Tokyo Weekender - October 2017

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[ PROMOTION ] Trip 3: FOR ADVENTURE SEEKERS Kagoshima Prefecture SAKURAJIMA VOLCANO As we stepped off the train at Kagoshima, it took us a moment to realize why there was a tinge of smoke in the air – then we remembered our destination, Sakurajima, is an active volcano. Erupting (harmlessly) hundreds of times a year, Sakurajima is one of Kyushu’s most unique destinations, with volcano-related attractions like a hot spring filled with dark, volcanic mineral-infused water. Skeptical? Give it a try at the free footbaths, where you can take in a view of the city and volcano across the bay. To get closer to said volcano, hop on a local bus (one leaves every hour for the volcano) or the Island View Bus – this bus only covers a portion of the island, so travelers interested in farther-flung sights, such as a shrine gate almost buried by an eruption in 1914, should rent a car or bicycle. Hungry? Thanks to its nutrient-rich volcanic soil, Sakurajima boasts record-sized daikon and delicious miniature mikan oranges. DAY 1 HOW TO GET THERE If you’re coming from Kirishima (Trip 2), of then our take itinerary), JR Kyushu's then take Limited the JR Express Kyushu Kirishima limited express from Kirishima from Kokuba Jingu Station to Kagoshima-Chuo Station Station (about (about 30 minutes). 30 minutes). Sakura- Sakurajima is a 15-minute is a 15-minute ferry ride ferry from ride Kagoshima from city. Kagoshima Those in city. for Cyclists a day of can cycling ride from can ride Kirishima from Kirishima – the 70km – course the 70km takes course you by takes an art you museum, by an art a museum, kurozu black a kurozu vinegar black factory, vinegar volcano factory, observa- volcano observation points and points more. and more. WHERE TO STAY Ferries run 24/7, so travelers can easily stay on mainland Kagoshima – but those looking to stay on the island itself should check out hotel Rainbow (www.qkamura-s.com/ sakurajima), which has a an hot attached spring. hot If you're spring. on If a budget, you're on peek a budget, the Sakurajima peek the Sakurajima Youth Hostel. Youth DAY 2 YAKUSHIMA ISLAND Studio Ghibli’s 1997 epic Princess Mononoke takes place in a forest so lush and out of this world we’d always assumed it came straight from director Hayao Miyazaki’s imagination. As it turns out, Mononoke’s forest had a real-life model – the island of Yakushima, south of Kagoshima. For fans of that film – or nature enthusiasts in general – Yakushima’s biggest draw will be Shiratani Unsuikyo, a relatively easily accessible nature park filled with hiking trails and footpaths. Look out for the forest’s yakusugi cedar trees, some of which are literally thousands of years old. Aside from its special brand of trees, Yakushima also has yaku monkeys and yaku deer, both of which are smaller than their mainland brethren, and can be regularly spotted while walking the forests. Said forests aren't Yakushima's only attraction, though: the island also features activities like snorkeling, scuba diving and paddleboarding. Whatever you do, pack a raincoat: Yakushima is famed for its high levels of precipitation. HOW TO GET THERE Getting to Yakushima is part of the adventure. The island has its own airport, but we recommend grabbing the high-speed jetfoil from Kagoshima (how often, after all, do you get to ride on something called a “jetfoil”?). The journey takes between two and three hours and costs ¥15,000 for a round-trip. WHERE TO STAY Yakushima features a number of hotels, guesthouses and rentable cottages, many of which are near the jetfoil port. Blow all your money just getting here? Try out one of the island's six mountain huts, which are entirely free, as long as you arrive early enough to snag a spot. 20 | OCTOBER 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER
[ PROMOTION ] DAY 1 Trip 4: FOR HISTORY BUFFS Kumamoto, Saga, Nagasaki Prefectures KUMAMOTO CASTLE Although you’ll be missing out on actually seeing its impressive facade, which is covered in scaffolding as they rebuild after the 2016 Kumamoto earthquakes, now is an enlightening time to visit Kumamoto Castle. It’s one of the few places in Japan that you can currently examine the extensive damage and restoration efforts necessary after an earthquake hits such a historically important structure. Built in 1607, the castle is scheduled to reopen to the public in early 2019, but the entire recovery process is expected to take two decades, mainly because consideration must be taken to maintain the traditional structure – for example, every stone that fell from the massive walls during the earthquake must be put back into its original position. When we visited, we were entranced by the watchtower alone, which stands tall and proud and largely intact. We were also astounded by one huge stone on display, which was discovered after the earthquake and features an ancient stone carving of a Bodhisattva figure. DAY 2 SAGA'S YOSHINOGARI HISTORICAL PARK There’s plenty to do and see in Saga Prefecture (see page 22), but for some fascinating insight into one of Japan’s oldest periods, we recommend visiting Yoshinogari Historical Park (www.yoshinogari.jp/en). This archeological site features ancient ruins of a king’s village dating back to the Yayoi period (300BCE-300ACE), with reconstructed huts showing how people lived and the clothes they wore. Aside from simply trying to imagine what it must have been like to live in that era, the most intriguing part of our visit was inspecting the excavated burial jars and the various artifacts that were found inside them such as bronze swords and glass jewelry. HOW TO GET THERE If you stayed at Satsuki Besso ryokan as recommended for Day 1, then take the Kyushu Shinkansen from Shin-Tamana Station to Shin-Tosu Station (about 25 minutes). Change to the JR Nagasaki Line and travel for 10 minutes to Yoshinogari-Koen Station. WHERE TO STAY End your day in Saga’s famous Ureshino onsen town. We stayed at Warakuen (www.warakuen.co.jp/english. html), which has a unique "tea hot spring." To get here, take the JR Kyushu Nagasaki Line from Yoshinogari-Koen Station to Hizen-Kashima Station, and then a short taxi ride. NAGASAKI ATOMIC BOMB MUSEUM & GLOVER GARDEN The Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum is a sobering start to the day, but it’s also thoroughly educational and an important reminder of the horror and devastation endured by the city and its people. For a completely different side to Nagasaki’s history, hop on the city tram to Glover Garden, where you can see the house built by Thomas Blake in 1863. Originally from Scotland, Glover contributed to the modernization of Japan through shipbuilding, coal mining and the tea trade. Those who’ve recently watched Martin Scorcese’s film Silence might be interested in reading about the “hidden Christian sites” in the region, one of which, Oura Cathedral, is just down the road from Glover’s home. Also, don’t leave without chowing down on Nagasaki’s popular champon noodles. DAY 3 HOW TO GET THERE You can fly from Tokyo to Kumamoto in about two hours, but if you’re traveling from Kagoshima (following on from Trip 3), then take the Kyushu Shinkansen from Kagoshima-Chuo Station to Kumamoto Station (about one hour). WHERE TO STAY Since Day 2 of our History Buff trip starts with a relatively long journey, we’d recommend getting part of the train ride under your belt by staying at Satsuki Besso ryokan, which is about 30 minutes out of the city towards Saga Prefecture. Take the Kyushu Shinkansen from Kumamoto Station to Shin-Tamana Station, and then walk for 25 minutes or hop in a taxi. HOW TO GET THERE If you’re coming from Ureshino, take JR Kyushu's Limited Express Kamome train from Hizen-Kashima Station to Nagasaki Station, and then navigate your way around the city on the adorable tramway, founded in 1915. WHERE TO STAY Huis Ten Bosch theme park is modeled on what the Netherlands looked like in the Middle Ages. There are four hotels, with Henn-na Hotel being the world’s first hotel to feature robot staff. english.huistenbosch.co.jp TOKYO WEEKENDER | OCTOBER 2017 | 21
Page 1: Japan’s number one English langua
Page 4 and 5: OCTOBER 2017 Publisher President Ex
Page 6 and 7: Where to find TOKYO WEEKENDER MAGAZ
Page 8 and 9: AREA GUIDE Words by Paul McInnes. P
Page 10 and 11: STYLE ALEXANDER WANG BAG Cross-body
Page 12 and 13: [ PROMOTION ] TRENDS EXPLORE JAPANE
Page 14 and 15: [ PROMOTION ] IMADEYA GINZA Founded
Page 16 and 17: Looking for a great place to eat, s
Page 18 and 19: [ PROMOTION ] FIND YOUR Trip 1: FOR
Page 22 and 23: [ PROMOTION ] 6 WAYS TO ENJOY FALL
Page 24 and 25: A DAY IN THE LIFE OF A GEISHA Inter
Page 26 and 27: Not quite yet, but they are filling
Page 28 and 29: Words by Alec Jordan On the eve of
Page 30 and 31: The Future of Japanese Football Mee
Page 32 and 33: Dream Powder Words by Alec Jordan B
Page 34 and 35: ART & THEATER “CREATION IS A SOLI
Page 36 and 37: 1 3 2 4 7 8 5 6 AGENDA: THE WEEKEND
Page 38 and 39: [ PROMOTION ] Six new cities, towns
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Page 42 and 43: ONLY THE BEST WILL DO HOW THE BRITI
Page 44 and 45: The Moon and Beyond First on the sc
Page 46 and 47: Society TOKYO’S LONGEST RUNNING S
Page 48 and 49: FORSYTH’S PERUVIAN NATIONAL DAY A
Page 50: [ PROMOTION ] Whether you’re just

Tokyo Weekender - October 2017

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