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CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC<br />
VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 9<br />
TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS<br />
The<br />
Motorcycle<br />
Diaries<br />
THẾ GIỚI PUBLISHERS<br />
WORDVIETNAM.COM
Contents<br />
Sep.<strong>2016</strong><br />
64<br />
58<br />
96<br />
THE TALK<br />
010 / The Full Package<br />
Foreigners need to up their game<br />
011 / The Big Five<br />
<strong>September</strong> in <strong>Vietnam</strong><br />
BRIEFINGS<br />
12 / The Party of the Century<br />
<strong>Word</strong> celebrates 100 issues<br />
14 / The Burger Challenge<br />
Can you eat a 2kg burger in less than<br />
30 minutes? Owen Salisbury couldn’t<br />
16 / Shutta<br />
It’s not Flappy Bird, but it’s been<br />
developed in <strong>Vietnam</strong><br />
20 / The Best Bus in Hanoi<br />
Just in case you wanted to use public<br />
transport<br />
24 / Battling the Sharks<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong> trials 4G. Will it make a<br />
difference?<br />
INSIDER<br />
52 / Keeping it in the Family<br />
Three generations, one business<br />
58 / The Homestay Experience<br />
In search of authenticity<br />
64 / The Motorcycle Diaries<br />
Che Guevara would have been<br />
proud. Well, maybe not<br />
96 / The District 2 Special<br />
There’s something a-brewing over<br />
Saigon Bridge<br />
EAT & DRINK<br />
110 / Hidden Gems<br />
Our favourite dishes in our favourite<br />
places<br />
116 / Top Eats Hanoi<br />
This month: Don’s Tay Ho<br />
118 / Banh My Pho Hue<br />
Banh my without all the bling<br />
120/ Mystery Diner HCMC<br />
Monsoon gets the thumbs up<br />
122 / A Taste from the Past<br />
Pho sold as it used to be<br />
122<br />
2 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 3
Contents<br />
Sep.<strong>2016</strong><br />
124<br />
132<br />
194<br />
TRAVEL<br />
124 / The Art & Architecture<br />
of Georgetown<br />
A trip to multicultural Penang<br />
132 / The Abandoned Valley<br />
Phong Nha gets a new day trip. It’s<br />
breathtaking<br />
HANOI<br />
42 / To-Do List<br />
48 / Just In<br />
144 / Hanoi City Guide<br />
152 / Bar Stool<br />
154 / Coffee Cup<br />
162 / City Map<br />
HCMC<br />
32 / To-Do List<br />
4 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com<br />
38 / Just In<br />
164 / HCMC City Guide<br />
178 / Bar Stool<br />
182 / Coffee Cup<br />
186 / Top Eats<br />
192 / City Map<br />
COLUMNS<br />
148 / The Alchemist<br />
150 / The Therapist<br />
158 / Medical Buff<br />
160 / A World of Good<br />
161 / Book Buff<br />
170 / Body and Temple<br />
172 / Location, Location,<br />
Location<br />
190 / Know Your City<br />
FINAL SAY<br />
194 / Bike to the Future?<br />
Can anything dethrone the<br />
motorbike?<br />
198 / Road Tripping<br />
10 ways to keep your road trip from<br />
falling apart<br />
200 / Ten 10<br />
Business owner and travel industry<br />
pioneer, Ben Mitchell<br />
200
CONTRIBUTORS<br />
This month we asked our team to tell us about<br />
their best travel experience in <strong>Vietnam</strong><br />
HARRY HODGE<br />
Contributor<br />
I went to Hanoi for what was<br />
supposed to be a three-day weekend<br />
and ended up spending a month there<br />
filming a travel show. I stayed in the Old<br />
Quarter and walked past Hoan Kiem Lake<br />
to work every day, and spent Tet there too. It was an<br />
unexpected working holiday, and gave me a good<br />
memory of the city.<br />
SIAN KAVANAGH<br />
Staff Writer<br />
Kayaking in Halong Bay. The scenery<br />
was breathtaking and beyond anything<br />
I’ve ever experienced before. It was<br />
such a thrill to explore the islands and<br />
caves.<br />
JULIE VOLA<br />
Photo Editor<br />
No trip is completely perfect, but for<br />
me it would have to be that time when<br />
I went to the Mekong Delta, but you<br />
know what? You can read all about it in<br />
our cover story. :)<br />
MADS MONSEN<br />
Creative Director<br />
When I first moved to <strong>Vietnam</strong>, my dad<br />
came over and we went on an epic trip,<br />
just the two of us together. Wonderful<br />
memories, including standing on the<br />
back of a jeep in Dalat and almost getting<br />
decapitated by a wire as the driver did not realise that<br />
tall Norwegians are even taller than the jeep when<br />
forced to stand behind it. It all went well in the end.<br />
JESSE MEADOWS<br />
Staff Writer<br />
Swimming in Pongour Falls near<br />
Dalat, one of those places that feels<br />
like a dream. I still swoon when I think<br />
about it.<br />
ZOE OSBORNE<br />
Contributor<br />
The first time I went back to my<br />
boyfriend’s hometown. I had never<br />
been in the Mekong Delta before and<br />
when I came to Tra Vinh his beautiful<br />
family totally immersed me in their way<br />
of life — it was my first time preparing canh chua,<br />
eating dog, looking after cows, etc. I learnt how to<br />
fish like his family, and we cooked cashew nuts by<br />
the river.<br />
NICK ROSS<br />
Chief Editor<br />
Undoubtedly my trip to Hang En, the<br />
third largest cave in the world. Sleeping<br />
on a beach in a cave home to 100,000<br />
swallows was sublime.<br />
The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC<br />
NICK ROSS<br />
Chief Editor<br />
nick@wordvietnam.com<br />
MADS MONSEN<br />
Creative Director<br />
mads@wordvietnam.com<br />
BAO ZOAN<br />
Staff Photographer<br />
baozoan@wordvietnam.com<br />
RODNEY HUGHES<br />
Staff Photographer<br />
rodney@wordvietnam.com<br />
JESSE MEADOWS<br />
Staff Writer (Hanoi)<br />
jesse@wordvietnam.com<br />
BAO ROSS<br />
General Director<br />
bao@wordvietnam.com<br />
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SIÂN KAVANAGH<br />
Staff Writer<br />
sian@wordvietnam.com<br />
OWEN SALISBURY<br />
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6 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
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Dalat Train Station<br />
The once-upon-a-time hub of the cog railway that ran from<br />
Dalat to Phan Rang<br />
’m in two minds about Dalat. Sure it’s<br />
been dubbed ‘Le Petit Paris’ and ‘The<br />
City of Eternal Spring’, the scenery<br />
is spectacular, and it’s <strong>Vietnam</strong>’s<br />
most popular honeymoon spot, but as<br />
I explored the region I kept thinking to<br />
myself that maybe I’d have been better off<br />
going to Sa Pa or Mui Ne or Nha Trang<br />
instead.<br />
Perhaps if I’d been on my honeymoon I’d<br />
have had a different perspective on things.<br />
It’s not that I particularly disliked the place;<br />
it’s just that I didn’t particularly fall in love<br />
with it either.<br />
Dalat is situated on a 1,500-metre high<br />
plateau in the central highlands of <strong>Vietnam</strong>,<br />
seven hours from Ho Chi Minh City. Its<br />
surrounding mountains have prompted<br />
many people to liken the area to the French<br />
Alps. Fields of flowers, waterfalls, coffee<br />
and tea plantations, hectares of pine forests<br />
(‘The City of 1000 Pines’ is yet another of<br />
Dalat’s names), vegetable gardens and fruit<br />
plantations are among the things that draw<br />
many visitors to the region.<br />
The area attracts 800,000 domestic tourists<br />
a year, and a smaller number of foreign<br />
130 | <strong>Word</strong> August <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com<br />
By Don Wills<br />
Full Steam Ahead<br />
Inside the steam train running from Dalat to Trai Mat<br />
tourists — 80,000 to be exact. The climate is<br />
temperate all year round, the air is fresh, the<br />
skies are blue, and the rolling foothills of the<br />
countryside are lush and green.<br />
Big Attractions<br />
The city is renowned for its marigold,<br />
hydrangea and orchid gardens. In the centre<br />
of the city is the artificial Xuan Huong Lake,<br />
created in the mid-1980s. Dalat’s attractions<br />
include the market, the Domaine de Marie<br />
Convent where a pink church sits atop a hill,<br />
the Valley of Love, the Lake of Sighs, Thien<br />
Vien Truc Lam Monastery which can be<br />
accessed by cable car, and Tuyen Lam Lake,<br />
also man-made.<br />
At Dalat’s 200-year-old railway station,<br />
you can climb aboard a steam locomotive<br />
bound for Trai Mat 7km away; a great little<br />
ride for steam train nuts like me. In the<br />
centre of the city there’s a surreal building<br />
dubbed The Crazy House. It is actually a<br />
guest-house, and resembles a cross between<br />
a medieval castle and a troglodyte’s abode.<br />
The interior is every bit as out-of-this-world<br />
as the exterior.<br />
Dalat City has many buildings with<br />
You’ve Been Flagged<br />
A train attendant manages the crossing in the village of Trai Mat<br />
Beans<br />
Dalat is famous for its coffee, flowers, fruit and vegetables<br />
French-era architecture, hotels from two-star So how come I’m not as enthused with vegetable gardens don’t push any of my<br />
and up, <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese and ethnic restaurants, Dalat as most visitors seem to be? It’s buttons. Nor do acres of pine trees, for that<br />
bars, and a few nightclubs and discos. difficult to put a finger on it. When I was matter. OK, the flower gardens are good, but<br />
Dalat’s nightlife is best described as muted. there I kept looking for something more, only for about five minutes. Maybe it’s just<br />
What little excitement there is fizzles out by something unique, something memorable, me. Maybe I’m all travelled-out this year. I<br />
around 10.30pm, which is kind of surprising that would have me gasping “Oooh! Ahh! might just have to go back and give the place<br />
for a city that attracts so many visitors. Fun Wow! This I’ve gotta tell the folks back home a second try next year.<br />
City, it ain’t.<br />
about!” But none of that happened. The Born in New Zealand, Don Wills lives in<br />
place left me vaguely dissatisfied. I don’t Vung Tau. He’s been writing his way round the<br />
Big Game<br />
know about you, but artificial lakes and region for decades<br />
Back in the 1950s, Dalat was a Mecca for<br />
big-game hunters. Deer, roe, wild boar,<br />
black bear, wildcats, panthers, tigers, gaurs<br />
and elephants were all in abundance, and<br />
were eagerly hunted down by gun-happy<br />
sportsmen from across the world. Now<br />
all of the animals have now been wiped<br />
out. The only present-day reminder of<br />
the big-game era is a few mounted heads<br />
you’ll see on walls here and there. Sad, but<br />
a situation that’s happened all too often in<br />
many countries.<br />
To my mind, Dalat is worth spending one<br />
or two days in, but more than that — not for<br />
me, thanks. On a rating of one to ten, I’d give<br />
it… ooh… a four. If it wasn’t for the steam<br />
train I’d give it a three.<br />
wordvietnam.com | August <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 131<br />
The<br />
Prelude<br />
While I was<br />
travelling<br />
this month<br />
I heard<br />
an excellent quote that<br />
sums up the expat<br />
experience.<br />
“As an expat you’ve<br />
got all the freedom<br />
but no rights, at home<br />
you’ve got all the rights<br />
but no freedom.”<br />
Credited to a Hoi Anbased<br />
American expat,<br />
Karl Christ, for me the<br />
ultimate evocation of<br />
that freedom is the road<br />
trip. There is something<br />
thrilling about having<br />
the wind in your<br />
eyes and hair, and<br />
driving down country<br />
roads surrounded by<br />
untouched jungle and<br />
soaring mountains.<br />
Anyone who has been<br />
on a motorbike trip<br />
themselves, or watched<br />
the Top Gear <strong>Vietnam</strong><br />
Special or The Motorcycle<br />
Diaries will understand<br />
what I mean.<br />
The biggest danger in<br />
a road trip, of course, is<br />
the possibility of having<br />
an accident. Statistically,<br />
you’re 40 times more<br />
likely to be killed on<br />
a motorbike than you<br />
are in a car. Time and<br />
time again you hear<br />
stories of backpackers<br />
— motopackers we now<br />
call them — getting on<br />
a bike for the first time<br />
to ride from North to<br />
South or South to North,<br />
and coming away with<br />
horrendous injuries.<br />
The day before I<br />
left Phong Nha for my<br />
own road trip, one of<br />
the guests in the place<br />
I was staying had an<br />
accident. They were<br />
with a group of friends<br />
who that morning had<br />
hired motorbikes for<br />
the first time. Advice is<br />
constantly dished out in<br />
Phong Nha about safety<br />
on a motorbike; don’t<br />
wear flip-flops, put on<br />
proper shoes; make sure<br />
you have on long sleeves<br />
and long trousers; put<br />
on sunscreen; make sure<br />
you drink lots of water;<br />
don’t drive drunk. And<br />
so on.<br />
Yet sometimes expats<br />
seem unwilling to<br />
give up that notion of<br />
‘freedom’ and, young<br />
people being young<br />
people, ignore every<br />
aspect of safety. In this<br />
instance, the person who<br />
had that accident broke<br />
their leg and left in a<br />
taxi to the international<br />
hospital in Hue with<br />
their foot hanging off.<br />
If you’ve lived in<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong> for some time<br />
you will likely know<br />
someone who’s had a<br />
bike accident or will<br />
have had one yourself.<br />
You may even know<br />
people who’ve been<br />
killed — I unfortunately<br />
know well over 10.<br />
So if you are going to<br />
do a road trip, and if you<br />
are going to stimulate<br />
that sense of freedom<br />
evoked by the open<br />
road, take care. Your<br />
life is valuable. So don’t<br />
throw it away. Unless<br />
you’re a cat or believe<br />
in reincarnation, you<br />
only have one of them.<br />
— Nick Ross, Chief<br />
Editor<br />
CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC<br />
VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 9<br />
TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS<br />
THẾ GIỚI PUBLISHERS<br />
The<br />
Motorcycle<br />
Diaries<br />
WORDVIETNAM.COM<br />
THIS MONTH'S COVER<br />
Design by DH Advertising<br />
Photo by Nick Ross<br />
Have Your Say<br />
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via Twitter, @wordvietnam. No matter how positive or negative your thoughts, we look forward to<br />
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like to air? If<br />
so, reach out<br />
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us at nick@<br />
wordvietnam.<br />
com — we’re at<br />
your fingertips.<br />
Time to Fact Check<br />
Pages 130 and 160, August <strong>2016</strong><br />
“At Dalat’s 200-year-old railway<br />
station, you can climb aboard a<br />
steam locomotive bound for Trai<br />
Mat 7km away; a great little ride<br />
for steam train nuts like me.”<br />
Just thought I should point<br />
out that Dalat station was<br />
built in 1936, not 1816. The<br />
French weren’t even here then<br />
and Stephenson didn’t build<br />
his Rocket until 1829. Also,<br />
there are no working steam<br />
locomotives in Dalat, the trains<br />
are hauled by diesels. — Tim<br />
Doling<br />
<strong>Word</strong> is usually an excellent<br />
read for the factual local tripper.<br />
However, your August issue<br />
contained some glaring errors.<br />
Page 130, Dalat Railway Station.<br />
It’s 78 years old and operates<br />
a diesel train to Trai Mat, not a<br />
steam train. Page 160, “Strikes<br />
East of Saigon to Thai Son”.<br />
Thai Son is northwest of Saigon,<br />
not east. — Chris Evans<br />
Get it Right, Please<br />
Notes From Another City, page 130,<br />
August <strong>2016</strong><br />
I find Don Wills’ article about Dalat<br />
misrepresentational for a couple of<br />
reasons.<br />
The ‘flowery’ reputation of Dalat<br />
has been over-ramped by local<br />
culture, rather like stolen or over<br />
Photoshopped photos of food on a<br />
menu, which are then followed by<br />
food that disappoints as it arrives.<br />
In Asia, ritual seeps through all<br />
aspects of a life, and the fantasy<br />
of climbing up to the plateau of<br />
flowers, fresh air, the lakes and<br />
marriage photos provide an airy<br />
dream for people to look forward<br />
to. Dalat provides holidaymakers’<br />
basics — an affordable bed,<br />
street food and the night market.<br />
Authenticity isn’t their goal. Rather,<br />
a place for relief and endless<br />
hanging out with friends, family or<br />
the [betrothed]. The authorities like<br />
that. It’s manageable.<br />
Dalat also comes with a diverse<br />
history and a range of things worthy<br />
of note. The Dalat Palace Hotel, for<br />
example, is believed by some to be<br />
I<br />
NOTES FROM ANOTHER CITY<br />
ENTRY 7: Dalat<br />
Dalat City has many buildings with<br />
French-era architecture, hotels from<br />
two-star and up, <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese and ethnic<br />
restaurants, bars, and a few nightclubs<br />
and discos. Dalat’s nightlife is best<br />
described as muted<br />
the first building in Dalat. It’s ornate,<br />
art nouveau and although it was later<br />
stripped to simplicity and renamed,<br />
the inside was beautifully restored by<br />
Larry Hillblom from DHL. There’s a<br />
whole story in that as well.<br />
The point is there’s a lot of history<br />
in Dalat: the lonely Ankroet Power<br />
Station, Buddhas carved from<br />
wood over 600 years ago in one<br />
of the local temples; the old Lycee<br />
Francaise; the personal collection of<br />
local tools, weapons, instruments<br />
of anthropologist Pierre Morere (his<br />
grandfather was the first person to<br />
plant coffee trees in Dalat).<br />
The depth of Dalat is disguised and<br />
it takes time to see the actuality. —<br />
Tim Carson<br />
8 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 9
Talk<br />
Lead<br />
Once upon a time, Asia was The<br />
Wild East, where misfits could<br />
recreate themselves overnight,<br />
even at a corporate level.<br />
Remember the label FILTH, or Failed in<br />
London, Try Hong Kong?<br />
That doesn’t wash any more. Asia might<br />
have been a bolthole for corporate no-hopers<br />
back then, but with economic and social<br />
development now so rapid, demands on<br />
expats to measure up have increased, and<br />
the places where you can go to be a screw-up<br />
have shrunk. The Wild East is being tamed,<br />
country by country, province by province.<br />
Hong Kong, Singapore and Malaysia<br />
now make it clear that they want quality,<br />
contributing expats, not malfunctioning<br />
eyesores who knock down the local culture<br />
while embarrassing their own.<br />
The openness of Thailand has meant that<br />
it has long been a hospice for unrepentant<br />
losers, but even that is changing under<br />
the present regime. Visa runs for the serial<br />
tourist? Not any more, my friend. See that<br />
big red stamp in your passport?<br />
Papers, Please<br />
<strong>Word</strong> sees a lot of the downside, being<br />
in the journalism business — one of the<br />
‘soft’ options. Sure, they say, I can write.<br />
Sure, I can take photos, and, being a world<br />
citizen as well as a Western male, I have no<br />
problems taking orders from your female,<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese, editorial manager.<br />
They can write, but not what you asked<br />
for; they can take photos, but not the ones<br />
you wanted, and as for being subordinate to<br />
our editorial manager, forget it. They can’t<br />
do it. Worse, they then deny it’s an issue.<br />
“I have 100 staff, of whom two are<br />
foreigners,” said one (actually several) of<br />
the business owners we’ve talked to. “We<br />
spend more time dealing with the issues of<br />
working with the foreigners than with the<br />
rest of the staff put together.”<br />
Foreigners with skills are still needed<br />
TALK<br />
LEAD<br />
The Full<br />
Package<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>’s rapid development is forcing<br />
foreigners to up their game<br />
and indeed embraced in <strong>Vietnam</strong>, but<br />
expats with only one attribute — a sense of<br />
personal entitlement — are going to find the<br />
going here increasingly sticky.<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong> is changing so quickly, it’s not<br />
surprising that the role of expats here is<br />
also changing. Many of us remember the<br />
brigades of charming losers to be seen sitting<br />
outside on stools in Pham Ngu Lao in Saigon<br />
or in the dive bars in Hanoi, drinking cheap<br />
beer until it was time for their next English<br />
teaching class. Many of them were delightful<br />
people, full of entertaining yarns and<br />
unhealed regrets, and most of them were<br />
totally useless, which was perhaps how they<br />
preferred it.<br />
But modern economic times don’t have<br />
much space for them. Regulations have<br />
tightened and enforcement improved,<br />
leaving expats the choice of shaping up or<br />
shipping out, as they say. To get on here,<br />
there are three broad categories.<br />
Walk The Talk<br />
First, you can still make it as an Englishlanguage<br />
teacher — the formal requirement<br />
now is that you have a university degree and<br />
a TEFL or CELTA certificate. But if you don’t<br />
take your work seriously, and everyone sees<br />
that you treat teaching as simply a chore,<br />
and a way to earn beer money, expect to<br />
find yourself out on your ear within a few<br />
months.<br />
Second, you go for gainful employment<br />
in a different sector. But to survive you’ve<br />
got to be the full package. This doesn’t just<br />
mean showing talent; you must be a good<br />
communicator, you need a tolerance of<br />
how things are done here, you’ve got to be<br />
dynamic and responsible, and you must<br />
demonstrate you’re worth the salary.<br />
The final option, which is increasingly<br />
attractive in what is more than ever a land<br />
of opportunity, is to go into business for<br />
yourself. Increasing numbers of foreigners<br />
are taking this route. Some succeed, some<br />
fail, and some are just lucky. The issue<br />
here is not just finding the right niche, but<br />
exploiting that niche to its full.<br />
This is no longer the Wild East, where<br />
anything goes, and as <strong>Vietnam</strong> grows more<br />
confident and outward-looking, and as its<br />
people gain more worldly experience, unless<br />
you’re the full package or you decide to go<br />
it on your own, you will struggle to make it<br />
here. — David Legard / Nick Ross<br />
10 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
Big The5British<br />
bigwigs,<br />
dance<br />
festivals,<br />
German<br />
movies and<br />
a run for<br />
charity<br />
a<br />
b<br />
c<br />
a. Lord Mandelson weighs up the pros and cons of Brexit<br />
b. Kaiser Souzai are big, so big they’ve even got their own genre<br />
c. This year’s Hanoi Dance Festival will be staged both in the capital and Ho Chi Minh City<br />
1<br />
Lord Mandelson<br />
Le Meridien Saigon, HCMC<br />
Thursday, Sep. 8<br />
Once known us the spin doctor<br />
who pulled strings for Tony Blair,<br />
Lord Mandelson will be in Saigon<br />
this month to provide his own<br />
perspective on Brexit. Industry<br />
experts will also be on hand at this<br />
joint BBGV and Eurocham function<br />
to discuss the <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese and<br />
regional implications of the vote.<br />
For anyone intrigued by the impact<br />
of the decisions made by the world’s<br />
fifth largest economy, this should be<br />
afascinating event.<br />
Global Implications of Brexit: A<br />
Special Talk with Lord Mandelson will<br />
take place from 11.45am to 1.30pm on<br />
Sep. 8, <strong>2016</strong>. For further info and to<br />
book your place, turn to page 32<br />
The German Film Festival<br />
Hanoi, Hai Phong, Hue, Danang<br />
and HCMC<br />
2 Sep. 8 to Sep. 25<br />
Eight films will be screened at<br />
this year’s German Film Festival,<br />
offering a versatile mix of dramas,<br />
thrillers, comedies and children’s<br />
movies. A highlight is expected to<br />
be the emotionally charged 2015<br />
film Victoria from director Sebastian<br />
Schipper, with its heavy use of<br />
improvisation by the actors and its<br />
real-time emphasis.<br />
Now in its seventh year, the<br />
festival will be shown in five cities:<br />
Hanoi, Hai Phong, Hue, Danang<br />
and Ho Chi Minh City. Tickets are<br />
free and the films are screened<br />
in German with English and<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese subtitles.<br />
For information on the complete<br />
schedule in all cities visit goethe.de/<br />
german-filmfestival-vietnam<br />
3<br />
Kaiser Souzai<br />
Hanoi Rock City, Hanoi<br />
Saturday, Sep. 10<br />
Courtesy of Luminous Showcase,<br />
Hanoi Rock City will be the venue<br />
for an international DJ duo that<br />
have made waves both on the Berlin<br />
underground and more recently<br />
internationally with their live<br />
performances.<br />
With a name that has echoes of<br />
the fictional character, Keyser Söze,<br />
from the cult 1995 movie The Usual<br />
Suspects, over the years Kaiser<br />
Souzai have established a musical<br />
genre all of their own — Art-rock<br />
Tech. Drawing influence from 1970s<br />
greats such as Pink Floyd, Genesis<br />
and Yes, while keeping to their roots<br />
of deep and progressive techno,<br />
their sound hit dancefloors across<br />
the globe by storm in 2014 and<br />
2015. The journey saw them end<br />
their New Zealand tour headlining<br />
alongside the legendary Carl Cox.<br />
Kaiser Souzai are big.<br />
But will they be big enough for Hanoi<br />
Rock City (27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,<br />
Hanoi)? Find out on Sep. 10. Entrance<br />
is VND150,000 (VND130,000<br />
concessions) and includes a free<br />
welcome drink.<br />
Europe Dances Into Asia<br />
4<br />
5<br />
Hanoi and HCMC<br />
Sep. 21 to Sep. 27<br />
The sixth Hanoi Dance Festival,<br />
coordinated by the Goethe-Institut,<br />
has as this year’s theme “Europe<br />
meets Asia in Contemporary Dance”.<br />
Over six days, audiences in Hanoi<br />
can experience contemporary dance<br />
in a variety of styles from different<br />
countries: Germany, France, Israel,<br />
Japan, Austria as well as the host<br />
country <strong>Vietnam</strong>. The festival will<br />
then move to Ho Chi Minh City for<br />
three days from Sep. 25 to Sep. 27.<br />
Tickets cost VND100,000 and<br />
information about each day’s programme<br />
is available at hanoidancefestival.com<br />
BBGV Fun Run<br />
Phu My Hung, HCMC<br />
Sunday, Sep. 25<br />
Now in its 16th year, The BBGV<br />
Annual Charity Fun Run is back<br />
to raise money for disadvantaged<br />
people throughout <strong>Vietnam</strong>. The<br />
perfect opportunity for team<br />
building, bonding with friends or<br />
family, all the while assisting the<br />
disadvantaged and elderly, this<br />
year’s 4km run will take place in<br />
Phu My Hung and 9,000 runners are<br />
expected to take part.<br />
For more information about how<br />
to get involved contact Nga at nga.<br />
nguyen@bbgv.org, call (08) 3829 8430<br />
or go to ticketbox.vn. The run takes place<br />
from 7am to 10.30am and will start at<br />
Tan Trao, Phu My Hung, Q7, HCMC<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 11
Briefings<br />
National<br />
The Party<br />
of the Century<br />
At <strong>Word</strong> we’re known for our<br />
modesty, which is why to<br />
celebrate 100 issues of our humble<br />
publication we staged the party<br />
of all parties at the end of July. We called it<br />
The Party of the Century.<br />
The venue? Boudoir Lounge in the<br />
Sofitel Plaza Saigon. The invitees? Clients,<br />
readers, friends and in fact anyone<br />
who has a connection to our beautiful<br />
magazine. The outcome? A night of great<br />
food, freeflow beer, prosecco provided<br />
by Red Apron (it went fast) and Bols<br />
vodka and John Henry mixers courtesy of<br />
Alchemy. In all, a wild night infused with<br />
the Latin rock tunes of Bad Neighbor and<br />
fueled by the hedonistic party desires of<br />
our guests.<br />
But a step back. 100 issues. We hit the<br />
century of monthly deadlines and monthly<br />
copies of <strong>Word</strong> back in April. In retrospect,<br />
the feat is quite hard to get our heads around<br />
— the late nights, the stress, the pain, the<br />
laughter, the fun, the fatigue. Not once, twice<br />
or 10 times. But 100. That’s a lot of sleepless<br />
nights.<br />
Dear reader, we couldn’t have done this<br />
without you. Dear client, you too. And dear<br />
members of the team at <strong>Word</strong> both past and<br />
present. Without you all and all your sweat,<br />
we wouldn’t have been doing this for almost<br />
nine years.<br />
Time to make it a decade.<br />
12 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 13<br />
PHOTOS BY WORD VIETNAM
Briefings<br />
HCMC<br />
The Burger Challenge<br />
Can you eat a 2kg burger in 30 minutes?<br />
time.”<br />
The bearer walks in to cheers<br />
and groans. Flags flutter from the<br />
“It’s<br />
burden she carries.<br />
My fellow competitors and I share a look<br />
of mixed anticipation and desperation.<br />
“We,” I say, “are definitely screwed.”<br />
Today, I’m a gladiator, and my enemy is<br />
two kilograms of burger, bun, bacon and<br />
cheese. And I am totally screwed.<br />
Food competitions are not my thing. I’ve<br />
never gotten the idea of competitive eating,<br />
preferring to enjoy the taste of my food rather<br />
than having to purge it all back up. It seems a<br />
waste, and frankly unpleasant to endure. So<br />
naturally when <strong>Word</strong>’s publisher asked me if<br />
I wanted to do the Pullman Hotel’s challenge<br />
at their new pop-up Burger Bar, I said yes<br />
immediately. Why else work at a magazine if<br />
not to do stuff outside your comfort zone?<br />
The Fight of My Life<br />
Once I’ve accepted, I’m unsure how to<br />
proceed, and I spend an instructive several<br />
days researching how to stretch one’s<br />
stomach, open one’s throat, and cram<br />
potentially fatal amounts of food down the<br />
latter and into the former. I discover “Prince”<br />
Kobayashi Takeru, the skinny little Japanese<br />
rock-star of global eating contests, who once<br />
put away 62 slices of pizza in 12 minutes. He<br />
embodies the Japanese national spirit of taking<br />
things way too far, but I study his technique<br />
and expand my stomach with water and my<br />
mind with gruelling YouTube sessions.<br />
The day arrives. I show up at the<br />
Pullman, and meet the other competitors,<br />
each hopeful of earning a year’s worth of<br />
free burgers. There are two other expats<br />
— one an American, the other an MMA<br />
fighter who has been in <strong>Vietnam</strong> for all of<br />
two weeks — and one chubby <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
guy who doesn’t speak English.<br />
We chat nervously until The Moment.<br />
After that, it’s all business.<br />
2 Kilos of Heaven<br />
Let’s get something out of the way: the<br />
burger is excellent in every respect. It’s<br />
a kilo of prime Wagyu beef, juicy and<br />
rich, with 250 grams each of crispy bacon<br />
and sharp, melted cheddar, with lettuce,<br />
tomato and bun making up the rest. Were<br />
it a normal size, I’d have happily chowed<br />
the whole thing down. But the sheer<br />
mass intimidates me. It looks as big as a<br />
hubcap.<br />
However, this is for a noble purpose, so<br />
I get to work.<br />
At first, I shovel away, but quickly flag.<br />
The <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese guy slows drastically, too,<br />
the only one to do worse than I. Beef flies<br />
into the mouth of the other American at an<br />
amazing clip. The MMA fighter works his<br />
burger with fork and knife.<br />
I quickly run into a problem of<br />
mechanics. I simply can’t chew and<br />
swallow fast enough. Used to long,<br />
luxurious meals, my jaw muscles are<br />
clearly not up to the task. My pace slows.<br />
We soon gather a crowd. A middleaged<br />
Indian fellow starts taking bets. I get<br />
14 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
PHOTOS PROVIDED BY PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE<br />
terrible odds, partly because I waste time<br />
and jaw-power bantering with him.<br />
Six minutes in, I realize there’s no way<br />
on Earth I will win. Being fully accurate, I<br />
realised that the moment I signed up, but<br />
I retained the faintest spark of hope I’d get<br />
out with my pride intact.<br />
At a generous estimate, I manage about<br />
400 grams, mostly beef and cheese. I barely<br />
touch the bacon, hewn from the belly of a<br />
mighty swine. The bun is a mountain of<br />
carbs, the cheese a heart-stopping mass<br />
of warm, melted cheddar. The patty is a<br />
wheel of Wagyu beef the size, as I said, of<br />
a monster truck’s hubcap, and for all my<br />
massive bites and frantic chewing, I’ve<br />
done barely a fifth of it.<br />
The lettuce, though: I eat all the lettuce,<br />
because I will not be beaten by a vegetable<br />
(the unfinished mound of tomatoes are<br />
technically fruits. Take that, doubters.)<br />
A Victor Emerges<br />
But the other American — he does it. I’m<br />
stunned and proud; I feel honoured to<br />
stand in the same room as Mr. Charles<br />
Raezer, who ate 2,000 grams of food<br />
in 32.5 minutes. Raezer, a longtime Ho<br />
Chi Minh City resident, didn’t train. He<br />
simply didn’t eat for 24 hours before, and<br />
then managed to push through the pain.<br />
The crowd cheers. I see men shaking<br />
hands, women crying and hugging. The<br />
Pullman staff salute Charles, who not only<br />
wins a free burger a month for the next<br />
year, but also doesn’t have to pay one<br />
million dong for the burger like us losers.<br />
He shakes the hand of the Pullman<br />
Hotel’s managers; marketing, assistant,<br />
the main man himself. I watch and<br />
occasionally take cruddy pictures on my<br />
phone.<br />
Aftermath<br />
I notice the MMA guy is still picking at his<br />
food long after the competition ends. He<br />
seems to be enjoying himself.<br />
My burger is still there, mocking me<br />
with how much is left.<br />
“Hey,” says the MMA fighter. “Can I<br />
take your bacon?” Since I can’t imagine<br />
ever eating again, I allow him to stuff all<br />
250 grams into a doggie bag and saunter<br />
off. He looks happy.<br />
Competitive eating is not for the faint<br />
nor unhealthy of heart, and I’m not likely<br />
to ever venture into it again, but I’ve learnt<br />
something from the experience. It is this: I<br />
cannot eat two kilos of food in 30 minutes,<br />
not even such a fantastic burger. Not even<br />
with training.<br />
Kobayashi-san would be so<br />
disappointed, but at least I’m not in the<br />
Darwin Awards. And yes, I loved every<br />
bite. — Owen Salisbury<br />
Think you can do better? The challenge is<br />
ongoing and you can also check out the Burger<br />
Bar’s massive array of burgers on the ground<br />
floor of the Pullman Hotel, 148 Tran Hung Dao,<br />
Q1, HCMC. The challenge costs VND999,000<br />
unless you finish the burger in less than 30<br />
minutes. Then it’s free of charge<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 15
Briefings<br />
National<br />
Shutta<br />
An app developed in <strong>Vietnam</strong> that’s created a storm<br />
In an online world dominated by<br />
the social media giants Facebook,<br />
Instagram and Snapchat, it’s hard<br />
to imagine developing a new social<br />
platform. But the team at Shutta have<br />
discovered, with the right idea in the<br />
right place at the right time, anything can<br />
happen. Their app allows for beautifully<br />
captured moments of intense action,<br />
something that not every smartphone user<br />
can achieve purely with the device in their<br />
hand, even using the burst function.<br />
During the 2013 Festival of Colours in<br />
Tarifa, Spain, James Shimell was trying<br />
to capture the perfect photograph on his<br />
smartphone but kept missing the moment.<br />
“I decided to shoot video and extract<br />
the perfect photo that way,” says James.<br />
“Though I realised there was no effective<br />
way to capture the perfect photograph from<br />
a video without losing quality of the still.”<br />
So James decided to create his own tool to<br />
capture images from video, and Shutta was<br />
born.<br />
Shutta really came to life during beta<br />
testing in early 2015, and has since grown<br />
from an initial audience of 7,000 to a current<br />
community of 700,000. The app has been<br />
present on the iPhone market for the past<br />
15 months, and last month they finished up<br />
their Android release.<br />
Intensity<br />
“The Android uptake has been good but<br />
challenging,” says Barbara Ximenez, cofounder<br />
of Shutta. “Purely because there<br />
are so many devices and screens you have<br />
to design for.” Even so, the intense Android<br />
development has paid off, as Shutta is the<br />
only video-to-photo extraction app available<br />
on multiple platforms.<br />
What started as a standalone tool for<br />
photo extraction became a community after<br />
user feedback. Users were asking for editing<br />
capabilities as well as a built-in platform to<br />
share their stills.<br />
“This was a time before Snapchat,<br />
Periscope or Facebook Live had really taken<br />
off,” says Barbara. “It wasn’t common for<br />
people to be predominantly shooting video,<br />
but the act of scrolling through video in slomo<br />
is extremely addictive.”<br />
James, Barbara and the Shutta project<br />
eventually came to find their home in<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>. “Coming [to <strong>Vietnam</strong>] helped us<br />
get inspired and continue with what we<br />
were doing,” says James. “Everyone here<br />
has a project and there is this contagious<br />
energy.” <strong>Vietnam</strong> is also home to many<br />
talented, young developers, with 14<br />
universities in Ho Chi Minh City alone<br />
offering computer science degrees.<br />
Mission Alert<br />
A unique feature of the app is the missions<br />
which are designed to give users motivation<br />
and rewards for posting. Each mission offers<br />
a unique prize for the best photograph, and<br />
they cover different themes and events. For<br />
their Android release, they gave away a<br />
Samsung Galaxy S7, as one of the hundreds<br />
of models they spent so much time<br />
developing for.<br />
When you talk to any of the team<br />
members, you can tell that the day job is still<br />
their passion project. Every opportunity they<br />
have to discuss, explain and use the app is<br />
well used.<br />
“The app is fantastic, but it’s the team<br />
that is truly remarkable,” says Barbara. “The<br />
people behind Shutta are all co-parenting the<br />
project with the same pride and dedication.”<br />
At a recent event at Saigon Outcast, the<br />
team turned up together, cameras and<br />
phones in hand, shooting plenty of footage<br />
to be used for social media posts later on.<br />
They spent their day sipping beer and<br />
playing games while filming each other and<br />
joking around. They were working, but to<br />
the untrained eye this was just a group of<br />
friends enjoying an afternoon together.<br />
“It’s all really clicked,” says James. “It<br />
makes working easier when you’re being<br />
silly and having a laugh, and it’s difficult<br />
to convince our users that we’re out there<br />
having fun if we’re really not.”<br />
Part of the laid-back work culture is the<br />
weekly BBQ gathering that the Shutta team<br />
hosts. They’ve nicknamed themselves the<br />
Not Yet Dead Poets Society and bring over<br />
their friends every Friday to celebrate the<br />
weekend with food and cold beer. Now, they<br />
want to expand the fun across the globe;<br />
firstly by taking ‘Poets’ to Hawaii, and<br />
inviting some of their most active users to<br />
a regular community party to thank them<br />
for their participation in the development of<br />
Shutta.<br />
When you download Shutta you get an<br />
app that offers the ease of having beautiful<br />
photos without the stress of perfect timing,<br />
and a new community of active, excited and<br />
engaged photographers. — Siân Kavanagh<br />
To learn more about the app go to shutta.co
PHOTOS BY SIAN KAVANAGH
Briefings<br />
HCMC<br />
The Boat Trip<br />
Heading down the canal into District 3<br />
It is about 3.15pm when we get to the<br />
Nhieu Loc River. The Dien Bien Phu<br />
bridge lies inconspicuously across the<br />
water; there is nothing remarkable<br />
about this place. The city around us is<br />
typically Saigon — the people stare as<br />
they always do, the pastel buildings bake<br />
in the sun and the air is thick and warm.<br />
The Saigon Boat Tour Company manages<br />
a series of boat trips and cruises that run for<br />
various lengths along the Nhieu Loc — Thi<br />
Nghe Canal, passing through four central<br />
districts. According to our tour guide,<br />
Thuong: “When the water level is low you<br />
can watch the fish dance, and when it is high<br />
you can see the city around you.”<br />
There seems to be about 10 too many<br />
people on the staff here. The pace is slow, no<br />
one rushes, and as we sit, a tall man takes two<br />
fresh, wet coconuts out of a room and down<br />
to the water.<br />
The Black<br />
The Nhieu Loc was once known as the<br />
Black Canal. During the war, many people<br />
18 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
PHOTOS BY VU HA KIM VY<br />
from the provinces moved to the city for<br />
work, and at the time there was no proper<br />
drainage system on Saigon’s rivers, so the<br />
canal soon became badly polluted.<br />
“It was named for its smell and its<br />
colour,” Thuong says, but as we bob<br />
upstream, oared by a stringy young man<br />
at the back of the boat, the water is more<br />
pleasant green-brown than black. “The<br />
government made a new initiative to clean<br />
all the river systems here, and the river is<br />
beautiful now.”<br />
In 2001 the World Bank’s HCMC<br />
Environmental Sanitation Project installed<br />
and replaced over 400km of sewers<br />
around the city, adding a 9km wastewater<br />
interceptor to the canal system. “It was<br />
a big project,” Thuong smiles, “and now<br />
there is a rubbish boat that comes twice<br />
every day.” As she speaks a fresh plastic<br />
box of just-nibbled noodles floats past us<br />
downstream. It must be hard to keep such a<br />
huge stretch of water clean when so many<br />
people live around it.<br />
Our boat is low to the water. We sit on<br />
a large square seat under a small canopy,<br />
equipped with a life jacket and a bright<br />
white non la straw hat for each guest. As we<br />
move so does the photographer — up and<br />
down the craft trying to get the best shot<br />
and the best angle. Locals flop their limbs<br />
over the railings at the edge of the water<br />
and young boys squat close to the bank<br />
with fishing rods.<br />
“Fishing is illegal here,” Thuong says. “If<br />
the police catch them they take the nets and<br />
rods — and the fish.”<br />
As the minutes pass we make a slow<br />
trail round a bend in the canal. On our<br />
right is a little alley of water, full of stilted<br />
slum shacks and makeshift shanties.<br />
Who knows how many of the inhabitants<br />
are not on the state records. We turn the<br />
corner, and another long boat sits in front<br />
of us.<br />
Traditional <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese music emanates<br />
from its sides and three musicians sit on its<br />
deck, playing to each other in impossible<br />
Asian modalities. We pull up to their boat<br />
and listen for a while, before floating lazily<br />
up the river again as the sun slaps the<br />
canopy above our heads.<br />
Soon it is time to turn around, and with<br />
the wind behind us the journey back is<br />
easy. We nudge our way up to the boat<br />
house, take our bags and step back onto dry<br />
land. It’s almost 4.30pm and rain is in the<br />
air. Time to go home. — Zoe Osborne<br />
For more information, click on saigonboat.<br />
com or call (08) 3911 8987<br />
Information<br />
The boat leaves from Hoang Sa Park,<br />
opposite 1 Hoang Sa, Q1, Ho Chi<br />
Minh City. The trip costs VND220,000<br />
per person (minimum of three people,<br />
maximum of five) and lasts up to 90<br />
minutes, depending on the tide. The<br />
cost of the guide, music and light<br />
refreshments is included in the price and<br />
boats run daily from 8am to 8pm. Bring<br />
sun screen, and book an evening tour for<br />
a cooler, more romantic experience.<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 19
Briefings<br />
Hanoi<br />
The Best Bus<br />
in Hanoi<br />
Just when you thought it would never happen,<br />
the airport’s got a new bus route<br />
20 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
PHOTOS BY THEO LOWENSTEIN<br />
City transportation should be like<br />
a formulaic kids’ movie; boring,<br />
predictable, and no deaths. Hanoi’s<br />
new bus line to and from the train<br />
station to the airport ticks all three.<br />
We paid VND30,000 each on a test run,<br />
logged into the free WiFi and watched the<br />
city go past, between checking tweets on our<br />
phones.<br />
It was a completely uneventful journey<br />
with absolutely no cause for concern nor<br />
amusement, as a bus journey should be.<br />
The passengers were largely indifferent to<br />
the experience.<br />
“This bus is easier than a motorbike,” said<br />
Nguyen Hua, a salesman on his way to Nha<br />
Trang.<br />
“Why?”<br />
Hua shrugged, not particularly enthused<br />
by our small talk.<br />
The Best Bus?<br />
The bus first stopped at the domestic<br />
terminal before completing its journey at<br />
the international. It was the end of the line,<br />
we were told, but we shook our heads and<br />
asked to stay onboard.<br />
They had no objections.<br />
“This is a high-quality bus, the best bus,”<br />
said a bored conductor as we waited for the<br />
round journey.<br />
“The best in Hanoi?”<br />
“Yes,” he replied, evidently unaccustomed<br />
to being interrogated by customers.<br />
“Is it more comfortable?”<br />
“It is the best bus.”<br />
Who Needs a Metro?<br />
Getting to and from the airport has never<br />
been fun but, unfortunately, not always<br />
boring. Taxi fares run well into six figures,<br />
while the minibuses keep unpredictable time<br />
schedules and prices. Until two months ago,<br />
no bus regularly ferried customers between<br />
Noi Bai and the city.<br />
Buses, of course, appear everywhere in<br />
the city. From city bus lines to international<br />
coaches with Laotian license plates, every<br />
casual Hanoi driver is well accustomed<br />
to navigating around the omnipresent,<br />
cumbersome hulks of steel careening down<br />
razor-thin side streets.<br />
The airport bus line, however, takes a more<br />
reasonable approach. Hop on at the train<br />
station and you’ll get to Noi Bai in about<br />
45 minutes. No planning is required — the<br />
first bus leaves downtown at 5.05am and the<br />
service keeps going until 9.40pm. You can<br />
catch a ride even later if you’re coming from<br />
the airport, with the last bus leaving at 11pm.<br />
Hanoi’s got big plans for shuttling<br />
its residents around town in a more<br />
orderly fashion. Construction of the<br />
much-anticipated metro system is visible<br />
throughout the city, while the municipality<br />
mulls over the possibility of banning<br />
motorbikes in the Old Quarter.<br />
The problem is no joke. Air pollution<br />
is beginning to compete with Beijing for<br />
toxicity, while crash fatalities constantly tick<br />
upward.<br />
In the meantime, however, the Hanoibus<br />
company has found a solution to one transit<br />
problem using the humble bus. — Bennett<br />
Murray<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 21
Briefings<br />
National<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong> Coracle<br />
The country by motorbike, one province at a time<br />
Tom is the London-born<br />
motorbiker behind<br />
independent travel blog<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong> Coracle. Having<br />
visited all of the country’s 58<br />
provinces and five municipalities,<br />
he’s amassed a huge database of<br />
guides to travelling <strong>Vietnam</strong>, and<br />
he’s still not done. <strong>Word</strong> got his<br />
views on motorbike machismo,<br />
sustainable tourism and where to<br />
find the best food.<br />
You first visited <strong>Vietnam</strong> as<br />
a teenager in 1999. What do<br />
you remember about that<br />
trip?<br />
Bicycles! In 1999, this was my<br />
first impression of <strong>Vietnam</strong>, while<br />
riding in a taxi from Tan Son Nhat<br />
Airport to the city centre. There were<br />
thousands of them: not motorbikes,<br />
not cars; bicycles.<br />
Where have you lived in<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>?<br />
I’ve paid rent in Saigon ever since I<br />
arrived, 10 years ago. I’m certainly<br />
not nomadic — I’ve always had a<br />
solid base; family, friends and a place<br />
to call ‘home’ — but I am a restless<br />
traveller, always thinking about my<br />
next trip.<br />
I was a bit shocked to<br />
discover that you drive a<br />
Yamaha Nuovo, which I<br />
always consider a bike for<br />
the city more than rural<br />
adventures.<br />
Ah yes, Stavros, my trusty<br />
motorbike. 150,000km over eight<br />
years, and I’ve rarely had any serious<br />
problems. It’s done everything<br />
I’ve asked of it; it’s smooth to ride;<br />
it rarely breaks down; and it has<br />
character, more so the older it gets.<br />
You focus a lot on food in<br />
your guides. What have been<br />
your favorite food finds on<br />
the road?<br />
The best food in <strong>Vietnam</strong> is nearly<br />
always found in the unlikeliest of<br />
places. The first time I ate hen, those<br />
little tiny clams in lemongrass and<br />
chilli, was in a corrugated iron shack,<br />
30km inland from Vinh, not far from<br />
Ho Chi Minh’s birth place in Kim Lien.<br />
Often, food tastes better precisely<br />
because of the unusual nature of the<br />
surroundings. I’m always suspicious<br />
of places that have clearly spent a lot<br />
of time and money on their decor and<br />
interior design: have they paid the same<br />
amount of attention to their food?<br />
Tourism in <strong>Vietnam</strong> is rapidly<br />
developing. Which destinations<br />
have you seen change<br />
the most?<br />
22 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
Phu Quoc stands out the most. When<br />
I first visited, there was only one<br />
paved road on the island. Now there<br />
are wide blades of tarmac leading<br />
in all directions. The southern end<br />
of Long Beach and Dai Beach, in<br />
the northwest of the island, were<br />
sublime spots, where you really were<br />
the only person on a long, golden<br />
stretch of sand. They are both subject<br />
to huge development projects now.<br />
What do you think <strong>Vietnam</strong><br />
needs to do to sustainably<br />
develop this industry?<br />
I like the initiatives that work with<br />
local people to promote tourism. Mai<br />
Chau did this well; encouraging the<br />
White Thai people, who live in that<br />
pretty valley, to open their traditional<br />
homes and way of life to foreign<br />
tourists in the form of homestays.<br />
Foreign travellers love this,<br />
because it fits their romantic idea<br />
of what rural <strong>Vietnam</strong> should<br />
be. But, increasingly, young,<br />
urban <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese, pining for the<br />
countryside and nostalgic for a<br />
way of life that belonged to former<br />
generations, also love it.<br />
Of course there are problems<br />
with this kind of tourism, too. These<br />
projects subsidise a traditional way<br />
of life that many rural people want<br />
to leave behind. But at least it works<br />
with local people, plays to their<br />
strengths by focusing on skills they<br />
already have, and they are the ones<br />
who benefit from it.<br />
What has been the most rewarding<br />
thing about keeping<br />
your blog?<br />
Now my travels have a purpose.<br />
Because of this, I am more engaged<br />
with <strong>Vietnam</strong>: its food, people,<br />
culture, history, landscape and<br />
language. And, because many of<br />
my guides focus of less trodden<br />
parts of <strong>Vietnam</strong>, I like to think that<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>’s tourist buck is spread out<br />
a little more evenly.<br />
Where are you headed on<br />
your next trip?<br />
I just got back from a road trip to the<br />
western Mekong Delta, so now I’m<br />
in need of some mountains or coast.<br />
On some trips, I have a clear idea<br />
of where I’m going and what I’m<br />
going to write about; other times, I<br />
take it as it comes and see where it<br />
leads me. I have more ideas than I<br />
have time for, and I’m certainly not<br />
worried that I’ll run out of things<br />
to do and places to see in <strong>Vietnam</strong>,<br />
ever. — Jesse Meadows<br />
To see Tom’s blog, click on<br />
vietnamcoracle.com<br />
PHOTOS PROVIDED BY VIETNAM CORACLE<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 23
Briefings<br />
National<br />
Battling the Sharks<br />
Is 4G the solution to <strong>Vietnam</strong>’s connectivity woes?<br />
Many internet users in <strong>Vietnam</strong><br />
have found themselves<br />
replugging their WiFi routers,<br />
trying to get a signal, before<br />
giving up and switching to their<br />
smartphone’s 3G. While tethering your<br />
laptop can be inconvenient — and<br />
expensive — will it be worth it when 4G<br />
finally arrives in <strong>Vietnam</strong>?<br />
At present the nation’s connectivity<br />
continues to expand and improve.<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>’s average connection speed in the<br />
first quarter of <strong>2016</strong> was 5.0 megabytes per<br />
second (Mbps) according to the US-based<br />
Akami tech firm. Yet this is still below<br />
Thailand, which ranks at 10.8Mbps and<br />
South Korea, a whopping 29Mbps.<br />
Mobile connection is also low at 2.6Mbps,<br />
ranking just below Syria’s 2.7Mbps.<br />
Signs of progress abound — <strong>Vietnam</strong>’s<br />
mobile connectivity rose 30.8 per cent in<br />
the first quarter.<br />
Viettel has reported it is already piloting<br />
4G on a trial basis around the country.<br />
With potential speeds ten times that of 3G,<br />
is better wireless a viable replacement for<br />
spotty WiFi?<br />
First, a disclaimer; 4G connections are<br />
only as fast as the infrastructure allows. If<br />
overburdened, 4G networks can actually<br />
be slower than 3G.<br />
There are also trade-offs in ditching<br />
routers for SIM cards and dongles.<br />
Unlimited data plans are the exception<br />
worldwide rather than the rule for wireless.<br />
At its maximum performance, however,<br />
4G easily beats <strong>Vietnam</strong>’s typical WiFi<br />
speed.<br />
The Myanmar Solution<br />
Go to Myanmar to find an example of a<br />
country that has largely dumped WiFi for<br />
mobile networks, albeit in the 3G era, where<br />
WiFi connectivity averages 3.7 Mbps.<br />
“I have sat in cafés that proudly advertise<br />
a WiFi connection, tethering my phone to<br />
my laptop to use 3G because the proudly<br />
advertised WiFi connection is either too<br />
weak to sustain a connection, or out<br />
altogether, or still aspirational,” says Eli<br />
Meixler, online editor at the Yangon-based<br />
Myanmar Times newspaper.<br />
He adds that few people have WiFi<br />
routers, which cost hundreds of dollars to<br />
install thanks to a monopoly in the market.<br />
While he did have one provided by his<br />
employer at his former apartment, he said<br />
he’d usually forego WiFi in favour of 3G.<br />
“It’s often easier or faster to just use a<br />
phone connected to 3G to send a quick<br />
email, post to social media, or check a<br />
reference resource, than it is to wait for a<br />
hard-lined connection to kick into gear,” he<br />
explains.<br />
Meixler says he had so little faith in<br />
Myanmar’s connectivity that he had been<br />
ready to rely on a multitude of 3G services<br />
while uploading live updates during last<br />
November’s historic election.<br />
He bought half a dozen SIM cards<br />
representing every telco in the country just<br />
in case his fibre-optic line failed, he adds.<br />
Thanks to an influx of smartphones<br />
in recent years, Meixler says wireless<br />
connections make the most sense for<br />
Myanmar.<br />
“I think that telco and wireless data<br />
networks are far better suited to meet<br />
Myanmar’s needs, from the perspective of<br />
consumers and in terms of technological<br />
infrastructure, than broadband connection,<br />
at least at this juncture,” he says.<br />
Smartphones are the future<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong> isn’t Myanmar, where even<br />
regular SIM cards were virtually nonexistent<br />
before 2013. But with even a cheap<br />
laptop still priced at a good chunk of<br />
personal income, the future of <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
connectivity probably won’t be focused on<br />
broadband.<br />
Anh-Minh Do, a <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese-American<br />
tech blogger currently based in Singapore,<br />
says consumer sentiment is on the side of<br />
technology suitable for smartphones.<br />
“I think it’s the trend because more<br />
people will be willing to buy a phone over<br />
a computer, especially in the countryside,”<br />
he explains. “It’s really just an issue of why<br />
would I get WiFi and a laptop when I can<br />
just have the internet in my pocket?”<br />
Regardless of whether 4G is a solution to<br />
dysfunctional WiFi, market forces appear to<br />
be on the side of developing wireless.<br />
— Bennett Murray<br />
24 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
Briefings<br />
HCMC<br />
PHOTOS BY BAO ZOAN<br />
Understanding Your Body<br />
The beauty market is big business, which is why it pays to seek out providers by<br />
reputation and transparency as well as price<br />
It’s not an uncommon tale — a Facebook<br />
page selling whitening cream, a customer<br />
ordering it, and finding, to their distress,<br />
that not only does the cream not work,<br />
but it is actually damaging.<br />
One such case last year in <strong>Vietnam</strong> made<br />
it to a VTV documentary. The customer, Vu<br />
Minh Thi, applied the cream which quickly<br />
caused her skin to break out in an itchy rash.<br />
“I decided to stop using the cream but it<br />
got worse,” she told VTV. Eventually, after<br />
unsuccessfully trying to get restitution from<br />
the supplier, she filed a lawsuit.<br />
Then there was 22-year-old Ngoc Bich,<br />
who was persuaded to try a trendy new<br />
beauty method called skin needling,<br />
supposedly the skin smoothing technique<br />
favoured by Angelina Jolie and Kim<br />
Kardashian.<br />
It involves moving a small roller fitted<br />
with around 200 surgical needles across the<br />
skin, the idea being that this stimulates the<br />
beneficial production of collagen and elastin<br />
and removes blemishes through the skin’s<br />
natural repair process. In Ngoc Bich’s case, it<br />
merely led to a nasty facial infection.<br />
A Cutting Edge<br />
Unsurprisingly, <strong>Vietnam</strong>’s cosmetic market<br />
is noted for lax regulation, products of<br />
dubious origin, and so-called beauty salons<br />
on every corner.<br />
“The most important thing is that you<br />
have to keep your mind sharp,” advises<br />
Valencia Tran, a veteran of the cosmetic<br />
market who is managing director of<br />
Thea Beauty Solutions. “Most cheap<br />
products don’t have clear labels of origin.<br />
Cheap services are usually conducted by<br />
inexperienced staff with cheap products and<br />
old technologies. Say no to them.”<br />
Valencia speaks from personal experience<br />
— she admits she tried everything to make<br />
herself look her best. Her advice? Get<br />
recommendations from friends, and above<br />
all, keep yourself informed.<br />
“Before buying a beauty product or going<br />
for surgery, you have to get reviews of<br />
that product or salon from friends and the<br />
media,” she explains. “Then you have to<br />
study this industry to understand how that<br />
product or process works.”<br />
Her experiences have also taught her that<br />
short-term solutions are a waste of time —<br />
you need to treat your health and beauty as<br />
an ongoing project.<br />
“Most importantly, you have to<br />
understand what your body needs and have<br />
a long-term plan to take care of your health<br />
and beauty. Be wise for your beauty.”<br />
A Personal Solution<br />
It is with this in mind that in 2013 Valencia<br />
established Thea Beauty Solutions. A<br />
Singapore-based company operating a<br />
chain of skincare and aesthetic clinics in Ho<br />
Chi Minh City, Thea Beauty offers a wide<br />
range of products and services including<br />
aesthetic surgery, cosmetic dermatology and<br />
other procedures like botox, snoring and<br />
apnea treatment, and hair removal. Also,<br />
to ensure standards remain high, Valencia<br />
has employed qualified beauty experts and<br />
doctors from Thailand, Korea and the US.<br />
Their <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese doctors are well-trained<br />
and fully qualified.<br />
In a market that lacks enforced<br />
regulations, for Valencia the key is to be<br />
self-regulating and ensure that all treatments<br />
are top-notch and are conducted with the<br />
long-term in mind. — Vu Ha Kim Vy<br />
Thea Beauty Solutions can be found at Ground<br />
Floor Somerset Chancellor Court, 21-23 Nguyen<br />
Thi Minh Khai, Q1, HCMC; 9C Thao Dien, Q2,<br />
HCMC and CR1-06 Crescent Residence, 103 Ton<br />
Dat Tien, Q7, HCMC. For info call their hotline<br />
on 0911 489797 or click on thea-clinic.com<br />
26 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 27
Sports<br />
Digest<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>’s First Gold<br />
The wait is over for Olympic glory, with <strong>Vietnam</strong>’s Hoang Xuan Vinh shooting to the<br />
top of the podium in Rio last month. <strong>Word</strong>s by Harry Hodge<br />
A<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese shooting star<br />
has struck gold, literally and<br />
figuratively.<br />
Hoang Xuan Vinh, a 41-yearold<br />
serving army colonel who first learnt<br />
to shoot with an AK47 rifle, made national<br />
history in Rio when a near-perfect final shot<br />
in the men’s 10-metre air pistol clinched<br />
him gold, the first Olympic title for any<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese athlete ever in any sport.<br />
Vinh’s victory swept aside Brazil’s Felipe<br />
Almeida Wu and China’s Pang Wei into<br />
second and third respectively, something<br />
that was seized on by overjoyed <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
fans.<br />
He followed that up by winning silver<br />
behind South Korea’s Jin Jong-oh in the<br />
Olympic men’s 50-metre pistol event four<br />
days later, becoming the first <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
athlete in history to win multiple Olympic<br />
medals, capping a huge week.<br />
Vinh has won many medals in<br />
tournaments in the country and in the SEA<br />
Games as well as Asian and world events.<br />
But losing out on medals in the Asian Games<br />
in 2010 and 2014 and the London Olympics<br />
in 2012, where he was 0.1 points off the<br />
podium at one point, all made him a dark<br />
horse to grab a medal in Rio.<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese state media reported that Vinh<br />
would receive US$100,000 (VND2.2 billion)<br />
from the state on his return. Media outlets<br />
said he learnt how to shoot in the military<br />
which he joined in 1991, initially practicing<br />
on AK47 rifles. His feat is all the more<br />
remarkable considering the lack of resources<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese shooters face, often having do<br />
without ammunition in training sessions.<br />
It stands to reason he will cash in more<br />
than any <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese amateur athlete has in<br />
the past.<br />
Prior to the Games, swimmer Nguyen<br />
Thi Anh Vien was splashed across <strong>Vietnam</strong><br />
Airlines ads among other endorsements. The<br />
20-year-old from Can Tho failed to advance<br />
beyond the heats in her various events.<br />
Shooter Vinh has already singlehandedly<br />
produced as many medals for <strong>Vietnam</strong> as the<br />
last two Games combined, where <strong>Vietnam</strong><br />
bagged two in Beijing in 2008 and came back<br />
empty-handed from London.<br />
The title of Olympic champion is among<br />
the most revered in sports, joining legends<br />
such as American Michael Phelps and<br />
Jamaican Usain Bolt.<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong> competed in multiple disciplines<br />
in Rio, including shooting, badminton,<br />
swimming, gymnastics, weightlifting, judo,<br />
wrestling, fencing, rowing and athletics.<br />
With more <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese athletes getting<br />
opportunities to train abroad and focus<br />
full-time on their sports, officials hope medal<br />
hauls will be even bigger in the future.<br />
28 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
Hai Phong ends<br />
five-year drought<br />
against Hanoi T&T<br />
Hai Phong ended their<br />
losing record against Hanoi<br />
T&T with a win last month<br />
in the V.League’s round<br />
20 on their home turf at<br />
Lach Tray Stadium, writes<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong> News.<br />
Hai Phong had not<br />
beaten Hanoi T&T in the<br />
last five years. They came<br />
from behind to record a 2-1<br />
victory, with two goals by<br />
Nguyen Dinh Bao and Le<br />
Xuan Hung in the second<br />
half.<br />
Hoang Vu Samson<br />
opened the score for the<br />
visitors on the 30th minute<br />
with a straight shot.<br />
Hai Phong stands<br />
strongly on top of the<br />
league with 45 points,<br />
five more than Hanoi<br />
T&T and six more than<br />
third-placed SHB Da Nang,<br />
who unexpectedly lost 3-4<br />
to Quang Nam, despite<br />
playing at home.<br />
Controversial end for<br />
women’s soccer<br />
Thailand’s female football<br />
team emerged victorious<br />
from the <strong>2016</strong> AFF Women’s<br />
Championship after a<br />
controversial penalty<br />
shootout against their<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese opponents last<br />
month, writes Tuoi Tre.<br />
Women from the<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese and Thai<br />
national football teams<br />
battled it out in the finals of<br />
the Southeast Asian football<br />
tournament in Mandalay,<br />
Myanmar.<br />
The official 90 minutes<br />
ended in a 1-1 draw,<br />
followed by a goalless extra<br />
time that led to a penalty<br />
shootout to determine the<br />
winning team.<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese midfielder<br />
Nguyen Thi Lieu from<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong> stepped up with<br />
the score at 3-3 hoping to<br />
help her team snatch the<br />
gold medal.<br />
Lieu’s strike was partially<br />
blocked by Thai goalie<br />
Waraporn Boonsing,<br />
causing the ball to spin,<br />
drop, and roll its way<br />
towards the goal line before<br />
being hacked away by the<br />
goalkeeper.<br />
Assuming the ball had<br />
crossed the goal line, Lieu,<br />
along with her teammates<br />
and coaches stormed the<br />
field to celebrate their<br />
victory before an interjection<br />
by the assisting referees.<br />
Thailand went on to win the<br />
match.<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese mixed<br />
martial artist locks up<br />
win in Malaysia<br />
Mixed martial artist Tran<br />
Quang Loc won the Mixed<br />
Martial Arts’s Grand Prix<br />
Warriors FC recently in<br />
Malaysia, according to<br />
vietnamnet.vn.<br />
Loc, who is the first<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese competing<br />
in an international MMA<br />
event, knocked out Farid<br />
Arif of Malaysia in the final<br />
match of the featherweight<br />
category.<br />
The 27-year-old from<br />
Dong Nai Province<br />
earlier defeated Shareh<br />
Nasrullah, another<br />
Malaysian, while Arif beat<br />
Nursultan Amangeldiev of<br />
Kazakhstan.<br />
Loc started competing<br />
in MMA four years ago<br />
and has dominated in the<br />
national championship for<br />
the past three years.<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese tennis<br />
star drops dramatic<br />
match on home turf<br />
Ly Hoang Nam was outsted<br />
from the <strong>Vietnam</strong> F3 Men’s<br />
Futures tennis tournament<br />
last month in Binh Duong<br />
Province, writes <strong>Vietnam</strong><br />
News.<br />
The host athlete lost 6-7,<br />
5-7 to Japanese Ito Yuichi<br />
who ranks No. 813 in the<br />
world, 49 places higher than<br />
Nam, in the second round.<br />
Nam took the first break<br />
point of the first set but<br />
Ito worked hard and won<br />
the crucial game when<br />
5-6 down, bringing the set<br />
to the tie break where he<br />
successfully won 7-3.<br />
The second set was<br />
nearly the same but Ito went<br />
up in the decisive moments<br />
to take it<br />
7-5.<br />
Send updates<br />
about your<br />
sporting group or<br />
event to harry@<br />
wordvietnam.com<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 29
Arm yourself with the flu shot<br />
before the flu gets you.<br />
HANOI<br />
51 Xuan Dieu,<br />
Tay Ho Dist<br />
(04) 3934 0666<br />
HO CHI MINH CITY<br />
167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia,<br />
Dist 3<br />
(08) 3829 8520<br />
VUNG TAU<br />
No 1<br />
Le Ngoc Han<br />
(064) 385 8776<br />
30 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 31
To Do<br />
list HCMC<br />
It’s<br />
<strong>September</strong><br />
and the busy<br />
season has<br />
returned. So,<br />
if you want<br />
to retain a<br />
modicum of<br />
inner peace,<br />
look away<br />
now!<br />
1<br />
2<br />
3<br />
1. Two of the artworks on sale at affordable art fair, One Grand Show<br />
2. Lord Peter Mandelson will be speaking at a BBGV event in <strong>September</strong><br />
3. Chef Jack Lee will be in charge of the kitchen at the fundraiser for KOTO<br />
4. Italian DJ Marco Shuttle will be playing Observatory this month<br />
5. A documentary on art, music and creativity in the former West Berlin will be screen on Sep. 9<br />
6. TAL Everything Something Nothing Flying Papers SEP16.jpg. Caption: Nomad will be bringing their production,<br />
Everything, Something, Nothing to Saigon Outcast<br />
One Grand Show<br />
Craig Thomas Gallery, Q1<br />
Until Sep. 21<br />
Craig Thomas Gallery is hosting<br />
One Grand Show, a group exhibition<br />
for 50 smaller sized works by 20<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese visual artists. The<br />
exhibit is modeled on the affordable<br />
art fair format; with the aim being to<br />
open up possibilities for collectors of<br />
all budgets to begin their acquisition<br />
of <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese contemporary art.<br />
One Grand Show will be held at<br />
Craig Thomas Gallery from Aug<br />
26. through to Sep. 21. For more<br />
information, please visit cthomasgallery.<br />
com. Craig Thomas Gallery is at 165<br />
Calmette, Q1, HCMC<br />
Small Things Exhibition<br />
Vin Gallery, Q2<br />
Until Oct. 15<br />
Coming Nov. 25 to Vin Gallery in<br />
Thao Dien is the latest Small Things<br />
exhibit; a collection of miniscule<br />
artworks created by local and<br />
international artists. Small Things<br />
is a recurring exhibition and<br />
showcases new artists every year<br />
featuring oil paintings, sculpture,<br />
photography and prints. To apply<br />
to be in the exhibition, you must<br />
submit your application by Oct. 15<br />
at the link below.<br />
For more information, please visit<br />
facebook.com/VinGallery or call 0907<br />
729846. Applications for the exhibition<br />
are available online at goo.gl/ywP6Yv<br />
and Vin Gallery is at 6 Le Van Mien,<br />
Q2, HCMC<br />
Lord Mandelson<br />
Le Meridien Saigon, Q1<br />
Thursday, Sep. 8<br />
EuroCham and BBGV are welcoming<br />
Lord Mandelson to Saigon this<br />
month to have him share his<br />
business perspectives surrounding<br />
the recent Brexit referendum,<br />
including observations from the<br />
past three months since the vote,<br />
and a predicted long-term forecast.<br />
There will also be industry experts<br />
speaking about the <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese and<br />
regional implications of the vote, as<br />
well as a panel discussion.<br />
Global Implications of Brexit: A<br />
Special Talk with Lord Mandelson<br />
will take place from 11.45am to<br />
1.30pm on Sep. 8, <strong>2016</strong>. Entrance<br />
costs VND1,300,000 for members and<br />
VND1,600,000 for non-members. For<br />
more information, please email nga.<br />
nguyen@bbgv.org. Le Meridien Saigon<br />
is at 3C Ton Duc Thang, Q1, HCMC<br />
KOTO One<br />
Reverie, Q1<br />
Friday, Sep. 9<br />
KOTO, the hospitality training<br />
centre and restaurant, will be<br />
holding a star-studded fundraiser<br />
at The Reverie Saigon on Friday,<br />
Sep. 9 to help them raise US$250,000<br />
towards the costs of running their<br />
operations.<br />
The first legally incorporated social<br />
enterprise in <strong>Vietnam</strong>, KOTO gives<br />
disadvantaged youth the possibility<br />
to learn and strive in their lives. In the<br />
past 15 years they have trained and<br />
supported the welfare of over 600<br />
students in the hospitality industry in<br />
both Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi.<br />
This year’s fundraiser, KOTO<br />
One, will team up the talents of<br />
celebrity chef Jack Lee with a<br />
range of well-known <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
singers and dancers. An auction<br />
will be staged by auctioneer<br />
Justin Gisz, with auction items<br />
including two signed Manchester<br />
United jerseys of French footballer<br />
Anthony Martial, business class<br />
return flights to Hong Kong with<br />
Cathay Pacific including five-star<br />
accommodation, a Mercedes Benz<br />
and much more. 400 people are<br />
expected to attend.<br />
32 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
4 5<br />
MAD HOUSE<br />
2ND LOCATION<br />
IS NOW OPEN<br />
IN DISTRICT 7<br />
6<br />
Tickets for the event are US$150<br />
(VND3.35 million) a head. To book,<br />
please call 0903 441850 / 0903<br />
077225 or pop into KOTO Kumho<br />
on the top floor of Kumho Plaza, cnr.<br />
Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, Q1,<br />
HCMC. The Reverie Saigon is at 22-<br />
36 Nguyen Hue, Q1, HCMC and<br />
the event runs from 7pm to 10pm<br />
Marco Shuttle<br />
The Observatory, Q4<br />
Friday, Sep. 9<br />
Renowned Italian DJ Marco<br />
Shuttle will be bringing his techno<br />
niche to Saigon this <strong>September</strong> for<br />
a session at everyone’s favourite<br />
late-night venue, The Observatory.<br />
Organised by Heart Beat Saigon,<br />
Shuttle has been described as<br />
devilishly distilled and expertly<br />
organic, focusing on form and<br />
function in equal measure.<br />
Supported by Chris Wolter and<br />
Oko, you can expect an evening<br />
of fantastic music and dancing.<br />
The show will be preceding by a<br />
documentary screening at 7.30pm<br />
curated by Onion Cellar.<br />
Entrance is free before 11pm<br />
and VND150,000 thereafter. The<br />
Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat<br />
Thanh, Q4, HCMC<br />
Onion Cellar<br />
The Observatory, Q4<br />
Friday, Sep. 9<br />
The Onion Cellar is proud to host a<br />
screening of B-Movie: Lust & Sound<br />
in West Berlin (1979 to 1989) for its<br />
official <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese premiere.<br />
This intense documentary<br />
uses unreleased film footage to<br />
create a fast-paced collage of the<br />
art, music and creative insanity<br />
during the last decade under the<br />
shadow of the Wall.<br />
Starring Mark Reeder, Nick<br />
Cave, Gudrun Gut and many<br />
others, this movie is a dive into<br />
the cheap and trashy, glitzy and<br />
glamorous, punk and techno<br />
melting pot that was 1980s Berlin.<br />
Immediately following the<br />
screening is a party by Heart Beat<br />
Saigon, featuring Marco Shuttle.<br />
Screening tickets are VND50,000.<br />
Combined movie and party tickets<br />
are VND150,000. The Observatory<br />
is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4 and<br />
the screening takes place at 7.30pm<br />
Art Jam Soft Opening<br />
VinSpace, Q2<br />
Sep. 9<br />
VinSpace is launching a new<br />
creative evening to help you tune<br />
into your inner artist, no matter<br />
what budget you’re on. Starting<br />
Sep. 9 at 6pm, they are promising<br />
a host of free activities as well<br />
as live music, craft beer and an<br />
opportunity to mingle with other<br />
creative minded people in Saigon.<br />
Art Jam is free to the public.<br />
For more information please visit<br />
vin-space.com or call 0907 229846.<br />
VinSpace is at 4 Le Van Mien, Q2,<br />
HCMC<br />
Everything, Something,<br />
Nothing<br />
Saigon Outcast, Q2<br />
Sep. 13 to 16<br />
Everything, Something, Nothing<br />
is a brand new physical theatre<br />
performance put on by the<br />
Nomad Theatre Company<br />
that will be making its debut<br />
over the course of four days in<br />
mid-<strong>September</strong>.<br />
Before the performances<br />
start at 7pm, there will be an<br />
exhibition of painters, sculptors,<br />
musicians, videographers,<br />
dancers and actors from across<br />
Saigon to help showcase the<br />
city’s creativity in a week of art.<br />
Nomad Theatre Company<br />
MAD House D7<br />
E VERYDAY FROM<br />
11AM - 10PM<br />
No.2 street C,Tan Phu Ward, Dist 7<br />
2nd floor at Capri by Fraser<br />
08 5417 1234<br />
Facebook.com/MADhouseD7<br />
MAD House D2<br />
E VERYDAY FROM<br />
08AM - 10PM<br />
6/1/2 Nguyen U Di,<br />
Thao Dien, Dist 2<br />
08 3519 4009<br />
Facebook.com/MADsaigon
To Do<br />
list HCMC<br />
lives as it is named, from place to<br />
place, and they are currently on a<br />
world tour with their work inspired<br />
by their experiences across the globe.<br />
Entrance to Everything, Something,<br />
Nothing is free of charge. For more info<br />
email nomadx@outlook.com or visit<br />
facebook.com/nomadtheatrex. Saigon<br />
Outcast is at 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong,<br />
Q2, HCMC<br />
Sweet B<br />
Observatory, Q4<br />
Saturday, Sep. 17<br />
1<br />
French duo Sweet B will play alongside<br />
Youss and Dimitri for a night of music<br />
that synthesizes the best of house, disco<br />
and techno. Back by popular demand<br />
for their third appearance together,<br />
come check out the musical madness<br />
these partners spin out.<br />
Entrance is free before 10pm<br />
and VND100,000 thereafter. The<br />
Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh,<br />
Q4, HCMC<br />
Clay of Thought<br />
Fine Arts Museum, Q1<br />
Sep. 22 to Oct. 1<br />
1. French duo Sweet B returns to Observatory<br />
2. Ceramic arts will come into focus this month at the Fine Arts Museum<br />
3. Cora will be spinning tunes at Observatory this month<br />
4. Yes, he’s back! It’s Alex from Tokyo again!<br />
5. Last year’s BBGV Fun Run. The <strong>2016</strong> edition takes place on Sep. 25<br />
6. Fancy a ride around town to raise money for charity, old chap?<br />
The Fine Arts Museum of Ho Chi<br />
Minh City is hosting Clay of Thought,<br />
an exhibition of contemporary<br />
ceramics created by an art collective<br />
based in Bien Hoa. Entitled Dat Nghi<br />
in <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese, the showcase displays<br />
the work of 14 artists who, by pooling<br />
their energy, talents and ideals,<br />
have formed a collective to rethink<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese ceramics, its heritage and<br />
its future. The exhibition has been<br />
curated by Vo Hong Chuong Dai and<br />
Frederic Dialynas Sanchez.<br />
Clay of Thought will have its opening<br />
night on Thursday, Sep. 22 at the Fine Arts<br />
Museum of Ho Chi Minh City. For more<br />
information, please email frederic.joseph.<br />
sanchez@gmail.com or chvo29@gmail.com.<br />
The Fine Arts Museum of HCMC is at 97<br />
Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, HCMC<br />
Cora and Kin<br />
Observatory, Q4<br />
Thursday, Sep. 22<br />
Cora and Kin are coming, bringing a<br />
melange of house and techno to lead<br />
the dance floor through the deepest,<br />
darkest valleys of the electronic<br />
landscape.<br />
Entrance is free of charge and the<br />
show starts at 9pm. The Observatory is<br />
at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC<br />
Alex From Tokyo<br />
Observatory, Q4<br />
Friday, Sep. 23<br />
Alex From Tokyo returns for his<br />
third Observatory performance.<br />
Come see this legend of the<br />
2<br />
underground sound move the room<br />
with music cut like diamonds.<br />
Entrance is free before 10pm<br />
and VND150,000 thereafter. The<br />
Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh,<br />
Q4, HCMC<br />
BBGV Fun Run<br />
Phu My Huong, Q7<br />
Sunday, Sep. 25<br />
The BBGV Annual Charity Fun Run<br />
is back for its 16th edition. Since<br />
starting in 2000, the fun run has been<br />
a popular event to break a sweat and<br />
raise some money for disadvantaged<br />
people throughout <strong>Vietnam</strong>. This<br />
is the perfect opportunity for team<br />
building, bonding with friends or<br />
family, all the while assisting the<br />
disadvantaged and elderly.<br />
This year’s 4km run will take place<br />
in Phu My Hung and 9,000 runners<br />
are expected to take part. The BBGV<br />
are hoping to raise VND1 billion in<br />
support of charitable projects. Recent<br />
beneficiaries have included the Ben<br />
San Leprosy Centre.<br />
For more information about how to<br />
get involved in the BBGV Fun Run<br />
please contact Nga at nga.nguyen@<br />
bbgv.org, call (08) 3829 8430 or go to<br />
ticketbox.vn. The run takes place from<br />
7am to 10.30am and will start at Tan<br />
Trao, Phu My Hung, Q7, HCMC<br />
Distinguished Gentlemen’s<br />
Ride<br />
Sunday, Sep. 26<br />
Around HCMC<br />
I say! You, dear reader, display<br />
the very countenance of<br />
distinguishment itself. No doubt<br />
you are thusly aware of the<br />
Distinguished Gentlemen’s Ride, a<br />
grand opportunity to promenade<br />
in your finest Savile Row suit<br />
and demonstrate the charitable<br />
persuasion so befitting your<br />
station.<br />
Come with classic and vintage<br />
motor-operated cyclo-mobiles and<br />
ride with other gentlemen and<br />
ladies to raise awareness about the<br />
health issues of all good gentlemen<br />
around the world. Many charities<br />
will benefit from your noblesse<br />
oblige, specifically those that<br />
research prostate cancer and seek<br />
to prevent male suicide.<br />
If you wish to participate in the<br />
Distinguished Gentlemen’s annual<br />
ride here in HCMC, contact <strong>Vietnam</strong><br />
Vespa Adventures on 01222 993585<br />
/ 09385 00997 or email lets@<br />
ridevespas.com. More info can be<br />
found at gentlemansride.com and<br />
on the event page at facebook.com/<br />
events/1210637482289374. The ride<br />
kicks off at 2pm<br />
34 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
3<br />
5<br />
4<br />
6<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 35
To Do<br />
list HCMC<br />
Quoc Cham<br />
Cassia Cottage, Phu Quoc<br />
Wednesday, Sep. 28<br />
Co-sponsored by the Australian<br />
Chamber of Commerce <strong>Vietnam</strong> and<br />
Visit Phu Quoc, Quoc Cham is Phu<br />
Quoc’s only business networking<br />
event. Held on the last Wednesday<br />
of the month, and loosely modelled<br />
on Spam Cham in Saigon, the event<br />
is an opportunity to socialise with<br />
people whose business involves<br />
the fast-changing metropolis, sorry,<br />
island of Phu Quoc.<br />
Each month features a guest<br />
speaker, a main topic, cheap drinks<br />
and free snacks.<br />
For more information, email Rohan<br />
Barker at rohan@visitphuquoc.info. The<br />
<strong>September</strong> meet-up runs from 5.30pm to<br />
8pm and is being held at Cassia Cottage,<br />
Khu Pho 1, Duong Dong, Phu Quoc<br />
1<br />
3<br />
Eluize and Gratts<br />
Observatory, Q4<br />
Friday, Sep. 30<br />
1. Phu Quoc is not all just beaches, clear blue sea and construction, don’t you know?<br />
2. Who needs to stay in the office when you’ve got Auscham’s annual golf scramble?<br />
3. Start-up incubator Hatch Fair enters Saigon for the first time next month<br />
4. Oktoberfest returns for its 11th outing<br />
5. Images from last year’s Heart Institute Gala<br />
Eluize and Gratts are joined by<br />
Hibiya Line, returning after a redhot<br />
performance earlier in the year,<br />
to deliver another night of their<br />
house/disco/techno fusion. Send<br />
off the month in finest underground<br />
style — don’t miss this party!<br />
Entrance is free before 10pm<br />
and VND150,000 thereafter. The<br />
Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh,<br />
Q4, HCMC<br />
Grand Final Golf Scramble<br />
5 Locations Across <strong>Vietnam</strong><br />
Friday, Sep. 30<br />
Every year, AusCham brings<br />
members of the business<br />
community together outside<br />
the office at their Grand Final<br />
Golf Scramble. Taking place<br />
simultaneously in five locations<br />
across <strong>Vietnam</strong> on Sep. 30 on the<br />
eve of the AFL Grand Final, the<br />
event is for anyone who has a<br />
business tie to Australia. The goal is<br />
to strengthen the community and to<br />
heighten awareness of Australia as<br />
a place where businesses thrive.<br />
Come join the fun at the <strong>Vietnam</strong><br />
Golf and Country Club in Ho Chi<br />
Minh City, the BRG Legend Hill Golf<br />
Resort in Hanoi, Laguna Lang Co<br />
near Danang, Vinpearl Golf in Nha<br />
Trang or at Vinpeal Golf in Phu Quoc<br />
to get your respectable business-class<br />
Ozzie Ozzie Oy Oy on.<br />
Any profits will be donated to<br />
charity.<br />
To learn more, email events@<br />
auschamvn.org or visit the Australian<br />
Chamber of Commerce <strong>Vietnam</strong> website<br />
at auschamvn.org.<br />
2<br />
Hatch Fair<br />
Grand Palace, Tan Binh<br />
Oct. 7 and Oct. 8<br />
Hatch, the most established start up<br />
incubator in <strong>Vietnam</strong> is bringing its<br />
fourth annual Hatch fair to Ho Chi<br />
Minh City for the first time. This<br />
October, we can expect a full two days<br />
of start-up development, conferences,<br />
social innovation and networking.<br />
Previous Hatch fairs have drawn<br />
crowds of up to 2,500 people all<br />
curious about the start-up climate in<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong> and developing their own<br />
entrepreneurial ideas.<br />
For more information, please email<br />
fair@hatchfair.vn or visit their website<br />
at fair.hatch.vn. The Grand Palace is at<br />
142/18 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh, HCMC<br />
Oktoberfest<br />
Windsor Plaza Hotel, Q5<br />
Oct. 12 to Oct. 15<br />
Oktoberfest is coming back to Saigon<br />
for its eleventh annual outing.<br />
Touching down on Oct. 12, four<br />
days of beer, food and music will<br />
follow in a true celebration of all<br />
things Bavarian. Free flow beer,<br />
classic pretzels, German sausages and<br />
traditional music will get party-goers<br />
in the Oktoberfest mood, and every<br />
guest will receive their own collectable<br />
bierstein as well as an opportunity to<br />
win a Mercedes C200 and a Vespa LX.<br />
The parties run from 6pm to Midnight.<br />
On Wednesday, Oct. 12 and Thursday,<br />
Oct. 13, tickets cost VND1,000,000. On<br />
Friday, Oct. 14 and Saturday, Oct. 15<br />
they go for VND1,300,000. There is a 30<br />
percent early bird discount available until<br />
Sep. 30. Tickets are available online at<br />
oktoberfestvietnam.com or via telephone<br />
on 0908 477489. Windsor Plaza Hotel is<br />
at 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, HCMC<br />
The Heart Institute Charity<br />
Gala<br />
The Reverie, Q1<br />
Saturday, Oct. 15<br />
The Heart Institute of Ho Chi Minh<br />
City and the International Medical<br />
Center (CMI) are hosting the 6th Heart<br />
Institute Gala at The Reverie Saigon.<br />
This year the dress code is chic and<br />
glamourous, and the evening will<br />
consist of five courses of French-<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese cuisine cooked up by<br />
Chef Sakal, as well as live and silent<br />
auctions, live performances and<br />
entertainment. All proceeds of the gala<br />
will fund cardiac surgeries for children<br />
in desperate need of heart surgery.<br />
The Heart Insitute Gala will take place<br />
at The Reverie Saigon on Saturday, Oct.<br />
15 at 6.30pm. Tickets cost VND3,900,000<br />
for one person or VND35,000,000 for a<br />
table of 10. For more information, email<br />
s.veyron@cmi-vietnam.com or call (08)<br />
3827 2366. The Reverie Saigon is at 22-36<br />
Nguyen Hue, Q1, HCMC<br />
36 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
4 5<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 37
Just<br />
IN<br />
HCMC<br />
Dumpling<br />
houses,<br />
Mexican<br />
restaurants,<br />
skiing in<br />
Japan, new<br />
butcher<br />
shops and<br />
a book of<br />
short stories.<br />
All that's<br />
vien d’arrivé<br />
in Saigon<br />
1 2<br />
1. Sancho Cantina: Bui Vien has finally got itself a decent Mexican<br />
2. Asian-inspired fare comes to Thao Dien courtesy of Phat’s Dumpling House<br />
3. Saigon Artbook publishes its sixth edition this month<br />
4. Anupa has a line of weekend bags, perfect for anyone travelling in style<br />
5. Hats off to the ISHCMC Class of <strong>2016</strong><br />
Sancho Cantina<br />
The brains behind Pop Fries, Calvin<br />
Bui, has opened his newest concept,<br />
a restaurant with a Mexican kitchen<br />
on Bui Vien that includes craft<br />
beer as part of the theme. Set in<br />
a friendly and cozy atmosphere,<br />
Sancho Cantina serves up tacos<br />
(VND40,000), nachos (VND170,000),<br />
flautas (VND100,000), carne asada<br />
fries (VND170,000) and burritos<br />
(VND180,000 for an extra large).<br />
What makes Sancho Cantina different<br />
from other Tex-Mex pretenders is that<br />
everything is made in house. “Every<br />
morning, I come in and start making<br />
tortillas and sauces for the day. I feel<br />
like an abuela!” says Calvin.<br />
Craft beer on tap comes from Phat<br />
Rooster Ales and includes Saigon<br />
Blonde (VND35,000 for 330ml), Phat<br />
Shiv IPA (VBD50,000) and Band<br />
Unkel (VND50,000).<br />
Sancho Cantina is at 207 Bui<br />
Vien, Q1, HCMC. Visit facebook.com/<br />
sanchocantina for more info<br />
Phat’s Dumpling House<br />
Thao Dien has just welcomed a new<br />
Asian-inspired restaurant, Phat’s<br />
Dumpling House, a door over from<br />
its sister restaurant, Relish & Sons.<br />
Painted all in white with large glass<br />
windows and branded with a chubby<br />
face of Phat next to the restaurant’s<br />
name, the restaurant is small but<br />
neat, decorated with Asian movie<br />
posters on the walls and furnished<br />
with wooden tables and stools.<br />
The menu consists of about 40<br />
dishes including banh bao (VND70,000<br />
for roasted duck bao), dumplings<br />
(VND55,000 for pork & prawn<br />
dumpling), soups (VND90,000 for<br />
roasted duck noodles), and fries<br />
(VND50,000 for prawn sesame<br />
toast). The drinks list has three main<br />
categories and includes juices and soft<br />
drinks, tea and coffee (VND35,000<br />
for oolong tea) and alcoholic drinks<br />
(VND55,000 for a Tiger).<br />
Phat’s Dumpling House is at 111<br />
Xuan Thuy, Q1, HCMC. Visit facebook.<br />
com/phatsdumplinghouse for info<br />
Loop Set Lunch<br />
The Loop on Thao Dien, has just<br />
released a new ‘wholesome’ set<br />
lunch menu and it looks awesome.<br />
With two options, either two or three<br />
courses, this affordable lunch will get<br />
you through any working day. The<br />
two-course meal will set you back<br />
VND199,000 while the three-course<br />
version costs only VND239,000.<br />
Dishes include Ezogelin soup, Parma<br />
ham and anchovy salad, garlic herb<br />
roasted salmon, tomato spinach<br />
lasagna, pork cotoletta and Italian<br />
gelato, and you get to pick your own<br />
combinations<br />
The Loop Café is located at 49 Thao<br />
Dien, Q2, HCMC and is open from 7am<br />
to 9pm, seven days a week. For info click<br />
on theloop.vn<br />
Saigon Artbook<br />
Saigon Artbook is back for its sixth<br />
edition with a launch party at the<br />
Factory Contemporary Arts Center<br />
on Sep. 16.<br />
A number of artists are included<br />
in the new book including Nguyen<br />
Ngoc Vu, <strong>Word</strong> photographer Boa<br />
Zoan, Nguyen Duc Diem, Nathan<br />
Larson and Kumkum Fernando. All<br />
will exhibit their work at the launch<br />
which will be an eclectic range of<br />
installations, origami, photography,<br />
painting and print works.<br />
Saigon Artbook is a non-profit<br />
organisation that utilises their artbook<br />
format as a platform to host a variety<br />
of events across the city, including<br />
workshops, exhibitions and art talks.<br />
The Factory Contemporary Arts Center<br />
(FCAC) is located at 15 Nguyen U Di,<br />
Q2, HCMC and the launch will run from<br />
8pm to midnight. For more information or<br />
to order your copy of Saigon Artbook, click<br />
on saigonartbook.org<br />
Anupa<br />
Travel in style — stop by Anupa and<br />
38 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
3<br />
4<br />
5<br />
get one of their weekender bags,<br />
just right for air travel. Matching<br />
accessories include belts, passport<br />
covers, luggage labels and<br />
washbags. Or pick up one of their<br />
stunning Jules passport covers<br />
for VND1.3 million, designed<br />
to fit all standard international<br />
passport sizes, and watch even<br />
immigration officers smile.<br />
Anupa is 9 Dong Du, Q1,<br />
HCMC or online at anupa.net<br />
International School Ho Chi<br />
Minh City’s Class of <strong>2016</strong><br />
The Class of <strong>2016</strong> at the<br />
International School of Ho Chi<br />
Minh City (ISHCMC) has set the<br />
new highest average IB diploma<br />
score in the institution’s history.<br />
In addition, more than half<br />
the class earned the IB Bilingual<br />
Diploma, maintaining the<br />
school’s reputation for excellence.<br />
19 nationalities are represented<br />
in this year’s class of 60 students,<br />
marking ISHCMC as a truly<br />
international school.<br />
Graduates will be attending<br />
further education in places as far<br />
flung as New York University,<br />
Seoul National University,<br />
University College London,<br />
UCLA and California Berkeley.<br />
For more info click on ishcmc.com
Just<br />
IN<br />
HCMC<br />
1<br />
2<br />
3<br />
1. Phu My Hung gets itself a Meatworks<br />
2. Fancy some skiing, anyone?<br />
3. The latest novel by Hoi An-based author, Elka Ray<br />
Meatworks<br />
That District 2 butcher, Meatworks,<br />
that has lined the fridges and<br />
stomachs of so many a resident in<br />
Thao Dien, is opening a new location<br />
next month in the heart of Phu My<br />
Hung in District 7.<br />
Featuring the same quality range<br />
of premium imported Australian<br />
beef and lamb, gourmet locallysourced<br />
pork and chicken, as well as<br />
their own phenomenal home-made<br />
sausages, Meatworks offers online<br />
shopping and home-delivery.<br />
The new shop is next door to Carl’s<br />
Junior at 401 Pham Thai Buong, My<br />
Khanh 3-H11-2, Q7, HCMC. You can<br />
visit them online at meatworksasia.com<br />
Go Skiing In Japan<br />
‘Tis the end of the summer, the<br />
perfect time to start thinking about<br />
your next holiday. And naturally<br />
homegrown travel agency, Exo<br />
Travel, has got an idea to get you<br />
reaching for your credit card and<br />
booking time off work: a snowcation<br />
in Hokkaido. Or, as other<br />
people might say, skiing in Japan.<br />
Shred some of the best powder<br />
in the world, feast on authentic<br />
Hokkaido cuisine, and get a taste<br />
of pure sybaritic bliss this winter at<br />
Club Med Sahoro, Hokkaido, Japan.<br />
The holiday package features a stay<br />
for as low as VND4.816 million per<br />
person per night and includes lift<br />
passes and lessons.<br />
If you are travelling between Dec.<br />
2, <strong>2016</strong> and April 9, 2017, book early<br />
to get the best deals or, as Exo is<br />
asking, book before Sep. 16.<br />
To learn more email saigonagency@<br />
exotravel.com or call (08) 3519 4111. If<br />
you’re in Hanoi, call (04) 3718 5555 or<br />
email xuandieu@exotravel.com<br />
What You Don’t Know<br />
Hoi An-based novelist Elka Ray<br />
is back with her latest title, What<br />
You Don’t Know: Tales of Obsession,<br />
Mystery & Muder in Southeast Asia.<br />
An American lawyer dreams of<br />
murdering his Thai trophy wife.<br />
A <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese soldier encounters<br />
madness in a haunted forest.<br />
Tragedy rocks a bereaved mother’s<br />
trip to Cambodia. This collection of<br />
10 short, gripping and eerie stories<br />
journeys from Sumatran jungles<br />
to the seedy bars of Bangkok to<br />
the superficially sedate streets of<br />
Singapore.<br />
Travelling with you is a black<br />
brew of fear, greed, grief, jealousy,<br />
lust and wrath. And your final<br />
destination? What you don’t know…<br />
This collection is darker than Elka<br />
Ray’s first novel, Hanoi Jane, and<br />
takes readers on a journey from the<br />
macabre to the blackly humorous.<br />
What You Don’t Know is available<br />
in paperback or on Kindle via Amazon.<br />
com. Elka Ray has been living in<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong> for 20 years. For more info<br />
click on elkaray.com<br />
40 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
To Do<br />
list Hanoi<br />
Film and<br />
dance, bigname<br />
DJs,<br />
Basque<br />
musicians<br />
and corporate<br />
hippies.<br />
Hanoi’s<br />
got a bit of<br />
everything<br />
this month<br />
1<br />
1. An image from the movie Victoria, a highlight of the German Film Festival<br />
2. Basque musician Fermin Muguruza will play the Rec Room<br />
3. German duo Kaiser Souzai are descending on HRC<br />
4. Market is back for the new season<br />
The German Film Festival<br />
Goethe-Institut <strong>Vietnam</strong>, Ba Dinh<br />
Sep. 8 to Sep. 16<br />
Eight films are on the list for this<br />
year’s German Film Festival,<br />
offering a versatile mix of dramas,<br />
thrillers, comedies and children’s<br />
movies. A highlight is expected to<br />
be the emo-tionally charged 2015<br />
film Victoria from director Sebastian<br />
Schipper, with its heavy use of<br />
improvisation by the actors and its<br />
real-time emphasis.<br />
Now in its seventh year, the<br />
festival also features a quiz, where<br />
visitors can win prizes by answering<br />
questions about the films which are<br />
screened. Tickets are free and the<br />
films are screened in German with<br />
English and <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese subtitles.<br />
For the quiz and more information on<br />
the complete schedule in all cities visit<br />
goethe.de/german-filmfestival-vietnam.<br />
The festival will also hit Hai Phong, Hue,<br />
Danang and Ho Chi Minh City. Goethe-<br />
Institut <strong>Vietnam</strong> is at 56-58 Nguyen<br />
Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Hanoi<br />
Fermin Muguruza<br />
Rec Room, Hai Ba Trung<br />
Friday, Sep. 9<br />
One of the most influential and<br />
charismatic artists from the Basque<br />
musical scene, over the past 20 years<br />
Fermin Muguruza has played in<br />
almost every corner of the world.<br />
Now he will perform for the first time<br />
in <strong>Vietnam</strong>. From the bands Kortatu<br />
and Negu Gorriak to his new project<br />
with Japanese DJ Txako, expect a<br />
sound system influenced night of ska,<br />
punk and dub. Support will come<br />
from MiNombreEsDolores! (Chile)<br />
and Emiin Crew (<strong>Vietnam</strong>).<br />
Entrance is VND100,000 and Rec<br />
Room is at Floor 20, Hanoi Creative City,<br />
1 Luong Yen, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi<br />
Kaiser Souzai<br />
Hanoi Rock City, Tay Ho<br />
Saturday, Sep. 10<br />
Luminous Showcase, a night by<br />
GingerWork, will be returning for<br />
the second of their series of events<br />
headlined by a well-known DJ or act<br />
from overseas.<br />
With a night that includes a<br />
film screening, the video mapping<br />
installations of GingerWork and<br />
Nikolaj Svennevig, supporting DJs,<br />
a colouring corner and a top notch<br />
sound system, for the Sep. 10 event<br />
Luminous Showcase will be bringing<br />
in the Berlin Underground duo,<br />
Kaiser Souzai.<br />
Making concrete waves<br />
throughout the Berlin underground<br />
and carving a reputation<br />
internationally with their live<br />
performances, Kaiser Souzai initially<br />
began as a music collaboration that<br />
established their own musical genre,<br />
Art-rock Tech, drawing influence<br />
from 1970s greats such as Pink Floyd,<br />
Genesis and Yes, while keeping to<br />
their roots of deep and progressive<br />
techno. The result has been an<br />
ever-evolving set that has electrified<br />
dancefloors across the globe.<br />
In 2014 and 2015 the duo travelled<br />
from Belgium to New Zealand,<br />
Thailand to Berlin; the end of their<br />
New Zealand tour saw them headline<br />
alongside the legendary Carl Cox.<br />
Kaiser Souzai are big.<br />
Find out if they are worth the hype<br />
by heading down to Hanoi Rock City<br />
(27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Hanoi)<br />
on Sep. 10. Entrance is VND150,000<br />
(VND130,000 concessions) and includes<br />
a free welcome drink<br />
Maison Market Season<br />
Opener<br />
Maison de Tet Decor, Tay Ho<br />
Sunday, Sep. 11<br />
The stalls of Maison Market are<br />
back in full swing this month, with a<br />
collection of vendors selling products<br />
including edgy designs, handmade<br />
crafts, jewellery, vintage garments as<br />
well as an organic farmers’ market<br />
hosted at Maison de Tet Décor’s<br />
French villa on the banks of West Lake.<br />
42 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
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wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 43
To Do<br />
list Hanoi<br />
1<br />
3<br />
2<br />
1. The C-Gap Project will run a programme on awareness, balance and empowerment at Clickspace<br />
2. The Hanoi Dance Festival returns for its sixth outing<br />
3. Resident DJs Graz and Ouissam will be spinning tunes at the Savage Opening Party<br />
4. Tvfrom86 aka Thomas Zander will take over the decks at ATK<br />
5. Proceeds from the Blossom River Run will go to HSCV’s Blossom House for Girls<br />
Visitors have the opportunity to<br />
chat with the artists directly, pick up<br />
some great quality items at bargain<br />
prices, and enjoy the local community<br />
atmosphere. Healthy food and<br />
drinks are available on Maison’s cosy<br />
balconies<br />
The market runs from 10am to 4pm<br />
and Maison de Tet Décor is at Villa 156<br />
Tu Hoa, Tay Ho, Hanoi<br />
Vision Thing<br />
Clickspace, Tay Ho<br />
Sunday, Sep. 11<br />
A challenging life skills course<br />
answering the question “What’s<br />
The Point?” will land in Hanoi early<br />
next month. The course, known as<br />
the C-GAP Project, describes itself<br />
as a “no-bullshit approach to living<br />
an aware, balanced and empowered<br />
life with improved out-comes for all<br />
involved.”<br />
Run by former Hanoi expat,<br />
Tim McMahon, the course is<br />
intended to enable people to tap<br />
into their awareness, balance and<br />
empowerment, and unearth hidden<br />
potential at the per-sonal and<br />
corporate levels. The course runs<br />
from 1pm to 5pm.<br />
More information call 0969 401941,<br />
email hello@corporate-hippy.com or<br />
click on corporate-hippy.com/the-c-gapproject.<br />
Clickspace is at 76 To Ngoc Van,<br />
Tay Ho, Hanoi<br />
Europe Dances Into Asia<br />
National Youth Theatre, Hai Ba<br />
Trung and Star Galaxy Theatre, Dong<br />
Da<br />
Sep. 21 to Sep. 25<br />
The sixth Hanoi Dance Festival,<br />
coordinated by the Goethe-Institut, has<br />
as this year’s theme “Europe meets<br />
Asia in Contemporary Dance”. Over<br />
six days, audiences can experience<br />
contemporary dance in a variety<br />
of styles from different countries:<br />
Germany, France, Israel, Japan, Austria<br />
as well as the host country <strong>Vietnam</strong>.<br />
A highlight is the co-production of<br />
German dancer and choreographer<br />
Riki von Falken and the moving-image<br />
artist Nguyen Trinh Thi from Hanoi.<br />
Tickets cost VND100,000.<br />
Information about each day’s<br />
programme is available at hanoidancefestival.com.<br />
The Hanoi Dance Festival will be<br />
staged at the National Youth Theatre, 11<br />
Ngo Thi Nham, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi<br />
and Star Galaxy Theatre, 87 Lang Ha,<br />
Dong Da, Hanoi<br />
Savage Opening Party<br />
Savage, Tay Ho<br />
Friday, Sep. 23<br />
The latest venue to open up in Tay<br />
Ho will be staging its official opening<br />
party on Friday, Sep. 23 with club<br />
residents, Graz and Ouissam, spinning<br />
the tunes back-to-back, all night long.<br />
Growing up in Byron Bay,<br />
Australia, Graz has worked for<br />
prestige fashion clients like Louis<br />
Vuitton and Stella McCartney, set the<br />
stage for legends like Prince, spun at<br />
festivals such as the Big Day Out and<br />
Splendour, and rocked every disco<br />
den worth sweating at.<br />
Ouissam Mokretar, a Frenchman<br />
who until recently resided in Hong<br />
Kong, is the founder of Cliché Records<br />
and is also a promoter and a music<br />
curator. Ouissam DJs himself, which<br />
of course is the foundation of all<br />
his endeavours, and is a regular at<br />
multiple top underground clubs in<br />
Southeast Asia. He was also one of<br />
the key DJs at Clicheé events in Hong<br />
Kong, which have gained a loyal<br />
following.<br />
Savage has already got tongues<br />
wagging and butts dancing. So expect<br />
this night to be a big ‘un.<br />
Savage is at 112 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,<br />
44 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
4<br />
5<br />
Hanoi or online at savage-hanoi.com<br />
TvFrom86<br />
CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung<br />
Saturday, Sep. 24<br />
After the release of his first EP, Losing<br />
You on Roche Musique in April<br />
2013, Tvfrom86 aka Thomas Zander<br />
gained well-earned fame with the<br />
release reaching 400,000 clicks on<br />
Spotify. He has since worked with<br />
Parisian label Popcorn Records and<br />
at the end of October 2014, released<br />
the EP, Purple People. Known for his<br />
great use of samples and unique<br />
interpretations of electro funk mixed<br />
with house, expect this to be a unique<br />
night of Parisian-influenced beats.<br />
Doors are at 8pm and entrance is<br />
VND80,000. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai<br />
Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi<br />
Blossom River Run<br />
VIP Bikes, Tay Ho<br />
Sunday, Sep. 25<br />
Humanitarian Services for Children<br />
of <strong>Vietnam</strong> (HSCV) and VIP Bikes<br />
have teamed up for a motorbike day<br />
out on Sep. 25 called the Blossom<br />
River Run. Tour guides will set off<br />
from VIP Bikes in West Lake in the<br />
late morning and head over the river<br />
for a scenic drive along the Red River,<br />
stopping along the way at historical<br />
sites and spectacular pagodas for<br />
photo opportunities.<br />
A buffet lunch will be served at<br />
La Bodega, and after the run, there<br />
will be a BBQ at a loca-tion in the<br />
Tay Ho area.<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 45
To Do<br />
list Hanoi<br />
The price is VND200,000 per<br />
rider, with proceeds going to<br />
HSCV’s Blossom House for Girls.<br />
Buffet and BBQ are not included in<br />
this price.<br />
Registration and information are<br />
available at hscv.info@hscv.org or at<br />
VIP Bikes, 17 Ve Ho, Tay Ho, Hanoi<br />
Lust in Wild West Berlin<br />
Goethe-Institut, Ba Dinh<br />
Tuesday, Sep. 27<br />
The chaotic and wild music and<br />
arts scene in 1980s West Berlin is<br />
the subject of the docu-mentary<br />
film B-Movie: Lust and Sound in West<br />
Berlin, that will be screened by Onion<br />
Cellar. The angst-ridden fast living<br />
of the frenzied but creative time and<br />
place are recalled through the antics<br />
of well-known figures such as Mark<br />
Reeder, Blixa Bargeld, Nick Cave,<br />
Gudrun Gut, Joy Division, Die Toten<br />
Hosen and WestBam.<br />
The 92-minute film has dialogue<br />
in English and German, with<br />
subtitles in <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese and English.<br />
Tickets on the door cost VND50,000<br />
or VND40,000 with a valid student<br />
ID. The film will be screened at<br />
7.30pm.<br />
The Goethe-Institut is at 56-58<br />
Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Hanoi<br />
1<br />
Gratts and Eluize<br />
Savage, Tay Ho<br />
Friday, Sep. 30<br />
1. A still from the documentary B-Movie: Lust and Sound in West Berlin<br />
2. Gratts and Eluize (pictured) will play at Savage<br />
3. Bolivian-based DJ Paul Jove will bring his unique sound to CAMA ATK<br />
4. The British Embassy will commemorate 100 years since the Battle of the Somme with a BBQ at Moose & Roo<br />
Savage will continue their first<br />
month as the newest club in West<br />
Lake with two DJs from overseas —<br />
Gratts (BEL) and Eluize (AUS).<br />
An Australian born DJ, producer<br />
and vocalist, Eluize’s night time<br />
explorations traverse house, techno,<br />
disco and acid. Drawing inspiration<br />
from all corners of the globe, she<br />
has a passion for combining the<br />
music she uncovers and creates to<br />
shape soundtracks for all hours on<br />
the dance floor.<br />
Gratts aka Tristan Jong has spent<br />
the best part of two decades lugging<br />
bags of records around Europe, and<br />
latterly Asia and Australia. First<br />
biting the bug for good-time house,<br />
techno and disco in the late 1990s,<br />
he honed his craft as part of the<br />
We Play House gang throughout<br />
the following decade. His deep<br />
knowledge of groove-heavy,<br />
dancefloor-ready music affords him<br />
versatility on the decks.<br />
Savage is at 112 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,<br />
Hanoi or online at savage-hanoi.com<br />
Paul Jove<br />
CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung<br />
Friday, Sep. 30<br />
Paul Jove, a professional musician<br />
2<br />
turned DJ, started creating music<br />
in 1990 and has been a professional<br />
DJ since 2003. Growing up biculturally<br />
in the US and Bolivia, he<br />
started with rock/alternative bands<br />
as a guitarist. He later realised<br />
that electronic music had infinite<br />
possibilities, and wasn’t just limited<br />
to the coldness of machines making<br />
sequences.<br />
He currently resides in La Paz,<br />
Bolivia, where he spreads the<br />
groove around at clubs and parties<br />
as a DJ. He also runs a netlabel,<br />
San Pedro Music, which he uses to<br />
showcase con-temporary electronic<br />
music of Bolivia. His appearance<br />
at CAMA ATK will be his first<br />
ven-ture into the organized chaos<br />
that is <strong>Vietnam</strong>.<br />
Doors are at 8pm and entrance is<br />
VND50,000. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai<br />
Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi<br />
Festival of Aromes<br />
Sofitel Metropole, Hoan Kiem<br />
Oct. 10 to Oct. 29<br />
October will feature a host of special<br />
culinary events at the Sofitel Legend<br />
Metropole Hotel under the title Les<br />
Aromes Festival.<br />
The festival kicks off at Angelina<br />
on Oct. 10 with an authentically<br />
rustic menu created by Italian chef<br />
Paolo Vitaletti, while Spices Garden<br />
46 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
is hosting an exchange promotion<br />
with Sofitel Guangzhou Sunrich, to<br />
offer the best of Chinese cuisine.<br />
Later in the month, French<br />
cheese master Gerard Poulard<br />
arrives with his autumn cheese<br />
selection, and pastry chef<br />
Christophe Grilo runs a bread<br />
master class, with the duo teaming<br />
up for a bread, cheese and wine<br />
event at La Veranda.<br />
The festivities conclude on Oct.<br />
29 at L’Orangerie with a Burgundy<br />
Premier & Grand Cru wine dinner<br />
with William Fevre / Bouchard Pere<br />
& Fils priced at VND2.4 million per<br />
per-son.<br />
The Sofitel Metropole Legend is at<br />
15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. For<br />
more info email huyen.ha@sofitel.com<br />
3<br />
4<br />
Remembrance BBQ<br />
Moose & Roo Smokehouse, Hoan<br />
Kiem<br />
Friday, Nov. 18<br />
In commemoration of the centenary<br />
of the Battle of the Somme, the<br />
British Embassy will be hosting a<br />
Remembrance BBQ at Moose & Roo<br />
Smokehouse on Friday, Nov. 18 at<br />
5pm with all money raised going to<br />
The Royal British Legion.<br />
Come and enjoy this family<br />
friendly afternoon with a traditional<br />
BBQ and a raffle with fan-tastic<br />
prizes.<br />
The Royal British Legion is<br />
a leading charity in the United<br />
Kingdom which takes care of<br />
injured soldiers, their families<br />
both past and present, and is also<br />
responsible for the upkeep and<br />
maintenance of the Commonwealth<br />
war graves.<br />
Tickets cost VND200,000 and can<br />
be purchased directly through the<br />
Embassy. For more information or to<br />
purchase tickets please contact Kayla<br />
Bragg or Nguyen Thanh Binh on (04)<br />
3936 0500. Moose & Roo Smokehouse<br />
is at 21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Hanoi<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 47
Just<br />
IN<br />
Hanoi<br />
Health<br />
guides, golf<br />
training, new<br />
nightclubs<br />
and some<br />
spice from<br />
Peru. What’s<br />
new in the<br />
capital<br />
2<br />
3<br />
Hanoi Holistic Health<br />
Guide<br />
Fall <strong>2016</strong><br />
A primary and comprehensive directory of holistic health<br />
and wellness services in Hanoi.<br />
1<br />
4<br />
1. The latest edition of the Hanoi Holistic Health Guide is now out<br />
2. Bana Hills Golf Club claims to have the most advanced golf training facility in <strong>Vietnam</strong><br />
3. Le Club in the Metropole reopens after a two-month refurbishment<br />
4. Entrants to the Targeted Innovation Challenge will have to solve an environmental and conservation problem<br />
5. Tay Ho gets a new bakery<br />
6. Fancy a Peruvian, anyone? Well, let’s head to Picante Latino<br />
7. Newly opened Savage is set to shake up the DJ scene in Hanoi<br />
8. Cousins opens a second location in Ba Dinh<br />
Hanoi Holistic Health Guide<br />
The recently updated Autumn<br />
edition of the Hanoi Holistic Health<br />
Guide is now available online.<br />
Containing listings of holistic and<br />
wellness practitioners in Hanoi,<br />
the comprehensive directory is an<br />
indispensable resource for those<br />
looking to optimize their physical,<br />
mental and spiritual health.<br />
A free download of the guide<br />
is available at issuu.com/<br />
hanoiholistichealth<br />
Tracking for Success<br />
Bana Hills Golf Club in Danang<br />
has opened what it says is the most<br />
advanced golf training facility<br />
in <strong>Vietnam</strong>, using the TrackMan<br />
4 radar-assisted technology to<br />
assess players’ swings and the<br />
path of the ball. This will enable<br />
club professional Mathew Pryke to<br />
accelerate the learning process.<br />
The club is committed to growing<br />
the game by bringing these training<br />
techniques to new golfers of all ages,<br />
according to Jack Hedges, the club’s<br />
general manager.<br />
The club has also built a fullylit,<br />
310-yard driving range with 18<br />
covered, fan-cooled hitting bays and<br />
five, bunker-guarded target greens<br />
simulating on-course conditions.<br />
For more information click on<br />
banahillsgolf.com<br />
Le Club Reopens<br />
One of Hanoi’s oldest bars, Le Club<br />
at the Sofitel Legend Metropole<br />
Hotel, has reopened after a twomonth<br />
makeover. New features<br />
include a live cooking station, a new<br />
marble bar and a seating capacity<br />
expanded from 90 to 120 in a<br />
faithful re-creation of a 1920s style<br />
speakeasy.<br />
With the new bar, there is a new<br />
voice. Zoey Jones steps up as the<br />
hotel’s new ‘jazz diva,’ singing five<br />
nights per week at Le Club through<br />
December.<br />
The Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel is<br />
at 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi<br />
Entrepreneurship Challenge<br />
A group of companies including<br />
Frontier Law & Advisory (Frontier),<br />
Da Nang Entrepreneurship<br />
Support Co., Ltd. (DNES), Marco<br />
Polo Studios, Evergreen Labs<br />
and Vinatuna are organising an<br />
entrepreneurship initiative called<br />
the Targeted Innovation Challenge<br />
(TIC).<br />
The challenge for entrants is<br />
to solve an environmental and<br />
conservation problem where the<br />
solution will have a commercial<br />
value. The TIC will involve small<br />
teams of inventors competing in<br />
developing a solution with the<br />
best team and runner-up receiving<br />
US$1,000 (VND22.5 million) and<br />
US$400, respectively, along with<br />
a chance to commercialize their<br />
product.<br />
The competition will start with<br />
the soft launch in Danang on Sep.<br />
10, with registration opening by<br />
Sep. 5. The competition will last<br />
six weeks, and the registered teams<br />
will be provided with a mentor<br />
to assist the teams in meeting the<br />
milestones required to complete<br />
the competition.<br />
For more info click on bit.ly/tic<strong>2016</strong><br />
48 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
6<br />
5<br />
7<br />
8<br />
or bit.ly/tic<strong>2016</strong>page, or contact<br />
Simon Johansson on simon@boldfrontier.com<br />
Home Bread<br />
The couple behind Thanh<br />
Phuc Bread, which has been<br />
supplying Tay Ho’s minimarts<br />
and shops with fresh bread<br />
since 2009, has just opened a<br />
sandwich shop and bakery off<br />
Dang Thai Mai. Open daily<br />
from 8am to 4pm, the shop<br />
bakes their goods fresh every<br />
day, with loaves starting at<br />
VND45,000, and sandwiches<br />
costing from VND50,000 to<br />
VND90,000 a go.<br />
Home Bread is at 13/57 Dang<br />
Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Hanoi<br />
Picante Latino<br />
There’s a new burrito in town<br />
— and at VND95,000, it could<br />
be Tay Ho’s most affordable.<br />
Add a killer rooftop view of<br />
West Lake, and a cozy date<br />
night atmosphere, and you’ve<br />
got Picante Latino, the newest<br />
venture of Chef Charles<br />
Guislain and St. Honore.<br />
The menu features Peruvian<br />
dishes like ceviche and lomo<br />
saltado, Mexican favourites like<br />
quesadillas and enchiladas,<br />
and a selection of Spanish<br />
tapas, with prices ranging from<br />
VND55,000 to VND250,000.<br />
Picante Latino is at 5 Xuan<br />
Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi, just above<br />
St. Honore<br />
Savage<br />
Cliche Records has already<br />
rocked Hong Kong with a wave<br />
of international DJs, and now<br />
they’re dropping into Hanoi<br />
with their new venue, Savage.<br />
Kicking off on Sep. 16 with a<br />
showcase by The Observatory<br />
from Saigon, the intimate<br />
club will focus on bumping<br />
quality underground electronic<br />
acts from around the world<br />
through their Funktion-One<br />
soundsystem, and will be invite<br />
crews from across Asia to throw<br />
monthly parties. The grand<br />
opening weekend is officially<br />
slated for the Sep. 23 and Sep.<br />
24, with a VND100,000 cover,<br />
but get there before 10pm to<br />
dance for free.<br />
Savage is at 112 Xuan Dieu,<br />
Tay Ho, Hanoi<br />
New Cousins Location<br />
The Tay Ho-based restaurant<br />
Cousins has opened a new<br />
location in Ba Dinh, a welcome<br />
addition to a neighbourhood<br />
that still lacks quality Western<br />
eateries. The new venue is<br />
larger than their first and is<br />
better-equipped to host events.<br />
The food will stay the same<br />
for now, but a more familystyle<br />
menu is in the works.<br />
Prices range from VND75,000<br />
to VND260,000 a dish, and<br />
happy hour offers VND50,000<br />
cocktails during the week from<br />
4pm to 6pm.<br />
Cousins’ second location is at<br />
#7 Ngo 58, Dao Tan, Ba Dinh,<br />
Hanoi
Insider<br />
Keeping it in the Family / The Homestay Experience / The Motorcycle Diaries / Over the Bridge / Mui Den Do /<br />
Hidden Gems / Top Eats Hanoi / Banh My Pho Hue / Mystery Diner HCMC / A Taste from the Past / The Art and<br />
Architecture of George Town / The Abandoned Valley<br />
Photo of Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park by Nick Ross<br />
50 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 51
Insider<br />
52 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
INSIDER<br />
HANOI<br />
Keeping it in the Family<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 53
Like so many other businesses in Hanoi, Tan My is one<br />
of those that is all about the family. In this instance,<br />
three generations of family. <strong>Word</strong>s by Edward Dalton.<br />
Photos by Theo Lowenstein<br />
Hanoi is brimming with little family<br />
businesses, where subsequent<br />
generations inherit a new set of<br />
skills along with a shop to peddle<br />
them in. Two of the finest shops on Hang<br />
Gai, the famous Silk Street, Tan My (66<br />
Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem) and its newer<br />
sister shop Tan My Design (61 Hang Gai,<br />
Hoan Kiem) epitomise the spirit of family<br />
business.<br />
I pulled up a chair to hear the stories<br />
of the three women who have overseen<br />
the enduring success of the business,<br />
since its humble beginnings as a seller of<br />
embroidered handkerchiefs and pillow cases,<br />
to an haute designer of clothing, jewellery,<br />
home décor, and assorted linens.<br />
Grandma Knows Best<br />
The story begins a long time ago when<br />
tradition and strife were the only things<br />
everyone possessed in equal measure.<br />
The war was in full swing, and business<br />
opportunities were few and far between.<br />
Bach Thi Ngai, now 92 years old, recognised<br />
that some things don’t stop just because<br />
there’s a war to be getting on with.<br />
“People still needed to get married,” she<br />
says. “That meant they needed pillow cases.”<br />
In one of the oldest <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese marriage<br />
traditions, newlyweds would go to bed<br />
on their wedding night using pillowcases<br />
embroidered with their initials.<br />
Young men, including two of Ngai’s<br />
own brothers, left to serve in the army.<br />
Sweethearts would share a final moment<br />
together before the girl slipped an<br />
embroidered handkerchief into the young<br />
soldier’s hand, a symbol of her love, loyalty<br />
and commitment.<br />
“The handkerchiefs had messages<br />
embroidered onto them, such as chung thuy<br />
or doi cho,” continues Ngai, which roughly<br />
translate as “I’ll be faithful” and “I’ll wait<br />
for you”. When Ngai started her business<br />
in 1969, the traditional pillowcases and<br />
sentimental handkerchiefs were the two<br />
pillars upon which she would build her<br />
success.<br />
In the earliest days, Ngai did all the<br />
embroidery herself. Once things started to<br />
take off in a bigger way, her daughter, Do<br />
Thanh Huong, would come home from<br />
school and have to finish stitching two<br />
pillow cases every day.<br />
“It was really hard work,” Huong recalls.<br />
“We still had to use food stamps to survive;<br />
we only got 300 grams of meat every<br />
month.”<br />
Like Mother Like Daughter<br />
These days, however, Ngai spends most of<br />
her time either relaxing around Hoan Kiem<br />
Lake, or relaxing at home. About 20 years<br />
ago, Huong took over the reins and started<br />
to modernise the company, moving it away<br />
from relying solely on embroidery.<br />
“It’s the only thing we ever fought about,”<br />
Huong says, smiling at her mum. “She<br />
wanted to keep things traditional, but I was<br />
trying to think about the future.”<br />
It’s clear to see the similarities as they sit<br />
together, looking resplendent in their ao dai.<br />
“I’m not as beautiful as her,” laments<br />
54 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
“The story begins a<br />
long time ago when…<br />
the war was in full<br />
swing, and business<br />
opportunities were few<br />
and far between. Bach<br />
Thi Ngai, now 92 years<br />
old, recognised that<br />
some things don’t<br />
stop just because<br />
there’s a war to be<br />
getting on with”<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 55
56 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
Huong. “But she taught me to be hardworking<br />
and tidy.”<br />
The first little shop they owned was just<br />
up the road from the current embroidery<br />
shop, Tan My. Huong’s son helps out with<br />
managing it, when he’s not busy running his<br />
own restaurant.<br />
“Tan My means ‘New Beauty’, so that’s<br />
where we keep the products we’re most<br />
proud of — the embroidery,” says Huong.<br />
The newer shop, Tan My Design, opened<br />
opposite the old one around seven years ago.<br />
This was the culmination of Huong’s plan to<br />
modernise the business.<br />
“Customers kept coming in and asking<br />
if we did clothes and other things, so we<br />
needed a bigger space.”<br />
But two shops is enough, Huong believes.<br />
“We want Tan My to be an exclusive<br />
brand,” she says. “So we will continue to<br />
export, but we won’t open any more shops,<br />
or expand into southern <strong>Vietnam</strong>.”<br />
This exclusivity is what gives their<br />
business an edge over their rivals, many of<br />
whom are neighbours in Hang Gai.<br />
Huong’s family, unusually for <strong>Vietnam</strong>, is<br />
a working matriarchy.<br />
“My mum is the head of the family, so<br />
other family members will only travel far<br />
if it’s to pay respect to her,” Huong says,<br />
before laughing and confessing: “She always<br />
tried to make sure I had an advantage over<br />
the boys in the family.”<br />
Bright Future<br />
The penultimate link in the chain is Nguyen<br />
Thi Linh, Huong’s daughter and the current<br />
general director of Tan My Design. However,<br />
I’m more inclined to believe that Linh’s<br />
five-year-old daughter, Kitty, is the real boss<br />
around here, as I watch her confidently<br />
striding around the store to explain products<br />
to foreign customers.<br />
“She’s exactly the same as me when I was<br />
that age,” Linh says proudly. “Except I also<br />
used to stand in the doorway and shout at<br />
people to come inside.”<br />
Linh used to have the same dream as her<br />
mum, when she was very young — they<br />
both wanted to be teachers.<br />
“Getting a job in Hanoi as a teacher was<br />
too difficult, so it was better to work for the<br />
family business,” she remembers.<br />
I ask Linh if she would bother with the<br />
family business if she won US$10 million in<br />
a lottery tomorrow.<br />
“I would never sell the business, I love<br />
it too much,” she says firmly. Huong jokes<br />
that if they won the lottery, they’d just buy a<br />
bigger shop for Tan My.<br />
Linh says that designing products,<br />
managing the business and being with<br />
customers are the things she loves the most,<br />
and can’t imagine not working for Tan My in<br />
the future.<br />
“I’d never force my daughter to continue<br />
the business if she didn’t want to,” just as<br />
her own mum didn’t force her. “You can see<br />
how happy she is to be here, she loves the<br />
customers, too.”<br />
Huong believes that any family business,<br />
“‘In a family business, if you fail, you’ve let your<br />
family down; there’s more responsibility for<br />
everyone involved. We depend on each other’”<br />
not only theirs, is far more special than a<br />
huge, faceless corporation.<br />
“We work here because we love it, we<br />
built it. It has our personal touch, and the<br />
customers appreciate the character of our<br />
products,” she says.<br />
Linh nods her head in agreement,<br />
adding: “In a family business, if you fail,<br />
you’ve let your family down; there’s more<br />
responsibility for everyone involved. We<br />
depend on each other.”<br />
The Next Generation<br />
While Huong is preparing how best to<br />
retire, or at least take a step back from direct<br />
involvement, Linh is waiting with her hand<br />
outstretched, ready to take the baton and<br />
run.<br />
“I want to introduce Tan My, and<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese embroidery to as much of the<br />
world as possible,” Linh says. “It’s such a<br />
beautiful form of art, and we hope more<br />
people can know about it.”<br />
Linh is even considering expanding Tan<br />
My Design to include more artwork, because<br />
she thinks that there are many talented<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese artists who lack the opportunity<br />
to share their creations.<br />
With Ngai’s desire to build her own<br />
business, Huong’s vision to modernise and<br />
Linh’s passion for sharing their products, it’s<br />
easy to see how Tan My is such a successful<br />
and enduring family business. With Kitty<br />
waiting in the wings, it’s clear that this is<br />
one family whose legacy is going to continue<br />
growing for quite some time yet.<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 57
Insider<br />
INSIDER<br />
PHOTO ESSAY<br />
The Homestay<br />
Experience<br />
“Accustomed to<br />
cable TV, mattresses<br />
and air-conditioning,<br />
staying with a family<br />
in rural <strong>Vietnam</strong> makes<br />
it very apparent how<br />
much more we have in<br />
life. But it also shows<br />
us how much we don’t<br />
really need any of it”<br />
58 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 59
Stay in a five-star or boutique hotel, and you got one<br />
type of experience. Stay in a homestay and you<br />
get something altogether quite different.<br />
<strong>Word</strong>s and photos by Jesse Meadows<br />
When I am old and I reminisce on<br />
the days I spent adventuring in<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>, what I will remember<br />
most are the nights I laid on a<br />
bamboo floor in a stilt house, listening to the<br />
music of frogs that wafted in through open<br />
windows and the giant mystery bugs that<br />
flitted against my mosquito net in the dark.<br />
I will inhale the scent of coming rain, and<br />
be transported to that moment on my back<br />
in the breeze of the standing fan, watching<br />
the strobe light sky flicker purple behind the<br />
mountains, feeling the whole house tremble<br />
with thunder around me.<br />
Authenticity<br />
Homestays offer an embedded cultural<br />
experience. You get to eat and drink with<br />
a local family, sleep in their house, and<br />
play with their children. It’s this ‘authentic’<br />
travel that so many tourists fantasize about.<br />
But homestays offer something else, too — a<br />
refreshing return to simplicity.<br />
Henry David Thoreau said: “Our life is<br />
frittered away by detail.” The more you<br />
have, the more you have to worry about.<br />
In the same way a five-star resort may<br />
handle these details for you, a homestay<br />
simply does away with them. There are<br />
few amenities, nothing to do, and no<br />
distractions. There’s nowhere to be. Days<br />
are spent swaying in a hammock on the<br />
porch, ‘night life’ is dinner in a circle on the<br />
floor, pouring shots of homemade ruou, or<br />
rice wine, from a bucket.<br />
Accustomed to cable TV, mattresses and<br />
air-conditioning, staying with a family in<br />
rural <strong>Vietnam</strong> makes it very apparent how<br />
much more we have in life. But it also shows<br />
us how much we don’t really need any of it.<br />
It’s a reminder that happiness doesn’t come<br />
from the things we own, but the experiences<br />
we have, and the people we share them<br />
with.<br />
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wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 61
“Homestays offer an<br />
embedded cultural<br />
experience. You get<br />
to eat and drink with<br />
a local family, sleep in<br />
their house, and play<br />
with their children. It’s<br />
this ‘authentic’ travel<br />
that so many tourists<br />
fantasize about”<br />
62 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 63
Cover Story<br />
1 4 2 6<br />
3<br />
Nick Ross<br />
Julie Vola<br />
Jesse Meadows<br />
5<br />
7<br />
Vu Ha Kim Vy<br />
Zoe Osborne<br />
Siân Kavanagh<br />
Rodney Hughes<br />
The Motorcycle Diaries<br />
Che Guevara liked biking through long countries. So do we.
1<br />
2<br />
3<br />
In January 1952, the then 23-yearold<br />
Ernesto ‘Che’ Guevara and his<br />
biochemist friend, Alberto Granado, left<br />
Buenos Aires on a single-cylinder 1939<br />
Norton 500cc motorbike to explore South<br />
America.<br />
The 8,000km journey had a profound<br />
impact on Guevara, who had been<br />
born to an upper-middle-class family.<br />
Encountering first-hand poverty,<br />
exploitation, illness and suffering, it<br />
created a political and social awakening<br />
that led him to fight and die for the cause<br />
of the poor, and dream of a united Latin<br />
America. He became one of the bestknown<br />
guerrilla leaders in history.<br />
During our own road trips we have<br />
covered just half that amount — 4,000km<br />
— yet our travels have taken us the length<br />
and skinny breadth of <strong>Vietnam</strong>. While we<br />
have encountered experiences both good<br />
and bad, exhilarating and frustrating,<br />
we can promise that not one of us has<br />
returned a revolutionary.<br />
This is not to detract from our own little<br />
feat, from the very northern tip of this<br />
country to the very far southeast is quite<br />
a journey. So, we split it up into parts,<br />
each writer and photographer taking on a<br />
section all of their own.<br />
But like Che Guevara we all experienced<br />
something profound — the elation and<br />
freedom of being on the open road.<br />
In the 1950s Jack Kerouac crossed and<br />
re-crossed America by car. It induced him<br />
to pen one of the most influential novels<br />
of the last century, On The Road. Our own<br />
stories won’t be nearly as significant and<br />
not one of us is a beatnik, but we hope<br />
they will make you think.<br />
Parts of this country are stunningly<br />
beautiful. Yet to see it you need to get out<br />
there and leave the city behind. It’s worth<br />
every breakdown, every bit of discomfort<br />
to your behind, every downpour and every<br />
kilometre of wanting a hot shower or a<br />
place just to lie down and relax.<br />
We know. Because we’ve been there,<br />
done it, and have survived to tell the story.<br />
So here in all its glory we present to you,<br />
The Motorcycle Diaries.<br />
Phu Quoc<br />
7<br />
4<br />
6<br />
Con Dao<br />
5<br />
Hoang Sa<br />
Truong Sa<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 65
The Far North<br />
PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS<br />
66 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
The scenery here is breathtaking.<br />
It is Ha Giang, after all, the most<br />
beautiful province in <strong>Vietnam</strong>. Yet two<br />
days into our trip it still defies words.<br />
You can describe it, yes — rolling hills,<br />
dark mountains, black rock, deep green<br />
foliage, terraced fields, winding roads,<br />
alpine furs, adobe houses — and with<br />
a roll of the tongue you can add colour,<br />
verbiage for all the foliage, flowers for all<br />
the mountains. <strong>Word</strong>s can only capture<br />
the emotion this place evokes, not the<br />
place itself. Everything that is not the<br />
mountains is tiny, a dot on an imposing<br />
horizon. Man is just a speck of dirt on the<br />
majesty of nature.<br />
But here, in the space where <strong>Vietnam</strong><br />
sticks up into China like a sore thumb,<br />
we’re about to experience something else.<br />
That country up north.<br />
Leaving Highway 182B we meander<br />
along the crumbling road towards the<br />
border. We pass through small rickety<br />
villages, stare down at immense valleys,<br />
and watch the scenery change. It starts<br />
off as black rock, an unearthly black rock,<br />
but then the trees and grasses return in<br />
different shades of green and after 20km<br />
Day 2: Yen Minh, Lung Cu and Dong Van<br />
of ungainly bends we are at the border.<br />
Not for the first time today, we see<br />
marijuana growing wild by the side of the<br />
road and then we pass an old man leading<br />
two albino buffaloes. He is alone, using<br />
a stick for support. Further on, we see<br />
another old man dressed all in black, his<br />
back stooped under the weight of leaves<br />
and grasses.<br />
Lung Cu is known for its tower, a<br />
mountain-top column and flagpole<br />
overlooking the border. On its top flaps<br />
a <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese flag, placed as if to remind<br />
the northern hordes beyond of that<br />
resilient nation to the south. It’s on the tip<br />
of the nail, the pointed nail of that thumb,<br />
and the tower and flag loom resplendent<br />
below the imposing sky.<br />
As we climb the first set of steps —<br />
there are 270 to get to the base of the<br />
tower — Communist Party music drifts<br />
out of the speakers. It’s imposing and yet<br />
soothing, peace-breaking yet relevant.<br />
For the whole of the 1980s, <strong>Vietnam</strong><br />
fought off the Chinese on its northern<br />
border. The Chinese managed to get no<br />
more than a kilometre into <strong>Vietnam</strong>.<br />
With an already war-hardened army and<br />
border lands like these, it’s no surprise.<br />
At the base of the tower the question<br />
is asked again and again. “Where is<br />
China?” No sign marks it out. I think<br />
it’s to the north, but when I look later on<br />
Google Maps, it’s to the east and west<br />
as well, no more than two kilometres<br />
either way. From where we stand, there<br />
are villages on the other side of the<br />
border that can only be reached by road<br />
from <strong>Vietnam</strong>. Apparently you can cross<br />
without a visa and then come back again.<br />
But at this moment we don’t know that,<br />
and climbing to the top of the tower<br />
— another 144 steps — we ask again.<br />
Where’s China?<br />
This time the answer comes with the<br />
wind. It soars here in blusters, hitting<br />
you in the face. Beyond the valleys below,<br />
China is everywhere you look, but it’s not<br />
here. Certainly not here.<br />
We have a different vantage point at<br />
the top of the tower to the one we see on<br />
the road. And we could stand here and<br />
soak in the effect of man and nature for<br />
hours. But we have to move on. It’s late<br />
afternoon and we have to get on to Dong<br />
Van before dark. — Nick Ross<br />
Diary Entry #1: The Cross-Eyed Ghost<br />
We’re talking about the village we just passed through on the way to<br />
Lung Cu. Is it Má Lé, meaning ‘cross-eyed mother’ or Ma Lé — ‘cross-eyed<br />
ghost’? We’re so tired from our rain-drenched, motorbike drive, which has<br />
meandered through grandiose mountain passes and regal valleys, that we’ve<br />
lost the ability to think. When we settle on ‘cross-eyed ghost’, we don’t<br />
discuss its strangeness. Later on Google Maps I discover that it could actually<br />
be Mã Lé, meaning cross-eyed flying horse.<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 67
The Northern Loop<br />
PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA<br />
68 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
We were supposed to set off early to<br />
Ba Be Lake to ensure we completed<br />
the 230km trip in a day, but because of<br />
mechanical gremlins, our departure gets<br />
put back. The contingency plan is to make<br />
a first stop at Thac Ba Lake, 150km away<br />
in the village of Vu Linh in Yen Bai.<br />
The road from Hanoi is fairly easy, and<br />
quite scenic when you get deep into the<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese countryside, with rice paddies<br />
and a bit of mountain road. We also drive<br />
through tea plantations, which make a<br />
Day 1: Hanoi to La Vie Vu Linh<br />
welcome change of scenery. From Hanoi we<br />
head towards Tam Dao and stay on TL340<br />
then QL2C; at km134 we turn left onto QL37<br />
and follow the road until we reach Vu Linh.<br />
There are a couple of homestays spread<br />
around and tourism is not yet developed<br />
around Thac Ba Lake; the main player in the<br />
area is La Vie Vu Linh, a lakefront eco-lodge<br />
that promotes tourism in harmony with the<br />
locals and the environment.<br />
The lake created by the Thac Ba<br />
hydroelectric project in 1970 is one of the<br />
largest artificial bodies of water in <strong>Vietnam</strong>,<br />
covering a total of 23.4 hectares. 1,331 islands<br />
rear their heads above its surface, causing<br />
some to call it a miniature Ha Long Bay.<br />
The villages in the area have a large ethnic<br />
population, mainly composed of Dzao and<br />
Tay and it is possible to hire a boat for a tour<br />
of the lake, visiting caves like Thuy Tien<br />
cave, which was the base for the Yen Bai<br />
provincial committee during the war. With<br />
clear, blue water the lake is also perfect for<br />
a swim.<br />
Diary Entry #1: Traditions<br />
We arrive at La Vie Vu Linh unannounced; luckily we are the only guests. It is a<br />
special night for the staff, as one of the young French volunteers will be leaving<br />
the next day, and so tonight it’s his going-away party. We share a delicious<br />
family-style meal around the same table. The moonshine is out and ready.<br />
Following the Dzao tradition every time someone offers to drink a glass down<br />
in one you shake their hand and say thank you. I thank the same person<br />
multiple times for over an hour.<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 69
scenic route going through many<br />
A mountain passes runs north of Tuyen<br />
Quang Province towards Viet Quang, then<br />
follows the southern border of Ha Giang<br />
Province. This trip was recommended by<br />
the <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese staff at La Vie Vu Linh but<br />
Google Maps estimates it would take over<br />
seven hours in a car, so tack a couple more<br />
on for a motorbike convoy.<br />
We decide against it, and cut straight<br />
through Tuyen Quang Province. Going<br />
through <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese rural landscape is never<br />
boring, the bucolic farm life picturesque<br />
even though the area is visibly poor. Beware<br />
if you’re using Google Maps, as it doesn’t<br />
discriminate between highways, countryside<br />
roads or mountain dirt roads, which could<br />
set you back an hour or two if you're<br />
unlucky. We learnt that one the hard way.<br />
After 120km of a quiet drive through the<br />
Day 2: La Vie Vu Linh to Ba Be lake<br />
countryside, Google Maps suggested that<br />
we take a left towards the mountain, along a<br />
road carrying a Restricted Area sign. Twenty<br />
minutes in, the road changes from paved to<br />
dirt with big rocks and small rain gullies and<br />
rising steeply to one side. That isn't too bad,<br />
but the steep downgrades are intimidating.<br />
On the way down, I notice my travelling<br />
companion, Richard’s, backpack is gone. He<br />
decides to walk back to retrieve it, walking<br />
up and down the road for a good 30 minutes<br />
under the sun. Back on his motorbike he<br />
continues on down quicker than me, and I<br />
lose sight of him.<br />
When I catch up, I find him sitting under<br />
the shade of some small bushes. He isn’t<br />
well, light-headed, possible heatstroke,<br />
from the combination of the walk under the<br />
sun, the lack of water and the fumes from<br />
his motorbike tank. He drinks what water<br />
we have left, but it isn’t enough. When it<br />
becomes clear he isn’t able to stand up and<br />
ride his motorbike, I have to leave him there<br />
and go get some help.<br />
Luckily we are almost done with the dirt<br />
mountain road and within 10 minutes I<br />
reach a house. A farmer is outside, sees my<br />
distress, understands something has gone<br />
wrong on the road; he probably thinks my<br />
friend had an accident. When we get back,<br />
Richard is still not able to stand and is on the<br />
verge of passing out.<br />
The farmer assesses the situation, and<br />
barefoot drives his motorbike back down the<br />
road, parks it and walks back up, so he can<br />
drive Richard’s motorbike down to the main<br />
road. We finally get Richard to a roadside<br />
shop with two big bottles of water, shade<br />
and sugar. He recovers and two hours later<br />
we get back on the road.<br />
Diary Entry #2: In the Spotlight<br />
After the mayhem of the drive to Ba Be, we are back on the road trying<br />
to take it easy. It’s already late, though, and night is falling fast, so we<br />
get ready to do the last section in the dark. Then we realize Richard's<br />
front light doesn’t work, probably because of a slight fall in the morning.<br />
We fix his phone to the handlebars and turn on its flashlight; Richard<br />
follows me closely for the last 10km. The day has become ludicrous.<br />
70 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
Ba Be National Park, established in<br />
1992 in Bac Kan Province, is set up to<br />
protect the largest natural freshwater lake<br />
in <strong>Vietnam</strong> and the surrounding limestone<br />
and evergreen forest. Ba Be meaning Three<br />
Lakes refers to Pe Leng, Pe Lu and Pe Lam,<br />
three lakes, each connected to the next.<br />
The park is a wildlife sanctuary for 447<br />
Day 3: Ba Be Lake<br />
different kinds of mammals, birds and fish<br />
species and 354 species of butterfly. Three<br />
villages surround the lakeshore, Bo Lu, Ba<br />
Be and Pac Ngoi, all offering a large choice<br />
of homestays. A couple of piers around the<br />
lake allow you to hire a boat independently<br />
to visit local attractions (Puong Caves,<br />
Widow Island, Dau Dang Waterfall and<br />
more). If you enjoy trekking, the National<br />
Park offers a multitude of trails for the day<br />
or for a few nights with tours organised by<br />
Ba Be Tourism or Linh’s Adventure Travel<br />
and Homestay.<br />
The place is idyllic. A thankful final<br />
destination to a not so thankful journey.<br />
— Julie Vola<br />
Diary Entry #3: Afternoon Glow<br />
One thing I love is the 4pm to 6pm window. In <strong>Vietnam</strong> the light at<br />
these hours is beautiful, golden and rich. In the countryside it is also the<br />
time people go back to the fields after avoiding the perils of the midday<br />
heat. It is the time when people light fires to burn waste, and it is during<br />
this time of the day when I am out taking photos that I feel the most at<br />
home in <strong>Vietnam</strong>.<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 71
72 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
South of Hanoi<br />
PHOTOS BY JESSE MEADOWS<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 73
The worst part of road tripping south<br />
out of the city is the dusty construction<br />
you must first pass on Highway 13.<br />
It’s a sort of toll for the beauty you’ll<br />
see soon. About an hour out of the city<br />
centre, the landscape starts to improve.<br />
Limestone mammoths appear, surrounded<br />
by green fields and glassy lakes. This is<br />
Hoa Binh Province, home to caves that<br />
once sheltered some of the very first<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese civilisations.<br />
Day 1: Hanoi to Mai Chau<br />
Stop in Hoa Binh town for lunch (and a<br />
trip to the mechanic, if your bike chain falls<br />
off like mine did). There’s not much to see<br />
here, but it’s a nice halfway point. Back on<br />
Highway 13, the drive goes from good to<br />
spectacular pretty quickly. Winding in and<br />
out of switchbacks, the road climbs up and<br />
down for a couple hours until making a<br />
final descent into the valley that cradles Mai<br />
Chau.<br />
The area is mostly populated by the White<br />
Thai ethnic minority, skilled weavers who<br />
sheltered the <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese army on their way<br />
to the famous battle against the French at<br />
Dien Bien Phu. Their traditional wooden stilt<br />
houses — originally built to survive flooding<br />
— have now been converted into homestays<br />
for tourists. Mai Chau is a serene, relaxing<br />
and successful experiment in grassroots<br />
tourist development, but it’s now a regular<br />
stop on most itineraries, and true adventure<br />
is scarce.<br />
74 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
My travel companion and I debated<br />
leaving this lazy refuge, but the idea<br />
of a place that you’ve never been is a<br />
strong motivator. Leaving Mai Chau town,<br />
Road 15 snakes south towards Pu Luong<br />
Nature Reserve; hang left when the road<br />
splits and cross the border into Thanh<br />
Hoa Province, climbing the spine of the<br />
reserve’s western mountain ridge. This<br />
province — one of the country’s largest —<br />
was home to the Dong Son culture during<br />
the Bronze Age, and the birthplace of the<br />
Day 2: Mai Chau to Pu Luong<br />
famed Ba Trieu, a fierce female warrior<br />
in the third century who led a rebellion<br />
against the Chinese from the back of an<br />
elephant.<br />
On an empty road, it’s easy to imagine a<br />
time more ancient, as small waterfalls gush<br />
down the slope to your right, and glassy rice<br />
terraces descend to your left into the deep<br />
valley below. In the distance, green gives<br />
way to layers of mountains in ascending<br />
shades of blue.<br />
Besides a recently-built boutique resort<br />
(a sign of development to come), the only<br />
places to rest here are the homestays of local<br />
villagers, who will happily make dinner and<br />
prepare a bed for you. The food is all grown,<br />
picked and killed by hand, as fresh as it gets,<br />
and the views are vast and unparalleled. It<br />
would be easy to spend a week here, getting<br />
lost on the dirt roads that lead to hidden<br />
villages, but despite my steady diet of<br />
coconut water and pickled chillis, I’d begun<br />
to feel bleak, so we decided to head back<br />
into civilisation early.<br />
Diary Entry #1: Hanoi<br />
A day on the highway in Hanoi is a day of extremes. Loud, fast,<br />
bright, hot. Sweat dripping down the middle of your back as three<br />
old <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese men fiddle with the wires in your motorbike. But they<br />
couldn’t fix it, grew bored, and wandered off, so my travelling partner<br />
started her bike and pushed me 15km home with her right foot. We<br />
almost made it to the outskirts of the city but her tentacles pulled us<br />
right back in. We’ll try again tomorrow.<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 75
Coming down out of the reserve, we<br />
encounter the Ma River; this massive,<br />
slow-moving brown beast that has<br />
sustained the region for centuries. After<br />
we cross the bridge, the road follows the<br />
river for a while, before the landscape<br />
changes into verdant bamboo forests and<br />
mountains carpeted in greenery.<br />
Day 3: Pu Luong to Lang Chanh<br />
It’s a short ride, and it’s entirely<br />
possible to pass through Lang Chanh,<br />
unless, like me, you’ve grown deathly ill<br />
by some cruel twist of fate. It’s remote and<br />
pastoral, and if I hadn’t felt like dying, I<br />
would have stopped to explore the lush<br />
bamboo that lines the gently sloping road.<br />
There’s a turn-off to the right for Lang<br />
Chanh Town, a small but bustling little<br />
place with a couple of hotels on the main<br />
drag. It’s one of those middle-of-nowhere<br />
settlements that somehow stick in your<br />
memories of road trips. The locals are<br />
friendly, and over dinner, they’ll offer up<br />
directions to Thac Ma Hao, a waterfall<br />
10km outside of town.<br />
Diary Entry #2: Pu Luong<br />
Tonight we taught some little girls from the village how to play Uno, and<br />
marvelled as the sun set behind the mountains outside our window. Dinner with<br />
the family was quiet and the father, who already smelled strongly of alcohol when<br />
we met him that afternoon, tried to ply us with rice wine. I declined, feeling<br />
sicker by the minute, and chewed on some chilli instead. As we climbed into bed,<br />
he watched us far too long for comfort. “Are we safe?” my travel companion keeps<br />
asking. I think so. We’re together, at least. Groups of men have tailed us on the<br />
highway, they’ve filmed us with their phones even after we asked them not to,<br />
they’ve leered in ways they never do when I travel with male companions.<br />
76 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
night of sleep worked its magic, and<br />
A we woke up the next day in high<br />
spirits, ready to find that waterfall. I guess<br />
in a way we got what we wanted; we<br />
drove straight into a monsoon. Over coffee<br />
with some giggly women who couldn’t<br />
resist a cell phone photoshoot with the<br />
foreigners in town, we waited for the<br />
downpour to slow, before taking Road 15<br />
to the Ho Chi Minh Highway.<br />
A source of national pride, this<br />
1,200-kilometre road runs the length of<br />
the country, and a particularly beautiful<br />
Day 4: Lang Chanh to Cuc Phuong National Park<br />
stretch cuts straight through Cuc Phuong<br />
National Park. Anointed by Ho Chi Minh<br />
himself in 1962, the park is <strong>Vietnam</strong>’s<br />
largest, and remains from prehistoric<br />
humans have even been found in some of<br />
its caves.<br />
After a road trip that pelted me with<br />
rain from the outside and malady from<br />
the inside, pulling up to my favourite<br />
homestay in <strong>Vietnam</strong> was a relief. Quan<br />
Duc is close to the highway, and run by a<br />
family of four sisters. They have beautiful<br />
children and three furry puppies.<br />
It’s the perfect balance of home and<br />
stay, really — trading English words for<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese over coffee in the morning,<br />
dancing with the kids in the afternoon, and<br />
retreating to our own wooden loft space in<br />
the evening.<br />
A dirt track next to the homestay will<br />
take you into the mountains, where<br />
waterfalls abound, goats graze along the<br />
road, and buffalo herders amble along<br />
with their brutes. Under the definition<br />
of ‘happy place’, there’s a photograph of<br />
Cuc Phuong. — Jesse Meadows<br />
Diary Entry #3: Cuc Phuong<br />
“Get me out of here!” my companion laughs, as we reminisce on the past few<br />
days. It’s been one misfortune after another, and now we’re lying on a bamboo<br />
mat, listening to rain patter on a tin roof as the wooden house around us shakes<br />
with thunder. She’s scared, but thunderstorms always remind me of home. It’s<br />
the most relaxation I’ve had all week. Grandma comes up the stairs, puts buckets<br />
in the places where she knows the roof will leak, and replaces the bananas on the<br />
family altar. I smile and wave goodnight to her, watching the raindrops outside<br />
flicker in the light of passing trucks. Even when it all goes wrong, there’s still<br />
beauty to be found. You just have to laugh.<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 77
It started off as a road trip just for two;<br />
Ben Mitchell from Phong Nha Farmstay<br />
and I. Yet by the time we departed Phong<br />
Nha in Quang Binh early one August<br />
morning, our ranks had swollen to eight.<br />
Three Australians, two Brits, one German,<br />
one Irishman and one <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese. I’d like<br />
to flatter myself that this sudden interest<br />
was because of the company. Perhaps it<br />
was partly so.<br />
The other was definitely the journey<br />
itself, along the Ho Chi Minh Trail West<br />
Day 1: Phong Nha to Khe Sanh<br />
now known as Highway 15. While Ha<br />
Giang is hands down the most beautiful<br />
province in <strong>Vietnam</strong>, when it comes to<br />
roads, the drive from Phong Nha to Khe<br />
Sanh in the next province down, Quang<br />
Tri, has to be the most stunning.<br />
According to the United States National<br />
Security Agency's version of the war,<br />
the system of paths that made up the<br />
Ho Chi Minh Trail was “one of the great<br />
achievements of military engineering of<br />
the 20th century”. Used to transport both<br />
soldiers and supplies from north to south,<br />
look at the terrain that Highway 15, paved<br />
in the early 2000s, weaves through and<br />
you’ll understand the accolade.<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong> has over 90 million people,<br />
of whom the majority are squeezed into<br />
approximately 20 percent of the country’s<br />
land area. This means large swathes of this<br />
country are sparsely inhabited. But here,<br />
even sparse doesn’t describe what you see.<br />
For the first 80km there is not one house<br />
along the road. Not one ranger station, not<br />
The Ho Chi Minh Trail<br />
PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS<br />
78 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
one shop, café or gas station.<br />
This is unadulterated countryside,<br />
a rural form of <strong>Vietnam</strong> made up of<br />
limestone mountains carpeted with green<br />
jungle, all but untouched. The hundreds<br />
of thousands of <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese soldiers who<br />
would have plied this route would have<br />
found it treacherous.<br />
The road, too, is representative of the<br />
terrain. Up and down, pass after pass,<br />
hairpin bend after ever-more-challenging<br />
hairpin bend, the going is slow. Yet riding<br />
a motorbike through the cool air of the<br />
mountain valleys with a backdrop of a<br />
world untouched by man is difficult to<br />
beat. It’s exhilarating.<br />
Civilisation<br />
The first sign of human life is at the<br />
junction with provincial highway TL563<br />
at an area known as Rinh Rinh. Suddenly<br />
there is a trickle of motorbikes travelling<br />
the opposite way. Ten kilometres further<br />
on, the houses begin to appear, the ethnic<br />
minority stilt houses of the Van Kieu. And<br />
then after another 10km a village, Long<br />
Son. Yet almost as quickly as the presence<br />
of civilization appears, it disappears<br />
again, not re-emerging until we are 50km<br />
or so from Khe Sanh. This time it comes<br />
with livestock — buffalo, cows, goats,<br />
chickens and even pigs wandering along<br />
the road.<br />
And finally Khe Sanh, the first real<br />
town in 240km. Located just 15km from<br />
the border with Laos, this dusty, end-ofthe-road<br />
conglomeration of houses is best<br />
known for its wartime air base, Ta Con,<br />
which we plan to visit the next day.<br />
Diary Entry #1: Don’t Go Chasing Waterfalls<br />
We’ve been talking about heading to this waterfall we’ve been told about<br />
and now the three guys, including the midget, are heading off the road to<br />
the Promised Land. I’ll follow them, I tell everyone, and I get on my bike<br />
and drive down the track. But 1km in and my path is blocked so I park<br />
my bike and go on by foot. They show me the waterfall — tuyet voi, says<br />
one, amazing. But when I get there it’s just rocks jutting out of a flowing<br />
river. So I head back to the ranger station, but when I arrive, everyone<br />
else has left, also in search of the waterfall. I wait, wait and wait. They<br />
will be disappointed.<br />
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There is an abandoned church in Quang<br />
Tri on the main road from Dong Ha to<br />
Hue. When we arrive, my memory is of<br />
the photos taken three years ago by our<br />
then staff photographer, Francis Roux.<br />
Bullet holes rip through the side of the<br />
church’s ornate walls and decorative<br />
carvings, and the building has lost its roof;<br />
today it’s at the mercy of the elements.<br />
This for me is war; its ability to destroy<br />
all that’s good and beautiful. Even places<br />
Day 2: Khe Sanh, Lao Bao, Dong Ha and Hue<br />
of God get caught up in the carnage. And<br />
in this part of <strong>Vietnam</strong>, the strip of land<br />
north and south of the former Demilitarized<br />
Zone (DMZ), today the monstrous acts of<br />
more than 40 years ago continue to affect<br />
its people. There is so much unexploded<br />
ordnance (UXO) in the area that, for fear of<br />
digging up dangerous explosives, farmers<br />
only practice light farming — the main<br />
crop is acacia trees. And every year, while<br />
the numbers of fatalities are declining and<br />
organisations like MAG and Project Renew<br />
work to clear the land of munitions, scores<br />
of people either die or get injured through<br />
accidental contact with the UXO.<br />
We start our second day on the road with<br />
another reminder of the past, this time the<br />
brutality of colonisation. At Lao Bao<br />
on the border with Laos is a French-built<br />
prison that is off most tourist itineraries.<br />
The penitentiary is mainly in ruins now, but<br />
three of the old blocks remain, including the<br />
Diary Entry #2: Speak <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese, Why Don't You?<br />
The receptionist in Khe Sanh just refuses to speak to me in <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese,<br />
and every time I say something she replies in bad English. Terrible<br />
English. I know she wants to practice her language skills, but please,<br />
all we’re trying to do is arrange dinner. Please! Let’s just arrange it,<br />
okay? Don’t you get it? There’s a reason why so many foreigners have<br />
problems speaking your language. It’s because you make it so difficult for<br />
them. But no, she continues on.<br />
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solitary confinement area. Most striking is<br />
a tree with thorns, a bit like a rose bush but<br />
with the spikes climbing up the trunk.<br />
“Prisoners were made to climb up this tree<br />
as a form of punishment,” says our guide. I<br />
wince at the savagery.<br />
Our next stop — with our numbers<br />
whittled down from eight to five, and later<br />
just two — is the former US Air Base at Ta<br />
Con in Khe Sanh. Filled with rusting tanks,<br />
helicopters, people carriers, munitions, an air<br />
carrier and a reconstructed bunker system,<br />
last time I visited there was a freshness to<br />
the place. Even the museum, with its photo<br />
imagery, models, maps and weapons, felt<br />
alive with history. Yet now the place is staid.<br />
No upgrades. No care. A bunker system<br />
overgrown with weeds. This should be one<br />
of the key war sites in the country, but it<br />
isn’t. It needs an overhaul.<br />
And then, via the road to Dong Ha<br />
and an ethnic minority village given an<br />
NGO makeover that had failed to bring in<br />
tourists — even the hot spring baths, a key<br />
part of any visit, were cracked and out of<br />
use. Now lunch and then the church, Long<br />
Hung. Finally, in late afternoon, to Hue and<br />
into the Imperial citadel for dinner at Les<br />
Jardins de la Carambole. As I sit with my<br />
one remaining travel companion, Ben, we<br />
go over again and again the journey of the<br />
past two days. There are some road trips that<br />
lodge in your memory, some that you will<br />
hope to forget. Surrounded by the spectre of<br />
the past, this is one that will remain fresh. —<br />
Nick Ross<br />
Diary Entry #3: Pig Ears and Chao<br />
The suckling pig arrives on the table, all skin, fat, bone and only a little<br />
meat. We start eating, then suddenly I realise I’m eating the ear. No,<br />
can’t do that one. For a second I want to retch and I subtly put the piece<br />
with ear it on it back on the sharing plate. I don’t want anyone to notice.<br />
Then the chao arrives, chao with seaweed, my saviour. But this is the<br />
Quang Tri version and instead of rice congee it comes with little, oneinch<br />
long pieces of oblong shaped, glutinous noodles.<br />
A bit like banh canh. We dig in. It’s delicious! I forget about the ear.<br />
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The Central Highlands<br />
PHOTOS BY VU HA KIM VY<br />
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The bus rips its way along the winding<br />
road, narrowly missing its ghost-like<br />
cousins as they spin past through the mist.<br />
It is as though the forest is hungry. The<br />
road to Dalat is a shoelace — slender and<br />
impossibly twisted, rising up through the<br />
clouds to a city of crisp, pale skies and<br />
feathery flowers.<br />
This place is famous for a reason.<br />
Originally a French settlement, Dalat has<br />
the kind of delicate elegance that you might<br />
expect from the South of France, but with<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>’s signature tang of time and culture.<br />
It sits around Xuan Huong Lake, spreading<br />
its arms out over the hills around it. Quaint,<br />
pastel-coloured houses cling to the hillside<br />
among the coffee plantations, and the air is<br />
sweet with flowers and pine. It tastes fresh,<br />
and impossibly clean.<br />
Day 1: Dalat to Lak Lake<br />
There are two roads leading out of Dalat<br />
towards Dak Lak. They join together about<br />
28km from the city, bumping noses at<br />
national highway QL27 and spinning back<br />
up into the mountains. Over mounds of<br />
deepest green, the road soon opens out into a<br />
wide bridge. A time-wrinkled woman stands<br />
at its edge, gazing into the water below, a<br />
patterned cloth around her soft, curling hair.<br />
K’mot is a cow herder. She cannot remember<br />
her age, and as she pads along the damp<br />
tarmac her eyes tell more stories than the<br />
stars. “It’s going to rain,” she smiles.<br />
The road to Lak Lake is like a story. It<br />
winds past big gated houses, brick box<br />
cottages and rustic wooden cabins sitting<br />
next to each other in a somehow harmonious<br />
paradox, a little way back from the tarmac.<br />
People squat outside, their lives bared to<br />
whoever is driving past. Farmland rolls<br />
with the hills, dipping into the leafy forest<br />
around it as though someone had shaved off<br />
a chunk of the mountain and planted crops<br />
on its scalp. Dust-footed children watch,<br />
eyes wide.<br />
Eventually, QL27 falls down from the hills,<br />
pausing at a quiet, lakeside mountain town.<br />
The Lak Lake community sits around its<br />
namesake, a famous expanse of shimmering<br />
water dotted with reeds and blurry-eyed<br />
fishermen. The lake is covered in soft, gentle<br />
mist in the mornings, and turns to gold<br />
with the sun. Ethnic Jun Village sits a little<br />
to the north. It’s a tourist hotspot, and as<br />
you weave through the beautiful wooden<br />
stilt houses you can’t help but wonder what<br />
it would be like to live your whole life on<br />
show.<br />
Diary Entry #1: The Village<br />
We’ve almost reached Lak Lake, taking a break over a fresh, flowing river before we<br />
move on. A village of people have built their homes to float on the water, patching<br />
their lives together from whatever they could find. Poverty is harsh when you can’t<br />
even afford a patch of land to live on. We talk to a man on the hill beside our bridge.<br />
He is lugging long strips of bamboo down to the river bank, lifting one and standing<br />
hunched on his bare feet to throw it downhill before turning back for another. He is<br />
building a new river house. We watch his wife adjust her worn, pink jumper and pull<br />
up the bottoms of her leggings, see his little twig-like son play in the muddy river<br />
reeds, and wonder what life would be like on water, with nothing but each other.<br />
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Leaving Lak Lake for Pleiku, QL27 runs<br />
next to the water for a while, snaking<br />
over green-gold rice paddies. Giang Re,<br />
another big body of still water backed by<br />
pock-marked hills, lies about 16km from<br />
Lak Lake. Just after Ea Krong Ana, an old<br />
broken Catholic Church sits back from the<br />
road, forgotten, lying in a field of gold. Sit<br />
under the bronzed stone pillars and dream<br />
of the stories in its cold, wet stone.<br />
From here the highway is a lot straighter.<br />
Day 2: Lak Lake to Pleiku<br />
A red clay track spits off from the main road<br />
at Ea M’T’A, skirting the edge of Buon Ma<br />
Thuot. Lanky pepper trees line the road<br />
and gangly young boys rip past on mopeds,<br />
loose hair rippling in the wind. The road<br />
here is full of scars and holes, the air is<br />
strangely fragrant, almost bitter, and all is<br />
wet with the promise of rain. Soon the red<br />
blends to grey again, turning right onto the<br />
AH17. The land here is quite bland. Giant,<br />
imposing quarries line the road like gashes<br />
of blood-orange in the mountain’s green.<br />
Drive on, to Pleiku.<br />
Compared to its lush surroundings,<br />
the bustling town of Pleiku is a fairly<br />
characterless place. Just before you reach<br />
the town, climb the wide track to the top of<br />
Nui Ham Rong — the gateway to Pleiku.<br />
Get up to see the sun rise. In wet weather the<br />
mountain is smothered in mist, swallowing<br />
the track as it stretches out its fingers, feeling<br />
for its way.<br />
Diary Entry #2: Sunrise at the Lake<br />
We get up before the sun and head down to the lake — we want to see the<br />
sunrise. As we drive along the bank of that vast stretch of crystal grey, groups<br />
of Lak Lake locals power walk past in early-morning exercise gear. Fishermen<br />
glide through the water in their long, slender crafts, rubbing the sleep from<br />
their eyes. There is such a beautiful paradox of people here — a mother in pretty<br />
new jogging shoes guides her son on the smooth tarmac, while a wife squats in<br />
the dust beside the lake to clean the fish her husband caught, and a sister walks<br />
barefoot beside the road wearing bright, ethnic colours on her golden brown<br />
skin. The sun shifts but stays hidden behind the billowing clouds that have<br />
followed from Dalat. It will rain today.<br />
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Drive through Pleiku on AH17 — the<br />
road to Kon Tum is broad and smooth.<br />
Bien Ho sits on the right of the highway,<br />
hidden down a forest track. The trees thin<br />
with the road and the magnificent breadth<br />
of water behind them winks through the<br />
leaves, showing its face at the Bien Ho<br />
lookout.<br />
As you reach Phu Hoa, about one third<br />
into your journey, turn left on the TL673<br />
and follow it up to Ya Ly. This massive<br />
Day 3: Pleiku to Kon Tum<br />
expanse of water, larger than Kon Tum<br />
city, looks incredible on the map, but<br />
unfortunately access by main road is<br />
denied unless you are driving a car. The<br />
lake is, however, surrounded by dirt tracks<br />
that link a network of ethnic farming<br />
communities. Making a careful triangle<br />
back to the main road, turn left onto a dirt<br />
track about 6km back down the TL673 and<br />
follow its curves and sharp twists back to<br />
AH17.<br />
The hills lie like snakes as you enter<br />
Kon Tum, wrapping around golden green<br />
rice paddies and tickling the road with<br />
their noses. This city is truly charming.<br />
It’s home to an almost impossible number<br />
of churches, while just outside it there are<br />
more ethnic groups living totally separate<br />
lives, preserving their beautiful language<br />
and culture. Drive through Kon K’lor and<br />
Kon Knam, smile with the people and share<br />
life with them for a day. — Zoe Osborne<br />
Diary Entry #3: The Reservoir<br />
We take a detour from Pleiku to Kon Tum, slipping off the main road for a glimpse<br />
of the vast Yaly Reservoir. We are stopped at the gate — we can’t go in. As we head<br />
back to AH17, we turn left. Twisting and turning in dusty abandon, the country<br />
track that joins the highway beyond Yaly Lake is possibly one of the most exquisite<br />
parts of our journey yet. Our poor city bike struggles on the mottled clay track,<br />
now slick with the rain that has just slapped the highlands. We fall, slide into the<br />
mud. Around us is an expanse of incredible green and gold, rice fields, pepper plains<br />
and rich, dense paddocks of coffee, and rusty wooden cabins dot the road. An<br />
ethnic village unfolds. Pretty eyed cows walk with us, and their surprised herders<br />
watch us with wide eyes as we scrape the mud from our wheels.<br />
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Leaving Ho Chi Minh City is a trip of<br />
its own — between finding our way<br />
out, and the traffic, it takes us more than<br />
an hour to get out of the city. Driving on<br />
Highway 1 is dreadful, so we look for<br />
small roads heading the same way. Ending<br />
up on a back road, even if for a short time,<br />
into rural countryside following a quiet<br />
little river is a welcome intermission from<br />
busy and dusty Highway 1.<br />
Distances between towns are relatively<br />
short in the Mekong Delta. You can easily<br />
drive from Ho Chi Minh City to Can Tho in<br />
half a day and then slowly make your way<br />
Day 1: Ho Chi Minh City to Ben Tre<br />
back to the metropolis through the twist and<br />
turns of the delta.<br />
First stop, My Tho, is an unremarkable but<br />
bustling city, one of the main destinations for<br />
tourists on the one-day boat trip tours into<br />
the delta’s canals. We stop for a fresh drink<br />
by the harbour and watch the different boats<br />
on the river carrying the tourists heading for<br />
Thoi Son Island.<br />
We hoped to take a ferry for our first<br />
encounter with the river but we are told<br />
there are no longer any ferries in My Tho<br />
and that we have to take the cable-stayed<br />
Rach Mieu Bridge. These new bridges over<br />
the different arms of the Mekong are most<br />
impressive — not beautiful but spectacular.<br />
They impose themselves on the landscape<br />
as major engineering landmarks. One after<br />
another, the concrete giants speed up the<br />
socio-economic and touristic development of<br />
the region, and slowly replace the network<br />
of ferries that run across the rivers.<br />
We arrive in Ben Tre by the end of the<br />
day and check into a clean, new hotel<br />
overlooking the river. In the fresh evening<br />
air we take a long stroll on the riverside<br />
promenade, watching locals on their last<br />
errands of the day.<br />
Into the Mekong<br />
PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA<br />
88 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
Another way to discover the delta is by<br />
boat. Avoiding My Tho’s assembly line<br />
of tourists and boats, at Ben Tre’s Oasis<br />
Hotel, you can book half-day boat trips<br />
through the canals of the island, with the<br />
typical features like a coconut candy factory<br />
stop, honey tea and tropical fruits, but also<br />
an additional bicycle tour through the small<br />
alleyways between people’s houses, farms<br />
and orchards. It’s a highlight.<br />
It feels like you’re entering a secret<br />
garden, zigzagging under the palm tree<br />
Day 2: Ben Tre to Vinh Long<br />
shade where the sunshine pierces the green<br />
leaves. Time is suspended; everything is<br />
quiet, only interrupted by the laughter of<br />
children playing with a dog or the tinkle of a<br />
bell on a bicycle.<br />
From Ben Tre to Vinh Long there is still a<br />
ferry line that connects the two islands more<br />
conveniently placed than the bridge. The<br />
waiting in line to get on the ferry is a dire<br />
experience where a gas mask would be a<br />
useful accessory to ward off exhaust fumes.<br />
Once on the ferry, nobody moves, ready<br />
to start again as soon as the ferry touches the<br />
bank. The air from the river is a relief in the<br />
heat of the late daylight hours.<br />
There is nothing much to see in Vinh<br />
Long, the interest lies elsewhere. There<br />
are a lot of homestay options on An Binh<br />
Island just across the river. There, in the<br />
middle of farmland we get our dose of rural<br />
hospitality.<br />
Diary Entry #1: The Lord of the Flowers<br />
Flowers are everywhere in the south of <strong>Vietnam</strong>. I am amazed.<br />
Bougainvillea are a long-time favourite of mine, and it seems like they<br />
grow like weeds here. The sight makes me so happy, I am almost jealous.<br />
Why can’t we have this in Hanoi? The air is infused with a fragrant smell<br />
of flowers, and all I can think of is it’s time to get my balcony smelling<br />
just like that.<br />
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An Binh island is densely cultivated<br />
with rice paddies and fruit orchards.<br />
The air smells of sweet-blossomed<br />
flowers. After breakfast we borrow the<br />
homestay’s bicycles and take off for the<br />
whole morning continuing our exploration<br />
of the Mekong Delta’s deep countryside.<br />
The best way to discover this quiet,<br />
picturesque, paradise is to get lost in<br />
the narrow lanes, passing by luxuriant<br />
bougainvillea bushes, cycling on small<br />
fragrant roads boarded by orchards,<br />
houses, and cute stone or wood bridges.<br />
On this peaceful morning, southern<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong> begins to grow on me; this is my<br />
Day 3: Vinh Long to Can Tho<br />
favourite part of the trip so far.<br />
Well into the afternoon, we head<br />
towards Sa Dec to visit the house of<br />
Huynh Thuy Le, the son of a rich Chinese<br />
family, and lover of the French writer<br />
Marguerite Duras. Duras immortalised the<br />
ill-fated affair in her novel The Lover. The<br />
119-year-old house at 255A Nguyen Hue<br />
is open for visits. Its structure conforms<br />
to traditional <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese design but is<br />
combined with western influence on<br />
the façade and in the Renaissance-style<br />
ceilings. The interior is all dark wood, a<br />
strong contrast to the white stones of the<br />
exterior, and in the first room you can see<br />
all kinds of photos on the wall, some of<br />
Huynh Thuy Le himself with his wife and<br />
children, and on the other side, photos of<br />
Duras. It’s a bit disappointing, though.<br />
You’d expect some sort of romantic<br />
ambience, but the way the house and<br />
museum is set up, it’s strangely absent.<br />
We arrive in Can Tho late that afternoon<br />
after cruising around Vinh Long Province.<br />
We find a nice guesthouse by the riverside,<br />
and in what is becoming a little ritual after<br />
dinner we take a stroll on the promenade.<br />
We stop to visit Ong Temple, an exquisite<br />
and devout pagoda with an immense<br />
incense coil snaking down the ceiling.<br />
Diary Entry #2: Fish<br />
On our cycle trip around An Binh Island we find a small pond — my friend<br />
reckons it’s an aquafarm. Inside are lots and lots of koi fish. The owner of<br />
the farm sees us and instead of chasing us away shows us where the food is<br />
and demonstrates one of the most amazing sights I have ever seen in my<br />
life. As the food hits the water hundreds upon hundreds of fish emerge and<br />
fight for the scraps. Watching the mayhem is mesmerizing.<br />
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Can Tho is the main city of the Mekong<br />
delta. After the last days exploring the<br />
countryside, none of the towns we spend<br />
time in seem enjoyable whatever their<br />
reputation might be. Still, one thing to do<br />
in Can Tho is to visit the floating market.<br />
You can rent boats on the pier, but prepare<br />
to haggle. We decide to go by bike, and to<br />
Day 4: Can Tho to Ho Chi Minh City<br />
stand on the bridge to see it all. Unluckily,<br />
the time of the year we decide to go south<br />
is the time when there is no market, just a<br />
few boats here and there, and a lot more<br />
boats with disappointed tourists.<br />
Back on the road we try to stay off the<br />
main highways and enjoy the last bit of<br />
countryside before hitting the metropolis.<br />
If it wasn’t for the last 70km on Highway 1<br />
between My Tho and HCMC on a Sunday<br />
evening when everybody else goes back<br />
to the city, it would have been the perfect<br />
ride.<br />
A few days is enough for us two girls<br />
living in Hanoi to fall in love with the<br />
south. — Julie Vola<br />
Diary Entry #3: The Sunglasses Lady<br />
Traversing on the giant bridges stresses me out. People drive fast and as the wind<br />
picks up, the bike I’ve rented doesn’t feel secure. Someone passes me a bit too close<br />
and I am furious, nasty words come out of my mouth. I regret it instantly. I need<br />
to stop and get my breathing back in order. A <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese couple smile at me and<br />
ask to take photos. I oblige and turn my camera towards them, that’s when the<br />
sunglasses lady sees me and comes towards us; she looks incredible carrying all of<br />
her wares on her body. She is covered from head to toe, just her fingertips exposed.<br />
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The Deep South<br />
PHOTOS BY RODNEY HUGHES<br />
92 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
To the east of the Cambodian border<br />
in southern <strong>Vietnam</strong> is Kien Giang<br />
Province; a stretch of coastline filled with<br />
magnificent rock faces, beaches created<br />
by the silt flowing out of The Mekong,<br />
and caves to explore, many marked with<br />
scars from past wars. The far southwest,<br />
the District of Ha Tien, is home to almost<br />
45,000 people, most condensed into the<br />
town, but many farmers and fishermen<br />
have made their homes away from the<br />
town along the coastline and throughout<br />
the paddy fields.<br />
Chua Hang Pagoda in Hon Chong is<br />
40km from Ha Tien along QL80 with a long<br />
stretch of beach, home to a pagoda inside a<br />
cave. The ocean air is salty and refreshing<br />
compared to the pollution of Saigon, and<br />
the road towards it winds and dips with the<br />
sprawling landscape.<br />
Located on a dead-end street lined with<br />
vendors selling beer and beach snacks, as<br />
well as souvenirs and tourist fare, tucked<br />
away inside an unassuming building<br />
you will find the stairs down to the cave<br />
shrines; a sanctuary from the midday heat<br />
and illuminated only in neon green. The<br />
cave leads to a tunnel opening out onto the<br />
Day 1: Chua Hang to Ha Tien<br />
beach, with smaller shrines dotted along<br />
the walkway and tucked away within the<br />
limestone.<br />
Though the region is predominantly<br />
Buddhist, Catholic worshippers make up 30<br />
percent of the local people. It is interesting to<br />
observe how even in this region, where it is<br />
rumoured that Buddaghosa passed through<br />
in 450 AD, the Catholic practices borrow<br />
elements of Buddhist worship, especially at<br />
the shrines.<br />
Moso cave, located north-east of Chua<br />
Hang was a hideout of the Viet Cong<br />
during the war. To find Moso cave, we drive<br />
north along QL80, through Ba Hon fishing<br />
village, and keep our eyes peeled for the<br />
sign; it is subtle and easy to miss. The cave<br />
tour takes approximately 45 minutes, costs<br />
VND100,000 per person and demands the<br />
use of a head light for the majority of the<br />
tour. Though it is maintained for visitors,<br />
prepare to get your feet wet and slip about<br />
on the smooth rocks.<br />
Once we leave Moso cave, we continue<br />
north on the winding coast road, overshoot<br />
Ha Tien by 4km and find ourselves at Mui<br />
Nai Beach. This strip of sand is filled with<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese tourists despite the rough waves<br />
and grey clouds. Familiar tourist tarps are<br />
laid out on the concrete with snacks, beer<br />
and karaoke machines, overlooking the<br />
sea, Phu Quoc and the high mountains of<br />
Cambodia in the distance.<br />
Ha Tien town is a place many people see<br />
only in transit; but the small town divided<br />
in two by the Giang Thanh River has its own<br />
attractions.<br />
“Ha Tien has some of the best seafood,<br />
landscapes, and connections, so it is so easy<br />
to visit and explore, though many people<br />
only visit for one or two days at a time,”<br />
local tour guide Trinh Ngoc The explains.<br />
Now 57 years old, for almost two decades he<br />
was the only English-speaking tour guide in<br />
the area.<br />
One of the proudest figures of Ha Tien<br />
history is Mac Cuu who managed to claim<br />
a huge swathe of the southern portion of<br />
the Mekong Delta for the <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese in<br />
the 1700s from Cambodia. We visit the Mac<br />
family mausoleum on the west border of<br />
Ha Tien town for a peaceful retreat and<br />
an opportunity to learn about some of the<br />
region’s rich history. To this day Mac Cuu<br />
and his family are revered, and their shrine<br />
in Ha Tien is a place of pilgrimage.<br />
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Diary Entry #1: The Essence of a Motorbike Trip<br />
Throughout the day we have been reflecting on the essence of a motorbike trip. After our<br />
experience, we decided that the true crux of any two-wheeled journey is being soaked<br />
in sweat, rain and seawater, with a numb bum, sunburnt skin, and an insatiable need<br />
for ice-cold beer. We found one shop in Ha Tien with five 333 beers for sale and a bag<br />
of ice, which we enjoyed at the hotel discussing the amount we had achieved in the past<br />
24 hours; an eight-hour overnight bus trip, 100km clocked on the bike, half a tank of<br />
petrol, and more pagodas and temples than we could count. We both passed out without<br />
a second thought, dreaming of night buses, motorbike rides and our next adventure.<br />
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The sky doesn’t allow for much sun<br />
during rainy season; the thick clouds<br />
on the eastern horizon cling to the hilltops<br />
and caves protect them fiercely, though the<br />
regular showers don't last long.<br />
Arriving at Chua Xa Xia, we are greeted<br />
by two cows enjoying the soft sunlight.<br />
The temple was originally in Cambodia but<br />
the movement of borders now places it in<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>. The infrastructure is crumbling,<br />
but the shrines are well-maintained, with<br />
incense, fruit and cigarette offerings placed<br />
carefully at the feet of Buddha. Bullet holes,<br />
the physical wounds of war, pierce the<br />
walls.<br />
In January 1978, Pol Pot, determined to<br />
take the Mekong Delta for Cambodia, sent<br />
Day 2: Ha Tien to Duong Hoa<br />
troops into Ha Tien. Clashes followed and<br />
despite attempts at diplomacy, in April two<br />
Cambodian divisions were sent across the<br />
border to Ba Chuc, a village 40km northeast<br />
of Ha Tien. 3,000 people were massacred<br />
in one night. It is unclear whether Xa Xia<br />
was involved in those January 1978 clashes;<br />
the bullet holes and the personal stories of<br />
locals suggest it was, but double-checking<br />
online there is no evidence either way.<br />
The fact that we don’t know for sure is a<br />
testament to the richness of this area, to<br />
how much history there is in and around<br />
Ha Tien that has yet to be explored and<br />
unearthed.<br />
Today, the two countries are at peace,<br />
and both sides of the border are starting to<br />
thrive. As we drive around this little enclave<br />
of land that was once the source of so much<br />
antipathy, we breathe in the freshness of the<br />
air, cocoon ourselves in the lush and fertile<br />
greenery that surrounds us on all sides.<br />
Despite growing levels of tourism, and an<br />
economy that thrives on seafood, cement<br />
and construction, life continues on at its<br />
own pace; relaxed, never too chaotic, never<br />
concerned with the pressures of the big city.<br />
Yet change has also had a negative<br />
effect. Three decades ago, when the border<br />
region was still heavily forested, tigers and<br />
elephants roamed free. Now, man has taken<br />
over and the wildlife that once subsisted<br />
with its two-legged cousins has all but<br />
disappeared. — Siân Kavanagh<br />
Diary Entry #2: Temples, Temples, Temples<br />
We had optimistically set our alarm for 5.45am in the hope of shooting the sunrise<br />
over Giang Thanh River, which splits Ha Tien in two, only to awake to thick grey<br />
clouds, drizzle, and not so much a sunrise but a sky gradually brightening. We<br />
opt for a couple more hours in bed instead of trying to shoot in the rain. By 8am<br />
we are up and hop aboard the bike to make our way towards the Cambodian<br />
border, in search of an old Buddhist temple. Our hearts beat with the speed of<br />
hummingbirds as we approach the temple. We are still in <strong>Vietnam</strong>, but very close<br />
to the border, with our passports safely back at the hotel. No escape here.<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 95
Insider<br />
SPECIAL FEATURE DISTRICT 2<br />
Over the Bridge<br />
From sleepy backwater to one of the most innovative and creative areas in Saigon, Thao<br />
Dien is in lift-off mode. Nick Ross crosses the Saigon Bridge to investigate a village-like<br />
enclave with its sights firmly set on the future. Photos by Bao Zoan and Vu Ha Kim Vy<br />
There’s a map of District 2 doing<br />
the rounds of the internet, a<br />
plan which projects what this<br />
fast-changing area will look like<br />
in 2020. Look at the bottom right and<br />
you’ll see the purple and mauves of Cat<br />
Lai Industrial Zone, with its port area,<br />
factories and warehouses.<br />
Move your eyes to the centre and you’ll<br />
notice Thanh My Loi and Binh Trung<br />
Tay, residential areas covered in light and<br />
dark brown. Dark brown means already<br />
developed, light brown means new<br />
developments. Based on the map, by the end<br />
of the decade the majority of this area will be<br />
made up of new building complexes; highrises<br />
and villas. Little Singapore in unwieldy,<br />
large and boisterous Saigon.<br />
Then look up to the top left and you’ll spy<br />
An Binh and Thao Dien. Most of the An Binh<br />
developments are new. Thao Dien, however,<br />
has already been developed. One of the few<br />
sections of District 2 — then part of Thu Duc<br />
— that was populated before 1975, the justout-of-town<br />
village atmosphere that has long<br />
existed in this area first tempted non-local<br />
residents out here in the 1990s.<br />
In the last five years the interest in both<br />
living, work, eating, drinking and shopping<br />
here has gone into overdrive. Much has been<br />
written about the impending transformation<br />
of Thu Thiem, the vast swampland area in<br />
District 2, just opposite downtown Saigon.<br />
Touted as the new financial centre of the<br />
city, a space that pitches residential and<br />
commercial accommodation side-by-side,<br />
and an area that could be the face of future<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>, it’s only now that construction is<br />
starting to take place.<br />
In the meantime, the area that is showing<br />
its muscle is Thao Dien.<br />
Time and Place<br />
In early 2008 Dragon’s Nest was launched.<br />
Located opposite what is now Thao Dien<br />
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1. Thao Dien Park<br />
2. The Deck<br />
3. NTFQ 2<br />
1<br />
Village and Villa Song, the multi-storey,<br />
purpose-built villa was German-invested<br />
and stood on its own, surrounded by fields.<br />
Featuring a spa that mixed together a<br />
restaurant and bar concept with an outdoor<br />
pool, Dragon’s Nest came onto the Thao<br />
Dien scene, with publicity and chatter<br />
following its every move. Parties were even<br />
brought there with APE, one of the earliest<br />
promoters in the city, staging their first<br />
birthday celebrations on site. That was in<br />
April 2010.<br />
Yet its location was too far out of the way<br />
and there were just not enough people living<br />
in the area to make the business venture<br />
work. At the time there was not enough<br />
reason for people not living in District 2 to<br />
make the then long journey over the bridge<br />
to go to a spa and restaurant. In the summer<br />
of 2010, Dragon’s Nest finally closed its<br />
doors. The investors had had enough.<br />
Compare that to today and on almost<br />
every road in Thao Dien, new businesses<br />
are popping up. As a number of people we<br />
spoke to pointed out, the business climate is<br />
still not perfect. Yet, the knowledge that this<br />
area has immense potential is enough for<br />
erstwhile entrepreneurs to take the risk.<br />
The number of people shortly due to be<br />
living in the area adds to this confidence.<br />
About 10,000 apartment units are<br />
currently being built in Thao Dien, and<br />
across the highway in An Phu. Almost 5,000<br />
will be finished in the Masteri alone by<br />
December. The Ascent, Estella Heights, The<br />
Nassim, Gateway and Tropic Garden; all<br />
are presently being extended or built. This<br />
means 20,000 to 25,000 more people living in<br />
the area by early next year. And that’s not to<br />
mention what will happen when the metro is<br />
finished in 2019.<br />
It is no surprise then that business owners<br />
in Thao Dien are optimistic. Yet they know<br />
that to really bring in the clientele they<br />
need to make this village-like enclave into<br />
a destination, a place that will draw people<br />
out of other areas of Saigon to make that<br />
short journey over the bridge.<br />
On the Ground<br />
Soren Husted and Pia Normann set up<br />
Copenhagen Delights in 2011, a family<br />
business specialising in clothes and<br />
accessories for babies and children aged up<br />
to about 11 or 12. According to Soren they<br />
2<br />
3<br />
“Many people do not realise what a great<br />
destination District 2 is as there are so many<br />
lovely unique, independent businesses out<br />
here.” — Anupa Horvil, Anupa Boutique<br />
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4<br />
5<br />
6<br />
7<br />
“[Thao Dien] has a village character with strong connectivity; word<br />
of mouth travels super-fast. The area also has a strong appeal to<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese — it’s a desired location to live now or in the future.”<br />
— Eckart Dutz, Uncle Bill’s and The Loop<br />
4. Thao Dien Coffee<br />
5. Austin Home<br />
6. The Loop<br />
7. The Deck<br />
8. Linh Furniture<br />
9. The Deck<br />
10. Metiseko<br />
11. Mekong Merchant<br />
opened their shop in District 2 “to reach the<br />
affluent <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese customers as well as the<br />
expat community living in the area.”<br />
Using imported fabrics and sewing the<br />
garments at their own facilities in Hanoi,<br />
Soren has seen first-hand how the area<br />
has developed into a “great shopping<br />
destination.”<br />
“There are many high quality shops<br />
located here,” he explains. “It is not far from<br />
the centre of the city. The calm atmosphere<br />
in the streets and the presence of the river<br />
provides a more relaxed and authentic<br />
shopping experience.”<br />
Jim Okuley from Nutrifort also sees the<br />
value of the ambience in Thao Dien. Opened<br />
eight years ago, his business NTFQ2 was the<br />
first fitness centre located outside one of the<br />
compounds.<br />
“[Thao Dien] is small, compact and a<br />
family oriented community, like a village,”<br />
he says. “Over the years District 2 has grown<br />
to have great restaurants and bars, lots of<br />
shops, markets and spas. Now with Vincom<br />
close by [there is] great entertainment for all<br />
ages.”<br />
Boasting a state-of-the-art fitness centre<br />
set in what Jim describes as a “unique<br />
facility”, an old converted warehouse with<br />
a restaurant attached, the architecture<br />
and design provides an open and airy<br />
environment yet a very cozy feel.<br />
“NTFQ2 is a modern and timeless space<br />
that combines a fitness centre, with a healthy<br />
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8<br />
9<br />
10<br />
11<br />
“[We set up in District 2] because this is one of the most international<br />
living spaces in Ho Chi Minh City. We see Americans, Europeans,<br />
Japanese and Koreans, all living in harmony here. That’s really<br />
something that inspires us.” — Duc Nguyen, Vesta Bookstore<br />
restaurant Good Eats,” he explains, “which<br />
caters to people who want the alternative<br />
option to regular fares around town, but still<br />
love delicious food.”<br />
Boat House is another Thao Dien staple<br />
that benefits from the environment, in<br />
this instance, the leafy setting of APSC<br />
Compound and the Saigon River. The kind<br />
of place where you can relax and not hear a<br />
car or motorbike horn for hours, it’s one of<br />
the most peaceful locations in the city.<br />
Jeff Puchalski and his wife, Maggie, took<br />
over the management of the restaurant just<br />
over a year ago and have since transformed<br />
it into a casual, ‘go-to’ place with “something<br />
for everyone.”<br />
Serving up a growing assortment of<br />
American and Mexican cuisine, salads,<br />
wings, sharing plates and “some of the best<br />
drinks in the city”, what makes Boat House<br />
stand out for Jeff is “the beautiful view on<br />
the edge of the Saigon River” and the al fresco<br />
dining. He’s also added another element to<br />
the formula; live music five nights a week.<br />
In the past year he’s noticed a change in<br />
his clientele.<br />
“More and more people are gravitating<br />
this way for the first time,” he says.<br />
“Residents of District 2 have always made<br />
the 20-minute journey into the city for a<br />
good meal, so we hope we can make the<br />
trip [the opposite way] worth it for anyone<br />
around Ho Chi Minh City.”<br />
He adds: “District 2 has always been seen<br />
as an enigma or a place that is too expensive<br />
for the average person. This is not true at all.”<br />
A Short Walk in Thao Dien<br />
It’s a Tuesday afternoon, and I decide to spy<br />
out some of the businesses I’ve never been<br />
to before. So, braving the Hanoi Highway,<br />
I drive over to the main drag of Thao Dien.<br />
Down Nguyen Dang Giai is Austin Home.<br />
Set up nine years ago, with the likes of<br />
Mekong Merchant, which was originally a<br />
furniture outlet, and the long-running Linh<br />
Furniture, Austin Home was one of the first<br />
furniture showrooms to move into the area.<br />
It sells mostly top-end American brands that<br />
are produced in <strong>Vietnam</strong>; walk into the villa<br />
and you are struck by how grandiose and<br />
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colourful the place is, how comfortable it all<br />
feels. Everything here is put together with a<br />
certain type of lifestyle in mind.<br />
“We get a lot of designers and architects<br />
[shopping here],” says Austin Home’s<br />
McNeill Shiner. “Also, individuals who are<br />
looking to furnish their homes. We offer a<br />
free design consultation, so a lot of people<br />
take advantage of that. But we tend to attract<br />
people buying for the long term, not just for<br />
a few years while they’re here.”<br />
One change Austin Home has noticed<br />
over the years is the nature of the clientele.<br />
Once almost exclusively expat, now,<br />
90 percent are <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese or mixed<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese-expat couples, McNeill says.<br />
This change is something I notice on my<br />
next stop at Nam An Market. One of the<br />
better top-end, boutique-style grocery stores<br />
in the area — now there are loads — besides<br />
the standard grocery store-style products,<br />
Nam An has a butcher’s counter selling<br />
imported meats, a charcuterie and cheese<br />
section, and a selection of fresh fruit and<br />
vegetables. Except for one expat lady, the<br />
rest of the clientele are <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese or Asian.<br />
A few years ago in an equivalent type of<br />
store it would have been exclusively foreign.<br />
I then head down the road next to Mon<br />
Hue and find myself at the much-loved<br />
Tama River. With its sushi bar area, this<br />
two-floored eatery with a mezzanine level is<br />
decked out in lots of wood, the décor created<br />
in different shades of brown. Serving up a<br />
wide range of Japanese cuisine including<br />
sushi, sashimi, tempura, yakitori, udon, soba<br />
and authentic izakaya cuisine, according to<br />
Chung, the husband of the owner, besides<br />
having the ability to attract both Japanese<br />
and non-Japanese customers, there are many<br />
reasons why Tama River stands out not just<br />
in Thao Dien, but in Saigon.<br />
“There are many Japanese restaurants in<br />
District 1,” he says. “But they usually don’t<br />
have an English menu and you may find<br />
it difficult to choose what you want to eat.<br />
Our menu includes English language and<br />
pictures.”<br />
He adds: “Our restaurant is suitable for<br />
everyone and any occasion — a sushi bar<br />
12<br />
13<br />
15<br />
“It’s close to District 1 — you can<br />
escape from the bustle of the city,<br />
feel more relaxed, and yet pick up the<br />
vibe of the many small and interesting<br />
eateries that are opening up in<br />
District 2.” — Chung, Tama River<br />
14<br />
12. Amai<br />
13. MAD House<br />
14. Quan Bui Garden<br />
15. Vesta Bookstorew<br />
16. Boat House<br />
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16<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 101
17<br />
18 19<br />
“It would be great if they could sort out the flooding in the area, but I<br />
think that is Saigon in general. There needs to be more paths so people<br />
can walk around easily, and it would be great to get some parks.”<br />
— Adrian Scott, The Deck and Mekong Merchant<br />
for a solo diner or for couples, tables for<br />
family dinner or business dinner, and a<br />
large Japanese-style private room for group<br />
gatherings.”<br />
Bring on the Style<br />
My next stop is at another Japaneseinfluenced<br />
business, this time Thao Dien<br />
Coffee. A newcomer to the area, like so<br />
many other restaurants and cafés here, from<br />
the rustic décor of Mekong Merchant and<br />
the garden-style dining at Quan Bui, to the<br />
more industrial design of Kokois or the more<br />
European set-up of The Loop, Thao Dien<br />
Coffee has been designed with taste and<br />
style.<br />
Boasting two gardens created with<br />
triangular and octagonal seating and table<br />
tops flanked by lush tropical foliage, indoors<br />
is air-conditioned with white painted,<br />
bare brick walls, wooden table tops, cream<br />
upholstered chairs, an open kitchen and<br />
an atmosphere that is at once elegant and<br />
relaxing. And out front is a separate coffee<br />
bar, perfect for anyone searching for a<br />
quick takeaway. What it shows is simple —<br />
with more money and people coming into<br />
the area, clientele are expecting the local<br />
businesses to have quality. As with other<br />
relatively recent additions such as Lubu and<br />
MAD House, the bar here has been set very<br />
high. It is, after all, located opposite Les Trois<br />
Gourmands, a restaurant rated by many as<br />
the top French eatery in Saigon.<br />
After trying out the Nepalese curry<br />
at Thao Dien Coffee, I drive a few doors<br />
down to check out the communal space at<br />
Snap Café. When the idea of inviting other<br />
businesses to share their space came along, it<br />
took a while for the set-up to work — there<br />
was a period where it felt like the space<br />
was constantly being redesigned. But now<br />
11 shops sell their wares in the banana leafroofed<br />
Creative Village Space at Snap.<br />
One such place is Amai, a shop dedicated<br />
to an innovative yet reasonably priced<br />
selection of crockery. Crafted in a range of<br />
colours from pastel through to greys, blues<br />
and pinks, the cups, saucers, plates and<br />
mugs have something a little unique about<br />
them — they’re round but not quite. With its<br />
concrete grey flooring, like the neighbouring<br />
clothing shops Chula and Metiseko, Amai<br />
is representative of a more chic, more<br />
contemporary Saigon, something on display<br />
almost everywhere I visit in Thao Dien.<br />
Metiseko fits perfectly into this ilk with its<br />
floral designs and beautiful fabrics, crafted<br />
into clothing and accessories designed<br />
for the tropics or a European summer.<br />
According to Erwan Petzo, the brains behind<br />
the brand, the designs “take inspiration<br />
from <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese traditions and landscapes<br />
[to create] original fabric that captures the<br />
essence of this fascinating country while<br />
remaining stylish and desirable.”<br />
Based in Hoi An, when Erwan decided to<br />
expand to Saigon he chose District 2 to set<br />
up shop because “it is a beautiful area filled<br />
102 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
17. Even District 2 has its share of graffiti<br />
18. The bridge between Nguyen U Di and Vo<br />
Truong Toan is presently closed<br />
19. Polite roadwork signage<br />
20. Copenhagen Delights<br />
“[Thao Dien] is a great<br />
place to do business<br />
because of the other<br />
great businesses that<br />
are here. The more<br />
quality and variety in<br />
offerings, the better it<br />
is for all of us. I think<br />
one challenge is that<br />
it’s still thought of<br />
by many as an expat<br />
enclave, when really<br />
there’s something here<br />
for everyone.”<br />
— McNeill Shiner,<br />
Austin Home<br />
20<br />
with nice shops, bars and restaurants.”<br />
“District 2 is booming with innovative<br />
ideas and rent can be much less expensive<br />
than in District 1,” he explains. “[The key<br />
is] to make people, especially tourists,<br />
understand that District 2 is like a village<br />
within a city with a nice ambiance and<br />
places to stay, eat and shop.”<br />
Indeed with places like Vesta Bookstore<br />
opening up, a centre that sells gifts,<br />
magazines, books, stationery and art<br />
supplies, and also runs art classes for both<br />
adults and children, there is also a growing<br />
cultural element to the area. Add to this<br />
Saigon Outcast, The Factory and Vin Space,<br />
and the trendy, village-like, cultural oasis<br />
that everyone is talking about is now a<br />
reality.<br />
Teething Problems<br />
As I drive back home I encounter one of<br />
the main irritations that affects the lifestyle<br />
out here — the roads. At present the bridge<br />
connecting the main drag of Thao Dien with<br />
the next area down that is home to Riverside<br />
Apartments and the International School of<br />
Ho Chi Minh City (ISHCMC) is closed; it’s<br />
being rebuilt. Due to the construction of the<br />
metro and the apartment complex Masteri,<br />
the slip road running past Vincom is also<br />
cut off. This means to get to Riverside or the<br />
Vista I have to drive back to Saigon Bridge<br />
and then all the way up the Hanoi Highway.<br />
It’s a round trip of almost 6km.<br />
By the end of the year this will be<br />
resolved; the blocked roads are part of the<br />
reconstruction of this area. Look at that<br />
map of District 2 and you can see that in<br />
2020 a new road structure will be in place.<br />
Including a bridge to Thanh Da Island and<br />
through roads linking up the at-present<br />
cut off sections of Thao Dien, the transport<br />
connections should in theory alleviate rushhour<br />
traffic and mean that you can get to all<br />
sections of the area without having to resort<br />
to the highway.<br />
In the meantime, residents of the area<br />
have to suffer. It’s frustrating, yet there is<br />
so much positivity about the future of Thao<br />
Dien Village that for now the residents and<br />
business owners are prepared to grit their<br />
teeth and bear it.<br />
Working Together<br />
A number of businesses in Thao Dien<br />
have teamed up to create a map of the<br />
area. The map is hand-drawn by Bridget<br />
March and is available at the following<br />
locations:<br />
Amai<br />
Austin Home Interiors<br />
Boathouse<br />
Copenhagen Delights<br />
Home in Saigon Real Estate<br />
Instore Furniture<br />
Linh’s Furniture<br />
MAD House<br />
Mekong Merchant<br />
Metiseko<br />
Nam An Market<br />
NTFQ 2<br />
Quan Bui Garden<br />
Tama River<br />
Thao Dien Coffee<br />
The Deck<br />
The Loop<br />
Uncle Bill’s<br />
Vesta Bookstore<br />
For further info, please email Anupa on<br />
anu@anupa.net<br />
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SPECIAL FEATURE DISTRICT 2<br />
Mui Den Do<br />
The development in Saigon is not just eating up green land and turning it into<br />
high-rises, it’s also annihilating the city’s history. <strong>Word</strong>s by Matthew Cowan<br />
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“‘The site has a quite high<br />
ecological value, so it will be a big<br />
loss to the environment’“<br />
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“At the site, where apparently a<br />
network of underground tunnels once<br />
existed, three young guerrillas — Nguyen<br />
Van Ba, Le Van San and Ho Van Nhai —<br />
are immortalised as martyrs”<br />
If you look to the right as you cross Phu My<br />
Bridge from District 7, you’ll see a triangle<br />
of land jutting out into the Saigon River.<br />
It’s just about the only large parcel of land<br />
surviving that hasn’t fully met the wrath of<br />
the bulldozer. Given the more scenic vista of<br />
the Saigon skyline on the opposite side of the<br />
bridge, this landmark tends to go unnoticed.<br />
But if you do look, you’ll see verdant<br />
swatches of mangroves, swamps and coconut<br />
palms clinging to life amid the growing<br />
squeeze of development and heavy industry.<br />
If high-rise apartments are the bullies, then<br />
nature is surely the bullied as development’s<br />
march to the river is approaching its final<br />
phase.<br />
Now, the Van Thinh Phat Investment<br />
Company (VTP) plans a US$6 billion<br />
modern urban development over 118<br />
hectares called Saigon Peninsula, which<br />
will include a theme park, luxury riverfront<br />
villas, premium apartment complexes, office<br />
buildings, a deluxe hotel, shopping centres<br />
and an international cruise terminal. VTP<br />
has partnered up with Malaysian developers<br />
Pavilion Group and Genting Group to bring<br />
the plan to fruition.<br />
“The site has a quite high ecological<br />
value,” says Dang Thanh Long, executive<br />
director of <strong>Vietnam</strong> Green Building Council,<br />
referring to the mangroves lining the<br />
riverbanks. “So it will be a big loss to the<br />
environment.”<br />
Racing the Dozer<br />
I decided to get a closer look before the<br />
bulldozer beat me to it, after a tip-off from<br />
a friend who told me the site had once been<br />
a US naval base. From a distance, there’s<br />
nothing obvious to suggest there was ever a<br />
base here, although from the bridge, a small<br />
outpost at the river mouth, visible to the<br />
naked eye, hints at otherwise. Hoping there<br />
might be evidence of the war at ground level<br />
that can’t be seen from a height, I set out on<br />
a mission.<br />
My mission would eventually take me<br />
three attempts. The first one was viewing it<br />
from Phu My Bridge. The second was across<br />
land by motorbike, which turned out a<br />
fruitless pursuit as the few remaining tracks<br />
eventually led to very swampy dead ends.<br />
And the third by boat, thanks to the kindness<br />
of some local fishermen curious as to why<br />
a foreigner would be so eager to ride a boat<br />
past shipyards, piledrivers and dredgers.<br />
On the Other Side<br />
At the very tip of this triangular-shaped<br />
headland there’s a small navigational tower<br />
— number 62 to be precise — painted in<br />
familiar red and white stripes with a red<br />
beacon on top that signals to vessels in the<br />
night they’re entering or leaving the Saigon<br />
River.<br />
The tower stands in the garden of a<br />
small dwelling. The dwelling could be<br />
the home of a live-in caretaker, but most<br />
likely it’s an office of some kind. Detached<br />
from the dwelling stands a small enclosed<br />
tower, maybe a crow’s nest, or a place<br />
where a government official might take up<br />
position during a storm to keep watch for<br />
emergencies among the boats plying the<br />
river. On this day, the regularly scheduled<br />
afternoon storm clouds that roll in across<br />
the city this time of year were still far away,<br />
offering one possible explanation as to why<br />
there wasn’t anyone there.<br />
The garden is well-kept and from the<br />
outside, the buildings seem well-maintained.<br />
Someone obviously cares for the place. From<br />
memory there were flowers in bloom and the<br />
usual assortment of tropical plants, bananas<br />
and coconuts, with their fronds flapping in<br />
the gentle morning breeze. Among them I<br />
recognised some flame trees, but I could be<br />
wrong as they were without their distinct<br />
fire-coloured flowers that give them their<br />
name.<br />
Still, this little point at the confluence of<br />
the Saigon and Lon Tau Rivers, idyllic as it<br />
106 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
sounds, won’t be making the top 10 list of<br />
travel websites any time soon.<br />
Mui Den Do<br />
This place, known as Mui Den Do, is the<br />
perfect vantage point for surveying the river<br />
traffic from the East Sea or from any of the<br />
hundreds, perhaps thousands, of waterways<br />
that make up the pastiche of the Mekong<br />
Delta.<br />
During the war, the Americans recognised<br />
Mui Den Do’s strategic position and<br />
commandeered it. In fact, half a century ago<br />
this year, the site became a US naval base<br />
and was known as Nha Be US Naval Support<br />
Activity Base.<br />
At that time, Mui Den Do was at the<br />
northern-most point of what was known<br />
as the Rung Sac Special Zone. It stretched<br />
down to Can Gio and included what is now<br />
known as the Can Gio Mangrove Forest. In<br />
total, it covered 1,256 square kilometres of<br />
tidal mangrove swamp and close to 5,000<br />
kilometres of connected waterways. The road<br />
down to Can Gio is still called Rung Sac to<br />
this day.<br />
The zone was a heavily contested swathe<br />
of territory because of its strategic location.<br />
The waters of its rivers and estuaries, flowed<br />
out past Vung Tau, as they still do, before<br />
emptying into the East Sea only to return on<br />
the changing tide. Anyone controlling the<br />
zone, especially the Lon Tau River, controlled<br />
the flow of supplies coming in and out of the<br />
Port of Saigon.<br />
Go O Moi<br />
Just as I’d almost given up hope of finding<br />
war-related remnants at Mui Den Do, I<br />
happened upon a historic site not 200 metres<br />
from the Saigon Peninsula development<br />
security gate on a road called Depot Dao Tri.<br />
Its name is Go O Moi, or in English Go O<br />
Mound.<br />
On the morning of Nov. 23, 1966, it was the<br />
site of a battle between US-backed forces and<br />
heavily outnumbered resistance fighters —<br />
one side 400 strong, with helicopter support;<br />
the other a minor detachment of men with<br />
small arms.<br />
At the site, where apparently a network<br />
of underground tunnels once existed, three<br />
young guerrillas — Nguyen Van Ba, Le Van<br />
San and Ho Van Nhai — are immortalised<br />
as martyrs who fought back and killed six<br />
of the attacking force, but were eventually<br />
outnumbered and overcome.<br />
A moving tribute inscribed on the<br />
monument reads:<br />
The heroes fall, the spirit will shine, the battle<br />
of O Moi mound showed the bravery of Nha Be’s<br />
soldiers and people who never backed down to<br />
fight for our country’s liberation.<br />
Finding What Matters<br />
Although I wouldn’t realise it until later, at<br />
Go O Moi I had found what I was looking<br />
for. It wasn’t the remains of an old military<br />
sign or building left over from the war. It was<br />
something more profound hidden<br />
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“‘It’s about the local population and what they want…<br />
Any developing country wants to see that their country<br />
is advancing, developing and getting closer to the<br />
developed nations. This type of project is a symbol that<br />
their country is getting better’”<br />
108 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
ehind a clutch of nipa palms where the<br />
din of development is muffled by thick<br />
vegetation and given over to the sounds of a<br />
few remaining bird species and critters that<br />
inhabit the place.<br />
It occurred to me that here still remains a<br />
place of battle after all these years. Fifty years<br />
ago the three local Nha Be soldiers made the<br />
ultimate sacrifice fighting in a battle for what<br />
they believed in. Today, it appears battles<br />
are still being waged. Not of life and death<br />
such as those that confronted the martyrs on<br />
that fateful day in 1966 — nor should they<br />
be compared as such — but battles shaping<br />
livelihoods, the environment and <strong>Vietnam</strong>’s<br />
development.<br />
Families living and working here do so<br />
amid a different kind of enemy. Container<br />
trucks and cement mixers rumble past<br />
around the clock spewing carbon monoxide<br />
and dust particles into the air and into lungs.<br />
Unsealed roads have become quagmires<br />
from monsoonal rains. Some sections look as<br />
though small artillery shells have detonated,<br />
such is the width and depth of crater-sized<br />
potholes.<br />
To make matters worse, with every passing<br />
vehicle, a grey slurry of cement, oil and dirt<br />
threatens to cover anything or anyone within<br />
range. When I stopped for a drink, one trader<br />
selling meat lain out on a trestle just a metre<br />
or so from a passing cement mixer, shook her<br />
head and pointed to the road in front of her<br />
shop and told me it was ugly and dirty.<br />
Yet, Nhan Nguyen, founder of local nonprofit<br />
organisation Green and Clean, offered<br />
an alternative perspective when asked what<br />
the general feeling might be among the<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese people towards projects like<br />
Saigon Peninsula.<br />
“It’s about the local population and<br />
what they want,” he said. “I think that any<br />
developing country — the government<br />
and population — want to see that their<br />
country is advancing, developing and getting<br />
closer to the developed nations. I think the<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese really like this type of project<br />
because it’s a symbol that their country is<br />
getting better.”<br />
Symbols<br />
That evening at home, I found myself<br />
pondering over my experience and arrived<br />
at the symbolism of the three martyrs lying<br />
in the Go O Moi memorial. Half a century<br />
on, they’re still playing a role. To me, they<br />
symbolise the past, present and future of<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>. Of the battles against the odds,<br />
the battles for a decent livelihood, and the<br />
battles going on over the environment and<br />
development.<br />
On a banner that hangs at the Go O Moi<br />
monument it says:<br />
Always remember those heroes, invalids<br />
and martyrs who sacrificed their lives for the<br />
liberation, protection and building of our country.<br />
As the new <strong>Vietnam</strong> relentlessly builds on<br />
its past, literally and figuratively, it’s worth<br />
taking the time to consider the words on the<br />
banner and hope that the developers of Mui<br />
Den Do, 50 years after the battle at Go O Moi,<br />
remember them too.<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 109
Food and Drink<br />
EAT & DRINK<br />
HCMC<br />
Hidden Gems
When it comes to good food, each of the team at <strong>Word</strong> has their little secrets,<br />
restaurants or streetfood joints they go to get a certain fix. Here's a selection.<br />
Bun Thit Nuong Chi Tuyen<br />
195 Co Giang, Q1<br />
Com Ga Hai Nam<br />
67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1<br />
The sheer size of the dish<br />
means I can never finish<br />
a bowl of bun thit nuong at this<br />
place. It’s a big bowl of noodles,<br />
grilled pork, stir-fried pork,<br />
deep fried spring rolls, pickles<br />
and vegetables. The lean pork is<br />
marinated with the right amount<br />
of spices and then grilled well<br />
enough to get the brownish<br />
colour and smoky aroma. The<br />
spring rolls contain ground<br />
pork, shredded jicama, wood ear<br />
mushrooms and mung beans,<br />
creating a perfect mixed taste. The<br />
dipping sauce is made from exact<br />
portions of ingredients to match<br />
the right sweetness, sourness<br />
and saltiness. No wonder it costs<br />
VND45,000 per bowl.<br />
If your stomach still has space,<br />
steamed banh mi with stir-fried<br />
beef would be another good<br />
choice. It comes served with a<br />
tray of lettuce, cucumber and<br />
some herbs used to cover the<br />
banh mi and the beef, which you<br />
then dip in the sauce. This is also<br />
priced at VND45,000 per plate.<br />
Lots of places serve up bun thit<br />
nuong in this city, but Chi Tuyen is<br />
one of the best. — Vu Ha Kim Vy<br />
This chicken rice joint isn’t<br />
exactly a secret — somehow<br />
it’s got itself into the tourist<br />
guidebooks — and yet when it<br />
comes to Hainanese chicken rice,<br />
the most famous export from<br />
the island located in the Gulf of<br />
Tonkin, this joint excels. Give<br />
me a plate of rice with boiled<br />
chicken and char sieu (xa xiu)<br />
pork and my stomach is purring<br />
for days. The chicken is tender<br />
and rich, the pork sweet and<br />
yet not overwhelming, the rice<br />
flavoursome from being cooked<br />
in chicken stock, the dipping<br />
sauces a perfect match for the<br />
moreish fare. Best, it costs under<br />
VND50,000 a go.<br />
Yet Singaporeans, those people<br />
from the land that has adopted<br />
chicken rice as their national dish,<br />
don’t seem to like this place. “The<br />
chicken rice is really poor,” said<br />
one after I mentioned the eatery<br />
to them in a bar. Another agreed.<br />
I was surprised.<br />
The problem is that Com Ga<br />
Hai Nam unashamedly state they<br />
do their chicken rice Singaporeanstyle.<br />
Yet they don’t. Like almost<br />
every imported streetfood dish,<br />
the fare has been adapted to the<br />
local palate.<br />
Perhaps the reason for the<br />
claim is to distinguish themselves<br />
from other versions of chicken<br />
rice found in <strong>Vietnam</strong> — com ga<br />
from Hoi An and com ga from Tam<br />
Ky, two towns in Quang Nam that<br />
have taken this dish imported by<br />
seafaring Chinese merchants and<br />
adapted it to taste. In that sense<br />
this joint is certainly different. Yet,<br />
whatever the Singaporeans say, I<br />
love this place.<br />
There are other dishes on<br />
the menu, too. Roasted pork<br />
and duck plus a whole host of<br />
Chinese and <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese staples.<br />
But come rain or deadly Saigon<br />
shine, it’s the chicken rice that I<br />
always end up coming back for.<br />
— Nick Ross<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 111
Viet Chay Restaurant<br />
Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3<br />
Being set inside one of Saigon’s most<br />
famous landmarks doesn’t really make<br />
Viet Chay a secret hideaway. Yet, the<br />
never-ending stream of tourists entering<br />
the courtyard hardly stop by. Most head<br />
to the statue of Quan Am, the Goddess of<br />
Mercy, to say their prayers, while others<br />
take a selfie in front of the pagoda or the<br />
standard postcard shot.<br />
Yet if you venture to the left of Quan<br />
Am, past a large tree, you arrive at one of<br />
the best vegetarian restaurants in town.<br />
With only three tables outdoors you’d<br />
better be early. Otherwise you’ll be sitting<br />
inside.<br />
This is Viet Chay, vegetarian eatery,<br />
a place I go for breakfast. They have<br />
two options daily and every day they<br />
rotate the menu. How about a bowl of mi<br />
quang or bun bo Hue? Come on Sunday<br />
morning and you can get both, served with<br />
complimentary tea. I recommend the hot<br />
version, tra nong. Brewed with tea leaves<br />
from the north and occasionally mixed<br />
with ginger, a mug goes down fast.<br />
Sit and enjoy the view. Watch Saigon’s<br />
best-fed pigeons wobble around. So used<br />
to the traffic, they don’t even bother to<br />
lift their wings when motorbikes arrive,<br />
only quicken their pace a bit. Filter out the<br />
traffic noises from the road and you can<br />
listen to the monks; their daily morning<br />
chants can be heard all the way to your<br />
breakfast table. A pleasant, tasty and<br />
healthy way to start the day. — Mads<br />
Monsen<br />
PHOTO BY KYLE PHANROY<br />
Bun Mam Phan Boi Chau<br />
22 Phan Boi Chau, Q1<br />
Located opposite the East Gate of<br />
Ben Thanh Market, this place has<br />
been running for more than 40 years.<br />
Although it’s quite pricy (VND65,000<br />
per bowl), the joint has been my<br />
favourite option for bun mam since the<br />
day I first found it.<br />
A bowl contains a combination of<br />
ingredients including rice noodles,<br />
shrimp, fish slices, roasted pork and<br />
fish cake, yet while normal bun mam<br />
is pungent and unappealing, here it’s<br />
surprisingly aromatic. The reason,<br />
according to the owner, is the use of<br />
fresh, quality ingredients — this gets rid<br />
of the fishy smell. Add some bitter herbs<br />
and vegetables to boost the combination<br />
of bitterness and sweetness from the<br />
fish paste, and you have heaven in a<br />
bowl. The charm of bun mam is this<br />
combination sweet and bitter — the<br />
broth is the vital element of the dish.<br />
Apart from bun mam, the place also<br />
serves up banh canh cua (crab tapioca<br />
noodle soup), fresh spring rolls, papaya<br />
salad, and lotus stem salad. All highly<br />
recommended. — Vu Ha Kim Vy<br />
112 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
Pagoda Mi Quang<br />
Chua T.T. An Hoa, Cnr. Quoc Huong and Duong 65, Thao Dien, Q2<br />
Next to the pagoda on Quoc Huong<br />
in District 2 is a little, chicken-wire<br />
windowed joint that serves up bun bo Hue on<br />
plastic tables atop a concrete floor. But it’s not<br />
the bun bo I go there for, which is probably the<br />
best you’ll get in Thao Dien, but the mi quang,<br />
which is sublime.<br />
The problem with the mi quang is how<br />
quickly it sells out. Get there by 8am and<br />
it will all be gone, by 7.30am and you’ll be<br />
just about okay. That’s how popular this<br />
Quang Nam, thick yellow noodle dish is at<br />
this eatery. Served up with pork, shrimp,<br />
cha, rice crackers, peanuts, chopped spring<br />
onions, a mixture of white and yellow<br />
noodles and that to-die-for spicy sauce<br />
that is the making of every good mi quang,<br />
for me it’s the best version available in<br />
Saigon. It only costs VND25,000 a bowl as<br />
well (including free iced tea), not bad for<br />
probably the wealthiest area in the city.<br />
What I also love about this eatery is how<br />
clean it is. Walk in and it looks like every<br />
other streetfood joint in this country — basic<br />
with its silver stools and plastic tables. Yet,<br />
look closely and the place is spotless and<br />
well-organised. When I eat streetfood, I<br />
always look for three things; taste, cleanliness<br />
and price. This place ticks all the boxes and<br />
more. — Nick Ross<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 113
PHOTO BY FRANCIS XAVIER<br />
114 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
Oc Muoi<br />
168/45 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1<br />
Tucked in an alley on Nguyen Cu Trinh,<br />
Oc Muoi has been my favourite seafood<br />
place for many years. Set up outside under<br />
the porch roof with plastic stools and<br />
tables, the place has a wide range of snails<br />
and shellfish displayed in stainless trays.<br />
The most interesting thing about this<br />
place is that most dishes are priced at<br />
VND20,000. The portions, which could<br />
be stir-fried sweet snails with tamarind,<br />
grilled scallops with cheese or spicy<br />
steamed clams with lemongrass, are not<br />
big, but enough for two people. Crabs are<br />
also served for VND45,000 each with three<br />
options including stir-fried with tamarind,<br />
stir-fried with salt and chilli, and boiled.<br />
There is a bakery next door, where you<br />
can find hot breads to dip in the butter or<br />
tamarind sauce from the dishes.<br />
Open from 11am to 9pm, the place is<br />
my top choice for seafood because of its<br />
cheapness and freshness. All snails and<br />
shellfish are purchased and sold on the<br />
same day. Crabs are kept alive and put in<br />
a big basin for clients to choose and decide<br />
how to have them cooked.<br />
For enjoy this place best, order beer —<br />
a perfect complement to these salty and<br />
spicy dishes. It definitely brightens your<br />
day. — Vu Ha Kim Vy<br />
Banh Mi Kebab<br />
Banh Mi Nhu Lan, 50 Ham Nghi, Q1<br />
Operating for over four decades, the<br />
24-hour Banh Mi Nhu Lan isn't quite<br />
a secret. Located diagonally opposite the<br />
Bitexco Tower, it also boasts one of the best<br />
locations in town. However, there is one type<br />
of banh mi that this joint sells that is not only<br />
to die for — it’s my favourite snack food<br />
when I’ve got early evening hunger pangs<br />
— but is not so well known by its customers.<br />
Yes, it’s the infamous banh mi kebab.<br />
The <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese take on the Turkish kebab<br />
is hardly new to either Saigon or Hanoi.<br />
However, Nhu Lan’s version is certainly the<br />
tastiest I’ve come across. Barbecued on a spit,<br />
the pork here is fatty, tasty and succulent,<br />
without that feeling of being greasy. And<br />
added into a traditional banh mi with all the<br />
accoutrements — butter, pate, pickled carrot<br />
and radish, chilli, coriander and cucumber<br />
— the final version is just, well, moreish. It’s<br />
cheap, too — VND25,000 a go, VND35,000 if<br />
you add extra meat in there.<br />
For a while Nhu Lan was actually serving<br />
up the humble kebab in its own, home-made<br />
flatbread. Toasted in a Breville, I loved it. But<br />
it seems the mainly <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese customers<br />
didn’t, and on my last two visits I was told<br />
they didn’t sell the flatbread any more. Not<br />
to worry, though, the banh mi version tastes<br />
just as good. — Nick Ross<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 115
Food and Drink<br />
TOP EATS<br />
HANOI<br />
Don’s Tay Ho<br />
One of the first restaurants in Tay Ho, according to <strong>Word</strong>, Don's is still one of the best.<br />
<strong>Word</strong>s by Bennett Murray. Photos by Julie Vola<br />
Summertime in Hanoi has brought<br />
generous set lunches and brunches<br />
to Don’s, where diners are invited<br />
to overdose on a menu featuring<br />
the best of the globetrotting namesake’s<br />
eclectic menu.<br />
Don Berger, originally from Montreal,<br />
worked in kitchens from Shanghai to Monte<br />
Carlo before moving to <strong>Vietnam</strong> 17 years ago.<br />
Like a seasoned traveller with a living room<br />
decorated with oddities, Berger’s menu items<br />
are inspired from each locale that at one time<br />
or another he has called home.<br />
“There’s a lot of different things on offer<br />
here, and you can come here and spend<br />
a lot of money if you order a really nice<br />
bottle of wine and truffles… but you can<br />
be out of here for about US$10 a head,”<br />
says Don.<br />
A Global Affair<br />
The summer luncheon includes 16 mains<br />
ranging from BBQ sea bass and salmon<br />
salad to the beef taco grande.<br />
Of particular noteworthiness are the<br />
Hawaiian fried chicken sliders, which were<br />
inspired by a stint in the American state.<br />
Each slider is cooked with a savoury<br />
Korean BBQ sauce, giving an elegant twist<br />
to a dish perhaps more associated with<br />
Harold and Kumar. While the buns are<br />
small, each slider packs more chicken than<br />
meets the eye.<br />
The lunch specials, which include a free<br />
drink and dessert, are VND289,000.<br />
Weekends feature a two-course brunch<br />
special served from 11am to 5pm. Options,<br />
which comprise 24 combinations, include the<br />
smoked salmon bagel in the Montreal style.<br />
“Montreal is mad about bagels, it’s<br />
really a passion,” says Don. “And there are<br />
two very famous bagel factories with wood<br />
burning ovens. Ours are exactly the same<br />
because I’ve worked on perfecting it.”<br />
The Canadian lobster, crab and avocado<br />
salad is also a winner. With live lobsters<br />
imported from the Nova Scotian coast, the<br />
cold water shellfish is far superior to its<br />
tropical counterpart.<br />
For real seafood aficionados, combine<br />
your lobster with a first course of oysters<br />
— you have a choice between three baked<br />
oysters with goat’s cheese, sundried<br />
tomatoes, spinach and bacon or the trio of<br />
one live, one fried and one baked.<br />
The brunch, which also includes a free<br />
drink and dessert, is VND349,000.<br />
Making the Grade<br />
Restaurants that try to do everything<br />
usually fall short. Chefs who try to balance<br />
menu items from across the cuisines often<br />
find themselves spread too thin, with<br />
ingredients being subpar and staff unable<br />
to cope with the variety.<br />
But with a kitchen staff of 35, state-ofthe-art<br />
gear and decades of experience,<br />
Don’s doesn’t have that problem.<br />
“I like to eat, and not all the same things<br />
all the time,” says Don. “And it’s reflective<br />
of what I’ve learnt and what I know how<br />
to do.”<br />
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Food and Drink<br />
STREET SNACKER<br />
HANOI<br />
Banh My Pho Hue<br />
Banh my is everywhere in Hanoi, but one eatery on Pho Hue serves the <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
baguette the way it used to be made. <strong>Word</strong>s by Tran Cam Thu. Photos by Julie Vola<br />
With so many shops offering<br />
twists on <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese the<br />
breakfast staple banh my: banh<br />
my thit nuong, banh my kebab,<br />
banh my chao, a newcomer to Hanoi and<br />
probably anyone born in the city after 1990<br />
might start to wonder what the original<br />
flavour of banh my is. Look no further than<br />
Banh My Pho Hue, a shop that still sells<br />
banh my the way most people who grew<br />
up in Hanoi in the 1980s remember it.<br />
Situated on busy Pho Hue, this<br />
unassuming shop can be easily overlooked<br />
even by locals who frequent this street.<br />
Yet the word of its goodness spreads as far<br />
as to Saigon — whose version of banh mi<br />
(note the different spelling) made its way<br />
to the Oxford English dictionary in 2011<br />
thanks to the flow of southern <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
immigrating overseas and bringing along<br />
their favourite breakfast/snack.<br />
In Touch with Tradition<br />
The shop offers three versions of banh my;<br />
its signature banh my pate, Hanoi longtime<br />
favourite banh my trung (omelette<br />
baguette), and banh my pate trung (pate<br />
omelette baguette) — a twist on the omelette<br />
baguette. For the signature banh my pate,<br />
the banh my is first warmed and toasted in<br />
a simple oven. This step is not taken lightly<br />
since the bread should not be too crunchy<br />
that it crumbles at the very first bite yet the<br />
baguette needs to be hot enough to melt<br />
away the butter and pate.<br />
A thin layer of butter is then spread on<br />
both inner sides of the banh my, paving the<br />
way for the grand entrance of liver pate that<br />
is generously applied right after. Then comes<br />
thinly sliced <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese sausages and char<br />
siu pork that is deftly mixed with salt and<br />
pepper right before being stuffed into the<br />
baguette. Finally, pork floss, sliced cucumber<br />
and optional house chilli gravy seal the deal.<br />
As the name suggests, banh my pate puts<br />
a stronger focus on pate, the make-or-break<br />
ingredient in this sandwich. Interestingly<br />
enough, the recipe for good pate includes<br />
bread crumbs.<br />
Similarly, banh my thit or banh my Saigon,<br />
as Hanoians call it, is more of a symphony<br />
of multiple kinds of hams and spiced pork<br />
whereas pate plays a supporting role. For<br />
spreads, Hanoians prefer soft butter rather<br />
than mayonnaise.<br />
For vegetables, only a few slices of<br />
cucumber and occasionally one or two stems<br />
of cilantro are added, while in Saigon it’s<br />
pickled vegetables and spring onions. The<br />
reason is to maintain the crunchiness of the<br />
bread and to not overpower the main pate<br />
flavour. For dressing, only a pinch of salt and<br />
pepper is sprinkled instead of soy sauce, so<br />
as not to soften the bread inside.<br />
Passing Fads<br />
In the early 2000s, banh my Nhu Lan hailing<br />
from Saigon made waves in Hanoi thanks<br />
to its meaty and fresh take on the onedimensional<br />
(in the words of BBC Travel)<br />
banh my Hanoi. So did banh my kebab and<br />
many other trends that followed.<br />
Yet after fads come and go, banh my fans<br />
are happy to return to establishments such as<br />
the 40-plus-year-old Banh my pho Hue, which<br />
never fails to deliver that solid goodness of<br />
banh my pate that made them fall in love with<br />
banh my in the first place.<br />
Banh My Pho Hue is at 118 Pho Hue, Hai Ba<br />
Trung, Hanoi. It is open from 6.30am to 7pm<br />
daily<br />
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Food and Drink<br />
MYSTERY DINER<br />
HCMC<br />
Monsoon Restaurant<br />
and Bar Saigon<br />
A purveyor of Southeast Asian cuisine, in recent times Monsoon has switched its focus to<br />
all things Thai. So how does this colonial villa Saigon staple fare? Photos by Rodney Hughes<br />
Just a stone’s throw away<br />
from Bui Vien and Nguyen<br />
Cu Trinh, this staple of<br />
Saigon’s culinary scene<br />
has been home to many flavours<br />
over the years. Decorated with<br />
beautiful, Hoi An-style lanterns<br />
and large mirrors, the large space<br />
appears even larger at first, yet is<br />
fantastically intimate. The lighting<br />
is lush and low without losing<br />
visibility, creating a beautiful<br />
atmosphere.<br />
Upon arrival, my date and I were<br />
greeted with two refreshing glasses<br />
of lemongrass juice which was a nice<br />
touch, and the simplicity of the spicy<br />
nuts served as a light snack were<br />
super delicious.<br />
We opted for soft drinks instead<br />
of the usual beer (Tiger or Saigon<br />
would set you back VND45,000) to<br />
accompany our Thai food. I ordered<br />
the orchid soda (VND70,000),<br />
a slightly sour and fabulously<br />
thirst-quenching drink, while my<br />
date opted for the aloe vera juice<br />
(VND45,000).<br />
Multiple Choice<br />
While Monsoon offers Thai,<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese, Laotian and Burmese<br />
cuisine — we decided to focus our<br />
efforts on Thai food. We ordered<br />
fried catfish and mango salad<br />
(VND130,000), tom yum goong soup<br />
(VND140,000), green chicken curry<br />
with Thai sticky rice (VND130,000),<br />
and pad Thai (VND150,000).<br />
The service staff at Monsoon were<br />
attentive and friendly, offering to<br />
answer any questions to the best<br />
of their ability, and they started<br />
bringing out our drinks and orders<br />
as soon as they were available. The<br />
one issue was, however, with the<br />
amount we had ordered — our<br />
two-person table was quickly taken<br />
over by plates, bowls, and containers<br />
of rice.<br />
The crunchy fried catfish paired<br />
with the spicy and tart mango salad<br />
proved to be a delight for the taste<br />
buds, the combination of textures<br />
and flavours working together in a<br />
beautiful harmony. The fried catfish<br />
was unlike any fried protein I’d tried<br />
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THE VERDICT<br />
13<br />
FOOD<br />
11<br />
SERVICE<br />
12<br />
DÉCOR<br />
before, as the texture was so light<br />
and savoury in contrast with the<br />
fleshy, sweet mango salad.<br />
All Harmony<br />
Tom yum goong soup is a prime<br />
example of delicious Thai food<br />
with the lovely light spice,<br />
lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves.<br />
An authentic tom yum goong should<br />
not overwhelm the dish with any<br />
of these flavours, but play them in<br />
harmony, and the result from the<br />
Monsoon kitchen was lovely.<br />
Green curry with chicken was<br />
served alone, we had to order the<br />
side of Thai sticky rice as an extra,<br />
and it was needed to dilute the<br />
intense flavours. As with a good<br />
green curry the kaffir lime leaves<br />
and fish sauce lead the way on the<br />
palette, however the curry paste<br />
was rather grainy. The dish was<br />
served with tender slices of chicken<br />
and small fat onions which were a<br />
textural delight.<br />
What Thai meal would be<br />
complete without sampling the pad<br />
Thai? A good pad Thai must, like all<br />
Asian food, find the perfect balance<br />
of spices, textures and flavours. The<br />
Monsoon version was a delight,<br />
with tiny, dried shrimp and tofu<br />
pieces, as well as larger fresh<br />
shrimps, the noodles were perfectly<br />
textured against the peanuts and<br />
bean sprouts.<br />
After our feast of food, we still<br />
decided that we would have to order<br />
dessert. The fried banana and vanilla<br />
ice cream (VND80,000) was the<br />
consensus of the table and whithin<br />
minutes there wasn’t a morsel left<br />
to eat, even though just 10 minutes<br />
earlier we’d been complaining<br />
about how full we were. The fried<br />
banana wasn’t overly sweet by any<br />
means, and the savoury, warm batter<br />
provided the perfect backdrop for the<br />
vanilla ice cream to end our meal.<br />
We had a feast of five dishes for<br />
two at a cost of VND1.07 million<br />
which, considering the quality of the<br />
food, seems perfectly reasonable for<br />
such a centrally located restaurant.<br />
Monsoon Restaurant and Bar is at 1<br />
Cao Ba Nha, Q1, HCMC<br />
Food, Decor and<br />
Service are each<br />
rated on a scale<br />
of 0 to 15.<br />
13 — 15<br />
extraordinary to<br />
perfection<br />
10 — 12.5<br />
very good to<br />
excellent<br />
8 — 9.5 good to<br />
very good<br />
5 — 7.5 fair to<br />
good<br />
0 — 4.5 poor<br />
to fair<br />
The <strong>Word</strong><br />
reviews<br />
anonymously<br />
and pays for all<br />
meals
Food and Drink<br />
122 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
STREET SNACKER<br />
HCMC<br />
A Taste from the Past<br />
Pho, the closest <strong>Vietnam</strong> has to a national dish, is now mainly found in off-street<br />
eateries. But look carefully, and you may be able to find it in the location from where it<br />
came — the streets. <strong>Word</strong>s by Vi Pham. Photos by Sian Kavanagh<br />
Many people were dubious when I<br />
told them I was going in search<br />
of pho ganh, that is, pho sold from<br />
a cart. As the dish’s reputation<br />
has grown, it is more likely to be found in<br />
air-conditioned restaurants than from pots<br />
slung between two bamboo poles.<br />
Or perhaps the reason is that new trends<br />
in street food have made selling pho ganh a<br />
tough business, especially as its sellers get<br />
older, and Saigon’s unpredictable weather<br />
gets no better.<br />
But occasionally — it may be on Mac Dinh<br />
Chi or Nguyen Thai Hoc — you can find the<br />
survivors keeping this old tradition alive.<br />
Once upon a time<br />
In poorer times, bamboo poles were the<br />
way that pho was originally introduced to<br />
Saigon, as the sellers back then designed<br />
their carrying poles with specialised bamboo<br />
boxes to carry the whole ‘restaurant’ on their<br />
shoulder. Also, pho, as old as it is, did not<br />
start with a lot of adds-on in the bowl. Pho<br />
ganh’s sellers used to simplify the recipe by<br />
keeping only the main ingredients, using<br />
nothing but vegetables for the broth and<br />
making it easier to move around with less<br />
kitchen tools.<br />
This lowered the price of a bowl of pho<br />
and at that time, pho was affordable, tasty<br />
and nutritious, making it the best friend of<br />
blue-collar workers. Some vendors were<br />
strong enough to carry a small bench or<br />
some stools, but some did not even have<br />
these things, so customers had to eat pho<br />
standing up.<br />
One of the most successful pho places in<br />
Saigon that still remains popular among<br />
foodies communities is located on Mac Dinh<br />
Chi. The chef there is full of interesting stories.<br />
“My father started off selling pho on a cart<br />
with four wheels,” the chef says about Phon,<br />
the founder of the restaurant and also the<br />
man who adopted her. “Despite rolling the<br />
cart around every day without staying at<br />
any particular spot, his place used to have all<br />
kinds of customers, from office workers to<br />
American soldiers.”<br />
“My father says pho ganh and the pho cart<br />
faded away from Saigon streets because<br />
most sellers are not young any more to<br />
carry on such a business that depends too<br />
much on the weather,” says the chef while<br />
preparing me a bowl.<br />
And still going<br />
I was also lucky, on my motorbike one rainy<br />
night, when a pho ganh seller chose a spot on<br />
Nguyen Thai Hoc street to place her stall, right<br />
under a rusted roof of a closed mobile phone<br />
shop. I remember how the heat from the steam<br />
pot and the slices of chilli warmed me up.<br />
That night brought me the chance to<br />
experience something that most people<br />
thought had disappeared forever from the<br />
Saigon street. It might not be exactly the same<br />
as the first pho ganh or pho cart on Saigon’s<br />
streets, but I am sure the feeling of living in<br />
the old days could not get any better.<br />
If you are into this back-to-the-past adventure,<br />
check out the pho carts on Hong Bang, Q5 and<br />
down the alleys of Ngo Gia Tu, Q10. Also, if you<br />
are lucky, you might find one on the sidewalk<br />
opposite 39 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1<br />
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Travel<br />
TRAVEL<br />
INTERNATIONAL<br />
The Art and Architecture<br />
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of George Town<br />
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126 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
A former British-settled port town, George Town in Malaysia is known for its<br />
multicultural heritage and vibrant street food scene. Yet it has something else<br />
to attract the erstwhile traveller — architecture and art.<br />
<strong>Word</strong>s by Edward Dalton. Photos by Julie Vola and Edward Dalton<br />
There are not many places in the<br />
world which can compete with<br />
Penang on the street food scene.<br />
Regularly popping up in the top<br />
three of Best Street Food lists, Penang is<br />
already well known as a culinary capital<br />
of the world.<br />
This is why I’m not interested in Penang’s<br />
street food — I’m easily put off by hype, and<br />
generally find myself wanting to explore<br />
alternatives.<br />
Thankfully, Penang is more than just a<br />
few hawker centres selling hygienically<br />
questionable paper plates of noodles and<br />
satay. To borrow a cliché, it’s one of the great<br />
cultural melting pots, and the evidence for<br />
this extends far beyond dinner options.<br />
Focusing on the UNESCO World Heritage<br />
Site of George Town, I spent a few days<br />
ambling around the characterful streets,<br />
casting my amateur eye over the eclectic mix<br />
of Chinese, Indian, Malay and British Raj-era<br />
style architecture.<br />
More recently, colourful murals and<br />
informative sculptures can be found<br />
adorning the walls of many of George<br />
Town’s dilapidated houses and shops. My<br />
visit therefore doubled as a treasure hunt,<br />
creeping around corners with my camera to<br />
find the next trove of artistic expression.<br />
Once Upon a Time<br />
Prince of Wales Island, as Penang was<br />
temporarily named, was claimed by Captain<br />
Francis Light in 1786, upon which he<br />
founded the settlement of George Town in<br />
honour of his British king. However, prior<br />
to this British imperial adventure, centuries<br />
of cross-cultural assimilation had already<br />
helped mould Penang into one of the most<br />
diverse societies of its age.<br />
Centuries of intermingling by Malay,<br />
Chinese and Arab settlers, traders and<br />
immigrants led UNESCO to declare George<br />
Town as having “a unique architectural<br />
and cultural townscape without parallel<br />
anywhere in East and Southeast Asia.”<br />
There are Taoist temples in Little India,<br />
Hindu shrines in Chinatown, and towering<br />
skyscrapers looming over old British halls<br />
and fortifications. The centre of historic<br />
George Town is home to rows of Chinese<br />
shophouses, each one different from the<br />
next, but still somehow appearing uniform.<br />
Like Toy Houses<br />
The first thing that strikes many visitors<br />
to George Town is the colour. The Chinese<br />
shophouses, for example, look like layers<br />
of mismatched Lego bricks stacked side by<br />
side.<br />
This style of building was introduced<br />
throughout Southeast Asia by Chinese<br />
migrants in the 19th century. A single house<br />
Getting to George Town<br />
From Hanoi there are no direct flights to<br />
George Town in Penang. Transfers are<br />
available via Kuala Lumpur or Singapore.<br />
The airlines with the most flights and<br />
quickest transfers are Malaysia Airlines and<br />
AirAsia, and the quickest journey time is just<br />
over six hours.<br />
From Ho Chi Minh City, AirAsia have a<br />
direct flight four times a week with a total<br />
flight time of just under two hours.<br />
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“While not as ancient as the shophouses nor as culturally<br />
significant as the mosques or temples, [the paintings and sculptures]<br />
are an attraction in their own right”<br />
might have features in white, pink, green<br />
and yellow. The most customising seems to<br />
be the shutters on the windows, which can<br />
vary from neighbour to neighbour.<br />
Aside from the colour, there is also a<br />
great variety in the air vents which sit just<br />
above the downstairs windows. Some of<br />
them are no more elaborate than a simple<br />
rectangle, while others curve into shapes<br />
resembling bats or leaves. The most uniform<br />
feature shared by nearly all of these famed<br />
shophouses is the presence of a terracotta<br />
roof.<br />
The cross-cultural impact on architecture<br />
can best be seen in the heritage buildings<br />
built by Westerners, but blended with<br />
styles from Islamic, Malay, Chinese and<br />
Indian structural traditions. In their book,<br />
Architecture and Heritage Buildings in George<br />
Town Penang, Ahmad Sanusi Hassan and<br />
Shaiful Rizal Che Yahaya give examples of<br />
this blending of architectural styles.<br />
“Adjustments from Western, European<br />
architecture to local architecture such as<br />
the Malay traditional house are manifested<br />
with overhanging roof structures, maximum<br />
window openings, cantilever veranda and<br />
big roof construction,” they wrote.<br />
According to Hassan and Yahaya, the<br />
Chinese shophouse became dominant<br />
in George Town due to its practicality<br />
and suitability for small-scale family<br />
enterprise. The aesthetically pleasing<br />
friezes, columns and cornices which adorn<br />
the exteriors are a beautiful by-product<br />
which provoke dozens of photos from<br />
visitors to the town centre.<br />
Better Than Banksy<br />
After getting my fill of architecture, and<br />
Penang Quick Guide<br />
Penang is a state on the northwest<br />
coast Malaysia, comprising Penang<br />
Island and Seberang Perai on the<br />
mainland. George Town is the capital<br />
of Penang state, and is situated on the<br />
northeast coast of Penang Island.<br />
Famous for its street food, Penang<br />
has long been a destination popular<br />
with foodies, although is equally<br />
appealing to couples, families and<br />
backpackers, with a variety of boutique,<br />
budget or resort hotels.<br />
As a UNESCO World Heritage Site,<br />
the old centre of George Town enjoys<br />
a protected status, ensuring its richly<br />
diverse mix of cultural heritage survives<br />
untarnished by modern development.<br />
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130 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com<br />
“Penang is more than<br />
just a few hawker<br />
centres selling… paper<br />
plates of noodles and<br />
satay. To borrow a<br />
cliché, it’s one of the<br />
great cultural melting<br />
pots, and the evidence<br />
for this extends far<br />
beyond dinner options”
armed with a map and a decent pair of<br />
walking shoes, I went on a hunt for the<br />
paintings and sculptures littered around the<br />
city. While not as ancient as the shophouses<br />
nor as culturally significant as the mosques<br />
or temples, they are an attraction in their own<br />
right.<br />
In 2010, the inaugural George Town<br />
Festival was launched in honour of the<br />
town’s designation as a UNESCO World<br />
Heritage Site. Two years after the inaugural<br />
event, festival organisers invited Ernest<br />
Zacharevic, a young Lithuanian artist, to<br />
create a collection of murals depicting local<br />
culture.<br />
Some of his most famous murals are<br />
3D installations, such as the Children on a<br />
Bicycle and Boy on Motorcycle which include<br />
tangible props. My personal favourite was<br />
actually the first one I found, featuring 10<br />
giant cigarettes sticking out of the wall, with<br />
a child in a gas mask; a strong anti-pollution<br />
message.<br />
Zacharevic’s murals became popular<br />
so quickly that Penang’s street art scene<br />
exploded into life, with more contributors<br />
adding their work all the time. In 2013,<br />
various artists from the group Artists for<br />
Stray Animals created the 101 Lost Kittens<br />
project, painting multiple cat-themed murals<br />
around George Town, to heighten awareness<br />
of stray animals around the city.<br />
Local artists have jumped on the creative<br />
bandwagon, taking advantage of an<br />
audience of tourists delivered to their door<br />
in annually increasing numbers. One of the<br />
most impressive murals, The Awaiting Trishaw<br />
Paddler, was created by Desmond Yeo, and<br />
spans an enormous wall overlooking the Red<br />
Garden Food Paradise Car Park.<br />
The Marking George Town project,<br />
commissioned by the State Government of<br />
Penang, saw the addition of 52 wroughtiron<br />
caricatures peppered around the town.<br />
Each one features a scene with a caption,<br />
providing a bit of humour or trivia about the<br />
street or building it’s located at.<br />
Penang is one of those places that literally<br />
has everything. It’s a haven for foodies to<br />
fill their stomachs and Instagram accounts.<br />
It’s a paradise for culture vultures to stand<br />
with their heads cocked to one side, saying<br />
‘hmm…’ a lot. I’ve even heard from couples<br />
who chose Penang as their honeymoon<br />
destination, spending days on the beach and<br />
nights in the bars. Penang can be all things<br />
to all people, so why don’t you stop reading<br />
and book yourself a few days off to visit this<br />
fantastic little island in Malaysia; I promise<br />
you won’t regret it.<br />
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Travel<br />
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TRAVEL<br />
NATIONAL<br />
The Abandoned Valley<br />
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Set up in late 2015, Phong Nha has a new day trip for<br />
those not lucky enough to get on the tour to the<br />
largest cave in the world. It’s worth every penny.<br />
<strong>Word</strong>s and photos by Nick Ross<br />
Until a couple of years ago, the<br />
problem with heading to Phong<br />
Nha, the home to the largest cave<br />
in the world, was the lack of cave<br />
visiting options that were available. There<br />
were a couple of two-, one- or half-day<br />
alternatives to Son Doong — Phong Nha<br />
Cave, Dark Cave, Paradise Cave and Tu<br />
Lan — the two-day trip to the third-largest<br />
cave in the world, Hang En, and of course<br />
the visit to the monster cavern itself, a<br />
five-day tour that costs VND67.5 million.<br />
Yet places are so limited that getting on<br />
this trip is a lottery.<br />
Fortunately, with new caves opening up<br />
to the public, the travel industry has found<br />
a remedy. Caves such as Hang Va and Hang<br />
Tien can now be visited with local tour<br />
operator Oxalis, and other trekking-cumcaving<br />
options are on their way.<br />
A day trip that has received rave reviews<br />
is to the Abandoned Valley. Once an integral<br />
part of the Ho Chi Minh Trail, the supply<br />
line used to transport supplies and soldiers<br />
from north to south during the war, when<br />
the trail was paved in the early 2000s, this<br />
little section was left off the grid, leaving it to<br />
merge back into the jungle.<br />
The tour includes four hours’ worth of<br />
jungle trekking, a 300-metre foray into the<br />
front end of Dark Cave, a barbecue and<br />
then a swim into E Cave, one of the most<br />
accessible river caves in the area. Based<br />
on my own experience of visiting the<br />
Abandoned Valley, it’s one of the best tours<br />
around.<br />
No Pain<br />
I’ve now done four treks in the Phong<br />
Nha area and each time I ask myself the<br />
same question: Why am I paying to put<br />
myself through such pain? Described in<br />
the brochures as “challenging”, the trek in<br />
the Abandoned Valley requires descending<br />
and then at the end, ascending the side of<br />
a mountain, while the 300-metre excursion<br />
into Dark Cave sees you scrambling over<br />
razor-sharp rocks and through a murky<br />
underground river.<br />
It requires a reasonable level of fitness.<br />
Yet despite bring drenched in my own sweat<br />
(my body doesn’t do heat), it’s worth every<br />
laboured step, every moment of wondering<br />
how you are going to make it back to the<br />
top. As I discovered, it wasn’t just me who<br />
was having such thoughts.<br />
The game-changer here is the river cave.<br />
Normally groups of between eight and 10<br />
people reach the cave by 1pm, just in time<br />
for lunch. But we were in a group of 16 and<br />
the going was slow. When we arrived at<br />
the river cave, Hang E, just before 3pm, we<br />
were ravenous, hot and exhausted. Trekking<br />
during the middle of the day, even with the<br />
jungle for shade, is hot work.<br />
Yet the river is icy cold, and that plunge<br />
into its depths and then later the swim into<br />
the pitch-black cave is the perfect tonic for<br />
both the heat and exertion. There is a reason<br />
why marathon runners like to submerge<br />
themselves in an ice-cold bath after<br />
42.195km of pain — it cools the body and<br />
relaxes the muscles.<br />
I had been dreading the final ascent out of<br />
the valley, but after the ice-cold river I felt so<br />
refreshed that it was easy. Three years before<br />
I had tried a similar ascent at the end of a<br />
The Trip<br />
The Abandoned Valley tour is<br />
organised by JUNGLE BOSS and costs<br />
VND1,500,000 per person. The fee<br />
includes safety equipment, lunch, pick<br />
up and drop off at the hotel, snacks and<br />
water. Due to poison ivy along one part<br />
of the route, Jungle Boss recommends<br />
that trekkers wear long sleeves and long<br />
trousers. For more information click on<br />
junglebosshomestay.com or call (094)<br />
374 8041.<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 135
136 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
“The game-changer<br />
here is the river cave…<br />
The river is icy cold,<br />
and that plunge into its<br />
depths and then later<br />
the swim into the<br />
pitch-black cave is the<br />
perfect tonic for<br />
both the heat and<br />
exertion”<br />
Getting There<br />
Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park<br />
is located in Quang Binh, about four<br />
hours north of Hue. Regular daily flights<br />
with <strong>Vietnam</strong> Airlines, Jetstar Pacific and<br />
VietJet Air now serve the main provincial<br />
city, Dong Hoi, from both Hanoi and<br />
Ho Chi Minh City. Alternatively, you can<br />
take an overnight train from Hanoi or<br />
hop on the Open Tour bus from Ninh<br />
Binh or Hue. The cost of a taxi from the<br />
airport to Phong Nha is VND500,000.<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 137
“The tour includes four<br />
hours’ worth of jungle<br />
trekking, a 300-metre<br />
foray into the front<br />
end of Dark Cave,<br />
a barbecue and then<br />
a swim into E Cave,<br />
one of the most<br />
accessible river<br />
caves in the area”<br />
three-hour trek coming back from Hang En.<br />
My knee collapsed. Ashamed and broken,<br />
I crawled my way to the top. This time I<br />
finished the trip with energy to spare.<br />
On Our Doorstep<br />
People travel thousands of miles to<br />
experience the tropical lure of <strong>Vietnam</strong>,<br />
yet most who live here have never heard<br />
of Phong Nha, let alone been there. The<br />
experience — the jungle trekking, the caving,<br />
the swimming in crystal clear pools and<br />
rivers, the lure of rural <strong>Vietnam</strong> — is the<br />
ultimate tropical adventure that this country<br />
has to offer. Yet it is mostly the travellers<br />
who are taking advantage of it, not the<br />
expats or locals.<br />
Now that there are more cave and<br />
trekking options available in Phong Nha,<br />
the hope is that people will start swapping<br />
their urban jungles for the real thing. It’s<br />
something I try to do a couple of times a year<br />
and I wouldn’t trade it for the world.<br />
Accommodation<br />
Phong Nha has some beautiful<br />
countryside accommodation a few<br />
kilometers away from the main town. A<br />
couple of stand-outs are PHONG NHA<br />
FARMSTAY (see the article on page xxx)<br />
and THE PEPPER HOUSE (facebook.<br />
com/PepperHouseHomestay). Both are<br />
set in a rural environment to a backdrop<br />
of one of the most beautiful areas in<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>. Another well set-up option<br />
is the recently revamped CHAY LAP<br />
(chaylapfarmstay.com), now run by the<br />
travel company Oxalis. Chay Lap is the<br />
closest accommodation to the National<br />
Park. In town the options include EASY<br />
TIGER (easytigerhostel.com), a hostel<br />
catering mainly to the backpacker crowd<br />
and a number of homestays including<br />
HO KHANH’S HOMESTAY (phong-nhahomestay.com)<br />
and JUNGLE BOSS<br />
HOMESTAY (junglebosshomestay.com).<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 139
Travel<br />
DALAT<br />
ANA MANDARA VILLAS<br />
$$$$<br />
Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063)<br />
3555888<br />
anamandara-resort.com<br />
DALAT PALACE<br />
$$$$<br />
12 Ho Tung Mau, Dalat, Tel:<br />
(063) 382 5444<br />
dalatpalace.vn<br />
DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL<br />
172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel:<br />
(063) 382 7999<br />
dalatgreencityhotel.com<br />
Located in central Dalat,<br />
this is the perfect place for<br />
budget travellers. Quiet,<br />
newly refurbished with<br />
beautiful mountain and city<br />
views from the rooftop, features<br />
free Wi-Fi, a TV and<br />
snack bar in all rooms with<br />
a downstairs coffee shop<br />
and computers in the lobby<br />
for guest use.<br />
DALAT TRAIN VILLA<br />
Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat, Tel:<br />
(063) 381 6365<br />
dalattrainvilla.com<br />
Located near the Dalat Train<br />
Station, the Dalat Train Villa<br />
is a beautifully restored, colonial<br />
era, two-storey villa.<br />
In its grounds is a 1910<br />
train carriage which has<br />
been renovated into a bar<br />
and cafe. Located within 10<br />
minutes of most major attractions<br />
in Dalat.<br />
TRUNG CANG HOTEL<br />
$<br />
22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel:<br />
(063) 382 2663<br />
M M M<br />
HANOI –<br />
INTERNATIONAL<br />
CROWNE PLAZA WEST<br />
INTERNATIONAL<br />
$$$<br />
36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune,<br />
Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel:<br />
(04) 6270 6688<br />
crowneplazawesthanoi.com<br />
This premier five-star property<br />
lies beside the My<br />
Dinh National Stadium and<br />
Convention Centre. Boasts<br />
two swimming pools, a spa,<br />
and a fitness centre in its 24<br />
stories.<br />
DAEWOO HOTEL<br />
360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)<br />
3831 5555<br />
hanoi-daewoohotel.com<br />
This enormous structure<br />
offers the most modern of<br />
amenities, and with four<br />
restaurants and two bars,<br />
the events staff is well<br />
equipped to handle any occasion.<br />
Close to the National<br />
Convention Center, and a favourite<br />
of the business traveller,<br />
Daewoo even boasts<br />
an outdoor driving range.<br />
Shortly to become a Marriot<br />
property.<br />
FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI<br />
6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)<br />
3831 3333<br />
fortuna.vn<br />
This 350-room four-star set<br />
up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial<br />
district has a variety<br />
of rooms on offer, a “capital<br />
lounge” and three restaurants<br />
that serve Japanese,<br />
Chinese and international<br />
cuisine. And like you’d expect,<br />
there’s a fitness centre,<br />
night club and swimming<br />
pool, too, and even a separate<br />
spa and treatment facility<br />
for men and women. Set<br />
to the west of town, Fortuna<br />
often offers business deals<br />
on rooms and spaces to hold<br />
meetings, presentations and<br />
celebrations.<br />
HOTEL DE L’OPERA<br />
29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:<br />
(04) 6282 5555<br />
contact@hoteldelopera.com<br />
Resting just a step away<br />
from the Opera House, the<br />
hotel mixes colonial architectural<br />
accents and theatrical<br />
interior design to create<br />
a contemporary space. The<br />
first boutique five star in<br />
the heart of Hanoi, the lavish,<br />
uniquely designed 107<br />
rooms and suites contain<br />
all the mod cons and are<br />
complimented by two restaurants,<br />
a bar and complimentary<br />
Wi-Fi.<br />
HILTON GARDEN INN<br />
HANOI<br />
20 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan<br />
Kiem, Hanoi, Tel (04) 3944<br />
9396<br />
hanoi.hgi.com<br />
With 86 fully-equipped<br />
guestrooms and suites, this<br />
is the first Hilton Garden Inn<br />
property in Southeast Asia.<br />
Centrally located and a short<br />
stroll from the historic Old<br />
Quarter, the hotel offers a full<br />
service restaurant, a stylish<br />
bar, along with complimentary<br />
business and fitness<br />
centres making it perfect for<br />
the international business or<br />
leisure traveller.<br />
HILTON HANOI OPERA<br />
1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 0500<br />
hanoi.hilton.com<br />
Situated next to the iconic<br />
Hanoi Opera House and a<br />
short stroll from the Old<br />
Quarter, this five-star hotel is<br />
a Hanoi landmark. With 269<br />
fully-equipped rooms and<br />
suites, there’s plenty for the<br />
discerning business and leisure<br />
traveller to choose from.<br />
INTERCONTINENTAL<br />
HANOI WESTLAKE<br />
1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)<br />
6270 8888<br />
hanoi.intercontinental.com<br />
This stunning property built<br />
over West Lake falls in between<br />
a hotel and a resort.<br />
Beautiful views, great balcony<br />
areas, comfortable, topend<br />
accommodation and all<br />
the mod-cons make up the<br />
mix here together with the<br />
resort’s three in-house restaurants<br />
and the Sunset Bar,<br />
a watering hole located on a<br />
thoroughfare over the lake.<br />
Great gym and health club.<br />
JW MARRIOTT HANOI<br />
8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu<br />
Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833<br />
5588<br />
jwmarriotthanoi.com<br />
From the expressive architecture<br />
outside to the authentic<br />
signature JW Marriott services<br />
inside, this Marriott hotel<br />
in Hanoi is the new definition<br />
of contemporary luxury. Lies<br />
next door to the National<br />
Convention Centre.<br />
MAY DE VILLE OLD<br />
QUARTER<br />
43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 5688<br />
maydeville.com<br />
The largest four-star hotel<br />
in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, 110<br />
rooms, a swimming pool, a<br />
top floor terrace bar and a<br />
location just a stone’s throw<br />
from Hoan Kiem Lake make<br />
this a great choice for anyone<br />
wanting a bit of luxury in<br />
the heart of the action.<br />
MELIA HANOI<br />
44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan<br />
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343<br />
meliahanoi.com<br />
Excellently located in central<br />
Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws<br />
plenty of business travellers<br />
and is also a popular venue<br />
for conferences and wedding<br />
receptions. State-of-the-art<br />
rooms, elegant restaurants,<br />
stylish bars, fully equipped<br />
fitness centre with sophisticated<br />
service always make<br />
in-house guests satisfied.<br />
MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI<br />
83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan<br />
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800<br />
moevenpick-hanoi.com<br />
With its distinctive French<br />
architecture and top end<br />
service, Mövenpick Hotel<br />
Hanoi is aimed squarely at<br />
corporate travellers. An allday<br />
restaurant and a lounge<br />
bar are available to satiate<br />
their clientele while the kinetic<br />
gym and wellness studio<br />
offer an excellent range<br />
of equipment. Massage and<br />
sauna facilities are available<br />
for guests seeking to<br />
rejuvenate. Of the 154 wellappointed<br />
rooms and suites,<br />
93 are non-smoking.<br />
NOVOTEL SUITES<br />
5 Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04)<br />
3576 6666<br />
novotel.com/9813<br />
Suites and apartments with<br />
all the mod cons and attractive<br />
décor you’d expect of an<br />
Accor property. Located close<br />
to My Dinh and 20 minutes<br />
from downtown Hanoi, this<br />
new property with an inhouse<br />
restaurant and bar is<br />
perfect for business professionals<br />
or travellers looking<br />
to mix a stay in Hanoi with<br />
the feeling of being located<br />
in a place you can call home.<br />
PULLMAN HANOI HOTEL<br />
$$$$<br />
40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)<br />
3733 0688<br />
pullman-hanoi.com<br />
With deluxe rooms and<br />
suites, a contemporary lobby,<br />
an excellent buffet, and a<br />
la carte restaurant, this Accor<br />
group property is prestigious<br />
and close to the Old Quarter.<br />
SHERATON<br />
K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu,<br />
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000<br />
sheraton.com/hanoi<br />
Surrounded by lush gardens,<br />
sweeping lawns and<br />
tranquil courtyards, this<br />
peaceful property features<br />
picturesque views of West<br />
Lake and is less than 10<br />
minutes from downtown.<br />
In addition to the luxurious<br />
rooms, the hotel offers an<br />
outdoor swimming pool and<br />
great relaxation and fitness<br />
facilities, including a tennis<br />
court and spa. There are well<br />
equipped conference rooms<br />
and a newly refurbished Executive<br />
Club Lounge.<br />
SOFITEL LEGEND<br />
METROPOLE HANOI<br />
15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Tel: (04) 3826 6919<br />
sofitel.com<br />
The finest hotel of the French<br />
colonial period is probably<br />
still the finest in today’s Hanoi.<br />
Anyone who is (or was)<br />
anyone has stayed at this elegant<br />
oasis of charm, where<br />
the service is impeccable<br />
and the luxurious facilities<br />
complement the ambiance of<br />
a bygone era. Definitely the<br />
place to put the Comtessa up<br />
for a night.<br />
SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI<br />
1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh,<br />
Tel: (04) 3823 8888<br />
Boasting Hanoi’s best views<br />
of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake<br />
and the Red River, Sofitel<br />
Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys<br />
above the city skyline. The<br />
5-star hotel features 317<br />
luxurious, comfortable guestrooms<br />
with spectacular lake<br />
view or river view ranking in<br />
7 types from Classic Room to<br />
Imperial Suite.<br />
HANOI – MID-RANGE<br />
6 ON SIXTEEN<br />
16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem<br />
sixonsixteen.com<br />
Another boutique hotel to<br />
grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the<br />
six rooms here mix contemporary<br />
and fresh with handicrafts<br />
and antique. Breakfast<br />
is included and in the long,<br />
lounge restaurant on the<br />
second floor, home-style <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
fare is served up<br />
with fresh fruit juices and<br />
Lavazza coffee.<br />
GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE<br />
HOTEL<br />
$$$<br />
109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan<br />
Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928<br />
6969<br />
goldensilkhotel.com<br />
Located in the centre of the<br />
Old Quarter, this little slice of<br />
heaven offers complimentary<br />
sundries and a replenishable<br />
minibar. The Orient restaurant,<br />
serves the finest in international<br />
and <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
cuisine.<br />
JOSEPH’S HOTEL<br />
$$<br />
5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi,<br />
Tel: (04) 3938 1048<br />
josephshotel.com<br />
Located next to the cathedral,<br />
this popular wellappointed,<br />
airy and spacious<br />
boutique hotel mixes<br />
comfort with a nice ambience<br />
and great Western or<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese breakfasts. All<br />
the modern amenities at<br />
reasonable prices.<br />
MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA<br />
HOTEL<br />
$$$<br />
35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan<br />
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999<br />
hanovahotel.com<br />
A minute from Hoan Kiem<br />
Lake, this glowing pearl in<br />
the heart of Hanoi provides<br />
tranquility with an art gallery<br />
and piano bar.<br />
MAY DE VILLE<br />
24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung,<br />
Tel: (04) 2222 9988<br />
Set in the old French Quarter<br />
a short walk from the<br />
Opera House, May de Ville<br />
City Centre is a welcome<br />
new addition to the capital.<br />
Combining contemporary<br />
architecture with traditional<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese style and materials,<br />
this elegant property has<br />
81 well-appointed rooms including<br />
four suites.<br />
HANOI – BUDGET<br />
HANOI BACKPACKER’S<br />
HOSTEL<br />
48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Tel: (04) 3828 5372<br />
hanoibackpackershostel.com<br />
Probably the cheapest, European-style<br />
hostel in town,<br />
with bunk-style beds mixed<br />
or single-sex dorms starting<br />
at VND150,000, plus a couple<br />
of double suites from<br />
VND250,000. A place to meet<br />
like-minded fold in the Old<br />
Quarter.<br />
HCMC –<br />
INTERNATIONAL<br />
CARAVELLE HOTEL<br />
$$$$<br />
19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3823 4999<br />
caravellehotel.com<br />
Winner of Robb Report’s 2006<br />
140 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
list of the world’s top 100<br />
luxury hotels, the Caravelle<br />
houses the popular rooftop<br />
Saigon Saigon bar, and the<br />
restaurants Nineteen and<br />
Reflections.<br />
EQUATORIAL<br />
$$$<br />
242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel:<br />
(08) 3839 7777<br />
equatorial.com/hcm<br />
This massive property boasts<br />
seven dining and entertainment<br />
outlets, a business<br />
centre, meeting rooms and<br />
a comprehensive fitness centre<br />
and spa. The Equatorial<br />
also has an on-site casino.<br />
HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON<br />
$$$$$<br />
235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3925 7777<br />
hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn<br />
The five-star hotel and serviced<br />
apartment complex<br />
offers: 14 instant offices,<br />
seven meeting rooms, a<br />
600-capacity ballroom, spa,<br />
outdoor swimming pool, a<br />
gym, 24-hour fine dining,<br />
24-hours room service, and<br />
limousine services.<br />
INTERCONTINENTAL<br />
ASIANA SAIGON<br />
$$$$$<br />
Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan,<br />
Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999<br />
intercontinental.com/saigon<br />
In the heart of Ho Chi Minh<br />
City, resides the Asiana with<br />
signature dining options,<br />
an innovative cocktail bar,<br />
exclusive spa and health<br />
club, together with luxury<br />
boutique arcade.<br />
LE MÉRIDIEN SAIGON<br />
$$$$<br />
3C Ton Duc Thang, Q1, HCMC<br />
Tel: (08) 6263 6688<br />
lemeridien.com/saigon<br />
Marking the brand’s debut<br />
in <strong>Vietnam</strong>, Le Méridien Saigon<br />
is the gathering place<br />
for curious and creativeminded<br />
travellers. Located<br />
in the heart of Ho Chi Minh<br />
City next to the Saigon River,<br />
the property is close to the<br />
metropolis's entertainment<br />
and commercial areas, making<br />
it an ideal base for exploring<br />
the local culture and<br />
community. Experience this<br />
cosmopolitan city in stimulating<br />
surroundings.<br />
LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL<br />
SAIGON<br />
$$$$<br />
2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3823 3333<br />
legendsaigon.com<br />
Immaculate architecture,<br />
spacious rooms, and a fine<br />
selection of fine dining, with<br />
buffets specialising in Americana<br />
and Pan-Asian cuisine.<br />
NEW WORLD HOTEL<br />
$$$$<br />
76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822<br />
8888<br />
saigon.newworldhotels.com<br />
Former guests include U.S.<br />
presidents — two Bushes,<br />
Clinton — and K-Pop sensation<br />
Bi Rain. An ongoing<br />
event as well as a hotel,<br />
New World is one of the best<br />
luxury stops in town.<br />
PARK HYATT<br />
$$$$$<br />
2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3824 1234<br />
saigon.park.hyatt.com<br />
Fabulous in style, prime in<br />
location, everything one<br />
would expect from the Hyatt.<br />
The Square One and Italianthemed<br />
Opera restaurants<br />
have garnered an excellent<br />
reputation, as has the landscaped<br />
pool.<br />
PULLMAN SAIGON<br />
CENTRE<br />
$$$$$<br />
148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3838 8686<br />
pullmanhotels.com<br />
Recently completed on the<br />
site of the old Metropole, this<br />
upscale, contemporary property<br />
boasts 306 signature<br />
rooms combining design,<br />
comfort and connectivity.<br />
Innovative cuisine, a great<br />
downtown location and hightech<br />
meeting venues able to<br />
host up to 600 guests make<br />
up the mix.<br />
RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS<br />
53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel:<br />
(08) 3744 4111<br />
riverside-apartments.com<br />
Situated on the banks of the<br />
Saigon River, a 15-minute<br />
scenic boat ride or 20-minute<br />
bus ride from town,<br />
Riverside’s complementary<br />
shuttle services take you<br />
right in the city centre. With<br />
152 fully equipped serviced<br />
apartments, the property<br />
offers special packages for<br />
short-term stay starting at<br />
VND2.1 million per apartment<br />
per night for a onebedroom<br />
facility.<br />
RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE<br />
HOTEL SAIGON<br />
$$$$<br />
8-15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1,<br />
Tel: (08) 3823 1117<br />
renaissance-saigon.com<br />
This distinct French architectural<br />
wonder offers complimentary<br />
Wi-Fi, airport pickup<br />
or drop off, a first-floor ballroom,<br />
and authentic <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
cuisine at the River<br />
Restaurant.<br />
SILA URBAN LIVING<br />
21 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3,<br />
HCMC, Tel: (08) 3930 0800<br />
silaliving.com<br />
Stylish apart-hotel with 217<br />
apartments (from studios to<br />
one and two bedrooms) for<br />
short and long stays, close to<br />
the Reunification Palace on<br />
the edge of District 1. Facilities<br />
include a 24-hour reception,<br />
a 24-hour gym with a<br />
20-meter swimming pool,<br />
Jacuzzi, sauna and steam<br />
room. Western and Eastern<br />
specialties are served daily<br />
at Twenty-One restaurant<br />
and bar.<br />
SHERATON<br />
$$$$$<br />
88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3827 2828<br />
sheraton.com/saigon<br />
Sheraton boasts one of<br />
the best locations in town,<br />
with first–class facilities, an<br />
open–air restaurant 23 floors<br />
above the city and a live music<br />
venue on the same floor.<br />
SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA<br />
$$$$<br />
17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3824 1555<br />
sofitel.com<br />
This 20–story building in<br />
downtown Saigon, caters to<br />
upscale business and leisure<br />
travelers seeking a classic yet<br />
contemporary stay in Saigon.<br />
WINDSOR PLAZA<br />
$$$<br />
18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel:<br />
(08) 3833 6688<br />
windsorplazahotel.com<br />
The full ensemble with its<br />
own shopping hub (including<br />
a bank), fine dining,<br />
a sauna, health club, and<br />
superb panoramic views of<br />
the cityscape. Also hosts<br />
the largest Oktoberfest in<br />
the region.<br />
HCMC – DELUXE<br />
CONTINENTAL<br />
$$$<br />
132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3829 9201<br />
continentalhotel.com.vn<br />
This charming old hotel has<br />
been fêted in literature and<br />
in film. In the heart of Saigon,<br />
this is the first choice to<br />
highlight <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese culture.<br />
NORFOLK HOTEL<br />
$$$<br />
117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3829 5368<br />
norfolkhotel.com.vn<br />
Intimate atmosphere and excellent<br />
service, this boutique<br />
business hotel is located<br />
minutes from famous landmarks,<br />
designer shops, and<br />
is renowned for its fabulous<br />
steaks at its in-house restaurant,<br />
Corso.<br />
NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE<br />
$$$<br />
167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08)<br />
3822 4866<br />
novotel-saigon-centre.com<br />
Novotel Saigon Centre has<br />
a contemporary feel, an<br />
international buffet — The<br />
Square — a rooftop bar, and<br />
a wellness centre including a<br />
swimming pool, gym, sauna<br />
and spa.<br />
VILLA SONG SAIGON<br />
$$$<br />
197/2 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,<br />
Tel: (08) 3744 6090<br />
villasong.com<br />
Deliberately located away<br />
from the city centre in Thao<br />
Dien, this riverside boutique<br />
villa-style hotel is a sanctuary<br />
of peace and calm — a<br />
rarity in Ho Chi Minh City.<br />
Beautiful, Indochine-influenced<br />
design, a great setting<br />
and good drinking and<br />
dining options make this a<br />
great, non-city centre choice.<br />
STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL<br />
$$$<br />
144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu<br />
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888<br />
starcitysaigon.vn<br />
The newly-built hotel is near<br />
Tan Son Nhat International<br />
Airport. With spectacular<br />
city views and a comfortablydesigned<br />
outdoor swimming<br />
pool, there is little reason not<br />
to choose this shining star.<br />
HCMC - MID-RANGE<br />
ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON<br />
$$<br />
133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3822 5914<br />
kimdohotel.com<br />
LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2<br />
$$$<br />
46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan,<br />
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7926<br />
lanlanhotel.com.vn<br />
THE ALCOVE LIBRARY<br />
HOTEL<br />
$$$<br />
133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh,<br />
Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256 9966<br />
alcovehotel.com.vn<br />
HCMC – BUDGET<br />
DUC VUONG HOTEL<br />
$<br />
195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3920 6992<br />
ducvuonghotel.com<br />
Free Wi–Fi offered in every<br />
room. Low prices, friendly<br />
staff, clean rooms. This modern<br />
oasis is only a few steps<br />
from the backpacker’s area.<br />
DUNA HOTEL<br />
$<br />
167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3837 3699<br />
dunahotel.com<br />
HONG HOA HOTEL<br />
$<br />
185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1,<br />
Tel: (08) 3836 1915<br />
honghoavn.com<br />
SINH HUONG HOTEL<br />
$<br />
157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3827 4648<br />
sinhhuonghotel.com.vn<br />
M M M<br />
HOI AN & DANANG<br />
AN BANG BEACH RETREAT<br />
An Bang Beach, Hoi An<br />
anbangbeachretreat.com<br />
CUA DAI<br />
$<br />
544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel:<br />
(0510) 386 2231<br />
hotelcuadai-hoian.com/<br />
DANANG BEACH RESORT<br />
$$$<br />
Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh<br />
Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 396<br />
1800<br />
danangbeachresort.com.vn<br />
FURAMA RESORT AND<br />
SPA<br />
$$$$<br />
Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My,<br />
Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel:<br />
(0511) 384 7888<br />
furamavietnam.com<br />
PULLMAN DANANG BEACH<br />
RESORT<br />
$$$$<br />
Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu<br />
Hanh Son, Danang<br />
Tel: (0511) 395 8888<br />
pullman-danang.com<br />
Located on the stunning<br />
white sands of Bac My An<br />
Beach, the stylish Pullman<br />
Danang Beach Resort is<br />
an oasis of activities and<br />
facilities for the modern<br />
traveller. With an idyllic setting,<br />
this luxury property is<br />
perfect for a family holiday<br />
or romantic beach getaway.<br />
And with extensive function<br />
facilities, Pullman Danang<br />
also provides the a great location<br />
for your next incentive<br />
getaway or event.<br />
HYATT REGENCY DANANG<br />
RESORT AND SPA<br />
$$$$<br />
Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da<br />
Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234<br />
danang.regency.hyatt.com<br />
The Hyatt Regency Danang<br />
Joseph’s Hotel<br />
Foreign-run,boutique hotel<br />
Next to the cathedral<br />
Free wi-fi, international breakfast,<br />
spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV,<br />
multi-shower, friendly service<br />
www.josephshotel.com<br />
5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 141
Travel<br />
Resort and Spa is beachfront<br />
with a stunning view of the<br />
Marble Mountains. There<br />
are 182 luxurious residences<br />
and 27 private ocean villas,<br />
each with a private pool.<br />
MERCURE DANANG<br />
$$$<br />
Lot A1 Zone Green Island,<br />
Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau,<br />
Danang, Tel: (0511) 379 7777<br />
mercure-danang.com<br />
Set on the Han River, this<br />
well-appointed, Accormanaged<br />
property is one of<br />
the nicest hotels in Central<br />
Danang. Kitsch but contemporary<br />
design and some<br />
phenomenal views over<br />
the city make up the mix.<br />
THE NAM HAI<br />
$$$$<br />
Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village,<br />
Quang Nam, Tel: (0510)<br />
394 0000<br />
ghmhotels.com<br />
Includes three massive<br />
swimming pools, a gourmet<br />
restaurant and elegant<br />
spa on a lotus pond. Each<br />
massive room has its own<br />
espresso machine, pre–programmed<br />
iPod and both<br />
indoor and outdoor showers.<br />
M M M<br />
HUE & LANG CO<br />
ANGSANA LANG CO<br />
$$$$<br />
Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune,<br />
Phu Loc, Thua Thien<br />
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800<br />
angsana.com/en/lang_co<br />
Located on <strong>Vietnam</strong>’s South<br />
Central Coast, Angsana Lang<br />
Co commands an unrivalled<br />
beach frontage of the shimmering<br />
East Sea. Traditional<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese design encompasses<br />
the resort’s contemporary<br />
buildings and chic<br />
interiors.<br />
BANYAN TREE LANG CO<br />
$$$$<br />
Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune,<br />
Phu Loc, Thua Thien,<br />
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888<br />
banyantree.com/en/lang_co<br />
Built on a crescent bay, The<br />
Banyan Tree offers privacy<br />
and unparalleled exclusivity<br />
with all-pool villas reflecting<br />
the cultural and historical<br />
legacy of past <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
dynastic periods.<br />
LA RESIDENCE<br />
$$$$<br />
5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383<br />
7475<br />
la–residence–hue.com<br />
PHUONG HOANG HOTEL<br />
$<br />
66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382<br />
6736<br />
hoangphuonghotel.com<br />
M M M<br />
NHA TRANG<br />
EVASON ANA MANDARA<br />
AND SIX SENSES SPA<br />
$$$$<br />
Beachside Tran Phu, Nha<br />
Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058)<br />
352 2222<br />
sixsenses.com/evasonresorts/ana-mandara/destination<br />
2.6 hectares of private beachside<br />
gardens and villa–style<br />
accommodation furnished<br />
in traditional native woods,<br />
this resort offers verandah<br />
dining, a pool bar and the<br />
signature Six Senses Spa.<br />
JUNGLE BEACH RESORT<br />
$<br />
Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh<br />
Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384<br />
junglebeachvietnam.com<br />
On a secluded promontory<br />
north of Nha Trang, this<br />
budget place is all about<br />
hammocks, the sea, the<br />
jungle and nature.<br />
MIA RESORT NHA TRANG<br />
$$$$<br />
Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong,<br />
Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel:<br />
(058) 398 9666<br />
mianhatrang.com<br />
NOVOTEL NHA TRANG<br />
$$$<br />
50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel:<br />
(058) 625 6900<br />
novotel-nhatrang.com<br />
This four-star hotel with 154<br />
guestrooms, all with a terrace<br />
and sea view. Complete<br />
with a pool, spa, restaurant,<br />
bar and meeting room that<br />
caters for up to 200 delegates.<br />
SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY<br />
NINH VAN BAY<br />
$$$$<br />
Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa,<br />
Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372<br />
8222<br />
sixsenses.com/resorts/ninhvan-bay/destination<br />
The upmarket Tatler magazine<br />
voted top hotel of 2006.<br />
The location is stunning, on a<br />
bay accessible only by boat.<br />
SHERATON NHA TRANG<br />
HOTEL AND SPA<br />
$$$$<br />
26 – 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058)<br />
388 0000<br />
sheraton.com/nhatrang<br />
M M M<br />
PHAN THIET & MUI NE<br />
NINH CHU BAY BEACH<br />
CLUB & BAR<br />
Hwy 702, Ninh Hai, Phan<br />
Rang, Ninh Thuan, Tel: (068)<br />
627 2727<br />
ninhchubay.com<br />
Enjoy the private beach with<br />
excellent facilities and have a<br />
massage. Evenings are sublime<br />
at this beach club, soon<br />
to become a fully fledged<br />
resort. Grilled seafood, European<br />
sausages, sangria,<br />
draught beer, and specialityinfused<br />
vodka all make this<br />
one of a kind destination.<br />
BLUE OCEAN RESORT<br />
$$$$<br />
54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui<br />
Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062)<br />
384 7322<br />
blueoceanresort.com.vn<br />
life-resorts.com<br />
COCO BEACH<br />
$$$$<br />
58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui<br />
Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062)<br />
384 7111<br />
cocobeach.net<br />
With charming wooden bungalows,<br />
a private beach, a<br />
swimming pool (both with<br />
attached bars) and a French<br />
restaurant, Coco Beach continues<br />
to be run by those<br />
who opened it in 1995.<br />
JOE’S GARDEN RESORT<br />
$$<br />
86 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham<br />
Tien, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384<br />
7177<br />
joescafemuine.com<br />
A leafy, seafront bungalow<br />
resort and café with nightly<br />
live music all in one. Reminiscent<br />
of the type of places<br />
you’d find on the Thai islands,<br />
an international and<br />
Asian food menu together<br />
with a cheap happy hour<br />
on beer make up the relaxing<br />
mix.<br />
MIA RESORT MUI NE<br />
$$$$<br />
24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui<br />
Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440<br />
miamuine.com<br />
VICTORIA PHAN THIET RE-<br />
SORT AND SPA<br />
$$$$<br />
Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet,<br />
Tel: (062) 381 3000<br />
victoriahotels.asia<br />
Another beachfront Victoria<br />
chain, the thatched–roof<br />
bungalows and family villas<br />
are set in exotic gardens with<br />
an infinity swimming pool,<br />
a seafood restaurant, spa,<br />
beauty salon and jacuzzi.<br />
M M M<br />
PHONG NHA<br />
EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE<br />
BAR<br />
$<br />
Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang<br />
Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844<br />
easytigerphongnha@gmail.<br />
com<br />
A hostel and street-front bar<br />
all in one. Has a pleasant,<br />
airy atmosphere in the bar<br />
and restaurant area while<br />
the 52 dorm beds — four<br />
beds to a room — go for US$8<br />
(VND168,000) each a night.<br />
HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY<br />
$$<br />
Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang<br />
Binh, Tel: 01299 597182<br />
phong-nha-homestay.com<br />
PHONG NHA FARMSTAY<br />
$$<br />
Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach,<br />
Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367<br />
5135<br />
phong-nha-cave.com<br />
The first western-run farmstay<br />
in Phong Nha, this wellappointed<br />
travellers’ joint<br />
has a great bar and restaurant<br />
area, a swimming pool<br />
out back and views overlooking<br />
paddy fields and<br />
mountains. Rooms start at<br />
VND600,000 for a twin or<br />
double, with a family room<br />
for five costing VND1.4 million<br />
a night.<br />
M M M<br />
PHU QUOC<br />
BEACH CLUB RESORT<br />
$$<br />
Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To,<br />
Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island,<br />
Tel: (077) 398 0998<br />
beachclubvietnam.com<br />
A quaint and popular island<br />
guesthouse featuring a<br />
beachside restaurant, and includes<br />
free Wi-Fi. Motorbike<br />
rental, boat trips and tours<br />
are easily arranged. Discount<br />
rates during rainy season.<br />
MANGO BAY<br />
$$<br />
Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc,<br />
Tel: 0903 382207<br />
mangobayphuquoc.com<br />
An eco–friendly approach<br />
with a gorgeous beachside<br />
location, the bungalows are<br />
made of rammed earth, no<br />
TVs or telephones (although<br />
Wi-Fi is available). Excellent<br />
sunsets from the beach bar.<br />
SALINDA RESORT PHU<br />
QUOC ISLAND<br />
$$$$<br />
Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To<br />
Commune, Phu Quoc, Kien<br />
Giang<br />
Tel: (08) 3929 3097<br />
Hotline 0907 99 55 02<br />
salindaresort.com<br />
Set on the sea and only 4km<br />
away from Phu Quoc International<br />
Airport, Salinda is<br />
inspired by an interplay of<br />
rustic local heritage with<br />
PHOTO BY NICK ROSS<br />
142 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
contemporary design. The<br />
property has 121 rooms and<br />
villas with private balconies,<br />
and provides a luxury experience<br />
that embodies the<br />
understated beauty and enchanting<br />
spirit of the pearl<br />
of Asia.<br />
M M M<br />
SAPA<br />
CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL<br />
$$<br />
Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203<br />
871946<br />
catcathotel.com<br />
The best view in town from<br />
its bar restaurant, the Cat<br />
Cat Guesthouse is paradise<br />
at very reasonable rates. The<br />
rooms have big windows,<br />
balconies, and log fireplaces.<br />
TOPAS ECOLODGE<br />
$$$<br />
Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai<br />
Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales)<br />
topasecolodge.com<br />
With its panoramic views of<br />
the surrounding mountains<br />
and valley, Topas Ecolodge<br />
is the perfect place to experience<br />
the remoteness and<br />
quiet of the Northern <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
mountains — the<br />
landscape, the fresh air and<br />
the ethnic peoples. Guests<br />
stay in private bungalows<br />
with dinner served in a local<br />
stilt house restaurant.<br />
M M M<br />
VUNG TAU & HO TRAM<br />
BINH AN VILLAGE<br />
$$$$<br />
1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel:<br />
(064) 335 1553<br />
binhanvillage.com<br />
CON DAO RESORT<br />
$$<br />
Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao,<br />
Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 0939<br />
condaoresort.vn<br />
HO TRAM BEACH RESORT<br />
AND SPA<br />
$$$$<br />
Tel: (064) 378 1525<br />
hotramresort.com<br />
This attractive property is the<br />
ideal getaway from Ho Chi<br />
Minh City. 63 uniquely bungalows<br />
and villas promise a<br />
local experience complete<br />
with an excellent spa and<br />
two swimming pools.<br />
HO TRAM SANCTUARY<br />
$$$$<br />
Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau,<br />
Tel: (064) 378 1631<br />
sanctuary.com.vn<br />
The spacious villas come<br />
with their own pool and have<br />
direct access to the beach.<br />
Extras include tennis courts,<br />
a mini supermarket, and<br />
cycling and motorbike tours.<br />
REX HOTEL<br />
$$<br />
1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel:<br />
(064) 385 2135<br />
rexhotelvungtau.com<br />
SIX SENSES CON DAO<br />
$$$$<br />
Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung<br />
Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222<br />
sixsenses.com/sixsensescondao<br />
THE GRAND-HO TRAM<br />
STRIP<br />
Phuoc Thuan Commune,<br />
Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung Tau,<br />
Tel: (064) 378 8888<br />
thegrandhotramstrip.com<br />
The Grand-Ho Tram Strip is<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>’s first large scale<br />
integrated resort and includes<br />
a 541-room five-star<br />
hotel, a world-class casino,<br />
restaurants, high-tech meeting<br />
space, an exclusive VIP<br />
area, as well as a variety of<br />
beach-front recreation activities.<br />
Is located next to the<br />
Greg Norman-designed golf<br />
course, The Bluffs, one of the<br />
best golf courses in <strong>Vietnam</strong>.<br />
M M M<br />
TRAVEL<br />
SERVICES — HANOI<br />
BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY<br />
(BTA)<br />
94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist.,<br />
Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702<br />
buffalotours.com.vn<br />
A boutique Travel Agency at<br />
the service of all <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
and expatriate residents<br />
in <strong>Vietnam</strong> offering easy,<br />
hassle-free travel around<br />
the world and in <strong>Vietnam</strong>.<br />
BTA customizes leisure and<br />
corporate travel plans while<br />
offering a selected range of<br />
small group tours.<br />
EXO TRAVEL<br />
66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi,<br />
Tel: (04) 3828 2150<br />
exotravel.com<br />
A one-stop, all-in-one travel<br />
agency with an extensive<br />
operational track record in<br />
the Indochina region and<br />
beyond. Providing up-market<br />
services, Exotissimo brings<br />
their clients close to culture<br />
through personalised tours.<br />
Also find travel desks at the<br />
Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental<br />
hotels, which<br />
are open on weekends and<br />
holidays.<br />
HANDSPAN TRAVEL<br />
78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04)<br />
3926 2828<br />
handspan.com<br />
Established in 1997, Handspan<br />
provides customers<br />
with safe, high quality, diverse,<br />
small-group adventure<br />
tours to both popular and<br />
isolated locations in <strong>Vietnam</strong>,<br />
Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus<br />
on off-the-beaten-track<br />
sustainable and responsible<br />
tourism initiatives. Also provides<br />
to excursions to more<br />
well-worn destinations.<br />
HG TRAVEL<br />
47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan<br />
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844<br />
hgtravel.com<br />
Travel company specialising<br />
in small-group tours around<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong> and further afield in<br />
Indochina. Is also the sole<br />
representative agent for<br />
Kenya Airways (for 40 cities<br />
in Africa — kenya-airways.<br />
com), American Airlines (aa.<br />
com) and Turkish Airlines<br />
(thy.com).<br />
INTREPID TRAVEL VIET-<br />
NAM<br />
57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba<br />
Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308<br />
intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales<br />
Intrepid Travel <strong>Vietnam</strong> is an<br />
international travel company<br />
operating in <strong>Vietnam</strong> since<br />
1992, offering innovative day<br />
tours, short breaks and small<br />
group adventures. With expert<br />
guides and guaranteed<br />
departures, Intrepid focuses<br />
on real life experiences in Ho<br />
Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong<br />
Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and<br />
beyond to get you up close<br />
to <strong>Vietnam</strong>’s people, cuisine,<br />
history and culture.<br />
TRAVEL SENSE ASIA<br />
Suite 8, 2nd Floor, 103 Nguyen<br />
Truong To, Ba Dinh, Hanoi<br />
Tel: (04) 3715 3977<br />
kien@travelsense.asia<br />
A homegrown travel agency<br />
providing small group<br />
journeys and tailor-made<br />
holidays to <strong>Vietnam</strong>, Laos,<br />
Cambodia, Myanmar and<br />
Thailand. Voted in Trip Advisor’s<br />
Top 10 of best tours in<br />
Hanoi since 2010.<br />
TRAVEL<br />
SERVICES — HCMC<br />
BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY<br />
70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702;<br />
157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi Minh<br />
City, Tel: (08) 3827 9170<br />
buffalotours.com<br />
This premium travel agency<br />
helps travellers select their<br />
destinations and organise<br />
their trips. From corporate<br />
travel to small group tours,<br />
explore the world or <strong>Vietnam</strong>.<br />
EXO TRAVEL<br />
41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08)<br />
3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19<br />
exotravel.com<br />
A reliable and experienced<br />
travel company operating<br />
through Southeast Asia,<br />
Exotissimo brings you personalized<br />
tours across the<br />
region, many including insights<br />
into culinary customs,<br />
handicrafts and humanitarian<br />
initiatives.<br />
FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY<br />
121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3824 7744<br />
flightravelco.com<br />
Flight travel services, including<br />
global travel management,<br />
domestic and international air<br />
booking and travel insurance,<br />
to corporate companies, family<br />
and individual travelers.<br />
GRASSHOPPER<br />
ADVENTURES<br />
Tel: 0946 704095<br />
grasshopperadventures.com<br />
Escape the bustle with<br />
Southeast Asia’s top rated<br />
bike tour company. Run guided<br />
day tours to the Mekong<br />
Delta and Cu Chi Tunnels.<br />
Also organize longer, two<br />
to 14-day tours throughout<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>.<br />
TERRAVERDE<br />
12/20 Nguyen Canh Di, Ward<br />
4, Tan Binh District, Tel: (08)<br />
3984 4754<br />
terraverdetravel.com<br />
If you like cycling through<br />
the Mekong Delta, trekking<br />
in the highlands, or lazing in<br />
a junk on Ha Long Bay — all<br />
while making a difference in<br />
people’s lives — then this<br />
company will suit you well.<br />
VIETNAM VESPA<br />
ADVENTURE<br />
169A De Tham, Q1, Tel: 01222<br />
993585<br />
vietnamvespaadventure.com<br />
Vespa Adventure offers<br />
multi–day tours of southern<br />
and coastal <strong>Vietnam</strong> on the<br />
back of a luxury motorbike<br />
powered by clean, renewable<br />
biodiesel. English-speaking<br />
tour guides lead the way.<br />
TRAVEL SERVICES<br />
— ELSEWHERE<br />
BACK OF THE BIKE TOURS<br />
Tel: (08) 6298 5659<br />
backofthebiketours.com<br />
Offer motorbike tours combined<br />
with the finest street<br />
food to give customers a<br />
truly immersive <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
experience.<br />
BEENINASIA.COM<br />
beeninasia.com<br />
info@beeninasia.com<br />
Online travel in Southeast<br />
Asia. Offers you selection<br />
of best hotels and great<br />
tours. Create your own trip<br />
or we can tailor make your<br />
itinerary.<br />
TU TRAVEL<br />
60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City,<br />
Tel: 0713 752436<br />
tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.<br />
vn<br />
Want to set up non-standard<br />
tours in the Mekong with<br />
local guides who’ve got extensive<br />
local knowledge? This<br />
might be the place to contact.<br />
May 3 rd - Oct 31 st<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 143
Hanoi<br />
The Alchemist / The Therapist / Bar Stool / Coffee Cup / Medical Buff / A World of Good / Book Buff<br />
Photo by Julie vola<br />
144 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
Hanoi<br />
Essentials<br />
ALTERNATIVE HEALTH<br />
A-ROAMING<br />
BODYWORKER<br />
g karen@a-roamingbodyworker.com<br />
a-roamingbodyworker.com<br />
Provides various holistic<br />
healing modalities. Services<br />
include craniosacral therapy,<br />
deep tissue massage, prenatal<br />
massage, healing stones<br />
massage, as well as energy<br />
healing including Reiki and<br />
Jin Shin Jyutsu. Workshops<br />
are also available.<br />
HANOI HOLISTIC<br />
HEALTH GUIDE<br />
issuu.com/hanoiholistichealth<br />
A guide to various holistic<br />
health practitioners in Hanoi.<br />
Only available online, but a<br />
great information source.<br />
M M M<br />
BOOKSHOPS<br />
BOOKWORM<br />
BOOK SHOP<br />
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel:<br />
(04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi<br />
Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04)<br />
3829 2322<br />
Bookworm has been the cornerstone<br />
of Hanoi’s literary<br />
scene since 2001. It has been<br />
around the block quite a bit<br />
and now shares a space with<br />
Hanoi Cooking Centre. With<br />
over 15,000 new and secondhand<br />
fiction and nonfiction<br />
titles in stock, the shop also<br />
buys used books and offers<br />
free travel advice. Has a second<br />
shop in Tay Ho<br />
LIBRAIRIE FRANÇAISE<br />
DE HANOI<br />
FRENCH BOOKSHOP<br />
23/67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,<br />
Tel: (04) 3726 4896<br />
TRANG TIEN BOOKSTORE<br />
VIETNAMESE & ENGLISH BOOKS<br />
44 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:<br />
(04) 3936 2151<br />
XUNHASABA<br />
ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE<br />
32 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Tel: (04) 3825 4068<br />
M M M<br />
BUSINESS GROUPS<br />
AMCHAM<br />
4th Floor, InterContinental<br />
Hanoi,<br />
1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)<br />
3934 2790<br />
amchamhanoi.com<br />
AUSCHAM<br />
4th Floor, 100 Lo Duc, Hai<br />
Ba Trung<br />
Tel: 0909 710994<br />
auschamvn.org<br />
BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP<br />
VIETNAM (BBGV)<br />
193B Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung<br />
Tel: (04) 6674 0945<br />
bbgv.org<br />
The chamber of commerce<br />
for all things relating to the<br />
UK and British-born expats<br />
living in the capital. Puts on<br />
monthly networking events,<br />
gala dinners, fundraising<br />
events and much more.<br />
CCIFV<br />
Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh<br />
Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715<br />
2229<br />
ccifv.org<br />
EUROCHAM<br />
G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1<br />
Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel:<br />
(04) 3715 2228<br />
eurochamvn.org<br />
ICHAM<br />
Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1<br />
Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)<br />
3715 2229<br />
icham.org<br />
SINGAPORE BUSINESS<br />
ASSOCIATION VIETNAM<br />
Business Center Fortuna Hotel,<br />
6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh<br />
sbav-hanoi.org<br />
M M M<br />
CINEMAS<br />
CINEMATHEQUE<br />
ARTS CINEMA<br />
22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Tel: (04) 3936 2648<br />
Not a movie theatre per se,<br />
but a private film club that<br />
charges a membership fee<br />
in return for entrance to a<br />
wide selection of movies,<br />
new and old. The management<br />
has an eclectic taste<br />
and shows films and opera<br />
from all over the world. Call<br />
to arrange membership.<br />
M M M<br />
CLUBS & SOCIETIES<br />
AMERICAN CLUB<br />
EVENT SPACE<br />
21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Tel: (04) 3824 1850<br />
GOETHE INSTITUT<br />
GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE<br />
58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh<br />
Tel: (04) 3734 2251<br />
goethe.de/hanoi<br />
HANOI INTERNATIONAL<br />
THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS)<br />
THEATRE GROUP<br />
hitshanoi.com<br />
HANOI CLUB<br />
COUNTRY CLUB<br />
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)<br />
3823 8115<br />
thehanoiclub.com<br />
HANOI OIS<br />
NETBALL CLUB<br />
hanoinetball@gmail.com<br />
L’ESPACE<br />
FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE<br />
24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:<br />
(04) 3936 2164<br />
vphanoi-lespace.com<br />
M M M<br />
CLOTHING<br />
BOO SKATESHOP<br />
SKATESHOP<br />
84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel:<br />
(04) 3923 1147<br />
booskateshop.com<br />
CHULA<br />
43 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho; 24 Ly<br />
Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem<br />
Tel: 0904 258960<br />
chulafashion.com<br />
The work of Spanish couple<br />
Laura and Diego, this homegrown<br />
Hanoi brand describes<br />
themselves as creating wearable<br />
art. Designing pieces<br />
that are trendy, elegant,<br />
Western and yet distinctly<br />
Asian, their shop and arts<br />
space focuses on lifestyle,<br />
with regular events and<br />
more.<br />
CONTRABAND<br />
CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE<br />
23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Tel: (04) 3928 9891<br />
Launched in Hanoi in 2007,<br />
Contraband targets young<br />
hip working women. Garments<br />
are made from versatile<br />
fabrics that are comfortable<br />
to wear and easy to look<br />
after – making them ideal for<br />
work and travel. New styles<br />
are introduced each month<br />
with limited production runs,<br />
offering a sense of exclusivity.<br />
GEORGE’S FASHION BOU-<br />
TIQUE<br />
CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE<br />
36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel:<br />
(04) 3718 6233<br />
With new styles arriving in<br />
store every second day, this<br />
shop offers a huge range of<br />
dresses, shirts, pants, skirts<br />
and accessories in local and<br />
imported fabrics. Clothes fit<br />
all sizes, from petite to average<br />
to the generous figure.<br />
Alterations and a made-tomeasure<br />
service are available<br />
at no extra cost.<br />
L’ATELIER<br />
WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES<br />
33 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:<br />
(04) 3718 6758<br />
ateliervietnam.com<br />
Stocks women’s wear, leather<br />
bags, shoes and handicrafts.<br />
This chic boutique offers<br />
both ready-to-wear and<br />
made-to-fit clothing.<br />
THINGS OF SUBSTANCE<br />
AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX<br />
5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel:<br />
(04) 3828 6965<br />
This shop’s motto “Western<br />
sizes, <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese prices”,<br />
says it all. While mostly retailing<br />
women’s separates<br />
in soft cotton jersey and<br />
linen, the store also carries<br />
a range of accessories<br />
like embroidered canvas<br />
totes and printed tees. Has<br />
a good selection of unique<br />
men’s shirts.<br />
THREE TREES<br />
JEWELLERY<br />
15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel:<br />
(04) 3928 8725<br />
M M M<br />
COOKING CLASSES<br />
HANOI COOKING CENTRE<br />
COOKING CENTRE<br />
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel:<br />
(04) 3715 0088<br />
hanoicookingcentre.com<br />
Hanoi Cooking Centre is a<br />
school, retail outlet and café,<br />
where you can find classes<br />
on not just <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
cooking, but international<br />
cuisine, held in a beautiful<br />
setting. They also offer culinary<br />
tours.<br />
HIDDEN HANOI<br />
COOKING CENTRE<br />
147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel:<br />
0912 254045<br />
hiddenhanoi.com.vn<br />
A wide range of <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
culinary classes are offered<br />
in these well-appointed and<br />
clean facilities. The knowledgeable<br />
staff will guide<br />
you through the secrets of<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese cooking in an<br />
open air courtyard.<br />
M M M<br />
CRAFTS & FURNITURE<br />
BETTERWORLD<br />
GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS<br />
8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho<br />
Fair trade or bought directly<br />
from the artisans who made<br />
them, Betterworld stocks<br />
unusual handicrafts from<br />
around the world as well as<br />
second-hand books, DVDs<br />
and more.<br />
MEKONG QUILTS<br />
HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS<br />
9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:<br />
(04) 3926 4831; 58 Hang<br />
Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)<br />
3824 4607; 13 Hang Bac, Hoan<br />
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4831<br />
Mekong-quilts.org<br />
Community development<br />
non-profit quilt shop featuring<br />
handmade quilts and<br />
accessories. Styles vary from<br />
traditional to patterned and<br />
Asian-inspired. Founded in<br />
2001 and with outposts in<br />
AIRLINES<br />
AIR ASIA<br />
airasia.com<br />
AIR FRANCE<br />
airfrance.com.vn<br />
CATHAY PACIFIC<br />
cathaypacific.com/vn<br />
CHINA AIRLINES<br />
china-airlines.com<br />
JAPAN AIRLINES<br />
vn.jal.com<br />
JETSTAR PACIFIC<br />
jetstar.com/vn/en<br />
KOREAN AIR<br />
koreanair.com<br />
LAO AIRLINES<br />
laoairlines.com<br />
MALAYSIA<br />
AIRLINES<br />
malaysiaairlines.com<br />
SINGAPORE<br />
AIRLINES<br />
singaporeair.com<br />
THAI AIRWAYS<br />
thaiairways.com.vn<br />
TIGER AIRWAYS<br />
tigerair.com<br />
VIETJETAIR<br />
vietjetair.com<br />
VIETNAM<br />
AIRLINES<br />
vietnamairlines.com
Hanoi<br />
Essentials<br />
several locations around<br />
the region, the shop employs<br />
women in rural areas,<br />
enabling them to make an<br />
income and care for their<br />
families.<br />
CYCLING<br />
DON’S TAY HO<br />
BICYCLE RENTALS<br />
16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)<br />
3719 3719<br />
Dons-bistro.com<br />
GREEN BIKE<br />
CANNONDALE & JETT STOCKIST<br />
15 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh<br />
IBIKE<br />
SALES<br />
34 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho; 53 Ly<br />
Nam De, Hoan Kiem<br />
QUAN’S RENTALS<br />
BICYCLE / MOTORBIKE RENTALS<br />
70 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel:<br />
0904 244941<br />
THBC (THE HANOI BICYCLE<br />
COLLECTIVE)<br />
RENTALS & SALES<br />
29 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho, Tel:<br />
(04) 3718 3156<br />
thbc.vn<br />
DENTAL CARE<br />
AUSTRALIAN<br />
DENTAL CLINIC<br />
DENTAL CLINIC<br />
3 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung,<br />
Tel: 0906 200434<br />
australiandentalclinic.com<br />
PEACE DENTAL CLINIC<br />
DENTAL CLINIC<br />
2nd floor, 51A Nguyen Khac<br />
Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715<br />
2286<br />
peacedentalclinic.wordpress.<br />
com<br />
SERENITY INTERNATIONAL<br />
DENTAL CLINIC<br />
DENTAL CLINIC<br />
19 Nguyen Truong To, Ba<br />
Dinh, Tel: 0989 067888<br />
serenitydentalclinic.com<br />
WESTCOAST INTERNA-<br />
TIONAL DENTAL CLINIC<br />
DENTAL CLINIC<br />
2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51<br />
Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)<br />
3710 0555<br />
westcoastinternational.com<br />
The Westcoast International<br />
Dental Clinic is composed<br />
of dental professionals who<br />
deliver modern, high-level<br />
dental services throughout<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>. The clinic provides<br />
the highest quality technology,<br />
comfort and after-service<br />
care to patients.<br />
GALLERIES<br />
ART VIETNAM GALLERY<br />
GALLERY & EXHIBITION SPACE<br />
24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Tel: (04) 3928 5190<br />
artvietnamgallery.com<br />
Established in 2002, this<br />
American-run gallery has<br />
championed <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
contemporary art for more<br />
than two decades. Holds<br />
regular exhibitions and artist<br />
talks.<br />
MANZI<br />
GALLERY & BAR / CAFE<br />
14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel:<br />
(04) 3716 3397<br />
facebook.com/manzihanoi<br />
Founded in 2012, this independent<br />
contemporary art<br />
centre holds regular exhibitions,<br />
workshops and a wide<br />
range of art events. Manzi<br />
promotes emerging artists<br />
while presenting established<br />
artists from <strong>Vietnam</strong>.<br />
The space also sells works<br />
by leading contemporary<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese artists at affordable<br />
prices.<br />
NHA SAN COLLECTIVE<br />
GALLERY & ARTS PROJECTS<br />
24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Tel: 0985 870316<br />
nhasanstudio.org<br />
The first experimental art<br />
space in Hanoi, the non-profit,<br />
artist-led space has given<br />
contemporary <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
artists the chance to nurture<br />
their talent and experiment.<br />
Holds regular exhibitions and<br />
artist residences.<br />
VIETNAM ARTS MUSEUM<br />
NATIONAL ARTS MUSEUM<br />
66 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh,<br />
Tel: (04) 3733 2131<br />
vnfam.vn<br />
Maintains and promotes<br />
the treasures of <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
cultural and artistic heritage,<br />
allowing visitors to appreciate<br />
and understand the<br />
entire history of <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
fine arts.<br />
WORK ROOM FOUR<br />
ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY<br />
Packexim Building Tower 1,<br />
23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15, An<br />
Duong Vuong, Tay Ho<br />
workroomfour.com<br />
A place to work. A space to<br />
create. Somewhere to see<br />
something new. Work Room<br />
Four is pulling together the<br />
threads of creative endeavours<br />
across Hanoi. A collective<br />
that promotes collaboration<br />
and new ideas,<br />
exhibitions, workshops, artist<br />
studios, courses, contacts<br />
and events.<br />
GROCERIES & LIQUOR<br />
ANNAM GOURMET<br />
GROCERIES / DELI<br />
First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay<br />
Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4487<br />
DA LOC<br />
WINE RETAILER<br />
96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le<br />
Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)<br />
3941 2789<br />
Daloc.vn<br />
LINHMART<br />
116, D4 Dormitory, Giang Vo,<br />
Ba Dinh (near Ha Noi Hotel)<br />
Tel: 0936 491136 or 0916<br />
504548<br />
linhmart.com<br />
Stocks organic vegetables<br />
from Sapa, Soc Son and Dalat;<br />
seafood from Hai Phong<br />
and Quang Ninh; Norwegian<br />
salmon and highlands pork<br />
and beef. Also offers foreign<br />
spices and convenience<br />
store products from Japan<br />
and Thailand. Free delivery<br />
for any purchase above<br />
VND400,000.<br />
HANOI GOURMET<br />
DELI / WINE SHOP<br />
6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel:<br />
(04) 3943 1009<br />
Hanoigourmet.com<br />
KITCHEN ART<br />
KITCHENWARE<br />
38 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)<br />
6680 2770<br />
kitchenart.vn<br />
L'S PLACE<br />
GROCERY SHOP<br />
3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)<br />
3719 9911<br />
NATURALLY VIETNAM<br />
ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS<br />
4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc<br />
Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674<br />
4130<br />
naturallyvietnam.com<br />
RED APRON<br />
WINE RETAILER<br />
10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04)<br />
3943 7226; 28 Xuan Dieu, Tay<br />
Ho. Tel: (04) 3719 8337<br />
THE OASIS<br />
ITALIAN DELI<br />
24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:<br />
(04) 3719 1196<br />
WESTERN CANNED FOODS<br />
GROCERY STORE<br />
17 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Tel: (04) 3934 3854<br />
VEGGIE’S<br />
GROCERIES, FRUIT & VEG<br />
99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:<br />
(04) 3719 4630<br />
THE WAREHOUSE<br />
WINE RETAILER<br />
59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Tel: (04) 3928 7666; 27 Xuan<br />
Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718<br />
3701<br />
warehouse-asia.com<br />
M M M<br />
HAIRDRESSERS<br />
& SALONS<br />
DINH HAIR SALON<br />
HAIR SALON<br />
2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987<br />
718899<br />
HAIR STREAM<br />
UNISEX HAIR & NAIL SALON<br />
162A Hoang Hoa Tham, Tay<br />
Ho, Tel: (04) 3847 3366<br />
JUST.IN.M<br />
WOMEN’S HAIRDRESSER<br />
48A Ly Thuong Kiet , Hoan<br />
Kiem, Tel: 04 3939 3907<br />
LAN SALON<br />
TOP-END SALON<br />
Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien,<br />
Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3266 8190<br />
HOSPITALS<br />
& MEDICAL CLINICS<br />
AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC<br />
CLINIC (ACC)<br />
CHIROPRACTORS & PHYSIOTHERA-<br />
PISTS<br />
44 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung,<br />
Tel: (4) 3265 6888<br />
acc.vn/en<br />
ACC provides effective chiropractic,<br />
physiotherapy<br />
and foot care treatments<br />
through the use of cutting<br />
edge technology for back,<br />
neck and knee pain, sports<br />
injuries as well as all types of<br />
foot related problems.<br />
BUMRUNGRAD<br />
INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL<br />
HANOI OFFICE OF BANGKOK<br />
HOSPITAL<br />
136G Tran Vu, Ba Dinh, Tel:<br />
(04) 3715 3717<br />
bumrungrad.vn<br />
JAPAN INTERNATIONAL<br />
EYE HOSPITAL (JIEH)<br />
INTERNATIONAL EYE HOSPITAL<br />
32 Pho Duc Chinh, Ba Dinh, Hanoi,<br />
Tel: (04) 3715 3666<br />
jieh.vn<br />
JIEH is a 100% Japaneseinvested<br />
eye hospital. Using<br />
the latest technology and<br />
built according to Japanese<br />
standards, the facility is the<br />
first in <strong>Vietnam</strong> to use Mel<br />
90 (Carl Zeiss - Germany),<br />
and is one of first three eye<br />
hospitals in the country<br />
using Visumax (Carl Zeiss<br />
- Germany) for refractive<br />
surgery. Top-end customer<br />
service and a friendly, contemporary<br />
environment add<br />
to the mix.<br />
FAMILY MEDICAL<br />
PRACTICE<br />
MEDICAL<br />
298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel:<br />
(04) 3843 0748<br />
vietnammedicalpractice.com<br />
On the little street directly<br />
below Kim Ma, with all sorts<br />
of specialists including OB/<br />
GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A<br />
Medium-sized practice with<br />
both <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese and international<br />
doctors, but they are<br />
SHOPPING<br />
MALLS<br />
GARDEN<br />
SHOPPING<br />
CENTER<br />
The Manor,<br />
Me Tri Street,<br />
My Dinh, Tu Liem<br />
Tel: (04) 3787 5500<br />
INDOCHINA<br />
PLAZA<br />
241 Xuan Thuy,<br />
Cau Giay, Hanoi,<br />
Tel: 1900 555596<br />
LOTTE CENTER<br />
54 Lieu Giai, Ba Dinh,<br />
Tel: (04) 3333 6016<br />
lottecenter.com.vn<br />
PARKSON<br />
Viet Tower Plaza,<br />
198 Tay Son, Dong Da<br />
Tel: (04) 3537 8666<br />
parkson.com.vn<br />
PICO MALL<br />
229 Tay Son, Dong Da,<br />
Tel: (04) 6682 0400<br />
SYRENA<br />
SHOPPING<br />
CENTER<br />
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,<br />
Tel: (04) 3719 7214<br />
TRANG TIEN<br />
PLAZA<br />
cnr. Hang Bai and<br />
Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Hanoi<br />
trangtienplaza.vn<br />
VINCOM<br />
CITY TOWERS<br />
191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba<br />
Trung, Tel: (04) 3974<br />
9999<br />
VINCOM<br />
ROYAL CITY<br />
72A Nguyen Trai,<br />
Thanh Xuan, Tel: (04)<br />
3974 3550<br />
146 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
used to treating expats. Also<br />
a 24-hour emergency service.<br />
FRENCH HOSPITAL<br />
INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL<br />
1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel:<br />
(04) 3577 1100<br />
hfh.com.vn<br />
HONG NGOC HOSPITAL<br />
PRIVATE GENERAL HOSPITAL<br />
55 Yen Ninh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)<br />
3927 5568; Keangnam Office<br />
Tower, Khu B1 Pham Hung,<br />
Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 7305 8880<br />
hongngochospital.vn<br />
INTERNATIONAL SOS<br />
24-HOUR CLINIC<br />
MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC<br />
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:<br />
(04) 3934 0666<br />
Internationalsos.com<br />
Well-known medical clinic<br />
also known for its quality<br />
emergency services. Doctors<br />
and consultants also provide<br />
a range of services from<br />
standard GP-style check-ups<br />
through to vaccinations, paediatrics<br />
and specialist care.<br />
VIETNAM-KOREA FRIEND-<br />
SHIP CLINIC<br />
KOREAN CLINIC & HOSPITAL<br />
12 Chu Van An, Ba Dinh, Tel:<br />
(04) 3843 7231<br />
VINMEC INTERNATIONAL<br />
HOSPITAL<br />
INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL<br />
458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung,<br />
Tel: (04) 3974 3556<br />
vinmec.com<br />
INSURANCE<br />
IF CONSULTING<br />
CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel Plaza,<br />
1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh,<br />
Tel: (04) 3936 5370<br />
insuranceinasia.com<br />
LIBERTY INSURANCE<br />
16th Floor, Hoa Binh International<br />
Towers, 106 Hoang<br />
Quoc Viet, Cau Giay<br />
Tel: (04) 3755 7111<br />
libertyinsurance.com.vn<br />
REGENCY INTERNATIONAL<br />
INSURANCE<br />
5th Floor, Press Club, 59A Ly<br />
Thai To, Hoan Kiem<br />
Tel: 0966 857 488<br />
M M M<br />
INTERNATIONAL<br />
SCHOOLS<br />
BRITISH INTERNATIONAL<br />
SCHOOL, HANOI<br />
Hoa Lan Road, Vinhomes<br />
Riverside, Long Bien, Tel: (04)<br />
3946 0435<br />
bishanoi.com<br />
A selective, independent,<br />
co-educational day school.<br />
Provides a British-style<br />
education following the<br />
National Curriculum for England,<br />
with students taking<br />
IGCSE and A Level. Pending<br />
authorization, will offer the<br />
IB programme from <strong>2016</strong><br />
onwards.<br />
CONCORDIA INTERNA-<br />
TIONAL SCHOOL HANOI<br />
CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau<br />
Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878<br />
concordiahanoi.org<br />
A non-profit entity, Concordia<br />
has highly performing<br />
schools in both Hong Kong<br />
and Shanghai at the top tier<br />
of the educational system.<br />
All instructors and teachers<br />
are native English speakers<br />
and admission applications<br />
are accepted throughout<br />
the year.<br />
HANOI INTERNATIONAL<br />
SCHOOL<br />
48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh, Tel:<br />
(04) 3832 8140<br />
hisvietnam.com<br />
With schooling available<br />
for students studying at<br />
elementary through to secondary<br />
levels of education,<br />
HIS is one of the few private,<br />
international education options<br />
in the capital. Offers<br />
Cambridge IGCSE and IB<br />
Diploma for students at the<br />
secondary level.<br />
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL<br />
OF VIETNAM<br />
6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai<br />
Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong,<br />
Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183<br />
isvietnam.org<br />
A not-for-profit, pre-kindergarten<br />
to Grade 12 school<br />
serving the international<br />
and local community of Hanoi.<br />
ISV accepts students of<br />
any nationality aged 3 and<br />
up. Highly qualified and<br />
experienced international<br />
educators are supported by<br />
a 21st-century campus with<br />
the latest in educational<br />
technology plus excellent<br />
resources for learning. Class<br />
sizes are small.<br />
KINDERWORLD INTERNA-<br />
TIONAL KINDERGARTEN<br />
Unit 9 – 10, Shophouse CT17,<br />
Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel (04) 3743<br />
0306; 3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba<br />
Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel (04)<br />
3934 7243; C5 – C11, 1st floor,<br />
The Manor Building, My Dinh,<br />
Tu Liem, Tel (04) 3764 0209<br />
kinderworld.net<br />
Classes are kept small with<br />
a foreign teacher leading the<br />
class with the assistance of a<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese teacher according<br />
to the teacher-student<br />
ratio. KinderWorld provides<br />
pre school education for<br />
children from 18 months to<br />
below 6 years.<br />
QSI INTERNATIONAL<br />
SCHOOL OF HANOI<br />
#17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay<br />
Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418<br />
hanoi.qsi.org<br />
QSI International School of<br />
Hanoi is next in a long line<br />
of ‘quality schools’ established<br />
by the Quality Schools<br />
International. The institution<br />
specialises in instructing preschool<br />
and lower elementary<br />
age students.<br />
SINGAPORE INTERNATION-<br />
AL SCHOOL<br />
2D Van Phuc Diplomatic<br />
Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba<br />
Dinh, Tel (04) 3726 1601;<br />
Block C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho,<br />
Tel (04) 3758 2664; Road 2,<br />
Gamuda Gardens, Km 4.4<br />
Phap Van, Hoang Mai, Tel<br />
(04) 6666 1818<br />
kinderworld.net/sis<br />
Provides an international<br />
education for students from<br />
primary up to university level.<br />
A strong curriculum provides<br />
core subjects from the<br />
Singaporean and <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
curricula, as well as specialist<br />
programmes from Britain,<br />
America and Canada, all<br />
taught by qualified teachers.<br />
ST. PAUL AMERICAN<br />
SCHOOL HANOI<br />
Khu Do Thi Bac AnKhanh,<br />
An Khanh, HoaiDuc, Tel: (04)<br />
3399 6464<br />
stpaulhanoi.com.vn<br />
St. Paul Hanoi has developed<br />
a strong reputation<br />
for providing a high quality<br />
American education. An<br />
international school that<br />
collaborates with schools<br />
around the globe to set high<br />
expectations and align with<br />
rigorous standards so that<br />
students will have a wonderful<br />
opportunity to attend a<br />
great university in the future.<br />
UNITED NATIONS INTER-<br />
NATIONAL SCHOOL (UNIS)<br />
G9 Ciputra, Lac Long Quan,<br />
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 1551<br />
unishanoi.org<br />
Established in 1988, 1,050<br />
students from 60 nationalities<br />
follow the IB<br />
programme from aged 3<br />
through to aged 18. A notfor-profit<br />
entity, UNIS aims<br />
for its students to emerge as<br />
responsible stewards of our<br />
global society and natural<br />
environment.<br />
MOTORBIKE RENTAL<br />
& REPAIRS<br />
ANH DUNG<br />
MOTORBIKE RENTALS<br />
37 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:<br />
0915 066096<br />
MR CAO<br />
MOTORBIKE RENTAL<br />
MOTORBIKE RENTALS<br />
106 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Tel: 0912 094464<br />
PHUNG MOTORBIKE<br />
MOTORBIKE RENTALS<br />
13 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Tel: (04) 3938 1105<br />
VIP BIKES SOCIAL<br />
ENTERPRISE<br />
RENTALS & REPAIRS<br />
17 Ve Ho, Xuan La, Tay Ho,<br />
Tel: 0914 931390<br />
Trains disadvantaged youth<br />
to be fully qualified, Australian-certified<br />
motorbike<br />
mechanics. Does sales, restoration,<br />
repairs and rentals.<br />
M M M<br />
PROPERTY RENTALS<br />
FAIR REAL ESTATE<br />
RENTALS<br />
6 Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)<br />
3718 6332<br />
fair-realestate.com<br />
GIA LONG HOUSING<br />
RENTALS<br />
R714, Blg CT13B Ciputra, Tay<br />
Ho, Tel: (04) 3743 0589<br />
gialonghousing.com<br />
HANOI RENTING<br />
RENTALS<br />
No. 809, Ct13b building, Lac<br />
Long Quan, Tay Ho<br />
Tel: (04) 6294 4828<br />
hanoirenting.com<br />
LANLINH PROPERTY<br />
RENTALS<br />
38 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Tel: Tel: 0933 534999<br />
houseinhanoi.com<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 147
THE ALCHEMIST<br />
A TALE OF TWO GARDENS<br />
BY KAREN GAY<br />
A<br />
trip home to Canada this<br />
summer put me squarely in<br />
the midst of the Pokémon<br />
Go phenomenon. This wildly<br />
popular mobile game has its players<br />
chasing digital characters in ‘augmented<br />
reality’ — real world environments<br />
augmented by computer-generated<br />
effects.<br />
The normally peaceful and tranquil<br />
English Garden of my hometown was<br />
teeming with Pokémon Go “trainers.”<br />
The Garden, described as a horticultural<br />
attraction and floral sightseeing<br />
destination, has since attracted a wider<br />
range of visitors with the Pokémon craze.<br />
Off the Grid<br />
In a less crowded garden, I encountered<br />
a neighbour who informed me that my<br />
former elementary school cultivated the<br />
community garden in which we stood.<br />
He and his young daughter strolled<br />
through the plots naming the assorted<br />
vegetables. They were interacting much<br />
more with their surroundings than the<br />
Pokémon enthusiasts at the English<br />
Garden.<br />
When I commended my neighbour on<br />
his knowledge of the plants, he replied<br />
that he was preparing himself for a<br />
possible collapse of “the grid.” We’ve<br />
become so reliant on technology that<br />
the slightest glitch can wreak havoc. An<br />
interruption in the power supply can<br />
affect access to water, fuel, fresh food, as<br />
well as hamper communications. A case<br />
in point is the recent grounding of one of<br />
the world’s largest airline carriers due to<br />
a simple power outage.<br />
Connect Within<br />
Barring an imposed disconnection from<br />
the grid, many of us are unable to detach<br />
ourselves from our technological shackles<br />
and are unable to function without them.<br />
Along with the physical and social<br />
repercussions from the overuse of<br />
technology — particularly electronics<br />
and information technology — there are<br />
challenges to our self-identity. Research<br />
indicates that as the use of technology<br />
increases, the locus of control for a<br />
sense of being, which should come from<br />
within a person, has become increasingly<br />
external.<br />
According to spiritual healer, Mas<br />
Sajady, the more we are bound to our<br />
electronics, the more we reside outside<br />
of ourselves and are disconnected from<br />
our true essence. In other words, in<br />
unhealthy use, we connect to technology<br />
to disconnect from ourselves.<br />
In other words, is Pokémon Go<br />
‘augmented reality’ or is it diminished<br />
reality?<br />
The Soul or the Machine<br />
Sajady distinguishes between spiritual<br />
technology and mechanical technology<br />
and suggests that we get off the grid<br />
in order to become aware of our own<br />
spiritual technology. He states that<br />
our spiritual technology is much more<br />
advanced than any mechanical technology<br />
humanity has created and it allows us to<br />
know ourselves at a deeper level.<br />
Like the two gardens I visited this<br />
summer, we can choose to consciously<br />
engage in the web of life that surrounds<br />
us or we can allow the artificial web<br />
to dictate our life experiences. Which<br />
garden will I find you in?<br />
Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker, is<br />
a holistic health practitioner practicing in<br />
Hanoi. For information on the types of services<br />
provided, visit a-roamingbodyworker.com<br />
148 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
Hanoi<br />
Essentials<br />
VIETLONG HOUSING<br />
RENTALS<br />
21 Alley 1/22 Au Co, Tay Ho,<br />
Tel: (04) 3718 5203<br />
vietlonghousing.com<br />
M M M<br />
RELOCATION AGENTS<br />
ALLIED PICKFORDS<br />
Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan<br />
Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511<br />
vn.alliedpickfords.com<br />
The largest home moving<br />
company in the world, Allied<br />
Pickfords moves over 1,000<br />
families in over 175 countries<br />
every day. Has a full range of<br />
services — domestic moves,<br />
office moves and storage —<br />
both inside and outside of<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>.<br />
JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS<br />
6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel:<br />
(04)3826 0334<br />
jvkasia.com<br />
Focused primarily on the international<br />
and local movement<br />
of household goods,<br />
JVK is currently a leader in<br />
the field. Has offices in both<br />
Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.<br />
AGS FOUR WINDS<br />
41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel:<br />
(04) 3938 8762<br />
agsfourwinds.com<br />
A worldwide leader in international<br />
removals and relocations,<br />
with 130 offices<br />
globally. Have the capacity to<br />
move property to and from<br />
any location.<br />
SANTA FE<br />
RELOCATION SERVICES<br />
Suite 821, <strong>Vietnam</strong> Trade Hotel,<br />
14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan<br />
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 0805<br />
santaferelo.com<br />
With over 150 offices around<br />
the world, Santa Fe offers local<br />
and international moving,<br />
pet transportation, relocation<br />
services including home<br />
search, orientation, cultural<br />
training, immigration services<br />
and records management.<br />
M M M<br />
SPORTS, FITNESS<br />
& YOGA<br />
ELITE FITNESS<br />
TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE<br />
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:<br />
(04) 3718 6281<br />
elitefitness.com.vn<br />
The luxury gym features<br />
top-of-the-line fitness<br />
equipment, separate cardio<br />
and spinning areas and an<br />
indoor swimming pool with<br />
a retractable roof. The spacious<br />
studios and natural<br />
light make it a welcoming<br />
place to squeeze in a work<br />
out, but be prepared to pay.<br />
This place is top of the range.<br />
N SHAPE FITNESS<br />
MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE<br />
5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi<br />
Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)<br />
6266 0495<br />
nshapefitness.vn<br />
STUDIO FIVE<br />
YOGA & WELLNESS<br />
5th Fl, 135 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai<br />
Ba Trung. Tel: (04) 6263.1515<br />
studio5.vn<br />
VIETCLIMB<br />
CLIMBING CENTRE<br />
40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho,<br />
Tel: 0914 143185<br />
vietclimb.vn<br />
Although a little hard to find,<br />
VietClimb is a French-owned,<br />
200-meter climbing gym<br />
with state-of-the-art courses.<br />
There are 100 different<br />
climbing routes within the<br />
gym that are changed every<br />
few months. They offer clinics,<br />
classes and children’s<br />
events. Membership and<br />
group rates are available,<br />
but be sure to check out the<br />
three-month pass.<br />
ZENITH YOGA & CAFÉ<br />
YOGA & NUTRITION<br />
247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 62 Ly<br />
Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem; Tel:<br />
0904 356 561<br />
zenithyogavietnam.com<br />
The oldest and most professional<br />
Yoga Studio in<br />
Hanoi, Zenith offers a vast<br />
variety of classes and levels<br />
in Iyengar, Hatha, Vinyasa,<br />
Ashtanga and Pilates while<br />
also offering Restorative,<br />
Prenatal & Postnatal Yoga,<br />
Meditation sessions, and<br />
Kundalini classes. Also have<br />
a yogic shop offering incense,<br />
clothes and yoga props, as<br />
well as a café serving up the<br />
homemade vegetarian meals,<br />
cakes and coffee.<br />
SPORTSWEAR<br />
& EQUIPMENT<br />
ADIDAS FOOTBALL<br />
FOOTBALL & SPORTS<br />
19 Nui Truc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)<br />
6273 3095<br />
BOO SKATESHOP<br />
SKATING EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING<br />
84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel:<br />
(04) 3923 1147<br />
bosua.vn<br />
HANOI SPORTS SHOP<br />
146, Mai Dich, Cau Giay, Tel:<br />
(04) 2218 5757<br />
hanoisport.vn<br />
SCORE-TECH<br />
44, Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:<br />
(04) 3718 8246<br />
score-tech.net<br />
Apparel company offering<br />
personalised sport<br />
garments for companies,<br />
schools and professional<br />
sports clubs using the latest<br />
printing technology with a<br />
design team from Barcelona.<br />
Score-Tech controls the<br />
whole production process<br />
from fabric production and<br />
printing to sewing. Big and<br />
small orders for all sporting<br />
and commercial needs.<br />
UMOVE TRAVEL<br />
AND OUTDOORS<br />
TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING<br />
13 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel:<br />
(04) 3771 3305<br />
umove.com.vn<br />
SUPER-<br />
MARKETS<br />
BIG C<br />
222 Tran Duy Hung,<br />
Cau Giay;<br />
Garden Shopping<br />
Centre, The Manor,<br />
My Dinh, Tu Liem<br />
bigc.vn<br />
CITIMART<br />
Ground Floor,<br />
Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai<br />
Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Tel: (04) 3934 2999<br />
FIVIMART<br />
27A Ly Thai To,<br />
Hoan Kiem<br />
INTIMEX<br />
22-23 Le Thai To,<br />
Hoan Kiem<br />
METRO THANG<br />
LONG<br />
Pham Van Dong,<br />
Co Nhue, Tu Liem,<br />
Tel: (04) 3755 1617<br />
metro.com.vn<br />
PHOTO BY JESSE MEADOWS
THE THERAPIST<br />
CHANGING PERSONALITIES<br />
BY DOUGLAS HOLWERDA<br />
Dear Douglas,<br />
For the past year, since I have lived in Hanoi,<br />
I have been sharing a house with three<br />
other expats. One is a woman who amazes<br />
me with her constant ability to be positive.<br />
She never complains or criticizes. When I,<br />
or the other housemates, talk badly about<br />
someone or bitch about work, she listens but<br />
doesn’t really say anything. When she does<br />
comment, it is usually to give someone the<br />
benefit of the doubt. It really bugged me for<br />
a while, at first, and I thought she was just<br />
hiding her real feelings. Now, I have to say<br />
that I am affected by her and wish I could<br />
be less negative and sarcastic. Is it possible?<br />
Can people change their personalities? I<br />
don’t want to be fake.<br />
— Elizabeth (not real name)<br />
Dear Elizabeth,<br />
You sound inspired. You are asking a<br />
good question about whether people can<br />
change. The answer is yes and no. Our<br />
personality is generally thought of to be an<br />
inner structure that remains constant over<br />
the course of one’s life. However, there are<br />
many aspects of who we are that are not<br />
fixed and are a matter of choice — things<br />
we can learn or unlearn, attitudes and<br />
outlooks we can modify. Our mood is also<br />
a significant part of what influences our<br />
behaviour and our thoughts.<br />
Your housemate is someone who seems<br />
to hold the trait of resilience. It is an ability<br />
to see the difficult aspects of life, without<br />
being caught by the negative feelings or<br />
perspectives. It starts with an acceptance<br />
that life is difficult or painful, and the<br />
choice to see “beyond” that truth.<br />
William James, one of my favourite early<br />
psychologists, said: “The art of wisdom is<br />
the art of knowing what to overlook.” We do<br />
have selective choice about where we put our<br />
attention and focus. Most of us get caught in<br />
our pain, disappointments and expectations<br />
and find ourselves with a negative outlook<br />
from time to time, or maybe a lot.<br />
Your awareness has been raised and you<br />
are seeing yourself differently. Changing<br />
can feel strange at first, like we are not<br />
being “ourselves”. But over time we morph<br />
in the direction of our intention. Catching<br />
yourself at being sarcastic or overly critical,<br />
creates space for something different.<br />
Trying to give people the benefit of the<br />
doubt or putting yourself in their shoes<br />
shifts the way we see things and results in<br />
change. When you think about it, change<br />
is inevitable. We grow up, we mature,<br />
we learn from our mistakes, we develop<br />
perspectives from the experience of life.<br />
So, doing that consciously is what I think<br />
you are talking about.<br />
One aspect of those who tend to a<br />
positive outlook on life is their ability to<br />
hold gratitude. When we consciously are<br />
able to see the ways that life is good, not to<br />
the exclusion of painful reality, we can keep<br />
things in perspective. Every day it is possible<br />
to see beauty, to experience pleasure and joy,<br />
to feel love and connection, and to value the<br />
small ways that life offers gifts to us.<br />
Sometimes we have to overcome a deep<br />
belief that we do not deserve happiness or<br />
the desirable aspects of life. Deep down we<br />
have come to believe that we are not worth<br />
it, we are not lovable, we are not “good”<br />
enough. It can be a major obstacle to the<br />
resilience I am talking about.<br />
It is a core belief that needs to be<br />
challenged and was probably learned from<br />
an early age. It can cause us to sabotage<br />
our own growth and steal away the<br />
positive aspects of life. Ask yourself a deep<br />
question: Do I feel like I don’t deserve to<br />
have a life that includes joy, gratitude and<br />
contentment? This is where therapy can<br />
be really helpful, to understand where the<br />
belief has come from and to strip away the<br />
inhibiting power of that false belief.<br />
I wish you continued inspiration,<br />
— Douglas<br />
Do you have a question you would like<br />
Douglas’s help with? You can email him at<br />
douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal<br />
details will not be printed<br />
150 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
Hanoi<br />
On the Town<br />
BARS, CLUBS &<br />
BEER CLUBS<br />
+84 BAR<br />
CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR<br />
23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem<br />
facebook.com/bar84hanoi<br />
Housed in a colonial building,<br />
bare brick, comfortable<br />
sofa-like seating and grungy<br />
decor related to a past make<br />
up the mix at this venue put<br />
together by the people behind<br />
Barbetta.<br />
88 LOUNGE<br />
CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR<br />
88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel:<br />
(04) 3718 8029<br />
88group.vn<br />
A wine bar with a difference,<br />
this mainstay on the watering<br />
hole scene in West Lake<br />
mixes contemporary design,<br />
black ceilings, subtle lighting<br />
and an international aesthetic<br />
with one of the best wine<br />
lists in town. Not surprisingly<br />
it is developing a faithful clientele.<br />
Well worth a visit.<br />
ANGELINA<br />
CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN<br />
Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel,<br />
56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Tel: (04) 3826 6919<br />
Top-end bar and Italian restaurant<br />
all in one. Five star<br />
prices, but has an atmosphere<br />
to match and a great<br />
cocktail selection. The kind<br />
of place you’ll order a wagyu<br />
and eat it at the bar.<br />
BACKYARD BIA HOI<br />
UPMARKET BIA HOI<br />
15/50 Quang Khanh, Tay Ho<br />
From the Tet Lifestyle collection,<br />
this outdoor, hideaway,<br />
garden-based bia hoi is every<br />
bit as attractive (and popular)<br />
as its café peers in the<br />
West Lake area. A <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese-style<br />
food menu and<br />
regular live music make up<br />
the mix.<br />
BARBETTA<br />
ARTSY BAR & CAFE<br />
34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh,<br />
Tel: (04) 3734 9134<br />
Set in a colonial villa, when<br />
it comes to design, the funky<br />
but comfortable Barbetta<br />
with its roof terrace is difficult<br />
to beat. A great place<br />
for coffee, beer or even a<br />
bite to eat.<br />
CAMA ATK<br />
MUSIC & ARTS BAR<br />
73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung,<br />
Tel: 01262 054970<br />
cama-atk.com<br />
With well-poured drinks,<br />
a foosball table, no smoking<br />
and a midnight closing<br />
time, CAMA ATK knows exactly<br />
what it wants to be<br />
— and that’s refreshing. The<br />
space is a part time venue<br />
for smaller acts and DJs. The<br />
venue is hip, comfortable<br />
and will likely provide the<br />
serious drinker with a reliable<br />
place to pull up a stool<br />
and take pulls in a relaxed<br />
haven.<br />
EDEN HANOI<br />
OUTDOOR PARTY SPACE<br />
End of 264 Au Co, Tay Ho<br />
facebook.com/edengargen<br />
When it comes to outdoor<br />
parties, big outdoor parties,<br />
the setting at Eden makes<br />
this place difficult to beat,<br />
with well over a 1,000 revellers<br />
packing in at the weekends.<br />
Check out their Facebook<br />
page for the party list.<br />
ETE BAR<br />
FRENCH LOUNGE<br />
95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh,<br />
Tel: 0976 751331<br />
A favourite among those<br />
who roam further west of<br />
the city centre, this multistorey<br />
restobar has been going<br />
strong for more than two<br />
years. It has balconies, mezzanine<br />
seating and a long bar<br />
guarding exactly 50 different<br />
cocktails. For many the Ete<br />
burger is right on the mark<br />
as are the sandwiches, tartines<br />
and salads. It’s always<br />
crowded — especially during<br />
the weekends. Amiable staff,<br />
pleasant vibes.<br />
FATCAT BAR<br />
DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT<br />
25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:<br />
0986 495211<br />
linkhanoi.com<br />
A small establishment from<br />
the minds behind the party<br />
and event organisers, LinkHanoi.<br />
The bar has tables filling<br />
the first floor and spilling<br />
onto the sidewalk as well as<br />
a small loft area for lounging.<br />
FURBREW<br />
CRAFT BEER BAR<br />
8B/52 To Ngoc Van, TayHo<br />
furbrew.com<br />
You like your home-style<br />
brews and you have a craving<br />
for an IPA, a pale ale or a<br />
wheat beer that you can’t get<br />
anywhere else. Furbrew is<br />
your answer. Six craft beers<br />
from the tap, all brewed by<br />
the venue, with a pleasant<br />
West Lake-like vibe to match.<br />
HANOI ROCK CITY<br />
LIVE MUSIC VENUE<br />
27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,<br />
Tel: 01633 166170<br />
facebook.com/hrc.hanoi<br />
Has a downstairs, Englishstyle<br />
pub garden area and<br />
an upstairs space dedicated<br />
to live music and live production.<br />
Weekly live events<br />
feature bands and DJs both<br />
from <strong>Vietnam</strong> and overseas<br />
— established and up and<br />
coming.<br />
HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS<br />
CZECH MICROBREWERY<br />
1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung,<br />
Tel: (04) 3972 5088<br />
LE SOLEIL<br />
DDJ BAR / LATE NIGHT<br />
284 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel:<br />
0915 663993<br />
facebook.com/lesoleilpaoloandchi<br />
Open late, Le Soleil has become<br />
a place to be seen,<br />
especially if you’re the dancing-into-the-early<br />
hours kind<br />
of person. Sofas, bar stools,<br />
menus on blackboards and<br />
neon-coloured lighting,<br />
there’s a grunge-style feel to<br />
the place, but it’s an ambience<br />
that Le Soleil’s customers<br />
seem to love. Has a pizza<br />
joint, Paolo and Chi, upstairs.<br />
MAO’S RED LOUNGE<br />
LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR<br />
7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:<br />
(04) 3926 3104<br />
There’s only one Mao and<br />
there’s only one red lounge.<br />
This late-night bar has been<br />
going for years, and despite<br />
its Old Quarter dive status,<br />
it still packs in the drinkers.<br />
POLITE PUB<br />
LONG BAR<br />
5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel:<br />
(04) 3825 0959<br />
5pm to 2am<br />
Probably the closest thing<br />
Hanoi has to an authentic<br />
English-style pub, Polite is<br />
frequented by a steady mix<br />
of locals and expats who find<br />
solace in the nightly conversations<br />
at the long bar, pool<br />
and live football matches.<br />
RED RIVER TEA ROOM<br />
LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE<br />
25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho<br />
facebook.com/pages/Red-<br />
River-Tea-Room<br />
Located on the lakeside<br />
lane just below Xuan Dieu,<br />
this warm, quiet and friendly<br />
pub offers a selection of international<br />
and local beers,<br />
wine, cocktails and a nice<br />
view of West Lake. Serving<br />
pies and pasties from The<br />
Cart, <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese food from<br />
Dieu’s next door, or delivery<br />
from nearby favourites. Unpretentious,<br />
dog-friendly.<br />
ROCKSTORE<br />
LIVE MUSIC BAR<br />
61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:<br />
01653 336087<br />
facebook.com/Rockstore-<br />
Hanoi<br />
Hanoi's home-made, homegrown<br />
version of Hard Rock<br />
Cafe without the stigma and<br />
the expensive prices. Nightly<br />
live music or DJing events are<br />
coupled with creative decor, a<br />
selection of Belgian Beer and<br />
a food menu. Check their Facebook<br />
page for details.<br />
SIDEWALK HANOI<br />
DIY BAR & EVENTS VENUE<br />
199D Nghi Tam, Tay Ho<br />
facebook.com/sidewalkhanoi<br />
A bar and grill with an eclectic,<br />
DIY-style semi-outdoor<br />
setting. Regular DJ nights and<br />
live music add to the great<br />
ambience. Check out their<br />
grill fare. Tasty.<br />
SPY BAR<br />
HOLE IN THE WALL<br />
12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan<br />
Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802<br />
A cheap, cheerful and welcoming<br />
slither of a watering<br />
hole popular with expats and<br />
anyone looking for some<br />
good conversation. Cheap<br />
beers, oodles of Jameson’s<br />
and often open late. Oh, and<br />
check out the Danish hotdog<br />
stand out front. To die for.<br />
TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR<br />
AND CAFE<br />
ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE<br />
24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem<br />
tadioto.com<br />
Located close to the Opera<br />
House, this alternative, arty<br />
bar is garnished in red and<br />
white on the outside, with<br />
warm brown and tones of<br />
blue on the inside. Creating<br />
an atmosphere merging<br />
Shanghai and San Francisco,<br />
engaging contemporary artwork<br />
lines the walls at the<br />
latest incarnation of this wellknown<br />
and well-loved space.<br />
THE REPUBLIC<br />
MODERN SPORTS BAR<br />
7A Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel:<br />
0904 010116<br />
republic.vn<br />
A contemporary mid-range<br />
bar and eatery showing<br />
live sport and boasting a<br />
convivial atmosphere. Has<br />
a creative comfort food<br />
menu, excellent breakfasts,<br />
daily specials and a popular<br />
second-floor outdoor terrace.<br />
THE ROOFTOP<br />
SKYLINE LOUNGE<br />
19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B<br />
Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Tel: (04) 3946 1901<br />
therooftop.vn<br />
The first up-on-high bar and<br />
restaurant in the capital and<br />
still a leader in its field. With<br />
DJs spinning EDM and great<br />
views of the city, this is a<br />
must for a more <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese,<br />
top-shelf experience.<br />
THE UNICORN BAR<br />
COCKTAIL BAR & LOUNGE<br />
2A Hang Than, Ba Dinh, Tel:<br />
0904 886266<br />
The latest offering of wellknown<br />
champion bartender,<br />
Pham Tien Tiep, Unicorn offers<br />
up a lounge space, a<br />
small bar area and an attractive<br />
seating space out front.<br />
Now, as for the cocktails…<br />
TRACY’S PUB AND GRILL<br />
SPORTS BAR/GRILL<br />
114 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:<br />
(04) 6675 9838<br />
tracyspub.com<br />
A miniscule sports bar on<br />
the main drag of Xuan Dieu<br />
is perpetually crowded with<br />
regulars drinking out front on<br />
plastic stools. Notorious for<br />
its burgers, cooked fresh to<br />
order, Tracy’s is also famous<br />
for their draft beers, claiming<br />
to serve the coldest draft<br />
beer in Hanoi.<br />
VUVUZELA<br />
MODERN BEER HALL<br />
2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba<br />
Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 8922<br />
vuvuzela.com.vn<br />
When Vuvuzela opened up,<br />
mixing the Hooters concept<br />
from the US with a beer hall,<br />
drinking food and a DJ booth,<br />
it created the start of a new<br />
scene — beer clubs. The original<br />
Vuvuzela on Tran Thanh<br />
Tong is still going strong, but<br />
it’s so popular that it’s best to<br />
book your table in advance.<br />
For a full list of Hanoi locations,<br />
check their website.<br />
CAFES<br />
ANNAM CAFE<br />
DELI / INTERNATIONAL CAFE<br />
Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu,<br />
Tay Ho<br />
A trendy, deli-style café connected<br />
to Annam Gourmet<br />
next door. Bright and fresh<br />
décor is complemented by<br />
shelves stocked with imported<br />
gourmet goods and<br />
cafeteria-style furniture. An<br />
eye-catching temptation for<br />
weary shoppers.<br />
CIAO CAFÉ<br />
RESTO LOUNGE<br />
2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel:<br />
(04) 3934 1494<br />
A stone’s throw from the<br />
shores of Hoan Kiem Lake,<br />
this Saigonese franchise offers<br />
a variety of different<br />
western dishes at reasonable<br />
prices. Loaded with booths<br />
and a steady, young <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
crowd, the establishment<br />
is a great place to<br />
squash a sandwich or bowl<br />
of pasta and people watch.<br />
They also do coffee.<br />
COFFEE BEAN<br />
AND TEA LEAF<br />
INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE<br />
28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho,<br />
Tel: (04) 3715 4240<br />
coffeebean.com<br />
This American-style chain<br />
cafe is a multilevel, indoor/<br />
outdoor café overlooking<br />
Westlake. With its LA coffee<br />
and office feel, when you<br />
walk in you might just forget<br />
that you’re in Hanoi.<br />
CONG CAPHE<br />
LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE<br />
152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba<br />
Trung; 32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba<br />
Dinh; 27 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem;<br />
15 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh; 100A<br />
Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho<br />
congcaphe.com<br />
With a kitsch, communistdriven<br />
theme saturating this<br />
quaint cafe, most patrons<br />
are young <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese bohemians<br />
and artsy expats.<br />
Sip on a blended cup of joe<br />
with beans from the Central<br />
Highlands, knock back one of<br />
the many different types of<br />
tea available or sip on freshly<br />
squeezed juice from the<br />
Spartan cups in one of the<br />
hippest café chains in town.<br />
D’ALICE<br />
BOUTIQUE CAFE<br />
89 Trieu Viet Vuong,<br />
Hai Ba Trung<br />
Put together coffee and cake<br />
and you get one of those<br />
timeless combinations. And<br />
if you really want to binge on<br />
the cake-end, then check out<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 151
BAR STOOL<br />
LANTERN LOUNGE<br />
Opened a year and a half ago by<br />
owner Hanh Pham, Lantern<br />
Lounge (80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Hanoi) is her vision for a chilled<br />
out, beautiful and unique drinking and<br />
dining space. It has been wowing patrons<br />
from day one.<br />
The first thing that will strike you as<br />
you emerge at the top of the stairs from<br />
the modest restaurant below, is the décor.<br />
Inspired by the famous lanterns which<br />
illuminate Hoi An’s ancient riverside<br />
shophouses, all of the main rooms of Lantern<br />
Lounge are bedecked with dozens of<br />
colourful lanterns in all shapes and sizes.<br />
Best enjoyed in the evening, these lanterns<br />
provide the perfect amount of light to create<br />
the relaxed atmosphere which is an excellent<br />
antidote to the madness of the Old Quarter<br />
streets outside.<br />
The walls depict scenes of old Hanoi,<br />
sketched out in black against a backdrop<br />
of red. Propped up against them are<br />
massive comfy pillows, on top of spongy<br />
futon-like seats.<br />
Flavours<br />
On the third floor, there is a large room<br />
hosting a full-size pool table, seating and a<br />
meaty speaker system. The second floor is<br />
home to the smoking area, where locals and<br />
foreigners sit side-by-side enjoying one of the<br />
many flavours of shisha on offer, or simply<br />
enjoying a cigarette on the balcony, watching<br />
the lost backpackers trundling around outside.<br />
The main room is non-smoking, and often<br />
full of people tucking into some of Hanoi’s<br />
most famous dishes. The manager, Duong<br />
Pham, tells me that the restaurant below has<br />
been connected with Lantern Lounge from<br />
the beginning.<br />
“We’ve always had food here,” Duong<br />
explained. “We even have a whole separate<br />
menu just for vegetarian food.” He guides<br />
me through the menu, proudly pointing out<br />
152 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
PHOTOS BY THEO LOWENSTEIN<br />
a few customer favourites.<br />
“Foreigners love nem so much, and we<br />
have many other traditional <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
dishes,” he says, pointing to other local<br />
favourites such as bun cha, cha ca and pho bo.<br />
In a nod to my student days, I order a<br />
couple of deep fried dishes to accompany<br />
the flow of alcohol. The Hanoi spring rolls<br />
(VND85,000) were just as they should be,<br />
crispy and not overly filling. After that, the<br />
crispy mushrooms (VND65,000) were given<br />
zest by the tangy chilli and soya sauce.<br />
Electric Blue<br />
With an almost unbelievable Old Quarter<br />
price of just VND55,000 for a rum-based<br />
cocktail, I wasn’t expecting much from my<br />
first drink, the snow caipirinha. Happy<br />
to be proven wrong, I had to admit to the<br />
pleasant surprise of electric blue crushed ice,<br />
delicately flavoured with lime and sugar.<br />
Despite the first drink hitting the<br />
spot in all the right ways, and believing<br />
that variety is the spice of life, for my<br />
next drink I went for an old favourite<br />
and cocktail classic, the pina colada<br />
(VND85,000).<br />
A no-thrills version, simply made with<br />
rum, pineapple juice and coconut cream, it<br />
was as pleasant to behold as it was to taste.<br />
Served in a hollowed out pineapple, it was<br />
the perfect balance of sweet coconut and<br />
sour pineapple.<br />
As a restaurant, Lantern Lounge is<br />
pretty good. As a bar, it’s excellent. A<br />
cool place to hang out, the drinks are<br />
reasonably priced and well made, and<br />
the comfort of the seats combined with<br />
the atmosphere created by the décor and<br />
music means you will be in no rush to go<br />
home. — Edward Dalton<br />
Lantern Lounge is located above Cuisine<br />
Viet at 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. Open<br />
from 11am until midnight, the kitchen closes<br />
at 11pm<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 153
COFFEE CUP<br />
TYPOGRAF CAFÉ<br />
PHOTOS BY BORIS LOPATIN<br />
Take one step through the door at<br />
Typograf Café and Restaurant and<br />
you know you’re in for something<br />
different.<br />
Propped up along the corner of Le<br />
Duan and Tran Hung Dao, Typograf<br />
is a comfortable hub for creativity and<br />
expression. The room itself is a large open<br />
space; it looks like a barn converted into<br />
an old speakeasy. Plants and artwork<br />
hang from the walls. The floor space is<br />
busy with little square tables set out to<br />
provide an unblocked viewing of the stage,<br />
the centrepiece of the room. Standing<br />
on the stage is a drum kit, a piano and<br />
a microphone stand under a red-brick<br />
backdrop decorated with heavy neon<br />
letters that read You Are What You Listen To.<br />
The first time I walked through that<br />
door I was surprised to stumble upon a<br />
collective painting session. The square<br />
tables were lined up in two rows, each<br />
with an artist occupying a canvas. Some<br />
two dozen artists were painting the same<br />
scene, coordinated by the painter of the<br />
original work.<br />
These painting sessions take place every<br />
Sunday from morning until evening for a<br />
VND400,000 fee.<br />
You Are What You Listen To<br />
Once the paintings were finished, and the<br />
artists had posed for pictures with their<br />
newest works, the tables were rearranged<br />
linearly to face the stage and a drummer<br />
began his sound check. A rattling chorus of<br />
drum beats filled the room for five minutes.<br />
A group of girls hurried on to the stage<br />
to the piano and began quietly practising<br />
classical melodies.<br />
Typograf is part of an emerging group of<br />
bars and cafés that host free live music daily.<br />
From 9pm the lights are dimmed and the<br />
floor is overtaken by eager ears tuned in for<br />
a session of jazz and acoustic music from<br />
some of Hanoi’s finest young talent.<br />
During my last visit the stage was graced<br />
by a five-piece outfit including a pianist, a<br />
saxophonist, a guitarist and a drummer, who<br />
opened with an instrumental jazz cover of<br />
Zombie by The Cranberries.<br />
Tech Café<br />
During weekday afternoons, Typograf is<br />
an ideal workspace for the creative digital<br />
nomad to get work done in a relaxed and<br />
welcoming environment. Plug sockets are<br />
conveniently placed around the floor to cater<br />
for techies and in the daytime the music is<br />
kept at a non-intrusive background volume.<br />
Whether working alone at one of the<br />
wooden coffee tables or meeting friends and<br />
colleagues in one of three sofa booths, you<br />
can find comfort and inspiration from the<br />
artistic and homely decoration.<br />
The drinks menu is impressive. A diverse<br />
range of flavoured hot fruit tea for VND59,000<br />
or a ‘Colour of Love’ soda mix for VND69,000<br />
will help you to relax in the afternoon.<br />
During the later hours, when the<br />
atmosphere gears towards jazz, you can<br />
sit back with a whisky sour or any other<br />
of a good size selection of cocktails for<br />
VND80,000.<br />
Typograf is just another example of<br />
Hanoi’s unrivalled café scene. It has enough<br />
space to cater for groups of friends who<br />
want to catch up over a coffee while not<br />
disturbing those who are looking for a space<br />
to set up a laptop and get some work done.<br />
The added cream on top is its lively jazz<br />
and acoustic sessions that take over the<br />
atmosphere every night of the week. —<br />
Billy Gray<br />
Typograf Café is located at 99 Le Duan, Hoan<br />
Kiem, Hanoi, opposite the Hanoi Train Station.<br />
On their Facebook page they post in detail about<br />
daily live music and other events<br />
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wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 155
Hanoi<br />
On the Town<br />
d’Alice and its quirky interior.<br />
Perfect for that more modern<br />
combination of sweet tooth<br />
and iThingy.<br />
DUY TRI<br />
VIETNAMESE CAFÉ<br />
43 Yen Phu, Tay Ho<br />
The longest-running café in<br />
the capital, this 1936-established,<br />
three-floored space is<br />
simplicity at its finest. Even<br />
the coffee here sticks to its<br />
roots — it’s made using the<br />
same blend of Arabica and<br />
Robusta cooked up by its<br />
founders. Unpretentious, endearing<br />
and old-fashioned.<br />
HANOI COOKING<br />
CENTRE CAFÉ<br />
COURTYARD CAFE<br />
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh<br />
Relax in a leafy courtyard, aircon<br />
dining room or under a<br />
covered roof terrace with a<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese ca phe, Italian<br />
coffee, beer, wine or freshly<br />
squeezed juice. Order from a<br />
seasonally changing menu or<br />
try one of the all-day breakfast<br />
specials for VND110,000, including<br />
juice and coffee or tea.<br />
HANOI HOUSE<br />
HIDEAWAY CAFE<br />
2nd Floor, 47A Ly Quoc Su,<br />
Hoan Kiem<br />
Set in a colonial-era building<br />
with equally colonialera<br />
styled furnishings, this<br />
hidden away family house<br />
café is one of those gems<br />
synonymous with Hanoi.<br />
Quiet, intimate and simple,<br />
the staff will treat you like<br />
you’re a guest in their home.<br />
HIGHLANDS COFFEE<br />
CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN<br />
5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan<br />
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228;<br />
Opera House, 1 Trang Tien,<br />
Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers,<br />
49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem<br />
highlandscoffee.com.vn<br />
With numerous locations<br />
around town, what originally<br />
started as a fourth-floor joint<br />
overlooking the lake has<br />
become one of the most<br />
popular, home-grown cafes<br />
in <strong>Vietnam</strong>.<br />
JOMA<br />
COFFEE/BAKERY<br />
22 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Tel: (04) 3747 3388; 43 To<br />
Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)<br />
3718 6071<br />
joma.biz<br />
Popular café with a contemporary<br />
western feel to<br />
the counter-style service<br />
and atmosphere. The food<br />
is all there, too: breakfasts,<br />
salads, soups, ice cream,<br />
muffins, cakes, cereals and<br />
bagels. Starting in Laos in<br />
1996, Joma moved to Hanoi<br />
in 2009. Joma contributes 2<br />
percent of each sale to charitable<br />
organisations.<br />
KAFEVILLE<br />
COFFEE SPECIALIST & CAFE<br />
22 Nguyen TrungTruc, Ba<br />
Dinh, Tel: 0906 221030<br />
If you like your coffee<br />
brewed in different styles<br />
and made with hard-to-find<br />
blends, this on-the-edge of<br />
the Old Quarter cafe is a<br />
dream. When it comes to<br />
good old caffeine, this small<br />
yet homely, vintage-styled<br />
cafe stands on its own. Also<br />
boasts and excellent selection<br />
of teas.<br />
KINH DO<br />
PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE<br />
252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Tel: (04) 3825 0216<br />
One of the longest-running<br />
cafes in town, this hole-inthe-wall,<br />
no frills café-cumrestaurant<br />
home-makes its<br />
patisseries and is renowned<br />
for its excellent yoghurt.<br />
MANZI ARTSPACE<br />
ARTS CAFÉ & GALLERY<br />
14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh,<br />
Tel: (04) 3716 3397<br />
facebook.com/manzihanoi<br />
A stunningly designed contemporary<br />
café and events<br />
space that screams out the<br />
words ‘modern art’. Housed in<br />
a converted colonial-era villa, a<br />
continuous flow of exhibitions,<br />
talks, experimental music and<br />
game shows make up the mix<br />
here. Great cuisine, too.<br />
MAISON DE TET DÉCOR<br />
LIFESTYLE CAFE<br />
36 Tu Hoa, Nghi Tam Village,<br />
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 9722<br />
tet-lifestyle-collection.com<br />
On-site coffee roasting,<br />
comfortable seating arrangements,<br />
rustic style furnishings<br />
and décor, and a focus<br />
on healthy, non-processed<br />
foods. This is the concept<br />
behind Maison de Tet Décor,<br />
and it’s a popular one, too,<br />
as witnessed by the size of<br />
the clientele. Also run occasional<br />
farmers’ markets.<br />
MOC CAFE<br />
CAFE / INTERNATIONAL<br />
14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.<br />
(04) 3825 6334<br />
Set in a slightly run down<br />
colonial villa, the faded but<br />
charmingly run down Frenchstyled<br />
retro interior, good<br />
WiFi and some of the best<br />
coffee in town makes this<br />
a great spot to while away<br />
a couple of hours. The food<br />
menu mixes <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese fare<br />
with sandwiches, western<br />
and pan-Asian mains.<br />
PUKU<br />
INTERNATIONAL / CAFE<br />
16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan<br />
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745<br />
This spacious spot on Food<br />
Street is open around the<br />
clock, offering Aussie-inspired<br />
comfort food along with more<br />
eclectic Irish nachos, cottage<br />
pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs<br />
is fit for social gatherings<br />
and live music while the<br />
no-smoking downstairs space<br />
is filled with people working<br />
and socialising. Serves as<br />
community centre, especially<br />
late at night.<br />
SAINT HONORE<br />
CAFE / BOULANGERIE<br />
5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,<br />
Tel: (04) 3933 2355<br />
This cafe and French-style<br />
boulangerie is best visited<br />
in the morning when that<br />
Gallic, fresh-cooked bakery<br />
aroma hits you as you walk<br />
through the door. The downstairs<br />
space is split into the<br />
bakery on one side with a<br />
small non-smoking dining<br />
space on the other. The upstairs<br />
lounge area has standard<br />
tables as well as sofa<br />
seating. Simple but tasty<br />
French and international<br />
fare is served at meal times.<br />
SPACEBAR<br />
COWORKING CAFE<br />
Nha 15, 76 To Ngoc Van,<br />
TayHo<br />
clickspace.vn/spacebar<br />
A pleasant, ground floor<br />
cafe with an outdoor terrace<br />
that sits below offices and<br />
a co-working space. Serves<br />
up coffee, juices, breakfasts<br />
and western-style cafe fare.<br />
Perfect for work, Wifi, a bite<br />
to eat and coffee.<br />
TET DÉCOR CAFÉ<br />
ART CAFÉ & ESPRESSO BAR<br />
Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai,<br />
Tay Ho<br />
tet-lifestyle-collection.com<br />
Cloistered among the back<br />
streets of West Lake and<br />
sheltered from the noise of<br />
Xuan Dieu, TET Décor Café is<br />
a destination for those who<br />
appreciate life’s pleasures:<br />
coffee, food, art and music.<br />
Simple and unpretentious,<br />
the café has an old-fashioned<br />
warmth and rustic feel<br />
combined with unique and<br />
inspiring art installations.<br />
THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB<br />
CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY<br />
6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Tel: (04) 3938 2117<br />
facebook.com/thehanoisocialclub<br />
A cozy midsize café/restaurant<br />
where you can forget<br />
the heat and bustle of Hanoi.<br />
The atmosphere is relaxed<br />
and here you can imagine,<br />
for a second, that you’re<br />
sitting in a European café.<br />
The ood is fresh and internationally<br />
inspired, and has<br />
an excellent top-floor terrace.<br />
YOLO<br />
FUNKY LIVE MUSIC CAFE<br />
32C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh<br />
facebook.com/YoloCoffee-<br />
Shops<br />
Boasting an abundance of<br />
communal seating, funky decor<br />
and a full roster of regular<br />
live music performances,<br />
this rollicking café-slash-bar<br />
has quickly earned a place in<br />
the hearts of Hanoi’s young<br />
and trendy. Fun, unpretentious<br />
and unashamedly<br />
quirky, it’s endearing use of<br />
recycled furniture — antiques<br />
and colourful artwork create<br />
a vibrant atmosphere —<br />
make for a popular hangout.<br />
Open 24 hours.<br />
ZENITH VEGETARIAN CAFE<br />
VEGETARIAN / VEGAN<br />
247 Au Co, Tay Ho,<br />
Tel: 0904 356561<br />
zenithyogavietnam.com<br />
A vegetarian and vegan cafe<br />
respecting the philosophy of<br />
yoga — simple living, mindful<br />
thinking. Using 100 percent<br />
natural ingredients, the cuisine<br />
has no additional additives<br />
or MSG and is cooked<br />
using the minimal amount<br />
of oil. The stress is instead<br />
on eating whole food in its<br />
natural state.<br />
EAT<br />
AL FRESCO’S<br />
AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL<br />
24 Quang An, Tay Ho,<br />
Tel: (04) 3938 1155<br />
alfrescogroup.com<br />
AMATO<br />
TAPAS / FRENCH CUISINE<br />
1A Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:<br />
01227 367470<br />
Located next to Binh Minh<br />
Jazz Club, Amato is a fusion<br />
tapas bar by night and a<br />
French restaurant during the<br />
day. Tiny, hip and yet surprisingly<br />
spacious, Amato offers<br />
an international dining and<br />
drinking experience in the<br />
heart of Hanoi.<br />
AU LAC DO BRAZIL<br />
BRAZILIAN<br />
6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh,<br />
Tel: (04) 3845 5224<br />
aulacdobrazil.com<br />
A Brazilian churrascaria<br />
offering all-you-can-eat<br />
grilled meat and seafood on<br />
the skewer. In typical Brazilian<br />
rodízio fashion, waiters<br />
bring cuts of meat to the<br />
table for patrons to pick and<br />
choose, all for a set price.<br />
They also offer wine pairings,<br />
a salad bar and an a la<br />
carte menu, with a creative<br />
selection of fruit caipirinhas.<br />
ASAHI SUSHI<br />
SUSHI RESTAURANT<br />
288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung,<br />
Tel: (04) 3974 5945<br />
asahisushi.vn<br />
CAFÉ 129<br />
MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD<br />
129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung,<br />
Tel: (04) 3821 5342<br />
Long-running, slightly incongruous<br />
hole-in-the-wall<br />
café and restaurant that<br />
has served up up a Western<br />
menu since the late 1990s.<br />
Check out their and their excellent<br />
breakfasts, all scoffed<br />
down in a traditional, <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
environment.<br />
CHOPS<br />
GOURMET BURGER & CRAFT BEER<br />
4 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)<br />
6292 1044<br />
chopsvietnam.com<br />
Finally Hanoi has a dedicated<br />
gourmet burger joint, and<br />
this West Lake eatery with its<br />
fan-cooled atmosphere get it<br />
just about right. This is comfort<br />
food at its finest. Served<br />
up with locally brewed craft<br />
beer, and this one’s a bit of<br />
a winner.<br />
COUSINS<br />
CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL<br />
3 Quang Ba, Tay Ho,<br />
Tel: 01238 670098<br />
facebook.com/cousins.hanoi<br />
A contemporary, Frenchinfluenced<br />
restaurant selling<br />
international cuisine<br />
at reasonable prices in a<br />
spacious, airy atmosphere.<br />
Blackboards, whitewashed,<br />
bare-brick walls, period tiles,<br />
a well-chosen wine list and an<br />
outdoor terrace overlooking<br />
the lake make up the formula.<br />
DA PAOLO<br />
CLASSIC ITALIAN<br />
18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai<br />
Mai, Tay Ho,<br />
Tel: (04) 3718 6317<br />
This airy, contemporary looking<br />
Italian restaurant next to<br />
the famed lawn chair and<br />
coconut café on West Lake<br />
has all the right ingredients<br />
to become a classic. Run by<br />
the long time former manager<br />
of Luna D’Autunno, it<br />
features scrumptious woodfired<br />
oven pizzas from<br />
VND120,000 and other Italian<br />
delicacies. Open every day<br />
for lunch and dinner, delivery<br />
is also available.<br />
DALUVA<br />
FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN<br />
33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,<br />
Tel: (04) 3718 5831<br />
daluva.com<br />
A popular hang-out for expats<br />
and trendy <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
in the Xuan Dieu area on<br />
West Lake. This bar and restaurant<br />
offers casual dining<br />
with a classy, Middle-Eastern<br />
twist, as well as wine, tapas,<br />
events and attractive décor.<br />
DON’S TAY HO<br />
CONTEMPORARY NORTH<br />
AMERICAN<br />
16 Quang An, Tay Ho,<br />
Tel: (04) 3719 3719<br />
Dons-bistro.com<br />
This lake-facing venue with<br />
its top floor Oyster Bar is the<br />
work of charismatic Canadian<br />
restaurateur and wine connoisseur<br />
Donald Berger. Focusing<br />
on comfort food done<br />
well, the main restaurant<br />
menu includes anything from<br />
wood-grilled rare tuna steak<br />
with fragrant Chinese black<br />
bean beurre noir to gourmet<br />
pizza and pasta dishes Excellent<br />
range of imported oysters,<br />
great breakfasts and an<br />
extensive wine list.<br />
EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE<br />
ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE<br />
11 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:<br />
(04) 3824 7280; 99 Xuan Dieu,<br />
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6991<br />
elgaucho.com.vn<br />
With venues in Saigon and<br />
Bangkok, the essence of El<br />
Gaucho is quality top grade<br />
156 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
meats off the grill. Steak is<br />
the mainstay — the USDA<br />
cuts are to die for — but<br />
everything from chicken,<br />
pork and seafood is also up<br />
for grabs. Add to this a backdrop<br />
of low Latin music, low,<br />
subtle lighting, an extensive<br />
wine list and slick service.<br />
There’s a reason El Gaucho is<br />
so successful — everything’s<br />
being taken care of.<br />
FOOD EXCHANGE<br />
INTERNATIONAL BUFFET<br />
RESTAURANT<br />
5 Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04)<br />
3576 6666<br />
accorhotels.com/9813<br />
Food Exchange offers up<br />
a well-priced international<br />
buffet for breakfast, lunch<br />
and dinner with a live cooking<br />
station. Excellent Asian<br />
and Western cuisine set in<br />
a contemporary restaurant<br />
with trendy décor and a<br />
chilled out ambiance.<br />
FOODSHOP 45<br />
INTERNATIONAL INDIAN<br />
59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh,<br />
Tel: (04) 3716 2959<br />
foodshop45.com<br />
Lakeside location and low<br />
bamboo seating, this eatery<br />
is one of the most popular<br />
Indians in town. Selling an<br />
international version of the<br />
mighty curry — they even<br />
sell pork and beef here — the<br />
menu keeps to the northern<br />
part of the subcontinent with<br />
masala, dopiaza, korma and<br />
the more Goan vindaloo taking<br />
centre stage.<br />
FRENCH GRILL<br />
TOP-END GRILL<br />
JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc<br />
Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem,<br />
Tel: (04) 3833 5588<br />
facebook.com/frenchgrill<br />
With unique decor, contemporary<br />
ambience, a walk-in<br />
wine cooler and a delectable<br />
seafood bar, this classy restaurant<br />
offers guests a service<br />
experience with crafted food<br />
difficult to find in the capital.<br />
GREEN TANGERINE<br />
FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION<br />
48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Tel: (04) 3825 1286<br />
greentangerinehanoi.com<br />
A leafy, cobblestone courtyard<br />
with dark green castiron<br />
backed chairs greets you<br />
as you walk into this French<br />
era-built villa that houses the<br />
main section of this Indochina-styled<br />
restaurant. Serving<br />
up an enticing mix of classic<br />
and contemporary French<br />
cuisine, blended in with<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese ingredients and<br />
cooking styles, the resultant<br />
fare has had customers coming<br />
back again and again. A<br />
traditional <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese and<br />
kids menu is also available,<br />
as is a wine list focusing<br />
mainly on French wines.<br />
HIGHWAY 4<br />
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC<br />
5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Tel: (04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat<br />
Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926<br />
0639; 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh,<br />
Tel: (04) 3771 6372<br />
The home of Son Tinh liquor,<br />
Highway 4 is also known for<br />
its communal dining and<br />
ethnic food menu taking in<br />
dishes from around the regions<br />
of northern <strong>Vietnam</strong>.<br />
Try out their catfish spring<br />
rolls. Phenomenal!<br />
INDIA PALACE<br />
NORTH INDIAN<br />
10B Quang An, Tay Ho<br />
Tel: 01247 668668<br />
indiapalacehn@vnn.vn<br />
Like a phoenix rising from the<br />
ashes, so India Palace has<br />
once again returned to Tay Ho,<br />
this time on the strip between<br />
Don’s and The Warehouse.<br />
Tasty North Indian fare in a<br />
pleasant environment from<br />
the team behind Tandoor.<br />
J.A.F.A.<br />
INTERNATIONAL<br />
G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho,<br />
Tel: (04) 3758 2400<br />
One of the larger and more<br />
comfortable bars in Hanoi,<br />
J.A.F.A. is a great place for<br />
drinking cocktails by the<br />
pool. The beverages are not<br />
the cheapest, but this is<br />
made up for by service and<br />
ambiance. They also have a<br />
full menu featuring familiar<br />
western dishes such as pizza<br />
and cheeseburgers and cater<br />
for large parties or dinner<br />
functions. Periodic buffets and<br />
drink specials are also offered.<br />
JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE<br />
STEAKHOUSE / GRILL<br />
23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Tel: (04) 3938 8388<br />
alfrescogroup.com<br />
An all-day eating and drinking<br />
lounge fit for all occasions,<br />
with of course, a focus<br />
on steak. Has three floors all<br />
with different vibes, the kind<br />
of slick service you’d expect<br />
from the Al Fresco’s Group<br />
and an extensive wine list.<br />
JASPA’S<br />
INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN<br />
Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba<br />
Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem,<br />
Tel: (04) 3934 8325<br />
alfrescosgroup.com<br />
Recently refurbished, the<br />
Australian-influenced Jaspa’s<br />
is known for its attentive<br />
service, tasty food and large<br />
portions. Popular with both<br />
the western and Asian expat<br />
communities who come<br />
back again and again. The<br />
comprehensive menu is a<br />
fusion of western and Asian<br />
cooking. The cocktails come<br />
large and the wine is mainly<br />
New World.<br />
KOTO ON VAN MIEU<br />
RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR<br />
59 Van Mieu, Dong Da,<br />
Tel: (04) 3747 0337<br />
koto.com.au<br />
The restaurant arm of Koto,<br />
an F&B training school for<br />
disadvantaged youth. Authentic<br />
Asian and European<br />
cuisine is served over four big<br />
floors of restaurant space. It’s<br />
cushioned, comfortable and<br />
has a rooftop terrace, too.<br />
Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo<br />
Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas,<br />
fish and chips, chicken<br />
Kievs and sandwiches all<br />
under one homely roof.<br />
KY Y<br />
JAPANESE RICE EATERY<br />
166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba<br />
Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386<br />
Not to be mistake for a sushi<br />
joint, this wonderful restaurant<br />
is your typical, Japanese<br />
working person’s rice eatery.<br />
Has a bar area downstairs<br />
and booth-like seating on<br />
the upper floors.<br />
LA BADIANE<br />
CONTEMPORARY FRENCH<br />
10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Tel: (04) 3942 4509<br />
labadiane-hanoi.com<br />
On entering La Badiane, you<br />
are instantly caught by the<br />
multitude aromas coming<br />
from the open front kitchen.<br />
Then, surrounded by leaf<br />
plants, and predominantly<br />
white walls, the customer is<br />
struck by this venue’s calm<br />
and elegance. Although the<br />
dining experience at la Badiane<br />
is about the food, great<br />
attention is also paid to the<br />
ambience so you can enjoy<br />
every aspect of your meal.<br />
Voted one of Miele Guide’s<br />
Top 500 Restaurants in Asia.<br />
LA SALSA<br />
IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN<br />
5 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung,<br />
Tel: (04) 3995 0950<br />
lasalsa-hanoi.com<br />
A small but eternally popular<br />
Spanish-themed café and bar<br />
with an extensive list of reliable<br />
cuisine. Tapas are available,<br />
as well as full courses<br />
such as veal, and duck with<br />
currant sauce. Known for its<br />
good, European-style coffee<br />
and first-floor terrace area<br />
with views over the cathedral.<br />
LA VERTICALE<br />
CONTEMPORARY FRENCH<br />
19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung,<br />
Tel: (04) 3944 6317<br />
verticale-hanoi.com<br />
Situated in an art-deco villa,<br />
this establishment is run by<br />
the most famous French chef<br />
in the country. With modestly<br />
priced set lunches and subtle<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese touches on the<br />
dishes, the up market establishment<br />
lures in its high class<br />
customers with quality <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese-French<br />
fusion cuisine.<br />
LE BEAULIEU<br />
CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET<br />
Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15<br />
Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Tel: (04) 3826 6919<br />
The Metropole’s signature<br />
restaurant serving up both<br />
classic and contemporary<br />
French fare. Buffet options<br />
mix with an a la carte menu<br />
and an ambience that could<br />
be straight out of Paris.<br />
LINGUINI FINI<br />
ITALIAN-AMERICAN<br />
36-38 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:<br />
(04) 3266 8968<br />
linguinifini.com/en/hanoi<br />
With branches in Hong Kong<br />
and Manilla, the contemporary<br />
Italian-American Linguini<br />
Fini pulls no punches with<br />
its first outlet in <strong>Vietnam</strong>.<br />
Sleek modern décor, high<br />
quality cuisine, home-made<br />
pasta, reasonable prices and<br />
dishes cooked up with the<br />
freshest ingredients available<br />
are part of the deal, as are<br />
some damn fine pizzas.<br />
LUNA D’AUTUNNO<br />
CLASSIC ITALIAN<br />
27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823<br />
7338<br />
lunadautunno.vn<br />
This old-favourite Italian<br />
uses traditional wood ovens<br />
to prepare some of the city’s<br />
finest pizzas, which range<br />
from VND100,000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit.<br />
Set inside a large, thoughtful<br />
space seasoned chefs also<br />
make fresh pastas, soups<br />
and cheeses. Has regular<br />
live music and a great Italian<br />
wine list.<br />
MAY MAN CHINESE<br />
CUISINE<br />
PAN-CHINESE<br />
Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha,<br />
Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333<br />
fortuna.vn<br />
Elegant and luxurious, May<br />
Man has long been regarded<br />
as one of the best Chinese<br />
restaurants in Hanoi. Showcasing<br />
a selection of authentic<br />
Chinese fare together with<br />
dim sum, May Man boasts<br />
extensive a la carte menus,<br />
dim sum menus and set<br />
menus. Reservations recommended.<br />
MEDITERRANEO<br />
PAN-ITALIAN<br />
23 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Tel: (04) 3826 6288<br />
This long-running, cozy restaurant<br />
near the cathedral<br />
serves all the traditional<br />
Italian fare you could need<br />
— homemade mozzarella<br />
and fresh pasta, spinach<br />
and ricotta ravioli, cold cut<br />
boards, soups, salads and<br />
fish. Boasts an extensive<br />
wine list and a traditional<br />
wood fire oven.<br />
MING PALACE<br />
PAN-CHINESE<br />
Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien,<br />
Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888<br />
A fine dining destination<br />
at the Sofitel Plaza serving<br />
Cantonese and pan-Chinese<br />
cuisine in a sleek modern<br />
setting with private dining<br />
rooms. With more than 80<br />
dim sum selections available<br />
along with Chinese entrees,<br />
Ming’s is an ideal eatery for<br />
those hungry for higher end<br />
Chinese fare.<br />
MILLENIUM-CAFÉ DES<br />
ARTS<br />
PAN-FRENCH<br />
11 Hang Hanh, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Tel: (04) 3828 7207<br />
cafe-des-arts.com<br />
A contemporary and chic<br />
three-storey restaurant with<br />
a terrace and views over one<br />
of Hanoi’s best-known alleys.<br />
Serves up quality French cuisine<br />
such as: snails, foie gras,<br />
lobster, scallops, chateaubriand<br />
and tournedos Rossini.<br />
Does an excellent set menu<br />
and also has a daily specials<br />
board.<br />
MOOSE AND ROO<br />
CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN<br />
RESTAURANT<br />
42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Tel:(04) 3200 1289<br />
Contemporary Australian<br />
and Canadian comfort food<br />
in a pleasant setting together<br />
with a nice bar area.<br />
Best known for their Scotch<br />
egg, poutine and burgers.<br />
Clever changing imagery on<br />
the walls.<br />
MOOSE AND ROO<br />
SMOKEHOUSE<br />
AMERICAN GRILL<br />
The American Club, 19-21<br />
Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Tel: (04) 3939 2470<br />
mooseandroo.com<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 157
MEDICAL BUFF<br />
DENGUE SUCKS<br />
BY DR. BRIAN MCNAULL<br />
A<br />
couple travelling through Asia<br />
(Thailand, Laos, Cambodia)<br />
came to see me a few weeks<br />
ago. The 28-year-old Caucasian<br />
female of the couple had been in Hanoi<br />
for the last five days. She had been<br />
suffering with sore bones and was feeling<br />
she may have overdone it in Thailand<br />
where they had been trekking, but the<br />
pain was getting worse.<br />
But she had woken that morning with a<br />
bad headache and some eye pain. “It felt<br />
like a hangover,” was her first thought, but<br />
she’d had an early night. What concerned<br />
her was that when she woke she was really<br />
hot, and now was shivering. Over the<br />
previous few hours a rash had started to<br />
develop between her fingers.<br />
I’ve seen this many times — patient<br />
arrives with a list of varied symptoms, and<br />
I find it’s really important to talk about date<br />
of illness onset, travel history, the start of<br />
symptoms and vaccination history. This is<br />
the season for dengue fever, not to mention<br />
zika and chikungunya. And to make it<br />
more challenging, patients are diagnosing<br />
themselves before arriving.<br />
A blood sample was taken and<br />
immediately sent to the lab for analysis<br />
— it would take 30 minutes to get the<br />
results. This is a lot quicker than waiting<br />
for the symptoms of dengue to appear,<br />
which can take three to 15 days after the<br />
mosquito bite transfers a virus to you. A<br />
range of symptoms can develop; fever<br />
and chills, painful muscles, bone and joint<br />
aches combined with headaches and retroorbital<br />
(behind the eye) pain. Symptoms<br />
in mild cases can last from four to seven<br />
days and then disappear, and in many<br />
cases dengue’s parting gesture is a painful<br />
itchy rash.<br />
We had confirmation within an hour —<br />
dengue fever. As I’ve already mentioned,<br />
the symptoms of dengue fever make it<br />
easy to diagnose. The symptoms include<br />
mild bleeding in the nose and gums, and<br />
easy bruising can occur due to depressed<br />
platelet count and, in severe cases,<br />
damage to lymph and blood vessels,<br />
enlargement of the liver and failure of<br />
the circulatory system which may lead to<br />
shock, and death.<br />
Treatment<br />
Dengue is caused by a virus — there are no<br />
medicines or antibiotics which can be used<br />
as a cure. For my patient I immediately<br />
recommended bed rest, paracetamol and<br />
fluids. She spent two nights with us and<br />
started to feel better after the first day. We<br />
kept on monitoring her, but after rest she<br />
felt better, although still weak. She carried<br />
on with her holiday going slowly and<br />
being more careful. There is no real medical<br />
treatment for dengue fever other than rest<br />
and hydration, but sometimes natural<br />
remedies can help, so we recommend<br />
papaya fruit which is rumoured to increase<br />
blood platelets faster than normal.<br />
Prevention<br />
There is no vaccine to prevent dengue<br />
fever. The best way to avoid the disease is<br />
to prevent bites by infected mosquitoes,<br />
particularly if you are living in or<br />
traveling in wet, tropical areas. This<br />
involves protecting yourself and covering<br />
up when possible. Fortunately, dengue<br />
doesn’t spread from person to person<br />
but you need to prevent the disease by<br />
watching your surroundings; empty or<br />
drain any standing water (pots) since the<br />
mosquitoes breed there. Wear protective<br />
clothing.<br />
The dengue mosquito likes to attack<br />
at dawn and dusk, and favourite spots<br />
are below the elbow and knee. They<br />
are generally active between August<br />
and October, but they tend not to breed<br />
during the cold times of the year. If you<br />
want, you can turn to natural repellents<br />
like lemon eucalyptus oil and lavender<br />
oil, which may give you some protection.<br />
There are also a number of plants that<br />
have mosquito-repellent properties<br />
like citronella, catnip and lavender.<br />
Place them around your house to keep<br />
mosquitoes away. Even herbs like garlic,<br />
lemongrass, basil, peppermint and<br />
rosemary may help.<br />
Dr. Brian McNaull is a hepatology<br />
specialist, medical director and a specialist<br />
in tropical medicine. He works at Family<br />
Medical Practice Hanoi. For more info click<br />
on vietnammedicalpractice.com<br />
158 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
Hanoi<br />
On the Town<br />
There’s a reason for Smokehouse’s<br />
popularity — the excellent,<br />
on-site smoked meats<br />
together with all the typical,<br />
American-style sides. Set in<br />
the American Club, dining<br />
is both indoors and out, and<br />
comes with the best bourbon<br />
selection in town.<br />
MOTO-SAN<br />
UBER NOODLES<br />
4 Ly Dao Thanh, HoanKiem<br />
Ramen, stewed pork banh<br />
my, ha cao dumplings and<br />
banh my trung, all served<br />
up in an eclectic, Berlinesque<br />
setting a stone’s throw from<br />
the Opera House. Add in<br />
a beer, a G and T or a coffee,<br />
and this is the perfect<br />
munchie-satisfying joint to<br />
keep you going at any time<br />
of the day.<br />
NAMASTE HANOI<br />
PAN-INDIAN<br />
46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi,<br />
Tel: (04) 3935 2400<br />
namastehanoi.com<br />
The well-loved Namaste specialises<br />
in dishes from both<br />
northern and southern India<br />
— using Halal meat throughout.<br />
Hosted by the gregarious<br />
Gopi, a meal will cost<br />
you between VND150,000<br />
and VND300,000 and everything<br />
is there, from curries<br />
and breads to soups and<br />
desserts.<br />
NAN N KABAB<br />
49 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,<br />
Tel: 0922 087799<br />
Specialising in Pakistani<br />
cuisine and of course nan<br />
bread and kebabs, this semioutdoor,<br />
bamboo tabled, laid<br />
back eatery also sells fare<br />
from Afganistan and India. In<br />
a sentence? Curry, but not as<br />
you know it.<br />
NINETEEN 11<br />
INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN<br />
The Opera House, 1 Trang<br />
Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)<br />
3933 4801<br />
nineteen11.com.vn<br />
Named after the completion<br />
date of the Hanoi Opera<br />
House, this upscale yet casual<br />
restaurant maintains an<br />
ambience of elegance, luxury<br />
and mystery. The cuisine<br />
mixes international fare with<br />
twists on <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese cuisine<br />
and comes complete with a<br />
formidable wine list and an<br />
in-house sommelier.<br />
OLD HANOI<br />
GOURMET VIETNAMESE<br />
4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Tel: (04) 3747 8337<br />
hanoixua.vn/en<br />
Gordon Ramsay once filmed<br />
a show at this restaurant in<br />
a renovated French villa and<br />
now the ribs carry his namesake.<br />
But it’s the twist on old<br />
world favourites, think fried<br />
snail spring rolls and miniature<br />
vegetarian banh xeo, all<br />
in a casually elegant setting<br />
that make this spot near the<br />
train tracks a standout.<br />
PANE E VINO<br />
PAN-ITALIAN<br />
3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan<br />
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080<br />
facebook.com/panevinoHN<br />
Just a stroll away from the<br />
Hanoi Opera House, Pane e<br />
Vino serves up authentic Italian<br />
food and has done for as<br />
long as anyone can remember.<br />
Renowned for the highly<br />
rated, oven fresh pizzas and<br />
large variety of pasta and<br />
salad dishes — look forward<br />
to fine food done well at<br />
this eatery that has the feel<br />
of Europe. Huge wine lists,<br />
friendly staff and a loveable<br />
owner.<br />
PIZZA 4P’S<br />
JAPANESE PIZZA JOINT<br />
24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Tel: 01208 034444<br />
pizza4ps.com<br />
Famed for its home-made<br />
mozzarella and Japaneseinspired<br />
pizzas that break all<br />
the rules, the Hanoi outlet of<br />
Pizza 4P’s is as popular as its<br />
Saigon branch, a restaurant<br />
that has been greeted by<br />
accolades by all asunder. All<br />
pizzas are cooked in a woodfired<br />
oven and use fresh, local<br />
ingredients.<br />
POTS ‘N PANS<br />
CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE<br />
57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung,<br />
Tel: (04) 3944 0204<br />
potsnpans.vn<br />
Brought to you by a group of<br />
former disadvantaged youth<br />
from Hanoi’s own KOTO, this<br />
unique fine dining restaurant,<br />
bar and lounge blends<br />
the old with the new. <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
fusion cuisine, like<br />
profiteroles with green tea<br />
and café fillings, a private<br />
chef’s table with a kitchen<br />
view, and an extensive wine<br />
list combined with modern<br />
formal styling bring a unique<br />
experience to Hanoi.<br />
SAINT HONORE<br />
BOULANGERIE / BISTRO<br />
5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)<br />
3933 2355<br />
sainthonore.com.vn<br />
This bakery and Frenchstyle<br />
bistro is best visited<br />
in the morning when that<br />
Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma<br />
of bread, croissants and<br />
patisseries hits you as you<br />
walk through the door. The<br />
downstairs space is split into<br />
the bakery on one side with<br />
a small non-smoking dining<br />
space on the other. The upstairs<br />
lounge area has standard<br />
tables as well as sofa<br />
seating. Simple French and<br />
international fare is served<br />
at meal times.<br />
THE CART<br />
SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ<br />
8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam<br />
Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938<br />
2513<br />
thecartfood.com<br />
Small cozy café and sandwich<br />
bar hidden away in<br />
Nghi Tam Village. Serves and<br />
delivers tasty baguettes,<br />
homemade juices, quiches,<br />
pies, muffins and cakes. The<br />
delivery service is quick and<br />
reliable, which makes this<br />
lunchtime favourite ideal<br />
for when you need to eat at<br />
the desk.<br />
THE KAFE<br />
CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE<br />
18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem,<br />
Tel: (04) 3747 6245<br />
thekafe.vn<br />
Spacious, casual, energetic<br />
and beautifully designed,<br />
The KAfe serves up unfussy<br />
comfort food that aims to<br />
satisfy the modern urban<br />
diner. Preparing fresh food<br />
and drinks that show respect<br />
to natural ingredients<br />
and flavours from around the<br />
globe, this café-cum-restaurant<br />
is a popular choice for<br />
Hanoi’s metrosexual community.<br />
WANNAWAFFLE<br />
WAFFLES<br />
27 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan<br />
Kiem; 138 Trieu Viet Vuong,<br />
Hai Ba Trung; Unit 108, Indochina<br />
Plaza, 241 Xuan Thuy,<br />
Cau Giay<br />
facebook.com/wannawaffle<br />
Waffles, but not as you know<br />
it. Here it’s about taking this<br />
humble dish and recreating<br />
it in a contemporary environment<br />
in as many ways as is<br />
humanly possible. Ever had<br />
a matcha waffle? What about<br />
a waffle stuffed with cream<br />
cheese and smoked salmon?<br />
How about a banoffee pie or<br />
a pizza waffle? Wannawaffle<br />
serves up all these creations<br />
and much more.<br />
WRAP & ROLL<br />
5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza,<br />
24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem<br />
Tel: (04) 3824 3718<br />
wrap-roll.com<br />
The lime green walls and<br />
bright pastel colours of Wrap<br />
‘n Roll are just part of the<br />
theme of this homegrown,<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese brand which is<br />
all about spring rolls of all<br />
types, and healthy, Hue-influenced<br />
cuisine. Now with<br />
two restaurants in Hanoi —<br />
the second in Royal City.<br />
ZENITH VEGETARIAN RES-<br />
TAURANT<br />
HOLISTIC VEGETARIAN<br />
247Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904<br />
356561<br />
zenithyogavietnam.com/<br />
zenith-cafe<br />
A vegetarian and vegan café<br />
connected to Zenith Yoga<br />
that respects yoga philosophy.<br />
Simple living, mindful<br />
thinking and 100 percent<br />
natural ingredients, all the<br />
food here is served up without<br />
additional additives or<br />
MSG and using only fresh<br />
seasonal products. All dishes<br />
are made in house.<br />
STREETFOOD<br />
3 CHI EM<br />
PHO GA / BUN BO NAM BO / COM<br />
18 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho<br />
BANH CUON HANG GA<br />
BANH CUON<br />
14 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem<br />
BANH DA TRON<br />
BANH DA TRON<br />
6 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho<br />
BANH MI 25<br />
STREETSIDE BANH MI<br />
25 Hang Ca, Hoan Kiem<br />
BIT TET NGON SO 5<br />
VIETNAMESE BEEFSTEAK<br />
20A Hoe Nhai, Ba Dinh<br />
BUN BO NAM BO<br />
BUN BO NAM BO<br />
67 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem<br />
BUN CHA DAC KIM<br />
BUN CHA<br />
1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem;<br />
67 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem<br />
KCC (KIEN CAN COOK)<br />
COM RANG DUA BO<br />
57 Quoc Tu Giam, Dong Da<br />
MIEN TRON HANH<br />
MIXED GLASS NOODLES<br />
7B Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem<br />
MY VAN THAN<br />
WONTON NOODLES<br />
54 Hang Chieu, Hoan Kiem<br />
PHO BO CU CHIEU<br />
PHO BO<br />
48 Hang Dong, Hoan Kiem<br />
PHO CUON HUNG BEN<br />
PHO CUON<br />
26 Nguyen Khac Hieu,<br />
Ba Dinh<br />
PHO GA BA LAM<br />
PHO GA<br />
7 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem<br />
PHO GA HANG DIEU<br />
PHO GA<br />
1 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem<br />
PHO GIA TRUYEN BAT<br />
DAN<br />
PHO BO<br />
49 Bat Dan, Hoan Kiem<br />
PHO LY QUOC SU<br />
PHO BO<br />
10 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem<br />
PHO THIN LO DUC<br />
SAUTEED BEEF PHO<br />
13 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung<br />
PHO TRON<br />
MIXED PHO<br />
5 Phu Doan, Hoan Kiem; 47<br />
Ma May, Hoan Kiem; 2 Hang<br />
Hom, Hoan Kiem; 6 Luong<br />
Van Can, Hoan Kiem<br />
PHO TU LUN<br />
PHO BO<br />
23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem<br />
XOI HANG HOM<br />
STICKY RICE<br />
44 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 159
A WORLD OF GOOD<br />
LIFE OF ILLUSION<br />
BY DANA MCNAIRN<br />
“Charity is everyday people helping one another.”<br />
During the summer, silly season<br />
media outlets tend to report on<br />
the goofy or frivolous simply<br />
because most law courts and<br />
government administrations are not<br />
in session and everyone’s on holiday.<br />
There’s usually just no big (read:<br />
important) news.<br />
But the unrelenting grimness of the news<br />
lately makes me wish government antics<br />
were indeed on holiday indefinitely.<br />
We need other things to focus on, now.<br />
Enter International Day of Charity (IDC)<br />
held every Sep. 5. IDC is a UN initiative,<br />
coinciding with the anniversary of the death<br />
of Mother Teresa, the Kolkata-based nun<br />
awarded the 1979 Nobel Peace Prize for<br />
her work alleviating poverty. Now I’m not<br />
holding up the IDC like a twinkly bit of tinsel<br />
to distract you for a day of feeling good (or<br />
at least slightly less lousy about many of the<br />
world’s current affairs). I’m suggesting acting<br />
charitably for much longer than that.<br />
Solidarity<br />
The UN urges us to act generously because<br />
there is so much wretchedness in the<br />
world. Its development officers say that<br />
“expressions of solidarity help us in our<br />
shared quest to live together in harmony<br />
and build a peaceful and sustainable future<br />
for all.”<br />
But kindness and empathy is really hard<br />
in the face of time, distance and a lack of<br />
ideas or money.<br />
What might those ‘expressions of<br />
solidarity’ look like? Well, for starters,<br />
charity is not just about the rich giving to the<br />
poor or member governments sending bags<br />
of cash to the UN. Development workers are<br />
not all employed in poor countries. (Did you<br />
know that Save the Children has projects in<br />
First Nations communities in Canada?) Nor<br />
are all humanitarian workers only working<br />
in far-flung war and disaster zones. They are<br />
also responding to immediate crisis needs in<br />
urban food banks.<br />
Charity is everyday people helping one<br />
another. Charity is us, all of us. It isn’t just<br />
those big-name NGOs dashing around in<br />
their white Land Cruisers coordinating joint<br />
appeals. It’s neighbours helping neighbours<br />
or kids helping kids. Think block parties<br />
and community centres, or the water jugs<br />
you see on the sidewalks around town and<br />
the <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese youth who quietly hand<br />
out loaves of bread at bus stations or fill<br />
neighbourhood bread boxes.<br />
Helping each other creates social bonding<br />
and solidarity, strengthens the vibrant fabric<br />
of our communities and ultimately makes<br />
us all more resilient. The UN believes this<br />
charitable impulse resides in every single<br />
human being. I believe that too.<br />
Overwhelm<br />
This pro-people mindset strikes back at<br />
the criminal idiocy of those who — in<br />
the face of human suffering — wish to<br />
close our borders, abandon refugees,<br />
shoot unarmed civilians, set off bombs<br />
and ignore abuse in detention centres.<br />
Where is all this fear coming from that<br />
has pushed so many to such extremes<br />
of hysteria and intolerance? It’s because<br />
we’ve stopped talking to one another<br />
and are too easily goaded into seeing the<br />
world as ‘us versus them’.<br />
We accept the simplicity of this<br />
Manichean darkness because people<br />
are overwhelmed with ugly news. But<br />
switching off isn’t the answer. You cannot<br />
ignore your own self-humanity. You’re not<br />
hopeless and neither are those caught up in<br />
circumstances they didn’t choose. But you<br />
do have a choice… the choice is acting on<br />
our common and shared humanity.<br />
A friend sent me this quote. It’s<br />
misattributed to Anne Frank, but regardless<br />
of who said it, it’s pretty much perfect.<br />
“How wonderful it is that nobody need<br />
wait a single moment before starting to<br />
improve the world.”<br />
Dana McNairn is the CEO of KOTO, an<br />
award-winning non-profit social enterprise<br />
and vocational training programme for at-risk<br />
youth<br />
160 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
BOOK BUFF<br />
BOOKS FOR THE SUMMER<br />
BY TRUONG HOANG<br />
full heat of the ripening<br />
season was upon us like a<br />
millstone, crushing the juice<br />
“The<br />
out of everyone.”<br />
This description of a summer day in<br />
1,000 BCE in a newly united Israel could<br />
easily be applied to Hanoi’s recent,<br />
oppressive sweltering heat.<br />
One of our readers spent much of<br />
those juice-crushing months in cool<br />
places having historical adventures with<br />
Geraldine Brooks, the author of the above<br />
statement.<br />
She began with Brooks’ 2015 novel The<br />
Secret Chord which recounts the life of the<br />
biblical King David through the eyes of<br />
his personal prophet Natan. In his middle<br />
age, David sets Natan the task of recording<br />
his life, words, songs and deeds from<br />
sheep herder to supreme King with no air<br />
brushing of warts or other blemishes.<br />
As Brooks points out, David is the first<br />
man in literature whose story was told<br />
from early childhood to extreme old age.<br />
However, outside the Bible, there is little<br />
trace of him. Brooks is convinced that such<br />
a man must have actually existed “for no<br />
people would invent such a flawed figure<br />
for a national hero.”<br />
It’s a ripping, hard-to-put-down yarn<br />
full of full-blooded and very gory battles<br />
and skirmishes. It recounts David’s bloodspattered<br />
life from his childhood years as<br />
a lion killing sheep herder; through his<br />
adolescent encounter with Goliath; his<br />
enmity with King Shaul (throughout the<br />
novel the author uses personal and place<br />
names in their transliteration from the<br />
Hebrew of the Tanakh); into and out of<br />
his love affairs with his several wives and<br />
one beloved male; his anointing as the<br />
rightful king of Israel by Shmuel- Samuel;<br />
the foundation of Jerusalem or Ir David;<br />
until his death at 70, when he appoints his<br />
youngest son Schlomo-Solomon to be his<br />
heir after condoning the murders of other<br />
young males who may have had a claim to<br />
the throne.<br />
Reputedly David was a talented harpist<br />
and the novel’s title is drawn from that<br />
instrument.<br />
After a couple of days and late nights<br />
riveted to this novel our reader decided to<br />
anoint her summer by reading the other<br />
five Brooks novels. She raced through the<br />
Pulitzer Prize-winning March and decided<br />
that Year of Wonders was her personal<br />
favourite. As I write this, she’s into Brooks’<br />
non-fiction output and enjoying Nine<br />
Parts of Desire: The Hidden World of Islamic<br />
Women.<br />
A Different David<br />
Another reader half-heartedly started<br />
Roger Williams’ novel Lunch with Elizabeth<br />
David and found herself so intrigued<br />
that she followed up immediately with<br />
nosedives into David’s several cookbooks<br />
which, after World War Two, saved the<br />
British from a diet of bland, grey stodge, by<br />
introducing them to the delights of French<br />
and Mediterranean cuisine. David was an<br />
intriguing person who eventually ended up<br />
living as a hermit in her kitchen. She insisted<br />
that she know the exact provenance of any<br />
foodstuffs that she used in her cooking.<br />
However, in Williams’ novel we only<br />
meet Elizabeth three brief times. The first is<br />
in 1940 in a field near Antibes where, as a<br />
young woman, she is having a picnic lunch<br />
with a raconteur and learning about the<br />
delights of fresh herbs, with the advancing<br />
German army only days away.<br />
The second is on Capri in 1951 where the<br />
ailing raconteur invites the now well-known<br />
food researcher to a lunch with several<br />
luminaries of the day including novelist<br />
Graham Greene. The last is in the 1990s, not<br />
long before her death, when she invites a<br />
young female food caterer to stay for a simple<br />
meal in her crowded basement refuge.<br />
The first half of the novel revolves<br />
around the southern European travels of<br />
real-life essayist, travel writer, novelist<br />
and raconteur, Norman Douglas from<br />
1910 to 1951. Throughout the author<br />
evokes a sunny Mediterranean atmosphere<br />
fragrant with rosemary and olive oil.<br />
Douglas, however, was a paedophile who<br />
encouraged working-class, adolescent<br />
males to travel with him as ‘nephews’ and<br />
much of the absorbing novel is told through<br />
the eyes of one of them, Eric Walton, who<br />
journeys with him through Calabria, pre-<br />
World War I.<br />
The question at the novel’s centre asks<br />
if Douglas was “a monster, the paedophile<br />
of the century” or was he as Eric states, a<br />
great and talented man who led him into a<br />
“warm and sensuous world of adventure<br />
and light?” Douglas did spend a brief<br />
time in jail because of his dalliances with<br />
adolescents.<br />
Douglas inscribed a novel to David<br />
with his motto: “Always do as you please<br />
and send everybody to hell, and take the<br />
consequences.”<br />
Eric becomes a game warden in<br />
Tanganyika, marries a German and has<br />
to give his house boys a vacation when<br />
Douglas visits in his greying years.<br />
The shorter, second half of the novel is<br />
set in London in the latter part of the last<br />
century and is related through the point of<br />
view of the young caterer who is a David<br />
enthusiast and is married to an Italian<br />
fishmonger who is implied to be Douglas’<br />
grandson. And as convoluted as all that<br />
sounds, the section is full of savoury prose.<br />
Truong is an avid reader and runs Bookworm<br />
(44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Hanoi). For more<br />
information on go to bookwormhanoi.com<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 161
Hanoi<br />
Map<br />
19 - 12 E4<br />
An Duong<br />
B4<br />
An Thanh 1<br />
B3<br />
An Trach<br />
D3<br />
An Xa<br />
C4<br />
Au Co<br />
A3<br />
Au Trieu<br />
D4<br />
Ba Trieu<br />
E4<br />
Bach Dang<br />
D5, E5<br />
Bach Dang<br />
E5<br />
Bao Linh<br />
D5<br />
Bat Su<br />
D4<br />
Ben Nhat Ban<br />
A2, B2<br />
Bich Cau<br />
D3<br />
Cao Ba Quat<br />
D4, D3<br />
Cao Nam<br />
D2<br />
Cat Linh<br />
D3<br />
Cau Dat<br />
E5<br />
Cau Giay<br />
D1<br />
Cau Go<br />
D5, D4<br />
Chau Long<br />
C4<br />
Chua Lang<br />
E1<br />
Chua Mot Cot<br />
D3<br />
Chuong Duong Do<br />
D5<br />
Co Tam<br />
E5<br />
Co Xa<br />
C4<br />
Cua Bac<br />
C4<br />
Cua Nam<br />
D4<br />
Da Tuong<br />
E4<br />
Dang Dung<br />
C4<br />
Dang Tat<br />
C3<br />
Dang Thai Mai<br />
B2<br />
Dang Thai Than<br />
E5<br />
Dang Tran Con<br />
D3<br />
Dao Tan<br />
D1<br />
Dien Bien Phu<br />
D4, D3<br />
Dinh Cong<br />
D2<br />
Dinh Le<br />
D5<br />
Dinh Liet<br />
D4<br />
Dinh Tien Hoang D5, D4<br />
Doan Thi Diem<br />
D3<br />
Doc Lan<br />
A5<br />
Doc Lap<br />
D3<br />
Doi Can<br />
D3, D2<br />
Dong Quan<br />
C1<br />
Dong Xuan<br />
C4, D4<br />
Duong Buoi<br />
D1, C1<br />
Duong Quan Ham<br />
D1<br />
Duong Thanh<br />
D4<br />
Gam Cau<br />
C4<br />
Gia Ngu<br />
D5, D4<br />
Giang Van Minh<br />
D3<br />
GianG Vo<br />
D3, D2<br />
Hai Ba Trung D4, E4, E5<br />
Ham Long<br />
E4<br />
Ham Tu Quan<br />
D5<br />
Hang Can<br />
D4<br />
Hang Bac<br />
D4<br />
Hang Bai<br />
E4, E5<br />
Hang Be<br />
D5<br />
Hang Bong<br />
D4<br />
Hang Bun<br />
C4<br />
Hang Buom<br />
D4<br />
Hang Chieu<br />
D4<br />
Hang Cot<br />
C4<br />
Hang Da<br />
D4<br />
Hang Dao<br />
D4<br />
Hang Dau<br />
C4, D5<br />
Hang Dieu<br />
D4<br />
Hang Dong<br />
D4<br />
Hang Duong<br />
D4<br />
Hang Ga<br />
D4<br />
Hang Gai<br />
D4<br />
Hang Khoai<br />
C4<br />
Hang Luoc<br />
C4, D4<br />
Hang Ma<br />
D4<br />
Hang Nam<br />
D5<br />
Hang Ngang<br />
D4<br />
Hang Non<br />
D4<br />
Hang Than<br />
C4<br />
Hang Thung<br />
D5<br />
Hang Tre<br />
D5<br />
Hang Trong<br />
Hang Vai<br />
Hang Voi<br />
Hao Nam<br />
Hoa Lo<br />
Hoa Nam<br />
Hoang Dieu<br />
Hoang Hoa Tham<br />
Hoang Quoc Viet<br />
Hoang Van Thu<br />
Hoe Nhai<br />
Hung Vuong<br />
Khuc Hao<br />
Kim Ma<br />
Kim Ma Thuong<br />
La Thanh<br />
Lac Long Quan<br />
Lang Ha<br />
Le Duan<br />
Le Hong Phong<br />
Le Lai<br />
Le Phung Hieu<br />
Le Thach<br />
Le Thai To<br />
Le Thanh Tong<br />
Lieu Giai<br />
Linh Lang<br />
Lo Su<br />
Luong Van Can<br />
Ly Nam De<br />
Ly Quoc Su<br />
Ly Thuong Kiet<br />
Ly Van Phuc<br />
Ma May<br />
Nam Ngu<br />
Nghi Tam<br />
Nghia Dung<br />
Ngo Tram<br />
Ngo Van So<br />
Ngoc Ha<br />
Ngoc Khanh<br />
Ngoc Thuy<br />
Nguyen Bieu<br />
Nguyen Canh Chan<br />
Nguyen Chi Thanh<br />
Nguyen Cong Hoan<br />
Nguyen Dinh Hoan<br />
Nguyen Hoang Ton<br />
Nguyen Hong<br />
Nguyen Khac Nhu<br />
Nguyen Khanh Toan<br />
Nguyen Khiet<br />
Nguyen Khuyen<br />
Nguyen Thai Hoc<br />
Nguyen Tri Phuong<br />
Nguyen Tu Gian<br />
Nguyen Van Ngoc<br />
Nha Chung<br />
Nha Tho<br />
Nhat Chieu<br />
Nui Truc<br />
Nuoc Phan Lan<br />
Ong Ich Khiem<br />
D4<br />
D4<br />
D5<br />
D3, E2<br />
E4<br />
E3<br />
D3<br />
C1, C2, C3<br />
C1<br />
C3<br />
C4<br />
C3<br />
D3<br />
D2, D1<br />
D1<br />
E3, E2, E1, D1<br />
A1, B1<br />
E2<br />
D4, E4<br />
D3<br />
D5<br />
D5<br />
D5<br />
D4<br />
E5<br />
D2<br />
D1<br />
D5<br />
D4<br />
D4<br />
D4<br />
E4, E5<br />
D3<br />
D5<br />
D4<br />
B3<br />
C4<br />
D4<br />
E4<br />
C3, D3<br />
D2<br />
B5<br />
C4<br />
C3<br />
D1, E1<br />
D2<br />
C1<br />
A1<br />
E1<br />
C4<br />
D1<br />
D5<br />
D4, D3<br />
D4, D3<br />
D4<br />
C5<br />
D1<br />
D4<br />
D4<br />
A1<br />
D2<br />
A3<br />
D3<br />
BAMBOO<br />
Hang Vai D4<br />
BEDDINGS<br />
Hang Dieu D4<br />
CERAMICS<br />
Hang Khoai C4<br />
COBBERS<br />
Hang Dong D4<br />
COMPUTERS<br />
Ly Nam De D4<br />
COOKING INGREDIENTS<br />
Tay Ho Weekend Market A2<br />
CRAFTS<br />
Hang Trong D4<br />
EVERYTHING<br />
Dong Xuan Market C4<br />
FASHION STORES<br />
Hang Dao D4<br />
FLOWERS<br />
Quang An Market A3<br />
LACQUERS<br />
Can Go D4, D5<br />
LIQUORS<br />
Nha Tho D4<br />
162 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com<br />
Pham Hong Thai<br />
Pham Huy Thong<br />
Pham Su Manh<br />
Phan Boi Chau<br />
Phan Dinh Phung<br />
Phan Huy Chu<br />
Phan Ke Binh<br />
Pho Duc Chinh<br />
Phuc Tan<br />
Phuc Xa<br />
Phung Chi Kien<br />
Phung Hung<br />
Quan Hoa<br />
Quan Su<br />
Quan Thanh<br />
Quang An<br />
Quang Ba<br />
Quang Trung<br />
Quoc Tu Giam<br />
So 1<br />
So 9<br />
Son Tay<br />
Ta Hien<br />
Tan Ap<br />
Tay Ho<br />
Thanh Cong<br />
Thanh Nien<br />
Tho Nhuom<br />
Thuoc Bac<br />
Thuy Khue<br />
To Ngoc Van<br />
Ton Duc Thang<br />
Tong Dan<br />
Tong Duy Tan<br />
Tran Binh Trong<br />
Tran Hung Dao<br />
Tran Huy Lieu<br />
Tran Khanh Du<br />
Tran Nguyen Han<br />
Tran Phu<br />
Tran Quang Khai<br />
Tran Quoc Toan<br />
Tran Vu<br />
Trang Thi<br />
Trang Tien<br />
Trich Sai<br />
Trinh Hoai Duc<br />
Truc Bach<br />
Tu Hoa Cong Chua<br />
Van Bao<br />
Van Cao<br />
Van Mieu<br />
Van Phuc<br />
Ve Ho<br />
Ven Ho<br />
Vong Ha<br />
Vong Thi<br />
Vu Thanh<br />
Xuan Dieu<br />
Xuan La<br />
Yen Ninh<br />
Yen Phu<br />
Yet Kieu<br />
MECHANICS<br />
Hang Chao D3<br />
MOBILE PHONES<br />
Dang Dung C4<br />
PLANTS<br />
Hoang Hoa Tham C1, C2<br />
SECONDHAND SHOES<br />
Nguyen Khanh Toan D1<br />
SILKS<br />
Hang Gai D4<br />
SILVERS<br />
Hang Bac D4<br />
SPORTSWEAR<br />
Hang Dau D5<br />
STATIONERY<br />
Hang Can D4<br />
SWEETS<br />
Hang Buom D4<br />
TOYS<br />
Luong Van Can D4<br />
WEDDING SERVICES<br />
Hang Than C4<br />
WINTER CLOTHINGS<br />
Hang Da D4<br />
C4<br />
D1<br />
E5<br />
D4, E4<br />
C3, C4<br />
E5<br />
D1<br />
C4<br />
C5, D5<br />
C4<br />
C1<br />
D4<br />
C1, D1<br />
D4, E4<br />
C3<br />
B2<br />
A2<br />
E4<br />
D3<br />
B4<br />
B4<br />
D3<br />
D4<br />
C4<br />
A2<br />
E1, E2<br />
C3<br />
D4, E4<br />
D4<br />
C2, C3<br />
A2<br />
D3, E3<br />
D5<br />
D4<br />
E4<br />
E4, E5<br />
D2<br />
E5<br />
D5<br />
D4, D3<br />
C4, D5<br />
E4<br />
C3<br />
D4<br />
E5<br />
B1, C2<br />
D3<br />
C4<br />
B3<br />
D2<br />
C2<br />
D3<br />
D2<br />
A1<br />
C2, C3<br />
D5<br />
B1<br />
D3, D2<br />
A3<br />
A1<br />
C4<br />
B3, C4<br />
E4<br />
A<br />
B<br />
C<br />
HO<br />
AN<br />
HOANG QUOC VIET<br />
OA<br />
H<br />
Duong Quang Ham<br />
Phung Chi Kien<br />
Nguyen g<br />
e Khanh Toan<br />
D<br />
H<br />
E<br />
H<br />
Quan Hoa<br />
Thuy Le<br />
Park<br />
CAU GIAY<br />
Chua Lang<br />
Nguyen Dinh Hoan<br />
1<br />
Nguyen Hoang Ton<br />
Xuan n La<br />
L<br />
DUONG BUOI<br />
CAU<br />
GIA<br />
NGI NgGI<br />
mGI<br />
AY<br />
CAUng<br />
CAUg CAUua<br />
CAUan<br />
Dong Quan<br />
CAUQu<br />
CAUu<br />
CAUn<br />
CAUQ on<br />
m<br />
TU<br />
LIEM<br />
D<br />
DUONG BUOI<br />
a<br />
L<br />
La<br />
Quan Hoa H<br />
LON<br />
LAC LONG QUAN<br />
Thuy Le<br />
Lake<br />
Ve Ho<br />
Vong Thi<br />
Doi Can<br />
DAO TAN<br />
Linh Lang<br />
KIM MA<br />
LA THANH<br />
Thuy Khue<br />
LAC LONG QUAN<br />
Trich Sai<br />
Vinh Phuc<br />
Nguyen Van Ngoc<br />
Pham Huy Thong<br />
Nhat Chieu<br />
HOANG HOA THAM<br />
Doi Nhan<br />
Phan Ke Binh<br />
NGUYEN CHI THANH<br />
Doc Ngu<br />
Kim Ma Thuong<br />
AN<br />
A<br />
Nguyen Hong<br />
Nha<br />
uo<br />
Trich Sai<br />
LIEU GIAI VAN CAO<br />
Ngoc Khanh<br />
Bus Station<br />
Nguyen Cong Hoan<br />
La Thanh<br />
Thanh Cong<br />
2<br />
Van Bao<br />
Ngoc Khanh<br />
Ven Ho<br />
Doi Can<br />
Van Phuc<br />
Lang Ha<br />
Giang<br />
Vo<br />
Lake<br />
Dam Tr
3 4 5<br />
Du<br />
LE DUAN<br />
Phu Doan<br />
Ma May<br />
Hang Dau<br />
Quang Ba<br />
DOC VAN<br />
Tay Ho Weekend<br />
Market<br />
To<br />
Ngoc Van<br />
AU CO<br />
Quang An<br />
Market<br />
Tay Ho<br />
Xuan Dieu<br />
LONG BIEN<br />
Nuoc Phan Lan<br />
am Tri<br />
Dang T h ai M a i<br />
Quang An<br />
a<br />
TACACACACACoA T AY gY CY HO<br />
TAh<br />
Aua<br />
a<br />
Tu Hoa Aon<br />
Ang<br />
Ag ACh<br />
Ahu<br />
Au Cong Chua<br />
C<br />
h<br />
u<br />
Ngoc Thuy<br />
NGHI TAM<br />
Yen Phu<br />
An Thanh 1<br />
An Duong<br />
Duong<br />
West<br />
Lake<br />
N 78<br />
go<br />
Ngoc Thuy<br />
So 1<br />
So 9<br />
e<br />
Nui Truc<br />
Cao Nam<br />
Thuy Khue<br />
Nui Truc<br />
Tran Huy Lieu<br />
KIM MA<br />
Dinh Cong<br />
Vu Thanh<br />
Hao o N Nam<br />
m<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong> National<br />
Academy of Music<br />
Giang Van Minh<br />
Giang Vo<br />
La Thanh<br />
Ven Ho<br />
Doi Can<br />
Kim Ma<br />
Bus Station<br />
Ho Chi Minh<br />
Museum<br />
HOANG HOA THAM<br />
Ngoc Ha<br />
Cat Linh<br />
An Trach<br />
Ngoc H Ha<br />
Son Tay<br />
Thuy Khue<br />
Bach Thao<br />
Park<br />
Ly Van Phuc<br />
Trinh Hoai Duc<br />
Bich Cau<br />
Doan Thi Diem<br />
Hanoi<br />
Palace<br />
Ho Chi Minh<br />
Mausoleum<br />
BA DINH<br />
DINHC<br />
Ng<br />
N<br />
Ha<br />
H<br />
Dang Tran Con<br />
Ong Ich Khiem<br />
TON DUC THANG<br />
Van Chuong<br />
Lake<br />
Hung Vuong<br />
NGUYEN THAI HOC<br />
Quan Thanh<br />
Temple<br />
Quan Thanh<br />
Doc Lap<br />
Chua Mot Cot<br />
C<br />
Le Hong Phong<br />
Tran Phu<br />
Van Mieu<br />
Quoc Tu Giam<br />
DU<br />
HDONG<br />
HaDONG<br />
DA<br />
N<br />
a<br />
TO<br />
T<br />
UC<br />
U<br />
AN<br />
Hang Chao<br />
Thanh Nien<br />
Truc Bach<br />
Lake<br />
Khuc Hao<br />
Nguyen Canh Chan<br />
Dang Tat<br />
Hoang Van Thu<br />
Chi Lang<br />
Park<br />
Linh Quang<br />
Lake<br />
Tran Vu<br />
Hoang<br />
Dieu<br />
Dien Bien Phu<br />
Phu<br />
Nguyen Bieu<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong> Fine<br />
Arts Museum<br />
Nguyen Khuyen<br />
Truc Bach<br />
Nguyen Tri Phuong<br />
Cao Ba Quat<br />
e<br />
Dang Dung<br />
Hanoi<br />
Train<br />
Station<br />
Pho Duc Chinh<br />
Chau Long<br />
Cua Bac<br />
Tran Phu<br />
Cua Nam<br />
Cua Nam<br />
Market<br />
Nam Ngu<br />
YEN PHU<br />
Yen Ninh<br />
Nguyen Thai Hoc<br />
Yet Kieu<br />
Tong Duy Tan<br />
Phan Boi Chau<br />
Nguyen Khac Nhu<br />
Pham Hong Thai<br />
PHAN DINH PHUNG<br />
Bo<br />
Ly Nam De<br />
Tho Nhuom<br />
Quan Su<br />
Hang Bun<br />
Phung Hung<br />
Leather<br />
Market<br />
Ly Thuong Kiet<br />
Nghia Dung<br />
Hoe Nhai<br />
Duong Thanh<br />
Ngo Tram<br />
Hang Bong<br />
Hoa Lo<br />
Da Tuong<br />
Hang Non<br />
TRAN HUNG DAO<br />
Tran Quoc Toan<br />
Tran Binh Trong<br />
Co Xa<br />
Quan Su<br />
Hang Cot<br />
Hang Ma<br />
Hang Vai<br />
Hang Da<br />
Tan Ap<br />
Bat Su<br />
Hang Luoc<br />
Thuoc Bac<br />
Hang Dau<br />
Ly Quoc Su<br />
Gam Cau<br />
Hang Bo<br />
Hang Quat<br />
Hang Gai<br />
Hang Trong<br />
Nha Chung<br />
St. Joseph's Cathedral<br />
Trang Thi<br />
Quang<br />
Ong<br />
Og OTr<br />
Or<br />
Trung r<br />
Tho Nhuom<br />
Cha Ca<br />
Au Trieu<br />
Ngo Van So<br />
Hang Duong<br />
Hang Can<br />
Phuc Xa<br />
Long Bien<br />
Market<br />
Long Bien<br />
Bus Station<br />
Hang Ngang<br />
Nha Tho<br />
Long Bien<br />
Train Station<br />
Dong Xuan<br />
Market<br />
Ba Trieu<br />
Hang Chieu<br />
TRAN QUANG Q KHAI<br />
Ta Hien<br />
Dinh Liet<br />
Hang Bac Hang MamHang Tre<br />
Gia Ngug<br />
Cau Go<br />
Dinh Tien Hoang<br />
Phuc Tan<br />
Hang Be<br />
Dinh Tien Hoang<br />
Nguyen Tu Gian<br />
Le Lai<br />
Le Thach<br />
Dinh Le<br />
Trang Tien<br />
T<br />
Bao Linh<br />
Hang Thung<br />
Lo Su<br />
Hai Ba Trung Hai Ba Trung<br />
o<br />
An Xa<br />
Hang Dao<br />
Le Thai To<br />
Hang Can<br />
TRAN HUNG DAO<br />
Nguyen Khiet<br />
Hang Voi<br />
Pham Su Manh<br />
Phuc Tan<br />
Bach Dang<br />
Le Phung Hieu<br />
Trang Tien<br />
Le Thanh Tong<br />
Ham Tu Quan<br />
CAU LONG BIEN<br />
CAU CHUONG DUONG<br />
Chuong Duong Do<br />
Opera<br />
House<br />
Dang Thai Than<br />
TRAN KHANH DU<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 163<br />
Ham Long<br />
Hang Buom<br />
Hoan<br />
Kiem<br />
Lake<br />
Hang B Bai<br />
Ly Thai To<br />
Tran Nguyen Han<br />
Ngo Quyen<br />
a<br />
HgO<br />
OAN aO anO<br />
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KIEMC<br />
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KIEMa KIEMng<br />
KIEMg KIEMTr<br />
KIEMr KIEMan<br />
KIEMn<br />
KIEM<br />
H19<br />
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Hang Than<br />
Hang Ga<br />
Hang Dieu<br />
Co<br />
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Hang Dong<br />
H- 1<br />
Dong Xuan<br />
Hang Khoai<br />
Luong Van Can<br />
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Le<br />
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Vong Ha<br />
Tong Dan<br />
Phan Huy Chu<br />
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Bach Dang
Ho Chi Minh City<br />
Body & Temple / Location, Location, Location / Coffee Cup / Bar Stool / Top Eats / Know Your City<br />
Photo by Julie Vola<br />
164 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
HCMC<br />
Essentials<br />
BAKERIES<br />
ABC BAKERY<br />
BAKERY & CAFÉ<br />
223 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1<br />
phamngulao.abcbakery.co<br />
Baguettes, croissants, pizza,<br />
cakes, muffins, donuts and<br />
brownies, this bakery and<br />
café all in one is a popular<br />
stop for those heading<br />
through the Backpacker<br />
District. Online ordering<br />
available.<br />
BREAD TALK<br />
CHAIN BAKERY<br />
106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,<br />
Q3; 2 Cao Thang, Q3; Vivo<br />
City, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh,<br />
Q7<br />
breadtalkvietnam.com<br />
A Singaporean bakery chain<br />
that is vying for the <strong>Vietnam</strong><br />
cake and bread market. Produces<br />
Asian-friendly patisseries<br />
and cakes in a spacious,<br />
airy atmosphere. Has eight<br />
locations and counting.<br />
HARVEST BAKING<br />
AMERICAN BAKERY<br />
harvestbaking.net<br />
With a production facility in<br />
Thu Duc, Harvest Baking focuses<br />
on both the retail and<br />
non-retail trade, cooking up<br />
the best American-style bakery<br />
products in the city. Has<br />
an excellent home delivery<br />
service. Check the website<br />
for details.<br />
L’AMOUR<br />
BAKERY & CAFE<br />
Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem,<br />
Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072<br />
lamourbakery.com.vn<br />
TOUS LES JOURS<br />
BAKERY & CAFE<br />
180 Hai Ba Trung, Q1; 59 Tran<br />
Hung Dao, Q1; 187 Nguyen<br />
Thi Minh Khai, Q1; 66B Cach<br />
Mang Thang Tam, Q3; Lotte<br />
Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho,<br />
Q7; 17/14 Le Thanh Ton, Q1<br />
touslesjoursbakery.com<br />
The background of this Korean<br />
bakery chain makes<br />
interesting reading. Established<br />
in 1996, in 2004 they<br />
opened in the US, 2005 in<br />
China and 2007 in <strong>Vietnam</strong>.<br />
French-styled with an Asian<br />
touch, the bare-brick décor<br />
makes this a popular joint.<br />
Has over 25 locations in <strong>Vietnam</strong>.<br />
VOELKER<br />
BAKERY<br />
39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)<br />
6296 0066<br />
voelker-vietnam.com<br />
French–run bakery selling<br />
probably the tastiest range of<br />
patisseries, breads, quiches<br />
and pies in town. The signature<br />
passion–fruit tart is a<br />
must try.<br />
M M M<br />
BOOKSHOPS<br />
FAHASA<br />
VIETNAMESE / ENGLISH LANGUAGE<br />
BOOKSTORE<br />
40 Nguyen Hue, Q1; 60-62 Le<br />
Loi, Q1<br />
fahasa.com<br />
Selling up a good selection of<br />
English language books — in<br />
a range of reading areas —<br />
this multi-storied bookshop<br />
also does stationery, toys<br />
and a range of related products.<br />
Has a good selection of<br />
ESL texts.<br />
LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE<br />
NAM PHONG<br />
82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3914 7858<br />
Nam Phong Bookstore was<br />
founded at the of end 2002<br />
in Ho Chi Minh City as the<br />
first and only francophone<br />
bookshop in the whole of<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>. Only books written<br />
in French are for sale, covering<br />
for all ages and tastes.<br />
A catalogue is available at<br />
namphongsaigon.com<br />
PNC<br />
VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE<br />
BOOKSTORE<br />
2A Le Duan, Q1; 2nd Floor<br />
Parkson Center, 35-45 Le<br />
Thanh Ton, Q1<br />
pnc.com.vn<br />
Although there are some<br />
English-language texts in<br />
this modern, well laid out<br />
bookstore, the focus here<br />
is on all things <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese.<br />
Worth checking out, thought,<br />
for the occasional gem.<br />
M M M<br />
BUSINESS GROUPS<br />
AMERICAN CHAMBER OF<br />
COMMERCE (AMCHAM)<br />
New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai,<br />
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562.<br />
amchamvietnam.com<br />
AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER<br />
OF COMMERCE<br />
(AUSCHAM)<br />
2nd Floor, Eximland Building,<br />
179EF Cach Mang Thang Tam,<br />
Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912<br />
auschamvn.org<br />
BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP<br />
OF VIETNAM (BBGV)<br />
25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3829 8430<br />
bbgv.org<br />
CANADIAN CHAMBER OF<br />
COMMERCE (CANCHAM)<br />
Room 305, New World Hotel,<br />
76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824<br />
3754<br />
canchamvietnam.org<br />
Open to all nationalities, the<br />
Canadian Chamber of Commerce<br />
aims to create an effective<br />
network of business<br />
associates together and to<br />
facilitate discussion forums<br />
about business in <strong>Vietnam</strong>.<br />
NORDCHAM<br />
17th Floor, Petroland Tower,<br />
12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08)<br />
5416 0922<br />
nordcham.com<br />
PHILIPPINES BUSINESS<br />
GROUP VIETNAM<br />
40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh<br />
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045<br />
pbgvn.com<br />
SINGAPORE BUSINESS<br />
GROUP<br />
6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy<br />
Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1,<br />
Tel: (08) 3823 3046<br />
sbghcm.org<br />
M M M<br />
CLOTHING &<br />
ACCESSORIES<br />
ANUPA ECO LUXE<br />
LEATHER & JEWELLERY<br />
9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822<br />
2394<br />
anupa.net<br />
Monday to Sunday, 9am to<br />
8pm<br />
This centrally located unique<br />
boutique has been converted<br />
into an eco-boutique<br />
which exclusively retails the<br />
complete Anupa leather<br />
and semi-precious jewellery<br />
range as well as other<br />
unique eco brands such as<br />
bamboo eyewear, pendant<br />
scarves and cushion covers.<br />
BAM SKATE SHOP<br />
SKATEWEAR / STREET<br />
174 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903<br />
641826<br />
Bamskateshop.com.vn<br />
BLUE DRAGON<br />
SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING<br />
1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
2210 2084<br />
GINKGO<br />
VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING<br />
10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521<br />
8755; 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 6270 5928<br />
ginkgo-vietnam.com<br />
Quality, original, <strong>Vietnam</strong>themed<br />
tees are the showpiece<br />
at this airy French-run<br />
store. Designs are inspired<br />
by anything from the <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
flag, local telecom<br />
wires and motorbikes to<br />
creative, Siddharta-style<br />
imagery.<br />
IPA-NIMA<br />
BAGS & ACCESSORIES<br />
77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3824 2701<br />
ipa-nima.com<br />
LITTLE ANH-EM<br />
BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING<br />
37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel:<br />
0917 567506<br />
In addition to a varied selection<br />
of garments for babies<br />
and children up to 10 years<br />
old, Little Anh-Em stocks<br />
sleeping bags and other accessories.<br />
L’USINE<br />
LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES<br />
First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1,<br />
Tel: (08) 6674 9565<br />
lusinespace.com<br />
Exclusive labels, elegant and<br />
sophisticated clothing and<br />
casual high-quality cottons<br />
are stocked at this boutique/<br />
café. Lifestyle accessories<br />
include shoes, homewares,<br />
knickknacks, cameras, stationery<br />
and a range of vintage<br />
bicycles.<br />
MANDARINA<br />
TAILOR-MADE SHOES<br />
171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3827 5267<br />
ORANGE<br />
BUDGET CLOTHING<br />
152 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3820 2620<br />
9am to 10pm<br />
PAPAYA<br />
BUDGET CLOTHING<br />
232 Bui Vien, Q1<br />
papaya-tshirt.com<br />
T&V TAILOR<br />
TAILORS<br />
39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3824 4556<br />
triciaandverona.com<br />
U.BEST HOUSE<br />
TRAVEL GEAR<br />
163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel:<br />
0978 967588<br />
Ubesthouse.com<br />
VESPA SHOP<br />
VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS<br />
80 Xuan Thuy, Q2<br />
Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired<br />
tidbits and memorabilia<br />
including t-shirts,<br />
riding gear, Italian helmets,<br />
Respro face masks, DVDs,<br />
books, bags, magazines,<br />
posters and more. Rental<br />
scooters and bikes available.<br />
CORPORATE GIFTS<br />
AMBRIJ<br />
14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1,<br />
Tel: (08) 3824 8364<br />
ambrij.com<br />
A one-stop-shop concept<br />
company providing marketing<br />
services including POSM,<br />
corporate gifts and luxury<br />
ranges of business gifts<br />
from international brands<br />
like Swarovski, Cerruti 1881,<br />
Nina Ricci, Christian Lacroix,<br />
SHOPPING<br />
MALLS<br />
DIAMOND PLAZA<br />
34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel:<br />
(08) 3825 7750<br />
9am to 10pm<br />
Cosmetics, Perfume,<br />
Clothing, Accessories,<br />
Electronics, Café, Food<br />
Court<br />
HUNG VUONG<br />
PLAZA<br />
126 Hung Vuong, Q5.<br />
Tel: (08) 2222 0383<br />
9.30am to 10pm<br />
Cosmetics, Perfume,<br />
Clothing, Accessories,<br />
Electronics, Café, Food<br />
Court<br />
PARKSON PLAZA<br />
35-45 Le Thanh Ton,<br />
Q1. Tel: (08) 3827 7636<br />
9.30am to 10pm<br />
Cosmetics, Perfume,<br />
Clothing, Accessories,<br />
Electronics, Café, Food<br />
Court<br />
SAIGON CENTRE<br />
65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08)<br />
3829 4888<br />
9am to 9pm<br />
Cosmetics, Perfume,<br />
Clothing, Accessories,<br />
Electronics, Café, Food<br />
Court<br />
SAIGON SQUARE<br />
77-89 Nam Ky Khoi<br />
Nghia, Q1<br />
9am to 9pm<br />
Cosmetics, Perfume,<br />
Clothing, Accessories,<br />
Electronics<br />
VINCOM CENTER<br />
70-72 Le Thanh Ton,<br />
Q1. Tel: (08) 3936 9999<br />
9am to 10pm<br />
Cosmetics, Perfume,<br />
Clothing, Accessories,<br />
Electronics, Café, Food<br />
Court<br />
ZEN PLAZA<br />
54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1<br />
Tel: (08) 3925 0339<br />
9am to 10pm<br />
Cosmetics, Perfume,<br />
Clothing, Accessories,<br />
Electronics, Café, Food<br />
Court<br />
166 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
AIRLINES<br />
AIR ASIA<br />
airasia.com<br />
AIR FRANCE<br />
airfrance.com.vn<br />
CATHAY PACIFIC<br />
cathaypacific.com/vn<br />
CHINA AIRLINES<br />
china-airlines.com<br />
JAPAN AIRLINES<br />
vn.jal.com<br />
JETSTAR PACIFIC<br />
jetstar.com/vn/en<br />
KOREAN AIR<br />
koreanair.com<br />
LAO AIRLINES<br />
laoairlines.com<br />
MALAYSIA<br />
AIRLINES<br />
malaysiaairlines.com<br />
SINGAPORE<br />
AIRLINES<br />
singaporeair.com<br />
THAI AIRWAYS<br />
thaiairways.com.vn<br />
TIGER AIRWAYS<br />
tigerair.com<br />
VIETJETAIR<br />
vietjetair.com<br />
VIETNAM<br />
AIRLINES<br />
vietnamairlines.com<br />
Ungaro and more. Also do<br />
event management services.<br />
COOKING CLASSES<br />
OVERLAND CLUB<br />
35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh,<br />
Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734<br />
overlandclub.jp<br />
The Overland Club organises<br />
pottery classes, <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese-<br />
Japanese cooking classes,<br />
cultural art events and<br />
monthly special activities,<br />
such as the Soba Festival,<br />
pottery painting classes, the<br />
art of decorating paper and<br />
multinational cuisine days.<br />
SAIGON COOKING<br />
CLASSES BY HOA TUC<br />
74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3825 8485<br />
saigoncookingclass.com<br />
Learn to cook quality <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
cuisine with local<br />
specialist Hoa Tuc. The threehour<br />
lesson, conducted by an<br />
English-speaking <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
chef, includes a trip around<br />
Ben Thanh Market to gather<br />
fresh ingredients for the class.<br />
VIETNAM COOKERY<br />
CENTRE<br />
Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu<br />
Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349<br />
vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com<br />
CRAFTS & FURNITURE<br />
ATC FURNITURE<br />
ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE<br />
268B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia,<br />
Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3932<br />
6455; 30A Nguyen Huu Canh,<br />
Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08)<br />
3840 3946<br />
atc-craft.com<br />
AUSTIN HOME<br />
REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS<br />
42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel:<br />
(08) 3519 0023<br />
austinhomeinteriors.com<br />
This An Phu-based shop<br />
stocks antique repro furniture.<br />
All products are samples,<br />
so it’s limited and exclusive<br />
with only one or two<br />
pieces of each particular<br />
item. Also has a great range<br />
of imported fabrics up on the<br />
2nd floor and an in-house<br />
sewing room for cushions,<br />
sofas and curtains. Offers<br />
custom-made furniture and<br />
delivery within four weeks.<br />
CHI LAI<br />
HOME FURNISHINGS<br />
175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel:<br />
(08) 3519 4543<br />
chilai.com<br />
This well-known <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
furniture brand is a<br />
good choice for most families<br />
with its respected highquality<br />
designs and competitive<br />
prices. Located on the<br />
corner of Pham Ngoc Thach<br />
and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious<br />
showroom specialises<br />
in sofas and other furniture<br />
such as table sets, shelves<br />
and kitchen cabinets. There<br />
is a large selection of carpets<br />
as well as numerous choices<br />
of curtains and accessories.<br />
EM EM<br />
SOUVENIRS<br />
38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3829 4408<br />
8am to 9.30pm<br />
FEELING TROPIC<br />
FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES<br />
51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien,<br />
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181<br />
Specialising in interior designs<br />
and landscaping, this<br />
three-storey building is so<br />
packed full of items for sale<br />
that it doesn’t seem to have<br />
enough space for all of its<br />
products. The basement storey<br />
carries outdoor furniture<br />
such as bamboo-imitation<br />
and mosaic table sets, while<br />
the second level stocks all<br />
types of indoor furniture except<br />
beds. Accessories are<br />
found on the level above.<br />
MEKONG CREATIONS<br />
FAIR TRADE CRAFTS<br />
35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 2210 3110<br />
mekong-creations.org<br />
NGUYEN FRERES<br />
NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS<br />
2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3823 9459<br />
8am to 8pm<br />
MEKONG QUILTS<br />
HAND-MADE QUILTS<br />
1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 2210 3110<br />
mekong-quilts.org<br />
NHA XINH<br />
HOME FURNISHINGS<br />
2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65<br />
Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6115<br />
nhaxinh.com<br />
REMIX DECO<br />
INDOOR FURNITURE<br />
222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,<br />
Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190<br />
remixdeco.com<br />
THE FURNITURE HOUSE<br />
HOME FURNISHINGS<br />
81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2,<br />
Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643<br />
THE FURNITURE<br />
WAREHOUSE<br />
EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE<br />
3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 6657 0788<br />
thefurniturewarehouse.com.<br />
vn<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 167
168 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
HCMC<br />
Essentials<br />
CYCLING<br />
FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM<br />
firstBIKE.com.vn<br />
FirstBIKE balance bikes for<br />
two to five-year-olds eliminate<br />
the need for training<br />
wheels or stabilisers, and<br />
support proper balance development.<br />
JETT CYCLES<br />
OWN-BRAND CYCLING SHOWROOM<br />
384 Tran Phu, Q5; 168 Vo Thi<br />
Sau, Q3<br />
jett-cycles.com<br />
The showroom home of Jett<br />
Cycles, a homegrown cycling<br />
company with all products<br />
designed in <strong>Vietnam</strong>.<br />
Sells up budget bicycles to<br />
high-end product, with the<br />
full range of accessories in<br />
between. Also stocks GT and<br />
Cannondale.<br />
SAIGON CYCLES<br />
CYCLING & ACCESSORIES<br />
44 Phan Van Nghi (S51-1<br />
Sky Garden 2), Q7, Tel: (08)<br />
5410 3114<br />
xedapcaocap.com<br />
Specialising in Trek and Surly,<br />
Saigon Cycles is also famed<br />
for its Sunday morning rides.<br />
Sells the full range of accessories<br />
and also does bicycle<br />
repairs.<br />
THE BIKE SHOP<br />
CYCLING & ACCESSORIES<br />
250 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,<br />
Tel: (08) 3744 6405<br />
thebikeshopvn.com<br />
The go-to location for all your<br />
cycling needs in District 2.<br />
Sells a range of brands including<br />
Cannondale, Jett, GT<br />
and Aluboo, as well as the<br />
full selection of accessories.<br />
Organises regular cycle rides,<br />
does repairs and rentals.<br />
Check facebook.com/thebikeshopvn<br />
for more details.<br />
M M M<br />
DENTAL CLINICS<br />
ACCADENT<br />
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC<br />
Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le<br />
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800<br />
accadent.com<br />
ELITE DENTAL GROUP.<br />
57A, Tran Quoc Thao, Q3, HCMC,<br />
Tel: (08) 3933 3737<br />
info@elitedental.com.vn<br />
elitedental.com.vn<br />
Elite Dental is an international<br />
and well-equipped<br />
clinic, which provides specialized<br />
dental services including<br />
ALL-ON-4 Implants,<br />
ALL-ON-6 implants, dental<br />
implants, prosthodontics,<br />
Invisalign & orthodontics.<br />
Luxury design and our dental<br />
experts will bring you<br />
an extremely comfortable<br />
experience.<br />
INTERNATIONAL SOS<br />
DENTAL CLINIC<br />
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC<br />
167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3,<br />
Tel: (08) 3829 8424<br />
internationalsos.com<br />
Globally renowned provider<br />
of medical assistance and international<br />
healthcare offers<br />
full dental services in the<br />
clinic. Foreign and <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
dentists provide high<br />
skilled dental service. Orthodontics<br />
is also available.<br />
MINH KHAI DENTAL<br />
CLINIC<br />
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC<br />
199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,<br />
Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 3399<br />
STARLIGHT<br />
DENTAL CLINIC<br />
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC<br />
2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te,<br />
Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222<br />
24, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)<br />
6282 8822<br />
starlightdental.net<br />
Long–established, modern<br />
clinic with French, Canadian,<br />
Belgian & <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese dentists.<br />
A favourite of the foreign<br />
residential community<br />
due to its modern and effective<br />
treatments allied with<br />
extremely reasonable prices.<br />
WESTCOAST INT’L DEN-<br />
TAL CLINIC<br />
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC<br />
Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung<br />
Truc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6999<br />
Thao Dien Clinic, 27 Nguyen Ba<br />
Lan, Q.2, Tel: (08) 35 191 777<br />
westcoastinternational.com<br />
An international dental clinic<br />
equipped with the latest<br />
technology, the comfortable<br />
clinics offer cosmetic and<br />
implant dentistry with a focus<br />
on making each patient’s<br />
experience anxiety and pain<br />
free.<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 169
BODY & TEMPLE<br />
JAVA JUGGERNAUTS<br />
BY PHIL KELLY<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong> is the second biggest<br />
producer of coffee in the world.<br />
Americans drink approximately<br />
400 million cups of it per day. It is<br />
the most socially acceptable and popular<br />
drug in the world; coffee is big business.<br />
Coffee can be both beneficial for health,<br />
performance and fat loss as well as<br />
detrimental. The world’s most popular<br />
drink packs a variety of positive punches<br />
but if consumed at the wrong time and by<br />
the wrong people, coffee can have just as<br />
many negative effects. Often thought of as<br />
a vice, it really depends or your individual<br />
genetics to how much you can beneficially<br />
drink. There are also smarter times to<br />
consume this social liquid to avoid negative<br />
health and performance outcomes.<br />
What does caffeine do?<br />
Caffeine acts by mimicking a compound<br />
called adenosine and binding to its receptors<br />
before the real thing can. By blocking<br />
adenosine, caffeine increases cognitive<br />
function and counters sleepiness. Caffeine<br />
also inhibits widening of blood vessels<br />
(vasodilation) and stimulates a cortisol<br />
response. Cortisol is our fight or flight<br />
hormone, fuelling a high-energy response to<br />
danger or perceived danger (stress).<br />
The Good<br />
Observational studies have concluded that<br />
caffeine can protect against and fight cancer,<br />
slow the rate of mental decline, reduce the<br />
risk of type 2 diabetes, lower oxidative<br />
stress, reduce risk of stroke and Parkinson’s<br />
Disease and its high antioxidant<br />
(polyphenols) content is associated with<br />
protection from sun-damaged skin.<br />
Coffee can help you lose fat, as it’s<br />
packed with compounds that have been<br />
shown to increase metabolic rate, improve<br />
exercise performance, stop cravings, and<br />
make you more effective at burning fat.<br />
The Bad<br />
There is a very important genetic element<br />
to whether coffee is good or bad for you.<br />
The gene CYP1A2 encodes an enzyme from<br />
the liver to metabolise caffeine. A slow<br />
metaboliser has the CC variant of the gene,<br />
a moderate metaboliser has the AC variant<br />
and a fast metaboliser has the AA variant.<br />
The effects of caffeine last longer and are<br />
stronger in slow and medium metabolisers.<br />
Whereas, fast metabolisers can process<br />
caffeine very efficiently so it affects them<br />
less. Slow caffeine metabolizers who drink<br />
more than two cups per day appear to<br />
have higher rates of hypertension, glucose<br />
intolerance and heart problems.<br />
Rules for Consumption<br />
1) Don’t drink it first thing in the morning<br />
Coffee produces a cortisol response. High<br />
cortisol levels are closely related to high<br />
levels of belly fat. Cortisol is your body’s<br />
natural wake-up hormone.<br />
Right before you wake up, cortisol spikes<br />
to prepare you for the day. Right after you<br />
wake up, it spikes again, pushing you to<br />
the highest levels of the day. Drinking<br />
coffee when cortisol is high is somewhat<br />
redundant and can lead to an excess of<br />
circulating cortisol and cause fat storage.<br />
2) Drink coffee when you don’t need it<br />
Coffee is not a good solution for lack of<br />
sleep or tiredness. If tired, instead of having<br />
a coffee, you should get more sleep. Coffee<br />
will work best when your adenosine<br />
receptors are functioning well and not under<br />
stress. If you are tired, caffeine only really<br />
equalises energy rather than providing a<br />
boost. Drinking too much too often can<br />
make you dependent on coffee, and fatigue<br />
your natural energy producing system.<br />
3) Don’t drink coffee post-workout<br />
Again, this is related to cortisol. Cortisol is<br />
a catabolic (muscle breakdown) hormone<br />
and the minute you finish training you<br />
want to promote an anabolic (muscle<br />
building/repair) state. When you drink<br />
coffee post-workout you prolong the<br />
catabolic state, which will limit recovery,<br />
fat burning and muscle development.<br />
A coffee pre-workout is great, as cortisol<br />
is a stimulating hormone. It will provide<br />
energy for the workout and breakdown<br />
protein for energy.<br />
Some people under certain contexts, or<br />
with certain genetic variants, shouldn’t<br />
drink much coffee. For most, coffee<br />
should not be consumed at night or postexercise<br />
but all in all, coffee has some<br />
very beneficial effects depending on if<br />
you metabolise it well. Drinking it at the<br />
optimal times will improve productivity<br />
and mood, boost training and protect<br />
against a host of diseases and conditions<br />
due to its whopping dose of antioxidants.<br />
Phil is founder and master trainer at Body<br />
Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763,<br />
at his website bodyexpertsystems.com or<br />
through Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com)<br />
170 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
HCMC<br />
Essentials<br />
MAPLE HEALTHCARE<br />
DENTAL & CHIROPRACTICS<br />
Md6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7<br />
(across from FV Hospital), Tel:<br />
Tel: (08) 5410 0100<br />
maplehealthcare.net<br />
Specialising in healthcare,<br />
dental services and chiropractic<br />
medicine, the recently<br />
opened Maple Healthcare<br />
comes replete with the<br />
latest technology together<br />
with efficient and comfortable<br />
service.<br />
M M M<br />
GALLERIES<br />
CRAIG THOMAS<br />
GALLERY<br />
27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel:<br />
0903 888431<br />
cthomasgallery.com<br />
Craig Thomas Gallery offers<br />
a compelling mix of up-andcoming<br />
and established<br />
local artists. In operation<br />
since 2009, its founder has<br />
been promoting <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
art for a decade. Now<br />
has a second newer gallery<br />
at 165 Calmette, Q1, HCMC<br />
DOGMA<br />
8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1<br />
dogmacollection.com<br />
The home of <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
propaganda art and a collection<br />
put together over the<br />
last two decades by art collector<br />
Dominic Scriven, the<br />
majority of the work comes<br />
from the war period when<br />
provocative poster art was<br />
used to inspire and motivate.<br />
Sells prints of the originals<br />
and related products.<br />
GALERIE QUYNH<br />
65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3836 8019<br />
galeriequynh.com<br />
In addition to working with<br />
artists based in <strong>Vietnam</strong>,<br />
Galerie Quynh also exhibits<br />
the work of artists from<br />
around the world. This wellestablished<br />
gallery supports<br />
education through talks, lectures<br />
and publications.<br />
HO CHI MINH CITY FINE<br />
ARTS MUSEUM<br />
97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3829 4441<br />
baotangmythuattphcm.vn<br />
Set in one of the finest<br />
remaining buildings of<br />
colonial-era <strong>Vietnam</strong>, this<br />
multi-storey museum houses<br />
collections spanning centuries<br />
of <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese art. Has<br />
regular exhibitions.<br />
SAN ART<br />
48/7 Me Linh, Binh Thanh,<br />
Tel: (08) 6294 7059<br />
san-art.org<br />
San Art is an independent,<br />
artist-run exhibition<br />
space that offers residency<br />
programmes for young artists,<br />
lecture series and an<br />
exchange programme that<br />
invites international artists /<br />
curators to organise or collaborate<br />
on exhibitions.<br />
GROCERIES & LIQUOR<br />
ANNAM GOURMET<br />
MARKET<br />
GROCERY & DELI<br />
16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3822 9332; 41A Thao<br />
Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2630<br />
Annam-gourmet.com<br />
Attractive and spacious<br />
French–owned grocery shop<br />
stocking a large range of<br />
foods, organic fruit and<br />
vegetables, imported beers<br />
and wines. Also sells luxury<br />
branded products from the<br />
likes of Fauchon. The deli<br />
upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung<br />
branch serves tasty baguette<br />
rolls in a comfortable lounge<br />
area with free Wi–Fi, and offers<br />
probably the best selection<br />
of cheese and cured<br />
meats in town.<br />
CLASSIC FINE FOODS<br />
GROCERIES & IMPORTER<br />
No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular<br />
to Tran Nao street),<br />
Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105<br />
classicfinefoods.com<br />
Supplier for the city’s five–<br />
star hotels, also distributing<br />
brands like San Pellegrino,<br />
Rougie foie gras, Galbani<br />
cheese, fresh poultries,<br />
meat, live seafood and vegetables.<br />
You can now find all<br />
the products at the gourmet<br />
shop on location.<br />
MEATWORKS BUTCHERY<br />
BUTCHERS<br />
1 Street 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)<br />
3744 2565<br />
meatworksasia.com<br />
Focusing on the retail trade,<br />
the meat at this Australianmanaged<br />
butcher comes<br />
pre-prepared and, if you so<br />
wish, pre-marinated. Sells<br />
up some of the best imported<br />
meats in town together<br />
with homemade sausages,<br />
free-range products and<br />
excellent Australian grassfed<br />
steak.<br />
PHUONG HA<br />
GROCERS<br />
58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3914 1318<br />
A small yet amazingly wellstocked<br />
store that puts<br />
many a supermarket in this<br />
country to shame. As well<br />
as a dizzying selection of<br />
imported foods, also sells<br />
frozen meat and fish, fruit,<br />
vegetables, herbs, spices<br />
and a wide selection of dairy<br />
products.<br />
THE WAREHOUSE<br />
WINE SHOP<br />
15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3825 8826<br />
One of the busiest wine retailers<br />
in town. In addition<br />
to their excellent range of<br />
wines, they also stock imported<br />
beers, bottled mineral<br />
water and spirits.<br />
VEGGY’S<br />
GROCERS & DELI<br />
29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3823 8526<br />
Courtesy of a farm in Dalat,<br />
Veggy’s retails some of the<br />
best quality fruit and veg<br />
available in the city. Also<br />
has a wide selection of imported<br />
food products including<br />
USDA beef, the same beef<br />
served up at El Gaucho.<br />
HAIRDRESSERS,<br />
SALONS & SPAS<br />
AVEDA HERBAL SPA<br />
Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao<br />
Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671<br />
avedaherbal@gmail.com<br />
CAT MOC SPA<br />
63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
6295 8926<br />
catmocspa.com<br />
Aimed exclusively at ladies<br />
and couples only, treatments<br />
at this Japanese spa include<br />
facial, body and foot care,<br />
and Japanese-style haircuts,<br />
as well as steam-sauna, paraffin<br />
and waxing services.<br />
CONCEPT COIFFURE<br />
48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel:<br />
(08) 3519 4625<br />
Conceptcoiffure.vn<br />
Hair stylist and colourist specialist<br />
Sandrine has relocated<br />
her long-standing flagship<br />
salon Venus Coiffure to a villa<br />
in Thao Dien. A full range of<br />
services is offered including<br />
a dedicated kids salon.<br />
FAME NAILS SALON<br />
3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909<br />
682 827<br />
famenails.com<br />
GLOW SPA<br />
129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3823 8368<br />
glowsaigon.com<br />
Modern and bright downtown<br />
spa, offers massages<br />
lasting from 30 minutes, to<br />
two-hour hot stone therapy,<br />
includes one suite with a<br />
Jacuzzi bath; offers hand<br />
and foot care and a hair<br />
styling area.<br />
CRICKET<br />
ECCS (THE ENGLISH<br />
CRICKET CLUB<br />
OF SAIGON)<br />
Adam Zakharoff<br />
Email: adamzakharoff@<br />
gmail.com<br />
ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET<br />
CLUB OF SAIGON)<br />
Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228<br />
770 038<br />
deepteshgill@gmail.com<br />
ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS<br />
CLUB IN SAIGON)<br />
Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986<br />
973 244<br />
gmunish29@yahoo.co.in<br />
PSSC (PAKISTAN<br />
SAIGON CRICKET CLUB)<br />
Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976<br />
469 090<br />
samie.cashmiri@gmail.<br />
com<br />
SACC (SAIGON AUS-<br />
TRALIA CRICKET CLUB)<br />
Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903<br />
998 824<br />
sacccricket@gmail.com<br />
SSC (SRI LANKA<br />
SPORTS CLUB)<br />
Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988<br />
571 010<br />
suhard.amit@yahoo.com<br />
UCC (UNITED CRICKET<br />
CLUB)<br />
Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034<br />
npasifali@hotmail.com<br />
VIETNAM CRICKET AS-<br />
SOCIATION (VCA)<br />
Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908<br />
200 598<br />
manish@ambrij.com<br />
FOOTBALL & RUGBY<br />
AUSTRALIAN RULES<br />
FOOTBALL<br />
Tel: 0937 683 230<br />
vietnamswans.com<br />
LES GAULOIS DE SAI-<br />
GON<br />
gauloisdesaigon.com<br />
OLYMPIQUE SAIGON<br />
Contact Fred on 0919 709<br />
024 or Viet Luu 0909 500<br />
171.<br />
astere@hotmail.fr<br />
SPORTS<br />
SAIGON RAIDERS<br />
Saigonraiders.com<br />
SAIGON RUGBY CLUB<br />
RMIT University, 702<br />
Nguyen Van Linh, Tan<br />
Phong, Q7<br />
saigonrugbyfootballclub@<br />
yahoo.com<br />
SAIGON SAINTS<br />
saigonsaints.com<br />
SPORTS — GENERAL<br />
HASH HOUSE HARRIERS<br />
saigonhash.com<br />
RANGERS BASEBALL<br />
TEAM<br />
isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp<br />
SAIGON INTERNATIONAL<br />
DARTS LEAGUE<br />
thesidl.com<br />
SAIGON INTERNATIONAL<br />
SOFTBALL LEAGUE<br />
saigonsoftball.info<br />
SAIGON SHOOTERS<br />
NETBALL CLUB<br />
saigonshootersnetball.<br />
blogspot.com<br />
SAIGON SPORTS ACAD-<br />
EMY<br />
28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08)<br />
7303 1100<br />
saigonsportsacademy.com<br />
SQUASH<br />
The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc<br />
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822<br />
2098 ext 176<br />
thelandmarkvietnam.com<br />
TORNADOS HOCKEY<br />
CLUB<br />
436A/33 Ba Thang Hai, Q10,<br />
Tel: 0938 889899<br />
James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn<br />
ULTIMATE FRISBEE<br />
RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van<br />
Linh, Q7<br />
Saigon-ultimate.com<br />
X–ROCK CLIMBING<br />
7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3,<br />
Tel: (08) 6278 5794<br />
xrockclimbing.com<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 171
L<br />
LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION<br />
TO BUY OR NOT TO BUY?<br />
BY GREG OHAN<br />
When <strong>Vietnam</strong>’s National<br />
Assembly passed on Nov.<br />
25, 2014, the long-awaited<br />
amended Housing Law that<br />
finally addressed the issue on foreign<br />
ownership of property, we in the real estate<br />
industry had no idea what to expect.<br />
Now, over 18 months on, this single<br />
piece of legislation has (supported by<br />
favourable market conditions) helped to<br />
drive the <strong>Vietnam</strong> real estate market from<br />
what was considered oblivion pre-2015<br />
to becoming one of the more attractive<br />
markets in the region. You want to know<br />
the best thing about it? Now foreigners<br />
have a slice of the pie — well, perhaps<br />
more of a bite than a slice, but nonetheless<br />
the dessert is being shared with the guests,<br />
which is delightfully refreshing.<br />
The <strong>Vietnam</strong> residential market had seen<br />
very sluggish growth leading up to 2015,<br />
due to a number of factors including the<br />
previous restrictions on foreign ownership;<br />
the lack of quality developments; a<br />
speculative bubble from 2006 to 2008; the<br />
small size of the leasing market, and more<br />
attractive and transparent investment<br />
opportunities elsewhere in the region.<br />
However, the new legislation played a<br />
major role in addressing many of these<br />
issues and even removed some of those<br />
cumbersome conditions that foreigners<br />
previously faced making the <strong>Vietnam</strong><br />
market somewhat ‘sexy’ again.<br />
So how does the foreign ownership<br />
law impact expats living in <strong>Vietnam</strong> and<br />
foreign investors?<br />
Who can buy? Individuals — all<br />
foreigners who are granted a visa to<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong> are allowed to buy residential<br />
properties in the country. Entities —<br />
all foreign investment funds, banks,<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese branches and representative<br />
offices of overseas companies are eligible<br />
to buy.<br />
Types of Property. All types of<br />
residential sector properties including<br />
condominiums and landed property<br />
such as villas and townhouses within a<br />
development project (previously only<br />
applicable to condominiums)<br />
Volume. There is no limit on the number<br />
of units a foreigner can buy, but the total<br />
number of dwelling units owned by<br />
foreigners must not exceed 30% of the total<br />
units in one condominium complex, or not<br />
exceed 10% of landed property within a<br />
development project.<br />
Purpose of Purchase. The properties<br />
owned by foreigners can be sub-leased,<br />
inherited and collateralised (previously<br />
only for owner-occupying purpose and not<br />
to be rented out).<br />
Tenure. The tenure allowed to foreign<br />
individuals buying homes is a 50-year<br />
leasehold with renewal possibility upon<br />
expiration, which remains unchanged.<br />
Foreign individuals married to <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
citizens are entitled to freehold tenure.<br />
Opening the gates of the local property<br />
market wider to foreigners proved to be<br />
a very positive step in the right direction,<br />
and certainly did not come too soon.<br />
However, with the gate swung open,<br />
affordability now reigns as the major issue<br />
impacting investors, as property prices<br />
in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City have hit<br />
record highs. For example, a villa in Tay<br />
Ho, Hanoi, starts from US$1 million at the<br />
lowest entry level, higher than in a city like<br />
Paris. Even new mid-range condominium<br />
developments in gentrified District 4, Ho<br />
Chi Minh City now start at US$2,500 per<br />
square metre.<br />
So are we entering a housing bubble<br />
similar to bubbles seen in cities like London<br />
and New York? Or is this a flash in the real<br />
estate pan?<br />
I think it’s a little too early to tell. But<br />
seeing the strong interest monitored at<br />
recent launch events for residential projects<br />
in Ho Chi Minh City, for the foreseeable<br />
future prices will continue to rise, which<br />
bodes well for investors. However, when<br />
it comes to first time buyers, the rising cost<br />
of real estate is making getting into the<br />
housing market prohibitive.<br />
Greg Ohan is the Solutions Development<br />
Director for Jones Lang LaSalle, a global real<br />
estate services firm specializing in property and<br />
investment management. You can contact him<br />
on greg.ohan@ap.jll.com<br />
172 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
HAIR BAR<br />
CONTEMPORARY SALON<br />
68 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (FREE-<br />
PHONE) 1800 1108<br />
hairbar.vn<br />
A unique themed hair salon<br />
where stylists use no scissors<br />
but styling equipment<br />
only, giving female clients<br />
the opportunity to get their<br />
hair done on the run. Of<br />
course, they have to look<br />
fabulous, too. Fortunately<br />
this is one of Hair Bar’s specialities.<br />
Check the salon out<br />
on Facebook: facebook.com/<br />
hairbarvn.<br />
INDOCHINE SPA<br />
69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3827 7188<br />
Indochine-spa.com.vn<br />
Indochine Spa provides a<br />
peaceful and serene atmosphere<br />
with aromatic scents<br />
and lulling melodies. Customers<br />
are pampered by qualified<br />
therapists using natural<br />
French products in a clean<br />
and pleasant environment.<br />
JASMINE<br />
45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3827 2737<br />
Jasminespa.vn<br />
Spa–related salon with a<br />
good reputation for quality<br />
and comfort offers washes<br />
and leisurely haircuts from<br />
VND330,000 plus a range of<br />
related services including<br />
massage and some excellent<br />
treatments.<br />
MERCI<br />
17/6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3825 8799<br />
merci-space.com<br />
A unique nail spa and bistro<br />
where you can pamper<br />
your nails, enjoy a massage,<br />
meet your friends, enjoy a<br />
meal and sip a cocktail. Provides<br />
only waterless nails<br />
treatments to avoid bacteria<br />
and dry skin as well as Zoya<br />
and Kure Bazaar non-toxic<br />
varnishes.<br />
QUYNH BEAUTY SALON<br />
104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien,<br />
Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321<br />
A District 2 favourite, this is<br />
the salon to head to for anything<br />
from massage to haircuts,<br />
hairwashing to nails.<br />
Cheap prices, too.<br />
SOI SPA<br />
6th & Rooftop, 44 Nguyen<br />
Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8678<br />
soispa.vn<br />
A lovely little place with nail<br />
services, shampoo head<br />
massages, and other simple<br />
treatments for a quick<br />
getaway experience. Also<br />
features a rooftop terrace<br />
and a great little drinks and<br />
wine selection. Open daily<br />
from 10am to 9pm.<br />
SPA TROPIC<br />
79 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3910 5575<br />
spatropic.com<br />
Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique<br />
spa housed in the<br />
refurbished former Chilean<br />
Consulate. Spa Tropic has<br />
a long-standing reputation<br />
among expats and visitors<br />
alike for its professional<br />
quality service.<br />
HOSPITALS &<br />
MEDICAL CLINICS<br />
AMERICAN<br />
CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC<br />
CHIROPRACTOR<br />
161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3,<br />
Tel: (08) 3939 3930<br />
www.acc.vn<br />
ACC provides effective chiropractic,<br />
physiotherapy,<br />
acupuncture and foot care<br />
treatments through the use<br />
of cutting edge technology<br />
for back, neck and knee<br />
pain, sports injuries as well<br />
as all types of foot related<br />
problems without the need<br />
of drugs or surgery.<br />
AMERICAN EYE CENTER<br />
5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105<br />
Ton Dat Tien, Q7<br />
Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759<br />
americaneyecentervn.com<br />
American Eye Center is located<br />
in the heart of Phu My<br />
Hung, providing eye care services<br />
to Adults and Children<br />
by an American Board-certified<br />
ophthalmologist with<br />
17 years of experience. The<br />
American-standard facility is<br />
equipped with state of the<br />
art equipments for the early<br />
detection and treatment of<br />
important eye diseases from<br />
Lasik and cataract surgeries<br />
to presbyopia, glaucoma<br />
and diabetic eye disease<br />
treatments. Cosmetic procedures<br />
such as eyelid surgery<br />
and Botox injections are also<br />
available.<br />
CENTRE MEDICAL<br />
INTERNATIONALE (CMI)<br />
FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC<br />
1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3827 2366<br />
cmi-vietnam.com<br />
This French medical clinic<br />
provides general practice<br />
and a range of specialties<br />
including cardiology, gynecology,<br />
psychotherapy, ophthalmology,<br />
paediatrics and<br />
acupuncture.<br />
FAMILY MEDICAL<br />
PRACTICE<br />
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC<br />
34 Le Duan Street, Q1; 95 Thao<br />
Dien Q2, Tel: (08) 3822 7848<br />
vietnammedicalpractice.com<br />
Family Medical Practice<br />
(FMP) is the largest and one<br />
of the oldest foreign, privately-owned,<br />
international<br />
health care providers in <strong>Vietnam</strong>.<br />
As the only health<br />
care provider that can offer<br />
a countrywide network of<br />
integrated clinics for foreign<br />
and local populations, FMP’s<br />
main specialties include family<br />
medicine, pediatrics and<br />
emergency medicine as well<br />
as health checks and work<br />
permit health-tests.<br />
FV HOSPITAL<br />
INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL<br />
6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon<br />
South Parkway, Q7, Tel: (08)<br />
5411 3333<br />
Emergency: (08) 5411 3500<br />
fvhospital.com<br />
International hospital<br />
whose standard of health<br />
care matches that found<br />
anywhere, with 19 full–time<br />
French doctors and 58 <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
doctors, providing<br />
expertise in 30 medical and<br />
surgical areas, especially maternity<br />
care.<br />
FV SAIGON CLINIC<br />
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC<br />
3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial<br />
Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 6290 6167<br />
fvhospital.com<br />
State–of–the–art medical centre<br />
located in District 1. Experienced<br />
American, French,<br />
and <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese doctors provide<br />
the full spectrum health<br />
care. Plus sports medicine,<br />
cosmetic treatments, skin<br />
care and surgical consultations.<br />
HANH PHUC<br />
INTERNATIONAL<br />
HOSPITAL<br />
INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL<br />
Binh Duong Boulevard, Thuan<br />
An District, Binh Duong<br />
Tel: (0650) 363 6068<br />
hanhphuchospital.com<br />
Claiming to be the first Singapore-standard<br />
hospital in<br />
Ho Chi Minh City, this institution<br />
based on the outskirts<br />
of town is gaining a growing<br />
reputation for service and<br />
treatment. Specialises in providing<br />
healthcare to women<br />
and children. Has a clinic at<br />
97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1<br />
HAPPINESS ORIENTAL<br />
MEDICINE ACUPUNCTURE<br />
CLINIC<br />
ACUPUNCTURE<br />
432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7,<br />
Tel: 0906 684969<br />
Well-known traditional Chinese<br />
medicine clinic in Phu<br />
My Hung specialising in<br />
acupuncture. Established in<br />
Ho Chi Minh City for over a<br />
decade.<br />
INTERNATIONAL SOS<br />
HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC<br />
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC<br />
167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3,<br />
Tel: (08) 3829 8424<br />
internationalsos.com<br />
The world’s leading provider<br />
of medical assistance and in-<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 173
HCMC<br />
Essentials<br />
ternational healthcare offers<br />
primary health care, diagnostic<br />
services and 24/7 emergency<br />
care. Specialist care is<br />
available in many fields.<br />
SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC<br />
SKIN CARE / COSMETICS<br />
107B Truong Dinh, Q3<br />
Tel: 01676 71 75 79<br />
sianclinic.com<br />
The Australian and Canadian<br />
managed SIAN Clinic<br />
offers a wide range of skincare<br />
medical therapies to<br />
treat problems by an experienced<br />
dermatologist and<br />
facial care team. The clinic<br />
utilises the latest therapies.<br />
STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE<br />
SKIN CARE / COSMETICS<br />
99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3925 1990<br />
stamfordskin.com<br />
Stamford Skin Centre offers a<br />
broad range of medical and<br />
aesthetic skin treatments.<br />
Their international dermatologists<br />
and doctors ensure<br />
accurate diagnosis and safe<br />
treatment procedures. It<br />
houses excellent equipment<br />
for a variety of procedures.<br />
TRADITIONAL<br />
MEDICINE HOSPITAL<br />
EASTERN MEDICINE<br />
187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3,<br />
Tel: (08) 3932 6579<br />
VICTORIA HEALTHCARE<br />
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC<br />
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC<br />
79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3910 4545<br />
victoriavn.com<br />
Well-regarded clinic offering<br />
general examinations and<br />
specialising in pediatrics, digestive<br />
diseases, cardiology,<br />
women’s health and internal<br />
medicine. Offers a membership<br />
programme and cooperates<br />
with most insurance<br />
companies in <strong>Vietnam</strong> and<br />
abroad.<br />
INSURANCE<br />
PACIFIC CROSS VIETNAM<br />
4th/12th Floor Continental<br />
Tower, 81-83-85 Ham Nghi, Q1<br />
Tel: (08) 3821 9908<br />
pacificcross.com.vn<br />
Pacific Cross <strong>Vietnam</strong> recently<br />
changed names,<br />
from Blue Cross <strong>Vietnam</strong>,<br />
to align with their regional<br />
sister companies. Together<br />
they form the Pacific Cross<br />
group of companies with<br />
over 60 years’ experience<br />
providing health and travel<br />
insurance to people who call<br />
Asia home. Their reputation<br />
for transparent, honest and<br />
reliable service means they<br />
are the strength behind<br />
your insurance. Contact<br />
them now for a free quote.<br />
IF CONSULTING<br />
IBC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A<br />
Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3827 7362<br />
insuranceinasia.com<br />
Independent advisors that<br />
represent top reputable<br />
medical insurers provide<br />
you with the best suitable<br />
medical cover for individual,<br />
family or company needs.<br />
For emergencies call 0903<br />
732365<br />
LIBERTY INSURANCE<br />
15th Floor, Kumho Asiana<br />
Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel:<br />
1800 599 998<br />
libertyinsurance.com.vn<br />
International insurance firm<br />
providing the full range of<br />
services to the individual —<br />
car insurance, travel insurance,<br />
health insurance, home<br />
insurance and much more.<br />
NOAH JAMES<br />
INSURANCE AGENCY<br />
Mobile: (1) 617 676 7858<br />
noahjamesinsurance.com<br />
Skype: jp.global<br />
A full service broker offering<br />
expatriates and local<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese customized solutions<br />
from highly rated insurers<br />
for life, health, travel,<br />
as well as speciality cover for<br />
student travel, medevac, international<br />
marine, extreme<br />
athletics and adventure. For<br />
details contact: james@noahjamesinsurance.com<br />
TENZING PACIFIC<br />
SERVICES<br />
181 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3821 5367<br />
ten-pac.com<br />
A full-service insurance broker<br />
offering a wide range of<br />
insurance solutions from the<br />
best local and international<br />
providers. Recommendations<br />
are based exclusively on client<br />
needs.<br />
INTERNATIONAL<br />
SCHOOLS<br />
ABC INTERNATIONAL<br />
SCHOOL (ABCIS)<br />
Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary<br />
& Secondary), Tel: (08)<br />
5431 1833/34/35/36; Saigon<br />
South Campus 2 (Foundation<br />
Stage & Early Primary),<br />
Tel: (08) 5431 1833/34/35/36<br />
theabcis.com<br />
Rated as ‘outstanding’ by<br />
British Government Inspectors,<br />
academic results puts<br />
ABCIS among the top 8% of<br />
schools worldwide. ABCIS<br />
is accredited by CIE, AQA,<br />
the Education Development<br />
Trust and members of CO-<br />
BIS and FOBISIA. Provides<br />
education for two to 18<br />
year olds in a supportive<br />
and friendly environment.<br />
AUSTRALIAN<br />
INTERNATIONAL<br />
SCHOOL (AIS)<br />
Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van<br />
Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519<br />
2727; Thao Dien Campus,<br />
APSC Compound, 36 Thao<br />
Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6960;<br />
Thu Thiem Campus, 264 Mai<br />
Chi Tho (East-West Highway),<br />
An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08)<br />
3742 4040<br />
aisvietnam.com<br />
The Australian International<br />
School is an IB World School<br />
with three world-class campuses<br />
in District 2, offering<br />
an international education<br />
from kindergarten to senior<br />
school with the IB Primary<br />
Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge<br />
Secondary Programme<br />
(including IGCSE) and IB Diploma<br />
Programme (DP).<br />
ETONHOUSE<br />
INTERNATIONAL<br />
PRE-SCHOOL @ AN PHU<br />
1st and 2nd floor, Somerset<br />
Vista, 628C Hanoi Highway, An<br />
Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6287 0804<br />
etonhouse.vn/schools/hcmc<br />
Following an international<br />
curriculum for children aged<br />
18 months to six years, in the<br />
early years, an Inquire-Think-<br />
Learn approach is followed,<br />
inspired by the Reggio Emilia<br />
Project of Northern Italy. It is a<br />
play-based, inquiry model in<br />
which children co-construct<br />
their learning in close, respectful<br />
collaboration with their<br />
teachers. This helps us provide<br />
an environment where<br />
children take responsibility<br />
for their own learning, allowing<br />
them a head start in life.<br />
BRITISH INTERNATIONAL<br />
SCHOOL (BIS)<br />
246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,<br />
Tel: (08) 3744 2335<br />
bisvietnam.com<br />
Inspected and approved by<br />
the British Government, BIS<br />
provides a British style curriculum<br />
for an international<br />
student body from pre-school<br />
to Year 13. The school is<br />
staffed by British qualified<br />
and trained teachers with<br />
recent UK experience. Fully<br />
accredited by the Council of<br />
International Schools and a<br />
member of FOBISIA, BIS is the<br />
largest international school in<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>.<br />
CANADIAN<br />
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL<br />
7 Road 23, Phu My Hung, Q7,<br />
Tel: (08) 5412 3456<br />
cis.edu.vn<br />
The first Canadian international<br />
school in <strong>Vietnam</strong><br />
serves local and foreign<br />
students from Kindergarten<br />
to grade 12. Talented, certified<br />
teachers implement the<br />
internationally recognised<br />
KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS<br />
DANCENTER<br />
53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490<br />
dancentervn.com<br />
Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop,<br />
funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at<br />
this modern dance studio.<br />
HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING<br />
189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780<br />
helenekling.com<br />
INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER<br />
37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700<br />
Inspirato.edu.vn<br />
MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE<br />
94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691<br />
Minhnguyenpiano.com<br />
PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON<br />
19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679<br />
paa.com.vn<br />
Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids<br />
in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet<br />
and saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and<br />
a mixture of private and group classes.<br />
PIANO CLASSES<br />
Tel: 01225 636682<br />
morrissokoloff@hotmail.com<br />
SAIGON MOVEMENT<br />
Tel: 0987 027 722<br />
saigonmovement@gmail.com<br />
SAIGON SEAL TEAM<br />
55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279<br />
SAIGON PONY CLUB<br />
38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360<br />
Saigonponyclub.com<br />
SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY<br />
28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100<br />
saigonsportsacademy.com<br />
International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball,<br />
tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16<br />
years and private lessons for children and adults. Youth<br />
soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.<br />
TAE KWON DO<br />
BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149<br />
VINSPACE<br />
6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846<br />
vin-space.com<br />
174 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
Ontario curriculum to create<br />
a student-centred learning<br />
environment promoting<br />
academic excellence. Has a<br />
newly built campus.<br />
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL<br />
HO CHI MINH CITY<br />
28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08)<br />
3898 9100<br />
ishcmc.com<br />
HCMC’s most established<br />
international school offers<br />
three International Baccalaureate<br />
programmes for<br />
students from two to 18<br />
years old. ISHCMC will be<br />
launching a new secondary<br />
campus in 2017, featuring<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>’s first Innovation<br />
Center, a 350-seat professional<br />
theatre, NBA-sized<br />
basketball courts and a 25m<br />
competitive swimming pool.<br />
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL<br />
HO CHI MINH CITY —<br />
AMERICAN ACADEMY<br />
16 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08)<br />
3898 9100<br />
aavn.edu.vn<br />
ISHCMC — American Academy<br />
is a U.S. curriculum<br />
secondary school for students<br />
aged 11 to 18 years<br />
old. Early university credits,<br />
a 1:1 University Counseling<br />
Program, and an extensive<br />
EAL program set our graduates<br />
on the road to 100%<br />
acceptance rate at overseas<br />
universities and a US$1 million<br />
scholarship fund.<br />
KIDS CLUB SAIGON<br />
79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7;<br />
27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel: (08)<br />
5412 5944<br />
kidsclubsaigon.com<br />
Early childhood centres in<br />
Phu My Hung offering creative<br />
play-based programmes<br />
for children ages two to five.<br />
Known for unique facilities,<br />
experienced staff, highquality<br />
learning resources,<br />
and small class sizes.<br />
EUROPEAN<br />
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL<br />
HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS)<br />
730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Q2,<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>, Tel: (08) 7300 7257<br />
eishcmc.com<br />
The European International<br />
School offers a supportive<br />
and challenging academic<br />
education from Early Years<br />
to Grade 12 based on the IB<br />
curriculum. EIS is a Nobel Talent<br />
School and is part of the<br />
Nobel Education Network.<br />
The school educates global<br />
citizens to enjoy learning, inquiring<br />
and caring for others.<br />
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL<br />
SAIGON PEARL<br />
92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh,<br />
Tel: (08) 2222 7788/99<br />
issp.edu.vn<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>’s only international<br />
school offering a U.S. curriculum<br />
for children aged<br />
18 months to 11 years old.<br />
With 100% English language<br />
immersion, a library containing<br />
over 13,500 English<br />
books and more than 60%<br />
of students achieving above<br />
grade level English, ISSP<br />
students are well prepared<br />
for secondary school at ISH-<br />
CMC or ISHCMC - American<br />
Academy.<br />
MONTESSORI<br />
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL<br />
42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel:<br />
(08) 3744 2639<br />
montessori.edu.vn<br />
Aiming to encourage children’s<br />
engagement with<br />
their surroundings, MIS offers<br />
children from age three<br />
to 12 a classic Montessori<br />
education as well as a variety<br />
of extra–curricular activities.<br />
RENAISSANCE<br />
INTERNATIONAL<br />
SCHOOL SAIGON<br />
74 Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7,<br />
Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext<br />
120/121/122<br />
renaissance.edu.vn<br />
Renaissance is an International<br />
British school providing<br />
an inclusive curriculum<br />
based upon the British curriculum<br />
complemented by<br />
the International Primary<br />
Curriculum and International<br />
Baccalaureate. It is a<br />
family school with first-class<br />
facilities including a 350-seat<br />
theatre, swimming pool,<br />
mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium,<br />
IT labs, music and<br />
drama rooms, science labs<br />
and an all-weather pitch.<br />
SAIGON KIDS<br />
EDUCATIONAL<br />
CHILDCARE CENTRE<br />
15 Street 12, Q2, Tel: (08)<br />
3740 8081<br />
saigonkidskindergarten.com<br />
SKECC has evolved over 10<br />
years to create a creative,<br />
playful learning environment<br />
for children ages two<br />
to six. Limited class sizes and<br />
highly engaged teachers ensure<br />
personal attention for<br />
all students.<br />
SAIGON SOUTH<br />
INTERNATIONAL<br />
SCHOOL (SSIS)<br />
78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel:<br />
(08) 5413 0901<br />
ssis.edu.vn<br />
Offers an American-style education<br />
(SAT, IB and AP) from<br />
elementary to high-school,<br />
emphasizing a multi–cultural<br />
student environment and a<br />
commitment to well–rounded<br />
education at all levels.<br />
SAIGON STAR<br />
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL<br />
Residential Area No. 5,<br />
Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08)<br />
3742 7827<br />
saigonstarschool.edu.vn<br />
Supported by the Cambridge<br />
International Primary<br />
Programme, SSIS integrates<br />
Montessori methods into<br />
nursery and kindergarten<br />
programmes to create a<br />
stimulating learning environment.<br />
Small class sizes<br />
allow experienced teachers<br />
to cater to individual needs.<br />
SMARTKIDS<br />
1172 Thao Dien Compound,<br />
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26,<br />
Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2,<br />
Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran<br />
Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:<br />
(08) 3519 4236<br />
smartkidsinfo.com<br />
This international childcare<br />
centre provides children ages<br />
18 months to six years with<br />
a high quality education in<br />
a playful and friendly environment.<br />
THE AMERICAN SCHOOL<br />
172-180 Nguyen Van Huong,<br />
Q2, Tel: 0903 952223<br />
tas.edu.vn<br />
Accredited by the Western<br />
Association of Schools and<br />
Colleges (WASC), TAS represents<br />
20 nationalities and<br />
provides an American-based<br />
curriculum with rigorous<br />
performance standards and<br />
a variety of academic offerings.<br />
Runs advanced placement<br />
courses and university<br />
credit courses through their<br />
partnership with Missouri<br />
State University, as well as<br />
an Intensive ESL Program for<br />
English Language Learners.<br />
M M M<br />
PROPERTY RENTALS<br />
CHUM’S HOUSE<br />
121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3920 7237<br />
EASY SAIGON<br />
Tel: 0932 112694<br />
easysaigon.com<br />
The Easy Saigon website is<br />
a useful real estate website<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 175
HCMC<br />
Essentials<br />
helping expats to find apartments<br />
in Ho Chi Minh City.<br />
Enquiries via their website<br />
are welcome.<br />
HAPPY HOUSE<br />
32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701,<br />
Q1, Tel: 01659 419916<br />
NAM HOUSE<br />
48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao<br />
Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700<br />
namhouse.com.vn<br />
Expert in providing rental<br />
properties, constructions<br />
and interior decoration,<br />
especially in District 2. Supports<br />
professional services<br />
and aftersales.<br />
RESIDENT VIETNAM<br />
Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu<br />
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855<br />
residentvietnam.com<br />
SNAP<br />
32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien,<br />
Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282<br />
snap.com.vn<br />
Owners of Snap Café in District<br />
2, Snap offers a web–<br />
based real estate search<br />
service with information on<br />
rental properties all around<br />
the city, as well as an advisory<br />
service for those averse<br />
to wading into the internet<br />
depths for their needs.<br />
THE NEST<br />
216/4 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,<br />
Tel: 0938 580800<br />
thenesthousing.com<br />
Well–known property search<br />
and real estate agency with<br />
a useful website listing properties<br />
available for rent and<br />
sale, orientated towards expats.<br />
Website is in English,<br />
French and Spanish.<br />
M M M<br />
MOTORBIKES<br />
CHI’S CAFÉ<br />
RENTALS<br />
185/30 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1,<br />
Tel: 0903 643446<br />
chiscafe.com<br />
Probably the best-known<br />
motorbike rental joint in<br />
town with over 200 bikes<br />
and a range of models and<br />
makes. Rents by the day or<br />
by the month. Call or check<br />
the website for details. Also<br />
does visa extensions.<br />
SAIGON BIKE RENTALS<br />
Tel: 0972 451273<br />
nga.natalie@gmail.com<br />
saigonbikerentals.com<br />
Rents out a range of models<br />
including Honda Waves,<br />
Yamaha Nouvos, Classicos,<br />
Luvias, SYM Attilas and<br />
Excels. Call for details and<br />
prices.<br />
SAIGON SCOOTER<br />
CENTRE<br />
RENTALS / CLASSIC SCOOTERS<br />
77a Hanoi Highway, Thao<br />
Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 013690<br />
saigonscootercentre.com<br />
Just relocated to its new<br />
home in District 2, Saigon<br />
Scooter Centre is more than<br />
just the place to go for all<br />
your classic scooter needs.<br />
Also does accessories, quality<br />
imported helmets and<br />
bike rentals.<br />
M M M<br />
RECRUITMENT & HR<br />
ADECCO VIETNAM<br />
11th floor, Empire Tower, 26<br />
- 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3915 3430<br />
adecco.com.vn<br />
Adecco is the world leader in<br />
human resources solutions.<br />
Established in <strong>Vietnam</strong> in<br />
2011, Adecco offers a wide<br />
array of global workforce<br />
solutions and specialises in<br />
finance & legal, sales, marketing<br />
& events, IT, engineering<br />
& technical, and office.<br />
HR2B/TALENT<br />
RECRUITMENT JSC<br />
1st Floor, Thien Son Building,<br />
5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel:<br />
(08) 6288 3888<br />
hr2b.com<br />
G.A. CONSULTANTS<br />
VIETNAM CO., LTD.<br />
Ho Chi Minh Office: Room<br />
2B-2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur,<br />
District 1, HCMC.<br />
vieclambank.com<br />
VIETNAMWORKS.COM<br />
130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1,<br />
Tel: (08) 5404 1373<br />
vietnamworks.com<br />
The best-known recruitment<br />
website in <strong>Vietnam</strong>. Post<br />
you’re the position you’re<br />
looking for and wait for the<br />
responses. You’ll get many.<br />
Also a good site for expat<br />
jobseekers.<br />
RELOCATION AGENTS<br />
AGS FOUR WINDS (VIET-<br />
NAM)<br />
5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A<br />
Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3521 0071<br />
agsfourwinds.com<br />
A global leader in international<br />
removals and relocations,<br />
with 130 offices globally, we<br />
can move your property to<br />
and from any location.<br />
ALLIED PICKFORDS<br />
12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building,<br />
21 Nguyen Trung Ngan,<br />
Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220<br />
alliedpickfords.com<br />
With more than 800 offices<br />
in over 45 countries, Allied<br />
Pickfords is one of the worldwide<br />
leaders in removal services.<br />
In <strong>Vietnam</strong>, Allied also<br />
provides tailored relocation<br />
services.<br />
ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY<br />
Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower, 9<br />
Doan Van Bo, Ward 12, District<br />
4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3 826 7799<br />
asiantigers-mobility.com<br />
Asian Tigers is one of the<br />
largest regional move management<br />
specialists, with services<br />
including door-to-door<br />
moving, housing and school<br />
searches, local and office<br />
moves and pet relocations.<br />
JVK INTERNATIONAL<br />
MOVERS<br />
1st Floor, Saigon Port Building,<br />
3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4,<br />
Tel: (08) 3826 7655<br />
jvkasia.com<br />
Focused primarily on the international<br />
and local movement<br />
of household goods,<br />
JVK is a leader in the field.<br />
LOGICAL MOVES<br />
— VIETNAM<br />
396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4,<br />
Tel: (08) 3941 5322<br />
logicalmoves.net<br />
Specialists in international,<br />
local, domestic and office<br />
moves for household goods<br />
and personal effects through<br />
our global partner network.<br />
Experts in exporting used<br />
scooters that do not have<br />
documentation.<br />
SANTA FE RELOCATION<br />
SERVICES<br />
8FL, Thien Son Building, 5<br />
Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel:<br />
(08) 3933 0065<br />
santaferelo.com<br />
With over 150 offices around<br />
the world, Santa Fe offers local<br />
and international moving,<br />
pet transportation, relocation<br />
services including home<br />
search, orientation, cultural<br />
training, immigration services<br />
and records management.<br />
Email <strong>Vietnam</strong>@santaferelo.<br />
com for info.<br />
SERVICED<br />
APARTMENTS<br />
DIAMOND ISLAND<br />
LUXURY RESIDENCES<br />
No 01 – Street No.104-BTT,<br />
Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay,<br />
Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 5678<br />
the-ascott.com<br />
Diamond Island Luxury<br />
Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished<br />
apartments, from<br />
two to four-bedroom units<br />
with spectacular panoramic<br />
views of the city. Each apartment<br />
comes with a fullyequipped<br />
kitchen, en-suite<br />
bathrooms, separate work<br />
and living areas, a balcony,<br />
modern amenities, elegant<br />
furnishings and carefully<br />
chosen trimmings.<br />
INTERCONTINENTAL<br />
ASIANA SAIGON<br />
RESIDENCES<br />
Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van<br />
Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888<br />
intercontinental.com/saigonres<br />
Adjacent to the InterContinental<br />
Asiana Saigon you’ll<br />
find 260 luxurious and spacious<br />
residential suites. The<br />
residences offer panoramic<br />
views of the downtown area.<br />
NORFOLK MANSION<br />
17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3822 6111<br />
norfolkmansion.com.vn<br />
Offers a wide choice of luxurious<br />
and modern furnished<br />
accommodation with attentive<br />
and discreet service.<br />
Facilities include an outdoor<br />
swimming pool, a gym, sauna<br />
and steam room, as well<br />
as two on-site restaurants.<br />
RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS<br />
53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel:<br />
(08) 3744 4111<br />
Riverside-apartments.com<br />
Over four Saigon Riverbank<br />
hectares, Riverside Apartments<br />
combines a resort<br />
lifestyle with the amenities<br />
of a fully serviced-apartment.<br />
Located minutes from downtown<br />
by high-speed boat<br />
shuttle.<br />
SHERWOOD RESIDENCE<br />
127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08)<br />
3823 2288<br />
sherwoodresidence.com<br />
Sherwood Residence is a<br />
luxurious serviced apartment<br />
property where modern<br />
living spaces meet prime<br />
location, comfort and class,<br />
with five–star facilities and<br />
service.<br />
SOMERSET SERVICED<br />
RESIDENCES<br />
8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1,<br />
Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23<br />
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1,<br />
Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C Hanoi<br />
Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel:<br />
(08) 6255 9922<br />
somerset.com<br />
Somerset Chancellor Court,<br />
Somerset Ho Chi Minh City<br />
and Somerset Vista Ho Chi<br />
Minh City serviced residences<br />
combine the space and privacy<br />
of an apartment with the<br />
services of a top-rated hotel.<br />
They come with separate living<br />
and dining areas, as well<br />
as a fully equipped kitchen<br />
where guests can prepare a<br />
meal for themselves, their<br />
family and friends.<br />
SPORTS & FITNESS<br />
CHIARA SQUINZI<br />
Tel: 01278 163620<br />
laholista.com<br />
Experienced health coach<br />
and corporate & school wellness<br />
coach. Can help clients<br />
achieve health and weight<br />
TATTOO<br />
ARTISTS<br />
With tattoos becoming<br />
increasingly popular,<br />
over the past few years<br />
there has been an<br />
increase in the number<br />
of tattoo studios around<br />
the city.<br />
Customers have the<br />
choice of picking their<br />
own tattoo out of the<br />
many look books on<br />
offer in the studios or<br />
bringing in their own<br />
design. Most of the<br />
studios offer bodypiercing<br />
services as<br />
well. Pricing depends<br />
on size and style.<br />
EXILE INK<br />
608<br />
57 Xuan Thuy, Q2,<br />
Tel: (08) 6675 6956<br />
exileinkvietnam.com<br />
SAIGON BODY<br />
ART<br />
135 Cong Quynh, Q1<br />
Tel: 0908 443311<br />
saigonbodyart.com<br />
SAIGON INK<br />
26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1<br />
Tel: (08) 3836 1090<br />
tattoovietnam.com<br />
SAIGON TATTOO<br />
31B Nguyen Du, Q1<br />
saigontattoo.net<br />
SPIRIT TATTOO<br />
206B Le Van Sy, Phu<br />
Nhuan, Tel: 01204<br />
738939 (Fiona)<br />
facebook.com/<br />
spirittatts<br />
Respected tattoo<br />
and body-piercing<br />
studio specialising in<br />
traditional Japanese,<br />
black and grey,<br />
portraiture, realism,<br />
western traditional,<br />
neo-traditional, dot<br />
work and geometric.<br />
TATTOO SAIGON<br />
128 Nguyen Cu Trinh,<br />
Q1<br />
Tel: 0938 303838<br />
tattoosaigon.com<br />
176 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
CINEMAS<br />
Showcasing the latest<br />
Hollywood blockbusters<br />
and 3D cinematic<br />
sensations, chains such<br />
as CGV, Lotte and<br />
Galaxy Cinema offer<br />
the most up-to-date and<br />
modern cinema-going<br />
experiences in Saigon.<br />
For those partial to more<br />
esoteric and<br />
independent flicks,<br />
smaller outlets such as<br />
Cinebox and Idecaf carry<br />
little known <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
and European efforts.<br />
CINEBOX<br />
240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10<br />
Tel: (08) 3862 2425<br />
cinebox.vn<br />
LOTTE CINEMA<br />
13th Floor, Diamond<br />
Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1<br />
Tel: (08) 38227897<br />
3rd Floor, Lotte Mart,<br />
469 Nguyen Huu Tho,<br />
Q7<br />
Tel: (08) 3775 2521<br />
lottecinemavn.com<br />
GALAXY CINEMA<br />
230 Nguyen Trai, Q1<br />
Tel: (08) 3920 6688<br />
116 Nguyen Du, Q1<br />
Tel: (08) 3823 5235<br />
246 Nguyen Hong Dao,<br />
Tan Binh<br />
Tel: (08) 3849 4567<br />
galaxycine.vn<br />
IDECAF<br />
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1<br />
Tel: (08) 3829 5451<br />
idecaf.gov.vn<br />
CGV CINEMAS<br />
Level 5, Crescent Mall,<br />
Nguyen Van Linh, Phu<br />
My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08)<br />
5412 2222; Level 10, CT<br />
Plaza, 60A Truong Son,<br />
Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6297<br />
1981; Level 2, Thao Dien<br />
Mall, 12 Quoc Huong,<br />
Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 3000;<br />
Level 5, SC VivoCity,<br />
1058 Nguyen Van Linh,<br />
Q7, Tel: (08) 3775 0555;<br />
Level 7, Hung Vuong<br />
Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong,<br />
Q5, Tel: (08) 2222 0388<br />
cgv.vn<br />
goals through an innovative<br />
holistic approach of food,<br />
body and mind. Email chiara@laholista.com<br />
for info.<br />
BODY AND MIND<br />
BOXING / FITNESS<br />
49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2, Tel: 0947<br />
771326<br />
cyril-and-you.com<br />
This sports centre in An<br />
Phu, started by fitness guru<br />
Cyril, features the same<br />
personalised mentorship<br />
Cyril's clients love. Includes<br />
yoga, boxing and fitness for<br />
kids and adults every day.<br />
No membership fees. Pay<br />
for classes. Tuesday to Friday<br />
every week at 5pm. All<br />
activities are safe and run<br />
by Cyril himself.<br />
NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2)<br />
GENERAL FITNESS<br />
34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel:<br />
(08) 3744 6672<br />
nutrifort.com<br />
A well-appointed gym also<br />
offering fitness classes and<br />
personal training with excellent<br />
facilities. Group classes<br />
include power yoga, pilates,<br />
circuit training, martial arts<br />
and spinning. Also has a<br />
restaurant serving calorie–<br />
calibrated meals.<br />
SAIGON HASH<br />
HOUSE HARRIERS<br />
saigonhash.com<br />
Sunday 2pm sharp, Caravelle<br />
hotel. Bus out to the<br />
county with a walk, usually<br />
4km and a run around 8km.<br />
VND150,000 for locals and<br />
VND220,000 for expats. Bus,<br />
water, snacks and freeflow<br />
beer after the run.<br />
SHERATON FITNESS<br />
HEALTH CLUB & GYM<br />
Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel<br />
and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi,<br />
Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828<br />
sheratonsaigon.com<br />
SOFITEL PLAZA<br />
FITNESS CENTRE<br />
HEALTH CLUB & GYM<br />
17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3824 1555<br />
A small but well-appointed<br />
gym with regular fitness<br />
classes, a steam room and<br />
sauna. Has a small but consistent<br />
membership.<br />
STAR FITNESS GYM<br />
HEALTH CLUB & GYM<br />
Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen<br />
Huu Canh, Binh Thanh,<br />
Tel: (08) 3514 0253<br />
Steve Chipman, who had a<br />
hand in establishing gyms<br />
at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi<br />
and Ho Chi Minh City, is<br />
behind Star Fitness — one of<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>’s largest and bestequipped<br />
gyms.<br />
THE LANDMARK CLUB<br />
GYM, POOL, SQUASH<br />
The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc<br />
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822<br />
2098 ext. 176<br />
thelandmarkvietnam.com<br />
In addition to the squash<br />
court, facilities include a<br />
fully–equipped gym room, a<br />
rooftop swimming pool and<br />
separate male and female<br />
saunas.<br />
VERTICAL ACADEMY<br />
CLIMBING GYM<br />
Truc Duong, Q2, Tel: 0966<br />
920612<br />
facebook.com/vertical.academy.vn<br />
A bouldering gym and pro<br />
climbing wall replete with<br />
a showroom and café offers<br />
something that this area has<br />
never experienced before, a<br />
place to climb. Has a number<br />
of climbing sections, runs<br />
training courses and also<br />
sells daily climbing passes<br />
for VND150,000 (for a 10-visit<br />
pass pay VND1 million).<br />
VETERINARY CLINICS<br />
ANIMAL DOCTORS<br />
INTERNATIONAL<br />
1 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien,<br />
Q2. (08) 6260 3980<br />
animaldoctors.vn<br />
Offers the very highest levels<br />
of compassionate, competent<br />
and professional veterinary<br />
medicine and surgery<br />
to all pets in Ho Chi Minh<br />
City with international veterinary<br />
surgeons. Upholding<br />
international standards, the<br />
team works tirelessly to help<br />
clients with the support of a<br />
dedicated surgical suite, digital<br />
X-Ray and comprehensive<br />
diagnostic facilities.<br />
VIETNAMESE CLASSES<br />
VIETNAMESE<br />
LANGUAGE GARDEN<br />
135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh<br />
Thanh, Tel: 0916 670 771<br />
vietnameselanguagegarden.<br />
com<br />
VLS SAIGON<br />
45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3910 0168<br />
vlstudies.com<br />
Offers courses ranging<br />
from basic conversational<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese to upper elementary,<br />
intermediate and<br />
advanced levels, as well as<br />
special courses including<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese literature, composition<br />
or a 6-hour survival<br />
crash course.<br />
SPORTS GARMENTS<br />
SCORE-TECH<br />
1870/3G An Phu Dong 3, Q12, Tel:<br />
(08) 3719 9588<br />
score-tech.net<br />
Apparel company offering<br />
personalised sport<br />
garments for companies,<br />
schools and professional<br />
sports clubs using the latest<br />
printing technology with a<br />
design team from Barcelona.<br />
Score-Tech controls the<br />
whole production process<br />
from fabric production and<br />
printing to sewing. Big and<br />
small orders for all sporting<br />
and commercial needs.<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 177
BAR STOOL<br />
PIU PIU<br />
In the four months since its grand<br />
opening, Piu Piu has arrived in Saigon<br />
with such a splash upon the social<br />
scene, it’s hard to remember what we<br />
were doing before it found its feet.<br />
Located behind the Opera House on Hai<br />
Ba Trung, this bar has provided a muchneeded<br />
departure from rooftop cocktail bars<br />
and chic clubs, a down-to-earth place to<br />
experience local musicians with a billiondong<br />
view and decently priced drinks.<br />
What makes Piu Piu stand apart is that<br />
it is not just a bar, but also a community<br />
space; since April the events have ranged<br />
from weeknight networking, language<br />
practice, comedy nights and spokenword<br />
performance, to heavy sweat<br />
hip-hop shows and drum ’n bass in the<br />
soundproofed, second-floor fridge stage.<br />
This means that anyone can come<br />
and find something they love at Piu Piu,<br />
because not every night consists solely of<br />
drink and dance, though you can guarantee<br />
that most weekend nights will end that<br />
way. Each of the bar’s three floors offer<br />
a different style of music and relaxation;<br />
the first floor is for live music, the second<br />
floor for insane dancing, and the third floor<br />
disco, soul, and good conversations over<br />
delicious drinks.<br />
A Beautiful Friendship<br />
Thibault Guincet and Lee Lam have been<br />
friends for the past 15 years and dreamt<br />
of running their own space together for<br />
the past 10 years; now they get to live<br />
out that dream in Saigon. Their passion<br />
lies in creating a space where anyone can<br />
feel comfortable partying, and helping to<br />
develop the local musical talents garner a<br />
following and a regular venue.<br />
“We’ve been approached by artists we<br />
host to create a Piu Piu mixtape,” says Lee,<br />
“and we want to stay involved in helping<br />
to develop the local music scene as much<br />
as possible.”<br />
178 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
PHOTOS BY MIKE PALUMBO<br />
Piu Piu has partnered with the already<br />
successful My Chicken Run for food and<br />
snacks, with the menu prices starting at<br />
VND20,000 for popcorn and VND45,000<br />
for fries with bigger menu items such as<br />
meals and burgers costing VND200,000.<br />
Though Piu Piu doesn’t yet have table<br />
service, they are renovating their first-floor<br />
space to include an open kitchen/dinerstyle<br />
area for people to come and fulfil<br />
their late night food cravings in between<br />
DJ sets and socialising.<br />
Thibault, who has had past experience<br />
as a Parisian cocktail specialist, is the brains<br />
behind the drinks that get the crowd going on<br />
a Saturday night. One current favourite of my<br />
own is the Ginger Margarita (VND130,000)<br />
served up in a martini glass with a sprinkle of<br />
pepper to complement the fruity passionfruit.<br />
There are hints of some more complex<br />
flavours to the drink, the tequila dominates<br />
the palate while the elderflower and<br />
lemongrass tickle the taste buds.<br />
One of the new additions to the menu is<br />
the Bourbeezy (VND150,000), Thibault’s take<br />
on a traditional southern mint julep, served<br />
up ice-cold in a copper mug, and adorned<br />
with mint and lime. Even with the slightly<br />
silly name, this drink goes down deliciously<br />
on a steamy Saigon day. Containing<br />
homemade saffron syrup, almond liquor<br />
and bourbon, this was just what I needed to<br />
quench my thirst on a Friday afternoon.<br />
With such a packed social calendar and<br />
the amount of developments going on, it’s<br />
hard to imagine what else the Piu Piu team<br />
are dreaming up next, however there are<br />
many plans on the horizon for the venue.<br />
Lee and Thibault can envision a Piu Piu<br />
Out festival one day, and even dream of<br />
opening more locations beyond Saigon. —<br />
Siân Kavanagh<br />
Piu Piu is at 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, HCMC.<br />
For more information click on facebook.com/<br />
piupiusaigon<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 179
HCMC<br />
On The Town<br />
BARS & CLUBS<br />
2 LAM SON<br />
(MARTINI BAR)<br />
TOP-END INTERNATIONAL<br />
Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1,<br />
Tel: (08) 3824 1234<br />
saigon.park.hyatt.com<br />
International décor blends<br />
seamlessly with local<br />
themes. Style joins forces<br />
with a wide-ranging drink<br />
menu and hip dance tunes<br />
to create one of the most<br />
tasteful if pricier bars in<br />
Saigon.<br />
ACOUSTIC BAR<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel:<br />
(08) 3930 2239<br />
Though only 1km from the<br />
city centre, Acoustic is well<br />
off most foreigners’ radars.<br />
Come see the <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
house band play nightly, as<br />
well as performances from<br />
overseas bands and guest<br />
artists.<br />
APOCALYPSE NOW<br />
DANCE / NIGHTCLUB<br />
2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3825 6124<br />
apocalypsesaigon.com<br />
An institution and the kind of<br />
place you end up drunk after<br />
midnight. Famed for its notso-salubrious<br />
clientele, this<br />
two-floor establishment with<br />
DJs and occasional live music<br />
is also famed for its hotdogs,<br />
which are served up in the<br />
garden terrace out back.<br />
BIA CRAFT<br />
CRAFT BEER BAR<br />
90 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: (08)<br />
3744 2588<br />
biacraft.com<br />
As craft beer continues to<br />
take over watering holes<br />
around Ho Chi Minh City, so<br />
a bar dedicated to all things<br />
‘craft’ and ‘real ale’ seems<br />
like a pretty sensible idea,<br />
right? Well, it is. Only small,<br />
but with wooden tables perfect<br />
for sharing, both on tap<br />
and by the bottle, Bia Craft<br />
sells up a delectable range of<br />
the good stuff. Looking for Tiger?<br />
Go take a hike. Also has<br />
a decent food menu.<br />
BLANCHY’S TASH<br />
RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB<br />
95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 0909<br />
028293<br />
blanchystash.com<br />
A multi-storey bar with décor<br />
and atmosphere more akin<br />
to such an establishment in<br />
New York or London. Has a<br />
reputation for bringing in<br />
big-name DJs. And when we<br />
say big, we mean big. Check<br />
their website for details.<br />
BREAD & BUTTER<br />
INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD<br />
40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3836 8452<br />
With a free book exchange,<br />
and tasty Sunday night<br />
roasts, the tiny Bread &<br />
Butter is a perfect place for<br />
homesick expats and beer<br />
enthusiasts (excellent Hue-<br />
Brewed Huda beer served<br />
here exclusively in Ho Chi<br />
Minh City).<br />
BROMA, NOT A BAR<br />
COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP<br />
41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3823 6838<br />
Broma’s medieval rooftopcocktail<br />
lounge conglomeration<br />
is a magnet for the city’s<br />
weirdest and coolest events/<br />
random moments. A sophisticated<br />
cocktail menu and<br />
quite possibly the best lamb<br />
burger in town. Check out<br />
their bun bo Hue-inspired<br />
cocktail.<br />
BUDDHA BAR<br />
RESTOBAR<br />
7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)<br />
3345 6345<br />
Buddhabarsaigon.com<br />
Just across the lane from<br />
Mc’Sorley’s, this pub with an<br />
eccentric European tilt and<br />
some nice, authentic cuisine<br />
draws an older crowd with<br />
darts, pool and weekly poker<br />
tourneys.<br />
CHAMPION SPORTS BAR<br />
SPORTS BAR<br />
45-47 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3920 4202<br />
A recent addition to the<br />
sports-and-watering-hole<br />
drinking scene, Champion<br />
is located in the Backpackers’<br />
area and shows all the<br />
major televised sports. Also<br />
has a pool table, darts, tasty<br />
Western and <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
food, great cocktails and ice<br />
cold beer. Western managed,<br />
wonderful local staff. #BeA-<br />
Champion.<br />
CHILL SKYBAR<br />
TOP-END BAR & TERRACE<br />
Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai,<br />
Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372<br />
chillsaigon.com<br />
For the spectacular views<br />
alone, Chill Skybar remains<br />
the place to go to mix topend,<br />
outdoor terrace drinking<br />
around an oval-shaped bar<br />
with cityscapes of Saigon.<br />
One of the top watering<br />
holes in the city.<br />
D2<br />
SPORTS BAR<br />
55, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)<br />
3744 5453<br />
What does the Thao Dien<br />
area of Saigon seriously lack?<br />
A sports bar. And this is the<br />
Al Fresco Group’s answer to a<br />
distinct shortage hole in the<br />
market. Sleek lines, modern<br />
décor, elegant and spacious,<br />
dartboards and of course,<br />
lots of large screens to watch<br />
the televised sports. Check<br />
out their daily food specials.<br />
EON HELI BAR<br />
LOUNGE BAR<br />
Level 52, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai<br />
Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750<br />
eon51.com<br />
Breathtaking views require a<br />
vantage point and EON Heli<br />
Bar is by far the highest spot<br />
in Saigon for a spectacular<br />
cityscape, appealing drinks<br />
and a vibrant ambience.<br />
Night live music and DJs.<br />
GAME ON<br />
SPORTS BAR<br />
115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: (08)<br />
6251 9898<br />
gameonsaigon.com<br />
A fresh feel thanks to the<br />
large space and light-wood<br />
tables makes this Australian-influenced<br />
watering hole<br />
a popular bar for televised<br />
sports, pub food, darts, pool<br />
and more.<br />
HOA VIEN<br />
CZECH BREWHOUSE<br />
28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3825 8605<br />
hoavien.vn<br />
The original microbrewery,<br />
this large, wooden-panelled,<br />
brass-kegged Czech<br />
Brewhouse is as popular as<br />
it was 15 years ago when<br />
it was first opened. Does a<br />
great food menu to accompany<br />
the home-brewed beer.<br />
ICE BLUE<br />
EXPAT BAR<br />
24 Hai Ba Trung, Q1<br />
One of this city’s longest running<br />
watering holes — and<br />
the original home of the<br />
darts league — has recently<br />
reopened in its new premises.<br />
Naturally, darts are still<br />
key here, with each of the<br />
bottom three floors having<br />
elements devoted to this<br />
most pub-friendly of sports.<br />
LA HABANA<br />
CUBAN / MUSIC BAR<br />
6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3829 5180<br />
lahabana-saigon.com<br />
Cuban-themed bar and restaurant<br />
selling an exciting<br />
range of Spanish and Cuban<br />
cuisine, as well as a few German<br />
favourites such as curry<br />
wurst and Wiener schnitzel.<br />
Nightly live music and regular<br />
salsa classes.<br />
LA FENETRE SOLEIL<br />
FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR<br />
44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3824 5994<br />
A seductive watering whole<br />
in a great corner location<br />
thanks to its old Saigon<br />
glamour, Japanese-<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
fusion cuisine, imported<br />
beer, classic cocktails, and<br />
entertaining music events<br />
/ DJ sets.<br />
LAST CALL<br />
AFTERHOURS LOUNGE<br />
59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3823 3122<br />
lastcallsaigon.com<br />
If you’re in need of dense,<br />
soulful atmosphere and<br />
maybe an artisanal cocktail<br />
on your way back from wherever,<br />
Last Call is your stop<br />
— and fast becoming that of<br />
the similarly inclined. Great<br />
happy hour deals for early<br />
evening starters.<br />
LE PUB<br />
INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR<br />
175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1,<br />
Tel: (08) 3837 7679<br />
Warm colors, artsy décor and<br />
a friendly ambiance combine<br />
to create a perfect setting for<br />
enjoying tasty international<br />
and <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese cuisine.<br />
Gets busy at weekends with<br />
a clientele made up of hip,<br />
young <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese and the<br />
occasional foreigner.<br />
LONG PHI<br />
FRENCH / RESTOBAR<br />
207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3837 2704<br />
French-run but universally<br />
appealing, Long Phi has been<br />
serving the backpacker area<br />
with excellent cuisine and<br />
occasional live music since<br />
1990. Excellent late-night<br />
bistro cuisine.<br />
MALT<br />
GAMES & CRAFT BEER BAR<br />
46-48 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1<br />
Malt is a non-smoking bar<br />
in downtown Saigon offering<br />
shuffleboard, darts, craft<br />
beers on tap, signature cocktails<br />
and delicious tapas and<br />
pub grub. Its unpretentious<br />
vibe and casual atmosphere<br />
will have you feeling at<br />
home.<br />
MAY RESTAURANT<br />
& BAR<br />
LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR<br />
19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
6291 3686<br />
mayrestaurant.com.vn<br />
An international comfortfood<br />
menu mixes with<br />
excellent cocktails and an<br />
extensive winelist at this<br />
attractive, international bar<br />
and restaurant. Dine at the<br />
bar or upstairs in the restaurant<br />
space.<br />
NUMBER FIVE<br />
EXPAT BAR<br />
44 Pasteur, Q1<br />
The original expat bar, this<br />
institution of a place gets<br />
packed every night thanks to<br />
its drinking hall atmosphere,<br />
attractive bar staff and German<br />
food menu. Has regular<br />
live music.<br />
OMG!<br />
FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR<br />
Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen<br />
An Ninh, Q1<br />
A contemporary and attractive<br />
rooftop restaurant with<br />
DELIVERY<br />
BEN STYLE<br />
Tel: 0906 912730<br />
www.<br />
vietnammm.com/<br />
restaurants-ben-style<br />
CHEZ GUIDO<br />
Tel: (08) 3898 3747<br />
www.chezguido.com<br />
DOMINO’S PIZZA<br />
Tel: (08) 3939 3030<br />
www.dominos.vn<br />
EAT.VN<br />
www.eat.vn<br />
HUNGRYPANDA.<br />
VN<br />
www.hungrypanda.vn<br />
KFC<br />
Tel: (08) 3848 9999<br />
www.kfcvietnam.<br />
com.vn<br />
LOTTERIA<br />
Tel: (08) 3910 0000<br />
www.lotteria.vn<br />
PIZZA HUT (PHD)<br />
Tel: (08) 3838 8388<br />
www.pizzahut.vn<br />
SCOOZI<br />
Tel: (08) 3823 5795<br />
www.scoozipizza.com<br />
TACO BICH<br />
www.tacobich.com<br />
VIETNAMMM<br />
www.vietnammm.com<br />
180 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
a lounge bar just 50m from Ben<br />
Thanh Market. Features a glass<br />
shell modeled in the image of<br />
the Eiffel Tower, a jungle-like atmosphere<br />
and views over central<br />
Saigon.<br />
O’BRIEN’S<br />
IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL<br />
74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3829 3198<br />
irish-barsaigon.com<br />
This Irish-themed sports bar with<br />
classic pub décor is widely appreciated<br />
for its excellent international<br />
fare, large whiskey selection<br />
and upstairs pool table. Great pizzas.<br />
And for a real treat, check out<br />
their zesty rolls.<br />
ONTOP BAR<br />
Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba Trung,<br />
Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866<br />
Located on the 20th floor with<br />
stunning views of the city, houses<br />
an upscale, contemporary interior<br />
and an outdoor terrace. A good<br />
venue to chill out in a relaxed and<br />
casual, yet hip ambience.<br />
PEACHES<br />
CURRY PUB<br />
S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung,<br />
Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0999<br />
Known as the ‘Curry Pub’, this<br />
pleasant Saigon South watering<br />
hole mixes the beer with all<br />
things curry — anything from Goan<br />
fish curries to beef rendangs and<br />
more. A popular local haunt.<br />
PHATTY’S<br />
AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS<br />
46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3821 0796<br />
phattysbar.com<br />
From its roots as the famed Café<br />
Latin, Phatty’s has become the goto,<br />
Aussie beer-guzzling / sports<br />
viewing emporium, showing everything<br />
from international cricket<br />
to Aussie rules and serving an array<br />
of pub grub favourites.<br />
PITCHERS SPORTS AND GRILL<br />
SPORTS BAR & GRILL RESTAURANT<br />
C0.01 Riverside Residence C,<br />
Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel: (08)<br />
6274 1520<br />
facebook.com/PitchersPMH<br />
Located in the heart of Phu My<br />
Hung, this spacious restobar with<br />
an affection for showing televised<br />
sports has a family friendly edge<br />
thanks to its kids play area. Does a<br />
great grill menu and of course, lots<br />
of very cold beer for those developing<br />
a thirst in the Saigon heat.<br />
QUI LOUNGE<br />
INTERNATIONAL BAR & LOUNGE<br />
22 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3828<br />
8828<br />
quilounge.com<br />
A recently opened, stylish top-end<br />
bar with a house DJ that is the<br />
plaything of Saigon’s jetset and<br />
anyone who is prepared to pay<br />
for atmosphere and one of the<br />
most hedonistic venues in town.<br />
Has an excellent food menu and<br />
a tasty brunch.<br />
RUBY SOHO<br />
CARTOON BAR<br />
S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel: (08)<br />
5410 3900<br />
A Phu My Hung mainstay thanks<br />
to its cartoon décor and light but<br />
fun ambience. Has a reasonable<br />
food menu to complement the<br />
drinks.<br />
SAIGON SOUL POOL PARTY<br />
POOL & DAY CLUB<br />
New World Saigon Hotel, 76 Le<br />
Lai, Q1<br />
saigonsoul.com<br />
The ultimate in poolside entertainment,<br />
Saigon Soul is defined by<br />
its great party atmosphere. Booming<br />
house music, cold drinks and<br />
beautiful people. What better way<br />
to spend a Saturday? Runs every<br />
Saturday from late November until<br />
mid May.<br />
SAIGON OUTCAST<br />
EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAFÉ BAR<br />
188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel:<br />
0122 4283198<br />
Saigonoutcast.com<br />
Up-cycling and innovative design<br />
form the foundation for this bar /<br />
arts venue / mini-skate park and<br />
graffiti space. Come for barbeque<br />
and reasonably priced drinks, stick<br />
around for entertaining events and<br />
markets.<br />
SAIGON RANGER<br />
ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT<br />
5/7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
7300 0559<br />
facebook.com/saigonranger<br />
Aspiring to be a focal point for<br />
artistic activities, the space at<br />
Saigon Ranger has been established<br />
to create encounter and<br />
dialogue between different forms<br />
of art. Boasts concrete floors, dark<br />
wooden furniture, quirky wall designs<br />
and a stage for live music<br />
and other types of performance.<br />
SAIGON SAIGON BAR<br />
LIVE MUSIC / ROOFTOP BAR<br />
9th Floor, Caravelle Saigon, 19-<br />
23 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3823 4999<br />
caravellehotel.com<br />
This iconic bar is a great place to<br />
watch the sun go down over the<br />
city and relax for a few drinks with<br />
friends. Has live entertainment six<br />
nights a week courtesy of resident<br />
Cuban band, Q’vans, from 9pm<br />
Wednesday to Monday.<br />
SHRINE BAR<br />
LOUNGE BAR<br />
61 Ton Thap Thiep, Q1<br />
shrinebarsaigon.com<br />
Shrine creates a drinking and dining<br />
experience in a temple-like<br />
atmosphere. Inspired by Bantay<br />
Srei, a temple from the ancient<br />
Angkor kingdom, the walls are<br />
covered in statues depicting<br />
ancient Khmer gods and kings.<br />
With ambient lighting and town<br />
tempo music, here it’s all about<br />
good cocktails and an even better<br />
atmosphere.<br />
SEVENTEEN SALOON<br />
THEMED MUSIC BAR<br />
103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3914 0007<br />
seventeensaloon.com.vn<br />
Wild West-themed bar doubles<br />
as a music venue, where three<br />
talented Filipino bands (B&U,<br />
Wild West and Most Wanted)<br />
play covers of rock icons like Bon<br />
Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses. Top<br />
shelf spirits and friendly, hostess<br />
style table service are the name<br />
game here.<br />
STORM P<br />
DANISH / INTERNATIONAL<br />
5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827<br />
4738<br />
Stormp.vn<br />
Named after the Danish artist<br />
Storm P, this long-running bar is<br />
the home of Saigon’s Scandinavian<br />
community thanks to its laid-back<br />
atmosphere and excellent food<br />
menu. A good place to watch the<br />
live sports.<br />
THE CUBE BAR<br />
HIP RESTOBAR<br />
31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0903<br />
369798<br />
facebook.com/thecubesaigon<br />
A sleek, industrial looking restobar<br />
with edgy décor and just a hint<br />
of Spanish style. Tapas, sangria,<br />
Iberian-influenced cocktails and<br />
an emphasis on all things Latin.<br />
THE OBSERVATORY<br />
BAR, ART & DJ SPACE<br />
5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, (Opposite<br />
Elisa Boat)<br />
Known for its late night parties<br />
and focus on international artists,<br />
Observatory is now at a bigger<br />
space in District 4. Complete with<br />
a new balcony overlooking the<br />
Saigon River and an even larger<br />
sound system, The Observatory is<br />
a key node in the Asian underground<br />
music circuit.<br />
THE SOCIETY<br />
GRILL AND LOUNGE BAR<br />
99 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 3999<br />
facebook.com/TheSocietyHCM<br />
Designed as a Laneway-style<br />
restobar, the kind of place found<br />
in Hong Kong, London, New York<br />
or Central Melbourne, thanks to<br />
its indoor and outdoor ambience,<br />
The Society brings dining and<br />
drinking to a new level. Phenomenal<br />
cocktails, steaks, grilled fare<br />
and seafood make this a place to<br />
go for drinks, a full-blown meal or<br />
a mixture of both.<br />
THE TAVERN<br />
EXPAT & SPORTS BAR<br />
R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan,<br />
Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900<br />
The first bar established in Saigon<br />
South, great food, great music and<br />
loads of laughs. Has regular live<br />
music nights, theme nights and a variety of<br />
live sports events to please everybody. Big<br />
screens and outdoor seating add to the mix,<br />
with BBQs available for parties and events.<br />
VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE<br />
INTERNATIONAL<br />
Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1,<br />
Tel: (08) 3822 9698<br />
facebook.com/vespersaigon<br />
A sophisticated yet down-to-earth cocktail<br />
bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and<br />
one of the best spirit selections in town.<br />
Serves creative, Japanese and German-influenced<br />
cuisine to supplement the drinks.<br />
VINYL BAR<br />
MUSIC & SPORTS BAR<br />
70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 890623<br />
vinylbarsaigon.com<br />
A small but popular bar with all the shenanigans<br />
of the nightlife scene set to a backdrop<br />
of classic 60s, 70s and 80s tunes. Has a darts<br />
area out back and is a popular space for<br />
watching the live English Premier League.<br />
WINE BAR 38<br />
CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR<br />
38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3968<br />
With a huge selection of self-imported wines<br />
from Bordeaux, this classy but contemporary<br />
venue is a wine bar downstairs, and a lounge<br />
on the first floor. Has a French-Asian menu<br />
paired to all the wines, with a huge selection<br />
of the good stuff sold by the glass.<br />
XU<br />
CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR<br />
71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8468<br />
xusaigon.com<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 181
COFFEE CUP<br />
UT LANH<br />
PHOTOS BY MICHAEL PALUMBO<br />
Hidden in an alley off the sleepless<br />
backpacker area, Ut Lanh stands<br />
out with its peaceful and vintage<br />
look. Even the signboard is<br />
reminiscent of an old advertisement in<br />
Saigon newspapers of the 1970s.<br />
Ut Lanh is small. The space consists of<br />
a 20-square-metre ground floor and a tiny<br />
mezzanine, furnished with ageless tables,<br />
chairs and a cupboard — a typical southern<br />
wooden flat. Small details including<br />
floral plastic tablecloths, vases made from<br />
tin cans, framed posters, old-fashioned<br />
electric fans, an old cassette player which<br />
the background music is played through,<br />
an old box-style TV and floor tiles, which<br />
were selectively collected and arranged.<br />
Everything is designed to bring the feel of<br />
old Saigon alive.<br />
Remembering Childhood<br />
I grew up enjoying tiny packs of pickled<br />
fruits, finger-shaped tubes of candies,<br />
pocket-sized boxes of dried beef and other<br />
favourite snacks. And now I can find them at<br />
Ut Lanh. I bought three packs of xi muoi hoa<br />
mai (sweet and sour candies) for VND10,000<br />
and slowly enjoyed them.<br />
Don’t come here if you are looking for<br />
modern drinks like you would get at Phuc<br />
Long or Starbucks. What you can find here are<br />
traditional Saigonese coffee and drinks. You can<br />
go for either an iced black coffee without sugar<br />
or a beautifully green pandan juice with milk.<br />
Or a salt-pickled lime is also a good choice.<br />
What’s special about this place is that all<br />
of the traditional drinks are homemade, and<br />
priced from VND35,000. And if you’re in the<br />
mood for a beer, they also serve green and<br />
red Saigon beer for VND30,000 a bottle.<br />
The charm of Ut Lanh doesn’t lie only in<br />
the decoration, snacks and drinks, but also in<br />
the way they take care of their clients, with a<br />
10 percent discount for any take-away. They<br />
also pay your VND5,000 bike parking fee.<br />
But perhaps Ut Lanh's greatest service is<br />
the ability to enjoy the slow life when you<br />
stow your phone out of sight while at the<br />
cafe. — Vu Ha Kim Vy<br />
Ut Lanh is at 283/37 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1,<br />
HCMC<br />
182 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 183
HCMC<br />
On The Town<br />
This iconic upmarket downtown<br />
bar is known for its<br />
cocktails and wine list. It<br />
serves a range of international<br />
and <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese dishes<br />
to be enjoyed in its richly<br />
decorated interior. Regular<br />
DJ nights.<br />
CAFES & ICE-CREAM<br />
(A) CAFE<br />
15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da<br />
Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701<br />
Settle into the Javanesestyle<br />
interior and enjoy possibly<br />
one of the best brews<br />
in Saigon. Using own grown<br />
and specially sourced Dalat<br />
beans, speciality coffee such<br />
as cold drip, siphon, and<br />
Chemex are must haves for<br />
the avid coffee drinker.<br />
AGNES CAFE<br />
DALAT COFFEE HOUSE<br />
11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)<br />
6281 9772<br />
A cozy and comfortable cafe<br />
in Thao Dien serving excellent<br />
fresh coffee from Dalat,<br />
smoothies, juices, homemade<br />
desserts. Offers up<br />
tasty breakfasts, lunch and<br />
dinner all the way through<br />
until 9pm.<br />
BANKSY CAFE<br />
1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1,<br />
Tel: 01699 990003<br />
sam.nguyen197@gmail.com<br />
A small but swanky cafe,<br />
Banksy promises a young<br />
and vibrant hideout in an<br />
old 1960s-era apartment<br />
building. Remember to head<br />
up the steep stairs within to<br />
dig into their secret stash of<br />
clothes and accessories.<br />
CAFE THOAI VIEN<br />
159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1,<br />
Tel: 0918 115657<br />
cafethoaivien.com<br />
Veer off the street and find<br />
yourself plunging straight<br />
into lush greenery. Cafe<br />
Thoai Vien serves up a<br />
spacious and airy setting<br />
to enjoy a quiet sip. From<br />
small eats to big bites and<br />
everything to drink, it’s a<br />
great place to unwind from<br />
all that buzz.<br />
COFFEE BEAN &<br />
TEA LEAF<br />
INTERNATIONAL<br />
157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc,<br />
Q1; Metropolitan Building,<br />
235 Dong Khoi, Q1<br />
coffeebean.com.vn<br />
Large portioned coffee lures<br />
customers into the flagship<br />
store of this international<br />
café chain. The contemporary,<br />
yet generic atmosphere<br />
is bolstered by comfortable<br />
seating and a menu to satisfy<br />
any sweet tooth.<br />
DECIBEL<br />
INTERNATIONAL<br />
79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 6271 0115<br />
Decibel.vn<br />
Trendy without pretense,<br />
this two-floor, relaxed café<br />
offers beautiful decor and<br />
unique original events like<br />
live music, film screenings,<br />
and art exhibits. Great prices<br />
and food with daily specials.<br />
GUANABANA SMOOTHIES<br />
CONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR<br />
23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0909<br />
824830<br />
guanabanasmoothies.com<br />
An American-style juice<br />
bar and café dedicated<br />
to healthy, nutricious<br />
smoothies that avoid the local<br />
obsession with sugar and<br />
condensed milk. A pleasant,<br />
contemporary environment<br />
adds to the theme.<br />
HIDEAWAY<br />
INTERNATIONAL<br />
41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3,<br />
Tel: (08) 3822 4222<br />
Hideawaycafe-saigon.com<br />
Hidden in a colonial building<br />
with an outdoor courtyard,<br />
the ample soft, sofa seating<br />
renders a great spot to<br />
relax. The mouth-watering<br />
western menu is well-priced<br />
and maintains a creative flair.<br />
I.D. CAFÉ<br />
CONTEMPORARY CAFE<br />
34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3822 2910<br />
Idcafe.net<br />
Centrally located near Ben<br />
Thanh Market, i.d offers casual<br />
café dining with a wide<br />
variety of food and beverages.<br />
Where modern design<br />
and a warm ambience meet<br />
for coffee.<br />
KLASIK COFFEE<br />
ROASTERS<br />
CAFE AND ON-SITE ROASTING<br />
40 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
6685 4160<br />
klasik.coffee<br />
Nitro cold brew coffee, single<br />
origin coffee and healthy<br />
food. Klasik Coffee Roasters<br />
is a small coffee shop with<br />
a passion for seeking high<br />
quality coffee beans from<br />
around the world to roast<br />
in Saigon. Holding the belief<br />
that each cup tells its own<br />
story, drinking coffee at<br />
Klasik is all about pleasure<br />
and experience: the aroma,<br />
the taste, the warmth and<br />
the senses inspired by each<br />
and every cup. Open daily<br />
from 7am to 10pm.<br />
L’USINE<br />
CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH<br />
First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1,<br />
Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B Le<br />
Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0703<br />
lusinespace.com<br />
French-style wooden decor<br />
compliments the spacious,<br />
whitewashed contemporary<br />
interior of L’Usine. A simple,<br />
creative menu combines<br />
with reasonably priced coffee,<br />
and a fashion store and<br />
art gallery out back. Second<br />
location on Le Loi.<br />
M2C CAFE<br />
44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3822 2495<br />
facebook.com/m2ccafe<br />
At M2C (Modern Meets<br />
Culture), everything gets a<br />
touch of modernity. From<br />
the rich menu of <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
food and drinks, shows<br />
immense local culture, done<br />
with a modern flare. Be seen<br />
here at one of the latest popular<br />
joint in town.<br />
MOCKINGBIRD CAFE<br />
4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,<br />
Q1, Tel: 0935 293400<br />
facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee<br />
Sitting atop of a number of<br />
cafe establishments in an old<br />
apartment complex, Mockingbird<br />
is just the place for<br />
a romantic time over mojitos,<br />
or good ol’ caffeine-infused<br />
relaxation.<br />
PLANTRIP CHA<br />
TEA ROOM<br />
8A/10B1 Thai Van Lung, Q1<br />
Tel: 0945 830905<br />
Tea, tea and more tea, all in<br />
a contemporary, quirky environment.<br />
At Plantrip Cha<br />
customers go on a sensory<br />
journey to experience the<br />
tastes and smells of teas<br />
from across Asia, Europe,<br />
America and the Middle East.<br />
THE LOOP<br />
HEALTHY CAFÉ FARE / BAGELS<br />
49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08)<br />
3602 6385<br />
Low-key yet nice-on-the-eye<br />
décor helps create the caféstyle<br />
atmosphere at this European-influenced<br />
café and<br />
restaurant. Sells excellent<br />
coffee and if you like bagels,<br />
here you’ll be in heaven.<br />
THE MORNING CAFE<br />
2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel:<br />
0938 383330<br />
themorningcafe.com.vn<br />
Have a book to read? Pick<br />
a bright spot by the window<br />
and get snuggly with<br />
the comfy upholstery in<br />
this second-floor cafe. With<br />
a cup of well-brewed coffee,<br />
accompanied by some<br />
background jazz, it is an<br />
afternoon well-spent.<br />
THE OTHER<br />
PERSON CAFE<br />
2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,<br />
Q1, Tel: 0909 670272<br />
facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe<br />
Fancy being served up by<br />
maids in costume? Call for<br />
a booking and enjoyed customized<br />
service to your liking<br />
while spending an afternoon<br />
in this candy-land inspired<br />
cafe.<br />
THE PRINT ROOM<br />
CONTEMPORARY CAFE<br />
158 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3823 4990<br />
Second-storey coffeehouse<br />
offers a quiet atmosphere to<br />
chill out or read from their<br />
book-nook collection. Comfortable<br />
couch seating, open<br />
table space and a cappuccino<br />
costs VND40,000.<br />
THINGS CAFE<br />
1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,<br />
Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205<br />
facebook.com/thingscafe<br />
Feel the calm and serenity<br />
of this rustic little quiet corner<br />
tucked away in an Old<br />
Apartment. The quaint and<br />
relaxing atmosphere sets for<br />
some alone time, or quality<br />
conversations held over a<br />
drink or two.<br />
EAT<br />
3T QUAN NUONG<br />
VIETNAMESE BBQ<br />
Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep,<br />
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631<br />
The original, on-the-table<br />
barbecue restaurant still<br />
goes strong thanks to its<br />
rooftop atmosphere, excellent<br />
service and even better<br />
fish, seafood and meats. An<br />
institution.<br />
27 GRILL<br />
GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT<br />
Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai,<br />
Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372<br />
chillsaigon.com<br />
Besides the spectacular<br />
views, the cuisine at 27 Grill<br />
is a real draw, with steaks<br />
and other international grillstyle<br />
fare in a refined yet contemporary<br />
atmosphere. Subtle<br />
lighting and an extensive<br />
wine list make up the mix.<br />
AL FRESCO’S<br />
INTERNATIONAL<br />
27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
38238424<br />
alfrescosgroup.com<br />
184 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
The downtown outlet of one<br />
of <strong>Vietnam</strong>’s most successful<br />
restaurant chains, Al Fresco’s<br />
offers international, Australian-influenced<br />
comfort<br />
fare in a pleasant environment<br />
with efficient, friendly<br />
service to match. Also has<br />
an excellent garden-style<br />
branch at 89 Xuan Thuy, Q2.<br />
AU LAC DO BRAZIL<br />
BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO<br />
238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820<br />
7157<br />
aulacdobrazil.com<br />
Au Lac Do Brazil is home to<br />
the city's best Churrasco<br />
menu with a wide variety of<br />
meats from Calabrian sausage<br />
and picanha through<br />
to D-rump steak and smoked<br />
hams. Pioneering the eat-asmuch-as-you-can<br />
theme in<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>, passadors bring<br />
the meat skewers to your<br />
table, and you, the customer<br />
then choose your accompaniments<br />
from the salad bar.<br />
Best washed down with red<br />
wine or a caipirinha or five.<br />
AU PARC<br />
EUROPEAN / CAFÉ<br />
23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3829 2772<br />
auparcsaigon.com<br />
Consistently tasty European<br />
café fare — think deli-style<br />
sandwiches, salads and<br />
mezzes, plus coffees and<br />
juices — served at a popular<br />
park-side Le Duan location<br />
with classic cream and<br />
green-tiled décor.<br />
ASHOKA<br />
NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN<br />
17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3823 1372; 33 Tong Huu<br />
Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177<br />
ashokaindianrestaurant.com<br />
Long-running, award-winning<br />
Indian restaurant famed for<br />
its excellent kebabs, creamy<br />
curries and Chinese-Indian<br />
fare.<br />
BABA’S KITCHEN<br />
NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN<br />
164 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3838 6661<br />
babaskitchen.in<br />
This pleasant, airy Indian<br />
does the full range of fare<br />
from all ends of the subcontinent,<br />
from dosas and vadas<br />
through to chicken tikka<br />
masala, kormas, kebabs and<br />
fiery vindaloos. Has a delivery<br />
outlet in District 2.<br />
BLACK CAT<br />
AMERICAN<br />
13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3829 2055<br />
blackcatsaigon.com<br />
Creatively named burgers,<br />
tasty <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese-styled<br />
sandwiches, spiced up<br />
cocktails, mains and more,<br />
all served up with a Californian<br />
edge at this small but<br />
popular two-storey eatery<br />
close to the river.<br />
BLANCHY STREET<br />
JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN<br />
The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba<br />
Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8793<br />
The work of former Nobu<br />
chef Martin Brito, the Japanese-South<br />
American fusion<br />
cuisine at Blanchy Street<br />
is among the tastiest and<br />
most unusual in the city. All<br />
complemented by fresh, contemporary<br />
decor and a leafy<br />
terrace out front.<br />
BOAT HOUSE<br />
AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL<br />
40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior<br />
Compound, Thao Dien, Q2,<br />
Tel: (08) 3744 6790<br />
A revamp has seen this riverside<br />
restaurant get a new<br />
management and a new<br />
menu — think American-style<br />
burgers, sliders and Tex-Mex<br />
together with soup and salad<br />
and you’ll get the idea. Excellent<br />
nachos and frozen<br />
margaritas.<br />
BOOMARANG BISTRO<br />
SAIGON<br />
INTERNATIONAL / GRILL<br />
CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien,<br />
Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08)<br />
5413 6592<br />
boomarang.com.vn<br />
Australian themed but Singaporean-owned<br />
eatery and<br />
bar on The Crescent with<br />
great terraced seating specializing<br />
in huge-portioned<br />
international fare, all set in<br />
a contemporary, spacious<br />
environment.<br />
CAFÉ IF<br />
VIETNAMESE FRENCH<br />
38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3846 9853<br />
MSG-free traditional <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
cuisine with a<br />
French twist, cooked fresh to<br />
order. Dishes include noodle<br />
soup, steamed ravioli and<br />
beef stew, stir fries, hot pots<br />
and curries.<br />
CHI’S CAFÉ<br />
INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE<br />
40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3837 2502<br />
Chiscafe.com<br />
This affable café is a rarity in<br />
the backpacker area for its<br />
genuinely good musical playlist.<br />
Excellent, build-your-own<br />
breakfasts, baked potatoes,<br />
toasties, <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese fare and<br />
more. Has a popular motorbike<br />
rental service.<br />
CHRIS FOOD ONLINE<br />
TRADITIONAL FRENCH / DESSERTS<br />
Tel: 0909 365525 (English) /<br />
0909 320717 (French)<br />
chrisfoodonline.blogspot.<br />
com or facebook.com/muasaleoff2014<br />
Traditional French cuisine and<br />
exotic dishes from the Reunion<br />
Island served up in Ho Chi<br />
Minh City and delivered to<br />
your door. All dishes are prepared<br />
with fresh ingredients,<br />
nothing is frozen. Options include<br />
cheesecake, tiramisu,<br />
lasagna, chicken curries and<br />
muffin. All speciality foods<br />
are cooked to order.<br />
CIAO BELLA<br />
NEW YORK-ITALIAN<br />
11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3822 3329<br />
saigonrestaurantgroup.com<br />
New York-style Italian restaurant<br />
offering a range of tasty<br />
and affordable antipasti, pastas,<br />
and pizzas. Friendly staff<br />
and rustic bare brick walls<br />
adorned with Hollywood film<br />
legends make for a relaxed<br />
and attractive setting.<br />
CORIANDER<br />
THAI / VIETNAMESE<br />
16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3837 1311<br />
A small, homely <strong>Vietnam</strong>eseowned<br />
Thai restaurant that<br />
over the past decade has<br />
quite rightly gained a strong<br />
local and expat following. Try<br />
their pad thai — to die for.<br />
CORSO<br />
STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL<br />
117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3829 5368<br />
norfolkhotel.com.vn<br />
Although a hotel restaurant,<br />
the enticing range of US and<br />
Australian steaks plus great<br />
grill and comfort food menu<br />
in this contemporary eatery<br />
make for a quality bite.<br />
Decent-sized steaks start at<br />
VND390,000.<br />
ELBOW ROOM<br />
AMERICAN<br />
52 Pasteur, Q1<br />
Tel: (08) 3821 4327<br />
elbowroom.com.vn<br />
The comfort food on offer<br />
at this striking US-style<br />
diner ranges from meatball<br />
baguettes to chilli burgers,<br />
pizzas, blackened chicken<br />
salads and a selection of<br />
more expensive international<br />
mains.<br />
EL GAUCHO<br />
ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE<br />
74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3827 2090; Unit CR1-12, The<br />
Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7,<br />
Tel: (08) 5413 6909<br />
elgaucho.com.vn<br />
A themed eatery mixing<br />
an Argentinian steakhouse<br />
theme with pork, chicken,<br />
lamb, homemade spicy sausage,<br />
skewers, burger dishes<br />
and everything that can<br />
come off a grill. Slick service,<br />
a good wine menu, and caramel<br />
vodka teasers at the end<br />
of the meal. Probably serves<br />
up the best steak in town.<br />
EON51 FINE DINING<br />
TOP-END EUROPEAN / ASIAN<br />
Level 51, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai<br />
Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750<br />
eon51.com<br />
Situated on level 51 of the<br />
most iconic building in<br />
town, Eon51 Fine Dining<br />
offers a unique fine dining<br />
experience accompanied by<br />
unparalleled 3600 picturesque<br />
views of Saigon. The<br />
sky-high restaurant proffers<br />
the taste of Europe in Asia,<br />
orchestrated from the finest<br />
local foods and top-quality<br />
imported ingredients.<br />
GANESH<br />
PAN-INDIAN<br />
74 A2 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 38229366<br />
padamjivietnam@gmail.com<br />
Located opposite Martini Bar,<br />
this relative newcomer to the<br />
dining scene with its bright<br />
decor serves up mainly North<br />
Indian cuisine with a large<br />
vegetarian selection as well<br />
as South Indian curries, dosa,<br />
vada and uthapam.Meat curries<br />
cost from VND100,000 to<br />
VND120,000.<br />
HOA TUC<br />
CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE<br />
The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba<br />
Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1676<br />
Highly rated restaurant with<br />
stunning outdoor terrace.<br />
Specialities include pink<br />
pomelo squid and crab salad,<br />
mustard leaf prawn rolls,<br />
fishcake wraps and barbecue<br />
chicken in ginger, onions and<br />
a lime leaf marinade.<br />
HOANG YEN<br />
PAN-VIETNAMESE<br />
7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3823 1101; The Crescent, 103<br />
Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08)<br />
2210 2304<br />
If you’re looking for midrange,<br />
aircon <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
restaurants that just seem<br />
to do every dish perfectly,<br />
then Hoang Yen really is the<br />
place to go. The atmosphere<br />
may be a bit sterile, but its<br />
amply made up for by the efficient<br />
service and excellent<br />
cuisine. Now with a number<br />
of restaurants around town.<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 185
TOP EATS<br />
5KU STATION<br />
Pop-ups are becoming all the rage,<br />
and the particular style of eatery is<br />
likewise popular with the growing<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese middle class. Combine<br />
the two, and what do you get? 5Ku Station,<br />
a kind of movable feast-maker; a restaurant<br />
that settles into vacant lots, fires up the grill<br />
and dishes out beef and beer to the waiting<br />
masses, though the one at Le Thanh Ton<br />
shows every sign of becoming a permanent<br />
movable restaurant.<br />
5Ku was started almost five years ago<br />
by Thien Dinh, the founder, who had been<br />
involved in several ventures together before<br />
finding this successful formula.<br />
I’ve been a fan of the 5Ku for years. It’s<br />
great for parties and get-togethers, with<br />
plenty of good eats at a reasonable price, and<br />
a cheerfully loud, even festive atmosphere.<br />
I try to approach it fresh this time, coming<br />
with my fiancée and a good friend of ours.<br />
We’re seated at one of the low tables, and of<br />
course I bang my knees into it. The restaurant<br />
has a certain booming charm, from the<br />
graffiti art on the walls to the plain but sturdy<br />
furnishings. To me, however, the real charm<br />
lies in the intangibles of the atmosphere;<br />
everyone there is having a good time, and it’s<br />
noisy from people talking and laughing, not<br />
painfully over-loud music.<br />
Meat and Beer<br />
The first order is obvious — bottles of<br />
Saigon beer (VND19,000) all around to<br />
lubricate the process of ordering. We go<br />
through the menu with more care than<br />
usual, aiming to order an aesthetically<br />
balanced supper. 5Ku offers a lot of food,<br />
from simple grilled meat to expansive hotpots.<br />
Prices are fair, though bills can mount<br />
if you order like I do.<br />
We start with mango 5Ku salad<br />
(VND99,000) — we are warned that it’s<br />
perhaps not to Western tastes, but proceed<br />
anyway. I love it — the mango is just<br />
balanced on tart and sweet, and the mix of<br />
186 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
PHOTOS BY BAO ZOAN<br />
greens and meats that comes with it is a nice<br />
balance.<br />
Next up is slices of ostrich meat<br />
(VDN125,000), grilled at the table. The<br />
ostrich is lean and tender, reminiscent<br />
of beef in its taste. Along with the<br />
ostrich comes shrimp roasted with salt<br />
(VND169,000) which are a mess to peel but<br />
excellent after a dip in lime juice, salt and<br />
pepper.<br />
We finish the order with a rousing dish of<br />
frog ‘sapo’ stewed (VND169,000), served in<br />
a spicy, tangy sauce. Normally, I don’t like<br />
frog — it often combines the worst parts of<br />
fish and chicken — but 5Ku does it well. The<br />
meat is tender, and the sauce complements<br />
the flavour very well.<br />
Service is catch-as-catch-can, and<br />
given how busy the place always is, it’s<br />
understandable. But be prepared to shout<br />
“Em oi!” any time you want to order more<br />
food or another beer. That said, the service<br />
is speedy, and the waiters are willing to help<br />
hapless grillers cook their food.<br />
Younger, Hipper BBQ<br />
5Ku is the younger, hipper version of the<br />
standard <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese BBQ place, with a<br />
few touches and a location that makes it<br />
more popular with Westerners. It’s actually<br />
a decent place to meet other expats and<br />
tourists alike — I’ve met an Australian<br />
rugby team, a lovely Japanese couple, and a<br />
Turkish family.<br />
If you’re the social type, that diversity<br />
alone makes it worthwhile to visit. For<br />
foodies like me, the food is the thing.<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese BBQ is fun and tasty, though<br />
there’s one drawback I’ve yet to mention.<br />
Whether you’re at 5Ku or any other place,<br />
you’ll go home saturated with the scent<br />
of charcoal and cooking pork. — Owen<br />
Salisbury<br />
5Ku is located at 27 Le Thanh Ton, Q1,<br />
HCMC and is open from 4pm to late<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 187
HCMC<br />
On The Town<br />
HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ<br />
AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL<br />
Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial<br />
Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3915 6066<br />
hogsbreathcafe.com.vn<br />
Mixing hearty pub grub such<br />
as burgers, salads and prime<br />
rib steaks with a sports bar<br />
atmosphere, this Australian<br />
chain also offers regular<br />
promotions and a 4pm to<br />
7pm happy hour. Excellent<br />
outdoor terrace.<br />
INAHO<br />
SUSHI / SASHIMI<br />
4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3829 0326<br />
A sushi bar needs a good<br />
chef, and the chef-owner of<br />
Inaho is one of the best. Sit<br />
downstairs at the low-key<br />
bar or upstairs in the private<br />
VIP rooms. Either way, this<br />
is one of the best sushi and<br />
sashimi joints in town.<br />
JASPA’S WINE & GRILL<br />
INTERNATIONAL FUSION<br />
The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba<br />
Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0931<br />
Alfrescosgroup.com<br />
Although a chain restaurant,<br />
the international offerings<br />
here are consistently good<br />
and creative. Excellent service,<br />
an attractive outdoor<br />
terrace area, and a good<br />
kids menu. Check out their<br />
pepper steaks.<br />
KABIN<br />
CANTONESE<br />
Renaissance Riverside Hotel,<br />
8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3822 0033<br />
marriott.com<br />
Offers authentic, gourmet<br />
Cantonese cuisine in an elegant,<br />
classic setting, with<br />
striking décor and the bonus<br />
of views over the Saigon<br />
River. Dishes range from<br />
VND80,000 to VND900,000.<br />
KOH THAI<br />
CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION<br />
Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le<br />
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4423<br />
Modern Thai fusion restaurant<br />
serving Thai classics<br />
alongside tom yam cappuccinos<br />
and more. Koh Thai’s<br />
creative cocktails merge Thai<br />
flavours with local seasonal<br />
fruits and herbs.<br />
KOTO TRAINING<br />
RESTAURANT<br />
CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE<br />
3rd Floor Rooftop, Kumho<br />
Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1. Tel:<br />
(08) 3822 9357<br />
The restaurant associated<br />
with the KOTO vocational<br />
training school. All the<br />
staff — from bar tenders<br />
and waiting staff through<br />
to the chefs — come from<br />
disadvantaged backgrounds<br />
and are being trained on the<br />
jon in hospitality. Serves up<br />
tasty <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese cuisine,<br />
to boot!<br />
L’OLIVIER<br />
FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN<br />
Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le<br />
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555<br />
sofitel.com<br />
Exuding a southern Gallic<br />
atmosphere with its tiled<br />
veranda, pastel-coloured<br />
walls and ficus trees, this<br />
traditional French restaurant<br />
has quarterly Michelin star<br />
promotions and an award<br />
winning pastry team.<br />
LA CUISINE<br />
FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN<br />
48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
2229 8882<br />
lacuisine.com.vn<br />
This intimate, open-kitchened<br />
restaurant bathed in<br />
white specialises in a mix<br />
of contemporary Mediterranean<br />
and French cuisine.<br />
Has a small but well thought<br />
out menu, backed up with<br />
an extensive wine list.<br />
LE CORTO<br />
CONTEMPORARY FRENCH<br />
5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3822 0671<br />
facebook.com/LeCorto<br />
Open for lunch and set dinner,<br />
this beautifully designed<br />
restaurant and bar seamlessly<br />
mixes contemporary and<br />
with classic. With a menu<br />
cooked up by reputed chef<br />
Sakal Phoeung, and with a<br />
contemporary twist to traditional<br />
French fare, this is a<br />
place to enjoy the luxuries<br />
of fine cuisine and even finer<br />
wine.<br />
LE JARDIN<br />
CLASSIC FRENCH<br />
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3825 8465<br />
Unpretentious but tasty<br />
French fare in a relaxed garden<br />
setting within the French<br />
cultural centre. The robust,<br />
bistro-style cuisine is very<br />
well-priced, and excellent,<br />
cheap house wine is served<br />
by the carafe.<br />
LION CITY<br />
SINGAPOREAN<br />
45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3823 8371<br />
lioncityrestaurant.com<br />
Friendly, authentic fivestorey<br />
Singaporean eatery,<br />
plating up the likes of nasi<br />
lemak, mee rebus, and<br />
awesome chicken curry, as<br />
well as specialities like frog<br />
porridge, chilli crab and fish<br />
head curry.<br />
LOVEAT<br />
MEDITERRANEAN<br />
29 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
6260 2727<br />
loveat.vn<br />
Located bang opposite the<br />
Bitexco Tower, Loveat serves<br />
up three floors’ worth of<br />
Mediterranean cuisine mixed<br />
in with continental favourites<br />
like moules frites. A great<br />
place for dinner, cocktails<br />
and wines in a contemporary<br />
Saigon atmosphere.<br />
LU BU<br />
CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN<br />
97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08)<br />
6281 8371<br />
luburestaurant.com<br />
Drawing inspiration from the<br />
great cuisines of Europe, The<br />
Mediterranean and The Orient,<br />
this contemporary, Australian-run<br />
restaurant bathed<br />
in white focuses on wholesome,<br />
fresh ingredients, with<br />
breads, cheeses, pickles,<br />
pastas and preserves made<br />
on site daily from scratch. A<br />
well-conceived wine list supplements<br />
the excellent fare.<br />
Has petanque on the terrace.<br />
LUONG SON<br />
PAN-VIETNAMESE<br />
31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3825 1330<br />
A typical <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese-style<br />
quan nhau, this fan-cooled<br />
downtown eating and drinking<br />
haunt is famed for two<br />
things: it’s on the table,<br />
grill-it-yourself bo tung xeo<br />
(marinated beef) and oddities<br />
such as sautéed scorpion.<br />
A great place to take<br />
out-of-town guests.<br />
MAD HOUSE<br />
CONTEMPORARY CAFE, BAR,<br />
RESTAURANT<br />
6/1/2 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel:<br />
(08) 3519 4009<br />
facebook.com/madsaigon<br />
Set over a pool in a leafy,<br />
tropical garden, the beautiful<br />
rustic décor is matched by<br />
a darkwood, aircon interior.<br />
Subtle lighting and an attention<br />
to details is matched by<br />
some of the best contemporary<br />
cuisine in the city, all<br />
with a European influence.<br />
Also has an extensive wine<br />
list, a good selection of imported<br />
beers and a happy<br />
hour.<br />
MARKET 39<br />
INTERNATIONAL BUFFET<br />
Ground Floor, InterContinental<br />
Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai<br />
Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3520 9999<br />
intercontinental.com/saigon<br />
MAY RESTAURANT<br />
INTERNATIONAL COMFORT FOOD<br />
19 – 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 6291 3686<br />
may.restaurant19@gmail.<br />
com<br />
Casual yet stylish, May places<br />
international-style wining<br />
and dining in the heart of<br />
historic Saigon. Subtle lighting,<br />
comfortable seating, an<br />
extensive wine and cocktail<br />
list, and beautifully crafted<br />
comfort food from Europe,<br />
the Antipodes and Asia all<br />
make up the mix at this multi-floored<br />
restaurant and bar.<br />
Check out their set lunches<br />
and happy hour.<br />
MEKONG MERCHANT<br />
INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE /<br />
SEAFOOD<br />
23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel:<br />
(08) 3744 6478<br />
info@mekongmerchant.com<br />
The rustic looking, bananaleaf<br />
roofed Mekong Merchant<br />
has long been the place in<br />
An Phu. Set around a cobblestoned<br />
courtyard the cuisine<br />
includes gourmet seafood<br />
and pastas. Bakery-style<br />
Bistro out front.<br />
MONSOON<br />
PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN<br />
1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
6290 8899<br />
Traditional pan-Southeast<br />
Asian favourites served in<br />
a visually arresting setting<br />
within a French colonial-era<br />
villa, just minutes from the<br />
backpacker area. Reasonably<br />
priced, with healthy juices<br />
and smoothies.<br />
NAM GIAO<br />
HUE CUISINE<br />
136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 38 250261; 116 Suong<br />
Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3925 9996<br />
namgiao.com<br />
If you want to take friends,<br />
relatives or people out of<br />
town to eat Hue-style street<br />
food in a hygienic yet downto-earth<br />
environment, Nam<br />
Giao is the place. Not only<br />
is it well-priced, but the bun<br />
bo Hue, bun thit nuong, com<br />
hen, banh bot loc and other<br />
such dishes are excellent.<br />
NINETEEN<br />
INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN<br />
Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel,<br />
19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3823 4999<br />
caravellehotel.com<br />
One of the top three buffet<br />
restaurants in town.<br />
Although the selection is<br />
small, the meats, fishes and<br />
seafoods are all fresh, and<br />
everything you eat here is<br />
quality.<br />
OSAKA RAMEN<br />
JAPANESE NOODLES<br />
18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04,<br />
Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu<br />
My Hung, Q7<br />
If you fancy dosing out on ramen<br />
and soba noodles, then<br />
Osaka Ramen is noodle soup<br />
heaven. A typically Japanese<br />
aircon environment mixes<br />
bar-style seating with booths<br />
and private dining. Open late.<br />
PENDOLASCO<br />
PAN-ITALIAN<br />
87 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3821 8181; 36 Tong Huu Dinh,<br />
Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 282<br />
pendolasco.vn<br />
Opening out into a large,<br />
leafy terracotta-tiled garden<br />
area, this trattoria-style Italian<br />
restaurant serves up<br />
quality homemade pasta,<br />
risotto, gnocchi, excellent<br />
pizza and grilled dishes. Has<br />
a second branch in District 2.<br />
PITCHERS SPORTS<br />
AND GRILL<br />
SPORTS BAR & GRILL RESTAURANT<br />
C0.01 Riverside Residence C,<br />
Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel:<br />
(08) 6274 1520<br />
facebook.com/PitchersPMH<br />
Located in the heart of Phu<br />
My Hung, this spacious<br />
restobar with an affection<br />
for showing televised sports<br />
has a family friendly edge<br />
thanks to its kids play area.<br />
Does a great grill menu and<br />
of course, lots of very cold<br />
beer for those developing a<br />
thirst in the Saigon heat.<br />
PIZZA 4P’S<br />
EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION<br />
8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3822 9838<br />
pizza4ps.com<br />
This quirky but highly rated<br />
Italian / Japanese fusion pizza<br />
parlour serves wacky yet<br />
delicious pies such as tuna<br />
curry pizza and calamari seaweed<br />
pizza, as well as more<br />
traditional varieties.<br />
POP FRIES<br />
CALIFORNIAN-STYLE FRIES<br />
14M Quoc Huong, Q2, Tel:<br />
0938 754251; 273 Phan Xich<br />
Long, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 0938<br />
754851<br />
A street food eatery concept<br />
that originates from Los<br />
Angeles and New York, and<br />
born from a passion for sharing,<br />
here it’s all about the<br />
loaded fries. The potatoes<br />
are twice-cooked and come<br />
piled high with a range of inventive<br />
toppings. Funky décor<br />
and long benches make<br />
up the mix.<br />
PROPAGANDA<br />
CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO<br />
21 Han Thuyen, Q1<br />
Part of the group that includes<br />
Au Parc and Refinery,<br />
Propaganda serves up classic<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese cuisine in an atmosphere<br />
of barebrick walls<br />
interposed with Propaganda<br />
Art murals and prints.<br />
QUAN BUI<br />
TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE<br />
8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1,<br />
Tel: (08) 3602 2241; 17A Ngo<br />
Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829<br />
1515<br />
Make sure to try the sautéed<br />
shrimps with cashew nuts<br />
and crispy fried tofu with<br />
lime wedge, at this popular,<br />
high-quality, chicly designed<br />
eatery where all food is<br />
served in traditional crockery.<br />
One of the best <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese<br />
restaurants in town.<br />
QUAN UT UT<br />
US-STYLE BARBECUE<br />
168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3914 4500<br />
188 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
facebook.com/quanutut<br />
It’s a no-brainer, right? American-style<br />
barbecue in a contemporary<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese, quan<br />
nhau-style setting. Of course<br />
it is, which is why Quan Ut<br />
Ut is constantly packed with<br />
grill-obsessed diners going<br />
for the burgers, meats off<br />
the barbecue and Platinum<br />
pale ale served on tap.<br />
RACHA ROOM<br />
CONTEMPORARY THAI RESTOBAR<br />
12-14 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel (08)<br />
6253 7711<br />
theracharoom.com<br />
The Racha Room delivers<br />
Thai accented Pan-Asian<br />
cuisine with a focus on high<br />
quality ingredients. Racha<br />
features a large selection of<br />
spirits at a seated bar and<br />
high table to ensure drinking<br />
along with eating remains<br />
central to the experience.<br />
The current and future of<br />
Asian-inspired drinking and<br />
dining is right here at the<br />
Racha Room.<br />
REFINERY<br />
FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL<br />
The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung,<br />
Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509<br />
therefinerysaigon.com<br />
A slightly retro feel pervades<br />
this popular French-style bistro<br />
and wine bar which once<br />
housed the city’s opium refinery.<br />
The cuisine runs from<br />
creative salads through to<br />
Mediterranean influenced<br />
mains.<br />
RIVERSIDE CAFÉ<br />
INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN<br />
Renaissance Riverside, 8–15<br />
Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3822 0033<br />
Offers versatile all–day dining<br />
of international quality, with<br />
the bonus of being able to<br />
watch the action on the river<br />
sidewalk. Features western,<br />
Asian and <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese buffets.<br />
RELISH & SONS<br />
GOURMET BURGER BAR<br />
44 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 01207 214294;<br />
105-107 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: 0909<br />
004294<br />
relishandsons.com<br />
Relish & Sons burgers are<br />
lovingly made with a healthy<br />
food philosophy in mind and<br />
fresh high quality ingredients.<br />
The beef patties are<br />
100% Australian grass-fed;<br />
the buns are made with a<br />
reduced sugar and salt content.<br />
Burger relishes such<br />
as chutneys are all made inhouse<br />
from scratch.<br />
SAFFRON<br />
PAN-MEDITERRANEAN<br />
51 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3824 8358<br />
Sporting food from around<br />
the Mediterranean rim, this<br />
compact and cozy eatery<br />
with pots hung from the ceiling<br />
is a popular choice with<br />
expats and tourists alike.<br />
Reservations advised.<br />
SAIGON CAFÉ<br />
INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET<br />
Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Hotel<br />
and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi,<br />
Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828<br />
sheratonsaigon.com<br />
If you like your buffet selections<br />
to be big, then here it is<br />
gargantuan, with every type<br />
of option under the sun. A<br />
great place to catch up on<br />
your seafood addiction or to<br />
pig out over a Sunday brunch.<br />
SAN FU LOU<br />
CANTONESE KITCHEN<br />
Ground Floor, AB Building,<br />
76A Le Lai, Q1<br />
Tel: (08) 3823 9513<br />
sanfulou.com<br />
Open until 3am, this popular,<br />
contemporary Cantonese<br />
dining hall mixes contemporary<br />
with traditional, in a<br />
space that takes Chinese<br />
dining in Saigon to a new<br />
level. And if you like your<br />
dim sum, look no further.<br />
SEOUL HOUSE<br />
KOREAN<br />
33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3829 4297<br />
seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr<br />
The longest running Korean<br />
restaurant in town, with all<br />
the Koreans moving out to the<br />
hinterland, the clientele here<br />
are mainly <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese. Fortunately<br />
the food preparation<br />
remains traditional. An excellent<br />
place for group dining.<br />
SHANG PALACE<br />
RESTAURANT<br />
PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE<br />
Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly<br />
Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823<br />
2221<br />
shangpalace.com.vn<br />
Featuring over 200 dishes<br />
and 50 kinds of dim sum<br />
prepared by chefs from Hong<br />
Kong, Shang Palace has nine<br />
private dining rooms and<br />
a main dining area seating<br />
over 300. Good for events.<br />
SKEWERS<br />
INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN<br />
9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3822 4798<br />
skewers-restaurant.com<br />
Simple, unpretentious Greekinfluenced,<br />
international cuisine<br />
ranging from the zucchini<br />
carpaccio through to the saganiki,<br />
a range of dips, mousaka,<br />
osso buco and lamb<br />
chop skewers. Also has an<br />
excellent upstairs cigar room.<br />
SHRI<br />
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN<br />
23rd Floor, Centec Tower,<br />
72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,<br />
Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631<br />
A breezy terrace, indoor bar<br />
and separate dining room<br />
with sweeping views over<br />
central Saigon make up<br />
this enormous, comfortable<br />
space. A well-thought out<br />
and romantic venue, with<br />
excellent food.<br />
STOKER<br />
CONTEMPORARY STEAKHOUSE<br />
44 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel (08)<br />
3826 8691<br />
stokerwoodfiredgrill.com<br />
One of the world’s oldest<br />
culinary techniques — grilling<br />
over a wood fire. Stoker<br />
kitchen uses different woods<br />
to infuse foods with different<br />
smoky flavours. These techniques<br />
revolutionize live fire<br />
cooking by providing precise<br />
heat control through the<br />
use of a grilling surface that<br />
can be adjusted to different<br />
cooking heights above the<br />
hot coals.<br />
SORAE<br />
SUSHI SAKE LOUNGE<br />
Level 24, AB Tower, 76 Le Lai,<br />
Q1, Tel: 0938 687689<br />
soraesushi.com<br />
Set over two floors, this<br />
astonishing, no-expensespared<br />
Japanese restaurant<br />
and lounge brings to Saigon<br />
the type of environment and<br />
ambience you’d expect of<br />
New York, Singapore, Hong<br />
Kong and Dubai. With the<br />
décor comes a modern take<br />
on Japanese fare. A place to<br />
see and be seen.<br />
TAMAGO<br />
PAN-JAPANESE<br />
39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel:<br />
(08) 3744 4634<br />
tamagoresto@gmail.com<br />
Located on the main drag in<br />
Thao Dien, Tamago has indoor<br />
and out door seating,<br />
a terrace and private rooms.<br />
They have a ladies’ night on<br />
Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki<br />
themed night on<br />
Saturday evenings. Have a<br />
second restaurant in Mui Ne.<br />
TEMPLE CLUB<br />
PAN-VIETNAMESE<br />
29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3829 9244<br />
Templeclub.com.vn<br />
Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries<br />
visiting old Saigon,<br />
the elegant and atmospheric<br />
Temple Club is one<br />
of the city’s best-preserved<br />
buildings. Serving quality<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese and Indochine<br />
cuisine at reasonable prices.<br />
THE DECK<br />
MODERN ASIAN FUSION<br />
38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08)<br />
3744 6632<br />
thedecksaigon.com<br />
Set on the banks of Saigon<br />
River across from Thanh Da<br />
Island, this innovative restaurant<br />
serves up modern<br />
Asian fusion cuisine in a<br />
Bali-style atmosphere, complemented<br />
by great cocktails<br />
and a long wine list.<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 189
KNOW K YOUR CITY<br />
AT THE RACES<br />
BY ED HAYSOM<br />
A<br />
feature of colonial cities is<br />
the presence of recreational<br />
activities from the colonising<br />
country. Throughout the former<br />
British empire there are cricket ovals and<br />
rugby fields, polo fields and racecourses.<br />
Growing up in one of the former British<br />
colonies these were part of our culture,<br />
bequeathed to us by our colonial masters.<br />
Of those activities, the sport of horse<br />
racing — sometimes called the Sport of<br />
Kings — is very popular. It is a $A6.3<br />
billion a year industry in Australia alone.<br />
It is therefore a big business with a vast<br />
infrastructure supporting it.<br />
I only knew the English style of horse<br />
racing and was surprised to discover, when<br />
I arrived here, that there was a racecourse<br />
in Ho Chi Minh City.<br />
I was too late; the race course was<br />
abandoned in 2011 and the grounds turned<br />
into an athletics facility. Nevertheless, I took<br />
a taxi to Phu Tho and wandered around<br />
it one afternoon. I was surprised at what I<br />
saw as I expected some elegant old French<br />
grandstand with some ornate metalwork<br />
and decoration, but instead found a 1930s<br />
heavy concrete structure that was definitely<br />
not elegant. It is very basic and nowhere as<br />
refined as some of the buildings built by the<br />
French in the city at or near the same time.<br />
It is hardly a celebration of horse racing.<br />
Origin<br />
Horse racing began in <strong>Vietnam</strong> in 1893,<br />
controlled, naturally, by the French<br />
military. After being suspended during<br />
the First World War, it resumed, becoming<br />
increasingly popular with the French as<br />
well as the <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese. The track itself<br />
was relocated in 1932 to what is now Phu<br />
Tho Stadium and new facilities built, but<br />
racing was halted again in World War II<br />
resuming under <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese control after<br />
the war until 1975.<br />
Battles during the American war were<br />
fought around the race track. After reunification,<br />
gambling was prohibited and<br />
the race course was temporarily turned<br />
into a Sports and Education college, until<br />
it reopened in 1989 as a track again.<br />
The stopping and starting proved to be<br />
a significant factor in preventing the sport<br />
becoming viable again. To understand<br />
why, we need to understand that racing<br />
is an industry and the racetrack is<br />
merely the outward manifestation of<br />
that industry, requiring for its success an<br />
enormous investment in infrastructure.<br />
Even in Australia the sport is facing<br />
challenges with too many racetracks<br />
and too many racing clubs. The track<br />
alone claims a large amount of taxable<br />
land — usually a length between 1km<br />
and 2km long — and the facilities at the<br />
track must include restaurants, stables,<br />
administration areas, carparks and so on.<br />
To make all this work needs public<br />
support. The racing industry in Australia<br />
is supported by an entire culture<br />
spanning a wide spectrum of society,<br />
from the extremely wealthy to workingclass<br />
people, and attracts men and<br />
women in equal numbers. When people<br />
go to the races they dress up. It is not just<br />
about gambling but an enjoyable day out.<br />
It is that aspect of the industry that fuels<br />
its popularity, a popularity that requires<br />
facilities attractive to the public.<br />
The now abandoned Phu Tho building<br />
is a reminder that without these things<br />
supporting its existence, it is no longer<br />
relevant. The building is not one of the<br />
remaining elegant structures that the<br />
city is renowned for and the facilities are<br />
basic.<br />
There are plans to build the country’s<br />
only horse race track in Binh Phuoc, as<br />
part of a US$100 million Binh Phuoc<br />
Recreation Complex Project. The<br />
building itself may be the cheapest part<br />
of the investment if there is no racing<br />
infrastructure to support it.<br />
Ed Haysom is the general director of<br />
Mode / Haysom Architects and is based in<br />
Ho Chi Minh City. You can contact him on<br />
ehaysom@modehaysomarchitects.com<br />
190 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
HCMC<br />
On The Town<br />
THE SOCIETY<br />
GRILL AND LOUNGE BAR<br />
99 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3914 3999<br />
facebook.com/TheSociety-<br />
HCM<br />
Designed as a Lanewaystyle<br />
restobar, the kind of<br />
place found in Hong Kong,<br />
London, New York or Central<br />
Melbourne, thanks to<br />
its indoor and outdoor ambience,<br />
The Society brings<br />
dining and drinking to a new<br />
level. Phenomenal cocktails,<br />
steaks, grilled fare and seafood<br />
make this a place to go<br />
for drinks, a full-blown meal<br />
or a mixture of both.<br />
TIN NGHIA<br />
VEGAN<br />
9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3821 2538<br />
One of the city’s oldest eateries<br />
(established in 1925)<br />
does some of the cheapest<br />
and tastiest vegan cuisine in<br />
town, all cooked up without<br />
onions, garlic or MSG.<br />
VESPER GOURMET<br />
LOUNGE<br />
INTERNATIONAL<br />
Landmark Building, 5B Ton<br />
Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822<br />
9698<br />
facebook.com/vespersaigon<br />
Headed up by well-known<br />
chef Andy Ertle, Vesper is a<br />
sophisticated yet down-toearth<br />
cocktail bar and restaurant<br />
with subtle lighting<br />
and a great spirit selection.<br />
Serves creative, Japanese and<br />
German-influenced cuisine to<br />
supplement the drinks and<br />
has a separate dining space.<br />
WRAP & ROLL<br />
62 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3822 2166; 111 Nguyen Hue,<br />
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971; 226 De<br />
Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 5097<br />
wrap-roll.com<br />
The lime green walls and<br />
bright pastel colours of Wrap<br />
‘n Roll are just part of the<br />
theme of this homegrown,<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong>ese brand which is<br />
all about spring rolls of all<br />
types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced<br />
cuisine.<br />
YU CHU<br />
TOP-END PAN-CHINESE<br />
1st Floor, InterContinental<br />
Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba<br />
Trung & Le Duan, Q1<br />
Tel: (08) 3520 9999<br />
intercontinental.com/saigon<br />
Skillful chefs prepare authentic<br />
hand-pulled noodles,<br />
fresh dim sum and hot wok<br />
dishes within an impeccably<br />
designed open kitchen, as<br />
diners look on. Stylish and<br />
spectacular.<br />
ZEUS<br />
GREEK / KEBAB<br />
164 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3837 3248<br />
The service is often slow, and<br />
the staff are often surprisingly<br />
lazy, yet the food here<br />
is so good and so unique to<br />
this city, that no-one seems<br />
to mind. The perfect place<br />
to feast out on gyros and all<br />
things off a skewer. Cheap,<br />
too.<br />
ZOOM CAFÉ<br />
AMERICAN / TEX-MEX<br />
169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)<br />
3920 3897<br />
vietnamvespaadventures.<br />
com/cafe_zoom<br />
This corner-located Vespainfatuated<br />
venue is a café<br />
and restaurant by day and<br />
a sidewalk drinking joint<br />
by night. Friendly staff and<br />
American deli-style and Cajun<br />
fare makes it a regular<br />
expat haunt.<br />
M M M<br />
STREET FOOD<br />
BA GHIEN<br />
COM TAM<br />
84 Dang Van Ngu, Phu Nhuan<br />
BA NAM<br />
BO KHO<br />
Alleyway to the left of 162<br />
Tran Nhan Tong, Q10<br />
BANH CANH HOANG TY<br />
BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE<br />
70 Vo Van Tan, Q3<br />
BANH CUON HAI NAM<br />
BANH CUON<br />
11A Cao Thang, Q3<br />
BANH KHOT CO<br />
BA VUNG TAU<br />
BANH KHOT<br />
102 Cao Thang, Q3<br />
BANH MI HONG HOA<br />
VIETNAMESE BANH MI<br />
62 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1<br />
BANH MI HUYNH HOA<br />
‘LESBIAN’ BANH MI<br />
26 Le Thi Rieng, Q1<br />
BANH MI SAU MINH<br />
VIETNAMESE BANH MI<br />
170 Vo Van Tan, Q3<br />
BANH MI THANH<br />
MAI HOANG<br />
VIETNAMESE BANH MI<br />
107 Truong Dinh, Q3<br />
BANH TAM BI TO CHAU<br />
BANH TAM<br />
271 Nguyen Trai, Q1<br />
BEEFSTEAK NAM SON<br />
VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE<br />
200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh<br />
Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi<br />
Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917<br />
Namsonsteak.com<br />
BUN CHA HA NOI<br />
BUN CHA<br />
26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1<br />
CHI THONG<br />
BUN THIT NUONG / BANH HOI<br />
195 Co Giang, Q1<br />
COM GA XOI MO SU SU<br />
VIETNAMESE FRIED CHICKEN<br />
55 Tu Xuong, Q3<br />
COM TAM 40A<br />
COM TAM<br />
40A Quoc Huong, Q2<br />
MI QUANG MY SON<br />
MI QUANG<br />
38 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1<br />
NAM GIAO<br />
BUN BO HUE<br />
189 Bis Bui Vien, Q1<br />
PHO DAU<br />
PHO BO<br />
288/M1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3<br />
PHO HOA<br />
PHO BO & PHO GA<br />
260C Pasteur, Q3<br />
PHO LE<br />
PHO BO<br />
413-415 Nguyen Trai, Q5<br />
PHO PHU GIA<br />
PHO BO<br />
146E Ly Chinh Thang, Q3<br />
PHO PHU VUONG<br />
PHO BO<br />
339 Le Van Sy, Tan Binh<br />
SUSHI KO<br />
STREET SUSHI<br />
122/37/15 Vinh Khanh, Q4<br />
THE LUNCH LADY<br />
DAILY CHANGING DISHES<br />
23 Hoang Sa, Q1<br />
TIEM COM GA HAI NAM<br />
HAINANESE CHICKEN RICE<br />
67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel:<br />
(08) 3821 7751<br />
PHOTO BY BAO ZOAN<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 191
HCMC<br />
Map<br />
3 Thang 2 C1<br />
Alexandre de Rhodes B4<br />
An Duong Vuong<br />
D1<br />
Ba Huyen Thanh Quan B2, C3<br />
Ban Co<br />
C1<br />
Ben Chuong Duong D3, D4, E2, E3<br />
Ben Van Don D4, D5, E3<br />
Bui Thi Xuan<br />
C3<br />
Bui Vien<br />
D3<br />
Cach Mang Thang Tam B1, C2, C3<br />
Calmette<br />
C4<br />
Calmette<br />
D4<br />
Cao Ba Nha<br />
D3<br />
Cao Thang<br />
C1, C2, D2<br />
Chu Manh Trinh B4, B5<br />
Co Bac<br />
D3<br />
Co Giang<br />
D3, D4<br />
Cong Quynh<br />
D3<br />
De Tham<br />
C3, D3<br />
Dien Bien Phu A4, B3, C1, C2<br />
Dinh Cong Trang<br />
A3<br />
Dinh Tien Hoang A4, B4<br />
Do Quang Dau<br />
D3<br />
Do Thanh<br />
C1<br />
Doan Nhu Hai<br />
D5<br />
Doan Van Bo<br />
D5<br />
Dong Du<br />
C5<br />
Dong Khoi<br />
B4, C4, C5<br />
Hai Ba Trung A2, A3, B3, B5, C5<br />
Hai Trieu<br />
C5<br />
Ham Nghi<br />
C4<br />
Han Thuyen<br />
B4<br />
Ho Hao Hon<br />
D3<br />
Ho Tung Mau<br />
C4, C5<br />
Ho Xuan Huong<br />
C2<br />
Hoa Hung<br />
B1<br />
Hoang Dieu D4, D5, E3<br />
Hoang Sa<br />
A4, A5<br />
Huyen Tran Cong Chua C3<br />
Huynh Man Dat Binh Thanh A5<br />
Huynh Man Dat Dist. 5 E1<br />
Huynh Thuc Khang<br />
C4<br />
Huynh TinH Cua Binh Thanh A5<br />
Huynh Tinh Cua Dist. 3 A2<br />
Huynh Van Banh A1, A2<br />
Khanh Hoi<br />
D4, E4<br />
Ky Con<br />
C4, D4<br />
Ky Dong<br />
B2<br />
Le Cong Kieu<br />
C4<br />
Le Duan<br />
B4, B5<br />
Le Hong Phong<br />
D1<br />
Le Lai<br />
C3<br />
Le Loi<br />
C4<br />
Le Quoc Hung<br />
D4, D5<br />
Le Quy Don<br />
B3<br />
Le Thanh Ton B4, B5, C3, C4<br />
Le Thi Hong Gam C4, D4<br />
Le Thi Rieng<br />
C3<br />
Le Van Sy<br />
A1<br />
Luong Huu Khanh<br />
C2<br />
Luu Van Lang<br />
C4<br />
Ly Chinh Thang<br />
B2<br />
Ly Thai To<br />
D1<br />
Ly Tu Trong B4, B5, C3, C4<br />
Mac Dinh Chi<br />
B4<br />
Mac Thi Buoi<br />
C5<br />
Mai Thi Luu<br />
A4<br />
Me Linh<br />
A5<br />
Nam Ky Khoi Nghia A2, B3, C4<br />
Ngo Duc Ke<br />
C5<br />
Ngo Thoi Nhiem B2, B3, C2<br />
Ngo Van Nam<br />
B5<br />
Nguyen Bieu<br />
E2<br />
Nguyen Binh Khiem A4, B5<br />
Nguyen Cong Tru C4, C5, D4<br />
Nguyen Cu Trinh D2, D3<br />
Nguyen Dinh Chieu A4, B4, C2, C3,<br />
D1<br />
Nguyen Dinh Chinh<br />
A1<br />
Nguyen Du<br />
B4, C3<br />
Nguyen Gia Thieu<br />
B3<br />
Nguyen Hue<br />
C4, C5<br />
Nguyen Huu Canh<br />
B5<br />
Nguyen Huu Cau<br />
A3<br />
Nguyen Huy Tu<br />
A4<br />
Nguyen Khac Nhu<br />
D3<br />
Nguyen Khoai<br />
E3<br />
Nguyen Ngoc Phuong A5<br />
Nguyen Phi Khanh<br />
A3<br />
Nguyen Sieu B5, C4, C5<br />
Nguyen Son Ha<br />
C2<br />
Nguyen Tat Thanh<br />
D5<br />
Nguyen Thai Binh C4, D4<br />
Nguyen Thai Hoc C3, D3<br />
Nguyen Thi Dieu C2, C3<br />
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai A5, B3, B4,<br />
C2, C3, D2<br />
Nguyen Thien Thuat<br />
C1<br />
Nguyen Thong<br />
B1, B2<br />
Nguyen Thuong Hien C2<br />
Nguyen Trai<br />
C3, D2, E1<br />
Nguyen Trung Truc<br />
C4<br />
Nguyen Truong To<br />
D5<br />
Nguyen Van Cu<br />
D2, E2<br />
Nguyen Van Lac<br />
A5<br />
Nguyen Van Mai<br />
A2<br />
Nguyen Van Nguyen A2<br />
Nguyen Van Thu A4, B3, B4<br />
Nguyen Van Troi<br />
A1<br />
Pasteur<br />
B3, B4<br />
Pasteur<br />
C4<br />
Pham Hong Thai<br />
C3<br />
Pham Ngoc Thach<br />
B3<br />
Pham Ngu Lao<br />
C3, D3<br />
Pham Viet Chanh<br />
D2<br />
ANTIQUES<br />
Le Cong Kieu C4<br />
ARMY SURPLUS<br />
Dan Sinh Market D4<br />
BIKE MAINTENANCE<br />
Nguyen Du C3<br />
BRIDALWEAR<br />
3 Thang 2 C1<br />
CAMERAS<br />
Ton That Thiep C4<br />
CAR COMPONENTS<br />
Tran Quang Khai A3<br />
Ky Con C4, D4<br />
COMPUTERS<br />
Ton That Tung C2, C3<br />
COOKING INGREDIENTS<br />
Ham Nghi C4, C5<br />
EVERYTHING<br />
Ben Thanh Market C4<br />
FABRICS<br />
Hai Ba Trung A3<br />
FLOWERS<br />
Le Thanh Ton C4<br />
GUITARS<br />
Nguyen Thien Thuat D1, D2<br />
192 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com<br />
Phan Dinh Phung<br />
Phan Ke Binh<br />
Phan Van Han<br />
Pho Duc Chinh<br />
Phung Khac Khoan<br />
Suong Nguyet Anh<br />
Tan Vinh<br />
Thach Thi Thanh<br />
Thai Van Lung<br />
Thi Sach<br />
Thu Khoa Huan<br />
Ton Dan<br />
Ton Duc Thang<br />
Ton That Dam<br />
Ton That Thiep<br />
Ton That Tung<br />
Tran Binh Trong<br />
Tran Canh Chan<br />
Tran Cao Van<br />
Tran Dinh Xu<br />
Tran Hung Dao<br />
Tran Huy Lieu<br />
Tran Khac Chan<br />
Tran Khanh Du<br />
Tran Minh Quyen<br />
Tran Nhan Tong<br />
Tran Nhat Duat<br />
Tran Phu<br />
Tran Quang Khai<br />
Tran Quoc Thao<br />
Tran Quoc Toan<br />
Tran Van Dang<br />
Truong Dinh<br />
Truong Quyen<br />
Truong Sa<br />
Tu Xuong<br />
Vinh Hoi<br />
Vinh Khanh<br />
Vo Thi Sau<br />
Vo Van Tan<br />
Vuon Chuoi<br />
Xo Viet Nghe Tinh<br />
Xom Chieu<br />
Yersin<br />
JAPANESE RESTAURANTS<br />
Le Thanh Ton B4, B5<br />
LUGGAGE<br />
Le Lai C3, C4<br />
MOTORBIKES<br />
Ly Tu Trong C3<br />
PAINTINGS<br />
Tran Phu D1<br />
Bui Vien D3<br />
PLAQUES<br />
Nam Quoc Cang C2, D2<br />
SAFES<br />
Vo Van Tan C3<br />
SEAFOOD<br />
Vinh Khanh D4, D5<br />
SHOES<br />
Nguyen Dinh Chieu C1, C2<br />
Luu Van Lang C4<br />
SPORTSWEAR<br />
Huyen Tran Cong Chua C3<br />
STATIONERY<br />
Nguyen Dinh Chieu B3<br />
WEDDING SERVICES<br />
Nguyen Dinh Chieu D1<br />
A2<br />
A4<br />
A5<br />
C4, D4<br />
B3, B4<br />
C2, C3<br />
D4, E4<br />
A3<br />
B5<br />
B5, C5<br />
C4<br />
D5, E5<br />
B5, C5<br />
C4, C5<br />
C4<br />
C2, C3<br />
D1, E1, E2<br />
D2<br />
B4<br />
D2, D3<br />
D3, E1, E2<br />
A1, B1<br />
A3<br />
A2<br />
B1, C1<br />
D1<br />
A3<br />
D1<br />
A2, A3<br />
B1, B2, B3<br />
A2, B2<br />
B1<br />
B2, B3, C3<br />
B3<br />
A4, A5<br />
B2<br />
E3, E4, E5<br />
D4, D5<br />
A3, B2, B3<br />
B3, C2<br />
C2<br />
A5<br />
E5<br />
C4, D4<br />
Nguyen Dinh Chinh<br />
AHAHuAuyAynAnh<br />
Ah<br />
AV Huynh Van Banh<br />
LE HONG PHONG<br />
Tran Van Dang<br />
DIEN BIEN PHU<br />
LY THAI TO<br />
HUNG VUONG<br />
Nguyen Dinh Chinh<br />
NGUYEN N VAN TROI<br />
Tran Huy Lieu Tran Huy Lieu<br />
Tran Minh Quyen Tran Minh Quyen<br />
Ba<br />
Ban<br />
Bn<br />
Hoa Hung<br />
Tran Minh Quyen<br />
Tran Nhan Tong<br />
To T D<br />
Nh<br />
Tan Binh<br />
0.5km<br />
Airport<br />
3km<br />
1<br />
PHU NHUANy<br />
NHUANn<br />
NHUANyn<br />
NHUANnh<br />
NHUAN<br />
A<br />
BTBTBTBTBTrB<br />
rBrB<br />
Tr TBTr<br />
T a<br />
CDistrict 11<br />
2km<br />
D<br />
ha<br />
T D<br />
T nDnDnDnDngDgDgDgDgDgD<br />
Binh Tay<br />
Market 3km<br />
E<br />
Le Van Sy<br />
Huynh Man Dat<br />
Saigon Train<br />
Station<br />
NG<br />
CACH MANG THANG TAM<br />
Lan Anh Sports<br />
& Leisure Club<br />
DISTRICT 10<br />
3 THANG 2<br />
GU<br />
YE<br />
UY<br />
N<br />
Ban Co<br />
Nguyen Thien Thuat<br />
Cao Thang<br />
Do Thanh<br />
Tran Binh Trong Tran Binh Bi<br />
Trong<br />
TRAN PHU<br />
AN DUONG VUONG<br />
Nguyen n Trai<br />
T a<br />
Huynh Van V Banh<br />
Tran Quoc Thao<br />
Qu<br />
Truong Dinh<br />
T<br />
Ky Dong<br />
Ba Huyen Thanh Quan<br />
Nguyen Thong<br />
University of<br />
Natural<br />
Sciences<br />
nh<br />
Vuon Chuoi<br />
Nguyen Dinh Chieu<br />
Teacher<br />
Training<br />
University<br />
PHAN DINH DI2I2IN2N2NH<br />
2H<br />
2P PHUNG<br />
NAM KY KHOI NGHIA<br />
Nguyen Son Ha<br />
Nguyen Thuong Hien<br />
NGUYEN THI MINH KHAI<br />
NGUYEN VAN CU<br />
DISTRICT 5<br />
gu<br />
Ng<br />
uy<br />
ye<br />
N<br />
a<br />
Tr<br />
ai<br />
uy<br />
T a<br />
in<br />
Tr<br />
Va<br />
H<br />
D22<br />
Nguyen Bieu<br />
LY CHINH THANG<br />
VO THI SAU<br />
Vuon Chuoi<br />
Market<br />
Pham Viet Chanh<br />
TRAN HUNG DAO<br />
KHA
Nguyen Van Nguyen<br />
LY CHINH THANG<br />
Tran Quoc Toan<br />
Huynh Tinh Cua<br />
Tran Khanh Du<br />
Nguyen Van Mai<br />
Tran Quoc Toan<br />
Tran Nhat Duat<br />
HAI BA TRUNG<br />
T a<br />
To<br />
Tan Dinh<br />
Market<br />
VO THI SAU<br />
Tran Khac Chan<br />
Nguyen Huu Cau<br />
Thach Thi Thanh<br />
Dinh Cong Trang<br />
Truong Quyen<br />
Ly Van Phuc<br />
Pasteur Pasteur<br />
P<br />
Tran Quang Khai<br />
DISTRICT 3<br />
Gia Dinh<br />
3 Hospital 4 nBINH ngBINH 5<br />
1.5km<br />
SBINH SaBINH THANHT<br />
THANHTI<br />
THANHI<br />
THANHIN<br />
THANHNH<br />
THANHH<br />
THANH<br />
Tran Quang Khai<br />
Nguyen Phi Khanh<br />
VO THI SAU<br />
Le Van Tam<br />
Park<br />
Pham Ngoc Thach<br />
BIEN<br />
DIEN BIEN PHU<br />
DINH TIEN HOANG<br />
Phung Khac Kha Khoan<br />
HAI BA TR TRUNG<br />
Nguyen Van Thu<br />
Nguyen Huy Tu<br />
Nguyen Dinh Chieu<br />
Tran Cao Van<br />
Phan Ke Binh<br />
Mai Thi Luu<br />
Mac Dinh Chi<br />
Hoang Sa<br />
DIEN BIEN PHU<br />
Truong g Sa<br />
SBINH<br />
Nguyen Du<br />
Phan Van Han<br />
Hoang Sa<br />
NGUYEN BINH KHIEM NGUYEN BINH KHIEM<br />
DINH TIEN HOANG TON DUC THANG<br />
eu<br />
Hoa Lu<br />
Stadium<br />
H KH<br />
NGUYEN THI MINH KHAI<br />
HTV<br />
Television<br />
LE DUAN<br />
Chu Manh M Trinh<br />
ha Van<br />
Han<br />
h<br />
E T<br />
Nguyen Ngoc Phuong<br />
XO VIET NGHE TINH<br />
Zoo & Botanical<br />
Gardens<br />
Phan Van Han<br />
NGUYEN HUU CANH<br />
Huynh Man Dat<br />
Saigon Bridge<br />
& Highway 1<br />
3km<br />
Tu Xuong<br />
DIEN BIEN PHU<br />
Ngo Thoi Nhiem<br />
Vo Van Tan<br />
Cao Thang<br />
i Nh<br />
Ho Xuan Huong<br />
Luong Huu Khanh<br />
Nguyen Trai<br />
Truong Dinh<br />
Din<br />
hi D<br />
Nguyen Thi Dieu<br />
Nguyen Gia Thieu<br />
Tran Quoc Thao<br />
Nguyen Dinh Dinh Chieu<br />
CACH MANG THANG TAM<br />
Nam Quoc Cang<br />
AN<br />
Suong Nguyet Anh<br />
Ton That Tung<br />
Ba Huyen Thanh Quan<br />
Bui Thi Xuan<br />
Cong Quynh<br />
Le Lai<br />
Thai Binh<br />
Market<br />
Nguyen Cu Trinh<br />
Cao Ba Nha<br />
Le Quy Don<br />
Ngo Thoi Nhiem<br />
Le Thi Rieng<br />
Nguyen Trai<br />
NAM KY KHOI NGHIA<br />
Bui Vien<br />
Vo Van Tan<br />
NGUYEN THI MINH KHAI<br />
Tao Dan<br />
Park<br />
Pham NguLaoL<br />
Do Quang Dau<br />
War Remnants<br />
Museum<br />
Ho Hao Hon<br />
Labour Culture<br />
Palace<br />
Nguyen Du<br />
23/9 Park<br />
De Tham<br />
TRAN HUNG DAO<br />
Nguyen Khac Nhu<br />
Huyen Tran Cong Chua<br />
HCMC<br />
Conservatory<br />
of Music<br />
Th<br />
Co Bac<br />
Re-unification<br />
Palace<br />
Truong Dinh<br />
Ly Tu TrongT NGUYEN THAI HOC<br />
De Tham<br />
Alexandre de Rhodes<br />
30 Thang 4<br />
Park<br />
Thu Khoa Huan<br />
PHAM HONG THAI<br />
NG<br />
Le Lai<br />
AI HO<br />
Tr<br />
N<br />
Le Thanh Ton<br />
Co Giang<br />
Le Thi Hong Gam<br />
Yersin<br />
LE DUAN<br />
Han Thuyen<br />
Nguyen Trung Truc<br />
Ben Thanh<br />
Market<br />
Duc Ba<br />
Cathedral<br />
Luu Van Lang<br />
Saigon<br />
Bus Station<br />
Nguyen Thai Binh<br />
Dan Sinh<br />
Market<br />
Nguyen Cong Tru<br />
Ky Con<br />
Pasteur<br />
LE LOI<br />
Calmette<br />
Ben Chuong Duong<br />
Central<br />
Post Office<br />
Nguyen Du<br />
Le Cong Kieu<br />
Pho Duc Chinh<br />
Pasteur<br />
Ly Tu Trong<br />
Dong Khoi Dong Khoi<br />
i<br />
Le Thanh Ton<br />
NAM KY KHOI NGHIA<br />
inh<br />
Huynh Thuc Khang<br />
Vinh Khanh<br />
HAI BA TRUNG<br />
Ton That Thiep<br />
HAM NGHI<br />
Ton That Dam<br />
T<br />
NG<br />
u Tr<br />
Opera<br />
House<br />
DISTRICT 1M<br />
1<br />
NGU<br />
NGUYEN HUE<br />
Ho Tung Mau<br />
ng M<br />
Nguyen Cong Tru<br />
Le Quoc Hung<br />
Thai Van Lung<br />
Nguyen Sieu<br />
Dong Du<br />
Mac Thi Buoi<br />
Ngo Duc Ke<br />
Hai Trieu<br />
Ben Van Don<br />
Nguyen Truong To<br />
Le Thanh Ton<br />
guye<br />
Th<br />
Thi Sach<br />
Ho Huan Nghiep<br />
Doan Nhu Hai<br />
Doan Van Bo<br />
TON DUC THANG<br />
NGUYEN TAT THANH<br />
Hoang Dieu<br />
Ngo Van Nam<br />
Ton Duc Thang<br />
Museum<br />
UC<br />
TON DUC THANG<br />
THU THIEM TUNNEL<br />
VinaExpress - The<br />
Hydrofoil Service<br />
Vung Tau<br />
Tran Dinh Xu<br />
Co Giang<br />
Hoang Dieu<br />
Vinh Khanh<br />
District 7<br />
& Nha Be<br />
Tran Canh Chan<br />
Chua Phat An<br />
Ben Chuong Duong<br />
Ben Van Don<br />
Nguyen Khoai<br />
Hoang Dieu<br />
Khanh Hoi H<br />
Tan Vinh<br />
DISTRICT 4an<br />
4n<br />
4Da<br />
4a<br />
4D<br />
Saigon South<br />
4km<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 193<br />
Ton Dan<br />
Xom Chieu
The Final Say<br />
THE FINAL SAY<br />
HANOI<br />
Bike to the Future?<br />
With so many new transport options becoming available and a metro system in the<br />
making, Edward Dalton takes to the streets of Hanoi and asks a question we all<br />
want to know the answer to: Can anything dethrone the motorbike?<br />
Getting from A to B should be a<br />
simple task. In Hanoi, however,<br />
nothing is simple where transport<br />
is concerned. A city of nearly<br />
five million motorbikes and around half<br />
a million cars, chaos on the roads is well<br />
documented, and a tourist might be<br />
forgiven for thinking any given time of<br />
day was rush hour.<br />
For more than a decade, the motorbike<br />
has been the dominant form of transport<br />
throughout <strong>Vietnam</strong>, and no more so than in<br />
its biggest cities. There are buses, but people<br />
are using them less every year. There is a<br />
metro system in the pipeline, but who knows<br />
when that might finally emerge. Unless for<br />
exercise, bicycles are now the preserve of<br />
students or the poor, and there is no intercity<br />
train network worth speaking of.<br />
Our survey was designed to discover the<br />
opinions of local people on current transport<br />
preferences, and what their hopes and<br />
expectations are for the future of transport<br />
in the capital, especially with regards to the<br />
upcoming metro lines.<br />
No Big Surprises<br />
Young and old, rich or poor, male or female,<br />
there’s one conclusion no one will be<br />
surprised by; the motorbike is at the top of<br />
the transport food chain. Ferrying students<br />
to classes, shifting families around town,<br />
hauling goods to customers and transferring<br />
young couples away from the prying eyes of<br />
their families, the motorbike was the main<br />
mode of transport for 98% of young male<br />
respondents, and 99% of young females.<br />
The data becomes more interesting when<br />
we look at the older age groups, the 46 to 60s<br />
and 61 plus. Although the majority still use<br />
motorbikes, averaging at 74% between male<br />
and female, the figure is significantly lower<br />
than their younger compatriots.<br />
In the group I would cautiously term<br />
middle-aged, more people reported owning<br />
and using a car. Once they got over the<br />
peak of retirement, however, the figure<br />
for motorbike usage creeps back up again,<br />
suggesting convenience trumps style and<br />
status in old age.<br />
194 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
The Wheels on the Bus<br />
There are lots of buses in Hanoi, as anyone<br />
who has routinely been nearly murdered by<br />
one whilst cycling will tell you. The answers<br />
revealed that in all age groups, more than<br />
double the amount of women than men use<br />
public transport frequently.<br />
Overall use is rather low, with a genderaverage<br />
figure of 13% of men and 29% of<br />
women using the bus regularly (once a week<br />
or more). The most commonly cited reason<br />
for avoiding public transport was duration;<br />
respondents said it was too inconvenient to<br />
wait for a bus to arrive, and then endure a<br />
slow journey with multiple stops or transfers<br />
on the way.<br />
More young women spoke of their<br />
concerns about safety and hygiene on public<br />
transport, whereas a higher proportion of<br />
men said the crowded nature of buses at<br />
peak hours were deeply off-putting.<br />
A few women mentioned that it was easier<br />
to avoid the sun if travelling by bus, while<br />
another I spoke to told me she uses public<br />
transport exclusively, because a serious<br />
motorbike accident had left her too afraid to<br />
go on a motorbike again.<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 195
Uber or Metro?<br />
One of the newest additions to Hanoi’s<br />
transport options is the use of apps such as<br />
Uber or Grab, essentially a glorified way of<br />
calling a taxi.<br />
However, somewhere over the horizon is<br />
the impending metro, looming large over the<br />
livelihoods of anyone driving a bus, taxi or xe<br />
om for a living. The first line was due to open<br />
at the end of this year, but that’s been pushed<br />
back to 2020. It’s anyone’s guess as to when<br />
the whole network will be up and running.<br />
Among the younger age groups, which<br />
includes students, 81% of men are more<br />
excited about the metro rather than Uber<br />
or Grab, and a whopping 94% of women.<br />
In the middle-aged groups, and the elderly,<br />
those figures drop to 60% of men and 74% of<br />
women.<br />
A clear 100% of men and women aged<br />
16 to 24 said they would definitely use the<br />
metro when it was finished, suggesting the<br />
younger generation are as forward-thinking<br />
and progressive as one would hope. Both<br />
hilariously and tragically, many of the<br />
respondents over the age of 75 laughed away<br />
the notion of using the metro, the main reason<br />
being they don’t expect to be alive by the time<br />
it’s finished.<br />
Unsurprisingly, the younger generation<br />
said they will be more drawn to using the<br />
metro regularly if it meets their modern<br />
standard of living. This means free Wi-<br />
Fi, comfortable and stylish carriages and<br />
affordability. Older, although not necessarily<br />
wiser, respondents said it would depend on<br />
whether they could park their motorbikes<br />
or cars close enough to metro stations, and if<br />
the service was faster and more reliable than<br />
buses.<br />
196 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
“Everyone we spoke<br />
to expects either the<br />
car or metro to be<br />
the dominant mode<br />
of transport in Hanoi<br />
in 15 years’ time.<br />
Among young people,<br />
73% believed the<br />
motorbike would no<br />
longer be dominant in<br />
just five years’ time”<br />
What Does the Future Hold?<br />
Right now, overcrowding is a big concern<br />
to many Hanoians, according to 61% of<br />
all respondents we spoke to who wished<br />
Hanoi had fewer people. The second most<br />
popular wish was that Hanoi’s millions of<br />
motorbikes would be far fewer in number,<br />
regardless of whether the respondent drove<br />
a motorbike or car.<br />
On the future, everyone we spoke to<br />
expects either the car or metro to be the<br />
dominant mode of transport in Hanoi in 15<br />
years’ time. Among young people, change<br />
is the flavour of the day, as 73% of people<br />
believed the motorbike would no longer be<br />
dominant in just five years’ time.<br />
The general consensus seems to be that<br />
Hanoi is, sadly, heading the way of Bangkok<br />
and other Southeast Asian capitals, where<br />
the car has replaced the motorbike at the top.<br />
Hanoi has a golden opportunity to avoid<br />
repeating the mistakes of more developed<br />
cities, and instead focus efforts on improving<br />
infrastructure and public transport; the<br />
survey shows that young people are open to<br />
a future of using public transport.<br />
Unfortunately, with cars being made<br />
cheaper by various cuts to import duties and<br />
luxury taxes, and motorbikes targeted in a<br />
proposed plan to ban them from downtown<br />
by 2025, the opportunity is flying past, and<br />
all we can do is stand by, watch and call an<br />
Uber.<br />
The Survey<br />
Focusing on three main demographics<br />
— age, gender and income — we<br />
questioned 100 people around Hoan<br />
Kiem, Cau Giay and Hai Ba Trung,<br />
targeting as diverse a group as possible.<br />
The questions were as follows:<br />
1) Which vehicles does your family<br />
currently own?<br />
2) Which vehicle do you use the most?<br />
3) How often do you use public<br />
transport?<br />
4) What is the biggest problem with<br />
public transport?<br />
5) Which new mode of transport are<br />
you most excited about?<br />
6) Will you use the metro when it’s<br />
finished?<br />
7) What feature would make the metro<br />
most appealing to you?<br />
8) Do you think the metro will be good<br />
for Hanoi?<br />
9) Do you expect the metro do reduce<br />
traffic?<br />
10) Would you swap your motorbike/car<br />
to only use public transport?<br />
11) What do you wish Hanoi had less<br />
of?<br />
12) After five years and 15 years, what<br />
do you think will be Hanoi’s main<br />
mode of transport?<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 197
The Final Say<br />
THE FINAL SAY<br />
NATIONAL<br />
10 Ways To Keep<br />
Your Road Trip<br />
From Falling Apart<br />
A veteran of road trips by<br />
motorbike both good and<br />
bad, Jesse Meadows gives<br />
a few tips on how to ensure<br />
your two-wheeled travels<br />
don’t end up in disaster<br />
I<br />
arrived in <strong>Vietnam</strong> on a whim, and I<br />
didn’t stay for a person, or a job, or any<br />
place in particular. I stayed for the road<br />
trips. I’ve done quite a few now, from two<br />
hours to two weeks, from one companion<br />
to 15. Some were smooth sailing, others fell<br />
apart completely. And I’ve since realised<br />
there are certain guidelines that, when<br />
followed on the road, ensure a trip doesn’t<br />
spiral into catastrophe.<br />
1) Keep Your Companions in Sight<br />
Make sure you have a visual in your<br />
rear-view mirror on those behind you.<br />
Depending how big your group is, it might<br />
be useful to split into groups — faster<br />
drivers at the lead, slower ones trailing<br />
behind, but everyone sticking with a buddy<br />
or two. This way if there is a problem — flat<br />
tyre, emergency pitstop, etc. — no one is left<br />
alone on the side of the road. When your<br />
companion pulls over, you pull over, too.<br />
2) Honk When Passing Anything<br />
Whether you’re passing someone on a<br />
bicycle, another motorbike, a car, or a truck,<br />
lean on the horn. I once saw a road trip<br />
companion plough into a woman with a<br />
baby — he tried to pass her on the left, she<br />
turned left without signalling. Baby went<br />
flying. (Everyone was okay, thankfully, but<br />
we narrowly escaped an angry dad with a<br />
stick.)<br />
3) Appoint a Sheepdog and a<br />
Navigator<br />
The navigator leads; they have reliable GPS<br />
and are skilled enough at driving a bike that<br />
they can safely check it without pulling over.<br />
The sheepdog needs to be fast, so they can<br />
float between the front of the party and the<br />
back, keeping everyone together, hanging<br />
towards the back most of the time in case<br />
anyone pulls over with a problem, but ready<br />
to speed up to the front to inform the leader<br />
of any situations.<br />
4) Leave no Biker Behind<br />
If you want to keep the group together, then<br />
you are only as fast as your slowest person.<br />
I once had an experience where certain<br />
companions tried to show off, driving fast<br />
and recklessly weaving through traffic<br />
instead of going at the pace of the group.<br />
198 | <strong>Word</strong> <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> | wordvietnam.com
And guess what? They got lost. Put your<br />
pride away and stick together. And when<br />
you make a turn, wait in clear view of the<br />
rest of your party and make sure they all<br />
make the same turn, too.<br />
5) Make Your Pitstops Count<br />
You all need to be on the same schedule.<br />
Granted, bikes burn through petrol tanks at<br />
different speeds — automatics like Nuovos<br />
need to fill up first, then semi-autos like<br />
Waves, and last, manual bikes like Wins<br />
(which can sometimes go all day without<br />
refuelling.) It also helps to fill an empty<br />
water bottle with petrol for emergencies, and<br />
for those bikes that will run out faster than<br />
others — this way you can pull over quick<br />
and refuel without losing much time.<br />
6) Don’t be Picky about Food<br />
If you’re road-tripping rural <strong>Vietnam</strong>,<br />
you’re going to eat rice and noodles for a<br />
week — just accept that now. And forget<br />
about finding food during nap time (noon to<br />
2pm) or late at night. On a road trip, you eat<br />
what you can get. I always pack emergency<br />
snacks, too, in case I can’t find anything else.<br />
And try to be nice to the vegetarians in your<br />
group — it’s especially hard for them to find<br />
food out there.<br />
7) Cover your Skin<br />
We all know that helmets are mandatory.<br />
But your skin is vulnerable on a motorbike,<br />
too. Heatstroke is no joke. I learnt my<br />
lesson on my very first road trip, driving<br />
back delirious from Mai Chau, feeling like<br />
simultaneously puking and passing out on<br />
the highway.<br />
When you’re in direct sun for hours,<br />
sunscreen does absolutely nothing to ward<br />
off harmful UV rays. Always cover your skin<br />
with long sleeves and pants — it will also<br />
help minimise your roadburn in the event<br />
that you hit the asphalt. Those women on<br />
the road in full body suits aren’t doing it just<br />
for vanity.<br />
8) Set off Early<br />
Seriously, 9am should be the latest you leave.<br />
The earlier the better — remember, you’re<br />
racing the light. You don’t want to be on<br />
rural mountain roads in the dark. Have you<br />
ever been on a night bus in <strong>Vietnam</strong>? Those<br />
drivers are crazy — same goes for the latenight<br />
truckers. Make sure you have enough<br />
light to get to your next destination, and if<br />
you start to lose it, stop in the nearest town<br />
and wait for the next day.<br />
9) Be Skeptical of Google’s<br />
‘Shortcuts’<br />
Google Maps does not differentiate between<br />
highways and dirt roads. I once took what<br />
appeared to be a shortcut through Ha Giang,<br />
only to find myself struggling up and down<br />
two mountains on an unpaved, muddy<br />
track. What should have taken two hours<br />
took five, and was terrifying, too. Stick to the<br />
highways.<br />
10) Try Not to Complain<br />
There is probably no worse fate in life than<br />
travelling with a chronic complainer. If you<br />
don’t have anything positive to say, keep<br />
it to yourself. Road trips are exhausting,<br />
stressful, and intense. It’s important to keep<br />
group morale high — negativity spreads like<br />
a virus. Laugh at your misfortune instead<br />
of moaning about it. It will make a world of<br />
difference.<br />
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 199
The Final Say<br />
Ten10<br />
When Ben Mitchell and his wife Bich set up their farmstay on the edge of<br />
Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, people thought they had a screw loose.<br />
Six years later and they have a thriving business<br />
What brought you to Phong Nha?<br />
My then-girlfriend, now wife, Bich, bought<br />
me here to meet the family for Tet in January<br />
2007. When we got to the train station in<br />
Dong Hoi, there was nothing there but two<br />
beat-up small cars moonlighting as taxis,<br />
and a shop selling coffee and warm beer. We<br />
squeezed into one of the old cars to go to<br />
Phong Nha and when we arrived, I met the<br />
family.<br />
What was it like when you first<br />
arrived?<br />
Rural Quang Binh was remote, had no internet,<br />
very few landline phones, no mobile<br />
network, very few motorbikes, no cars,<br />
trucks, buses, and very<br />
few fridges<br />
or TVs. The<br />
locals lived<br />
in small<br />
wooden houses, normally consisting of one<br />
big room and a kitchen.<br />
Why did you and your wife decide<br />
to set up a farmstay there?<br />
In 2008 I was working on a project in the<br />
Middle East when the global financial crisis<br />
hit. Bich and I decided to move back and<br />
start a business in Phong Nha. I wanted to<br />
be able to stay in the area without having<br />
to go overseas to earn money, and both of<br />
us wanted to make a business that shared<br />
Phong Nha with outsiders. We bought a<br />
block of land next to her brother’s house that<br />
had one of the best sunset views I’d ever<br />
seen. We built the farmstay there.<br />
What difficulties did you have to<br />
deal with when you first opened?<br />
I’d been working in construction around<br />
the world for years and thought<br />
myself quite experienced. Yet I found<br />
myself on a huge learning curve.<br />
What these guys can do with the<br />
simplest of products and equipment<br />
made me a student from<br />
day one. Then there was<br />
the opposition to the<br />
project from both the<br />
community and some<br />
family members. Some<br />
people didn’t want<br />
the business to be built,<br />
because they thought it<br />
would be an embarrassment<br />
to the community and the family.<br />
Bich’s brothers stuck by her,<br />
though, and threw themselves at<br />
the project. The four of us run<br />
the business together.<br />
How did you<br />
manage to get<br />
the tourists<br />
in?<br />
Any way we<br />
could think of. As<br />
we’d been working<br />
in different<br />
parts of <strong>Vietnam</strong><br />
and we’d done<br />
a few road<br />
trips, we’d<br />
met other<br />
people<br />
who<br />
were<br />
ahead<br />
of us on<br />
our learning curve. Guys who worked at<br />
places including Hoi An Motorbike Adventures,<br />
<strong>Vietnam</strong> Backpacker Hostels, Sleepy<br />
Gecko Hoi An, Jungle Beach, VIP Bikes,<br />
Wide Eyed Tours and Le Pub to name a<br />
few. These guys also provided us with<br />
access to journalists and travel writers that<br />
they knew. At first it was primarily backpackers<br />
who were on the road for a long<br />
time and who were told about it. People<br />
came for a night and tended to stay on.<br />
When did your venture really<br />
start taking off?<br />
We opened the Farmstay in December<br />
2010. The business built gradually through<br />
word of mouth, and then in early 2012 we<br />
got mentioned in the newly released Lonely<br />
Planet and Rough Guide travel books.<br />
How did the opening of Son<br />
Doong, the largest cave in the<br />
world, help both your own<br />
businesses and Phong Nha as a<br />
whole?<br />
It got the area a lot of publicity. In December,<br />
2010, National Geographic released<br />
a documentary about the exploration of<br />
the cave and in January 2011 they did an<br />
editorial on it. By 2013, when Oxalis Tour<br />
Company ran the first tour to the cave,<br />
we were prepared to make the most of the<br />
moment.<br />
How well has the area developed<br />
over the past few years?<br />
There are many more accommodation, eating<br />
and entertainment options in the area.<br />
There are many more tours and activities,<br />
and much more infrastructure for getting<br />
in and out. A lot of local people have<br />
benefited through a massive increase in<br />
employment and small business opportunities.<br />
This means a lot to me personally.<br />
Why should people visit Phong<br />
Nha instead of, say, Sapa, Halong<br />
Bay or elsewhere in <strong>Vietnam</strong>?<br />
Compared to elsewhere, there are still very<br />
few tourists. And Phong Nha isn’t only a<br />
place to see caves or go trekking, but an<br />
opportunity to visit rural <strong>Vietnam</strong> on a<br />
bicycle or a motorbike taxi. People who<br />
spend a few days here find a variety of<br />
things to do at different budgets, levels of<br />
fitness and ability.<br />
For more info on Phong Nha Farmstay and<br />
visiting the caves, click on phong-nha-cave.<br />
com
wordvietnam.com | <strong>September</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>Word</strong> | 3
Sách Chuyên Quảng Cáo - Not For Sale