Smorgasboarder_23_Feb_2016-s

LATEST: TRAVEL
“Surfing in its
purest form isn’t
just about wave
count and seconds
in a tube. It’s
understanding
that EVERYTHING is
interconnected. ”
Photo Howard Patrick
Photo Howard Patrick
Surfer Kimbo Fafie
Photo Mike Findlay
WHEN YOU’RE SURFING
The fact that the Killer Whale decided to surf here at all, is a clear testament
of just how good the wave quality is. Although I could go into a detailed
description of the wave set-up, I’m not going to. If you’re a surfer, and you
know anything about the waves in Indonesia, then you know exactly where
I am and how the line-up works. Suffice to say though that the waves here
can satisfy every level of confidence. Deeper sections that can hold size with
a make-able take-off and a following freight train ride; sections that you had
better be on your game because you’ll need to drop straight into a heaving
barrel; sections that you think you can make but pick you up and remind you
that you’re no Kelly Slater. Surfing here is definitely not for the faint of heart.
The waves can be humbling. They can also be the best waves of your life.
No matter how your daily session goes though (thrown around like a
rag-doll or a day of infinite barrels), you’ll inevitably find yourself on the
beach at sunset; a cold Bintang in hand as stories of waves scored and
beatings had are relived and shared. Told with equal enthusiasm are the
experiences of wild boars, giant eagles, thieving monkeys, territorial
woodpeckers, enormous lizards, weird-looking sea-creatures, and all the
other unique experiences that were seen and felt over the course of the
day. To have a surf trip without the latter is to lose sight of what surfing
really is; a complete synching with life’s natural rhythm. You don’t need to
deconstruct this connection; you just feel it.
Surfing in its purest form isn’t just about wave count and seconds in a tube.
It’s understanding that EVERYTHING is interconnected. It’s knowing that
rather than fight the current, we’re better off letting it guide and work for us.
Don’t get me wrong. Surfing isn’t just a spiritual experience. There’s no
greater buzz than on a wave well surfed. The feeling of connecting and
harnessing a wave’s energy, and then possessing the skill to use that energy
and rip, is indescribable to a non-surfer. They will never get it, and we will
never be able to live without it. Surfing is the best reminder of just how
damn lucky we are to be alive.
So the next time that we paddle out, no matter where we’re lucky enough
to be, let’s leave aggression and life dissatisfaction to those who will never
know the beauty of surfing. Whether we’re surfing 3ft crowded burgers at
our local, or scoring 8ft Indo with a few mates, there’s one thing that I can
guarantee; Life is better when you’re surfing.
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SMORGASBOARDER | SUMMER 2016