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Rise and shine!<br />

Our two guides pick us up in the morning while it’s still dark.<br />

As the sun’s first rays reach out over the eastern horizon we<br />

stand 947m above sea level on Pico da Barrosa, the highest<br />

point on the island. Below us there’s a beautiful display of<br />

colours – light green illuminating a circular lake framed by a<br />

white sandy beach. The darkening forest reveals its contours<br />

and radiates surreal rich green tones that stand out against the<br />

azure blue sky. We can’t take our eyes off the colours.<br />

The guide waves past a bunch of local enduro riders who<br />

want to ride the island’s longest trail before work. Then it’s<br />

our turn. We leave the crater lake on our left and follow the<br />

path along a ridge. Riding for a while with a view of the sea,<br />

the trail suddenly plunges into dense vegetation. It’s a tunnel<br />

of roots and lianas. To begin with, the blue sky shines through<br />

the dense network and then the lush greenery takes over.<br />

The trail turns into a roller coaster with no emergency exit.<br />

Right turn, then left turn, our tyres grip down into a peat-like<br />

soil from which a root protrudes every now and again. Each<br />

time I think I’m falling I’m caught by a berm, then after the<br />

bend comes a drop. And repeat…<br />

All of a sudden an open meadow appears: time to apply<br />

the brakes. I nearly ride into Andre and Julia who have just<br />

let a pair of Azorean cows go past. There are 200,000 cows on<br />

Sao Miguel – that’s one cow for every inhabitant. As we come<br />

to a stop at the small port of Caloura, Andre One is waiting<br />

for us with the shuttle. We drive halfway up to Pico da<br />

Barrosa. At the bend a wooden sign points towards a popular<br />

downhill course. “If the descent becomes too difficult, keep to<br />

the left. That’s where we’ve installed Chickenways,” explains<br />

our guide. ‘Chickenways’ somehow sounds more regimented<br />

than mere chicken lines. And it’s not just at one spot that I’m<br />

glad about them.<br />

But first, the limbo competition!<br />

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