed as an 

area to avoid, features the famed Malaysian 

restaurant Malaychan on its perimeter. 

One of the few places in Tokyo that’s halal 

certified, this eatery’s fish soup curry is well 

worth a try. 

good, this is a great spot to relax and take a 

breather. 

Didn’t bring a book to read? Just around 

the corner from the park is the perfect site 

to go and pick one up. Even with today’s 

one-click ease of online shopping, a good 

bookstore catering to English reading clientele 

is always a welcome feature for a city, and 

Junkudo has a particularly impressive selection. 

Up on the ninth floor (which also acts as 

a gallery for featured artists) you can find a 

range of classic and modern literature, books 

for kids, specialist material, and magazines. 

RAMEN, BURGERS & HALAL CURRY 

Of course, good food is also an appealing 

feature of many spots across Tokyo, and Ikebukuro 

is no exception. There are numerous 

highly rated ramen restaurants scattered 

around such as the top-notch Basso Drillman, 

though expect to queue for those with a more 

established reputation. If ramen isn’t for you, 

then stop by Darcy’s Beer & Burger and grab 

a supersized cola to accompany the impressively 

sized signature burger. 


STYLE 

JIMMY CHOO PUMPS 

’Tis the season to be sparkly, and these Jimmy Choo 

heels are the ultimate holiday party companion. 

Covered in double-sided gold and silver sequins, they’ll 

take you from Christmas to New Year – and everywhere 

in between. If you feel hesitant about splurging on such 

a festive pair of shoes that aren’t too office appropriate, 

rest assured: they can be dressed down with a pair of 

dark skinny jeans and a simple white shirt. 

jimmychoo.com 

FASHION 

VALENTINO BRACELET 

If you’re looking for a simple, reasonably priced 

accessory that still makes a statement, this Valentino 

bracelet is just what you need. Adorned with the Italian 

label’s signature pale-gold studs, this slim number is 

cut from high-shine silver leather, adding just a bit of 

punk rock to your look. Wear it on a daily basis stacked 

next to your watch, or save it for special occasions 

paired with a little black dress. 

valentino.com 

All you want for Christmas and 

a happy New Year 

Compiled by Vivian Morelli 


SAINT LAURENT SWEATER 

This number is a chic version of the classic Christmas sweater – it’s plush, 

colorful, and you’ll want to wear it pretty much daily. Crafted in Italy from 

a soft mohair blend fabric, it’s shaggy and cozy, yet sophisticated enough 

to wear to an event. It is also part of the collection designed by Anthony 

Vaccarello, who recently took over as creative director of Saint Laurent, 

and we can definitely feel the Italian influence in this piece. 

ysl.com 

JAEGER-LECOULTRE WATCH 

If you’re ready to invest in a timepiece that will take you through 

the next several decades, look no further than Jaeger-LeCoultre, the 

Swiss watchmaker known for intricacy and expertise. We love their 

sleek and simple styles, and this Master Calendar model, with its 

romantic moon phase and 18-karat rose gold case, encompasses 

everything that makes JLC such a cult brand. 

jaeger-lecoultre.com 

BALMAIN DRESS 

No matter where in the world you 

spend the holidays, you’ll need 

that one go-to dress you can wear 

to every function you’re invited to, 

including and not limited to endof-the-year 

office parties, family 

get-togethers, and nights out with 

friends. We think this dress has it 

all: it’s got long sleeves (because 

who wants to wear sleeveless 

dresses in the winter?), and it 

combines velvet, crystals and gold 

eyelets (ideal for a celebration). 

Keep it simple with elegant black 

heels and no accessories. 

balmain.com 

GUCCI BOOTS 

It’s no secret that Gucci is experiencing a huge comeback 

lately – their collections over the past few years are just 

so beautiful, and good luck trying to get your hands on 

their most coveted items before they sell out. These boots 

are a perfect example of the Gucci aesthetic, combining 

80s punk undertones with more traditional brogue 

perforations, and tiger-head buckles. Keep them in the 

spotlight and pair them with jeans or black trousers and 

a simple shirt. Or go all out and wear head-to-toe, tigeremblazoned 

Gucci. gucci.com 


TRENDS 

JAPANESE 

CRAFTSMANSHIP 

MEETS NORDIC 

DESIGN 

HYGGE UP YOUR HOME LIFE TO HELP FIND YOUR 

IGOKOCHI AT KURASHI NO KATACHI 

HYGGE MEETS IGOKOCHI 

Beyond the furniture itself, Kurashi no 

Katachi connects the Danish concept of hygge 

and the Japanese igokochi (“comfortable 

life”). These life philosophies may be similar, 

on the surface, but rather they complement 

each other, and have been used to create the 

ultimate comfort zone in our homes. By moving 

away from mindless consumerism and 

focusing on a few beautifully made products, 

you can “edit” your home life into a happier, 

more comfortable one. By using high quality 

tools, a craftsman can create better art. In the 

same way, expensive tableware can enhance 

the appearance of your food, in turn making 

it taste better – the same concept applies to 

furniture. Surround yourself in understated 

luxury to create a home environment you can 

truly feel at home in. 

In a meeting of minds, design and culture, 

Kurashi no Katachi (“The Form of 

Living”) opened in August 2017 to give 

homage to understated luxury. The showroom, 

inside LIVING DESIGN CENTER 

OZONE, combines two previous exhibits 

– Nippon Form and Nordic Form – and 

introduces the best facets of Japanese and 

Nordic design, woven together seamlessly. 

HARMONY IN DESIGN 

Both Japan and the Nordic countries have 

long traditions of treasuring furniture and 

other interior items, taking care of them so 

that they can be passed on to the next generation. 

Mixing the two may seem difficult, but 

the simplicity of design from both regions 

works surprisingly well – so well, in fact, that 

you may not know which item is originally 

from where. Here you’ll find wooden furniture 

by Børge Mogensen and Hans J. Wegner 

perfectly paired with Japanese traditional 

lacquerware items, or decorated with washi 

paper umbrella accessories and lanterns. 


[ PROMOTION ] 

WHAT’S ON 

AT OZONE 

TRADITION FOR ETERNITY 

Everyone lives such different lifestyles – there 

is no right or wrong in interior design, as 

people are free to choose what works for 

them. By combining both Nordic and Japanese 

designs, as well as mixing and matching 

vintage and modern pieces, Kurashi no 

Katachi strives to meet the needs of people 

with a range of backgrounds and tastes. 

Even so, they can confidently give one piece 

of advice: choose items that will last generations. 

By this, they don’t simply mean a piece 

of furniture that is well made: instead, choose 

something that is high quality and has a simple 

design. Minimalist, understated elegance 

is always in style. This is where Nordic and 

Japanese designs excel – and Kurashi no Katachi 

boasts an exceptional selection of both 

in interior accessories and furniture. 

Two events to help you find 

the best way to create a cozy 

home this winter 

GIFT – GIVE 

A GIFT TO 

A SPECIAL 

PERSON OR 

INDULGE 

YOURSELF 

As another 

year comes to an end, it’s a time to look 

back at the hardships we faced and 

the joy we received. Show gratitude to 

friends and family for their support by 

finding them the perfect gift. Or reward 

yourself for all you’ve accomplished 

by indulging with a little bit of luxury 

in your daily life. Kurashi no Katachi 

has curated an exclusive selection 

of presents for these purposes. Here 

you’ll find practical, beautifully made 

items, such as a high-quality wool 

blanket, and delicate “letter” lanterns 

made from washi paper that can 

be custom-designed (find the artist 

within and send a loved one a personal, 

hand-painted beacon of light for their 

home). Nov 30-Jan 5, Kurashi no Katachi, 

5F OZONE 

CLASSIC 

FURNITURE 

COLLECTION 

2018 

Discover the 

very best of 

the golden age 

of Scandinavian design in this vintage 

collection of 1950s and 1960s furniture. 

Kurashi no Katachi has curated 

an exclusive selection of furniture 

for the year to come. Over 160 items 

will be on display, including dining 

tables and nesting tables, cabinets and 

bookshelves, interior accessories such 

as candle holders, and more. There will 

also be an exclusive selection of Royal 

Copenhagen plates and cups available 

for purchase. Jan 25-Mar 13, Kurashi no 

Katachi, 5F OZONE 

STANDARD OF THE FUTURE 

Staff at Kurashi no Katachi choose each individual item in the showroom with the utmost care, 

following a policy of predicting “the standard of the future.” This means they strive to create a 

personal connection between the individual and their chosen furniture that goes beyond just 

liking the design. To do this, they gather vintage favorites and pair them with new, innovative 

designs to show how well they match and to help fuel customers’ imaginations for their own 

homes. Furniture should always have the possibility of being mended, allowing pieces to be 

lovingly used for a long time. 

LIVING DESIGN CENTER OZONE 

Address: 3F-7F Shinjuku Park Tower, 

3-7-1 Nishishinjuku, Shinjuku-ku 

Web: www.ozone.co.jp/eng 


Looking for a great place to eat, shop, sleep or play in Tokyo? Welcome to Weekender's 

roundup of recommended restaurants, hotels, stores, salons and more. Here, we share 

this month's editor's picks, but for the full lineup – as well as reader discounts and 

special offers – simply head to www.tokyoweekender.com/the-concierge 

Elana Jade Club 360 

In need of some pampering? Elana Jade offers a range of deluxe 

beauty treatments that will have you looking beautiful from 

head to toe. All products used in our organic skincare lines are 

delivered by internationally trained and experienced therapists. 

Special offer: Enjoy a Polish Manicure for ¥4,000, valid until 

January 31, 2018. 

Club 360 is Tokyo’s premier fitness and rehabilitation 

center, offering personal training as well as treatment for 

sports injuries, musculoskeletal and spinal conditions, 

and rehabilitation programs in a spacious and private 

setting. Club 360 also offers sports massage. Special offer: Book 

in on any Monday and receive the “Massage Monday” special 

discount. 

HEALTH, BEAUTY & FITNESS | EDITORS CHOICE 

www.elanajade.com 

03-6453-9319 

www.club360.jp 

03-6434-9667 

B1 Cma3 Building, 3-1-35 Motoazabu, Minato-ku 

HEALTH, BEAUTY & FITNESS | EDITORS CHOICE 

4F NS Azabu Juban Building, 3-6-2 Azabu Juban, Minato-ku 

ABOUT TOWN | EDITORS CHOICE 

Fujimoto 

Dental Clinic 

At this Ginza-based clinic, which was 

founded in 1981, you’ll not only receive 

world-class specialist restorative 

and periodontal dental care, but you’ll 

also be in the expert hands of Dr Kohei Fujimoto. 

He is fluent in English, a graduate of the 

University of Washington’s Graduate Periodontics 

Program, and certified as a Diplomate of the 

American Board of Periodontology. Appointments 

can be made via phone. 

www.fujimoto-dental.com 

03-5551-0051 

4F Kami-Pulp Kaikan, 3-9-11 Ginza, Chuo-ku 


PAST, PRESENT, FUTURE 

We bid farewell to 2017, look at how Japanese hairstyles have evolved through the ages, and 

give an admiring nod to the futuristic cinematic vistas of our favorite city. 


AS WE BID FAREWELL TO 

ANOTHER YEAR AND WELCOME 

A FRESH START, WE REFLECT 

ON THE BIGGEST AND 

STRANGEST STORIES 

OF THE PAST YEAR 

Words by Matthew Hernon 

ANTI-CONSPIRACY LAW 

SPARKS FEARS OVER 

CIVIL LIBERTIES 

After being delayed three times 

due to widespread public opposition, the 

controversial anti-conspiracy law that gives 

authorities the right to prosecute those who 

plan crimes even if they don’t carry them out, 

came into effect in July. According to the government, 

the bill was necessary for Japan to 

become a party to the UN Convention against 

Transnational Organized Crime and in order 

to protect its citizens leading up to the 2020 

Olympics. Critics, however, have called it 

an abuse of power and an unconstitutional 

attack on freedom of expression, while also 

taking issue with the inclusion of lesser 

crimes such as copying music and mushroom 

picking in conservation areas. 

BLACK WIDOW SENTENCED 

TO DEATH BY HANGING 

Chisako Kakehi, who used cyanide 

to murder her husband and two 

former lovers, and attempted to kill another 

man, will now face the executioner herself. 

Dubbed the “Black Widow” (a term derived 

from the female spider that sometimes eats 

its mate after copulation), she reportedly 

inherited around one billion yen from the 

death of her partners. Judge Ayako Nakagawa 

described the 70-year-old’s actions as “cunning 

and malicious,” stating that she had “no 

choice but to impose the ultimate penalty of 

death.” At one stage Kakehi admitted to killing 

her husband, but lawyers said the testimony 

couldn’t be trusted as she had dementia. 

CHEATING ACCUSATION GOES 

VIRAL FOLLOWING AC- 

TRESS’S YOUTUBE RANT 

A public spat between celebrity 

couple Kazuyo Matsui and Eiichiro Funakoshi 

caused quite a stir this summer with 

the former accusing her actor husband of 

adultery. She even uploaded a six-minute 

video in English to reach out to a larger 

audience. The 60-year-old actress claimed 

Funakoshi was having an affair with her 

best friend in Hawaii while also saying he 

couldn’t have sex without Viagra, had fake 

hair, and was after her money. Funakoshi’s 

agency, HoriPro, announced they’d taken 

legal action against Matsui for defamation 

and business obstruction. 

DEMOCRATIC PARTY 

IMPLODES: LDP SAILS TO 

VICTORY 

A few days after Prime Minister 

Abe called a snap election, leader of the 

opposition Seiji Maehara disbanded the 

Democratic Party, encouraging candidates 

to run under the Party of Hope led by Yuriko 

Koike. However, the Tokyo governor rejected 

liberal and left-leaning members of the DP, 

so Yukio Edano, the face of Japan during the 

2011 nuclear crisis, formed the Constitutional 

Democratic Party. With the competition 

fragmented, the LDP and coalition partner, 

Komeito, strolled to victory at the general 

election, garnering a two-thirds majority. 

The CDP became the largest opposition force 

in the Diet, winning 54 seats, while the Party 

of Hope won just 49. Koike later resigned as 

leader. 

EMPEROR AKIHITO GIVEN 

PERMISSION TO ABDICATE 

CHRYSANTHEMUM THRONE 

In June, the Japanese government 

passed a one-off bill giving the emperor permission 

to stand down from a position he’s 

held for almost three decades. He will become 

the first monarch to renounce the throne 

since Emperor Kokaku back in 1817. The 

Heisei Era is expected to end on March 31, 

2019, with Crown Prince Naruhito succeeding 

to the throne the following day. In other royal 

news, Princess Mako, eldest granddaughter 

of the emperor, announced her engagement 

to former classmate Kei Komuro. As he is a 

commoner, she will be forced to quit the 

royal family. 

FUJII FEVER SWEEPS THE 

NATION 

The Japanese public fell back in 

love with shogi this year when 

14-year-old school boy Sota Fujii went on a 

29-game winning streak, breaking a record 

that stood for three decades. Interest in the 

teen intensified with each victory, and by 

the end of the historic 29th game there were 

reportedly 7.4 million viewers watching 

on Ameba TV’s shogi channel. Fujii, who 

learned the basic rules of the game from his 

grandmother, turned professional at 14 years 

and two months. His first official win came 

against legendary figure Hifumi Kato, the 

game’s oldest pro, who this year retired after 

a career spanning six decades. 

GRUELLING WORK 

SCHEDULE CAUSES 

REPORTER’S DEATH 

NHK this year revealed that one 

of its former employees died from karoshi 

(death from overwork). Journalist Miwa 

Sado, 31, passed away from congestive heart 

failure in 2013, though the public broadcaster 

decided to wait four years to make the 

death public because her parents originally 

wanted it kept quiet before changing their 

minds this summer. Sado did 159 hours and 

37 minutes of overtime in one month covering 

a regional and national election. She was 

found collapsed on her bed holding a mobile 

phone. Japan is planning to cap overtime 

at 100 hours a month, though many believe 

that is still too excessive. 


HAWKS DOWN DENA TO WIN 

JAPAN SERIES 

A ding-dong battle between 

Fukuoka SoftBank Hawks and 

Yokohama DeNA Baystars ended in dramatic 

fashion as Keizo Kawashima hit a sayonara 

single in the 11th inning of the sixth game to 

clinch the Series 4-2 for the Pacific League 

champions. Having lost the first three matches, 

DeNA fought back bravely and looked set 

to make it 3-3 overall until the bottom of the 

ninth when Hawks tied the game. Pitcher 

Dennis Sarfate was named MVP. The Hiroshima 

Carp clinched their second successive 

Central League championship, but lost to 

DeNa in the Climax Series. 

ISHIGURO RECEIVES NOBEL 

PRIZE IN LITERATURE AS MU- 

RAKAMI MISSES OUT AGAIN 

After awarding the Nobel Prize in 

Literature to Belarusian journalist Svetlana 

Alexievich in 2015, and Bob Dylan in 2016, 

the Swedish Academy decided to go down the 

more traditional route this year, giving the 

accolade to Remains of the Day and Never Let 

Me Go author Kazuo Ishiguro for novels that 

“uncovered the abyss beneath our illusory 

sense of connection with the world” and were 

driven by a “great emotional force.” The British 

writer’s accomplishment was celebrated 

in Nagasaki where he was born, but not by 

everyone in Japan. For Harukists – ardent 

fans of Haruki Murakami – the long wait 

goes on. 

-ALERT WARNING SYSTEM 

CAUSES CONFUSION IN 

NORTHERN JAPAN 

In the space of a month, North Korea 

launched two missiles over Japan, 

triggering the J-Alert system. In numerous 

prefectures in the north of the country, warnings 

blared out from loudspeakers, messages 

were sent to mobile phones, and regular TV 

programs were interrupted. Citizens were 

told to take cover in a sturdy building or 

escape underground; however, in many areas 

there are no such places nearby, so residents 

were confused as to what to do. Some complained 

that the warning area was too vast, 

causing panic in cities that clearly wouldn’t 

be affected. 

KIRYU BREAKS NEW 

GROUND WITH SUB-10 

SECOND RUN 

It’s been a good year for Japanese 

sprinters. At the Athletics World Championships 

in London, 18-year-old Sani Brown 

raced into the record books, overtaking Usain 

Bolt as the youngest ever finalist in the men’s 

200 meters. In the 4x100 meters relay, Shuhei 

Tada, Shota Iizuka, Yoshihide Kiryu and Kenji 

Fujimitsu came in third behind winners Great 

Britain and the United States, giving Japan its 

first medal of the championships. A month 

later, Kiryu became the first Japanese runner 

to break the 10-second barrier in the 100 

meters, clocking 9.98 seconds at an intercollegiate 

meet in Fukui. 

LDP LAWMAKER PHYSICAL- 

LY AND VERBALLY ABUSES 

“BALDY” SECRETARY 

Harvard graduate Mayuko Toyota 

was forced to resign from the Liberal Democratic 

Party after weekly magazine Shukan 

Shincho released an audio file of her in a car 

yelling insults at her secretary. Referring to 

him as hage (“baldy”), she screams about 

him damaging her reputation while the man 

apologizes and pleads with her not to hit him 

while he’s driving. According to the magazine, 

in a separate incident she had threatened 

to crush his head with a lead pipe. Under 

pressure from LDP leaders, Toyota agreed to 

leave the party and was then hospitalized due 

to her unstable condition. 

MORITOMO AND KAKE 

SCANDALS DAMAGE 

ABE’S REPUTATION 

In February it was reported 

that Moritomo Gakuen, an ultra-nationalist 

Osaka-based school operator, had been given 

permission to construct a new elementary 

school on a government-owned tract of land. 

The price was just ¥134 million, over ¥800 million 

less than the appraisal value, and Japan’s 

first lady Akie Abe was listed as the honorary 

principal. As a result, accusations of favoritism 

were levelled at the government. Three 

months later, the prime minister was again on 

the defensive as he was accused of helping his 

friend Kotaro Kake win approval for a private 

veterinary school. Despite there being no actual 

evidence of cronyism, Abe’s approval rating 

sank to an unprecedented low of 26 percent. 

NINJA BURGLAR, 74, NABBED 

AFTER EIGHT-YEAR CRIME 

SPREE 

Always dressed in black with a 

neck warmer pulled up to his nose and a hood 

down to his eyes, the Ninja Burglar had the agility 

to run on top of roofs and squeeze through 

tight spaces. For eight years he managed to 

avoid capture, stealing cash and goods worth 

around ¥30 million, but his luck finally ran 

out this spring when the neck warmer he was 

wearing slipped, revealing to security cameras 

the face of senior citizen Mitsuaki Tanigawa. “If 

I were younger, I wouldn’t have been caught,” 

he was quoted as saying. “I’ll quit now as I’m 74 

and old enough.” 

OKINOSHIMA GRANTED 

WORLD HERITAGE STATUS 

A sacred religious island in Japan 

that bans women and requires 

men to strip naked before entering was this 

year declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

Okinoshima, along with three nearby reefs and 

four related locations, joined the country’s 20 

other natural sites already recognized by the 

United Nations cultural agency. Thousands of 

artifacts, brought over as gifts from abroad, 

can be found on the remote island, including 

gold rings and swords. Visitors must undergo a 

cleansing ritual upon arrival, are not permitted 

to take anything away with them and must 

never speak of the trip. 

POP PRINCESS SET TO CALL IT 

QUITS 

Considered music royalty in Japan, 

Namie Amuro has amassed 14 number 

one singles and sold over 35 million records 

in a career spanning a quarter of a century. To 

the surprise and disappointment of her many 

fans she announced on her 40th birthday this 

autumn that she would be retiring in 2018. Her 

last ever album, Finally, a compilation of 52 

songs spanning her entire career, was released 

in November and sold over one million copies 

in its first week. She is the only Japanese artist 

to reach the million selling mark in her teens, 

20s, 30s and 40s. 

QUALITY CONTROL LAPSES 

HARM “JAPAN BRAND” IMAGE 

Once the envy of the world, Japanese 

manufacturing companies 

have long been known for their meticulous 

attention to detail and concepts such as kaizen 

(continuous improvement). This year, however, 

many major corporations in the country have 

made headlines for all the wrong reasons. In 

January, three Takata Corporation executives 

were sued because of the company’s defective 

airbags. A few months later, Takata filed for 

chapter 11 in the US and bankruptcy protection 

in Japan. In the automobile industry, meanwhile, 

it was uncovered that Subaru and Nissan 

had conducted inspections by uncertified staff, 

while Kobe Steel Ltd. revealed that it falsified 

data related to the strength and durability of 

some aluminum and copper products used in 

aircrafts and cars. 


RACIST TWEET OVERSHAD- 

OWS SATO’S INDY 500 

TRIUMPH 

Ex-Formula One driver Takuma 

Sato this year became the first ever Asian 

driver to win the Indianapolis 500, the event 

popularly known as “the greatest spectacle in 

racing.” Unfortunately, his victory was slightly 

marred by a tweet sent by The Denver Post 

journalist Terry Frei who wrote, “Nothing specifically 

personal, but I am very uncomfortable 

with a Japanese driver winning the Indianapolis 

500 during Memorial Day weekend.” 

After a backlash, the columnist apologized, 

stating that his father had been a veteran of 

World War II. But the damage had been done 

and he was fired by the newspaper. 

SEX CRIME LAWS 

FINALLY AMENDED 

AFTER 110 YEARS 

In what is the first major overhaul 

in more than a century, Japan’s penal code 

stipulating tighter sentences against sexual 

crimes went into effect this summer. Revisions 

include raising the minimum sentence 

for rapists from three to five years as well 

as the removal of a provision that requires 

victims of sexual crimes to press charges in 

order to prosecute. It also broadened the 

definition of rape to include oral and anal 

sex. In May, journalist Shiori Ito called a press 

conference, telling reporters that she had 

been raped by a high-profile TV reporter, but 

he was never prosecuted because of what she 

claims was a flawed investigation. 

TORRENTIAL RAIN BATTERS 

KYUSHU, KILLING 36 

In early July, several cities were 

badly damaged as the heaviest 

rainfall on record hammered the southwestern 

island of Kyushu. The downpour was caused by 

a phenomenon known as senjo kosuitai (linear 

rainbands) in which bands of giant cumulonimbus 

clouds remain stationary in the air for 

several hours. It triggered widespread flooding, 

and landslides were reported in several areas. 

Over 400,000 people were forced to evacuate 

their homes as parts of Fukuoka Prefecture 

were hit with 774mm of rain in just nine hours. 

Thirty-six people died as a result of the disaster. 

UNKO KANJI DORIRU 

AUTHOR MAKES A 

FORTUNE FROM POO 

A series of six kanji study books 

featuring 3,018 sentences that all include the 

word “poo” has proved a massive hit this 

year, selling more than two million copies 

in its first three months. Released in March, 

Unko Kanji Doriru (Poo Kanji Drills) attempts 

to give children a more enjoyable learning 

experience by associating kanji characters 

with a word they all seem to love. “Adults 

would raise their eyebrows, but for children, 

the word ‘poo’ is magical and makes things 

fun,” author Yusaku Furuya told Kyodo News. 

Japanese kids are expected to be able to read 

and write 1,006 kanji characters by the time 

they finish primary school. 

VANILLA AIR APOLOGIZES 

TO DISABLED MAN FORCED 

TO CRAWL UP STEPS 

Informed that he wasn’t allowed 

to board a flight back to his hometown of 

Osaka from the southern island of Amami 

because there was no wheelchair access, 

disabled-rights activist Hideto Kijima decided 

to get on the plane anyway by crawling up a 

portable boarding staircase. The budget airline, 

which is owned by All Nippon Airways, 

apologized to the passenger and announced 

that it had ordered an electric wheelchair 

lift for its planes from Amami following the 

incident. On his Facebook page, Kijima received 

both support and criticism, with some 

accusing him of unfairly targeting the airline 

or making unreasonable demands. 

WORLD CUP QUALIFICA- 

TION SECURED FOR 

SAMURAI BLUE 

Japan qualified for its sixth 

consecutive World Cup after beating Australia 

2-0. Under pressure going into the game, 

coach Vahid Halilhodzic’s decision to play a 

relatively youthful side, dropping high-profile 

players such as Shinji Kagawa, Shinji Okazaki 

and Keisuke Honda, paid off. In club football, 

Rafael Silva was the hero as Urawa Reds became 

the first J-League side in 10 years to win 

the Asian Champions League. The Brazilian 

striker scored in both legs of the final as the 

Saitama-based club defeated Saudi Arabia’s 

Al-Hilal 2-1 on aggregate, earning them a 

place at the Club World Cup alongside Real 

Madrid in December. 

XIANG XIANG CHOSEN AS 

THE NAME OF JAPAN’S 

NEWEST PANDA 

Following a record 322,581 

suggestions from the public, Tokyo governor 

Yuriko Koike announced that Ueno Zoo’s 

latest main attraction would be called Xiang 

Xiang, 100 days after the panda was born to 

mother Shin Shin and father Ri Ri. The name, 

which means either “fragrance” or “popular” 

in Chinese, received 5,161 submissions. Her 

parents arrived in Tokyo in 2011 and gave 

birth to a male cub a year later. It was the 

zoo’s first panda delivery in 24 years, but sadly 

he died of pneumonia after just six days. 

Xiang Xiang is expected to make her public 

debut in December. 

YOKOZUNA HARUMAFUJI 

INJURES FELLOW WRES- 

TLER IN KARAOKE BRAWL 

Grand sumo champion Harumafuji 

is set to be referred to prosecutors after 

assaulting lower-ranked wrestler Takanoiwa 

following a drink-fueled altercation in Tottori. 

The renowned Mongolian Yokozuna admitted 

to striking his fellow countryman with his 

fists and a remote control, but denied using 

a bottle in the attack. It’s the latest in a long 

line of scandals that have engulfed the sport 

in recent years, and occurred at a time when 

sumo was regaining popularity. In January, 

Kisenosato delighted Japanese fans by becoming 

the first homegrown wrestler to attain the 

rank of Yokozuna in 19 years. 

ZAMA SERIAL KILLER SUS- 

PECT ALLEGEDLY HID BODY 

PARTS IN COOLERS 

Takahiro Shiraishi admitted to the 

police that he murdered nine people, all aged 

between 15 and 26, before dismembering their 

bodies at his small apartment in Zama, Kanagawa 

Prefecture. The unemployed 27-year-old 

allegedly contacted females via Twitter, telling 

them he would assist with their suicides, and 

then killed them shortly after they met. He has 

also confessed to rendering them unconscious 

and hanging them with a rope. The killing 

spree reportedly lasted two months. Shiraishi 

told officers that he took three days to 

dismember his first victim before slaying her 

boyfriend who had tracked him down. 


JAPANESE 

HAIRSTYLES 

THROUGH THE AGES 

We take a look at how nihongami has evolved and been shaped by 

cultural changes throughout the history of Japan 

Nihongami literally translates to “Japanese hair” 

and covers the various hairstyles from the Kofun 

period (250-538) to the early Showa period (1926- 

1989). Early Japan was strongly shaped by Chinese 

culture, but by the Heian period (794-1185) noble 

courts rejected these influences. Heian aristocrats were notably 

particular about their fashion, and their beauty standards 

were exceptionally high. Women grew out their hair and wore 

it straight in the style depicted in the famous illustration from 

The Tale of Genji. Washing the hair was an arduous task, especially 

since noblewomen could barely 

move in their 12 layers of kimono – attendants 

had to do most of the work. 

After the Heian period, hairstyles slowly 

became more elaborate – we’ll skip to the 

Edo period (1603-1868), which was a golden 

era for nihongami. During this time, the 

vast number of hairstyles recorded through 

ukiyo-e prints and other materials was unprecedented. 

This era saw the rise of merchants 

and merchants’ wives who drove 

popular fashion, as they had the means and 

the time to spend on such frivolities. Samurai 

and their families had status and controlled 

the government, but were limited 

financially. 

The shimada was one of the many styles that became 

popular (of which there are multiple types) but it generally 

featured wide parts to the sides by the ears and was pulled 

up into a bun at the top or back. Each type of hairstyle was a 

visible indicator of a woman’s status or role in society – a widow 

would carry a different coif from a young unwed girl. Hair 

accessories and combs would be inserted into the hair, making 

Words by Lisa Wallin. Illustrations by Bunny Bissoux 

EACH TYPE OF 

HAIRSTYLE 

WAS A VISIBLE 

INDICATOR OF A 

WOMAN’S STATUS 

OR ROLE IN 

SOCIETY 

them very heavy – especially if extra hairpieces to add volume 

were inserted. These hairstyles were meant to last for several 

days – even up to a week – and were held in place by wax. 

Similar styles can be seen on modern geisha and maiko, 

though they have an even broader range of designs. One of 

the most elaborate styles – known as hyogo – spreads the hair 

bun at the back into a butterfly shape. Courtesans wearing this 

style during the Edo period would also shave the hair at their 

temples and forehead to form a widow’s peak. 

With the Meiji Restoration (1868), a rush towards Western 

trends and styles drew forth, especially visible 

in the Taisho, and Showa periods that 

followed. Men drove the change in fashion 

and hair at this point – leaving behind status 

symbols like the chonmage (topknot) 

hair of samurai and favoring shorter cuts 

and mustaches. Women were more restricted, 

but slowly started changing too – 

first with their hair, and then by postwar 

Showa eventually shedding the kimono as 

daily wear. 

Though the traditional nihongami style 

technically ended with the Showa period 

– it’s a style almost synonymous with the 

wearing of kimono – young Japanese people 

have continued to find creative ways to 

express themselves through their hair. The 1980s bubble era 

cuts and waves, as well as the 1990s spiked host hair (that lasted 

well into the 2000s!) are still clear indicators of those time 

periods. Currently, trends are leaning towards more unisex 

and androgynous looks, with more daring color palettes for 

both men and women. What will the next chapter of modren 

nihongami look like? Only time will tell. 



WHAT MADE MELO IMAI TURN HER BACK ON THE 

SPORT SHE GREW UP WITH AND SEEK OUT A 

CAREER AS A TARENTO INSTEAD? 

Words by Matthew Hernon

The PyeongChang Winter Olympics 

is just two months away and team 

Japan will be hoping for much 

better results than they managed at 

the Turin Games in 2006. Back then 

there was only one shining light as Shizuka 

Arakawa became the first individual from 

this country to win a gold medal in figure 

skating. It was a memorable achievement 

that was celebrated up and down the land. 

The years of vigorous training, early mornings 

and strict dieting had all been worth it 

as the elegant skater realized her lifelong 

dream. 

As for the rest of the Japanese competitors, 

there was little to get excited about. Expectations 

were high going into the Games, 

yet just one athlete managed to make the 

podium. Among those tipped to challenge for 

a medal was 17-year-old snowboarder Melo 

Imai in the halfpipe competition. She had 

made remarkable progress since becoming 

a professional aged just 12 and was in good 

form going into the event, but in the end 

finished last in the qualifying round after injuring 

her torso and abdomen. The contrast 

between the youngster and the successful 

Arakawa could not have been any starker. 

While the latter cried tears of joy, Imai was a 

blubbering wreck. 

Despite still being in her teens, it was effectively 

the end of what had looked like an 

extremely promising career. She competed 

again and won at the Takasaki Cup in 2008, 

but her heart wasn’t really in it. The physical 

pain she was able to recover from, but the 

mental anguish went much deeper. The 

youngster grew to resent snowboarding and 

everything it represented. The fun element 

had gone. It was simply about winning and 

the pressure had become insufferable. 

“For many athletes the Olympics is the 

pinnacle of their career, but for me it was a 

nightmare,” Imai tells Weekender. “I don’t 

just mean because I got injured and failed to 

progress. The whole experience was terrible. 

Leading up to the Games I had this constant 

fear of failure, like a choking feeling. It was 

the same throughout my career.” 

The feeling that she constantly needed 

to please her father was one of the main 

reasons for the stress, especially in the early 

days. “I knew if I lost he would be angry,” 

recalls Imai. “When I won he would compliment 

me, and that was my motivation. 

I wasn’t doing it for myself at all. He was 

delighted that I qualified for the Olympics; 

however, in the months leading up to the 

Games I stopped contacting him. I thought 

that would give me a new lease on life, but 

I was then winning tournaments and not 

feeling anything. I started to question what 

it really meant to be number one. Even if I’d 

finished first in Turin, I don’t think I would 

have been satisfied. I wish I hadn’t gone.” 

Imai began snowboarding at the age of 

seven along with her nine-year-old brother 

Dome Narita. They had been encouraged 

to take up the sport by their father Takasha 

Narita, who founded a snowboarding 

club in Japan after being impressed by a 

kids’ school he took them to in Canada. His 

children quickly became the star pupils, and 

Narita pushed them hard so they would be 

able to reach their potential. 

It soon had the desired effect. At the 

age of 14, Imai became the world junior 

halfpipe champion, and in the build-up to 

LEADING UP TO THE GAMES I HAD THIS 

CONSTANT FEAR OF FAILURE, LIKE A CHOKING 

FEELING. IT WAS THE SAME THROUGHOUT 

MY CAREER 

the 2016 Olympics she defeated a number 

of top contenders including eventual silver 

medalist Lindsey Jacobellis. From the outside 

she looked like a carefree teen living 

the dream, but the reality was somewhat 

different. Training sessions were tough with 

an emphasis on discipline and hard work 

rather than enjoyment, and away from the 

snow there was little respite. 

“We would often go to Nagano to 

practice, and work on our technique with a 

trampoline at our home in Osaka,” recalls 

Imai. “Training would usually start at 5am 

and sometimes I wouldn’t be finished until 

11 at night. Dad said we should be constantly 

focusing on snowboarding, so I didn’t 

have to attend school. As a result, I didn’t 

get much of an education.” 

She also wasn’t allowed a social life. “My 

hair was short, and I always wore training 

pants,” says the former Olympian. “I didn’t 

have the opportunity to be like other girls, 

wearing make-up, going to karaoke, shopping 

with friends and so on. I envied people 

my age having the freedom to do the kind of 

things that are considered normal for most 

teenagers. It just wasn’t an option for me as 

I felt I couldn’t disobey my father.” 

Eventually it all became too much. She 

broke off ties with the man who had got 

her into snowboarding in the first place, 

and changed her name from Narita to her 

mother’s maiden name of Imai. Her brother 

had stopped working with his father months 

earlier. Dome, who is now a minor celebrity 

in Japan, was also seen as a genuine 

contender for a medal in Turin, but like his 

sister failed to qualify for the final. He continued 

competing for another year before 

turning his back on the sport following an 

injury. For a long period he couldn’t even 

look at a snowboard, and he completely 

withdrew from society. 

Imai had an even tougher time. After 

initially shutting herself away, she tried to 

rebuild her life, but with no qualifications 

or skills except for snowboarding and wake 

boarding, it proved difficult. She struggled 

to make ends meet working at a convenience 

store and family restaurant. 

But in recent years things have been 

looking up. She has worked as a gravure 

idol (a model who appears in magazines, 

photobooks or DVDs targeted at men) and 

has featured in some more adult material, 

which she says has helped to clear her debt. 

A single mother of two, her children are 

the most important part of her life, and she 

doesn’t want her own financial difficulties 

to impact on their lives. Working as a model 

has also helped to give the 27-year-old more 

confidence in herself. 

“I used to be really shy and felt that I 

always needed to cover my body,” she says. 

“That is something that has changed in 

recent years. I’ve had work done, but it isn’t 

the only reason. Since I started working as 

a gravure idol in 2013, I began to believe in 

myself much more. To do that kind of job 

you can’t be a shrinking violet. It has helped 

me a lot.” 

Often portrayed as a tragic figure by the 

press, Imai comes across as quite a positive 

character when you meet her in person. 

There have been a number of low points 

down the years, but she doesn’t regret the 

decisions she’s made and insists that she’s 

now in a happy place. 

“There’s been a lot written about my life 

in magazines and newspapers, but I believe 

people shouldn’t judge me based on what 

they’ve read,” Imai says. “Speak to me and 

you will see that not everything is negative 

in my life. I’m enjoying my work as a gravure 

idol and am back snowboarding again. 

I’m also coaching the sport to various kinds 

of people, including my son and daughter. 

I want to make it fun without putting them 

under any pressure at all: The exact opposite 

to how I was taught.” 


LIGHT 

CHASER 

Inspired by the cinematic vistas that Tokyo 

has to offer, photographer Lukasz Palka 

has spent nearly a decade capturing the 

city’s bright spots and hidden corners 

Words by Tracy Jones 

Photographs by Lukasz Palka 


EVEN THOUGH IT’S A 

CITY OF 13 MILLION 

PEOPLE ... THERE ARE 

THESE UNKNOWN 

PLACES 

endless ... As a photographer, there are so 

many stories to tell, so many things to shoot.” 

His Noctopolis series is a collection of 

night images that capture a city unwinding 

from its daily grind. In one photo, there’s a 

narrow enclave exposing the back kitchen of 

a Chinese restaurant. The scene is a cavernous 

patchwork of hangers, a sink, two white 

statues of smiling children, and tarp hanging 

from the ceiling corners. Colors and detail 

compose chaos. Everything looks like it could 

be covered in grease with peach hairs of dust 

and grit, giving it texture. Lukasz says that he 

was thinking of the street scenes from Blade 

Runner when he shot it. (At the time of writing, 

the film Blade Runner 2049 had just been 

released in Japan. Lukasz had already seen it. 

He says he “still prefers the original. But this 

one was a great continuation and expansion 

of the world. I enjoyed it a lot.”) The film’s 

apparent influence on Lukasz’s work gives 

Photographer and 

Eyexplore co-founder 

Lukasz Palka came to 

Tokyo as a Sophia University 

exchange student. He 

was born in Poland, but his parents 

immigrated to Chicago when he 

was five. After graduating college, 

to postpone “getting a real job,” he 

figured he’d teach English in Japan. 

It didn’t seem far-fetched since some 

of his friends were already doing 

it. Nine years ago, his plan was to 

stay here for a year. While teaching 

during the day and photographing 

Tokyo at night, he fell in love with 

the city. Taking pictures was always 

a casual hobby. It was something 

that he picked up from his father, but 

the longer he stayed here, the more 

serious he got about his craft. “What 

I like most is Tokyo itself,” he says. 

Famous for its otherworldly 

culture, the city’s nightscape is like 

an incarnation of the film Tron. 

The limelights of Tokyo’s popular 

spots beam an omnipresent tone, 

coloring the reflecting streets. It’s 

the dark fringes of those areas that 

Lukasz drifts through, unearthing 

their beauty as though mining 

treasure. “Tokyo does have its touristy 

spots, but if you go 15 minutes 

in any direction, away from those 

hot spots, suddenly you’re on your 

own. You might find something 

to photograph that no one’s ever 

photographed before. Even though 

it’s a city of 13 million people ... 

there are these unknown places,” 

he says. Focusing on landscape 

and street photography, “Tokyo is 

extremely diverse when you go to 

different areas ... it’s so big and 


FROM ABOVE, THE STREETS ARE 

GRIDDED CRACKS OF LIGHT. THE 

LIGHT IS LIFE. DARKNESS IS DEATH, 

CLOAKING THE SKY 

perspective to his other series, L’appel du 

vide, French for “the call of the void.” 

It’s a sequence of rooftop photos, and 

named after a phenomenon that urges the 

mind to naturally think about self-sabotage 

or suicide. When Lukasz wandered 

up to rooftops, he’d point his camera down 

toward the city and feel the call. “At first 

I was just exploring the alleys,” he says, 

which eventually led him to look up. From 

above, the streets are gridded cracks of 

light. The light is life. Darkness is death, 

cloaking the sky. Perhaps from a foreigner’s 

perspective, the roofs are actually a 

refuge from the illuminated eye of a homogenous 

world. He says the atmosphere 

up there is “serene.” 

Other classic Tokyo-inspired flicks 

like Akira, Ghost in the Shell, and The 5th 

Element also inform his work. They give 

him a “feedback loop of inspiration.” To 

study how images communicate story, 

watching film helps him develop content 

and context. “In photos, because it’s a still, 

the emphasis is so much on composition. 

The really impressive photos have really 

wild composition. There are so many layers 

to [them]. In movies, that’s sometimes 


the case, but often it’s not. The composition needs to be 

there to convey the story ... [allowing for] the feelings and 

the emotions to come through,” he said. His craft’s growth 

extends from asking himself, “How can I get a composition 

that works to tell a story, rather than it just being a great 

amazing impressive composition?” 

Two years ago, at Gaba, one of Japan’s biggest language 

teaching companies, Lukasz was still an English instructor. 

For almost seven years, he had been working his way up to 

management. He had finally come full circle, acquiring that 

“real job” that he set out to avoid a decade earlier. He got 

health care, a pension, salary, and he was working full time 

as a manager. With job security he was safe. Then he quit. 

Together with his friend Axel Deroubaix, who is based 

in Osaka, Lukasz co-founded Eyexplore. “Think of it as a 

personal trainer at a gym teaching you how to work out. 

We’re like personal trainers for photography,” he says. He 

takes his clients on what his company calls “photo adventures.” 

It’s a class combined with a tour. Out in the field, 

Lukasz critiques his students’ images and teaches them 

different photographic concepts. “It isn’t formal, but we do 

teach by going out and doing.” These days Lukasz actually 

works seven days a week, but “I love teaching,” he says. “I 

just don’t like teaching English.” 


visually to say. Having photographed this city for almost 

10 years, he’s gotten to know Tokyo in a way that few 

foreigners do. 

With thousands of admirers following his Tumblr 

page, people often “heart” his images, but in a blog post 

entitled, “Becoming A Hermit In The Woods,” he writes 

about not wanting to fall victim to “the seduction of the 

‘Like’.” “The path to creativity is fraught with fear, uncertainty, 

and self-doubt as it is,” he writes. “Why add to 

that by subjecting one’s work to the fickle attitudes of the 

social masses?” 

Freelancing for various travel media platforms, he 

only takes gigs that challenge his craft. He hasn’t shown 

at a gallery. Although he’s never even printed out his pictures, 

he wants to publish a book – that is if he can get out 

of his own way. “I’ve never finished a project. It’s hard. 

That’s where I’m at. How do I actually finish a project ... 

and say, ‘Ok, this is done.’” 

When asked about smartphones turning everyone 

into a photographer, he says, “I think that no matter how 

good you get at photography, if you go out with someone 

else who knows what they’re doing ... who has a different 

perspective on things, you’re going to learn something.” 

For beginners, and even professional photographers, 

“when you’re in a foreign town ... it is nice to have someone 

who knows the area extremely well and can take 

you to interesting spots and show you compositions that 

you might not have thought of if you were just passing 

through a place ... The thing that I think Eyexplore 

brings to the table is that we know how to convey [photo] 

concepts cleanly and effectively so that people can learn. 

We’re trying to be like [former Chicago Bulls coach] Phil 

Jackson, not Michael Jordan.” 

Photography pioneers Alex Webb, Saul Leiter, and 

William Eggelston were famous for communicating 

through images. Lukasz, like his idols, has something 


33 WAYS TO EXPERIENCE THE BEST OF JAPAN 

Whether you’re looking to explore a remote part of the country, or you want to learn a 

traditional art like woodblock printing, we’ve got plenty of ideas for your must-do list. 

Contributors 

Lisa Wallin, Alec Jordan, Annemarie Luck, Naomi Schanen 

TOKYO TOKYO WEEKENDER WEEKENDER | DEC | 2017 DEC - 2017 JAN - 2018 JAN 2018 | 29 | 29

experiences ACTIVITIES 

Launched in 2015, Omotenashi Selection is a collection 

of quality Japan-made products conveying the country’s 

craftsmanship and hospitality (summed up by the word 

“omotenashi”). This year the project launched its Experiences 

category, giving visitors to Japan the chance to discover 

the best the country has to offer in terms of restaurants, 

accommodation and activities. To kick off this issue’s special 

“Experience Japan” section, we bring you 24 venues and 

activities handpicked by the Omotenashi Selection team. 

For more information about the project, visit omotenashinippon.jp/selection/en 

CREATE GOLD LEAF CRAFTS 

WHERE: KANAZAWA, ISHIKAWA 

PREFECTURE 

Kanazawa is famous for producing nearly all 

of Japan’s gold leaf, and has been doing so 

since back in the mid-1500s. Gold Leaf Sakuda 

was founded in 1919, and has built a reputation 

for creating high quality gold leaf products 

using traditional methods, even receiving 

a nod from the Michelin Blue Guide. At 

Sakuda’s trial workshops, you can experience 

making your own gold leaf designs. Choose 

from a selection of patterns or create your 

own from scratch. There are different items 

to choose from such as chopsticks, mini boxes, 

wooden pendants, and mini cherry boxes. 

The workshop lasts about one hour and the 

cost ranges from ¥600 to ¥3,400 depending on 

the item you choose. goldleaf-sakuda.jp/en 

SHOW OFF YOUR METALWORKING SKILLS AT A 

KNIFE-MAKING WORKSHOP 

WHERE: SANJO, NIIGATA PREFECTURE 

It’s rare to find a facility where you can experience knife-making using traditional manufacturing 

methods. At Sanjo Blacksmith Training Hall’s workshops, however, you can try out Japanese 

nail-making, letter opener-making, and knife sharpening with traditional Sanjo techniques. 

Using a coke forge, steel chopsticks and hammers, you’ll get to experience real metalworking 

alongside skilled craftsmen. You’ll also leave with a new appreciation of the skill that goes into 

traditional Japanese monozukuri (manufacturing). kajidojo.com 


experiences ACTIVITIES 

TREAT YOUR IMPORTANT 

GUESTS TO OMOTENASHI 

TRAIN TO BECOME A SAMURAI WARRIOR 

WHERE: TOKYO 

Yumonoya’s Japan Culture Experience Tours in Asakusa 

offer a variety of activities, including kimono rental and 

samurai training. The latter is based on the Takafuji dance 

company and Kenbu Tachibana itto-ryu style, and teaches 

you not only swordsmanship but also the manners and 

mindset of a true samurai warrior. You’ll even get a samurai 

training certificate to prove you’ve made the grade. As 

for the kimono rental service, visitors can choose from a 

selection of beautiful kimono sets made from traditional 

Japanese fabrics. tokyo-samurai.com 

WHERE: TOKYO 

Take the pressure off special occasions with Four Heart’s Care 

Escort service. Whether it’s at a wedding or while traveling, 

Care Escort will look after important guests and ensure that 

they receive the best treatment. Staff conduct meetings with 

family members in advance to create a strong relationship 

with their customers and understand what they are looking 

for. Staff are trained to serve in different roles – such as care 

workers or bridal planners – so as to match customers’ needs. 

To provide the best service for their clients, Care Escort regularly 

provides training in customer care and social etiquette. 

care-escort.com 

RENT A RICKSHAW FOR A 

SPECIAL OCCASION 

WHERE: TOKYO AND 

BEYOND 

Asakusa in Tokyo is known for 

being a hotspot for rickshaw 

rides, but with Kurumaya you 

can also request specific destinations 

around Tokyo (and all over 

Japan) for special occasions. For 

example, perhaps you’d like to 

treat your other half to a nostalgic 

trip around a memory-filled 

area on your anniversary. All 

staff at Kurumaya work as both 

rickshaw drivers and craftsmen, 

and the rickshaws can easily be 

assembled and disassembled, so 

drivers can meet you anywhere 

you want. asakusa4028.com/ 

anywhere 

FIND YOUR ZEN AT A 

TRADITIONAL TEA CEREMONY 

WHERE: TOKYO 

Step into a tranquil Japanese tea haven 

at Chazen & Co. in Ginza. Offering a tea 

ceremony experience right in the heart of 

Tokyo, the authentic space was created by 

an expert tearoom designer and features 

a nijiriguchi (small door), tatami floor, 

and other traditional details. Experience 

the art of the Japanese tea ceremony 

and feel true omotenashi spirit at this 

foreigner-friendly program. Reservations 

required. Top tip: Ask for the Omotenashi 

Selection Plan, and you’ll receive letter 

packs that allow you to enjoy the tea ceremony 

experience at home. chazen-us.com 

TRY YOUR HAND AT CREATING 

PLASTIC FOOD ART 

WHERE: OSAKA 

Fascinated by Japan’s food samples whenever you pass by a 

restaurant? Here’s your chance to experience the art of food 

sample-making for yourself. From parfaits and tarts to sushi 

and bento boxes, Design Pocket offers visitors a variety of 

fake food lessons. If you’re feeling up to the challenge, take on 

the technical process of making macaroons, which involves 

coloring the resin and heating the whole thing in an oven 

to finish it off. Of course there are plenty of food samples 

available for purchase too. The workshop takes about 40 to 

60 minutes and lessons start at ¥2,160; service is provided in 

English, Chinese and Korean. www.designpocket.net (Japanese), 

tinyurl.com/TWdesignpocket (English) 


experiences FOOD 

EAT SOPHISTICATED BUDDHIST 

CUISINE AT AN INNER-CITY RETREAT 

WHERE: TOKYO 

Shojin cuisine is a vegetarian meal that originated in Japanese 

Buddhist temples. At DAIGO, not far from Toranomon Hills, 

you’ll get to try an elaborate, kaiseki (traditional multicourse 

meal) version of the food while being immersed in an elegant 

atmosphere of Japanese gardens, traditional furnishings 

including hori-kotatsu (low tables over a sunken floor) and 

tatami, and teahouse-style architecture. The menu changes 20 

times a year, allowing you to encounter a variety of different 

dishes and enjoy seasonal delicacies. atago-daigo.jp 

PREPARE AND EAT SEASONAL DISHES WITH A 

TOP JAPANESE CHEF 

WHERE: TOKYO 

Hifumian is a Japanese cooking and culture school in Kagurazaka that offers lessons for 

foreign attendees in local home-style cooking. The menu is centered around traditional 

festivals, and is planned by matching seasonal ingredients with these special occasions. 

Those taking part in the class can help with the cooking preparations, and then watch Chef 

Takamitsu Aihara cook the meals while he explains the history, meaning and traditions 

behind Japanese festivals. Being a key figure in the world of Japanese culinary arts, Aihara 

makes sure that the class has a friendly atmosphere and places an emphasis on the joy of 

cooking. Omotenashi is expressed in the form of the beautiful arrangement of the food, the 

use of Japanese dishware, and seasonal decorations. en-salon.hifumi-an.com 

DESIGN YOUR OWN SUSHI ROLL AT 

A DESIGNER RESTAURANT 

WHERE: KYOTO 

Try out a variety of beautifully arranged Kyoto delicacies 

at AWOMB, a restaurant with a wabi-sabi vibe 

that’s housed in a remodeled 80-year-old kyo-machiya 

(traditional wooden townhouse). Colorful ingredients 

including kyoyasai (Kyoto’s traditional vegetables with 

unique shapes and hues), yuba (tofu skin), and seafood 

decorate the plates, while the dishes are garnished 

with seasonings such as kuroshichimi (blended black 

spices) and sansho (Japanese pepper). You can even 

mix all your favorite ingredients in a temaki hand-roll 

sushi or teori-sushi, and make the meal your own. 

The presentation of the ingredients reflects the grid 

patterns of the streets of Kyoto. awomb.com 

DINE AMIDST A BAMBOO FOREST IN THE CENTER OF TOKYO 

WHERE: TOKYO 

French chef Stephen Pantel’s concept for The Classica Omotesando’s cuisine is the harmony 

between Japan and the West, light and shadow, and luxury and intimacy. Born 

from Pantel’s imagination, the course menu changes four times a year in accordance 

with the seasons, and guests can watch as food is prepared by talented chefs in the 

open kitchen. A mini bamboo forest surrounds the venue, making the elegant space 

feel like a nature-filled escape. Need to plan a wedding or special event? The venue 

also offers a pretty onsite chapel and banquet hall for the perfect urban celebration. 

classicaomotesando.jp 


experiences TRAVEL 

TRAVEL LIKE A VIP ON A 

TAILORMADE TOUR 

WHERE: TOKYO AND BEYOND 

The new, exclusive Royal Road Premium coach is 

the king of transportation. Travel in style in the 

chic, luxurious bus, with an itinerary created by 

tour company JTB, for a one-of-a-kind way to see 

Japan. The 10 individual leather seats can recline 

up to 140 degrees so you are ensured a relaxing 

and comfortable journey. Lots of personal space, 

a clean restroom, and a wide selection of drinks. 

What more could you want from a road trip? 

tinyurl.com/TWroyalroad 

EXPLORE THE SANIN AND SANYO 

REGIONS ON A LUXURY SLEEPER TRAIN 

WHERE: WESTERN JAPAN COASTLINE 

Launched in 2017, JR West’s luxury sleeper excursion train, 

TWILIGHT EXPRESS MIZUKAZE , is a 10-car train that runs along 

the gorgeous coastline of western Japan. It carries up to around 30 

passengers, and offers three kinds of rooms (“The Suite” which spans 

one full car, the “Royal Twin” which offers views from both sides of 

the car, and the “Royal Single” for solo travelers), an exquisite lounge, 

a spacious dining area, and observation rooms that all contribute to 

an unforgettable journey. Choose from five courses – the Sanin tours 

show you the beautiful surroundings of the Sea of Japan coastline, 

while the Sanyo tours run along the Seto Island Sea – and visit 

sightseeing spots along the route. The crew members, most of whom 

trained at the Imperial Hotel in Tokyo, offer top-class hospitality and 

professionalism, making your journey through the breathtaking views 

of southern Honshu a memorable one. twilightexpress-mizukaze.jp/en 

experiences STAY 

GET AWAY TO THE PICTURE-PERFECT 

SCENERY OF IWATE 

WHERE: OSHUKU, IWATE PREFECTURE 

Surround yourself with Iwate’s breathtaking beauty at 

Choueikan ryokan. Whether it’s from the first-rate guest 

rooms or from the comfort of the natural hot spring bath, 

the inn highlights scenes of Tohoku’s gorgeous seasonal 

beauty. Soak amongst trees in the baths and spoil yourself 

with the menu, which changes 17 times a year, according 

to Japan’s 24 micro seasons. tinyurl.com/TWchoueikan 

DIP INTO JAPAN’S FAMED RIVERSIDE 

HOT SPRING AT A MOUNTAIN INN 

WHERE: TOYOSAKA, OKAYAMA PREFECTURE 

Ryokan Hakkei is like a home away from home, except with top quality cuisine 

(suitable for vegans), hidden hot springs, and the famous suna-ya outdoor onsen on 

your doorstep. The mixed bathing area is near Yubara Dam, and is called suna-ya 

(sand bath) because as the hot water gushes out it pushes sand onto the riverbed. 

It’s open 24 hours a day and is free of charge, and Hakkei provides special bathing 

wear for women so there’s no need to feel shy. If you’re up for a bit of sightseeing, 

you can reach Izumo Taisha Shrine, Adachi Museum of Art, the Tottori Sand Dunes, 

Himeji Castle, and Naoshima within two hours by car. hakkei-yubara.jp 



SOAK IN A RARE HOT SPRING; EAT 

UNIQUE BEEF CUISINE 

REFRESH YOUR CITY SOUL IN NAGANO’S HIGHLANDS 

WHERE: OKUTSU, OKAYAMA PREFECTURE 

Okutsuso ryokan boasts a rare kind of hot spring known 

as the kagi-yu (locked bath) of Tadamasa Mori, the lord of 

Tsuyama domain in the Edo period, who guarded the bath 

to ensure he had exclusive use of it. Why is it so special? The 

water wells up directly from the rocks at the bottom of the 

bath and so is not exposed to air – this means it does not get 

oxidized and thus is considered uber pure. Out of 35,000 hot 

spring hotels in Japan, this kind of “natural” onsen is only 

found in a few dozen. As for the beef cuisine, Okayama has 

developed its own signature style. Enjoy a nine-course meal, 

featuring a variety of beef dishes including sozuri nabe (hot 

pot made with slices of beef pared from the bone) as well as 

the seasonal blowfish specialty. okutsuso.com/en 

WHERE: TATESHINA, NAGANO PREFECTURE 

Escape the city with a trip to Nagano’s highlands at Tateshina Kaorukaze. 

Spend the day rejuvenating yourself with activities such as golfing or trekking. 

In the summer, cool off in the purifying, refreshing breeze of the hills, 

and in winter, warm yourself up in the fireplace lounge as you listen to the 

fire crackle. The restaurant’s creative cuisine features the freshest mountain 

vegetables and the best seasonal local ingredients, such as wild plants 

and premium beef. Finish off the day with a relaxing dip in the indoor 

and open-air baths, fed directly from the Mimuro hot springs of Tateshina. 

kaorukaze.net 

FEEL LIKE JAPANESE 

ROYALTY AT THIS 

HISTORIC RYOKAN 

WHERE: SHIZUOKA 

For a truly traditional and luxurious 

Japanese experience, stay at Ochiairo 

Murakami ryokan, a registered 

Tangible Cultural Property. The 

Showa style ryokan takes you back 

in time, allowing you to appreciate 

historic Japanese architecture and 

the artisans’ attention to detail such 

as in the intricate patterns of the 

shoji sliding doors. With both 

Japanese- and Western-style 

rooms, hot spring baths and superb 

Japanese meals, this ryokan has 

all the ingredients to make this an 

omotenashi-filled experience. 

ochiairomurakami.com/en-gb 

SPA YOUR STRESS AWAY 

WHERE: NAHA, OKINAWA 

One of the best experiences at Loisir Spa 

Tower Naha Churaspa has to be the Ryukyu 

Ayurveda treatment, which incorporates 

Okinawan ingredients with Indian remedies, 

conditioning both the mind and the body. 

Afterwards, take a dip in the Miegusuku hot 

spring, sourced from geothermally heated 

fossil seawater that, unlike volcanic hot 

springs, contains salt which helps warm 

the body. The indoor swimming pool is also 

70 percent hot spring water, and your Spa 

Deluxe Twin room has a private bath for perfect 

moments spent peering out at the views 

of the Okinawan sea and sky. solarehotels. 

com/en/hotel/okinawa/spatower 

EXPERIENCE LIFE IN AN 

EDO-PERIOD CASTLE TOWN 

WHERE: SASAYAMA, HYOGO PREFECTURE 

Sasayama is an old castle town that was established in Hyogo 

Prefecture in the early 1600s. To allow visitors to experience 

lifestyles and customs from the Edo and Showa periods, five 

traditional homes have been carefully restored and grouped 

together under the name Sasayama Castle Town Hotel Nipponia. 

Each unit offers modern comforts but maintains its 

original charm, allowing you to feel like you’re really living 

in a secluded, Edo period castle town. While enjoying the 

atmospheric old town, you’ll also get to enjoy state-of-the-art 

facilities and exquisite French cuisine made with local ingredients. 

sasayamastay.jp 



STAY AT A SEASIDE RYOKAN NEAR THE 

KUMANO KODO PILGRIMAGE 

REJUVENATE AT A 

WELLNESS RETREAT IN 

WHERE: KATSUURA, WAKAYAMA PREFECTURE 

How about a quick getaway to a UNESCO site? Katsuura Gyoen 

is a luxury ryokan in the fishing port town of Katsuura 

(which lays claim to the highest volume of tuna fish hauls 

in Japan, so you can imagine the delicious seafood dishes). 

Overlooking Nachi Bay, the hotel’s “Ten” suites are spacious 

and feature open-air baths. Some of the rooms even offer 

views of Nachi-no-Otaki, Japan’s tallest waterfall. Best of 

all, the area is home to the ancient, UNESCO-registered Kumano 

Kodo pilgrimage route (www.tb-kumano.jp/en/kumano-kodo). 

Stretching over the mountainous Kii Peninsula 

(which is listed on Lonely Planet’s “Best in Travel 2018” 

list), the route lets you take in the extraordinary landscape 

and the three Grand Shrines of Kumano, and also feel the 

spirituality and history that are now an integral part of the 

Kumano countryside. www.katuuragyoen.co.jp 

AN ONSEN TOWN 

WHERE: IKAHO, GUNMA 

PREFECTURE 

Situated on the slopes of Mount 

Haruna, Ikaho Onsen is a hot 

spring town that’s long been 

favored by Japanese writers and 

artists as a place of inspiration and relaxation. Kaichoro ryokan builds on this 

reputation by creating an elegant wellness retreat where you’ll not only experience 

soul-rejuvenating moments in the exquisite Japanese-style suites (with private 

gardens and open-air baths) but also relish the mouthwatering meals. The Japanese 

course menus change every month, and the sommelier offers drink pairing 

suggestions with both Japanese sake and Western drinks. Surrounded by extraordinary 

landscapes, you can choose to spend time in nature or being pampered in 

the high-class spa. kaichoro.jp/english 

WAKE UP TO OCEAN AND MT. FUJI 

VIEWS JUST 90 MINUTES FROM TOKYO 

WHERE: HAYAMA, KANAGAWA PREFECTURE 

Neighbor to the more crowded Kamakura, Hayama is a 

top choice for those seeking a quieter and, shall we say, 

more mature seaside escape that’s not too far from Tokyo. 

SCAPES THE SUITE is located right on the beach, offering 

uninterrupted ocean and Mt. Fuji views from the guestrooms. 

The hotel prides itself on offering “not a journey, 

but an escape,” part of which entails them instinctively 

being able to predict your needs before you’ve even 

expressed them (this is classic omotenashi). They also pay 

attention to the basics such as picking local vegetables 

with rich flavors in the Miura Peninsula each morning to 

serve delicious, fresh meals. scapes.jp/english/hotel.html 

ADMIRE TRADITIONAL AND MODERN DECOR AT 

A FAMILY-FRIENDLY RYOKAN 

WHERE: MINAKAMI, GUNMA PREFECTURE 

Looking for a child-friendly ryokan for a quick weekend family trip? Just 90 

minutes from Tokyo, Bettei Senjuan is the place for you: the philosophy here is 

that experiencing ryokan from a young age is important, because it means that the 

culture can be passed on to future generations. The hotel blends traditional and 

contemporary architecture – the geometric patterns on the walls and ceiling are 

made using the Japanese paper marbling technique of Edo Suminagashi. As for the 

cuisine, multi-course dinners are served, featuring freshly sourced local ingredients. 

senjyuan.jp/e 



ESCAPE TO 

JAPAN’S MOST 

SECLUDED 

ONSEN 

Looking for the ultimate private getaway? 

Here are four of the most hidden-away 

natural hot spring resorts to try 

ORDER A TRADITIONAL SAKE SET, 

WHICH FLOATS IN THE BATH AS YOU 

ENJOY YOUR DIP 

NANOYADO HOTEL IYA ONSEN 

Where: Miyoshi, Tokushima 

Prefecture 

For a truly hidden gem, look no further 

than Nanoyado Hotel Iya Onsen, 

located deep in the mountains 

surrounding the Iya Valley. Here, 

the natural landscape retains its 

original wild state with few exceptions 

of human interference. Find 

yourself immersed in deep forests, 

surrounded only by birds singing 

and the wind blowing through the 

trees. The view over the valley is 

unrivalled – even more so because 

you can enjoy it on your way down 

to (and up from) the hotel’s outdoor 

bath, which you get to by cable car. 

The 170-meter-long ride takes five 

minutes, giving ample time to take 

in the sweeping views of Iya Valley 

and beyond. 

Arriving at the baths (there 

are two – one for men and one for 

women), guests have an exclusive 

view over the Iya River 

from the bath area, which sits 

on the ridge of the river. The 

view is stunning both day and 

night – we recommend going 

for two dips in one day to fully 

enjoy the beauty of the region. 

The 20 rooms available are a 

mix of Western and Japanese 

style, some with open-air baths 

and panoramic views of the 

valley. Dining options include 

kaiseki (multi-course) meals or 

omiki-nabe, a local hot pot dish 

with a soup base made from 

miso and local sake. Guests who 

would like to stop by just for 

lunch and a bath are welcome, 

but reservations are required 

in advance. 

367-28 Matsuo Matsumoto 

Ikeda, Miyoshi, Tokushima Prefecture, 

www.iyaonsen.co.jp/en 

RANKEISOU INN 

Where: Nagano Sanjo, Niigata Prefecture 

Situated an hour from the nearest train station, this historic ryokan sits 

at the edge of Shinano River, far away from any other houses or inns. 

Feast on a lavish bounty from the nearby mountains and follow up 

with a soak in one of the two open-air baths that can be reserved privately. 

Guests are also welcome to order a traditional sake set, which 

floats in the bath as you enjoy your dip. In the lobby, you can drink 

straight from the ryokan’s pure, natural hot spring. 

Echigo-Nagano Onsen, 1450 Nagano Sanjo, Niigata Prefecture, 

www.rankei.com/english.htm 



HOSHI ONSEN CHOJUKAN 

Where: Minakami, Gunma Prefecture 

This ryokan has a 140-year history and is registered as a National Tangible Cultural Property. 

Located inside Joshinetsu-Kogen National Park, it’s protected by the shade of trees in summer, 

making it the perfect place to escape the summer heat. The Hoshi no Yu bathhouse, constructed 

in a typical Meiji period style, has mixed bathing facilities for the brave. Choyu no Onsen is for 

women only and sits adjacent to a nearby stream, offering a beautiful vista of the flowing water 

and forest surrounding it. Dropping in for lunch and a bath is permitted, but make sure 

to reserve in advance. 

650 Nagai, Minakami, Tone, Gunma Prefecture, hoshi-onsen.com/english 

TAKARAGAWA ONSEN OSENKAKU 

Where: Minakami, Gunma Prefecture 

Historians have found evidence that this hot 

spring area was used by people in the Jomon 

period (14,000-300 BCE) of ancient Japan, but 

the ryokan itself dates back to the Taisho era 

(1912-1926). Ideal for couples who want to 

spend some quality time together, this rare 

resort doesn’t just have one mixed-bathing 

open-air bath – it has three! Mixed bathing 

areas require guests to be nude, but women 

are provided with a special towel to wrap 

themselves in before they take a dip. All baths 

look out onto the river, offering breathtaking 

views in every season. Staff at the hotel are 

warm and most speak at least two languages. 

1899 Fujiwara, Minakami, Tone, Gunma Prefecture, 

www.takaragawa.com/english.html 



in Japan, measuring two kilometers long and 

containing some 200,000 tombstones. Many 

tours leave from Eko-in and can be arranged 

through your lodgings. 

SLEEP LIKE 

A MONK 

Staying overnight at a temple 

is an ideal way to experience 

Japanese Buddhism. Here’s 

what you should know about 

shukubo and a few places 

where you can do it 

Although Japan is known for its luxury 

hotels and sumptuous ryokan, 

there’s another, more humble 

way to experience the country’s 

hospitality, while also deepening 

your appreciation of its rich and fascinating 

culture. The practice known as shukubo, or 

temple lodging, goes back hundreds of years, 

and was originally intended for monks visiting 

from other temples and religious pilgrims, 

but now hundreds of temples and shrines 

around Japan offer lodging to tourists and 

travelers, both foreign and domestic. A few 

things to keep in mind: you shouldn’t go into a 

shukubo experience expecting to be pampered. 

You’ll be comfortable, but not basking 

in luxury. Many temple lodging rooms don’t 

have private bathrooms, so shared facilities 

are to be expected. At some locations, there 

are larger, more well-appointed rooms with 

private baths; you’ll need to enquire about 

these. Depending on the location, WiFi may 

not always be offered, but then again, you 

probably came to a temple to get a bit of 

peace, so unplugging for a while isn’t the 

worst thing in the world! 

On the plus side, most shukubo options 

offer the chance to eat (usually) vegetarian 

meals known as shojin ryori – temple food 

that is hearty and healthy, and whose ingredients 

are carefully chosen for balance in flavor 

and even in color. Guests also have the chance 

to take part in evening or morning meditations 

or ceremonies. 

KOYASAN, WAKAYAMA PREFECTURE 

Perhaps the most popular place to experience 

temple lodging in Japan is at Koyasan, 

in Wakayama Prefecture. Part of a UNESCO 

World Heritage site that includes two other 

areas in the Kii Mountain Range, Koyasan is 

the home of the Koyasan school, the oldest 

and largest sect of Shingon Buddhism. Given 

its importance, the area itself has grown to 

include more than 100 subtemples. More than 

50 temples in the Koyasan area offer lodging, 

and many of them can be found on the Koyasan 

Shukubo Association’s English website 

(eng.shukubo.net/temple-lodging.html) 

One of the most highly recommended 

locations in Koyasan is Eko-in. A stay at the 

temple includes instruction in meditation, a 

vegetarian meal, and an opportunity to take 

part in morning services, which includes 

chanting and a fire ceremony (starting 

at ¥11,500, www.ekoin.jp). Other popular 

locations include Fudo-in (¥14,580, www. 

fudouin.or.jp) and Shojoshin-in (¥10,800, 

shojoshinin.jp). Regardless of where you stay, 

you should definitely plan on an evening tour 

of the cemetery at Okunoin: it’s the largest 

KYOTO 

Kyoto, with its abundance of temples, is another 

location with a wide range of shukubo 

options. One of them is the Shunkoin Temple 

Guest House, which is a part of a larger Zen 

temple known as Miyushinji that offers morning 

meditation classes (starting at ¥4,500, 075- 

462-5488). The Omuro Kaikan Hall at Kyoto’s 

Ninnaji offers a bit of a hybrid experience, 

with non-vegetarian meals and beer available 

for meals, as well as a chance to witness 

the morning ceremony and tour the temple’s 

beautiful grounds (starting at ¥11,000, 

includes two meals, www.ninnaji.or.jp/ 

syukubou/stay.html). Rokuo-in is a very small 

temple in the Arashiyama area, with lodgings 

for women only (¥4,500, including breakfast, 

075-861-1645), and Myoshin-ji Daishin-in is 

very popular with foreign travelers (¥4,700, 

including breakfast, 075-461-5714). 

KANAZAWA, ISHIKAWA PREFECTURE 

One hidden gem that could be part of a trip to 

Kanazawa is the Shingon temple of Natadera, in 

Ishikawa Prefecture. This temple features expansive 

grounds, and the temple lodging is located on 

a small mountain with views out over the Japan 

Sea and nearby Mount Hakusan (¥13,000-¥15,000 

per person, includes two meals, 0761-65-2111). 

EIHEIJI, FUKUI PREFECTURE 

Finally, if you’re really interested in experiencing 

the monastic lifestyle for a little while, we recommend 

Eiheiji in Fukui Prefecture. This temple 

complex was founded by Dogen, a pioneering figure 

in Zen Buddhism who started the Soto school 

in the 13th century. For this location, you’ll need 

to make a reservation in writing, a month ahead 

of time. It’s certainly not a place for a casual stay, 

but for people with a real interest in Buddhism, 

it’s an opportunity that’s well worth trying 

(bit.ly/TWEiheiji, 0776-63-3640). 


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[ PROMOTION ] 

GIVE YOUR DOG A 

BREAK IN BEAUTIFUL 

KARUIZAWA 

Hate leaving your pooch at 

home when you go away for 

weekends? Regina-Resort 

Kyukaruizawa offers a 

solution with its brand-new 

stylish hotel that’s perfectly 

prepped for pups 

Few hotels in Japan manage to capture 

the zeitgeist here like Regina-Resort 

Kyukaruizawa, which opened in 

November in the enduringly popular 

tourist area of Karuizawa, Nagano 

Prefecture. The resort is striking – it owes 

much to the works of the modern Japanese 

architectural movement, which shuns brutalism 

and utilitarian practicality in favor of 

connecting construction, nature, and traditional 

Japanese aesthetics. And it is all designed 

with dogs in mind. 

“We want guests to be able to relax and 

enjoy the history and nature that Karuizawa 

has to offer with their dogs,” resort manager 

Shinya Sasuga tells Weekender. 

Designed with the help of Azusa Sekkei – 

a construction company working on the Tokyo 

2020 National Olympic Stadium – the hotel’s 

building is primarily constructed of grey 

concrete, but it is difficult to tell. Every wall 

is decorated with Japanese cedar, including 

paneling and lattices, giving the interior the 

feel of a Zen temple. 

But dogs take center stage. Yapping is 

always in earshot; wall decorations serve as 

hooks for leashes; the floors are all easy to 

clean (just in case that reception area seems 

the perfect spot for your pooch to leave his 

calling card); and all rooms include a crate, 

complete with a mattress, for sleeping. First 

floor rooms have gardens that use woodchip, 

which can easily be replaced. Second-floor 

guests only have terraces but can use the freefor-all 

woodchip dog run, which straddles the 

front of the hotel and includes sun loungers for 

the warmer months. 

The meals are of a quality comparable to 

an upper-end Tokyo restaurant. Our evening 

washoku menu included exquisite wagyu, barbecued 

at the table, sashimi that melted in the 

mouth, and a wide variety of hors d’oeuvres 

and vegetables. Wine from an extensive list 

chosen by hotel sommelier Atsushi Yuasa is 

available. The traditional Japanese breakfast 

was just as good – hearty and nutritious without 

being overfacing. 

Dogs are also welcome in the dining room. 

Each table has a trolley for pets to sit in (no 

climbing on the high-quality furniture allowed 

– though many defied the rules). There is also 

an extensive menu of food for pets. Ours had 

the horse meat cubes in the evening and salmon 

with vegetables for breakfast. As dog owners 

will know, sometimes hotels that allow pets 

do so on the assumption guests will be staying 

one night only. If guests stay longer it can be a 

challenge for the kitchen as ingredients for a 

second dinner can be difficult to source, and so 

the second-day meals are often disappointing. 

“If people stay for a second or third day, 

we will change up our menus, so there’s no 

need to worry about that,” said Sasuga. “And 

if guests want to head down the road, we have 

an agreement with a nearby restaurant where 

they can also go for a meal.” 

There is plenty else to do in the area. 

Kumoba Pond, set in lush surroundings with 

Mount Asama looming in the distance, is a 

short walk away, or head to Kyu Karuizawa Ginza, 

a shopping street with local stores that caters 

to tourists. Further afield, the old town around 

Karuizawa Station’s North Exit has plenty of 

history, including churches and the hotel that 

John Lennon liked to stay in. The South side’s 

malls are perfect for those wishing to buy brand 

goods – and out of the way for those wanting to 

avoid commercialization. The nightlife is also 

good, with plenty of restaurants and bars. 

We, however, decided to spend the evening 

at the hotel and make the most of the rare 

chance to take in a piece of contemporary 

architecture without crowds. The wine and 

jazz made the experience more rewarding, and 

having our dog doze beside us as we talked into 

the night made it all the more special. 

For more info about Regina-Resort Kyukaruizawa 

visit www.regina-resorts.com/kyukaruizawa 


Brand New Suites (27F) 

Oakwood Residence Roppongi T-Cube 

Opening Soon! 

Four-bedroom Grand Suite (209 sqm) 

Two-bedroom Prestige and Sky Suites (127-170sqm) 

Discover Oakwood living in Tokyo Midtown, Roppongi, 

Tokyo Station, Aoyama, Ariake, Akasaka, Shirokane, 

Azabujyuban, Minami Azabu, and Azabudai. 

Opening in Shinagawa, Nishi Shinjuku, and 

Shin Osaka in spring and summer of 2018! 

*short term stays available at Tokyo Station, Ariake, and Shin Osaka. 


experiences FOOD & DRINK 

TOUR TOKYO’S 

SAKE BREWERIES 

FOR FREE 

Check out a traditional shuzo 

and enjoy free tastings to find 

your new favorite sake 

It’s an open secret that Tokyo has sake 

breweries – nine of them, in fact. Tucked 

away on the outer edges of the city where 

the water is clearer and the air is fresher, 

breweries that have been around since 

the Edo period still ply their craft. Here are 

our top three breweries with free tours and 

tastings in Tokyo... 

OZAWA 

Founded in 1702, Ozawa Shuzo in Ome is the 

oldest brewery in Tokyo. Surrounded by lush 

green mountains and with the Tama River 

flowing past, it’s in a picturesque location 

that’s perfect for a whole day out. The brewery 

complex consists of a sake shop, two tofu restaurants, 

and a barbecue area. Nearby there 

are two museums – one about Gyokudo Kawai, 

a master of Nihonga (Japanese-style painting), 

and one featuring kanzashi (traditional 

Japanese hair accessories). Nature trails in the 

area will take you past shrines and temples 

to Mitake Gorge. For hardcore hikers, one of 

Tokyo’s tallest mountains, Mount Mitake, is 

just a stone’s throw away. 

Sake brand: Sawanoi 

Tour details: Free tours are available in 

Japanese, with English information provided. 

The tour ends with a sake tasting session. 

Reservations are required. 

More info: www.sawanoi-sake.com/en 

ISHIKAWA 

This Brewery first opened in 

1863, but moved to its current 

location in Fussa in 1881. The 

brewery area features beautiful 

traditional architecture that 

remains in excellent condition, 

including the hongura (production 

building), where Tamajiman, 

the main sake brand, is 

still produced. If sake leaves 

you thirsting for more, Ishikawa 

also brews its own beer, Tama no Megumi. 

To try some, stop by Fussa no Birugiya, an 

Italian restaurant located in the brewery complex 

and featuring local fare and beer. You’ll 

also find a soba restaurant here, as well as a 

museum detailing the history of sake-making 

from the Edo period onwards. 

Sake brand: Tamajiman 

Tour details: Free tours are available in English 

and French on weekdays. Reservations 

are required in advance. Free sake tasting 

experience included. 

More info: www.tamajiman.com/english 

TAMURA 

The Tamura family used to be village heads 

of Fussa city, and established Tamura 

Brewery in 1822. The business is still owned 

and managed by the family, with its 16th 

generation CEO currently at the helm. Some 

buildings in the brewery complex are Cultural 

Properties, including the well that was dug 

out almost 200 years ago – the water inside 

is still used for sake production. Their sake 

brand Kasen means “spring of joy,” referring 

to this vital source. Also in the complex, a 

pair of almost 800-year-old zelkova trees 

– auspicious symbols of harmony – offer 

shade and protection to the property. Tamura 

Shuzojo has always been small, and it 

intentionally limits its production. Most of its 

customers are based in Tokyo. 

Sake brand: Kasen 

Tour details: Free tours and tastings are 

available from Tuesday to Saturday, but only 

in Japanese. Reservations of 10 people or 

more are required. Bring an interpreter if 

possible to make the most out of the experience. 

Free tasting experience included. 

More info: www.seishu-kasen.com 

For an extended list of sake breweries in Tokyo, 

visit www.tokyoweekender.com 


experiences CRAFT 

“DIVE” FOR 

PEARLS WITHOUT 

LEAVING THE CITY 

Leave the real pearl hunting to the ama divers, and head 

to this Tokyo shop to experience extracting your very own 

gem from a selection of oysters 

Just over 100 years ago, Koichi Mikimoto, 

nicknamed the Pearl King, took 

a huge step into perfecting the art of 

pearl farming, creating an industry 

that could produce near-perfect cylindrical 

pearls to adorn the necks and ears 

of celebrities worldwide. His legacy created 

an opening for Japan to become the worldwide 

leader in cultured Akoya pearl production, 

a position it has enjoyed ever since. 

Thanks to Mikimoto’s ingenuity and perseverance, 

beautiful Akoya pearls are now 

more obtainable than they have ever been. 

However, usually we are dependent on pearl 

farmers doing the dirty 

work to provide us with 

these exquisite and lustrous 

seeds. Now, we can find 

them ourselves in the heart 

of Tokyo. 

This is the knowledge 

we were armed with when 

we headed to Pico-Labo in 

Taito-ku, where visitors can 

extract pearls from oysters 

themselves. We knew what 

we were going to do, but 

nothing had prepared us for 

the nervous titillation we 

experienced while trying to 

choose the “right” one. We 

hesitantly made our choices 

and were ready to begin. 

Each oyster, and thus each pearl, is 

unique. It’s one of the beautiful things about 

a product created by nature – pearls come in 

many different colors, sizes and shapes. Like 

a Kinder egg – or a box of chocolates – you 

never know what you’re going to get. Perfectly 

round ones are almost impossible to find – 

only about 5% of pearls produced will be the 

almost entirely flawless, cylindrical ones that 

we’re used to seeing in stores. 

Even so, we were confident our pearl 

– round or not – would be beautiful and 

perfect, because we had chosen it ourselves. 

Cautiously, we slid the tip of our knife into 

the shell’s “hinge,” twisting it gently. We 

pried the oyster open to reveal … a gooey 

mess. Armed with a tiny silver-colored shovel 

we carefully groped around in the hope 

of finding a lustrous treasure. Suddenly, 

resistance! Had we struck gold? With some 

trepidation, we gently applied pressure 

around the oyster’s insides, when something 

suddenly caught the light. A pearl! Our pearl! 

We scooped out our globe and wiped the 

slimy residue off to reveal a pearl with a rose 

pink shade. Akoya pearls come in varying 

shades ranging from rose pink to blue with 

silver and pink undertones, with the latter 

being the most rare. 

The whole experience starts at ¥1,300, 

which is a bargain since you could hit the 

jackpot with a giant, high-quality pearl. If 

you’re not quite sure what to do with your 

pearl once you have extracted it, Pico Labo 

offers a selection of accessory options: put 

your pearl inside a pendant, drill a hole in it 

and attach it to a chain necklace, or attach it 

to a brooch. You can also try extracting two 

and make earrings out of them, but they will 

most likely not match in color, shape or size. 

If you would like to go on a pearl hunting 

adventure of your own, or you simply want 

to buy pearl accessories and would like an 

extensive selection to choose from, Pico Labo 

has you covered. The staff speaks some English, 

and you can reserve an appointment via 

email or by phone. 

PICO LABO 

Address: 5-4-1 Ueno, Taito-ku 

Tel: 03-3832-0017 | Email: info@pico-labo. 

com | Opening hours: 9:30am-5:30pm 

Mon-Fri, closed Sat, Sun & hols | Pearl 

extraction hours: 11am-4pm Mon-Fri, 

reservations required 


experiences ART 

CARVE YOUR 

WAY INTO 

UKIYO-E 

Where to learn the traditional 

art of woodblock printing 

Ukiyo-e is a style of woodblock print art 

popularized in the Edo period (1603- 

1868) and was often used as a form 

of advertising, spreading information 

and setting trends for common 

people. However, due to the influence of the Meiji 

Restoration of 1868 and following the deaths of 

artists like Hokusai, ukiyo-e began its decline. 

Woodblock printing continued with more modern 

styles, which in turn gave rise to contemporary 

artists like Hidehiko Goto, Rebecca Salter and Shoji 

Miyamoto who continue to reinvent the medium. 

The process of traditional ukiyo-e printing 

was not simple – it required collaboration of 

multiple artisans for all stages. Artisans made 

and prepared the base woodblocks, while artists 

designed and painted the images to be printed. 

Carvers were needed to create the actual “stamp” 

for printing, and finally, printers to bring the 

artwork to life. These days, those interested in 

continuing the legacy of woodblock are hindered 

by the fact that there are few, if any, craftsmen 

creating many of the materials needed. 

Currently, there are only six ukiyo-e level 

woodblock-carving masters left in the world (all 

in Japan), and one of those is master woodblock 

carver Motoharu Asaka, who has been practicing 

his craft for 40 years. It is at his studio, Takumi 

Hanga, where complete beginners to the art 

– regardless of nationality – can get firsthand 

experience in this skillful practice. Asaka-sensei 

WHERE TO MAKE YOUR 

OWN WOODBLOCK 

PRINTS 

TAKUMI HANGA FUREAI KAN 

Take a one-time class or create 

your own long-term course at 

Master Motoharu Asaka’s studio 

in Shinjuku. Regular classes in 

English are provided with the assistance 

of interpreter and artist 

Louise Rouse. ¥6,000 per session, 

takumihanga.com 

MOKUHANKAN 

Centrally located in Asakusa, 

woodblock carver David Bull holds 

“print parties” where visitors can 

try out printing pieces themselves, 

and see professionals carving 

and printing in action. ¥2,000 per 

session, mokuhankan.com 

MACHIDA CITY MUSEUM 

OF GRAPHIC ARTS 

One of few museums in the world 

dedicated to prints, MCMGA offers 

occasional classes on copperplate 

etching and screen-printing, 

and woodblock printing. See the 

museum schedule for more details: 

hanga-museum.jp/english 

opened up his studio to students not looking to 

become masters – something that is uncommon. 

“Once I turned 60, I realized there are so few 

woodblock artisans. This should be shared with 

everyone – not just Japanese people. Very few 

successors join and even fewer become masters. 

I want everyone to experience this art.” 

Visitors to Takumi Hanga don’t need to have 

aspirations to become the next Hokusai as Asaka-sensei 

offers one-time printing sessions using 

his own blocks. More adventurous students 

create their own designs and learn how to print 

them in a double-session class, while those who 

want to dedicate themselves to the medium can 

arrange a full course where they can go more 

in-depth and learn the whole process. 

One long-term student is Jane Fulton Suri, 

who comes to the studio whenever she visits Tokyo. 

She has been working on several projects 

for almost two years. Even so, she says she still 

has a lot to learn. “I know what I’m doing, I’m 

just doing it wrong. You can be on your sixth 

color [of the same print] and mess it up, and 

then it’s just completely blown apart. Thankfully, 

Asaka-sensei is accommodating of today’s 

ambition and impatience – mine included.” 

Despite the difficulties, frustration and discipline 

the medium involves, Fulton Suri loves 

it. “It’s quite meditative as you learn how the 

materials behave. Also, the history and culture 

behind it gives me a context for Japanese art. I 

guess it feels like a privilege to be doing this.” 


experiences ART 

TRY 

TRADITIONAL 

NIHONGA 

Create your very own Japanese-style painting 

When asked how she defines 

the difference between 

Western-style painting and 

Nihonga, artist and teacher 

Maria Tanikawa says for 

her it’s largely down to the materials used. 

Although the style and techniques of Japanese 

painting have evolved over the years, the 

materials have remained all natural, which 

means you’ll find yourself quizzing Tanikawa 

on things like fish glue (nikawa) – an adhesive 

that’s made by boiling fish collagen in water. 

The glue is used to mix natural pigments, 

which are made from minerals, clay, oyster 

shells and metallic leaf (notice how pleasant 

they smell in comparison to oil or acrylic 

paints). Your canvas is delicate washi paper, 

and you’ll be outlining your drawing using 

sumi ink (the same kind used for calligraphy). 

We loved the process of adding water to an 

inkstone and rubbing a sumi stick against 

it to create the pitch-black liquid, and then 

mixing the pigments with our fingers. 

While fascinating to use, these materials 

take some getting used to, especially if you’re 

used to working with thick oils. But Tanikawa 

is excellent at breaking down each step – and 

giving a gentle nudge when you feel too nervous 

to spread a full base coat of paint over 

your perfectly outlined seahorse. (Wait, what, 

I should paint over my sumi ink drawing? 

Yes, don’t worry, you’ll still be able to see the 

outline after we dry the base coat.) 

Tanikawa spent several years studying 

and working in New York 

before returning to Tokyo 

to start offering Nihonga 

lessons here. Her classes 

are held at a bright, white 

studio in Omotesando, and 

she says the majority of her 

students are foreign (not 

many places offer Nihonga 

lessons in English). As for 

what you want to paint, 

that’s up to you. We chose 

to paint a blue seahorse in 

a cloud of grey smoke with 

flecks of gold for a touch 

of sparkle, while others 

attending the class went 

for pretty landscapes and 

flowers. (It’s a good idea to 

bring a printout of an image you like as you’ll 

need to trace it onto the washi paper.) You 

can choose to sign up for five classes (¥20,000, 

valid for three months), take a private lesson 

(¥10,000), or book a session through Airbnb 

Experiences (¥8,000). 

For more info, visit www.mariatanikawa.com or 

tinyurl.com/TWnihonga-airbnb 

COMBINE PAINT AND 

PARTY AT ARTBAR 

Prefer a more modern art 

experience? Try a creative 

class that’s also a social event 

Get your creative juices flowing at Artbar’s 

fun classes where you can sip on a 

glass of wine and tuck into snacks while 

expressing your inner Picasso. Suitable 

for both beginners and experienced 

artists, Artbar’s lessons are usually 

held at the weekend, with each session 

having a theme such as “Cranes with 

Red Fuji” or “Kandinsky Composition.” 

Some are aimed at kids too, such as the 

“Mommy & Me – Polar Bear” class on 

December 23. All materials are provided, 

and the cute studio in Daikanyama 

provides the perfect atmosphere for 

both creativity and mingling. The art 

instructors are all talented, welcoming, 

and speak either Japanese or English, 

or both. Two-hour classes are around 

¥5,000 (price sometimes changes for 

special events). More info: artbar.co.jp. 

Photos courtesy of Airbnb 



[ PROMOTION ] 

INDULGE 

IN JAPAN’S 

COMFORT 

FOODS 

Winter warmers at Tokyo’s 

Tabisuru Shintora Market 

this chilly season 

As the nights get longer and the days get shorter, it can 

be hard to chase those winter blues away. Thankfully 

the four brightly lit stalls and the café at Tabisuru 

Shintora Market – an ongoing event just outside 

Toranomon Hills that promotes regions from across 

Japan – have prepared for this season with nourishing comfort 

foods that warm the body from the inside out. Find a new favorite 

Japanese dish to soothe your soul when the weather, your 

life, or the world in general isn’t giving you a break. 

STALL 1: PORK OFFAL NABE FROM 

KOMONO, MIE PREFECTURE 

Give yourself an immunity booster at lunch with Komono pork offal nabe, 

which is packed with protein and vitamins. The rich soup base is laden 

with negi onion, carrots and ginger, which all work to help keep you warm. 

The Komono pork cutlet set comes with a crispy pork cutlet, a potato croquette, 

and a side of miso soup. For dinner, the pork offal nabe serves two 

to three people, making it the perfect dish to share with friends. Pair with 

some of Komono’s finest sake and liqueurs. 

STALL 2: HEAVENLY HOT POTS FROM 

HIOKI, KAGOSHIMA PREFECTURE 

Hioki city is happy to cater to nabe fans, with a 

selection of hot pots to delight even the fussiest 

eater. There are so many different flavors they’ll 

have you coming back every day! The heavenly 

hot pots served are pork barley miso nabe, 

chicken meatball and soymilk nabe, beef sukiyaki 

(similar to nabe but cooked in a skillet), and 

seafood chige (kimchi nabe). Night-time offerings 

include izakaya-style fare such as pork offal fry, 

tofu with a sprinkling of meat and negi onion. 

For true local fare, try gane, a tempura-style dish 

made of julienned root vegetables. Match your 

food with with one of Kagoshima’s famed shochu, 

or some amazake (a sweet alcohol made from 

fermented rice).


STALL 3: SHABU SHABU FROM 

SUZUKA, MIE PREFECTURE 

VISIT SHINTORA CAFÉ FOR 

A FUSION OF JAPANESE, 

SPANISH AND ITALIAN 

FLAVORS 

Tapas fans will love the variety of 

dishes available at the café, which 

are a delectable fusion of flavors. 

Here you’ll find palate pleasers like 

konnyaku (a jelly made from a type 

of potato) and beef shank in bamboo 

charcoal ajillo, creamy Manchurian 

rice stems and Komokin pork gratin 

with spicy yuzu taste, seaweed and 

parmigiano cheese fried galette, and 

more. Save some room for dessert 

though, as the zunda (paste made 

from edamame beans) ice cream 

and strawberry matcha crepes are 

sure to blow your mind. Drop by 

for lunch and ask for the lunchtime 

mini tapas – only ¥200 per dish! 

TABISURU SHINTORA 

MARKET’S WINTER EDITION 

KICKS OFF IN THE NEW YEAR 

Starting in January, Tabisuru Shintora 

Market will take on a new look 

with new cities, under the theme of 

The Dawn of Spring and Enlightenment. 

2018 will be the 150th anniversary 

of the Meiji Restoration, a 

time of new beginnings and change. 

This edition of Tabisuru Shintora 

Market will be a celebration of 

people, lifestyle, crafts and arts, 

with history as a focal point. 

As Mie Prefecture is the third top producer of green tea in Japan, it’s only 

right that Suzuka’s specialty shabu shabu is made using Tsubaki Saen green 

tea. The dish serves two to three people and features locally raised sakura 

pork and crispy green lettuce. For light nibbles to go with your drink, try 

the penne pasta arrabiata, or squid tempura – both dyed black using Suzuka 

ink! Pair with Zaku, an award-winning sake that won a gold medal in this 

year’s national sake competition. 

STALL 4: TAI OCHAZUKE AND 

MORE FROM NIIGATA VILLAGES 

For something filling but not too heavy, 

the lunchtime onigiri set comes with fried 

chicken, potato salad, and miso soup. To 

go with after dinner drinks of local wine, 

shochu or yogurt liqueur, try the warming 

tai ochazuke (green tea poured over sea 

bream and rice), or the nourishing seafood 

gratin. Follow up with an ice cream sundae 

infused with amazake (traditional sweet 

alcohol made from fermented rice), or a set 

of dango (sweet rice dumplings) that comes 

with edamame ice cream and hot green tea. 

TABISURU SHINTORA MARKET 

Address: 2-16 Nishi-Shinbashi, Minato-ku 

Web: www.tabisuru-market.jp 


Looking for your next job in Japan? 

Weekender has teamed up with 

Sunny Side Up Career and 

Coto Work to bring you 

the latest professional 

opportunities 

SERVER/WEB ENGINEER 

A successful Japanese tech company with global reach is looking 

to hire new staff. Join a fun and casual office environment with 

supportive staff, and make a global impact! Especially looking for 

creative team players capable of introducing innovative new ideas 

and approaches to programming. Flexitime, casual atmosphere, 

competitive salary. 

Requirements: 

- More than 5 years’ working experience in a related field 

- Server side apps development experience 

- Web apps development 

- Understanding of Linux preferred 

- Knowledge of Java or PHP preferred 

- Must be willing to work for the company long-term 

- Languages: business level English and N3 level or above Japanese 

(preferable but not required) 

Location: Central Tokyo 

Salary: Competitive (based on experience) 

GAME ENGINEER (SERVER SIDE) 

As a Game Engineer, you will be involved in the development and 

operations of a smartphone game application for both iOS and 

Android. Responsibilities include program design and development 

for front-end and server side; design and development of games 

using real-time communication; project realization; manpower and 

resource estimation and determination; proposing of improvement 

plan; team consulting; operational performance improvement. 

Requirements: 

- Must have a strong passion for games 

- Experience in developing and operating web services 

- Experience in Java/PHP/ Perl 

- Experience in DB/ MySQL/ Oracle/ PostgreSQL 

- Experience in game development is not necessary 

Location: Central Tokyo 


GLOBAL TEAM PR PRODUCER 

SUNNY SIDE UP Inc. is looking for launch members of its new 

Global Team which has been established due to the increase of 

requests for general communication strategies by foreign-affiliated 

companies and foreign government agencies. 

Requirements: 

- Plan and operate PR strategies 

- Produce PR events 

- PR consulting with clients 

- Produce PR-related events such as press conferences and media 

relations 

- Progress management of project budgets, and team management 

- Minimum five years of experience in marketing communications 

- Languages: business-level Japanese and English 

Location: Triumph Tokyo office 


BRAND COMMUNICATION ASSISTANT 

Sloggi Japan is looking for a brand communication expert to lead and 

develop regional marketing programs. The role includes managing 

the advertising and promotion budget, assisting with studying and 

analyzing consumer trends, and activities such as digital marketing, 

brand communication, retail marketing, brand merchandising, and 

store design. 

Requirements: 

- 3+ years’ work experience 

- 3+ years’ brand or communication experience in apparel, retail, or 

related industries is preferred 

- Experience with products targeting age group 20s to 30s is 

preferable 

- Analysis and proposal creation experience 

- University degree 

- Language: Japanese and basic English 

Location: Tokyo 


To apply for these jobs and view more opportunities, visit 

www.tokyoweekender.com/careers

Satomi Kondo, Sometimes people don’t act logically, ©Satomi Kondo ©Fujiko-Pro 

TAKE A NEW LOOK AT A CLASSIC 

Featured in our art roundup: more than two dozen contemporary Japanese 

artists put their own spin on the beloved futuristic cartoon cat Doraemon. 


‘New York-1’ (1978) | © KEIICHI TAHARA 

ART & BOOKS 

KEIICHI TAHARA: PHOTOSYNTHESIS WITH MIN TANAKA 

Keiichi Tahara traveled to France when he was 20. Struck by the unique intensity of the light there, Tahara was inspired to remain 

in the country, where his career as a photographer would flourish. He met the avant-garde dancer Min Tanaka in Paris, and the two 

collaborated on a project that was inspired by the idea of photographing Tanaka in environments rural and modern, throughout the 

seasons, and in several different countries, but always drawing attention to the unique qualities of each location’s light. The photographs 

went unseen for decades, but in 2016, Tanaka and Tahara (who passed away earlier this year), decided to revisit the project and 

started shooting photos in the series again. Hara Museum of Contemporary Art Until December 24 www.haramuseum.or.jp 

THE ART WORLD 

OUR PICK OF THE CITY’S BEST EXHIBITIONS 

Compiled by Alec Jordan 

Maija Louekari, Siirtolapuutarha (2009) 

MARIMEKKO SPIRIT ― PAAVO 

HALONEN / MAIJA LOUEKARI / 

AINO-MAIJA METSOLA 

Marimekko is a brand known for its 

daring prints and bold designs, and from 

the very start, it championed the work 

of young print designers, giving them an 

opportunity to thrive and develop their 

talents. This exhibit features three of 

Marimekko’s representative designers, 

and highlights several of each designer’s 

prints – including prints specifically made 

for the exhibit – as well as materials that 

dive into the spirit of the brand and its 

65-year history. The exhibit also tries 

to tease out some of the reasons why 

Finnish design has such an appeal for 

Japanese audiences. 

ginza graphic gallery Until January 13 

www.dnp.co.jp/gallery/ggg_e/ 

Maija Louekari, Veljekset (2016) 


Ai Shinohara, To the Bright – Nobita’s Great Adventure in the World of the 

Monsters ©Ai Shinohara ©Fujiko-Pro 

THE DORAEMON EXHIBITION TOKYO 2017 

First brought to life in 1969, Doraemon has gone on to become one of the most 

popular manga series in the world and has spawned a media empire that is still 

going strong to this day. Generations of Japanese kids were raised on the adventures 

of the time traveling cat from the 22nd century, and some of those kids 

grew up to be artists. This exhibit features a variety of contemporary Japanese 

creative minds, from art celebrities such as Takashi Murakami, Mika Ninagawa, 

and Yoshitomo Nara to lesser known artists, all bringing their own unique take 

to the blue feline and his friends. Mori Arts Center Gallery Until January 8 

thedoraemontentokyo2017.jp/english.html 

B 

BOOKS 

Looking to curl up with a good book 

over the winter holidays? With this trio, 

you’ll find food for thought, brilliant 

prose, and more than a few laughs 

BUNK, BY KEVIN 

YOUNG 

A recent Washington Post 

article pointed out that, in 

the first 300 days of Donald 

Trump’s presidency, he has 

made more than 1,600 false 

or misleading claims. It’s clear 

that a well researched book 

like this is one for our times. Written by the poetry 

editor for the New Yorker, Bunk’s subtitle is The 

Rise of Hoaxes, Humbug, Plagiarists, Phonies, Post- 

Fact, and Fake News. Although it examines these 

phenomena from an American perspective, there’s 

plenty here to be gleaned by readers worldwide. 

Tiger Lilies and a Swallowtail, 1959, The National Museum of Modern Art, 

Tokyo 

KUMAGAI MORIKAZU: THE JOY OF LIFE 

“I hope to live forever,” said Morikazu Kumagai at age 95, in a testament to his 

love for life and his devotion to his art. Over more than seven decades, the artist 

experimented with form and style, moving from realistic approaches and almost 

scientific explorations of figures in low light to the deceptively simple works that 

he would be known for later in life. While Kumagai is not widely known outside of 

Japan, his art deserves greater attention, and this is the first retrospective of his 

work to come to Tokyo in quite a few years. The National Museum of Modern 

Art, Tokyo Until March 21 kumagai2017.exhn.jp/ 

WE ARE NEVER 

MEETING IN REAL 

LIFE, BY SAMANTHA 

IRBY 

Samantha Irby thinks that 

this book’s cover kitten is like 

the feline version of her: “wet 

and gross and kind of sweaty 

looking, and also hissing.” 

That should give you a sense of her sharp wit, 

mordant self-deprecation, and highly autobiographical 

style. This best-selling collection of 20 

essays proves that the author can find humor in 

just about everything: her Crohn’s disease, awkward 

sexual encounters, depression, and her long 

stint at a veterinary clinic. 

AN ARTIST OF 

THE FLOATING 

WORLD, BY KAZUO 

ISHIGURO 

The Japan-born, UK-raised 

novelist surprised the literary 

world by winning the 

Nobel Prize for Literature 

this year. He’s perhaps best 

known for The Remains 

of the Day, but his second novel shouldn’t be 

overlooked. Published in 1989, it’s the account of 

an artist who got involved in far-right politics in 

the days before World War II, only to find himself 

ostracized after war’s end. The slim volume is a 

meditation on abrupt cultural and social change, 

and the fallibility of the self image we all create. 


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Photo by SETO Hidemi, New National Theatre 

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AGENDA: THE WEEKENDER ROUNDUP OF WHAT’S HAPPENING IN DEC-JAN 

1 

JAN 1-31 

2 

DEC 21-24 

3 

DEC 16-24 

4 

DEC 31 

TOKYO DOME CITY WINTER 

ILLUMINATIONS 

Known for its creative takes on 

winter illuminations, Tokyo Dome 

City is back this year with another 

tempting theme – sweets. 

Where: Tokyo Dome 

How much: ¥1,600 

More info: tokyoweekender.com 

CHRISTMAS KAMAKURA 

IGLOO DINNER 

Tuck into a luxurious five-course 

meal inside this cozy Kamakura igloo 

at Andaz Tokyo’s Rooftop Terrace. 

Where: Andaz Tokyo 

How much: ¥80,000 per person 


CINDERELLA 

The National Ballet of Japan 

performs this well-loved story for 

the Christmas season. 

Where: New National Theater, Tokyo 

How much: ¥3,240-¥12,960 


2018 COUNTDOWN 

LOUNGE EVENT 

Experience an unforgettable New 

Year’s Eve with top DJs, free-flowing 

champagne, cocktails, and canapés 

at The Peak Lounge & Bar. 

Where: Park Hyatt Tokyo 

How much: ¥18,000-¥20,000 


5 

DEC 27 

6 

JAN 15-16 

7 

JAN 12-21 

8 

DEC 14 

“WE LOVE 80S DISCO” 

NIGHT 

For this annual party, Grand Hyatt 

Tokyo’s Grand Ballroom is converted 

into an 80s-themed club with freeflowing 

drinks and plenty of snacks. 

Where: Grand Hyatt Tokyo 

How much: ¥13,000 


SETAGAYA BOROICHI 

Hunt for treasures at this 400-yearold 

street fleamarket featuring over 

700 stalls selling everything from 

pottery to vinyl. 

Where: Boroichi Dori 

How much: Free 


FURUSATO MATSURI TOKYO 

This festival brings 300 companies 

together to promote regional 

specialties and traditions from 

across Japan. 

Where: Tokyo Dome 

How much: ¥1,200-¥1,700 


GISHI-SAI 

Watch this annual festival’s parade, 

held in honor of the 47 Ronin and 

the master whose death they 

avenged. 

Where: Sengaku-ji Temple 




11 

9 

10 

12 

9 

DEC 1-25 

CHRISTMAS MARKET AT 

RED BRICK WAREHOUSE 

All the essentials are in place for a 

perfect festive date or family outing: 

shopping, ice skating, hot wine and 

delicious German food. 

Where: Red Brick Warehouse 



10 JAN 26-28 

JAPAN BREWERS CUP 

Both a contest between craft 

brewers and a festival, this event 

boasts 35 Japanese brewers and 300 

varieties of beer. 

Where: Osanbashi Hall, Yokohama 

How much: ¥500 


11 DEC 15 

THAT’S WHAT SHE SAID! 

COMEDY NIGHT 

Have a good laugh at Japan’s first 

and only all-women’s English comedy 

night, which also raises money for 

charity. 

Where: Good Heavens Bar 

How much: ¥3,000 


12 JAN 12-14 

TOKYO AUTO SALON 

The largest-ever showcase of custom 

cars in Japan featuring plenty of glitz 

and glamor. 

Where: Makuhari Messe 

How much: Advance ¥2,000, door 

¥2,500 



Society 

TOKYO’S LONGEST RUNNING SOCIAL COLUMN WITH BILL HERSEY 

I 

find it hard to believe, but this super city of ours has been 

even busier than usual the last few months. It’s been impossible 

to get to all the happenings I’d like to, and with the 

holidays coming up soon, it’s going to continue to stay that 

way right up to Shogatsu, the traditional Japanese New Year 

celebration. I’m starting this column over the three-day holiday from 

November 3 to 5, and driving around this morning, I was really surprised 

at the number of big – and for the most part beautiful – Christmas 

trees and traditional decorations that are up already or going 

up all over Tokyo. By the time you read this, I’m sure old Edo will be 

beautifully decorated for the holiday season. 

Tokyo is changing 

in other ways too. We’re 

looking to the Olympics 

in 2020, and what I’m 

sure will be a very busy 

schedule, and in preparation 

for that there’s 

renovation and construction 

everywhere. 

If you’ve lived here long 

and know Japan, you can 

see that our city, which 

is already known as one 

of the world’s cleanest 

and safest in the world, 

is getting better every 

day. Just checking out 

all the great events over 

the last few months has 

been amazing. 

THE VON 

WERTHERNS’ 

GERMAN UNITY 

DAY GARDEN PARTY 

Germany’s popular diplomats Ambassador Hans Carl Freiherr von 

Werthern and his wife Elisabeth are always busy, and things were no 

different for them this fall. They celebrated their day of German unity 

on the 3rd, and they had Oktoberfest celebrations at restaurants, 

bars, and National Azabu. The weather was perfect on the evening of 

the 3rd, and the embassy residence and spacious garden were packed 

with many friends and business leaders from both the Japanese and 

German communities. Special guests included Wolfgang Tiefensee, 

the State Minister of Economy, Science and the Digital Society. The 

food (German, of course) and the ambiance were very special. 

Elisabeth, our hostess for the evening, is British, and always looks 

chic in original fashion. For the unification celebration, she asked the 

Imagine One World Kimono Project group to help create her outfit, 

and they came up with something so lovely. I especially liked the 

Steiff German teddy bear on the back of her obi. 

Another outstanding German event I attended was a special performance 

of Brahms’s “German Requiem,” which marked the 500th 

anniversary of the Reformation. This truly wonderful evening was 

held at Ikebukuro’s super venue, the Tokyo Metropolitan Theater. 

The R500 organizing committee, a small group from the worlds of 

music, religion and business, got it all – and I do mean all – together 

for more than 250 orchestra and chorus members. Under the baton of 

esteemed Maestro Robert Ryker they brought together an event that 

epitomized the beauty of musical harmony. A big and much deserved 

congratulations, and thank you to the organizing committee: Mari Baba, 

Roger Brookin, William Grimm, Masao Himer, and Robert Ryker. Kudos 

as well to guest artists Misaki Morino (soprano), Johann Schram-Reed 

(bass baritone), Satoko Kawagoe (pipe organ), and the over two hundred 

musicians and vocalists from the Tokyo College of Music Chorus and 

Tokyo College of Music Symphony Orchestra. They couldn’t have been 

better. 

Mrs. International Global 2017 beauty contestants Far too many patrons 

to mention here, 

but I do want to thank 

the Embassy of the Federal 

Republic of Germany 

and the Embassy of 

the Republic of Austria 

for their support as well 

as the support of many 

others who helped make 

it all happen. 

ANTONIO INOKI 

WRESTLING EVENT 

On the sports scene, pro 

wrestler, politician, and 

long-time friend Antonio 

Inoki hosted a special 

evening. I couldn’t go, 

but it looked intriguing. 

The publicity brochure 

featured a picture of him 

wearing his traditional bright red scarf. My Japanese friends read 

the unusual party name and translated it as Inoki’s “before his funeral 

party.” I haven’t had time to look into what this actually meant, 

but I’m happy to hear he’s fine. The program featured well known 

international wrestlers from all over the world and I heard it was 

very exciting. Seat prices were ¥5,000 to ¥50,000, and I’m sure all the 

pro wrestling fans who attended thoroughly enjoyed it. 

POGOSYAN’S ARMENIAN 26TH 

INDEPENDENCE DAY AT OKURA 

Armenian Ambassador Grant Pogosyan, his wife Natalia, their son Tigran, 

and the embassy staff hosted a party at the Okura Hotel on the 

occasion of the 26th anniversary of Armenia’s independence. Guests 

included several friends I haven’t seen for some time, but there were 

also plenty of new faces. 

The ambassador’s speech was very informative and he talked 

about the many projects that Armenia and Japan have undertaken 

during their 26-year relationship. He was especially enthusiastic 

about attending the Aurora Prize 2017. This year the million dollar 

prize went to Dr. Tom Catena, a Catholic missionary who is the sole 

doctor in the Nuba Mountains in Sudan. According to all reports, the 


ARMENIAN 26TH 

INDEPENDENCE DAY 

CELEBRATION 

1. Armenian attaché and Mrs. Yeruand Markosyan 

2. Hiroko Matoba, Farida Rahman 

3. Edward Papazian, his wife Hiroko and their 

friend Zkanna Tase 4. Armenian Amb. Grant 

Pogosyan, his wife Natalia and Pres. of the 

Japan-Armenia Business and Cultural Group 

Yasumine Satake 5. Turkmenistan attaché Serdar 

Annagylyjov, Tigran Pogosyan 6. Avex Music’s 

Christopher and Stephanie 1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

8 

9 

7 

9 11 

10 

12 

TURKISH AMBASSADOR BIDS 

SAYONARA 

7. Vatican Amb. Archbishop Chennoth, popular 

politician Kazuyuki and Mrs. Yamada 

8. Panamanian Amb. Ritter N. Diaz, Tuna King 

– Kiyomura Corp. Pres. Kiyoshi Kimura 9. The 

hosting couple: Turkish Amb. Ahmet Bulent Meric 

and his wife Kumiko 10. German Amb. Hans von 

Werthern, his wife Elisabeth, Head of the Crown 

Prince Household’s Nobutake Odano, his wife 

Tamayo 11. Romanian Amb. Tatiana Iosiper, Sara 

Hitchens (United Kingdom) 12. Fashion designer 

Kansai Yamamoto, Rana Ismayilzade (Azerbaijan) 

TOKYO WEEKENDER | | DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 | 55

BRAZIL CELEBRATES 195 

YEARS OF INDEPENDENCE 

1. Uruguayan Amb. Eduardo Gabriel 

Bouzout Vignoli, Nobutake Odano 

2. Deputy Prime Minister Taro Aso, Brazil 

Amb. André Aranha Corrêa do Lago 

3. Yuko Narasawa, Maria Ignez Barbosa, 

the hostess Beatrice Corrêa do Lago 

4. Brazil Amb. Corrêa do Lago, French 

Amb. Laurent Pic 5. Staff members Paolo 

Antonio Viana and Ivan Carlo Padre Seixas 

1 

2 

7 

3 

4 5 

6 

8 

11 

9 10 

14 15 

12 

13 

AT THE GERMAN EMBASSY 

DAY OF UNITY RECEPTION 

6. German Institute for Japanese Studies 

administrative director Joachim and 

Barbara Rohr 7. Kenyan Amb. Solomon 

Maina, his wife Rose 8. The host, German 

Amb. Hans Carl Freiherr von Werthern 

and El Salvador Amb. Martha Zelayandia 

Cisneros 9. German embassy staffers 

Claudia Muller, Ulrike Erdmann 10. Kimono 

designers Nobumichi Tejima and Yoshimasa 

Takakura with Amb. and Mrs. Werthern 11. 

Mary Katayama and Elisabeth Werthern 

BRAHMS REQUIEM 

AFTER PARTY 

12. Nikkei’s Stefan Wagstyle, his wife Anna, 

Cecile Click 13. Indiana University President 

Michael A. McRobbie, HIH Princess 

Takamado, noted conductor Robert Ryker 

14. Thierry Porte and Franciscan Chapel’s 

William Grimm 15. German Amb. von 

Werthern, his wife Elisabeth, Robert Ryker, 

Michael A. McRobbie 


doctor sometimes sees as many as 500 patients a day and performs 

1,000 operations a year. 

The awards ceremony took place in Armenia, and actor/philanthropist 

George Clooney made the presentation. I have some great 

memories of George. I first met him in Hollywood at a Batman premiere 

and got to know him better when I went to Osaka with him 

to promote a Warner Brothers film. One day we were driving to a 

promotional event, and he started to sing “Tomorrow” from the musical 

Annie. He was surprised I knew the song and insisted I sing a 

duet with him. That was fun, and I feel so lucky that through friends 

like Bill Ireton, who ran Warner Brothers here for 27 years, I have 

enjoyed so many unusual showbiz experiences. 

THE MERICS RETURN TO TURKEY 

After three and a half years in Japan, Turkish Ambassador Ahmet 

Bulent Meric and his Japanese wife Kumiko have returned to Turkey 

for a new assignment. Proof of their popularity was a butt-bumping 

crowd when they hosted a sayonara at their Kenzo Tange-designed 

embassy and garden near Harajuku. 

It was several hours of short and sweet speeches, pleasant music, 

a superb Turkish buffet, and the Merics’ wonderful hospitality. Bulent 

and Kumiko were really good friends and I, as well as everyone who 

has had the privilege of getting to know them, will miss them dearly. 

So long my friends, and thank you so much for many kindnesses. Take 

care, and all the best back home. 

Hopefully I’ll see them one of these days in Turkey, a country I 

have been to several times and always enjoy visiting. 

AMBASSADOR AND SENHORA CORRÊA DO 

LAGOS’ GALA 

Back in September, Brazilian Ambassador André Aranha Corrêa do 

Lago and his dynamic wife Beatrice hosted an elegant evening at 

their beautiful embassy in Kita Aoyama. The occasion was to celebrate 

the 195th anniversary of their country’s independence. 

Deputy Prime Minister Taro Aso was a special guest, and after 

the ambassador’s welcome speech, he made a short and very informative 

speech on Brazil and Japan’s long, strong, and mutually beneficial 

relationship, and the many human ties and exchanges between 

the two countries. 

Brazil has the largest Nikkei (Japanese emigrants and their descendants 

who have created communities throughout the world) 

community in the world (around 1.9 million people), and in 2018 will 

celebrate the 110th anniversary of Japanese immigration in Brazil. 

In addition, this year, they’ll celebrate the 50th anniversary of the 

first visit of the Imperial Majesties to Brazil. The photo exhibition 

honoring the visit, which had been inaugurated at the embassy that 

day, was immensely interesting and informative. 

FASHION HAPPENINGS 

Thanks to Steve Haynes, I had the opportunity to be a judge for the 

Mrs. International Global 2017 competition in Shinjuku. A group of 

nine Japanese women took part – the youngest contestant was in 

her mid-30s and the oldest in her mid-50s. As you can see by the 

photo on the previous page, they all looked fabulous. The show’s 

main sponsor was a cosmetics company from Osaka called 727. Former 

beauty queen Diana, along with Steve and friends, organized 

the event. 

I also had a front row seat to some of the shows at Amazon 

Fashion Week, held at the many boutiques on Omotesando Street. I 

bumped into the very cool Miss Supranational Emily Shimizu, whom 

I first met when I was a judge at the Miss Supranational Japan Show. 

She’s a busy lady and was leaving in a few days to attend a contest in 

Albania. 

Modeling agencies here don’t seem to be too affected by the new 

rules and regulations in Europe and the US, and often bring in very 

young girls from Europe. Over in Europe and some cities in America, 

the bigger companies have all kinds of new regulations, like no more 

size-zero models. I’ve also heard that regulations such as not bringing 

in models under 16 are being enforced and have already caused 

problems on the runways. It’ll be interesting to see what happens 

with this in Japan. 

TO DO 

As this month’s column comes to a close, it’s mid-November and Tokyo 

is getting more beautiful for the holidays every day. Be sure and 

take your family and friends to check out Ark Hills’ lighting and the 

Grand Hyatt’s lobby. Midtown Mall is really very special as well, and 

Tokyo Tower is so cool this time of the year. 

I’ve had a 50-year relationship with the Hilton hotel here, and 

over the years I’ve worked with their dynamic PR and food and beverage 

departments on fashion shows, cultural events, movie promotions, 

and orphans’ holiday parties. They sort of spoiled me. And 

they like to spoil their guests too. 

If you take your kids to their big – and I do mean big – Cinderella 

promotion in the lobby, you’ll see what I mean. The décor, the food 

and the ambiance are really fantastic. 

By the way, I will be at what I think is my 20th Christmas party 

for less fortunate kids at the Hilton’s St. George’s Room from 3pm to 

6pm on Tuesday, December 5. The kids are six to 15 years old and 

are all very sweet. 

If you’re interested in joining a group of community minded 

people to help out, call me on 090-3200-6767 or Gonohe-san at the 

Hilton on 03-3344-5111, and we’ll assign a child for you to take care 

of during the party. I guarantee you’ll have a good time. Thanks on 

this. 

Steven Haynes and Iona at the Mrs. International 

Global 2017 beauty competition 

Filipino photographer Pawee and Yoh Miyazoe, 

President of 727 Cosmetics 

Bill, Miss Supranational Emily Shimizu, 

Raymond Johnson 


[ PROMOTION ] 

WAYS TO 

DEVOUR 

TOKYO 

Everybody knows that Tokyo is one 

of the food capitals of the world. Here 

are a few things any traveler should 

have on their menu 

BEEF UP 

Wagyu is Japanese beef that’s 

known for its rich marbling 

and its decadently succulent 

flavor. Of course, this kind of 

quality doesn’t come without a 

hefty price tag, but this is one 

luxury that you’ll definitely 

want to spring for. Some of 

the best places to splurge: 

either of Ukai-Tei’s locations 

(there’s one in Ginza and one 

in Omotesando), Yoroniku 

in Aoyama, and Kobe Beef 

Kaiseki 511 in Akasaka. 

SAVOR SOME SUSHI 

If you spent any time in Tokyo and didn’t feast on 

sushi, your friends and family might just put you on 

plane and send you back for a return visit. It might 

be tough to get a seat at world famous Sukiyabashi 

Jiro, but there are plenty of other options: look for 

fancy fare at Kyubey or Tsugu Sushimasa, head 

down to Tsukiji’s sushi spots for some of the freshest 

fish around, or go for a playful take on conveyor 

belt sushi at Sushi Go Round. 

GET DOWN WITH ODEN 

A classic winter food, oden comes in a wide variety 

of shapes and sizes, all served up in a hot broth. 

Everything from miniature sausages to boiled 

daikon or tomatoes fits into the category of oden, 

but perhaps the best-known variety are the many 

items that are made from fish cake or konnyaku. 

You can find restaurants that specialize in oden (try 

Somen under the Nakameguro railway tracks), but 

there’s really nothing wrong with getting it from the 

combini. Not sure what a particular item’s called? 

Just point at the pictures and you’ll be fine. 

LEAVE ROOM 

FOR DESSERT 

If you’re looking for sweets that 

are going to be as fun to look 

at as they are to eat, you’re in 

the right place. You can find 

unicorn cupcakes and other 

creations at Monarch of London 

in Shibuya, while Dominique 

Ansel in Omotesando or Ginza 

has more brilliant confections 

on hand than Willy Wonka. For 

sheer technicolor explosions, try 

Gram Factory’s shaved ice shop 

in Shimokitazawa, or the Kyary 

Pamyu Pamyu themed Kawaii 

Monster Café in Harajuku. 

HELP YOURSELF 

TO A BOWLFUL 

Ramen is one of the 

country’s most recognizable 

soul foods, and pretty much 

every prefecture puts its own 

spin on the noodle. Here 

are the basics: shio ramen 

means a salt based broth 

with a pretty light flavor, 

shoyu is a soy sauce based 

soup, and tonkotsu features 

a broth made from pork 

bones. More exotic versions 

of the dish can feature soup 

flavored with everything 

from tomato to green curry. 

FEAST ON FAST INTERNET, 

WHEREVER YOU ARE 

No matter where your sense of 

adventure – or your appetite – takes 

you in Japan, you don’t want to miss 

out on uploading your pictures and 

posts, finding your way around, and 

staying in touch with your friends 

while you’re on the go. When you 

rent a Pocket WiFi from Global 

Mobile, you can be online all the 

time, with blazing fast LTE. Service 

is available for as little as ¥200 

a day. For more details, visit 

www.gmobile.biz/softbank/inbound. 



To all investors and customers of The Parkhouse series: 

The Mitsubishi Jisho Residence overseas 

sales team is on hand for all your needs 

For the most up-to-date information about Mitsubishi Jisho 

Residence's new real estate projects, please visit our 

English website at www.mecsumai.com/international/en 

For inquiries, please email mjrtph@mec-r.com 

Live in a Home for Life. The Parkhouse

Tokyo Weekender - December 2017 - January 2018

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