By BRYAN LAVERY By BRYAN LAVERY № 55 | <strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> 2015 № 48 | July/August 2014 18 | <strong>September</strong>/<strong>October</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 9 22 www.eatdrink.ca restaurants T Sixthirtynine: A Distinctive Taste of Oxford County: Sixthirtynine is one of Ontario’s best A Distinctive Taste of Oxford County Destination: sixthirtynine, in Woodstock ravel the back roads and country trails and familiarize yourself with the proud Quaker settlements, Amish farmgates, rural hamlets and a variety of trails where you can see, touch and savour first-hand the many unique regional tastes distinctive to Oxford County. <strong>The</strong> small, historic town of Woodstock, population 38,000, is home to Sixthirtynine, which is emerging as the embodiment of one of Ontario’s best destination farm-to-table restaurants. By definition, a destination restaurant is usually one that has a Chef Eric Boyar flanked by his partners — wife compelling appeal to entice diners from Jennifer (left) and mother Pauline Bucek beyond its region. Interestingly, the earliest concept of a destination restaurant with a natural edge has set the mood for originates in France with the Michelin the recent redesign by Kelly Oliver of Oliver Guide, which rates restaurants as to whether Design in Woodstock. <strong>The</strong> renewed space they merit a special visit or detour by introduces a crisp palette of navy, grey, motorists. and white, and natural brown tones in the Newly refurbished to a higher standard of floor, as well as a few strategic bio-ethanol comfort, sixthirtynine is a tasteful 30-seat room fireplaces and solid comfortable dining offering menus that are tied to the rhythms of chairs upholstered in platinum fabric. the growing season in Oxford County. After Chef Eric Boyar’s culinary repertoire, a decade its synthesis of gastronomy, service rooted in classical French technique, and comfort has matured into something was developed in such Toronto hotspots substantial and remarkable. as Splendido, Mistura, Goldfish and the A full wall in reclaimed lumber, ceiling Metropolitan Hotel. Chef and his wife beams and a new bar top in raw lumber Jennifer returned to his Woodstock home in 2005, and opened sixthirtynine with his mother Pauline Bucek. Pauline and Jennifer are hands-on partners and both work the front of house, often spelling off one another. Boyar and sous chef Wes Quehl deliver a homegrown Oxford County “from scratch” farm-to-table experience. <strong>The</strong>y are among the leading-edge chefs showcasing the distinctive diversity of culinary regionalism that safeguards rural knowledge, its wisdom, as well as its traditions. Dedicated to building and nurturing strong personal <strong>The</strong> Crew relationships with farmers and producers, destination farmto-table restaurants. Chef Eric Boyar’s culinary repertoire, rooted in classical French technique, was developed in such Toronto hotspots as Splendido, Mistura, Goldfish and the Metropolitan Hotel. Chef and his wife Jennifer returned to his Woodstock home in 2005, and with his mother Pauline Bucek opened Sixthirtynine. Pauline and Jennifer are hands-on partners and both work the front of house. www.eatdrink.ca/a-distinctivetaste-of-oxford-county/ 10 #55 — Sept/Oct 2015 Saffron and “Secrets of the Back Forty”: After years of travelling concessions and scouting back roads we have 8 www.eatdrink.ca food writer at large Saffron and “Secrets of the Back Forty” A fter years of travelling concessions Cultivated as a kitchen-garden staple and scouting back roads we for generations, saffron’s role has been have begun to notice a renewed defined in traditional, regional poultry and prevalence of hand-painted signs noodle dishes in Pennsylvania’s Amish and and newly erected farmgate stalls at the end Mennonite kitchens. Sweet and warm with an of long laneways throughout Huron County’s intense aromatic flavour, it confers earthiness countryside. <strong>The</strong> modest chalkboards and and is known for its sunny appearance. hand-crafted wooden signs announce: free (Saffron filaments need to be activated in hot run eggs, horseradish, honey, maple syrup, liquid or stock before use. Many cooks are sauerkraut, rhubarb, oblivious to this and strawberries, seasonal subsequently saffron’s vegetables and fruit, virtues continue to fresh-cut bouquets, escape them.) Despite baking and “No Sunday continuing speculation, Sales.” Often there’s no Sarah firmly rejects one there to receive the spring blooming, you, just a wooden box purple flowered crocus or a locked drawer into as a possible candidate, which to drop your simply referring to it as money. It is called the the “safferon” plant. honour system. I am left to wonder At six-thirty in the if these delicate morning we have already aromatic threads come travelled two hours from from field marigolds, the Bruce Peninsula. or calendula, which We are returning to are known for both the city when we pull their culinary and into the dirt laneway medicinal uses. Both off the beaten track. <strong>The</strong> farmgate is more the calendula and the safflower are often of a purpose built out-building flanking referred to as “poor man’s saffron.” Sarah a large greenhouse and the whitewashed scoffs at the idea of harvesting saffron from homestead for the family of ten. Sarah, an fields of wildflowers, especially now, during Old Order Mennonite, greets us wearing a planting season. She tells us that her mother solid-coloured dress of heavy broadcloth. A carefully removes the vivid crimson stigmas matching extra-long apron covers the dress. from each blossom individually before Her long hair is coiled into a tight bun, and drying them for weeks in a warm, dry place. her head is covered with a plain white cap Hooked by the quality and the familiar taste tied under her neck. She emanates industry, of saffron, the thought of cultivating it locally simplicity and modesty. and its many culinary applications makes Discussing the small packets of seasonal my head reel. In time, I have learned that the saffron she has for sale, I offer to lend her <strong>The</strong> potency of saffron is indeed a product of its Essential Saffron Companion on a return visit. terroir and how it is treated after it is harvested. “I have no time to read a book,” says Sarah, In the past, I have known saffron to impart a matter-of-factly. After several attempts to floral taste, honey sweetness or toasted, nutty, interrogate her about the plants her “safferon” and pungent flavours. is collected from, it still remains a mystery. In conversation, Sarah doesn’t give voice #48— July/Aug 2014 begun to notice a renewed prevalence of hand-painted signs and newly-erected farmgate stalls at the end of long laneways throughout Huron County’s countryside. <strong>The</strong> modest chalkboards and handcrafted wooden signs announce free run eggs, horseradish, honey, maple syrup, sauerkraut, rhubarb, strawberries, seasonal vegetables and fruit, fresh-cut bouquets, baking and “No Sunday Sales.” Often there’s no one there to receive you, just a wooden box or a locked drawer into which to drop your money. It is called the honour system. www.eatdrink.ca/ saffron-and-secrets-of-the-back-forty eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag Welcome to Wortley Village “One of Canada’s Coolest Neighbourhoods” <strong>The</strong> Heart of Old South <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Food Editor and Writer at Large BRYAN LAVERY brings years of experience in the restaurant and hospitality industry, as a chef, restaurant owner and consultant. Always on the lookout for the stories that <strong>Eatdrink</strong> should be telling, he helps shape the magazine both under his byline and behind the scenes.
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