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We climb higher. Al leads the way, pedalling powerfully<br />

and smoothly up the rocky slabs. I glance back and Andy’s<br />

right behind me, picking careful lines through the tricky<br />

sections. We’re soon passing the shuttered-up halfway house<br />

and approaching the hardest section of the climb, the bit I’ve<br />

never seen anyone close to riding. Once a boulder-strewn<br />

slope, it’s been resurfaced with stone steps but is still nigh<br />

on impossible. I make it up the first couple before giving up.<br />

Andy tries to sneak round the outside, but he too is soon off<br />

and pushing. Pushing all the way through the tunnel and all<br />

the way up the loose slope beyond.<br />

As we climb, Al spots another rider high above us.<br />

Then we meet a couple of runners, a dog walker, and a<br />

group of school kids who’ve camped at the top. ‘YOU’RE<br />

DAWDLING, BOYS!’, bellows their teacher. I don’t think he<br />

meant us.<br />

We’re greeted at the summit by the rumble of a diesel<br />

generator and a friendly blast from its exhaust. Prince Charles<br />

once described Snowdon as ‘the highest slum in Wales’. A<br />

little harsh, perhaps, but with a concrete railway station<br />

and associated paraphernalia, it’s certainly not the prettiest<br />

mountaintop. But ignore the immediate surroundings and it’s<br />

stunning. The sun’s out and the morning mist is just burning<br />

off. There are mountains on three sides and the sea on the<br />

other. Ridges and valleys climb towards us from every angle.<br />

We can spot the different tracks leading up the hill, see where<br />

we’re going and where we’ve been. It’s spectacular.<br />

It’s also busy – at 8am. We don’t stop long before turning to<br />

rattle down the summit steps. Right away the descent leaves<br />

an impression. Rocks dotted across a smooth track means<br />

there’s plenty of line choice. Cruise a bit here, pick a fast line<br />

there and hop off a rock when you fancy it. But don’t get<br />

too carried away, as awkward lines or big rock steps seem to<br />

appear the instant you stop paying sufficient attention. Two<br />

minutes into a 700m descent and I’m already having a whale<br />

of a time.<br />

Concentration at an all time high.<br />

32

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