TIGI The new normal AS GENDER NORMS CONTINUE TO BE CHALLENGED AND SALONS EMBRACE THE OPPORTUNITIES THAT BRINGS, IS HAIR COLOUR FOR MEN ABOUT TO BREAK THROUGH? 42 <strong>Colour</strong> <strong>Forecast</strong>
FIRST THERE WAS MAN, then there was man and his beard. Now there’s man and his hair colour. The trend for facial fuzz suddenly made it acceptable for men to talk openly about their grooming habits, visit salons and buy beauty products – it was only a matter of time before men’s hair colour became the next topic of conversation and opportunity for salons. “With beards a thing of the past, I think men’s colour will be the next step in male grooming,” says Kal McCulloch, colour technician at Dickson Reid. “I’ve seen a gradual increase in male clients and I think it’s due to men becoming more comfortable talking about colour.” But while men might be more receptive to colouring their hair, they’re still more likely to do it at home than in the salon, despite the negative ‘Lego hair’ connotations. However, a third of men who have used hair colour at home in the past 12 months have used a new colour technique, compared with just five per cent of women, according to Mintel. So how can salons capitalise on their more adventurous potential new clients? “Many men are still unaware of the possibilities available within the world of colour, therefore, it is important for the stylist to bring the subject up during a hair appointment and introduce them to a colour technician who can go into more detail,” says Tai Walker, colour director at Mahogany Hairdressing. With 75 per cent of men worrying about going grey, according to Mintel, how to cover it is an obvious place to start when considering how to get men into colour. “I certainly don’t have men requesting full blanket coverage of grey anymore. Instead, they seem to want to embrace their grey and accentuate it. Many ask for their patchy colours to be rebalanced to give that ‘George Clooney’ look,” says Tai. Both Goldwell and Aveda have introduced grey services for men. Aveda’s Men’s Grey Blending service appeals to men because it ensures their hair colour will still look natural and won’t add any extra time onto their normal appointment for a haircut. “Offering a service that has virtually no effect on how long their regular service will take, along with the discreet way this colour service is added on at the backwash, is perfect for male clients,” says Stel Nicolaou, master barber at the Aveda Institute. Meanwhile, Goldwell’s Grey Camouflage service is a five-minute grey blending service that’s discreet and also applied at the backwash. Discretion and time are key when it comes to men and how to get them into colour – something Mahogany’s Tai believes is vital. “Ensure that a colour service is swift – the last thing that most gents will want is to be sat in a window seat with foils in for an hour,” he says. “COLOUR FOR MEN IS HAVING A MOMENT. IT’S ABOUT BEING ANARCHIC” GEN ITOH, CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF BED HEAD HAIR SPACE, SHOREDITCH Most men will need to be eased into the idea of colour, whether it’s for a grey service or something else. Ashleigh Hodges, creative director at Jamie Stevens Hair, has found offering toning services to men a good first step. “We are toning men’s hair as an introduction to colour or adding a few freehand pieces, then progressing them onto larger services slowly,” she says. For James Taylor, colour director at Barrie Stephen, he’s found cooler colours and ash tones work best for men. “Breaking their base colour is also a quick and cost-effective way to introduce a male client into colour,” he adds. But what about those men that don’t want to be discreet at all with their hair colour? As ever, celebrities are leading the way in this regard with Zayn Malik and Jared Leto both sporting fashion shades over the past year. Mintel has found that a third of men aged 16 to 24 have coloured their hair in the past year themselves, opting for temporary fashion shades that can be easily washed out. But, again, how can you get these men into the salon? Will Eagles, creative director at Cream Hair, has found providing the lifting service required to then apply temporary colours a big hit in his salon. “We’ve had a huge surge in men wanting temporary pastel colours and so we get them to a pale, light base to enable them to achieve this,” he explains. “Younger men are coming in with a vast knowledge of colour options and techniques.” Will adds that the hard part for his team is to then explain the lengthy processes and upkeep of these trends. “The younger demographic is investing more in colour, but have unrealistic expectations. They are heavily influenced by Instagram and YouTube.” Gen Itoh, creative director of TIGI’s Bed Head Hair Space in Shoreditch, East London, has also found young men are driving this upsurge in men’s colour. “Men and hair colour has always been an uneasy pairing,” he says. “But influenced by the music scene and creative industries, colour for men is having a moment. It’s about being anarchic and statement-making – to stand out and be seen. On a recent shoot we used the local East London ‘urban squad’ and we gave several of the guys cutting-edge, revolutionary looks, strengthened with Bed Head <strong>Colour</strong> Trip.” While inroads have been made into offering men hair colour options that they would want, it’s still mainly targeted at those with grey hair. To maximise on the new trend, you have to get them while they’re young. Higher engagement from the start will result in greater revenue generation, a growth in clientele and happier male clients. <strong>Colour</strong> <strong>Forecast</strong> SEE MORE from the world of male grooming in Mr. Q free with Creative HEAD October 43
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