Smorgasboarder_23_Feb_2016-s
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SURFING AND SURFBOARDS<br />
As with his art, surfing forms a large part of<br />
Brett’s life and indeed that of his family.<br />
“Growing up at Lennox and surfing the area<br />
was pretty bloody awesome. Boulders Beach<br />
was my local. I used to walk through the bush<br />
to get to it. Only a few locals back in the<br />
day. The place is a bit of a circus nowadays<br />
although the recent spate of shark activity<br />
seems to have brought it back a notch.<br />
“Down here I pretty much surf by myself. It<br />
is a pleasure to be in the water all alone and<br />
pick any wave that you want, seeing the sun<br />
rise. My regular aim is to be barrelled with<br />
the stars still out. That is what I love.”<br />
Aside from Brett’s night-surfing exploits (call me Mr<br />
Chicken but there is no friggin way I would surf at<br />
dark down where he lives as much as I love the place)<br />
he also gets the chance to regularly share a couple<br />
of waves with his partner Joel and daughters Asher<br />
and Alex.<br />
“Joel has been surfing as long as I have. It’s definitely<br />
an added bonus in a relationship having a partner<br />
that surfs and now that our kids do it as well it is<br />
awesome. It’s a bit of a dream for my missus and I<br />
that we would be out surfing with our kids and it’s<br />
great it is all happening that way.”<br />
A few years back Brett took to shaping a few<br />
surfboards of his own. He informs me he is now<br />
into double figures having made boards not only for<br />
himself but for family and friends.<br />
“The main reason I got into making surfboards was<br />
because a little while back I became a bit disillusioned<br />
with surfing and the techniques of making surfboards<br />
and their toxicity. I got to a point I was going to give<br />
it away because it was so mainstream and so crazy.<br />
<strong>Smorgasboarder</strong> was in fact the catalyst to getting<br />
into making timber surfboards, where I also happened<br />
to find the ad for Tree to Sea. It was precisely what I<br />
needed to bring my surfing into a more conscious state.<br />
Your mag is a breath of fresh air amongst standard<br />
mags, which I haven’t purchased for near 20 years.<br />
“Down here I pretty much surf<br />
by myself. It is a pleasure to<br />
be in the water all alone and<br />
pick any wave that you want,<br />
seeing the sun rise. My regular<br />
aim is to be barrelled with<br />
the stars still out.<br />
That is what I love.”<br />
SUMMER <strong>2016</strong> | SMORGASBOARDER<br />
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