Eatdrink #67 September/October 2017 "The Decade Issue"

By BRYAN LAVERY
By BRYAN LAVERY
№ 55 | September/October 2015
№ 48 | July/August 2014
18 | September/October 2017
9
22 www.eatdrink.ca
restaurants
T
Sixthirtynine: A Distinctive Taste
of Oxford County: Sixthirtynine is
one of Ontario’s best
A Distinctive Taste of Oxford County
Destination: sixthirtynine, in Woodstock
ravel the back roads and
country trails and familiarize
yourself with the proud
Quaker settlements, Amish
farmgates, rural hamlets and a variety
of trails where you can see, touch and
savour first-hand the many unique
regional tastes distinctive to Oxford
County. The small, historic town of
Woodstock, population 38,000, is home
to Sixthirtynine, which is emerging as
the embodiment of one of Ontario’s best
destination farm-to-table restaurants.
By definition, a destination
restaurant is usually one that has a
Chef Eric Boyar flanked by his partners — wife
compelling appeal to entice diners from
Jennifer (left) and mother Pauline Bucek
beyond its region. Interestingly, the
earliest concept of a destination restaurant with a natural edge has set the mood for
originates in France with the Michelin the recent redesign by Kelly Oliver of Oliver
Guide, which rates restaurants as to whether Design in Woodstock. The renewed space
they merit a special visit or detour by
introduces a crisp palette of navy, grey,
motorists.
and white, and natural brown tones in the
Newly refurbished to a higher standard of floor, as well as a few strategic bio-ethanol
comfort, sixthirtynine is a tasteful 30-seat room fireplaces and solid comfortable dining
offering menus that are tied to the rhythms of chairs upholstered in platinum fabric.
the growing season in Oxford County. After Chef Eric Boyar’s culinary repertoire,
a decade its synthesis of gastronomy, service rooted in classical French technique,
and comfort has matured into something was developed in such Toronto hotspots
substantial and remarkable.
as Splendido, Mistura, Goldfish and the
A full wall in reclaimed lumber, ceiling Metropolitan Hotel. Chef and his wife
beams and a new bar top in raw lumber Jennifer returned to his Woodstock home
in 2005, and opened sixthirtynine with
his mother Pauline Bucek. Pauline and
Jennifer are hands-on partners and both
work the front of house, often spelling off
one another.
Boyar and sous chef Wes Quehl deliver a
homegrown Oxford County “from scratch”
farm-to-table experience. They are among
the leading-edge chefs showcasing the
distinctive diversity of culinary regionalism
that safeguards rural knowledge, its
wisdom, as well as its traditions. Dedicated
to building and nurturing strong personal
The Crew
relationships with farmers and producers,
destination farmto-table
restaurants.
Chef Eric Boyar’s
culinary repertoire,
rooted in classical
French technique,
was developed in such
Toronto hotspots as
Splendido, Mistura,
Goldfish and the
Metropolitan Hotel.
Chef and his wife
Jennifer returned to
his Woodstock home
in 2005, and with his mother Pauline Bucek
opened Sixthirtynine. Pauline and Jennifer
are hands-on partners and both work the
front of house. www.eatdrink.ca/a-distinctivetaste-of-oxford-county/
10
#55 — Sept/Oct 2015
Saffron and “Secrets of the Back
Forty”: After years of travelling
concessions and scouting back roads we have
8 www.eatdrink.ca
food writer at large
Saffron and “Secrets of the Back Forty”
A
fter years of travelling concessions Cultivated as a kitchen-garden staple
and scouting back roads we
for generations, saffron’s role has been
have begun to notice a renewed defined in traditional, regional poultry and
prevalence of hand-painted signs noodle dishes in Pennsylvania’s Amish and
and newly erected farmgate stalls at the end Mennonite kitchens. Sweet and warm with an
of long laneways throughout Huron County’s intense aromatic flavour, it confers earthiness
countryside. The modest chalkboards and and is known for its sunny appearance.
hand-crafted wooden signs announce: free (Saffron filaments need to be activated in hot
run eggs, horseradish, honey, maple syrup, liquid or stock before use. Many cooks are
sauerkraut, rhubarb,
oblivious to this and
strawberries, seasonal
subsequently saffron’s
vegetables and fruit,
virtues continue to
fresh-cut bouquets,
escape them.) Despite
baking and “No Sunday
continuing speculation,
Sales.” Often there’s no
Sarah firmly rejects
one there to receive
the spring blooming,
you, just a wooden box
purple flowered crocus
or a locked drawer into
as a possible candidate,
which to drop your
simply referring to it as
money. It is called the
the “safferon” plant.
honour system.
I am left to wonder
At six-thirty in the
if these delicate
morning we have already
aromatic threads come
travelled two hours from
from field marigolds,
the Bruce Peninsula.
or calendula, which
We are returning to
are known for both
the city when we pull
their culinary and
into the dirt laneway
medicinal uses. Both
off the beaten track. The farmgate is more the calendula and the safflower are often
of a purpose built out-building flanking referred to as “poor man’s saffron.” Sarah
a large greenhouse and the whitewashed scoffs at the idea of harvesting saffron from
homestead for the family of ten. Sarah, an fields of wildflowers, especially now, during
Old Order Mennonite, greets us wearing a planting season. She tells us that her mother
solid-coloured dress of heavy broadcloth. A carefully removes the vivid crimson stigmas
matching extra-long apron covers the dress. from each blossom individually before
Her long hair is coiled into a tight bun, and drying them for weeks in a warm, dry place.
her head is covered with a plain white cap Hooked by the quality and the familiar taste
tied under her neck. She emanates industry, of saffron, the thought of cultivating it locally
simplicity and modesty.
and its many culinary applications makes
Discussing the small packets of seasonal my head reel. In time, I have learned that the
saffron she has for sale, I offer to lend her The potency of saffron is indeed a product of its
Essential Saffron Companion on a return visit. terroir and how it is treated after it is harvested.
“I have no time to read a book,” says Sarah, In the past, I have known saffron to impart a
matter-of-factly. After several attempts to floral taste, honey sweetness or toasted, nutty,
interrogate her about the plants her “safferon” and pungent flavours.
is collected from, it still remains a mystery. In conversation, Sarah doesn’t give voice
#48— July/Aug 2014
begun to notice a
renewed prevalence
of hand-painted signs
and newly-erected
farmgate stalls at the
end of long laneways
throughout Huron
County’s countryside.
The modest chalkboards
and handcrafted
wooden signs
announce free run
eggs, horseradish,
honey, maple syrup,
sauerkraut, rhubarb, strawberries, seasonal
vegetables and fruit, fresh-cut bouquets,
baking and “No Sunday Sales.” Often there’s no
one there to receive you, just a wooden box or a
locked drawer into which to drop your money.
It is called the honour system. www.eatdrink.ca/
saffron-and-secrets-of-the-back-forty
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Welcome
to
Wortley Village
“One of Canada’s
Coolest Neighbourhoods”
The Heart
of Old South
Eatdrink Food Editor and Writer at Large BRYAN
LAVERY brings years of experience in the restaurant
and hospitality industry, as a chef, restaurant owner and
consultant. Always on the lookout for the stories that
Eatdrink should be telling, he helps shape the magazine
both under his byline and behind the scenes.