Tokyo Weekender - October 2017

LADA GAGA HAS SHOPPED HERE
Immediately after crossing the iridescent Tsukuda
Kobashi bridge, visitors are usually confronted by a small
group of people lined up outside Hideyasu Nakajima’s
small, ramshackle store of traditional monozukuri
(artisanship). In this case the monozukuri on display is
Nakajima’s handcrafted and legendary eight-sided chopsticks
and eye-wateringly expensive lacquerware. Lady
Gaga and several other celebs are big fans of this place
and the shokunin (artisan) has been featured in publications
such as GQ and a multitude of respected guidebooks.
One of the charming idiosyncrasies of Tsukuda is the fact
that sometimes the stores there are unmanned. The owners
naturally trust that customers will always do the right
thing and leave payment for anything bought. It’s a legacy
from Japan’s rural and agricultural past and something
not usually associated with the hustle and bustle of 21st
century life in an international city.
SEEK AND YOU SHALL FIND…
In addition to some beautiful and authentic nagaya (wooden
houses), the tiny island has some gems hidden away in its
nooks and crannies. Tucked down a tiny alleyway between
two rows of houses is the Buddhist Tsukuda Tenzai Jizoson,
which is the “Guardian Deity of Children” according to a
posted sign. It’s a tiny dimly lit room with a huge old tree
standing in the middle of it. As you walk down this atmospheric
passageway you are met by the compact Namiyoke
Inari Jinja – devoted to the protection of local fishermen.
Further across the island is Sumiyoshi Shrine, the architectural
highlight of any visit here. The shrine, established in
the 1600s, stands proud across from Tsukuda Park, which
is a few minutes from the calming Sumida riverbank, and
under the apartment buildings that encircle the island.
TOKYO WEEKENDER | OCTOBER 2017 | 9