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Tokyo Weekender - October 2017

A day in the life of a geisha. Find your perfect Kyushu. Plus Q&A with anime director Keiichi Hara, are robots taking our jobs?, Explore Japanese cuisine at GINZA SIX, and Tsukuda guide

A day in the life of a geisha. Find your perfect Kyushu. Plus Q&A with anime director Keiichi Hara, are robots taking our jobs?, Explore Japanese cuisine at GINZA SIX, and Tsukuda guide

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Photo by Saskia Wesserling<br />

taking lessons in music and/or dance. Once<br />

the new geisha can perform well enough to<br />

attend banquets she learns how to entertain<br />

by watching her older sisters work. How long<br />

this takes depends on how strict the district<br />

is. Some Kyoto maiko debut in as little as<br />

three months, but in conservative Asakusa, I<br />

did a very long apprenticeship for 11 months.<br />

As does any trainee who is past her early<br />

twenties, I debuted directly as a geisha rather<br />

than as a maiko or hangyoku as they are<br />

called in <strong>Tokyo</strong>.<br />

WHAT IS THE MOST IMPORTANT<br />

ASPECT OF BEING A GEISHA?<br />

Geisha need to be everything to everyone. A<br />

banquet with Japanese guests who have been<br />

commuting to the geisha world for decades<br />

is different to a banquet for first-time foreign<br />

tourists, and different again to an expat<br />

family party with kids. We always need to be<br />

aware of how we can cater best to our customers<br />

and make sure they have a wonderful<br />

time. It takes time to learn<br />

to be very sensitive and always aware of our<br />

customers’ needs. In the end, though, if a geisha<br />

does not love her art, then it doesn’t last.<br />

WHAT’S THE BEST PART OF THE JOB?<br />

To be a geisha is to be in a very beautiful<br />

world, surrounded by beautiful women, and<br />

beautiful things, and entertaining in beautiful<br />

places. It is difficult to have a truly beautiful<br />

WHAT’S THE MOST UNEXPECTED<br />

PART OF JOB?<br />

Many people think that a banquet is a very<br />

stiff formal occasion, but depending on<br />

what the customers want, banquets can be<br />

very raucous! The older Fukagawa geisha<br />

have some great drinking games and<br />

Japanese really love to get into the swing<br />

of things. At a recent banquet things got<br />

so wild that we had to keep covering the<br />

trainee geisha’s eyes!<br />

WHY WOULD YOU RECOMMEND<br />

PEOPLE TRY THE GEISHA<br />

EXPERIENCE?<br />

To attend a genuine geisha banquet<br />

is to see the most beautiful of traditional<br />

Japanese architecture in the teahouses,<br />

the most precious artworks, and<br />

calligraphy and pottery in the interiors<br />

of the teahouses, the best of Japanese<br />

kimono in the geisha’s attire, and the<br />

best of Japanese cuisine and sake, and of<br />

course, an introduction to Japanese music<br />

and dance. There is no other single experience<br />

or occasion in which you can get<br />

such a completely comprehensive cultural<br />

experience.<br />

AT A RECENT BANQUET THINGS GOT SO WILD THAT WE<br />

HAD TO KEEP COVERING THE TRAINEE GEISHA’S EYES!<br />

life, but this comes close to it. Now we are<br />

in the first days of autumn, for my next<br />

banquet I will choose a single-layered silk<br />

kimono, with a design predicting the autumn<br />

soon to come. I have hundreds of kimono<br />

now, but a geisha can never have enough!<br />

There is a lot of giving and receiving of kimono<br />

in the geisha world: the geisha mother<br />

I had when I was in Asakusa called me out<br />

just recently to give me another of hers: a<br />

beautiful dark blue banquet kimono with<br />

fine gold patterns.<br />

WHAT KIND OF EVENT WOULD YOU<br />

RECOMMEND HIRING A GEISHA FOR?<br />

Every occasion! Apart from the normal banquet,<br />

geisha have always been hired for celebratory<br />

occasions of any kind. Geisha appear<br />

at the openings of new shops, or on the first<br />

day of the sumo or theatre. In modern times,<br />

we have danced at Narita Airport for the<br />

opening of new flights, danced at Frankfurt<br />

Messe trade show, attended parties at private<br />

homes, gone out on boats in <strong>Tokyo</strong> Bay or even<br />

entertained on the ski slopes in Niseko. Geisha<br />

can be called anywhere in the world too.<br />

I very much welcome any ideas to connect<br />

with new audiences.<br />

IS IT EXPENSIVE TO CALL A GEISHA,<br />

AND WHAT ARE SOME OF THE<br />

OPTIONS?<br />

It is the ratio of geisha to customers that<br />

decides the price, so if you want to make<br />

it cheaper, get some friends together and<br />

organize a larger group. Our most exciting<br />

new project for the Fukagawa geisha is our<br />

Geisha School. We have opened up the lessons<br />

of the little geisha for the very first time, so<br />

that anyone can come and watch a dance or<br />

music lesson by the older geisha. This is a very<br />

cheap way to meet geisha, and a great way to<br />

support the geisha world, as all proceeds will<br />

go directly to the training of the young geisha.<br />

If you would like to visit a teahouse, just email<br />

me and let me know how many people you<br />

are, and what your maximum budget is per<br />

person, then I can make all the arrangements<br />

for you. Recently I have been given the use<br />

of a beautiful 100-year-old house in Kamakura.<br />

We can arrange private parties there, or<br />

customers can use the house for the weekend<br />

with a banquet on a Friday or Saturday. We<br />

are happy to cater for a range of budgets.<br />

WHAT OTHER SERVICES DO YOU<br />

OFFER?<br />

Apart from banquets, I offer a number of other<br />

activities including “lunch with Sayuki” (a<br />

lunch with me to talk about the geisha world),<br />

geisha shopping (visiting the beautiful little<br />

shops and craftsmen making the products<br />

that geisha use), kimono shopping (a complete<br />

introduction to kimono by visiting the best<br />

recycled kimono shops), antique market<br />

shopping (finding genuine samurai armour<br />

or geisha pillows, antique pottery and ukiyo-e<br />

paintings, all at rock bottom prices), kabuki<br />

viewing (offering extra commentary while<br />

watching kabuki).<br />

CALL SAYUKI<br />

You can contact Sayuki directly at<br />

sayuki.geisha@gmail.com for all enquiries,<br />

and to call her and her geisha sisters<br />

to events across <strong>Tokyo</strong> and beyond.<br />

Find out more at www.sayuki.net<br />

TOKYO WEEKENDER | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | 25

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