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Tokyo Weekender - October 2017

A day in the life of a geisha. Find your perfect Kyushu. Plus Q&A with anime director Keiichi Hara, are robots taking our jobs?, Explore Japanese cuisine at GINZA SIX, and Tsukuda guide

A day in the life of a geisha. Find your perfect Kyushu. Plus Q&A with anime director Keiichi Hara, are robots taking our jobs?, Explore Japanese cuisine at GINZA SIX, and Tsukuda guide

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[ PROMOTION ]<br />

YOU’LL NEED TO BRAVE A STEEP STAIRWAY TO<br />

REACH THE TOP, BUT THE FEELING OF BEING INSIDE A<br />

PICTURESQUE OIL PAINTING IS WORTH THE EFFORT<br />

SAGA BEEF<br />

Known for being one of the best wagyu beef<br />

brands in Japan, Saga Beef benefits from the<br />

prefecture’s mild climate, pure water, and<br />

clean air. The Japanese Black cows are raised<br />

using expert breeding techniques, ensuring<br />

they do not experience any major stress. To<br />

taste this deliciously sweet and rich marbled<br />

beef, we recommend Kira, a renowned<br />

restaurant in central Saga that’s run by Japan<br />

Agricultural Cooperatives. We stopped by for<br />

lunch and ordered thin strips of Saga gyu,<br />

which we cooked ourselves on the iron plate<br />

grill in the center of the table, served with a<br />

large bowl of vegetables, salad, miso soup,<br />

rice, and pickles. Undoubtedly one of the most<br />

succulent beef dishes we’ve ever tasted. You<br />

can also order it as steak, or take a seat at the<br />

teppanyaki counter to watch the chef at work.<br />

(If you can’t make it all the way to Saga, note<br />

they also have a branch in Ginza, <strong>Tokyo</strong>.) 3-9-<br />

16 Otakara, Saga-shi, Saga. kira.saga-ja.jp/en<br />

IKIZUKURI SQUID<br />

Of course Japan in its entirety is famed for having the freshest, most delicious seafood, but if you<br />

want to experience local cuisine at its source, it’s best to visit a port town and try their speciality.<br />

In Saga, there’s one such city called Karatsu, which is famed for its port area called Yobuko. Here<br />

you should order ikizukuri – live squid that’s so live it squirms on your plate. Early risers will<br />

enjoy visiting the Yobuko Morning Market, where you can opt for dried squid should the live<br />

version be a tad too much for you. This market dates back to the early 1900s, and is considered<br />

one of the three biggest fish markets of Japan.<br />

KARATSU KUNCHI FESTIVAL<br />

This autumn matsuri is held at Karatsu Shrine<br />

and is one of Kyushu’s major festivals, dating<br />

back about 400 years and attracting 500,000<br />

visitors. What makes this festival particularly<br />

interesting is its unique hikiyama (giant floats).<br />

The first in the series of 14 was made by a<br />

woodcarving craftsman in 1819 and is called<br />

Akajishi (Red Lion float). The other 13 were all<br />

produced over the next 60 years, and feature<br />

awe-inspiring designs – probably the most<br />

unusual one is The Red Snapper, which literally<br />

looks like a fish and is meant to represent the<br />

fish markets from the old days. The floats each<br />

weigh two to five tons, and measure 4.5 to 6.8<br />

meters in height. If you can’t make it in time to<br />

see the floats being hauled along the street, or<br />

through the sand on Nishinohama Beach, you<br />

can still see them on display at the Hikiyama<br />

Exhibition Hall (6-33 Nishi-Jonai, Karatsu-shi,<br />

Saga). November 2-4, beginning at Karatsu<br />

Shrine, 3-13 Minami-Jonai, Karatsu-shi, Saga.<br />

SAGA INTERNATIONAL BALLOON FIESTA<br />

Held annually at the beginning of November, along the Kase River, this international hot air<br />

balloon competition is the largest of its kind in Asia. Boasting over 800,000 visitors every year,<br />

the event sees around 100 colorful balloons gathering and taking flight before landing several<br />

kilometers away from the fiesta grounds. There are competitive flights, which are held twice a<br />

day; the official balloons, which fly just before the main competition begins; and the Fantasia<br />

balloons, which are shaped to look like animals and cartoon characters, and are inflated every<br />

morning although they don’t actually lift off the ground. November 1-5, <strong>2017</strong>. www.sibf.jp/en<br />

TOKYO WEEKENDER | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | 23

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