Tokyo Weekender - October 2017
A day in the life of a geisha. Find your perfect Kyushu. Plus Q&A with anime director Keiichi Hara, are robots taking our jobs?, Explore Japanese cuisine at GINZA SIX, and Tsukuda guide
A day in the life of a geisha. Find your perfect Kyushu. Plus Q&A with anime director Keiichi Hara, are robots taking our jobs?, Explore Japanese cuisine at GINZA SIX, and Tsukuda guide
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Japan’s number one English language magazine<br />
A DAY IN<br />
THE LIFE OF<br />
A GEISHA<br />
"It is difficult to have a<br />
truly beautiful life, but<br />
this comes close to it"<br />
FIND YOUR<br />
PERFECT<br />
KYUSHU<br />
Four Trips for<br />
Four Types<br />
PLUS: Q&A with Anime Director Keiichi Hara, Are Robots Taking Our Jobs?, Explore Japanese Cuisine at GINZA SIX, and Tsukuda Guide
Miss Hokusai ©2014-2015 Hinako Sugiura, MS.HS / Sarusuberi Film Partners<br />
28<br />
18 24<br />
26<br />
radar<br />
THIS MONTH’S HEAD TURNERS<br />
8 AREA GUIDE: TSUKUDA<br />
If you don't have time for a proper getaway,<br />
then Tsukuda is ideal as an inner-city escape.<br />
10 STYLE: LEGENDS OF THE FALL<br />
Timeless items for a versatile autumn<br />
wardrobe.<br />
12 TRENDS: EXPLORE JAPANESE<br />
CUISINE AT GINZA SIX<br />
To sample a variety of Japanese dishes<br />
in one place, look no further.<br />
in-depth<br />
COFFEE-BREAK READS<br />
18 FIND YOUR PERFECT KYUSHU<br />
Four trips for four types.<br />
24 A DAY IN THE LIFE OF A GEISHA<br />
We speak with Sayuki, Japan's first foreign<br />
geisha, to find out about her daily life.<br />
26 ARE THE ROBOTS TAKING<br />
OUR JOBS?<br />
Not quite yet, but they are filling in a few<br />
gaps from hotel staff to Buddhist monks.<br />
28 AN INDEPENDENT STREAK<br />
On the eve of the first major retrospective<br />
of his work at this month’s TIFF, anime<br />
director Keiichi Hara talks about why he decided<br />
to set out on his own as a filmmaker.<br />
30 THE FUTURE OF JAPANESE FOOTBALL<br />
Meet the man who believes he can change<br />
the game.<br />
32 DREAM POWDER<br />
Material Matcha Uji is looking to breathe life<br />
into the country's matcha industry.<br />
guide<br />
CULTURE ROUNDUP<br />
34 ART & THEATER<br />
Possibly the most exciting news in <strong>Tokyo</strong> art<br />
circles this month is the opening of the Yayoi<br />
Kusama Museum: get ready to immerse<br />
yourself in polka dots.<br />
40 AGENDA<br />
What's on for Halloween, plus a grand tea<br />
ceremony, the <strong>Tokyo</strong> Ramen Show, and four<br />
reasons to visit Tabisuru Shintora Market's<br />
autumn edition.<br />
38 AUTUMN EDUCATION SPECIAL<br />
Catch up on the latest news and views from<br />
The British School in <strong>Tokyo</strong>, Aoba-Japan<br />
Extension, and more.<br />
42 SOCIETY<br />
<strong>Tokyo</strong>'s longest-running social column.<br />
OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong>
OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong><br />
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Vivian Morelli<br />
Bill Hersey<br />
Bunny Bissoux<br />
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Takaaki Murai<br />
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Marketing Director<br />
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Published by ENGAWA Co., Ltd.<br />
4 | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER
@mizrama: Alec, are you worried about robots taking<br />
your job [page 26]?<br />
@bapawn: Fortunately, I think that coming up with<br />
witty copy and changing diapers is still at least a<br />
decade away. But I think the rise of robots in different<br />
occupations has the potential to really change the future<br />
“works.” Do you think there’s any kind of job that will<br />
be beyond the capabilities of robots in the future?<br />
@mizrama: That’s difficult to say without properly<br />
understanding the technology. But I did hear that the<br />
robot staff at Henn-na Hotel aren’t able to make up beds<br />
or answer certain questions. So it seems the technology<br />
is still relatively limited, at least in terms of completely<br />
replacing humans. I wonder if they’ll make robot geisha<br />
one day?<br />
@bapawn: Well, I’ve seen Pepper and Asimo put on<br />
some impressive moves, but I don’t think they’ll be able<br />
to rival the aesthetic heights that geisha seem able to<br />
ascend to. And that’s a good thing.<br />
@bapawn: Yes, Keiichi Hara was an interesting<br />
character to interview [page 30]. For a director whose<br />
films often soar into flights of fancy, he was very<br />
serious and thoughtful. I’m glad he’ll be getting some<br />
recognition at this year’s <strong>Tokyo</strong> International Film<br />
Festival.<br />
@mizrama: Getting back to robots … I wonder if<br />
humanoids will ever feel the need to take vacations and<br />
travel? I just spent three days in Kyushu to research this<br />
month’s special feature about the island [page 18], and<br />
now I’m wondering if at some point we’ll be sending<br />
robots on press trips!<br />
@bapawn: Robot or not, I think they’ll be clamoring<br />
to head down to Kyushu. There’s just something about<br />
that part of Japan; everything seems to move a bit more<br />
slowly.<br />
@mizrama: Absolutely. Even though we packed in a<br />
huge amount of activities, it never felt rushed. Both the<br />
food and air somehow seem fresher.<br />
@mizrama: I’m sure Sayuki, the geisha we interviewed<br />
this month, would agree [page 24]. Presumably,<br />
creatives like the anime director you interviewed<br />
would feel the same.<br />
@bapawn: Hmm. Maybe there’s a gap in the market for<br />
a Kyushu <strong>Weekender</strong>...<br />
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TOKYO WEEKENDER | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | 5
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6 | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER
WHAT’S ON OUR RADAR THIS MONTH...<br />
The old-school neighborhood of Tsukuda is our new favorite inner-city getaway, while<br />
upmarket department store Ginza Six is titillating our tastebuds with its Japanese cuisine.<br />
TOKYO WEEKENDER | | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | 7
AREA GUIDE<br />
Words by Paul McInnes. Photographs by Stephan Jarvis<br />
If you don’t have time to escape the city to (overrated)<br />
spots such as Enoshima, then Tsukuda is ideal as a<br />
getaway within the metropolis<br />
AN INNER-CITY ESCAPE<br />
Tsukuda isn’t exactly a physical place. It’s<br />
more of an idea, a utopia, an idyll. Separated,<br />
by means of a simple road, from neighboring<br />
Tsukishima – home of the much-loved<br />
monjayaki – Tsukuda is like no other place in<br />
<strong>Tokyo</strong>. Tranquil, relaxed and on the Sumida<br />
River, the tiny island ebbs and flows along<br />
with the nearby water. Five minutes from<br />
Tsukiji and Ginza, which are literally across<br />
the water and a stone’s throw away from<br />
places like Hatchobori and Monzen-<br />
Nakacho, it’s a magical hideaway with<br />
pockets of enchantment.<br />
Tsukuda was originally a natural sandbank<br />
at the mouth of the river. The land was<br />
built upon and expanded, in early Edo times,<br />
by fishermen from Osaka who were invited<br />
to the area by legendary shogun Tokugawa<br />
Ieyasu. The area played host to a famous<br />
ferry service to and from the mainland and<br />
for people coming to pray at the island’s<br />
Sumiyoshi Shrine. The ferry service was<br />
discontinued in 1964 – the year of the first<br />
<strong>Tokyo</strong> Olympics, as Tsukuda Bridge was<br />
finally completed.<br />
TRADITIONAL TASTES<br />
Tsukuda is the birthplace of tsukudani – a<br />
salty, sweet preserve of ingredients such as<br />
fish, shrimp, shellfish and seaweed which<br />
have been simmered in soy sauce, mirin,<br />
sugar, and salt. It’s often accompanied by<br />
rice. There are still a few tsukudani shops<br />
in the area such as oldest, Tenyasu, and<br />
Tsukuda-gen Tanakaya, which both date<br />
back to the early 19th century. There is also<br />
Yamamoto Shouten, a cute, traditional ice<br />
cream and sweet shop as well as a general<br />
store which sells alcoholic and non-alcoholic<br />
treats. Many amateur fisherman in the area,<br />
as well as some domestic tourists, seem to<br />
love nothing more than a strong chu-hi or<br />
beer to accompany them as the scorching<br />
summer heat meets the early evening sunset.<br />
8 | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER
LADA GAGA HAS SHOPPED HERE<br />
Immediately after crossing the iridescent Tsukuda<br />
Kobashi bridge, visitors are usually confronted by a small<br />
group of people lined up outside Hideyasu Nakajima’s<br />
small, ramshackle store of traditional monozukuri<br />
(artisanship). In this case the monozukuri on display is<br />
Nakajima’s handcrafted and legendary eight-sided chopsticks<br />
and eye-wateringly expensive lacquerware. Lady<br />
Gaga and several other celebs are big fans of this place<br />
and the shokunin (artisan) has been featured in publications<br />
such as GQ and a multitude of respected guidebooks.<br />
One of the charming idiosyncrasies of Tsukuda is the fact<br />
that sometimes the stores there are unmanned. The owners<br />
naturally trust that customers will always do the right<br />
thing and leave payment for anything bought. It’s a legacy<br />
from Japan’s rural and agricultural past and something<br />
not usually associated with the hustle and bustle of 21st<br />
century life in an international city.<br />
SEEK AND YOU SHALL FIND…<br />
In addition to some beautiful and authentic nagaya (wooden<br />
houses), the tiny island has some gems hidden away in its<br />
nooks and crannies. Tucked down a tiny alleyway between<br />
two rows of houses is the Buddhist Tsukuda Tenzai Jizoson,<br />
which is the “Guardian Deity of Children” according to a<br />
posted sign. It’s a tiny dimly lit room with a huge old tree<br />
standing in the middle of it. As you walk down this atmospheric<br />
passageway you are met by the compact Namiyoke<br />
Inari Jinja – devoted to the protection of local fishermen.<br />
Further across the island is Sumiyoshi Shrine, the architectural<br />
highlight of any visit here. The shrine, established in<br />
the 1600s, stands proud across from Tsukuda Park, which<br />
is a few minutes from the calming Sumida riverbank, and<br />
under the apartment buildings that encircle the island.<br />
TOKYO WEEKENDER | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | 9
STYLE<br />
ALEXANDER WANG BAG<br />
Cross-body bags are the ideal accessory for daily wear,<br />
as you don't need to put a heavy load on one shoulder.<br />
This version from Alexander Wang is big enough to<br />
carry your everyday necessities but small enough to<br />
take to a cocktail party. Made from burgundy quilted<br />
textured leather, this bag is adorned with metal studs<br />
and is fitted with card slots, bill compartments and a<br />
coin pouch so you can just throw everything in.<br />
alexanderwang.com<br />
TIMELESS ITEMS FOR A<br />
VERSATILE AUTUMN<br />
WARDROBE<br />
Compiled by Vivian Morelli<br />
IRO LEATHER SKIRT<br />
We can’t get enough of French brand<br />
IRO, which perfectly combines the cool<br />
effortlessness of street wear with a<br />
quintessential Parisian spirit. This leather<br />
skirt sums up the label’s style pretty well:<br />
edgy yet classic enough that you’ll wear<br />
it for several seasons. You might feel<br />
hesitant about adding a leather skirt to<br />
your wardrobe, but paired with the right<br />
top and accessories, it’s a stylish and<br />
timeless item. We’ll wear ours paired<br />
with a chunky knit jumper, ankle boots<br />
and just a bit of attitude.<br />
iroparis.com
DRIES VAN NOTEN BOOTS<br />
Famed as one of the original Antwerp Six, Dries van Noten is known<br />
for his timeless pieces and avant-garde twist. Each one of his pieces<br />
presents fine details that fashion lovers can truly appreciate, and this<br />
pair of boots is no exception. Crafted in Italy from smooth leather,<br />
these boots are rugged yet stylish. They come with long laces that can<br />
be wrapped around the ankles and give a little bit of a punk rock vibe<br />
while remaining elegant. Bonus: they’ll match pretty much everything<br />
you already own. driesvannoten.com<br />
MONCLER GAMME<br />
BLEU TROUSERS<br />
The Moncler Gamme Bleu Autumn/Winter<br />
<strong>2017</strong> collection was designed by none other<br />
than Thom Browne, so you can expect<br />
tailored pieces with a bit of quirkiness.<br />
Made in Italy from thick navy wool, these<br />
slim-cut trousers will keep you warm all<br />
through winter, just like every other piece<br />
by Moncler. They feature four pockets and<br />
an adjustable tab at the back to get your<br />
preferred fit. This autumn, wear them<br />
rolled up and style them with chunky boots,<br />
a simple T-shirt and a light scarf.<br />
moncler.com<br />
RAG & BONE<br />
DENIM JACKET<br />
Denim jackets have never gone out of style,<br />
and we predict they never will either. You<br />
can also wear them year-round, whether<br />
it’s on a chilly late summer evening or<br />
in winter under your parka. If you don’t<br />
already own one, now is the time to invest,<br />
and this Rag & Bone number will do the<br />
trick. We like the light wash, the fitted<br />
cut and the high-quality denim, which is<br />
sourced from Japan’s Kaihara mill, best<br />
known for its indigo dyeing techniques.<br />
rag-bone.com<br />
STELLA MCCARTNEY<br />
BLAZER<br />
This autumn, if you only choose one staple<br />
item to add to your wardrobe, a classic (and<br />
versatile) blazer should be it. Forget about<br />
boxy, heavily shoulder-padded numbers.<br />
Instead, go for a fitted and structured<br />
blazer – throw it over a casual white tee, or<br />
wear it over a blouse for a more dressed-up<br />
look. This checked wool blazer from British<br />
designer Stella McCartney ticks all the boxes<br />
and it’s a piece you will keep forever. Wear<br />
it with the matching trousers, or with jeans<br />
and a pair of heels. stellamccartney.com
[ PROMOTION ]<br />
TRENDS<br />
EXPLORE<br />
JAPANESE<br />
CUISINE AT<br />
GINZA SIX<br />
When any local or visitor<br />
to <strong>Tokyo</strong> is asked<br />
what they love most<br />
about the city, more<br />
often than not the cuisine makes it<br />
to the top of the list. Plenty of tourists<br />
come here purely for the food,<br />
and chefs around the globe rave<br />
about the quality of the ingredients.<br />
But when time is short, how can you<br />
manage to try out a wide variety<br />
of Japanese cuisine? New luxury<br />
department store GINZA SIX, which<br />
opened its doors in April, has solved<br />
this dilemma by launching an array<br />
of restaurants and shops that pretty<br />
much cover all bases. From yakiniku<br />
and tempura to tea cocktails and<br />
matcha parfaits, the shopping center<br />
is a paradise for foodies. To help<br />
you navigate your way around,<br />
we've selected our top 10 restaurants<br />
serving local dishes. And just in case<br />
you're craving a bottle of red from<br />
Bordeaux or a sweet pie from L.A.,<br />
we've also rounded up five treats for<br />
those with more cosmopolitan tastes.<br />
GINZA GRAND PREMIUM FOOD HALL<br />
To sample a variety of Japanese dishes in one place, head to the Ginza Grand Premium Food Hall on the<br />
6th floor. Counter-seating shops with noren curtains serve cuisine from selected restaraunts and shops<br />
from all over Japan. There are 10 eateries in total, including one tea salon known for its top quality tea.<br />
HOKKAIDO UEDAGUMI<br />
While you can find exceptionally fresh fish<br />
pretty much anywhere in Japan, Hokkaido is<br />
particularly known for its high quality seafood.<br />
It's also known for a dish called kaisendon, a<br />
seafood bowl that includes rice topped with<br />
sashimi and other ingredients. You can sample<br />
several varieties of this dish at Uedagumi,<br />
which only serves fish from Shibetsu, a city in<br />
Hokkaido that's known for its excellent salmon,<br />
scallops, trout and shellfish. You're in good hands<br />
with regards to the sushi chef too – Katsuharu<br />
Takano earned his stripes at Ginza Kyubey, often<br />
considered one of <strong>Tokyo</strong>'s top sushi restaurants.<br />
TSUKIJI BAR WITH UORIKI<br />
If you choose just one of the 10 eateries<br />
at Ginza Grand Premium Food<br />
Hall, we recommend Tsukiji Bar with<br />
Uoriki, where you can enjoy a classic<br />
ceviche created by renowned pioneer<br />
of molecular gastronomy Chikara<br />
Yamada. The menu is designed to be<br />
enjoyed with a glass of champagne.<br />
Also, on the last Friday of every<br />
month from 3pm to 9pm, they<br />
host a Japanese sake-tasting event<br />
where you can sample renowned<br />
sake brands from around the<br />
country.<br />
12 | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER
[ PROMOTION ]<br />
MIXOLOGY SALON<br />
Founded by master mixologist Shuzo Nagumo,<br />
Mixology Salon's speciality is the "teatail":<br />
cocktails made with high quality Japanese<br />
green tea leaves. First-timers should try the<br />
Gyokuro Cocktail Course, which includes<br />
three infusions of gyokuro (the highest quality<br />
green tea in Japan) to allow you to experience<br />
different flavor strengths. At the end, you get<br />
to eat the remaining tea leaves with smoked<br />
oyster soy sauce, and you'll also be treated<br />
to homemade gyokuro vodka. Those who're<br />
looking for an autumn seasonal offering<br />
should go for the Pear and Taiwan Oolong<br />
Cocktail.<br />
THE GRAND GINZA<br />
Occupying 1,500m² on the top floor<br />
of GINZA SIX, this luxury space<br />
features a lounge, restaurant, bar,<br />
and teahouse all designed to stimulate<br />
the six senses and let visitors<br />
enjoy a sensual dining experience.<br />
Be sure to stop by THE GRAND<br />
VIP, which boasts extraordinarily<br />
beautiful Japanese décor with a<br />
contemporary touch – the folding<br />
screen, for example, is handpainted<br />
by kimono designer Jotaro Saito<br />
– and an exquisite tea ceremony<br />
room (reservations required via<br />
www.grandginza.com/vip).<br />
TEMPURA YAMANOUE GINZA<br />
TEPPANYAKI 10 GINZA<br />
One of the most-loved cuisines in<br />
Japan, teppanyaki refers to food that is<br />
cooked on an iron griddle. If you're in<br />
the mood for an extravagant meal, go<br />
for the lunch course at Teppanyaki 10<br />
Ginza and enjoy specialties such as sea<br />
urchin, wagyu steak, and abalone. For<br />
autumn <strong>2017</strong>, they're serving a limitededition<br />
champagne cocktail featuring<br />
ingredients such as orange, cinnamon<br />
and cherry.<br />
Even if this is your first time in Japan, you've most<br />
likely already heard of, and tasted, tempura. But<br />
don't underestimate the ability of Japanese chefs to<br />
make everything taste – and look – better. At Tempura<br />
Yamanoue Ginza, the Ai dinner course highlights the<br />
senses of each season and the richness of Japanese<br />
ingredients. The tempura batter is silky and light,<br />
and you'll be treated to a performance by culinary<br />
artisans to demonstrate the deep-frying process.<br />
To top off the experience, your meal is served in<br />
custom-made traditional Japanese lacquerware.<br />
Private dining rooms are available.<br />
GINZA SIX<br />
Address: 6-10-1 Ginza, Chuo-ku<br />
Web: https://ginza6.tokyo<br />
Restaurant opening hours: 11am-11:30pm<br />
Store opening hours: 10:30am-8:30pm<br />
(Subject to change for certain restaurants and stores)<br />
TOKYO WEEKENDER | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | 13
[ PROMOTION ]<br />
IMADEYA GINZA<br />
Founded in 1962, Imadeya<br />
Ginza stocks around 1,000<br />
varieties of local sake,<br />
shochu and wine. Believing<br />
that "you can tell a story<br />
with each bottle of liquor,"<br />
Imadeya works closely with<br />
artisans around Japan to<br />
learn about their sophisticated<br />
brewing techniques and<br />
understand the back stories<br />
of each brand. If you're<br />
looking for a souvenir or<br />
gift, consider the Imadeya<br />
original Ryujo Sherry, a<br />
blend of four different rice<br />
shochu aged for 11 years in a<br />
sherry cask.<br />
YAKINIKU SANSUI<br />
Imagine an indoor barbecue, with<br />
beef and pork sliced into bite-sized<br />
pieces, cooked on a miniature<br />
grill that sits in the center of your<br />
dinner table, and eaten with<br />
chopsticks. This is yakiniku: a very<br />
civilized yet no less entertaining<br />
version of the Western barbecue.<br />
At Yakiniku Sansui, the experience<br />
is taken to the next level with<br />
a selection of only the best<br />
quality kuroge wagyu, which is<br />
considered Japan's highest grade<br />
of beef. It's fatty and succulent<br />
and full of flavor. The chef here<br />
carefully selects the best parts of<br />
the meat each day, and insists that<br />
it is served without cold storage so<br />
as to preserve its fine taste.<br />
NAKAMURA TOKICHI<br />
Originally founded in 1854, Nakamura Tokichi<br />
uses a selection of precious Japanese teas to<br />
develop unique desserts. Definitely try their<br />
custom-made matcha parfait which lets you<br />
choose different ingredients such as kuri<br />
(Japanese chestnuts), raspberries, and arare<br />
(roasted rice crackers). From <strong>October</strong> 1 to<br />
November 30, you can enjoy a special autumn<br />
afternoon tea set including a variety of cakes and<br />
two types of tea.<br />
GINZA SENNENKOUJIYA<br />
If you can't make it all the way to Japan's Niigata Prefecture<br />
to visit the Hakkaisan sake brewery, you'll be pleased<br />
to know you can browse almost the entire Hakkaisan<br />
lineup right here at Ginza Sennenkoujiya. For a truly<br />
unique sake, we suggest picking up a bottle of snow-aged<br />
Junmai Ginjo, which is matured for three years in a store<br />
room that's naturally chilled by an abundance of snow.<br />
The snow acts as a refrigerator, keeping the temperature<br />
at three degrees Celsius.<br />
14 | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER
[ PROMOTION ]<br />
5 TREATS<br />
FOR GLOBAL<br />
FOODIE FANS<br />
THE PIE HOLE LOS ANGELES<br />
First opened in Los Angeles in 2011,<br />
The Pie Hole is a family-run business<br />
known for their unique sweet pies.<br />
Their branch in GINZA SIX sells all the<br />
firm favorites from L.A. along with a<br />
few extra Japanese flavors. For a taste<br />
of everything, the Sweet Assort Box is<br />
ideal as it's "a pie made up of different<br />
pies" (think apple crumble, matcha,<br />
pecan pie and more). For fall, try their<br />
Chestnut Mont Blanc (until <strong>October</strong> 31).<br />
WINE SHOP ENOTECA<br />
Incorporating a wine shop and cellar, a<br />
café and bar, and an art corner, Enoteca<br />
caters to the wine connoisseur's every<br />
need. You'll find more than 1,600 varieties<br />
on offer, from easy drinking daily wines<br />
to renowned premium brands. One of<br />
their newest products is Rose Del Borro<br />
2016, produced by Il Borro winery, which<br />
is based in Tuscany, Italy, and owned by<br />
fashion designer Salvatore Ferragamo. If<br />
you have time to linger longer, Enoteca sells<br />
wine by the glass for just ¥500 each, giving<br />
you the chance to sample before you buy<br />
(be sure to try one of their wine cocktails).<br />
JASMINE WASHINKANSAI<br />
The philosophy of this restaurant<br />
is reflected in the store name, as<br />
washinkansai means "Chinese cooking with<br />
a Japanese spirit." Essentially, they seek<br />
to merge traditional Chinese cuisine with<br />
the Japanese sensibility of wa (harmony).<br />
The speciality is their mouth-watering<br />
chicken dish that's flavored with 15 spices,<br />
and served in a bowl of original black<br />
vinegar and chili oil sauce. Also highly<br />
recommended is the spicy Sichuan-style<br />
sukiyaki (hot pot) dish featuring roast beef,<br />
negi mochi (sticky rice cake with spring<br />
onions), edible chrysanthemums, and tofu.<br />
SALT GRILL & TAPAS BAR<br />
BY LUKE MANGAN<br />
This is the first grill and tapas concept<br />
restaurant by Australian star chef Luke<br />
Mangan, who now runs a total of 21<br />
restaurants around the world. Settle<br />
into the modern rustic atmosphere and<br />
prepare to relish premium-grade Aussie<br />
beef, which you'll find on the a la carte<br />
menu in the main dining room. For a<br />
more casual affair, relax in the bar and<br />
lounge area while tucking into tapas<br />
paired with handcrafted cocktails – we<br />
love their quirky names such as Flying<br />
Kangaroo and Office Romance.<br />
IL CARDINALE<br />
Love Italian food? Il Cardinale is<br />
afiliated with the long-standing<br />
Ristorante Sabatini di Firenze, which<br />
is legendary in Florence, Italy, so you<br />
know you'll be getting the real deal<br />
here. Focusing on genuine Italian<br />
cooking and traditional Tuscan cuisine,<br />
Il Cardinale serves a superb Bistecca<br />
alla Fiorentina. The thick slab of T-bone<br />
steak is roasted at a high temperature<br />
so it's perfectly charred on the outside<br />
but still soft and succulent on the<br />
inside. For a fall treat, they'll be serving<br />
a special grilled lamb and porcini<br />
mushroom dish, designed to be enjoyed<br />
by two people (available from <strong>October</strong>).<br />
TOKYO WEEKENDER | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | 15
Looking for a great place to eat, shop, sleep or play in <strong>Tokyo</strong>? Welcome to <strong>Weekender</strong>'s<br />
roundup of recommended restaurants, hotels, stores, salons and more. Here, we share<br />
this month's editor's picks, but for the full lineup – as well as reader discounts and<br />
special offers – simply head to www.tokyoweekender.com/the-concierge<br />
Elana Jade Club 360<br />
In need of some pampering? Elana Jade offers a range of deluxe<br />
beauty treatments that will have you looking beautiful from<br />
head to toe. All products used in our organic skincare lines are<br />
delivered by internationally trained and experienced therapists.<br />
Special offer: Enjoy our 60-minute Organic Conditioning Facial<br />
for only ¥10,000 (normal price ¥13,000), valid until <strong>October</strong> 31.<br />
Club 360 is <strong>Tokyo</strong>’s premier fitness and rehabilitation<br />
center, offering personal training, physiotherapy, sports<br />
massage, exercise classes, boxing and various classes for<br />
children. Whilst getting in shape, make sure you recover<br />
with a sports massage from one of Club 360’s highly qualified therapists.<br />
Special offer: Mention <strong>Tokyo</strong> <strong>Weekender</strong> and receive your<br />
first personal training session for just ¥5,400.<br />
HEALTH, BEAUTY & FITNESS | EDITORS CHOICE HOTELS ABOUT TOWN | EDITORS | EDITORS CHOICE CHOICE<br />
www.elanajade.com<br />
03-6453-9319<br />
4F NS Azabu Juban Building, 3-6-2 Azabu Juban, Minato-ku<br />
www.club360.jp<br />
03-6434-9667<br />
B1 Cma3 Building, 3-1-35 Motoazabu, Minato-ku<br />
Owl Café Search<br />
Japan is famed for its wide<br />
variety of animal cafés, with<br />
owl cafés being one of the<br />
latest to join the lineup. This<br />
new website provides all the infor-<br />
HEALTH, BEAUTY & FITNESS | EDITORS CHOICE<br />
mation you need on where to find<br />
one of these feathery creatures to pet<br />
while sipping on a cuppa. Launching<br />
their English site this month, Owl<br />
Café Search lets you search by area,<br />
and includes details such as price,<br />
opening hours, and contact info for<br />
each café listed.<br />
www.owlcafe-search.com<br />
16 | SEPTEMBER OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO | TOKYO WEEKENDER
HOW THE LIGHT GETS IN<br />
There are many ways to feed one's soul: this month, we offer an escape to calm Kyushu,<br />
inspiration from the woman who found her niche as Japan's first foreign geisha, and insight<br />
into how anime director Keiichi Hara hopes his art will help people face their problems.<br />
TOKYO WEEKENDER | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | 17
[ PROMOTION ]<br />
FIND YOUR<br />
Trip 1:<br />
FOR CITY FOODIES & ONSEN LOVERS<br />
Fukuoka and Oita Prefectures<br />
PERFECT<br />
KYUSHU<br />
Four trips, four types – pick your<br />
favorite or combine them all into<br />
one big Kyushu adventure<br />
Words by Annemarie Luck & Matt Schley<br />
HOW TO GET THERE Flights from <strong>Tokyo</strong> take<br />
approximately two hours, while the Tokaido or<br />
Sanyo Shinkansen can get you from <strong>Tokyo</strong> to<br />
Hakata Station in about five hours.<br />
WHERE TO STAY Urbanites will love the<br />
modern rooms at First Cabin Hakata. Think of it<br />
as a luxury capsule hotel, and book the Premium<br />
Class Cabin for a comfy double bed and wooden<br />
finishings. www.first-cabin.jp<br />
FUKUOKA’S NIGHTLIFE AND RAMEN<br />
Kyushu’s largest city, Fukuoka has skyscraper energy but is friendlier than <strong>Tokyo</strong> and<br />
offers escape in the form of green spaces and even beaches. It’s known for nightlife<br />
and ramen, but it also has plenty for shoppers, art lovers and culture hunters.<br />
Hipsters should head straight for the Daimyo district, where you’ll find vintage stores<br />
and streetside cafés. When we visited, we only had eyes for Hakata ramen – which<br />
is often cited as the best tonkotsu (pork bone broth) ramen in Japan – so we made a<br />
beeline for the city’s yatai (street-side food stalls) that come alive at night just next to<br />
the river in Nakasu. Packed with casual diners every evening, this is the ideal spot to<br />
chat to locals while slurping up noodles and sipping on sake or shochu. Also try the<br />
udon, which has its origins in Fukuoka, and motsu nabe if you're feeling adventurous<br />
(motsu means "innards") .<br />
DAY 1<br />
DAY 2<br />
OITA’S BEPPU ONSEN<br />
After a night on the town in Hakata,<br />
best thing for you is a day spent<br />
dipping in and out of onsen. Oita Prefecture<br />
is home to Beppu, the famous<br />
onsen town where the springs are so<br />
hot that the city itself looks like it’s<br />
perpetually steaming. There are eight<br />
onsen areas in the city, but the most<br />
exciting hot springs are grouped together<br />
in the Kannawa area under the<br />
name The 7 Hells of Beppu. These are<br />
for viewing, not soaking, and include<br />
the cobalt-blue Umi-jigoku (sea hell)<br />
and the red clay-colored Chi-no-ikejigoku<br />
(blood pond hell). To see them<br />
all, take the Beppu Jigoku Meguri (Hell<br />
Tour) from Beppu Station (¥3,650, 2.5<br />
hours). For bathing, visit Takegawara<br />
Onsen, which opened in 1879 and is<br />
the oldest onsen in Beppu. Also be<br />
sure to try a beach sand bath at Beppu<br />
Kaihin Suna-yu, which is a five-minute<br />
walk from Beppu Daigaku Station.<br />
HOW<br />
TO GET<br />
THERE<br />
From Hakata<br />
to Beppu<br />
Station, it<br />
takes approximately 2 hours on JR<br />
Kyushu’s Limited Express Sonic.<br />
WHERE TO STAY Balance out<br />
your Fukuoka capsule confinement<br />
with a luxurious stay at<br />
Beppu Sennari Ryokan.<br />
beppu-sennari.com
DAY 1<br />
[ PROMOTION ]<br />
Trip 2:<br />
FOR FANTASY FANS & NATURE ENTHUSIASTS<br />
Miyazaki Prefecture<br />
TAKACHIHO GORGE, AOSHIMA BEACH & UDO SHRINE<br />
Miyazaki’s nature and spiritual spots bowled us over. To recreate our pilgrimage, make your<br />
first destination Takachiho, home to shrines related to sun goddess Amaterasu, and Takachiho<br />
Gorge, a chasm created by the flow of a river through volcanic rock. Either walk a trail<br />
that runs alongside the gorge or rent a boat and row down it. Next, take a bus to Aoshima.<br />
No, this isn’t the Aoshima full of cats – that’s the one in Ehime – but this Aoshima features<br />
a beach, botanic gardens, and a shrine set under a jungle canopy. Swing by Aoshima Beach<br />
Park (open spring through summer), a hip pop-up eatery collective, but don’t forget the<br />
mom-and-pop food stands (try the nikumakionigiri, rice balls wrapped in meat). Finally, take<br />
a bus to Udo Shrine. A 20-minute walk from the closest bus stop, Udo is inside a cave that faces<br />
the ocean, and will make you feel like you’ve reached the shrine at the end of the world.<br />
HOW TO GET THERE<br />
Takachiho is located between<br />
Oita, Miyazaki and Kumamoto,<br />
and can be reached via bus<br />
from each city. Aoshima and<br />
Udo lie just south of Miyazaki;<br />
both can be reached on the<br />
same bus line, which runs<br />
about once per hour.<br />
WHERE TO STAY To visit<br />
all three, make your base<br />
Miyazaki. If beach-going is<br />
your main goal, there are<br />
several hotel and guesthouse<br />
options right in Aoshima.<br />
GETTING<br />
TO AND<br />
AROUND<br />
KYUSHU<br />
The third<br />
biggest island<br />
of Japan,<br />
Kyushu<br />
has seven<br />
prefectures.<br />
Domestic flights from <strong>Tokyo</strong>’s Narita or<br />
Haneda airports take about two hours<br />
to any of Kyushu’s airports, but it’s also<br />
possible to travel by Shinkansen. Within<br />
Kyushu, car rental is best if you’re planning<br />
to explore more remote areas, but<br />
for the four trips we’ve planned here,<br />
you’ll be able to get around mainly on<br />
the Kyushu Shinkansen and local trains.<br />
In fact, traveling on JR Kyushu<br />
trains is one of the highlights of visiting<br />
the island as the company has invested<br />
heavily in designing unique and luxurious<br />
trains, making the journey between<br />
prefectures a real pleasure. Aside from<br />
hopping on the Shinkansen, you might<br />
also want to take a look at some of<br />
the resort trains on offer, such as the<br />
Yufuin no Mori, which boasts a lounge<br />
with wooden interior, and the A-TRAIN,<br />
which features wood and stained glass<br />
décor. For more information about the<br />
JR Kyushu Rail Pass, and the different<br />
trains, visit www.jrkyushu.co.jp/english/.<br />
DAY 2<br />
KIRISHIMA<br />
The Kirishima mountain range is an<br />
important spot in Japanese folklore<br />
and great for hiking. The range<br />
includes active volcanoes and is<br />
said to be where Ninigi-no-Mikoto,<br />
grandson of goddess Amaterasu,<br />
descended to earth (though Miyazaki’s<br />
Takachiho makes the same claim).<br />
Regardless, Kirishima Shrine, devoted<br />
to Ninigi-no-Mikoto, is an impressive<br />
complex (be sure to try the hoko mochi<br />
cinnamon sweets). From the shrine,<br />
make your way to the Takachiho-gawara<br />
Visitor's Center, from where you<br />
can embark on one of several hikes.<br />
Kirishima is famous for its crater<br />
lakes, but volcanic activity means the<br />
trails are often off-limits, so check in<br />
with the Visitor's Center first. One of<br />
the safest bets is the hike to Mount<br />
Takachiho-no-mine, said to be the spot<br />
where Ninigi-no-Mikoto descended.<br />
HOW<br />
TO GET<br />
THERE<br />
Kirishima<br />
is roughly<br />
equidistant<br />
from Kagoshima and Miyazaki.<br />
From either city, jump on the dark<br />
grey JR Kyushu's Limited Express<br />
Kirishima train that looks like it<br />
was designed by Darth Vader and<br />
enjoy some incredible scenery.<br />
WHERE TO STAY Shinyu<br />
Onsen Ryokan (tel: 099-578-2255)<br />
for its milky-white, sulfur baths,<br />
or Kirishima Hotel (www.kirishima-hotel.jp)<br />
for a Western-style<br />
facility.<br />
TOKYO WEEKENDER | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | 19
[ PROMOTION ]<br />
Trip 3:<br />
FOR ADVENTURE SEEKERS<br />
Kagoshima Prefecture<br />
SAKURAJIMA VOLCANO<br />
As we stepped off the train at Kagoshima, it took us a moment to realize why there<br />
was a tinge of smoke in the air – then we remembered our destination, Sakurajima,<br />
is an active volcano. Erupting (harmlessly) hundreds of times a year, Sakurajima is<br />
one of Kyushu’s most unique destinations, with volcano-related attractions like a hot<br />
spring filled with dark, volcanic mineral-infused water. Skeptical? Give it a try at the<br />
free footbaths, where you can take in a view of the city and volcano across the bay.<br />
To get closer to said volcano, hop on a local bus (one leaves every hour for the volcano)<br />
or the Island View Bus – this bus only covers a portion of the island, so travelers<br />
interested in farther-flung sights, such as a shrine gate almost buried by an eruption<br />
in 1914, should rent a car or bicycle. Hungry? Thanks to its nutrient-rich volcanic soil,<br />
Sakurajima boasts record-sized daikon and delicious miniature mikan oranges.<br />
DAY 1<br />
HOW TO GET THERE If you’re coming from<br />
Kirishima (Trip 2), of then our take itinerary), JR Kyushu's then take Limited the<br />
JR Express Kyushu Kirishima limited express from Kirishima from Kokuba Jingu Station<br />
to Kagoshima-Chuo Station Station (about (about 30 minutes). 30 minutes). Sakura-<br />
Sakurajima is a 15-minute is a 15-minute ferry ride ferry from ride Kagoshima from<br />
city. Kagoshima Those in city. for Cyclists a day of can cycling ride from can ride Kirishima from<br />
Kirishima – the 70km – course the 70km takes course you by takes an art you museum, by an art a<br />
museum, kurozu black a kurozu vinegar black factory, vinegar volcano factory, observa-<br />
volcano<br />
observation points and points more. and more.<br />
WHERE TO STAY Ferries run 24/7, so travelers<br />
can easily stay on mainland Kagoshima – but<br />
those looking to stay on the island itself should<br />
check out hotel Rainbow (www.qkamura-s.com/<br />
sakurajima), which has a an hot attached spring. hot If you're spring. on<br />
If a budget, you're on peek a budget, the Sakurajima peek the Sakurajima Youth Hostel. Youth<br />
DAY 2<br />
YAKUSHIMA ISLAND<br />
Studio Ghibli’s 1997 epic Princess Mononoke takes place in a forest so lush and out of this<br />
world we’d always assumed it came straight from director Hayao Miyazaki’s imagination.<br />
As it turns out, Mononoke’s forest had a real-life model – the island of Yakushima, south of<br />
Kagoshima. For fans of that film – or nature enthusiasts in general – Yakushima’s biggest<br />
draw will be Shiratani Unsuikyo, a relatively easily accessible nature park filled with hiking<br />
trails and footpaths. Look out for the forest’s yakusugi cedar trees, some of which are literally<br />
thousands of years old. Aside from its special brand of trees, Yakushima also has yaku<br />
monkeys and yaku deer, both of which are smaller than their mainland brethren, and can be<br />
regularly spotted while walking the forests. Said forests aren't Yakushima's only attraction,<br />
though: the island also features activities like snorkeling, scuba diving and paddleboarding.<br />
Whatever you do, pack a raincoat: Yakushima is famed for its high levels of precipitation.<br />
HOW TO GET THERE Getting to Yakushima<br />
is part of the adventure. The island<br />
has its own airport, but we recommend<br />
grabbing the high-speed jetfoil from Kagoshima<br />
(how often, after all, do you get<br />
to ride on something called a “jetfoil”?).<br />
The journey takes between two and three<br />
hours and costs ¥15,000 for a round-trip.<br />
WHERE TO STAY Yakushima features<br />
a number of hotels, guesthouses and<br />
rentable cottages, many of which are near<br />
the jetfoil port. Blow all your money just<br />
getting here? Try out one of the island's<br />
six mountain huts, which are entirely<br />
free, as long as you arrive early enough to<br />
snag a spot.<br />
20 | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER
[ PROMOTION ]<br />
DAY 1<br />
Trip 4:<br />
FOR HISTORY BUFFS<br />
Kumamoto, Saga, Nagasaki Prefectures<br />
KUMAMOTO CASTLE<br />
Although you’ll be missing out on actually<br />
seeing its impressive facade, which<br />
is covered in scaffolding as they rebuild<br />
after the 2016 Kumamoto earthquakes,<br />
now is an enlightening time to visit<br />
Kumamoto Castle. It’s one of the few<br />
places in Japan that you can currently<br />
examine the extensive damage and<br />
restoration efforts necessary after an<br />
earthquake hits such a historically<br />
important structure. Built in 1607, the<br />
castle is scheduled to reopen to the<br />
public in early 2019, but the entire<br />
recovery process is expected to take two<br />
decades, mainly because consideration<br />
must be taken to maintain the traditional<br />
structure – for example, every stone<br />
that fell from the massive walls during<br />
the earthquake must be put back into<br />
its original position. When we visited,<br />
we were entranced by the watchtower<br />
alone, which stands tall and proud and<br />
largely intact. We were also astounded<br />
by one huge stone on display, which<br />
was discovered after the earthquake<br />
and features an ancient stone carving of<br />
a Bodhisattva figure.<br />
DAY 2<br />
SAGA'S YOSHINOGARI HISTORICAL PARK<br />
There’s plenty to do and see in Saga Prefecture (see page 22), but for some fascinating insight<br />
into one of Japan’s oldest periods, we recommend visiting Yoshinogari Historical Park<br />
(www.yoshinogari.jp/en). This archeological site features ancient ruins of a king’s village<br />
dating back to the Yayoi period (300BCE-300ACE), with reconstructed huts showing how<br />
people lived and the clothes they wore. Aside from simply trying to imagine what it must<br />
have been like to live in that era, the most intriguing part of our visit was inspecting the<br />
excavated burial jars and the various artifacts that were found inside them such as bronze<br />
swords and glass jewelry.<br />
HOW TO GET THERE If you<br />
stayed at Satsuki Besso ryokan<br />
as recommended for Day 1, then<br />
take the Kyushu Shinkansen from<br />
Shin-Tamana Station to Shin-Tosu<br />
Station (about 25 minutes).<br />
Change to the JR Nagasaki Line<br />
and travel for 10 minutes to<br />
Yoshinogari-Koen Station.<br />
WHERE TO STAY End your day<br />
in Saga’s famous Ureshino onsen<br />
town. We stayed at Warakuen<br />
(www.warakuen.co.jp/english.<br />
html), which has a unique "tea<br />
hot spring." To get here, take the<br />
JR Kyushu Nagasaki Line from<br />
Yoshinogari-Koen Station to<br />
Hizen-Kashima Station, and then<br />
a short taxi ride.<br />
NAGASAKI ATOMIC BOMB MUSEUM & GLOVER GARDEN<br />
The Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum is a sobering start to the day, but it’s also thoroughly<br />
educational and an important reminder of the horror and devastation endured by the city<br />
and its people. For a completely different side to Nagasaki’s history, hop on the city tram<br />
to Glover Garden, where you can see the house built by Thomas Blake in 1863. Originally<br />
from Scotland, Glover contributed to the modernization of Japan through shipbuilding, coal<br />
mining and the tea trade. Those who’ve recently watched Martin Scorcese’s film Silence<br />
might be interested in reading about the “hidden Christian sites” in the region, one of<br />
which, Oura Cathedral, is just down the road from Glover’s home. Also, don’t leave without<br />
chowing down on Nagasaki’s popular champon noodles.<br />
DAY 3<br />
HOW TO GET THERE You can fly<br />
from <strong>Tokyo</strong> to Kumamoto in about<br />
two hours, but if you’re traveling from<br />
Kagoshima (following on from Trip 3),<br />
then take the Kyushu Shinkansen from<br />
Kagoshima-Chuo Station to Kumamoto<br />
Station (about one hour).<br />
WHERE TO STAY Since Day 2 of our<br />
History Buff trip starts with a relatively<br />
long journey, we’d recommend getting<br />
part of the train ride under your belt by<br />
staying at Satsuki Besso ryokan, which is<br />
about 30 minutes out of the city towards<br />
Saga Prefecture. Take the Kyushu<br />
Shinkansen from Kumamoto Station to<br />
Shin-Tamana Station, and then walk for<br />
25 minutes or hop in a taxi.<br />
HOW TO<br />
GET THERE<br />
If you’re<br />
coming from<br />
Ureshino, take<br />
JR Kyushu's<br />
Limited Express Kamome train from<br />
Hizen-Kashima Station to Nagasaki<br />
Station, and then navigate your way<br />
around the city on the adorable<br />
tramway, founded in 1915.<br />
WHERE TO STAY Huis Ten Bosch<br />
theme park is modeled on what<br />
the Netherlands looked like in the<br />
Middle Ages. There are four hotels,<br />
with Henn-na Hotel being the<br />
world’s first hotel to feature robot<br />
staff. english.huistenbosch.co.jp<br />
TOKYO WEEKENDER | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | 21
[ PROMOTION ]<br />
6 WAYS TO<br />
ENJOY FALL<br />
IN SAGA<br />
If you enjoyed our<br />
recommended itinerary<br />
for finding your<br />
perfect Kyushu, you<br />
might decide you<br />
want to extend your<br />
trip by a few days to<br />
delve a little deeper<br />
into what’s on offer.<br />
If you happen to be<br />
planning your getaway<br />
for autumn,<br />
here are a few more<br />
things to do and see<br />
while you’re in Saga<br />
Prefecture<br />
DAIKOZEN-JI TEMPLE<br />
Not only revered for its autumn allure, this mountaintop<br />
temple in Kiyama was built in the early 800s, giving you<br />
the chance to view some of Japan’s oldest architecture<br />
including its reed thatched roof. Situated halfway up Mt.<br />
Chigiriyama, it’s surrounded by a forest of cedar, gingko,<br />
and maple trees, which are the leading ladies come<br />
mid-November. (It’s also become famous for its 50,000-<br />
odd azalea bushes, which are the main attraction during<br />
spring and have led to the temple being nicknamed Tsutsuji<br />
Tera, or Azalea Temple.) You’ll need to brave a long, steep<br />
stairway to reach the top, but the feeling of being inside<br />
a picturesque oil painting is worth the effort. 3628 Oaza<br />
Sonobe, Kiyama-Machi, Miyaki-Gun, Saga. ¥500 entrance fee<br />
in autumn (November and December). www.daikouzenji.com<br />
KUNENAN<br />
There are several reasons to visit this<br />
former residence of Saga businessman<br />
Yataro Itami, but the mansion and its expansive<br />
gardens are probably most wellknown<br />
for being one of the prefecture’s<br />
most exclusive momijigari (autumn leaves<br />
viewing) spots. As such, it’s only open for<br />
nine days at the peak of the fall foliage<br />
beauty: from November 15 to 23, 8:30am<br />
to 4pm. (It also opens for a limited time<br />
during spring.) The name Kunenan<br />
means “Nine-year House,” and refers to<br />
the fact that its garden took nine years<br />
to build, with construction beginning in<br />
1900 and supervised by a Zen Buddhist<br />
priest. The architecture follows the traditional<br />
tea house style, while the garden<br />
shows off the art of shakkei – a style of<br />
gardening that “borrows” scenery from<br />
nearby landmarks and incorporates them<br />
into the design. Stroll amongst the azaleas<br />
and maple trees for an elegant autumn<br />
afternoon. 1696 Ikuwa, Kanzaki-machi,<br />
Kanzaki-shi, Saga. ¥300 entrance fee.<br />
22 | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER
[ PROMOTION ]<br />
YOU’LL NEED TO BRAVE A STEEP STAIRWAY TO<br />
REACH THE TOP, BUT THE FEELING OF BEING INSIDE A<br />
PICTURESQUE OIL PAINTING IS WORTH THE EFFORT<br />
SAGA BEEF<br />
Known for being one of the best wagyu beef<br />
brands in Japan, Saga Beef benefits from the<br />
prefecture’s mild climate, pure water, and<br />
clean air. The Japanese Black cows are raised<br />
using expert breeding techniques, ensuring<br />
they do not experience any major stress. To<br />
taste this deliciously sweet and rich marbled<br />
beef, we recommend Kira, a renowned<br />
restaurant in central Saga that’s run by Japan<br />
Agricultural Cooperatives. We stopped by for<br />
lunch and ordered thin strips of Saga gyu,<br />
which we cooked ourselves on the iron plate<br />
grill in the center of the table, served with a<br />
large bowl of vegetables, salad, miso soup,<br />
rice, and pickles. Undoubtedly one of the most<br />
succulent beef dishes we’ve ever tasted. You<br />
can also order it as steak, or take a seat at the<br />
teppanyaki counter to watch the chef at work.<br />
(If you can’t make it all the way to Saga, note<br />
they also have a branch in Ginza, <strong>Tokyo</strong>.) 3-9-<br />
16 Otakara, Saga-shi, Saga. kira.saga-ja.jp/en<br />
IKIZUKURI SQUID<br />
Of course Japan in its entirety is famed for having the freshest, most delicious seafood, but if you<br />
want to experience local cuisine at its source, it’s best to visit a port town and try their speciality.<br />
In Saga, there’s one such city called Karatsu, which is famed for its port area called Yobuko. Here<br />
you should order ikizukuri – live squid that’s so live it squirms on your plate. Early risers will<br />
enjoy visiting the Yobuko Morning Market, where you can opt for dried squid should the live<br />
version be a tad too much for you. This market dates back to the early 1900s, and is considered<br />
one of the three biggest fish markets of Japan.<br />
KARATSU KUNCHI FESTIVAL<br />
This autumn matsuri is held at Karatsu Shrine<br />
and is one of Kyushu’s major festivals, dating<br />
back about 400 years and attracting 500,000<br />
visitors. What makes this festival particularly<br />
interesting is its unique hikiyama (giant floats).<br />
The first in the series of 14 was made by a<br />
woodcarving craftsman in 1819 and is called<br />
Akajishi (Red Lion float). The other 13 were all<br />
produced over the next 60 years, and feature<br />
awe-inspiring designs – probably the most<br />
unusual one is The Red Snapper, which literally<br />
looks like a fish and is meant to represent the<br />
fish markets from the old days. The floats each<br />
weigh two to five tons, and measure 4.5 to 6.8<br />
meters in height. If you can’t make it in time to<br />
see the floats being hauled along the street, or<br />
through the sand on Nishinohama Beach, you<br />
can still see them on display at the Hikiyama<br />
Exhibition Hall (6-33 Nishi-Jonai, Karatsu-shi,<br />
Saga). November 2-4, beginning at Karatsu<br />
Shrine, 3-13 Minami-Jonai, Karatsu-shi, Saga.<br />
SAGA INTERNATIONAL BALLOON FIESTA<br />
Held annually at the beginning of November, along the Kase River, this international hot air<br />
balloon competition is the largest of its kind in Asia. Boasting over 800,000 visitors every year,<br />
the event sees around 100 colorful balloons gathering and taking flight before landing several<br />
kilometers away from the fiesta grounds. There are competitive flights, which are held twice a<br />
day; the official balloons, which fly just before the main competition begins; and the Fantasia<br />
balloons, which are shaped to look like animals and cartoon characters, and are inflated every<br />
morning although they don’t actually lift off the ground. November 1-5, <strong>2017</strong>. www.sibf.jp/en<br />
TOKYO WEEKENDER | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | 23
A DAY IN<br />
THE LIFE<br />
OF A<br />
GEISHA<br />
Interview by Bunny Bissoux<br />
Geisha are some of the most iconic figures of<br />
traditional Japanese culture and yet remain<br />
cloaked in a veil of mystery and strict etiquette.<br />
We spoke with Sayuki, Japan’s first foreign<br />
geisha, to find out about her daily life and learn<br />
more about her unique profession<br />
WHAT IS YOUR TYPICAL<br />
DAY LIKE?<br />
Normally, I correspond with customers<br />
in the morning, practice<br />
or do classes in the afternoon,<br />
and do banquets when I have<br />
bookings in the evening. I am a<br />
flute specialist and do classes at<br />
different times of the year for<br />
flute: in nagauta music from the<br />
kabuki theatre, hauta and kouta<br />
– “little songs” that are like haiku<br />
set to music (and are the most<br />
common type of geisha music) –<br />
festival music, lion dance music,<br />
and minyo folk music. I also take<br />
lessons in singing and shamisen.<br />
WHY DID YOU CHOOSE<br />
THIS JOB?<br />
I was working previously on<br />
documentaries for NHK, the BBC,<br />
National Geographic Channel and<br />
other broadcasters. While I was<br />
trying to sell the idea of a behindthe-scenes<br />
geisha documentary,<br />
I suggested that I be the geisha<br />
being trained and filmed over<br />
a year. After my initial planned<br />
year was up I had only just<br />
debuted – and wanted to learn<br />
so much more – so I asked and<br />
got permission from the Asakusa<br />
Geisha Association to continue<br />
as a geisha. I would still love to<br />
make my own program, about<br />
how I am currently helping the<br />
Photo by Saskia Wesserling<br />
Fukagawa geisha to revive<br />
their district.<br />
HOW DO YOU BECOME<br />
A GEISHA?<br />
You train by being accepted into<br />
a geisha house, most often in a<br />
recognized geisha district. All<br />
the training is done by following<br />
one’s geisha mother around<br />
in her everyday activities and<br />
learning by example, and by<br />
24 | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER
Photo by Saskia Wesserling<br />
taking lessons in music and/or dance. Once<br />
the new geisha can perform well enough to<br />
attend banquets she learns how to entertain<br />
by watching her older sisters work. How long<br />
this takes depends on how strict the district<br />
is. Some Kyoto maiko debut in as little as<br />
three months, but in conservative Asakusa, I<br />
did a very long apprenticeship for 11 months.<br />
As does any trainee who is past her early<br />
twenties, I debuted directly as a geisha rather<br />
than as a maiko or hangyoku as they are<br />
called in <strong>Tokyo</strong>.<br />
WHAT IS THE MOST IMPORTANT<br />
ASPECT OF BEING A GEISHA?<br />
Geisha need to be everything to everyone. A<br />
banquet with Japanese guests who have been<br />
commuting to the geisha world for decades<br />
is different to a banquet for first-time foreign<br />
tourists, and different again to an expat<br />
family party with kids. We always need to be<br />
aware of how we can cater best to our customers<br />
and make sure they have a wonderful<br />
time. It takes time to learn<br />
to be very sensitive and always aware of our<br />
customers’ needs. In the end, though, if a geisha<br />
does not love her art, then it doesn’t last.<br />
WHAT’S THE BEST PART OF THE JOB?<br />
To be a geisha is to be in a very beautiful<br />
world, surrounded by beautiful women, and<br />
beautiful things, and entertaining in beautiful<br />
places. It is difficult to have a truly beautiful<br />
WHAT’S THE MOST UNEXPECTED<br />
PART OF JOB?<br />
Many people think that a banquet is a very<br />
stiff formal occasion, but depending on<br />
what the customers want, banquets can be<br />
very raucous! The older Fukagawa geisha<br />
have some great drinking games and<br />
Japanese really love to get into the swing<br />
of things. At a recent banquet things got<br />
so wild that we had to keep covering the<br />
trainee geisha’s eyes!<br />
WHY WOULD YOU RECOMMEND<br />
PEOPLE TRY THE GEISHA<br />
EXPERIENCE?<br />
To attend a genuine geisha banquet<br />
is to see the most beautiful of traditional<br />
Japanese architecture in the teahouses,<br />
the most precious artworks, and<br />
calligraphy and pottery in the interiors<br />
of the teahouses, the best of Japanese<br />
kimono in the geisha’s attire, and the<br />
best of Japanese cuisine and sake, and of<br />
course, an introduction to Japanese music<br />
and dance. There is no other single experience<br />
or occasion in which you can get<br />
such a completely comprehensive cultural<br />
experience.<br />
AT A RECENT BANQUET THINGS GOT SO WILD THAT WE<br />
HAD TO KEEP COVERING THE TRAINEE GEISHA’S EYES!<br />
life, but this comes close to it. Now we are<br />
in the first days of autumn, for my next<br />
banquet I will choose a single-layered silk<br />
kimono, with a design predicting the autumn<br />
soon to come. I have hundreds of kimono<br />
now, but a geisha can never have enough!<br />
There is a lot of giving and receiving of kimono<br />
in the geisha world: the geisha mother<br />
I had when I was in Asakusa called me out<br />
just recently to give me another of hers: a<br />
beautiful dark blue banquet kimono with<br />
fine gold patterns.<br />
WHAT KIND OF EVENT WOULD YOU<br />
RECOMMEND HIRING A GEISHA FOR?<br />
Every occasion! Apart from the normal banquet,<br />
geisha have always been hired for celebratory<br />
occasions of any kind. Geisha appear<br />
at the openings of new shops, or on the first<br />
day of the sumo or theatre. In modern times,<br />
we have danced at Narita Airport for the<br />
opening of new flights, danced at Frankfurt<br />
Messe trade show, attended parties at private<br />
homes, gone out on boats in <strong>Tokyo</strong> Bay or even<br />
entertained on the ski slopes in Niseko. Geisha<br />
can be called anywhere in the world too.<br />
I very much welcome any ideas to connect<br />
with new audiences.<br />
IS IT EXPENSIVE TO CALL A GEISHA,<br />
AND WHAT ARE SOME OF THE<br />
OPTIONS?<br />
It is the ratio of geisha to customers that<br />
decides the price, so if you want to make<br />
it cheaper, get some friends together and<br />
organize a larger group. Our most exciting<br />
new project for the Fukagawa geisha is our<br />
Geisha School. We have opened up the lessons<br />
of the little geisha for the very first time, so<br />
that anyone can come and watch a dance or<br />
music lesson by the older geisha. This is a very<br />
cheap way to meet geisha, and a great way to<br />
support the geisha world, as all proceeds will<br />
go directly to the training of the young geisha.<br />
If you would like to visit a teahouse, just email<br />
me and let me know how many people you<br />
are, and what your maximum budget is per<br />
person, then I can make all the arrangements<br />
for you. Recently I have been given the use<br />
of a beautiful 100-year-old house in Kamakura.<br />
We can arrange private parties there, or<br />
customers can use the house for the weekend<br />
with a banquet on a Friday or Saturday. We<br />
are happy to cater for a range of budgets.<br />
WHAT OTHER SERVICES DO YOU<br />
OFFER?<br />
Apart from banquets, I offer a number of other<br />
activities including “lunch with Sayuki” (a<br />
lunch with me to talk about the geisha world),<br />
geisha shopping (visiting the beautiful little<br />
shops and craftsmen making the products<br />
that geisha use), kimono shopping (a complete<br />
introduction to kimono by visiting the best<br />
recycled kimono shops), antique market<br />
shopping (finding genuine samurai armour<br />
or geisha pillows, antique pottery and ukiyo-e<br />
paintings, all at rock bottom prices), kabuki<br />
viewing (offering extra commentary while<br />
watching kabuki).<br />
CALL SAYUKI<br />
You can contact Sayuki directly at<br />
sayuki.geisha@gmail.com for all enquiries,<br />
and to call her and her geisha sisters<br />
to events across <strong>Tokyo</strong> and beyond.<br />
Find out more at www.sayuki.net<br />
TOKYO WEEKENDER | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | 25
Not quite yet, but they are filling<br />
in a few gaps, from hotel staff to<br />
Buddhist monks. We take a look<br />
at some of the positions currently<br />
held by humanoids in Japan<br />
Words by Matthew Hernon<br />
In 1970 Japanese robotics professor Masahiro Mori identified<br />
the concept of “Bukimi no Tani Gensho,” which became<br />
known in English as "The Uncanny Valley." His hypothesis<br />
stated that the anthropomorphism of robots was appealing<br />
up to the point where they become too human-like, at<br />
which stage our feelings change to those of revulsion.<br />
Osaka University professor and roboticist Hiroshi<br />
Ishiguro's 2015 creation Erica could be cited as an example.<br />
The incredibly realistic-looking humanoid – which has sat<br />
through numerous press conferences answering journalists’<br />
questions, and can simulate human expressions – has been<br />
described as the "most beautiful," and "the creepiest," robot<br />
ever made.<br />
Whichever side of the fence you sit on, there is no doubt<br />
that for some people Mori's theory rings true. Another issue<br />
is the fear that robots could make people redundant in the<br />
future. According to studies by data analysis firm Nomura<br />
Research Institute (NRI), around half of the jobs in Japan<br />
could be done by artificial intelligence within 20 years.<br />
While that may sound unnerving, in a country with an aging<br />
population and a shrinking workforce would it really be<br />
such a terrible thing?<br />
The government here certainly doesn't think so. In<br />
2015 the Robot Revolution Initiative Council was set up in<br />
an effort to take robotics to another level. Since then we've<br />
seen a growing number of Japanese robots making headlines<br />
for their contributions to the service industry. In many<br />
cases companies are using them more as public relations<br />
tools than anything else, but it's still interesting to see the<br />
progress that's being made. So what kind of jobs are they<br />
currently doing? Here's a look at a few of the more intriguing<br />
ones, some more useful than others.<br />
HOTEL STAFF<br />
A couple of months after the Robot Initiative Council was<br />
launched, Henn-na (Weird) Hotel opened to much fanfare<br />
in Nagasaki. It is the world's first hotel to be staffed mostly<br />
by robots. On the reception desk, there are two multilingual<br />
dinosaurs and a realistic-looking female humanoid with<br />
eyelashes to greet customers and confirm bookings<br />
(pictured right). If you are in the luxury wing an<br />
incredibly slow-moving porter robot will then<br />
carry your bags to the room while playing mu-
sic. Next to the bed you'll find a cute electronic<br />
creature called Churi-chan who can change<br />
the room temperature, turn on the lights and<br />
arrange a wake-up call, but only in Japanese.<br />
Other robots in the hotel include a foot-high<br />
concierge and a mechanical arm that will<br />
store your luggage. There are some humans<br />
working there because robots can't make<br />
beds or take care of security. They also aren't<br />
good at finding lost keys, so facial recognition<br />
technology is used instead. Earlier this year a<br />
second Henn-na Hotel was opened in Maihama,<br />
Chiba, near <strong>Tokyo</strong> Disney Resort.<br />
PAROLEE MENTORS<br />
While recidivism rates are relatively low in<br />
Japan, the number of repeat offenders among<br />
the elderly remains a real cause for concern.<br />
Many ex-cons are poor and lonely with no<br />
guarantors to check on them, so some might<br />
feel they'd be better off back inside where<br />
they'd be fed and surrounded by people.<br />
There aren't enough social workers to deter<br />
them from committing petty crimes, so last<br />
year the Ministry of Justice turned to Pepper,<br />
the four-foot robot that can analyze body<br />
language and read a person's emotions. It was<br />
placed in a <strong>Tokyo</strong> halfway house in the hope<br />
that former criminals would share things<br />
with the humanoid that they wouldn't with<br />
humans. It's more cost-effective than employing<br />
regular staff and robots can do 24-hour<br />
shifts without breaks. The problem is that the<br />
parolees are unlikely to ever fully develop an<br />
emotional attachment with the robot.<br />
CARE WORKERS AND COMPANIONS<br />
FOR THE ELDERLY<br />
Japan is experiencing population aging at a<br />
globally unprecedented pace. Around 26 percent<br />
of the nation's citizens are 65 or above,<br />
which is by far the highest proportion in the<br />
world, and by 2025 it's estimated that the<br />
country will face a shortage of around 380,000<br />
caregivers. An influx of foreign workers could<br />
help, but it's still unlikely to be enough. Carebots<br />
are, therefore, seen as a logical solution.<br />
They can provide physical therapy, assist with<br />
bathing, lifting and mobility, and monitor the<br />
whereabouts of the elderly through sensors.<br />
Communication is another particularly<br />
useful tool. Earlier this year a nursing home<br />
in Natori, Miyagi Prefecture began using a<br />
toddler-sized humanoid known as Telenoid<br />
that can capture the voice and movements of<br />
a loved one thousands of miles away using a<br />
microphone and camera. It then replicates<br />
those actions for the person in possession of<br />
the robot. Staff at the facility have noticed<br />
that elderly people, especially those with<br />
dementia, have become more positive and<br />
active when communicating with Telenoid.<br />
BUDDHIST MONKS<br />
Funerals in Japan certainly don't come<br />
cheap. There are all kinds of charges to<br />
factor in, including the price of a Buddhist<br />
priest whose services will usually<br />
cost around ¥240,000. Earlier this year<br />
plastic mold-making company Nissei Eco<br />
Ltd. attempted to create a much cheaper<br />
alternative by charging around ¥50,000 for<br />
Softbank's robot Pepper, which they programmed<br />
to chant sutras from four Buddhist<br />
sects in a computerized voice while tapping<br />
on a drum. It is reminiscent of the German<br />
robot BlessU-2, which can deliver blessings<br />
in five different languages and beams light<br />
from its hands. However, while BlessU-2 was<br />
designed to trigger debate about the future<br />
of the church and the potential of artificial<br />
intelligence, Pepper Priests have been introduced<br />
more as a matter of necessity. The<br />
traditional danka system, in which parishioners<br />
support temples through donations, is<br />
not as stable as it once was, so many monks<br />
are looking for part-time work away from<br />
their usual duties. Pepper is seen as a viable<br />
substitute while they are away, though many<br />
have questioned whether a robot can properly<br />
fulfil religious duties.<br />
THE ACTROID<br />
From Maria in Fritz Lang’s 1928 expressionist<br />
science-fiction drama Metropolis to<br />
C-3PO in Star Wars, robots have performed<br />
prominent roles in movies for decades. Yet,<br />
up to 2015 they have always either been<br />
played by humans or brought to life with<br />
motion capture technology. Things changed<br />
two years ago when Geminoid F co-starred<br />
in Koji Fukada’s flick Sayonara as Leona<br />
(pictured top right), becoming the first actor<br />
humanoid (called an “actroid”) to appear in<br />
a feature-length film. Equipped with motorized<br />
actuators enabling it to copy human expressions,<br />
the wheelchair-bound Leona stays<br />
loyal to its owner Tania, played by American<br />
actress Bryerly Long, following a lethal<br />
nuclear power plant meltdown in Japan. The<br />
robot is controlled by a computer owned<br />
by creator Hiroshi Ishiguro. The story was<br />
adapted from a play by Oriza Hirata, which<br />
also starred Geminoid F and Long. Other<br />
robots to have made a splash in the entertainment<br />
industry include Otonaroid (resembling<br />
a woman) and Kodomoroid (resembling a<br />
child), the world's first android newscasters,<br />
and DMM's Premaid AI robots that dance on<br />
table-tops like J-Pop stars.<br />
FOOT SNIFFERS<br />
Okay, so it's not what you would call a typical<br />
job, but Japan's latest innovative robot<br />
deserves a mention. Hana-chan, a play on<br />
the Japanese word for nose, is a cute robot<br />
dog equipped with an odor detection sensor<br />
for a nose. If your feet don't smell then<br />
Hana will wag its tail; it will bark if they are<br />
slightly malodorous; and if things are really<br />
bad it will keel over. The dog was created by<br />
manufacturers Next Technology, who were<br />
responding to a request from a man desperate<br />
to know if he had a smelly problem. Other<br />
scent-related tech that has recently gone on<br />
the market includes Panasonic's deodorizing<br />
coat hangers, which automatically eliminate<br />
odors and pollen from clothing, and a clip-on<br />
armpit fan devised by gadget maker Thanko.<br />
TOKYO WEEKENDER | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | 27
Words by Alec Jordan<br />
On the eve of his first ever major retrospective of his work at this month’s<br />
<strong>Tokyo</strong> International Film Festival, anime director Keiichi Hara talks about why<br />
he decided to set out on his own as a filmmaker<br />
After graduating<br />
from <strong>Tokyo</strong><br />
Designer Gakuin<br />
College, director<br />
Keiichi Hara was<br />
taking a tour of the animation<br />
studio <strong>Tokyo</strong> Movie, when he<br />
decided to take his fate – and his<br />
future employment – into his<br />
own hands. He left the tour and<br />
found Kyosuke Miyoshi, who<br />
had directed some of the famous<br />
Lupin the Third anime series, and<br />
begged him for a job. Apparently<br />
impressed with the young man’s<br />
ardor, the artistic director asked<br />
for Hara to come back after a<br />
week or so with a script and a<br />
storyboard for an episode of the<br />
show. His creative abilities proved<br />
a match for his initiative, and Miyoshi<br />
got him a job at a company<br />
that made commercials.<br />
To say that he’s come a<br />
long way since then would be<br />
something of an understatement.<br />
After more than 20 years working<br />
as a director for commercially<br />
successful and critically acclaimed<br />
projects such as movies in the<br />
Doraemon and Crayon Shin-chan<br />
series, Hara decided to launch<br />
his career as an independent<br />
filmmaker, and has been able to<br />
combine the singular vision of an auteur with the ability to bring audiences<br />
into the theaters.<br />
His first film as an independent director was Summer Days with<br />
Coo, a film that depicts the adventures of an elementary school boy<br />
who befriends a kappa, a supernatural water spirit. This was followed<br />
by Colorful, an adaptation of a novel that retells the aftermath of a<br />
junior high school boy’s suicide attempt. Hara turned his hand towards<br />
live action film with Dawn of a Filmmaker: The Keisuke Kinoshita Story,<br />
a biopic about the legendary film director Keisuke Kinoshita. (Hara<br />
may have recognized something of a kindred spirit in Kinoshita, who<br />
ran away from home when he was in high school in his first bid at a<br />
career in cinema.) Finally, he took on the subject of Edo period painters<br />
and printmakers in Miss Hokusai, which was adapted from the manga,<br />
Colorful, ©2010 ETO MORI / FUJI TELEVISION<br />
NETWORK, SUNRISE, DENTSU, Aniplex, Sony Music<br />
Entertainment (Japan), TOHO All Rights Reserved.<br />
Sarusuberi. This movie<br />
focuses on O-Ei, one<br />
of the daughters of the<br />
great Edo period artist,<br />
Hokusai, a young woman<br />
whose talent and temper rivals that of her father.<br />
Hara’s independent movies have drawn attention both in Japan<br />
and overseas: Summer Days with Coo won the Grand Prize for Animation<br />
at the 11th Japan Media Arts Festival and the Best Animation Film<br />
award at the Mainichi Film Awards; Colorful took home the Excellent<br />
Animation of the Year award at the Japan Academy Awards, the Best<br />
Animation Film award at the Mainichi Film Awards, and the Audience<br />
and Special Distinction prizes at the Annecy International Animated<br />
Film Festival; and Miss Hokusai won the Jury Award at Annecy, as well<br />
28 | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER
as the Best Animation Film Award at the 70th<br />
Mainichi Film Awards. This year, in recognition<br />
of the director’s body of work, the <strong>Tokyo</strong><br />
International Film Festival, which kicks off<br />
on <strong>October</strong> 25, has dedicated its animation<br />
section to his creative output.<br />
<strong>Weekender</strong> recently dropped by Hara’s<br />
studio in Nakano to talk with him about…<br />
THE CHALLENGE OF BRINGING<br />
COLORFUL TO LIFE:<br />
With Colorful, it was a client who asked me<br />
to make that film. I didn't know the original<br />
novel, but when I read it, at first I didn't think<br />
Miss Hokusai, ©2014-2015 Hinako<br />
Sugiura MS.HS / Sarusuberi Film Partners<br />
Mami the Psychic: Dancing Dolls in a Starry Sky, ©Fujikopro,<br />
Shogakukan, TV-Asahi, Shin-ei, and ADK 1988<br />
nese people feel that aspect of things strongly;<br />
even though we are a developed country, we<br />
still believe in connections with dead people,<br />
and gods dwelling in nature. So I want to honor<br />
that part of Japanese people's hearts, and<br />
continue to reflect that in my films to come.<br />
THE IMPORTANCE OF THE SUPER-<br />
NATURAL IN HIS FILMS:<br />
I haven't experienced anything like that<br />
myself, but I feel like there is some kind of<br />
supernatural influence in our world, in the<br />
form of certain phenomenon, or in the case<br />
of things like fate or destiny. I think Japathat<br />
it was great material for an anime. But<br />
the producer was intent on making it into<br />
an anime, and requested that I do it. I took<br />
it up as a challenge to turn the story into an<br />
animated film.<br />
THE SERIOUS TOPICS LYING AT<br />
THE HEART OF A FILM DIRECTED AT<br />
JUNIOR HIGH SCHOOL STUDENTS:<br />
[This film] tells the story of a junior high<br />
school student who commits suicide, one<br />
whose mother is having an affair, and<br />
another who is prostituting herself to buy<br />
the things she wants. These are heavy topics.<br />
These things are really happening now in<br />
Japan. I didn't want people to look away<br />
from these problems, but face them head on.<br />
There are young people who are struggling<br />
with those problems, so I made this film for<br />
those people.<br />
WHAT DREW HIM TO THE STORY<br />
BEHIND MISS HOKUSAI:<br />
I really loved Hinako Sugiura's manga, and I<br />
knew that I wanted to make an anime from<br />
her work at some time. So when I had the<br />
opportunity to collaborate with Production<br />
I.G, I was very happy to be able to bring this<br />
piece to life. It was really like a dream come<br />
true.<br />
THE UNIQUE APPEARANCE OF MISS<br />
HOKUSAI’S LEADING LADY:<br />
In the original story, O-Ei is not a beautiful<br />
I DIDN'T WANT PEOPLE<br />
TO LOOK AWAY FROM<br />
THESE PROBLEMS, BUT<br />
FACE THEM HEAD ON<br />
woman, and from the historical records that<br />
remain, it was very certain that O-Ei was<br />
not a beautiful woman. But because she is<br />
the protagonist, I thought it was a good idea<br />
to make her beautiful, but not completely<br />
gorgeous. So I made her attractive, but I<br />
made her eyebrows very thick and gave her<br />
other striking features. She’s pretty, but she<br />
has a unique appearance that will make an<br />
impression on the audience.<br />
Dawn of a Filmmaker: The Keisuke Kinoshita Story,<br />
©2013 "Dawn of a Filmmaker" Partners<br />
WHY HE DECIDED TO GO IT ALONE<br />
AFTER DECADES OF SUCCESS:<br />
I had a long part of my career directing as an<br />
employee, and during that time, I wasn't making<br />
films for myself, but doing what I was being<br />
told by the company. Within those limitations,<br />
I tried to maximize my freedom. Finally,<br />
I felt like I had achieved a certain measure of<br />
success, but I was aware of the limitations. So<br />
I decided to launch myself on my own. However,<br />
not many people get to spend most of their<br />
career making only movies! I have been able<br />
to make only films up until now, so I feel very<br />
lucky to be able to do this work. I also think<br />
that it's not easy to keep making only movies,<br />
but if possible, I want to keep making them for<br />
the rest of my career.<br />
THE 30TH TOKYO<br />
INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL<br />
PUTS A SPOTLIGHT ON THE<br />
WORLD OF KEIICHI HARA<br />
This year marks the fourth year since<br />
the <strong>Tokyo</strong> International Film Festival<br />
revived its Special Focus on Japanese<br />
Animation, and <strong>2017</strong> also marks the<br />
100th anniversary of the institution of<br />
Japanese animation itself. In honor of<br />
this historic occasion, TIFF is focusing<br />
on the work and worlds of Keiichi<br />
Hara. This is the first ever major<br />
retrospective of the director’s work,<br />
and will feature movies in the Shinchan<br />
series as well as his more recent<br />
independent films.<br />
TIFF will take place between <strong>October</strong><br />
25 and November 3, <strong>2017</strong>. Full details<br />
about screenings are available at<br />
<strong>2017</strong>.tiff-jp.net
The Future<br />
of Japanese<br />
Football<br />
Meet the man who believes he can transform the game<br />
Words by Matthew Hernon<br />
It's been almost a quarter of a century<br />
since the launch of the J-league and<br />
though not as glamorous as it once was,<br />
it's arguably in a better place now than it<br />
has ever has been. Like the current Chinese<br />
Super League, the early initiative was to<br />
bring in an array of high-profile players such<br />
as Zico, Gary Lineker, and Hristo Stoichkov<br />
to entice large crowds. For a brief time, it<br />
worked, but in a struggling economy it was<br />
unsustainable and the novelty began to wear<br />
off in the mid-Nineties.<br />
With the big names departing, attendances<br />
plummeting and clubs’ sponsors pulling<br />
the plug on their investments, the League<br />
decided to change its approach. The focus<br />
switched from the superstar individuals and<br />
became more about the teams, who were<br />
encouraged to build close ties with their local<br />
communities.<br />
It was all part of the 100 Year Vision project<br />
that was announced towards the end of<br />
the 20th century aimed at making 100 professional<br />
teams by 2092. At the time, many saw<br />
it as overly ambitious; however, with 54 sides<br />
currently spread out over three divisions,<br />
the plan looks like it could come to fruition<br />
sooner than expected.<br />
When viewing the League from a domestic<br />
perspective, there's a lot to be positive<br />
about. Attendances have been steadily<br />
increasing (the J1 average this season is, at<br />
the time of writing 1,000 higher than the last<br />
campaign), title races are often unpredictable,<br />
and exciting young players are emerging<br />
all the time. Japanese football is popular in<br />
certain Asian countries and does have something<br />
of a cult following elsewhere, but could<br />
it be doing more to attract greater interest<br />
from the rest of the world?<br />
Takehiko Nakamura certainly thinks<br />
so. The New York-based president, CEO and<br />
founder of sports management consulting<br />
firm Blue United Corporation has a wealth<br />
of experience in the game, having worked in<br />
management roles for Major League Soccer<br />
in the US and FC Barcelona. The man chiefly<br />
responsible for bringing former Italian World<br />
30 | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER
Cup-winning striker Alessandro Del Piero to<br />
Japan for a charity match to raise funds for<br />
those affected by the 2011 earthquake, he<br />
has spent his most of his career attempting<br />
to import foreign football to Japan. Now his<br />
main goal is to export the Japanese game to<br />
the world.<br />
"In terms of what's happening on<br />
the pitch, great strides are being made<br />
in Japanese football," Nakamura tells us.<br />
"You see [Gaku] Shibasaki settling in Spain,<br />
[Shinji] Kagawa regularly playing Champions<br />
League football, multiple players in the<br />
Bundesliga: there are plenty of good things<br />
happening. I just feel that the business side<br />
needs to catch up.<br />
"Of course, the funds aren't there to be<br />
able to compete with European leagues,<br />
yet the J-League could be more creative in<br />
terms of promoting its product globally.<br />
Everything is run pretty well and things are<br />
stable, but you see the press releases only in<br />
Japanese, and I sometimes wonder if there is<br />
any desire at all to have a presence outside<br />
the country. I spoke to some clubs and had<br />
casual conversations with the league about<br />
the possibility of an international office,<br />
but they didn't move. Fortunately, Kashima<br />
Antlers did."<br />
The most successful professional club in<br />
Japanese history and current J-League champions,<br />
Kashima, in cooperation with Blue<br />
United Corporation, became the country’s<br />
first team to set up an office overseas when<br />
they opened in New York earlier this year.<br />
International interest in the Ibaraki-based<br />
side has risen over the past few months after<br />
reaching the 2016 FIFA Club World Cup final<br />
and then taking the mighty Real Madrid to<br />
extra time. They’re now looking to build<br />
on that success by making a splash beyond<br />
these shores.<br />
"Kashima are a club with an understanding<br />
of what it means to go global," says<br />
Nakamura. "They're one of three sides in the<br />
country with an English-language Twitter<br />
account and have staff in their office who've<br />
worked abroad. They've stepped into the digital<br />
age and are prepared to learn from the<br />
marketing strategies of clubs in other countries.<br />
Added to all that, their profile was at<br />
THE REALITY HIT HOME ONE DAY WHEN HE WAS<br />
CRUSHED AGAINST A WINDOW ON A CROWDED TRAIN<br />
AND SAW A NEWSPAPER FEATURING ICHIRO SUZUKI<br />
AND HIDETOSHI NAKATA<br />
an all-time high because of the performance<br />
against Madrid, so the timing was perfect."<br />
It was a fantastic opportunity for Blue<br />
United as well, who are helping Kashima<br />
with their digital planning and selling sponsorship<br />
for them outside of Japan. They’re<br />
also working with various footballers, eSports<br />
players and four other J-League teams on<br />
a variety of projects including scouting in<br />
the US and arranging youth competitions.<br />
Right now, the business is purely focused on<br />
consulting, but in the near future Nakamura<br />
wants the organization to be more than<br />
just a middle man and to own something<br />
concrete. Reviving an international club<br />
tournament involving Asian, North American<br />
and Oceanic teams is his immediate<br />
goal. He came up with the idea during his<br />
university days and the concept became a<br />
reality in 2008. The inaugural competition<br />
of the Pan Pacific Championship, as it was<br />
known, featured LA Galaxy and their star<br />
performer, David Beckham.<br />
“That was quite a boost in terms of<br />
promotion,” Nakamura says with a smile.<br />
“Seeing the crowds and media coverage<br />
it attracted was very exciting for me as it<br />
was basically just an idea I'd written about<br />
for my master's thesis three years earlier.<br />
I felt that it would give Japanese players,<br />
who only played domestically, a chance to<br />
test themselves against footballers from<br />
outside of Asia. Hawaii seemed like the best<br />
destination to host it as it's situated between<br />
the different continents. Locals there rarely<br />
got to see big football tournaments so that<br />
was a plus point and of course, the fantastic<br />
weather was another factor. It did well, but<br />
was moved to Los Angeles a year later.<br />
"The tournament returned to Hawaii<br />
in 2012 and we want to bring it back there<br />
again this coming February. Another of<br />
our objectives is to launch a soccer school<br />
in New York. I think owning what I call<br />
'properties' gives a company more of an<br />
established feel and that can help us when<br />
negotiating with prospective clients. Ultimately<br />
our goal is to make a big impression<br />
internationally.”<br />
A man with lofty ambitions, Nakamura<br />
believes he can help to transform the<br />
game in Japan. He started out working as a<br />
businessman for NEC, yet while the job was<br />
stable, meetings about optical fiber cables<br />
didn't particularly captivate him. The reality<br />
hit home one day when he was crushed<br />
against a window on a crowded train and<br />
saw a newspaper featuring baseball star<br />
Ichiro Suzuki and leading Asian footballer<br />
Hidetoshi Nakata. The latter was just 24, yet<br />
had already achieved so much doing something<br />
he loved, while Nakamura, who was<br />
the same age, had simply been surviving in<br />
an industry he cared little for.<br />
The likelihood of making it as an athlete<br />
had passed, but Nakamura could at least<br />
pursue his passion of football through<br />
business. In 2004, he decided to move to the<br />
States, where he also grew up, to do a master’s<br />
in Sports Management at the University<br />
of Massachusetts Amherst. After graduating<br />
he worked as an intern for the MLS before<br />
persuading Arsenal’s current chief executive,<br />
Ivan Gazidis, and the general manager<br />
of Chicago Fire, Nelson Rodriguez, to give<br />
him a full-time job there. Over a decade on<br />
and Nakamura has now established himself<br />
as a key figure in both US and Japanese<br />
football. He believes it’s important that they<br />
keep learning from each other as there are<br />
many similarities between the leagues in the<br />
two countries.<br />
“Both the North American Soccer League<br />
(1968-84) and the J-League ran into trouble<br />
because they invested everything in big<br />
names and hoped that would be enough,”<br />
says Nakamura. “A coffee shop isn’t going<br />
thrive just because it has the best beans. You<br />
need to first lay the foundations. I think now<br />
when you look at football in America and Japan<br />
you can see that many clubs have done<br />
that. They both have fairly strong domestic<br />
divisions; however, Japan has room to grow<br />
in terms of its global strategy. That’s something<br />
that we at Blue United are determined<br />
to help improve.”<br />
To find out more about Blue United, visit<br />
www.blueutd.com/en.<br />
TOKYO WEEKENDER | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | 31
Dream<br />
Powder<br />
Words by Alec Jordan<br />
Born out of a “crazy ambition,” new company Material<br />
Matcha Uji is looking to breathe life into the country’s matcha<br />
industry, and take the high quality tea beyond Japan’s shores<br />
Creating high quality matcha<br />
(powdered green tea) is no easy<br />
task. It demands an encyclopedic<br />
knowledge of the land where the<br />
tea is grown, an understanding of<br />
the wide variety of tea plants and their individual<br />
characteristics, and a deep sense of the<br />
tradition of tea making itself, all coupled with<br />
the fine nose and palate of a true connoisseur.<br />
They’re not the qualities that you’d expect<br />
to find in a former trader in the derivatives<br />
market and an expert in machine translation<br />
and speech recognition algorithms, but<br />
Morgan Josset and Etienne Denoual are full of<br />
surprises. The two Frenchmen have recently<br />
launched the company Material Matcha Uji<br />
宇 治 (MMU for short),<br />
and have dedicated<br />
themselves to bringing<br />
a new level of<br />
matcha to customers<br />
overseas.<br />
Between<br />
the two of them,<br />
Josset and Denoual<br />
have some 25 years<br />
of experience in<br />
Japan. But as Josset<br />
explained, they’d<br />
spent almost all of<br />
it in the corporate<br />
world, and after<br />
a shared period<br />
of soul searching,<br />
they knew that they<br />
wanted to do something<br />
concrete, something tangible.<br />
They just weren’t quite sure what that<br />
something was until they visited a friend in<br />
Uji, a famed tea growing region just outside<br />
of Kyoto, who took them to the oldest tea<br />
house in the world, had them drink a superb<br />
matcha, and explained to them that the<br />
tradition behind the beverage that they had<br />
just enjoyed was in danger.<br />
High quality matcha usually doesn’t<br />
make it out of Japan, their friend explained,<br />
and the plants that are used to make it are<br />
rapidly being replaced by high-intensity,<br />
low-quality agricultural products. Furthermore,<br />
the average age of a Japanese tea<br />
farmer is about 65, and many of them are<br />
finding it increasingly difficult to find someone<br />
who is willing to follow in their footsteps.<br />
And it’s not easy work. The tea plants<br />
need to be shaded during part of the growing<br />
period in order to ensure that they are of<br />
the fullest flavor, and the exact timing of this<br />
process is the sort of thing that can only be<br />
learned from years of experience. For the finest<br />
flavored tea, only the first flush, or harvest<br />
of leaves are used. Many farmers are forced<br />
to base their entire year’s earnings – and their<br />
financial stability – on the harvest that they<br />
bring to market, usually in May.<br />
All of a sudden, Josset and Denoual’s<br />
purpose became clear: they would help in<br />
their own small way to breathe life into the<br />
matcha industry and bring high quality tea<br />
to customers outside of Japan. Throwing<br />
themselves into their quest, they would spend<br />
time with tea farmers learning about what it<br />
takes to bring a harvest together, refine their<br />
understanding of tea while spending time<br />
with master matcha blenders, and come to a<br />
deeper understanding of both the tea ceremony<br />
and Japanese business practices.<br />
As the first result of their labors, they<br />
have created three varieties of matcha, each<br />
with a unique flavor profile: MMU01, MMU02,<br />
and MMU03, all of which are on sale on the<br />
company’s website. But their project doesn’t<br />
just end with the creation of a product.<br />
They’ve launched a Kickstarter project to secure<br />
a year’s worth of tea leaf harvest, which<br />
will not only allow MMU to create a large<br />
amount of matcha, but assure the tea farmers’<br />
peace of mind, allowing them to focus on<br />
what they do best: growing high quality tea.<br />
Josset explains, the project is a product of<br />
crazy ambition, but launching the new business<br />
has pushed the two of them to reach new<br />
heights that they wouldn’t have imagined<br />
before: “With a lot of passion, will and work,<br />
you get to surpass yourself and do things that<br />
you thought were impossible. You have to<br />
listen to your dreams and believe in yourself.”<br />
To find out more about Material Matcha Uji<br />
宇 治 , go to materialmatcha.com.<br />
32 | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER
Yayoi Kusama, Flowering New York, 2005, silk screen on canvas, ©Yayoi Kusama<br />
DOTTY FOR YAYOI KUSAMA<br />
Probably the most exciting news in art circles this month is the launch of the Yayoi<br />
Kusama Museum: be prepared to immerse yourself in dots.<br />
TOKYO TOKYO WEEKENDER | | DECEMBER OCTOBER | MARCH <strong>2017</strong> 2016 | | 33
ART & THEATER<br />
“CREATION IS A SOLITARY PURSUIT, LOVE IS WHAT BRINGS YOU CLOSER TO ART”<br />
Fans of the work of Yayoi Kusama, rejoice: a museum dedicated to the artist’s work opened this month. Along with a store<br />
selling articles that feature Kusama’s well known polka dots and other visual hallmarks and a floor dedicated to large-scale<br />
installation pieces, the inaugural exhibition at the Yayoi Kusama Museum will highlight the artist’s latest series of paintings,<br />
“My Eternal Soul.” However, fans be warned: due to the museum’s popularity, tickets are sold two months in advance, and<br />
they sell out very quickly. Yayoi Kusama Museum Until February 25, 2018 yayoikusamamuseum.jp<br />
Yayoi Kusama, Pumpkins Screaming about Love Beyond Infinity, <strong>2017</strong>, mixed media, variable size, ©Yayoi Kusama<br />
THE ART WORLD<br />
OUR PICK OF THE CITY’S BEST EXHIBITIONS<br />
Compiled by Alec Jordan<br />
Metalwork, Kengo Takahashi, origin as a human, 2015<br />
AMAZING CRAFTSMANSHIP!<br />
– FROM MEIJI KOGEI TO<br />
CONTEMPORARY ART<br />
When it comes to craftsmanship, Japan<br />
exists on a plane of its own. Over the<br />
centuries, artisans who work with metal,<br />
wood, ceramics, and other materials have<br />
collectively refined their techniques and<br />
redefined the boundaries of the possible.<br />
This exhibition looks at the fine line<br />
between craft and fine art, with colorful<br />
examples of Meiji period objects drawn<br />
from a variety of different disciplines and<br />
meticulously crafted pieces of modern art<br />
that are made with a skill and an attention<br />
to detail that would have made artisans<br />
of generations proud. Mitsui Memorial<br />
Museum Until December 3<br />
www.mitsui-museum.jp/english/english.html<br />
34 | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER
German Von Bohn, The Death of Cleopatra, 1841, oil painting, Musee des<br />
Beaux-Arts, Nantes, France ©RMN-Grand Palais / Gérard Blot / distributed<br />
by AMF<br />
Portrait of Tadao Ando (Photo: Nobuyoshi Araki)<br />
FEAR IN PAINTING<br />
An exhibition that’s timed nicely for the spookiest time of year, this collection of<br />
paintings is inspired by a best-selling book, Kowai-e (Scary Paintings), which was<br />
penned by the art historian Kyoko Nakano. By and large, it’s a collection of modern<br />
European paintings and prints, which are arranged in thematic groupings such as<br />
myth, reality, and history. In some cases, the imagery of the works is enough to give<br />
you the shivers, while other pieces require a bit of a back story to send a chill up<br />
your spine. The Ueno Royal Museum Until December 17 www.kowaie.com<br />
T<br />
THEATER<br />
Held yearly, Festival/<strong>Tokyo</strong> is Japan’s<br />
leading performing arts festival<br />
and runs until November 12. The<br />
event hosts everything from outdoor<br />
performances to in-depth plays that<br />
probe pressing social issues. Here are<br />
three performances from the event that<br />
theater fans shouldn’t miss.<br />
CABARET<br />
CRUSADES<br />
Don’t let the<br />
fact that this is<br />
a puppet show<br />
fool you: this<br />
work uses the<br />
subject of the<br />
European military campaigns into the Holy Land<br />
centuries ago as a vehicle for understanding the<br />
tensions that are currently playing out in the Arab<br />
world today. Features a cast of traditional Arabic<br />
puppets, marionettes, and glass-blown models.<br />
GORILLA:<br />
WHAT IS<br />
HUMAN?<br />
Conceived by<br />
the theater<br />
group FAIFAI,<br />
this performance<br />
is filled<br />
with equal doses of humor and social consciousness.<br />
This work takes place at Ikebukuro Nishiguchi<br />
Park, and the star of the show is a man dressed<br />
in a gorilla suit, who is dancing to live music.<br />
Despite the seemingly silly setup, there’s more to<br />
the show than meets the eye, and must be seen to<br />
be understood.<br />
TADAO ANDO: ENDEAVORS<br />
Self-taught architect and former boxer Tadao Ando is a legend in the world of architecture,<br />
and his projects can be found around the world. Part of the 10th anniversary<br />
celebrations of The National Art Center, <strong>Tokyo</strong>, this exhibition gives visitors the<br />
opportunity to experience the imaginative power of this architectural heavyweight<br />
by looking at his early residential projects, his use of light and fascination with “void<br />
spaces,” some of his most ambitious creations, and many other facets of his work.<br />
Also on display will be a full-scale replica of Ando’s celebrated Church of the Light in<br />
Osaka. The National Art Center, <strong>Tokyo</strong> Until December 18 www.tadao-ando.com/<br />
exhibition<strong>2017</strong><br />
IN OUR<br />
DISTANCE,<br />
THERE IS<br />
NO SOR-<br />
ROW<br />
This work is actually<br />
two plays<br />
in one, which are performed simultaneously in<br />
adjacent theaters. Taking the events of 3/11 as<br />
a basis, the linked plays are a meditation on the<br />
mental divides brought about by distance. A special<br />
ticket is available that allows two people to<br />
see both plays at the same time, or one person<br />
to see the two plays at separate times.<br />
More information at www.festival-tokyo.jp/en<br />
Photo Credits: Cabaret Crusades, ©Wael Shawky; Courtesy<br />
the Artist and Lisson Gallery. Gorilla: What is Human? Photo:<br />
Kazuya Kato. In our distance, there is no sorrow, Photo:<br />
Hideaki Hamada, Ivy Chen<br />
TOKYO WEEKENDER | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | 35
1<br />
3<br />
2<br />
4<br />
7<br />
8<br />
5 6<br />
AGENDA: THE WEEKENDER ROUNDUP OF WHAT’S HAPPENING IN OCTOBER<br />
1<br />
OCT 28-29<br />
2<br />
OCT 8<br />
3<br />
OCT 21-22<br />
4<br />
OCT 26-31<br />
KAWASAKI HALLOWEEN<br />
PARADE<br />
One of Japan's most famous<br />
Halloween events with amazing<br />
costumes now features a<br />
Halloween Pride Parade.<br />
Where: Kawasaki Station<br />
How much: Free<br />
More info: tokyoweekender.com<br />
TAISHO JIDAI MATSURI<br />
Travel back in time to early 20th<br />
century Japan in this festival of<br />
costumes and nostalgic festival<br />
games.<br />
Where: Around Yono Station<br />
How much: Free<br />
More info: tokyoweekender.com<br />
TOKYO GRAND TEA<br />
CEREMONY <strong>2017</strong><br />
A variety of events, including<br />
tea ceremonies in English and<br />
traditional performances, will<br />
take place during the weekend's<br />
festivities.<br />
Where: Hamarikyu Gardens<br />
How much: ¥700<br />
More info: tokyoweekender.com<br />
TOKYO RAMEN SHOW<br />
Ramen shops from all over the<br />
country tout their wares. You'll find<br />
regional rarities as well as wellknown<br />
favorites here.<br />
Where: Komazawa Olympic Park<br />
How much: ¥850<br />
More info: www.ramenshow.com<br />
OCT 1-31<br />
SEA PARA HALLOWEEN<br />
Amusement park-meets-aquarium<br />
Sea Para pulls out all the stops with<br />
Halloween decorations, events,<br />
fireworks, and food.<br />
Where: Sea Paradise Hakkejima<br />
How much: ¥2,500-5,050<br />
More info: www.seaparadise.co.jp<br />
6 OCT 11-13<br />
OESHIKI FESTIVAL<br />
A festival of 10,000 lanterns<br />
commemorating the Nichiren<br />
Buddhist sect founder lights up the<br />
night at this famous temple.<br />
Where: Ikegami Honmonji<br />
How much: Free<br />
More info: tokyoweekender.com<br />
5 7<br />
OCT 27-31<br />
KANDA USED BOOK<br />
FESTIVAL<br />
Secondhand bookstores create<br />
a corridor of bookshelves on the<br />
sidewalk for this unique book<br />
lovers' event.<br />
Where: Jimbocho area<br />
How much: Free<br />
More info: jimbou.info<br />
8 OCT 28-31<br />
THE NUTCRACKER AND<br />
THE MOUSE KING<br />
The classic fairytale ballet loved by<br />
audiences all over the world tells<br />
the fantastical story of a girl and her<br />
nutcracker toy.<br />
Where: New National Theatre, <strong>Tokyo</strong><br />
How much: ¥3,240-¥12,960<br />
More info: nntt.jac.go.jp/english<br />
36 | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER
TOKYO WEEKENDER | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | 37
[ PROMOTION ]<br />
Six new cities, towns, and<br />
villages from around Japan<br />
take over the Tabisuru<br />
Shintora Market<br />
As the seasons change, so do the<br />
stands at <strong>Tokyo</strong>’s Tabisuru Shintora<br />
Market, an ongoing event<br />
just outside Toranomon Hills<br />
that promotes local regions<br />
from across Japan. This time, inspired by<br />
the theme "Craftsmanship nurtured by<br />
nature and gentle breezes," six regions<br />
showcase their specialties. Komono and<br />
Suzuka in Mie, Hioki in Kagoshima, and<br />
Awashimaura, Yahiko, and Izumozaki in<br />
Niigata will host the four stands. Each area<br />
is known for their abundance of natural<br />
resources and the crafts and foods that<br />
make the most of them. Here are our top<br />
recommendations of what to do at the<br />
market….<br />
travelers for over 1,300 years thanks to its<br />
onsen, clean water, clear air and great food.<br />
It is also home to Komono Banko ware, a<br />
type of pottery favored among tea ceremony<br />
practitioners for its elegant simplicity<br />
and light weight.<br />
SHOP FOR HANDMADE CRAFTS<br />
From Japan's southernmost main island<br />
to the icy winds of the west coast, the new<br />
tenants of the Tabisuru Shintora Market<br />
stands are a varied bunch:<br />
Stand 1 is home to Komono, located in<br />
Mie Prefecture. It has been popular with<br />
38 | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER
[ PROMOTION ]<br />
Stand 2 houses Hioki, a city on the west<br />
coast of Kagoshima, known as the birthplace<br />
of Satsuma pottery. Brought over from<br />
the Korean peninsula over 400 years ago, this<br />
craft is part of an industry known worldwide.<br />
Many craftsmen still use over 400-year-old<br />
kilns to fire their kama-style ceramics.<br />
Stand 3 belongs to Suzuka city, which has<br />
a long history of craftsmanship. Suzuka<br />
Sumi ink sticks are made from pine tree<br />
soot and oils and were first produced in the<br />
Heian period (710-784). These ink sticks are<br />
sought after by calligraphy artists nationwide.<br />
Today, only two artisans have inherited this<br />
traditional craft. Suzuka is also known for its<br />
Ise Katagami Stencil paper, which has over<br />
1,000 years of history behind it. The stencil<br />
is used to create designs for kimono dyeing.<br />
Planned patterns are painstakingly carved out<br />
of the paper, which requires the utmost skill<br />
and patience.<br />
Sharing Stand 4 are Awashimaura, Yahiko,<br />
and Izumozaki – all of which are in Niigata<br />
Prefecture. Awashimaura is a green and lush<br />
island, rich in natural resources despite its<br />
small size. Yahiko is home to Yahiko Shrine,<br />
a centuries-old pilgrimage destination and<br />
home to ancient Echigo (old Niigata) culture.<br />
Japan's largest chrysanthemum festival is held<br />
here every year in November. Izumozaki is<br />
as known for its fishing as it’s known for its<br />
waxed paper balloon making. The city boasts<br />
100 years in the paper balloon business and<br />
is the number one paper balloon purveyor in<br />
Japan. Together, these three areas represent<br />
Niigata's finest features of sea, mountains,<br />
and abundant greenery.<br />
SIP RARE SAKE<br />
As the evening breeze begins to cool, a sip of<br />
something stronger can help keep you warm.<br />
Find hard-to-get sake and shochu at the market<br />
stands from the various regions. Komono's<br />
Hayakawa Shuzo gives visitors a choice of<br />
three different Tabika sake so they can taste<br />
the difference between sake types within the<br />
same company. As Hioki is in shochu country,<br />
offers bargain sips of imo (sweet potato)<br />
shochu instead of sake. Seikai no Kaori has a<br />
rich and sweet flavor, while Haraguchi Shuzo<br />
offers a round, rich mouthfeel with earthy<br />
tones. Both come at an affordable ¥300 a<br />
glass. Suzuka's Zaku Ho no Tomo sake has<br />
received international recognition for its mellow<br />
and slightly sweet, but balanced flavor.<br />
Niigata touts its Koshi no Hakusetsu from<br />
Yahiko Shuzo, which is has a clear sharpness<br />
to it and is the brewery's standard. For those<br />
interested in purchasing sake by the bottle,<br />
the Tabisuru Store has a wide range of sake<br />
for all tastes.<br />
TASTE REGIONAL, SEASONAL NABE<br />
Just as every season has its own charm,<br />
every region has its own take on autumnal<br />
delicacies. As temperatures cool, the hotpots<br />
come out and, here, each region uses its own<br />
distinctive ingredients and cooking methods.<br />
Komono's souhei motsu nabe (literally priest<br />
soldier offal hot pot), contains a variety of<br />
local specialty meats and serves two to three<br />
people. Kagoshima prides itself on its black<br />
pork, chicken, and seafood – and Hinoki's<br />
barley miso nabe makes the most of these,<br />
creating a bowl of umami deliciousness.<br />
Suzuka's delightful take on shabu shabu<br />
features sakura pork and a delicious tea soup<br />
base (serves two to three people). For those<br />
wanting something a little bit heartier, the<br />
Niigata trio have come up with an omusubi<br />
lunchbox coupled with miso soup. Omusubi<br />
is another word for rice ball, but the verb<br />
musubu means to tie together or unite –<br />
which is what the dish does for these<br />
Niigata towns.<br />
WEAR SAMURAI ARMOR AT THE<br />
POP-UP MARKET<br />
In mid-<strong>October</strong>, there will be a special twoday<br />
event featuring fresh vegetables, crafts,<br />
and workshops. Visitors can wear samurai<br />
armor from Kagoshima, try their hand at<br />
making their own Ise katagami stencil paper,<br />
and write with Suzuka Sumi ink. It will be a<br />
rare chance to buy crafts from each of the regions,<br />
as well as sample vegetables and local<br />
dishes. This is a unique chance to get a true,<br />
in-depth experience of these regions.<br />
Oct 13, 3-8pm, Oct 14, 11am-5pm.<br />
TABISURU SHINTORA<br />
MARKET AUTUMN EDITION<br />
Market: Oct 4-Dec 27.<br />
Address: 2-16 Nishi-Shinbashi, Minato-ku.<br />
Web: www.tabisuru-market.jp<br />
TOKYO WEEKENDER | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | 39
Looking for your next job in Japan?<br />
<strong>Weekender</strong> has teamed up with<br />
Sunny Side Up Career and<br />
Coto Work to bring you<br />
the latest professional<br />
opportunities<br />
WEB ENGINEER<br />
A <strong>Tokyo</strong>-based IT company is looking for a Web Engineer to join<br />
their growing team. Engineers make up 40% of the company and<br />
they all work in-house. The company is proactive about using new<br />
technologies such as Scala, Node.js, Elixer and more. The main duties<br />
include development of digital marketing tools and new products.<br />
Requirements:<br />
- Java, JavaScript, Ruby, C#, Scala, Elixer<br />
- DB: MySQL, Oracle<br />
- OS: iOS, Windows<br />
- General development and operational experience in web services<br />
- Experience in programming or development of websites<br />
Location: Central <strong>Tokyo</strong><br />
Salary: Competitive (based on experience)<br />
TRANSLATION AND<br />
COMMUNICATIONS MANAGER<br />
Our company provides a member service that enables our<br />
members to get up-to-date information about automobile products,<br />
innovations and services. We are looking for a candidate to<br />
manage the content translation (Japanese to English), information<br />
updates and editing of our website. This position requires previous<br />
management experience to support and train a team of translators.<br />
Requirements:<br />
- Excel, Power Point, Office proficiency<br />
- Strong written English skills<br />
- Languages: native English and near native Japanese (N2/N1 level)<br />
Location: Central <strong>Tokyo</strong><br />
Salary: Competitive (based on experience)<br />
CREATIVE DESIGNER<br />
Triumph International is seeking a designer to deliver an ongoing<br />
collection of product designs, in line with seasonal trends, our<br />
global creative vision, and our design DNA principles. The ideal<br />
candidate will be a team player, be able to travel frequently, have<br />
strong communication skills, and possess exceptional consumer<br />
and competitor understanding. .<br />
Requirements:<br />
- 2/3+ years’ experience in intimate/apparel/fashion industries<br />
- Trend researching experience<br />
- Design tech packing experience<br />
- PLM system knowledge<br />
- Fashion market knowledge<br />
- CAD design skills: Photoshop/Illustrator<br />
- University degree<br />
- Languages: business-level English and Japanese<br />
Location: Triumph <strong>Tokyo</strong> office<br />
Salary: Competitive (based on experience)<br />
BRAND COMMUNICATION ASSISTANT<br />
Sloggi Japan is looking for a brand communication expert to lead and<br />
develop regional marketing programs. The role includes managing<br />
the advertising and promotion budget, assisting with studying and<br />
analyzing consumer trends, and activities such as digital marketing,<br />
brand communication, retail marketing, brand merchandising, and<br />
store design.<br />
Requirements:<br />
- 3+ years’ work experience<br />
- 3+ years’ brand or communication experience in apparel, retail, or<br />
related industries is preferred<br />
- Experience with products targeting age group 20s to 30s is<br />
preferable<br />
- Analysis and proposal creation experience<br />
- University degree<br />
- Language: Japanese and basic English<br />
Location: <strong>Tokyo</strong><br />
Salary: Competitive (based on experience<br />
To apply for these jobs and view more opportunities, visit<br />
40 | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER<br />
www.tokyoweekender.com/careers
LIFE LESSONS<br />
The latest news and views from two of <strong>Tokyo</strong>'s most prominent schools, and what<br />
we can learn from the Japanese custom of autumn moon viewing.<br />
TOKYO TOKYO WEEKENDER | | DECEMBER OCTOBER | MARCH <strong>2017</strong> 2016 | | 41
ONLY THE<br />
BEST WILL DO<br />
HOW THE BRITISH SCHOOL IN TOKYO<br />
NURTURES ITS STUDENTS TO ENSURE<br />
THE BRIGHTEST FUTURE<br />
The British School in <strong>Tokyo</strong> has enjoyed<br />
an enviable reputation for the provision<br />
of high quality education since<br />
first opening its doors in the heart of<br />
the city in 1989. Almost without exception,<br />
we recruit our teachers from the best schools<br />
in the UK or from other highly rated British<br />
international schools around the world.<br />
Uniquely, because we know that finding the<br />
right people is crucial to our future (and to<br />
that of our students) we insist on seeing each<br />
one of them teach in their own schools before<br />
confirming any appointment. Only the best<br />
will do.<br />
The recent acquisition of additional<br />
space and the completion of major refurbishment<br />
work on our Showa<br />
campus has extended our learning<br />
facilities and accommodated<br />
the introduction of a range<br />
of exciting new A Level study<br />
options, including Computer Science,<br />
Economics, Photography<br />
and Theatre Studies.<br />
Following the achievements<br />
of last year’s graduates and their<br />
YOUNG PEOPLE<br />
TODAY SEE<br />
THEMSELVES<br />
AS GLOBAL<br />
CITIZENS<br />
success in winning acceptance at some of the<br />
top universities around the world, the Class<br />
of <strong>2017</strong> were keen to emulate their predecessors<br />
and this year’s group has certainly set<br />
the bar high for those who will follow them.<br />
Remarkably, 45% of all entries were graded<br />
A*/A, and over 70% were awarded a B grade<br />
or better. These results are well above the UK<br />
national average, where just 26% of entries<br />
attained the top two grades. It is no surprise<br />
then to see so many of our students being<br />
offered places on extremely competitive<br />
degree courses at prestigious UK Russell<br />
Group universities, including Cambridge,<br />
Edinburgh, Imperial and UCL. In keeping<br />
with our international outlook, BST students<br />
will also be taking up places<br />
at universities as far afield as<br />
Canada, the Netherlands and<br />
the USA and, closer to home, at<br />
Keio University here in Japan.<br />
The success of our oldest<br />
students in recent years has led<br />
to a dramatic increase in applications<br />
from ambitious young<br />
men and women of all nationalities<br />
who are keen to give themselves<br />
the best chance of going<br />
on to study at the university of<br />
their choice. Young people today see themselves<br />
as global citizens and they recognise<br />
that UK A levels offer an academic passport<br />
that can take them almost anywhere. Most<br />
universities worldwide are very familiar<br />
with Britain’s public examination system and<br />
are more than happy to accept students with<br />
A levels or their equivalent.<br />
Of course, there is much more to life<br />
at BST than preparation for examinations.<br />
While parents are impressed by the academic<br />
rigour and structured progression of our<br />
particular brand of British education, students<br />
here learn so much more than how to<br />
achieve top grades. Sport, music and drama<br />
are woven into the fabric of school life from<br />
the very start, and both community service<br />
and adventurous activity are real strengths.<br />
We firmly believe that real education<br />
should extend well beyond the four walls<br />
of the classroom and we recognise that in<br />
today’s world so-called “soft skills” are every<br />
bit as important as paper qualifications. BST<br />
students are encouraged to explore and to<br />
take risks, to express their opinions and to<br />
listen to the ideas of others, to discover the<br />
joy of exceeding even their own expectations<br />
of themselves. From their early years in our<br />
Nursery and Reception classes, our children<br />
are given countless opportunities to develop<br />
the independence and resilience that will<br />
enable them to take the next step in their education<br />
– wherever it might take them – with<br />
confidence and a smile.<br />
To find out more about joining The British<br />
School in <strong>Tokyo</strong>, please contact our experienced<br />
admissions team via admissions@bst.ac.jp<br />
BST IN NUMBERS<br />
There's no doubt that all good schools are<br />
built on the vision, commitment and talent<br />
of good people. Here’s a quick snapshot of<br />
The British School in <strong>Tokyo</strong>'s impressive<br />
resumé…<br />
28<br />
1,050<br />
The number of years BST has been<br />
open in <strong>Tokyo</strong>.<br />
The number of students at<br />
BST. Growth has been so<br />
steady that the school now has two sites,<br />
one in Shibuya and another in Sangenjaya.<br />
3 to 18<br />
60<br />
The wide age range of<br />
students.<br />
The number of different nationalities<br />
represented at BST.<br />
42 | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER
EXPERIENCES THAT<br />
LAST A LIFETIME<br />
TEACHING KIDS TO BECOME PART<br />
OF A COMMUNITY OF DIVERSITY<br />
IS ALL IN A DAY’S WORK FOR<br />
AOBA-JAPAN EXTENSION<br />
Aoba-Japan's Expansion (AJE) program,<br />
initially featuring only camps, expanded<br />
in April this year to include<br />
continuing programs. These classes<br />
take place on Saturdays and weekday evenings<br />
and are open to the public. Their popularity has<br />
skyrocketed over the past few months as AJE is<br />
working to meet demand.<br />
AJE's first continuing program, “Action Saturdays,"<br />
began at the school's Waseda campus<br />
this past April. Their plan is to open in two or<br />
more new locations in central <strong>Tokyo</strong> by April<br />
2018. AJE Director Greg Culos explains further,<br />
“Our Saturday and evening programs are based<br />
on the same philosophies and approaches as our<br />
camp programs. They have proven so successful<br />
that we're expanding rapidly. We realized there<br />
THERE ARE MANY PEOPLE<br />
WHO MAY NOT NECESSARILY<br />
WANT THEIR KIDS TO GO TO<br />
AN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL,<br />
BUT DO WANT THEM TO GROW<br />
UP IN AN INTERNATIONAL<br />
ENVIRONMENT<br />
SIGN UP FOR AJE'S<br />
WINTER DISCOVERY<br />
CAMP 2018<br />
AJE's next Winter Discovery<br />
Camp will be held in Iwate, over<br />
five days from January 2 to<br />
January 6, 2018<br />
P<br />
articipants will get the chance to<br />
immerse themselves in Tohoku's<br />
rich culture of old and new, as<br />
well as rediscover winter through a<br />
number of unique activities, including<br />
staying overnight in a Mongolian<br />
Ger, learning curling from Olympians,<br />
bathing in a barrel onsen, and<br />
riding a kotatsu train along the coast.<br />
Other activities include skiing, and<br />
making mochi and soba with locals<br />
from Iwate.<br />
It's a fantastic opportunity for<br />
young people to communicate with<br />
people from all over the world and to<br />
become part of a community of diversity.<br />
On a more serious note, children<br />
will also learn about the 2011 Great<br />
Tohoku Earthquake directly from the<br />
people most affected by the disaster.<br />
For more information and to sign up<br />
for AJE’s Winter Discovery Camp 2018,<br />
visit www.campsinjapan.com<br />
are many people who may not necessarily<br />
want their kids to go to an international<br />
school, but do want them to grow up in an<br />
international environment."<br />
When asked about the differing English<br />
levels of students in one class, Culos<br />
emphasizes that successful learning is<br />
a factor of encouragement and inclusivity.<br />
Though kids with similar abilities are generally<br />
grouped together, AJE does sometimes<br />
mix it up a little. The reason for this, in part,<br />
is that the children can teach and learn<br />
from each other. There is no "English only"<br />
policy since Culos believes restrictions are<br />
counterproductive to learning. Instead, he<br />
believes children learn more when allowed<br />
to process new information naturally. “Usually<br />
kids who switch to their native language<br />
are asking for confirmation and making sure<br />
they understand. They're not talking about<br />
unrelated things," Culos says.<br />
The Mommy and Me Saturday class has<br />
proven especially popular and gives parents<br />
a chance to learn, too. Greg Culos says,<br />
“The parents get right into it. It's a lot of<br />
fun and effective too. When these toddlers<br />
move up to higher level classes, the transitions<br />
become easier since they have begun<br />
to develop the mindsets key to independent<br />
learning and collaboration."<br />
The goal for both camps and continuing<br />
programs alike is to create an environment<br />
where children can feel excited about<br />
learning and confident to use their new<br />
skills to help them grow.<br />
TOKYO WEEKENDER | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | 43
The Moon<br />
and Beyond<br />
First on the scene was a monkey, curious to<br />
Brian Christian reflects<br />
find out where this strange old beggar had<br />
sprung from, closely followed by an equally<br />
on the Japanese custom of inquisitive fox and a rather nervous rabbit<br />
autumn moon viewing<br />
(most rabbits are nervous when there’s a fox<br />
about).<br />
“Please help me,” begged the old man.<br />
“I’m starving. Is there any food to be found<br />
round here?” To be honest he was putting<br />
it on a bit but, as any guest in this country<br />
learns very quickly, there is no more distressing<br />
sight to a Japanese host than a hungry<br />
visitor. The monkey immediately dashed off<br />
through the trees and soon returned with an<br />
armful of looted fruit and the wily fox was<br />
just as quick to snaffle a fine fish from a nearby<br />
stream.<br />
The people of Japan have an intriguing<br />
affinity with the natural world.<br />
Perhaps an acute awareness of<br />
Mother Nature’s potential for savage<br />
violence encourages an appreciation<br />
of her more forgiving moods. Whatever the<br />
reason, this is a country where the everyday<br />
wonders of the fields, forests and mountains,<br />
and of the changing seasons are often a cause<br />
for celebration. Think of the springtime hanami<br />
parties to welcome the cherry blossom<br />
and later in the year, as the temperatures<br />
fall and the leaves begin to turn, all those<br />
weekend pilgrimages to marvel at the reds<br />
and golds of autumn.<br />
The Japanese fascination with sakura<br />
and koyo is well known but at this time of<br />
year another long-established custom comes<br />
to the fore. Tsukimi or “moon-gazing” may<br />
be associated with occasional special lunar<br />
events but in this country we don’t have to<br />
wait for an eclipse to turn our attention to<br />
our extra-terrestrial neighbour. A full moon<br />
in any month is worthy of our appreciation<br />
and at this time of the year the Harvest Moon<br />
is always a special cause for celebration. Children<br />
all over Japan will enjoy eating sweet<br />
tsukimi dango (white rice dumplings) and<br />
singing their jugoya songs to the rabbit in the<br />
moon. That’s right, the rabbit in the moon.<br />
Once upon a long time ago, so the story<br />
goes, the old man of the moon crossed the<br />
sky to explore the big blue world below.<br />
The journey was long and tiring – he was a<br />
very old man after all – and when he finally<br />
arrived he was famished and desperately in<br />
need of sustenance. Luckily for him, he had<br />
made landfall in Japan where they happen<br />
to know a thing or two about hospitality and<br />
good food, so help was not long in coming.<br />
CHILDREN ALL OVER<br />
JAPAN WILL ENJOY<br />
EATING TSUKIMI DANGO<br />
AND SINGING THEIR<br />
JUGOYA SONGS TO THE<br />
RABBIT IN THE MOON<br />
The rabbit however, though just as eager to<br />
please, could only hop round and round in a<br />
state of bewildered panic: “What can I give<br />
him? He can’t eat grass, the owl café isn’t<br />
open yet and the nearest vegetable patch is<br />
miles away…” Eventually, he came up with a<br />
not-so-bright and rather macabre, idea: “Dear<br />
old fellow,” he said. “A persimmon or two and<br />
a few slices of fresh sashimi are all very well<br />
but you need something more substantial to<br />
warm you up. If you could light a fire, I would<br />
be honoured to provide you with a tasty roasted<br />
rabbit.”<br />
Now if this had been just any hungry traveller<br />
the story might have had a very different<br />
ending but it all worked out well in the end.<br />
Surprised and strangely moved by the suicidal<br />
generosity of his new-found furry friend,<br />
instead of reaching for a box of matches and<br />
his chopsticks, the grateful old man gathered<br />
him up in his arms and flew back home to the<br />
moon where, as every Japanese child knows,<br />
they both lived happily ever after – as enthusiastic<br />
vegetarians.<br />
This year the Harvest Moon rises on <strong>October</strong><br />
4 in the Japanese micro-season (there are<br />
72 of them!) of mizu hajimete karuru (when<br />
farmers drain the fields). It won’t quite be<br />
a full moon – that comes two days later on<br />
the sixth – but the rabbit will still be clearly<br />
visible to anyone who chooses to look heavenwards<br />
and as the children sing their songs<br />
many adults will raise a cup of sake and give<br />
thanks for nature’s bounty.<br />
It seems to me that a folk-tale about<br />
generosity and selflessness and kindness<br />
to strangers is one worth thinking about in<br />
these uncertain times. Too often our daily<br />
news is dominated by stories of blind nationalism,<br />
narrow self-interest and a blatant<br />
disregard for the needs of our neighbours<br />
or of the generations to come. It may be no<br />
more than a child’s fairy-story but perhaps<br />
we should all look up at the moon tonight and<br />
remember the rabbit…<br />
Usagi usagi<br />
Nani mite haneru<br />
Juugoya o-tsuki-sama<br />
Mite haneru<br />
(Oh, rabbit on the moon,<br />
What are you leaping for?<br />
I shall leap, I shall leap soon<br />
At the large full moon!)<br />
Brian Christian is the Principal of the British<br />
School in <strong>Tokyo</strong>.<br />
44 | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER<br />
TOKYO WEEKENDER | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | 44
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TOKYO WEEKENDER | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | 45
Society<br />
TOKYO’S LONGEST RUNNING SOCIAL COLUMN WITH BILL HERSEY<br />
Exile’s Iwata Takanori and director Christopher Nolan at<br />
Warner Brothers’ press conference for Dunkirk<br />
Maybe I’m wrong but looking back it seems August<br />
even with the heat was busier than ever, and from<br />
the looks of happenings coming up, <strong>October</strong> and the<br />
rest of <strong>2017</strong> will be even busier. That’s the way I and<br />
I know many of you like it.<br />
I’m so happy the Japanese seem to be getting back into the Broadway<br />
show and international musical scene. I really enjoyed the international<br />
production of one of my all-time favorite musicals, West<br />
Side Story, this summer. If you’re into Broadway, ballet, and showbiz<br />
you have a lot of things to choose from this fall and winter. I can’t list<br />
them all here, but will list a few I’ve<br />
seen and really enjoyed. The Argentine<br />
show Fuerza Bruta is back with<br />
an exciting new production titled<br />
Beyond the Next Level, which runs<br />
through December 10. I saw it two<br />
years ago, and like Cirque du Soleil,<br />
it really is mind-boggling. My French<br />
Canadian friend Guy Laliberté who,<br />
along with another street performer,<br />
created the always sold out Cirque<br />
du Soleil shows, is bringing one in<br />
that I hadn’t heard of. It’s titled Kurios:<br />
Cabinet of Curiosities and it will<br />
run from February 7 until April 8<br />
next year at Odaiba Big Top. I was<br />
surprised to see that there’s a Japanese<br />
version of the off-Broadway<br />
play Hedwig and the Angry Inch. The<br />
off-the-wall production is being promoted<br />
as a special show and will just<br />
have two days of performances in<br />
<strong>Tokyo</strong> on <strong>October</strong> 14 and 15, and one<br />
in Osaka on <strong>October</strong> 17. If you see it<br />
you’ll understand why they label it<br />
very special.<br />
I’ve seen the off-Broadway award<br />
winner Blast endless times and had<br />
many parties for their cast over the<br />
years in Roppongi. The show is an<br />
exciting combo of percussion instruments,<br />
dance and endless energy. I went to their last show in <strong>Tokyo</strong><br />
before they toured all over Japan. Since I last saw the show years ago,<br />
the producers have tied up with Disney. This, of course, means money,<br />
and the talent, the sets, and the choreography add up to a real winner.<br />
The 2,000 seats at Shibuya’s ORB Theatre were sold out, and the show<br />
got several standing ovations. I just learned that ORB is bringing in<br />
a production of another of my favorites, Evita, for their fifth anniversary<br />
early next year. There’ll also be a Japanese co-production of<br />
the Rocky Horror Picture Show at Zepp Theater 11/7–11/12, and Parco<br />
11/16–12/3.<br />
Thanks to Junko Koshino. I had the privilege of seeing the latest<br />
Drum Tao show before they went to Paris and Singapore. The awesome<br />
drumming, the shamisen and koto playing, the choreography,<br />
the high-tech stage sets, and Junko’s costumes added up to entertainment<br />
at its very best. After the show I met a host of interesting people<br />
at a party Junko and her husband Hiroyuki Suzuki hosted at Vanity,<br />
a popular club in Roppongi. These included the new French Ambassador<br />
Laurent Pic, Mikawa Kenichi, and actor Tatsumi Takuro. Mikawa-san<br />
will be performing at Dewi Sukarno’s 20th Annual Imperial<br />
Banquet at Meguro Gajoen on <strong>October</strong> 14. The Tao drummers will be<br />
back in <strong>Tokyo</strong> by then and they have shows at the Shinagawa Prince<br />
Hotel from September 16 to <strong>October</strong> 29.<br />
As they say, “there’s no business like show business,” but I feel that<br />
there’s probably been enough of it in this month's column. It’s time to<br />
move onto the social scene...<br />
WARNER BROTHERS<br />
PRESS CONFERENCE FOR<br />
CHRISTOPHER NOLAN<br />
The big Academy Hills room on the<br />
49th floor of the Mori Tower was wallto-wall<br />
enthusiastic journalists, as the<br />
special guest that day was Christopher<br />
Nolan whose film Dunkirk has been a<br />
huge box office hit wherever it’s been<br />
shown. The crowd’s feeling about the<br />
film and Christopher was great, and<br />
I appreciated the way he handled all<br />
the questions. As he explained a few<br />
times, “We interviewed men who had<br />
actually been there.” He wanted to<br />
create suspense and the idea of survival,<br />
and he wanted the film to have<br />
the power to shock. In order to appeal<br />
to young people, he visited drama<br />
schools and looked to use acting students<br />
who hadn’t been in films before.<br />
As a director, he feels like an architect<br />
or conductor (he really likes to work<br />
with sounds) who is bringing many<br />
different elements together.<br />
Warner Brothers had brought<br />
in Exile’s star member Iwata Takanori<br />
as a guest for the second half of the<br />
conference. It was a good choice as the<br />
actor-musician is a big fan of Nolan, and so knew what he was talking<br />
about. At the end of the interview, he was really happy when Nolan presented<br />
him with an autographed copy of the Dunkirk screenplay. Don’t<br />
miss this film – and try to see it in an IMAX theater.<br />
FORSYTH’S PERUVIAN NATIONAL<br />
DAY AT WESTIN HOTEL<br />
Peruvian Ambassador Harold W. Forsyth and his wife Veronica were<br />
only here a short time before they hosted the reception to celebrate<br />
the 196th anniversary of Peru’s Independence Day. For the event,<br />
they chose the elegant Kaede Room in the European-influenced Westin<br />
Hotel. It was packed with people and I was surprised at the number<br />
of VIPs whom I thought were out of Japan for the holidays but<br />
were there that evening. Familiar faces in the crowd included top<br />
46 | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER
JAMAICA NATIONAL DAY<br />
AT THE OKURA<br />
1. Jamaican Amb. Clement Allicock and<br />
guest speaker Shunsuke Takei 2. Amb.<br />
Allicock, Takei-san, Ota Mayor Tadayoshi<br />
Matsubara, Material Co. Pres. Junichi<br />
Hosogai (Sponsor of Jamaica Bobsled<br />
Team) 3. Victoria Allicock, Amb. and Mrs.<br />
Allicock, Nicaraguan Amb. Saul Arana 4.<br />
Kyoko Spector and Liberian Amb. Yongor<br />
Telewoda 5. Kyoko with Monique Dehaney<br />
(left) and Jhana Graham (right)<br />
1<br />
2<br />
3<br />
4<br />
5<br />
7<br />
6<br />
8<br />
9<br />
11<br />
10<br />
WINE NIGHT<br />
– OAKWOOD<br />
PREMIERE<br />
6. Hiroku Sakura,<br />
showbiz agent Keisuke<br />
Yasuda, Oakwood’s Amy<br />
Hanashiro<br />
7. Oakwood’s man in<br />
Japan, Martin Fluck,<br />
James Moynihan,<br />
architect Seiji Sato<br />
8. Oakwood’s staff<br />
members: Kenta, Akbar,<br />
and Ayaka<br />
12<br />
13<br />
JUNKO KOSHINO PARTY<br />
– TAO & VANITY<br />
9. Takarazuka girl/TV star Miki<br />
Maya, designer Junko Koshino, and<br />
Tao drummers 10. Actor Tatsumi<br />
Takuro, his daughter soprano opera<br />
singer Marie, and one of Marie’s<br />
fans 11. Akihiko Kanamaru, Junko,<br />
retired military general Toshiya<br />
Okabe, Junko’s photographer husband<br />
Hiroyuki Suzuki 12. Junko, former<br />
Japan Amb. to France Saito-san,<br />
popular singer and showbiz celeb<br />
Mikawa Kenichi 13. French Amb.<br />
Laurent Pic, a Tao star, Azerbaijan<br />
Amb. Gursel Ismayilzade<br />
TOKYO WEEKENDER | | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | 47
FORSYTH’S PERUVIAN<br />
NATIONAL DAY<br />
AT WESTIN HOTEL<br />
1. Our new Peruvian Amb. Harold Forsyth,<br />
his wife Veronica, and politician Hirotaka<br />
Ishihara 2. Hisanaga and Takako Shimazu<br />
congratulate the hosting couple 3. El<br />
Salvador Amb. Martha Zelayandia and<br />
Israel Amb. Ruth Kahanoff 4. Members<br />
of the Metropolitan police force 5. Kyoko<br />
Spector and Croatian Amb. Drazea Hrastic 6.<br />
Moldovan Amb. and Mrs. Vasile Bumacov<br />
1<br />
2<br />
7<br />
3<br />
4<br />
5<br />
9<br />
6<br />
8<br />
11<br />
10<br />
12<br />
NATIONAL AZABU<br />
BARBECUE<br />
7. Mexican counsellor Armando<br />
Arriaga, his wife Serok, their daughter<br />
Antonia 8. Nomura Securities’ Gary<br />
Hyman, his wife Efrot 9. Healthy <strong>Tokyo</strong>’s<br />
Michael Bobrove with staff member<br />
Aki Asama (left) and project manager<br />
David Israelsson (right) 10. Akari<br />
Yamamoto, her daughters, Momoe and<br />
Anri 11. Tohokushinsha Pres. Tetsu<br />
Uemura, Fuji TV & Fuji Holdings Pres.<br />
and Mrs. Masaki Miyauchi 12. Tetsu,<br />
Nisshin Noodles Pres. Tohru and Mrs.<br />
Horinouchi, Armando<br />
48 | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER
lawyer Toshihiro Matsumaru. It was, as always, wonderful talking<br />
with Hisanaga and (sister of the emperor) Takako Shimazu as well as<br />
Kazuko Ito, the new president of Soka Gakkai’s Min-On Concert Association,<br />
and Hirotaka Ishihara, son of the former governor of <strong>Tokyo</strong><br />
and Diet Member. If you’re into ethnic food, as I am, you'll know that<br />
Peruvian food has recently gained international popularity – and the<br />
Peruvian Embassy and Westin worked together on a bountiful, beautiful,<br />
delicious, and healthy buffet of Peruvian specialties. Healthaddict<br />
friends have introduced me to goji berries from China, chia<br />
seeds, and the grain quinoa which was used in a delicious Peruvian<br />
dessert that night. The hosting couple, Ambassador and Señora<br />
Forsyth, are a very international, sophisticated, outgoing couple. I’m<br />
sure they’ll like Japan, and Japan will like them. Our congratulations<br />
on their super celebration, and we wish them a long, happy, and successful<br />
posting here.<br />
JAMAICA 55TH ANNIVERSARY<br />
RECEPTION AT THE OKURA<br />
Jamaican Ambassador Clement Allicock, his wife Suzanne, and their<br />
family and staff hosted a reception at the Okura Hotel. The occasion<br />
was to celebrate Jamaica’s Independence Day. Thanks to Bob Marley’s<br />
music, the fastest man in the world Usain Bolt, the Jamaican bobsled<br />
team, the people of Jamaica, and their laid-back way of life, it’s a very<br />
popular country in Japan, especially with the younger generation. As<br />
you can see from the photos, they’re good-looking people and appreciate<br />
chic fashion. They’re also very talented, and I was thrilled to see<br />
two professional singers who know how to belt out pop music. One of<br />
them, Jhana Graham, opened the program with her renditions of the<br />
Jamaican and Japanese anthems. The other, Monique Dehaney, didn’t<br />
sing at the reception, but I’ve seen her perform before, and believe me<br />
she’s excellent.<br />
Ambassador Allicock is a great speaker and he had plenty of interesting<br />
things to say about his country in his welcome speech. I was also<br />
impressed with the Vice Minister of Foreign Affairs Shunsuke Takei’s<br />
speech and toast. The buffet was first class with a variety of healthy<br />
salads, great curry, and of course, Jamaica’s famous jerk chicken.<br />
Ambassador Allicock is super busy with all kinds of colorful promos,<br />
and interesting people. These, of course, included a lot of cheering<br />
for Bolt who ran the day after the celebration. I had the pleasure of<br />
meeting and talking with the sports legend a couple of years ago when<br />
he was with former Jamaican Ambassador Claudia Barnes when she<br />
was posted here.<br />
Hopefully we’ll continue to see a lot of him in the ad campaigns he<br />
does for ANA and Nissan. I’m sure that like another Jamaican legend –<br />
musician Bob Marley – he will continue to be a star as well. I enjoyed<br />
talking with Takei, the young and dynamic Japanese politician, as well<br />
as Junichi Hosogai, who’s one of the sponsors of the Jamaican bobsled<br />
team. Our congratulations on all the Jamaican events to celebrate<br />
many things Jamaican.<br />
NATIONAL AZABU CUSTOMER<br />
APPRECIATION BARBECUE<br />
One of the many special things that National Azabu does to get<br />
involved in the community is their popular barbecues. These are<br />
complimentary for VIP customers and are held in the supermarket’s<br />
parking lot several times a year. Mother Nature was kind on<br />
Sunday, September 10, and it was a beautiful day for the afternoon/<br />
evening event and was crowded with a variety of guests. Healthy<br />
<strong>Tokyo</strong> had a booth and was giving out samples of energy bars, and<br />
Matcha Miracle Drink and Honest Bee staff kept busy explaining<br />
their grocery delivery services. Great food included Benito’s<br />
paella, barbecued steak, super sandwiches, and a salad bar. Kids<br />
had plenty to do with micro-scooters, catching noodles from a<br />
long bamboo shoot (nagashi somen), and trying games of chance.<br />
Entertainment included music by a New Orleans-style band, several<br />
vocalists, and a clown. For those looking for luxury, there was a<br />
beautiful Lamborghini on display. The party ended with several<br />
chefs working on a 60kg tuna – and there was delicious sashimi for<br />
everyone. It was a great get-together in every way. Congratulations<br />
to the Uemura family, the owners of National Azabu, and all of<br />
the great staff. And if you want to check a really great Halloween<br />
display that’s full of spooky good fun for kids and adults alike, drop<br />
by at National Azabu. They’ve gone all out this year.<br />
THIS & THAT<br />
<strong>October</strong> comes to an end with Halloween, which has become a major<br />
celebration here in <strong>Tokyo</strong> and beyond. But how did a custom<br />
brought to America by Irish immigrants get to Omotesando? The story<br />
goes back to the late 1970s, when one of the big American donut<br />
chains ran a Halloween promotion, giving a saucer decorated with<br />
trick-or-treaters to anyone who bought a dozen donuts. The chain’s<br />
Japanese stores had the same promotion, but had to come up with<br />
some explanation. So, Halloween was billed as a day to buy and eat<br />
donuts. And that's what it was for several years until marketers saw<br />
the possibility of expanding beyond donuts to candy, costumes and<br />
decorations. Now, Halloween is on its way to joining Christmas as a<br />
major Japanese commercial and social event. Keep an eye out for the<br />
Easter Bunny, who is likely to hop up soon to join Santa Claus and<br />
Jack-o’-Lantern.<br />
This year, <strong>October</strong> 31 has extra significance. It is the 500th anniversary<br />
of the Reformation, which is being commemorated worldwide<br />
not only by Protestants, but even by Catholics and people with<br />
no connection to those religions. Because Japan is so close to the International<br />
Date Line, among the world’s first events to mark the day<br />
will be here in <strong>Tokyo</strong>, when Maestro Robert Rÿker of the <strong>Tokyo</strong> Sinfonia<br />
will lead some 250 artists in a performance of Brahms’ German<br />
Requiem at the <strong>Tokyo</strong> Metropolitan Theater. Visit www.r500.co for<br />
information and tickets.<br />
Father Grimm, Bill, Bill Ireton, Shiga, and Dale Toriumi<br />
gathered to celebrate Bill’s birthday<br />
Marty Kuehnert, Horst, Hiroshi, and baseball great<br />
Randy Bass at the Ex<br />
Charo, Bill, Roberta, and Matthew Ireton with Keanu<br />
Reeves and Chad Stahelski, who were in <strong>Tokyo</strong><br />
recently to promote John Wick 2<br />
TOKYO WEEKENDER | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | 49
[ PROMOTION ]<br />
Whether you’re just visiting Japan or<br />
you’ve been here for a while, here are<br />
a few tips that will help you on your<br />
travels in <strong>Tokyo</strong> and beyond<br />
GET TO GRIPS WITH THE<br />
NO-NAME STREETS<br />
Trying to figure out a<br />
Japanese address? It starts<br />
with prefecture, then the<br />
city or the ward, and then<br />
the neighborhood. After<br />
this, the subdivisions are<br />
districts, blocks, and building<br />
numbers. Districts and blocks<br />
are usually numbered by how<br />
close they are to the center<br />
of a neighborhood or ward.<br />
Finally the building number<br />
comes next. This number is<br />
assigned either in clockwise<br />
order around a block, or according<br />
to the order in which<br />
the buildings were built.<br />
Confused yet? Don’t worry,<br />
you’re not alone.<br />
CHARGE A CARD<br />
Buy a Suica or Pasmo card as soon as you can. It’ll<br />
save you money, it’s easy to charge, and it’ll get you<br />
through the turnstiles faster. Now, more and more<br />
cities will let you use a Suica or Pasmo card on their<br />
public transportation. You can buy them at any<br />
train station, and all machines offer English service.<br />
APP IT UP<br />
For good information about<br />
locations and directions<br />
in Japan, Google Maps<br />
still beats out Apple Maps<br />
if you’re on an iPhone. If<br />
you really want detailed<br />
information about train<br />
and bus routes while you’re<br />
traveling, apps like and<br />
Hyperdia and Navitime are<br />
your best bet.<br />
DON'T DISMISS THE BUSES<br />
Limousine buses take you to and from<br />
the airports, are cheaper than trains, and<br />
go directly to some hotels. Even if you’re<br />
not staying at one of the larger hotels,<br />
they can get you closer to where you<br />
need to go, without having to lug bags<br />
through crowded train stations. You can<br />
get information about bus lines at the<br />
arrivals terminal at Narita and Haneda.<br />
SHIP IT<br />
If you’re getting loaded down with souvenirs or<br />
have an extra bag you won’t need until you’re back<br />
at the airport, Japanese companies like Yamato<br />
offer a great service: you can just ship your bags or<br />
packages to hotels or to the airport. You’ll need to<br />
plan ahead though, as it can take a day or two for<br />
your package to arrive. You can find out more about<br />
Yamato TA-Q-BIN service at www.kuronekoyamato.<br />
co.jp/en/tourist/.<br />
PICK UP MOBILE WIFI<br />
No matter where your travels take you, you don’t<br />
want to miss out on uploading your pictures and<br />
posts, finding your way around, and staying in<br />
touch with your friends while you’re on the go.<br />
With Pocket WiFi from SoftBank offered through<br />
Global Mobile, you can be online all the time,<br />
with blazing fast LTE. Service is available for as<br />
little as ¥200 a day. For more details, visit<br />
www.gmobile.biz/softbank/inbound.<br />
50 | OCTOBER <strong>2017</strong> | TOKYO WEEKENDER
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Live in a Home for Life. The Parkhouse