Tokyo Weekender - November 2017

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around the spectacular Geibikei (Geibi Gorge)
is fascinating in any season, though autumn
is the most delightful time to visit. The nearby
Genbikei is a humbler gorge, but pleasant
nonetheless. Whilst in the area a visit to the
town of Hiraizumi is a must. As Tohoku's first
UNESCO World Heritage Site, it features some
of the region's most precious historic and
cultural properties. The Sanriku Coast should
also be explored. Along the way, stop off at
the impressive cliffs of Kitayamazaki and
relax near the iconic rocks of Jodogahama
Beach.
FUKUSHIMA
Unfortunately, due to the nuclear crisis, many
are still reluctant to go to Fukushima, yet the
vast majority of this delightful prefecture is
perfectly fine and open for business as usual.
The no-entry zone around Fukushima Daiichi
Nuclear Power Plant makes up less than
three percent of the area, while the rest of the
5,320-square-mile region has been deemed
safe so tourists can wander around without
fear. Those concerned about food grown in
the prefecture can experience the Study Farm
in Nihonmatsu and speak with local farmers.
With around 135 onsen in total, Fukushima
is known as a hot spring haven. Some
of the surrounding scenery is majestic, especially
landscapes shaped by past volcanic activity.
A prime example is Mt. Bandai, which
last erupted in 1888. It led to the creation of a
cluster of five lakes known as Goshikinuma,
each of which has its own delicate
color ranging from cobalt blue to reddish
green. The imposing mountain overlooks
the samurai town of Aizu-Wakamatsu which
boasts a rich warrior history dating back
more than 1,000 years. The town's main attraction
is Tsuruga Castle, a concrete replica
of the Kurokawa Castle built in 1384.
YAMAGATA
Another prefecture famed for its hot
springs, Yamagata is a pleasant place to visit
all year round. However, it is especially
popular in the early part of the summer
when people go to pick cherries, and in
winter when many tourists hit the slopes.
One of the most picturesque locations is
Zao Onsen, a well-known ski and hot spring
resort where you can see ice trees that are
known as snow monsters. The best time to
view them is in the evening from a café at
the summit when they are lit up.
After a long day skiing or snowboarding,
it's also nice to take a dip in one of Zao's
relaxing hot spring baths. While not as
famous as the secluded onsen town of Ginzan,
the water in the area is among the most
acidic in the country with a pH value of
close to one. Zao's main and most dazzling
attraction is the teal-hued crater lake on the
mountain bordering Yamagata and Miyagi
known as "Okama" (bowl), which simply put
is one of the most spectacular spots in all of
Japan. Other eye-catching locations in the
prefecture include the revered religious site
of Dewa Sanzan in Mount Haguro and Risshaku-ji,
a mountain temple with stunning
views of Yamagata City.
AOMORI
The northernmost prefecture in Honshu,
Aomori is known for its abundance of
natural beauty and delightful water. Nowhere
is this more evident than at Oirase
Mountain Stream where you can see almost
30 crystal clear cascading waterfalls within
a 14-kilometer hike through the deciduous
forest. Designated a special scenic spot and
natural monument of the prefecture, it's one
of Tohoku's most alluring sites. Be warned
though, it can get crowded in autumn due to
the dazzling foliage colors.
Connected to Oirase Stream is Lake Towada,
the largest caldera lake in Honshu, where
the water is so translucent you can see down
for 10 meters. Other well-known sites in Aomori
worth going to are Hirosaki Castle, especially
during spring when thousands of cherry
trees are in bloom, and Sannai-Maruyama, a
Jomon period archaeological site discovered
by accident while surveying land to build a
community baseball field. The most exciting
time to visit the prefecture is early in August
when the country's largest Nebuta Festival
takes place. Nebuta refers to the float of a
warrior figure that's carried through the city.
If you can't make it in the summer, the next
best option is to visit the Nebuta Warasse
Museum featuring all kinds of memorabilia
from the festival's 300-year history.
AKITA
When it comes to tourism, Akita feels relatively
untouched compared to the country's
more glamorous prefectures, and this is part
of the region's charm. It's a great opportunity
to escape the large crowds and enjoy the
attractive natural wonders on view such as
Lake Tazawa and the beech forest of Nyuto
Village featuring seven hot spring baths,
each with their own water source. The most
famous site in the area is Shirakami-Sanchi,
a vast mountain range that straddles both
Akita and Aomori. There are numerous
scenic treasures along the way including the
mesmerizing sapphire-blue pond.
Winters can be quite harsh in Akita,
but don't let that put you off. For many,
it's the best time to be there as there are
many intriguing festivals. A ritual known as
Namahage, in which men dressed as ogrelike
figures descend from the mountains
with drums and torches looking for naughty
children, takes place at the end of the year.
In mid-February the city of Yokote is taken
over by igloos for the 400-year-old Kamakura
Snow Festival. Around the same time the Hiburi
Kamakura Fire-spinning Festival is held
in the samurai town of Kakunodate.
(For even more things to do in Akita, check out
our supplement guide, included in this issue.)
TOKYO WEEKENDER | NOVEMBER 2017 | 45