Smorgasboarder_11_May-2012

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Late in the afternoon after our surf in Sumner we left Christchurch for the small port city of Timaru where we stayed the night, which coincidentally meant ‘Place of Shelter’ in Maori. We rose early and got underway on our journey to Dunedin. There was damn cold water to face and surf to be had. When we started scouring our route for a spot to grab some breakfast we hadn’t figured on stumbling on a town so remarkable as Oamaru. Imposing 19th century limestone buildings lined narrow streets around the harbour. These beautifully preserved historic commercial buildings are remnants of a formerly prosperous refrigerated-meat shipping industry. This fascinating precinct is now home to a variety of bookshops, antique galleries, cafes, restaurants and a very enticing specialist whisky bar, The NZ Malt Whiskey Co. Further along there’s Steampunk HQ, a kind of way-out gallery come something-or-the-other that transports visitors to a parallel universe where electricity was never invented and steam powers futuristic technological marvels. Oamaru’s also renown for its yellow-eyed penguin colony at Bushy Beach. Not stopping long enough to see those, we left, still famished, and set off on the road again. Along the way we stumbled on the tiny fishing village of Moeraki and a restaurant called ‘Fleurs Place’, which we later read was established on an early whaling station site and had been built from gathered collectables and demolition materials from all over New Zealand. We had no idea where we were and hungrily asked about breakfast. The place didn’t do breakfasts we were told apologetically, but the smiling waitress offered to find out if the chef would be able to whip something up for us anyway... The more we thought about this being a little odd, we realised that ‘Fleur’, was one and the same as the Fleur Sullivan who had made her reputation as a top foodie in the Central Otago region, receiving numerous awards in her time. British television chef and restauranteur Rick Stein chose Fleurs Place when he was asked to choose anywhere in the world to write a travel article for English newspaper the Daily Mail. The waitress returned with the offer of bacon and eggs, which was music to our ears and our rumbling stomachs. We grabbed a table where we were served the best breakfast we have ever had in our entire lives. 100 may/jun <strong>2012</strong>
PHOTOS: BEN VOS TRAVEL SURF TRIP LEFT ACROSS: A motorhome we didn’t get to test. ABOVE: There’s never never any shortage of creativity and in the most unlikely places - a flaming apocalypitic steam engine decorated with skeletons sits quite comfortably in the Victorian precinct of Oamaru. LEFT: Fleur’s Place in Moeraki - hands down, the best bacon and eggs we will ever have. may/jun <strong>2012</strong> 101
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