Tokyo Weekender - October 2017
A day in the life of a geisha. Find your perfect Kyushu. Plus Q&A with anime director Keiichi Hara, are robots taking our jobs?, Explore Japanese cuisine at GINZA SIX, and Tsukuda guide
A day in the life of a geisha. Find your perfect Kyushu. Plus Q&A with anime director Keiichi Hara, are robots taking our jobs?, Explore Japanese cuisine at GINZA SIX, and Tsukuda guide
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Photo by Saskia Wesserling<br />
taking lessons in music and/or dance. Once<br />
the new geisha can perform well enough to<br />
attend banquets she learns how to entertain<br />
by watching her older sisters work. How long<br />
this takes depends on how strict the district<br />
is. Some Kyoto maiko debut in as little as<br />
three months, but in conservative Asakusa, I<br />
did a very long apprenticeship for 11 months.<br />
As does any trainee who is past her early<br />
twenties, I debuted directly as a geisha rather<br />
than as a maiko or hangyoku as they are<br />
called in <strong>Tokyo</strong>.<br />
WHAT IS THE MOST IMPORTANT<br />
ASPECT OF BEING A GEISHA?<br />
Geisha need to be everything to everyone. A<br />
banquet with Japanese guests who have been<br />
commuting to the geisha world for decades<br />
is different to a banquet for first-time foreign<br />
tourists, and different again to an expat<br />
family party with kids. We always need to be<br />
aware of how we can cater best to our customers<br />
and make sure they have a wonderful<br />
time. It takes time to learn<br />
to be very sensitive and always aware of our<br />
customers’ needs. In the end, though, if a geisha<br />
does not love her art, then it doesn’t last.<br />
WHAT’S THE BEST PART OF THE JOB?<br />
To be a geisha is to be in a very beautiful<br />
world, surrounded by beautiful women, and<br />
beautiful things, and entertaining in beautiful<br />
places. It is difficult to have a truly beautiful<br />
WHAT’S THE MOST UNEXPECTED<br />
PART OF JOB?<br />
Many people think that a banquet is a very<br />
stiff formal occasion, but depending on<br />
what the customers want, banquets can be<br />
very raucous! The older Fukagawa geisha<br />
have some great drinking games and<br />
Japanese really love to get into the swing<br />
of things. At a recent banquet things got<br />
so wild that we had to keep covering the<br />
trainee geisha’s eyes!<br />
WHY WOULD YOU RECOMMEND<br />
PEOPLE TRY THE GEISHA<br />
EXPERIENCE?<br />
To attend a genuine geisha banquet<br />
is to see the most beautiful of traditional<br />
Japanese architecture in the teahouses,<br />
the most precious artworks, and<br />
calligraphy and pottery in the interiors<br />
of the teahouses, the best of Japanese<br />
kimono in the geisha’s attire, and the<br />
best of Japanese cuisine and sake, and of<br />
course, an introduction to Japanese music<br />
and dance. There is no other single experience<br />
or occasion in which you can get<br />
such a completely comprehensive cultural<br />
experience.<br />
AT A RECENT BANQUET THINGS GOT SO WILD THAT WE<br />
HAD TO KEEP COVERING THE TRAINEE GEISHA’S EYES!<br />
life, but this comes close to it. Now we are<br />
in the first days of autumn, for my next<br />
banquet I will choose a single-layered silk<br />
kimono, with a design predicting the autumn<br />
soon to come. I have hundreds of kimono<br />
now, but a geisha can never have enough!<br />
There is a lot of giving and receiving of kimono<br />
in the geisha world: the geisha mother<br />
I had when I was in Asakusa called me out<br />
just recently to give me another of hers: a<br />
beautiful dark blue banquet kimono with<br />
fine gold patterns.<br />
WHAT KIND OF EVENT WOULD YOU<br />
RECOMMEND HIRING A GEISHA FOR?<br />
Every occasion! Apart from the normal banquet,<br />
geisha have always been hired for celebratory<br />
occasions of any kind. Geisha appear<br />
at the openings of new shops, or on the first<br />
day of the sumo or theatre. In modern times,<br />
we have danced at Narita Airport for the<br />
opening of new flights, danced at Frankfurt<br />
Messe trade show, attended parties at private<br />
homes, gone out on boats in <strong>Tokyo</strong> Bay or even<br />
entertained on the ski slopes in Niseko. Geisha<br />
can be called anywhere in the world too.<br />
I very much welcome any ideas to connect<br />
with new audiences.<br />
IS IT EXPENSIVE TO CALL A GEISHA,<br />
AND WHAT ARE SOME OF THE<br />
OPTIONS?<br />
It is the ratio of geisha to customers that<br />
decides the price, so if you want to make<br />
it cheaper, get some friends together and<br />
organize a larger group. Our most exciting<br />
new project for the Fukagawa geisha is our<br />
Geisha School. We have opened up the lessons<br />
of the little geisha for the very first time, so<br />
that anyone can come and watch a dance or<br />
music lesson by the older geisha. This is a very<br />
cheap way to meet geisha, and a great way to<br />
support the geisha world, as all proceeds will<br />
go directly to the training of the young geisha.<br />
If you would like to visit a teahouse, just email<br />
me and let me know how many people you<br />
are, and what your maximum budget is per<br />
person, then I can make all the arrangements<br />
for you. Recently I have been given the use<br />
of a beautiful 100-year-old house in Kamakura.<br />
We can arrange private parties there, or<br />
customers can use the house for the weekend<br />
with a banquet on a Friday or Saturday. We<br />
are happy to cater for a range of budgets.<br />
WHAT OTHER SERVICES DO YOU<br />
OFFER?<br />
Apart from banquets, I offer a number of other<br />
activities including “lunch with Sayuki” (a<br />
lunch with me to talk about the geisha world),<br />
geisha shopping (visiting the beautiful little<br />
shops and craftsmen making the products<br />
that geisha use), kimono shopping (a complete<br />
introduction to kimono by visiting the best<br />
recycled kimono shops), antique market<br />
shopping (finding genuine samurai armour<br />
or geisha pillows, antique pottery and ukiyo-e<br />
paintings, all at rock bottom prices), kabuki<br />
viewing (offering extra commentary while<br />
watching kabuki).<br />
CALL SAYUKI<br />
You can contact Sayuki directly at<br />
sayuki.geisha@gmail.com for all enquiries,<br />
and to call her and her geisha sisters<br />
to events across <strong>Tokyo</strong> and beyond.<br />
Find out more at www.sayuki.net<br />
TOKYO WEEKENDER | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | 25