Tokyo Weekender - November 2017

TOP THINGS
TO DO, SEE,
AND EAT
IN TOHOKU
The 2011 earthquake and tsunami left the Tohoku region devastated,
but far from beaten. If you’re planning a visit to the area, check out
our guide to exploring and dining (including halal options), as well
as places to reflect on the effects of the disaster
Words by Matthew Hernon
While there is still much to do to
aid the recovery effort in the
north-eastern portion of Honshu,
remarkable progress has
been made over the past six and a half years,
particularly in the worst hit prefectures of
Fukushima, Miyagi and Iwate.
Tourism in Tohoku – which also includes
Aomori, Akita and Yamagata (these prefectures
suffered only minor damage from the
disaster, but have continued to provide support
for their neighbors in Tohoku) – suffered
as a result of the disaster, but has seen an
increase in the number of visitors to the
area since 2015. Despite this, it remains one
of the most underrated areas in all of Japan,
boasting natural wonders, rustic hot spring
towns, lively festivals, all kinds of culinary
delights and so much more.
Here, we round up some of the top
activities and sights in the different prefectures,
while being mindful of recovery
efforts. Over the page, we gather together
some of our favorite eats, and offer a guide
for those looking for halal foods and
Muslim-friendly facilities.
TOP THINGS
TO DO
MIYAGI
Disposing of the staggering 15.6 million tons
of debris was just one of the herculean tasks
Miyagi citizens faced following the tragedy
in 2011. The fishing town of Ishinomaki
alone was burdened with around 6.2 million
tons. Though the rubble has since been
cleared, the affected coastal areas remain
barren. Looking out over the waterfront from
the hilltop park of Hiyoriyama provides a
stark reminder of the destruction. There are
guided tours around disaster areas to help
raise awareness of tsunami preparedness and
at Oginohama Elementary School you can
see the works of artist Parco Kinoshita who's
carving thousands of mini wooden statues in
honor of those killed on March 11.
It's a day that locals will never forget, but
they are determined to push forward and
encourage more visitors to the area. A tour
from Ishinomaki to the islands of Tashirojima
(pictured left) and Matsushima is particularly
popular. The former is home to more cats
than people, while the latter is considered
one of the three great scenic spots of Japan.
Taking a dip in an open-air bath overlooking
Matsushima Bay is highly recommended.
It's also worth spending time in the "City of
Trees" that is Sendai, especially during the
Aoba Festival in May, which commemorates
the death of Daimyo Date Masamune.
IWATE
The second largest prefecture in Japan, Iwate
was severely damaged as a result of the
earthquake and tsunami. One of the worst hit
areas was Rikuzentakata, a coastal city that's
become an international symbol of resilience
and reclamation. A 250-year-old miracle
pine tree, the only one among 70,000 trees
left standing after the devastation (it was
preserved using a rod and synthetic branches
when salt water destroyed its roots in 2012),
attracts busloads of tourists and there are
opportunities to work with local farmers,
fishermen and craftspeople as part of the
Marugoto Rikuzentakata Project.
When it comes to natural wealth, few
prefectures are as rich as Iwate. A boat ride
44 | NOVEMBER 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER