Tokyo Weekender - September 2017

SEPTEMBER 2017 

Japan’s number one English language magazine 

AUTUMN 

EYES 

HARAJUKU LASHES AND MORE 

TIPS FROM A/W17 

GACKT 

"THERE'S AN EMPTINESS IN 

PEOPLE'S HEARTS" 

WHAT MAKES YOU GET UP IN THE MORNING? 

PLUS: "Life in Transit" Photo Story, Osaka on Two Wheels, the Tokyo Café Serving Prophecies, and UFC's Big Comeback

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22 

30 32 

34 

radar 

THIS MONTH’S HEAD TURNERS 

8 AREA GUIDE: BANCHO 

An area few seem to know about may hold 

the key to the ultimate lifestyle in Tokyo. 

10 STYLE: HAPPY MEDIUM 

Breeze through autumn with transitional 

pieces to take you from summer to winter. 

12 BEAUTY: AUTUMN EYES 

The Fall/Winter 2017 catwalks provide plenty 

of inspiration for creative makeup looks. 

14 TRENDS: ICE CREAM CRAWL 

Some of our favorite ice cream, gelato and 

shaved ice shops in the city. 

18 THE CONCIERGE 

Editor's picks from our roundup of top spots 

and services in the city. 

in-depth 

COFFEE-BREAK READS 

22 THE FIGHTERS 

As UFC Fight Night approaches later this 

month, we look at the sport's global rise 

and newest Japanese star. 

26 COFFEE AND PROPHECY 

The curious case of a Tokyo café serving 

cappuccinos along with inspirational 

messages from God. 

28 IS "IKIGAI" THE SECRET TO 

HAPPINESS? 

Possibly the next buzzword to come out 

of Japan, ikigai refers to one's reason for 

being – but can it help change your life? 

30 OSAKA ON TWO WHEELS 

Cycling just might be the best way to 

explore Japan's third largest city. 

32 GACKT 

The musician and actor on his new film, and 

why people are so disconnected. 

34 LIFE IN TRANSIT 

Photographer Charles Levi focuses his lens 

on the subtle moments on Tokyo's trains. 

guide 

CULTURE ROUNDUP 

38 ART 

Otherwordly images Belgium, the golden age 

of flowers, and traditional nihonga works. 

40 AGENDA 

Rakugo in English, a percussion performance, 

and a jellyfish tunnel. 

42 SOCIETY 

Tokyo's longest-running social column. 

SEPTEMBER 2017

SEPTEMBER 2017 

Publisher 

President 

Executive Producer 

Editor in Chief 

Senior Editors 

Creative Director 

Features Writer 

Contributors 

Sales Director 

Sales Executives 

Marketing Director 

Media Consultant 

Media Producers 

ENGAWA Co., Ltd. 

Takanobu Ushiyama 

Naoya Takahashi 

Annemarie Luck 

Alec Jordan 

Lisa Wallin 

Liam Ramshaw 

Matthew Hernon 

Vivian Morelli 

Bill Hersey 

Bunny Bissoux 

Takaaki Murai 

Hirofumi Ohuchi 

Kahori Terakawa 

Ayane Sugawara 

Azusa Yoshida 

Jessica Yumi Idomoto 

Mary Rudow 

Claudia Sun 

Yuda Chou 

EST. Corky Alexander, 1970 

SSU Bld. 1F 4-12-8 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku 

Tokyo, Japan 151-0051 

(03) 6432-9948 / (03) 6438-9432 (fax) 

info@engawa.global 

To subscribe to Tokyo Weekender, please visit 

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広告に関するお問い合わせ先 

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Opinions expressed by Weekender contributors 

are not necessarily those of the publisher 

Published by ENGAWA Co., Ltd. 

4 | SEPTEMBER 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER

@bapawn: Despite the picture perfect image we’ve got 

on the cover, there’s plenty of deep thinking going on 

in this issue’s pages. To start with, do you believe in 

fortune tellers? 

@mizrama: Interesting question! I actually used to have 

my own set of tarot cards, and there was part of me that 

wanted to believe. These days I’m more of a cynic. What 

about you – would you ever visit Yogen Café in Shinjuku 

[page 26] to receive one of their prophecies? 

@bapawn: After reading the article, I’d be tempted to 

go when I was in need of a pick me up. Their prophecies 

seem to be on the positive side, overall. But I probably 

fall into that category of Westerner who has sought for 

meaning outside of their own culture, so I might be 

trying to seek enlightenment at a Zen temple or some 

place like that. 

@mizrama: How about using the Japanese concept of 

ikigai then [page 28]? Finding your reason for being – or 

at least, the thing that gets you up in the morning? 

@bapawn: That’s be my daughter, I think. She gets up 

early But what I do like in respect to the concept of 

ikigai is the idea of finding small joys throughout the 

day. It’s something my wife always talks about, and I 

was happy to see the idea pop up again in that article. 

@mizrama: Yes, me too. I guess it’s similar to concepts 

like mindfulness or even that little guide called The 

Secret that became popular a few years back. It’s always 

interesting to realize that different cultures all over the 

world suffer the same kind of existential angst. 

@bapawn: Yes, I was surprised to read that even a 

character like Gackt [page 32] is in touch with that sense 

of disconnection. 

@mizrama: He seems to get the balance right – being 

aware of the “emptiness in people’s hearts,” as he puts 

it, while being able to find his own sense of inner peace. 

@bapawn: Who knows … maybe Gackt will be the next 

person to bring out a self-help book. 

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WHAT’S ON OUR RADAR THIS MONTH... 

Autumn style and beauty inspiration, the most Instagrammable ice creams in Tokyo, 

and a neighborhood that could just be the city's best kept secret. 

TOKYO WEEKENDER | | SEPTEMBER 2017 | 7

AREA GUIDE 

BANCHO: 

TOKYO’S 

BEST KEPT 

SECRET? 

Words by Lisa Wallin 

An area few seem to know about may 

hold the key to the ultimate lifestyle 

experience in the Big Mikan 

Bancho, a prestigious residential area in the 

center of Tokyo, offers an unexpected respite 

from the hustle and bustle of the urban metropolis. 

Trees line the streets in this urban 

oasis that is just a stone’s throw away from the Imperial 

Palace, and is home to a colorful history and a long lineage 

of cultural greats. 

CITY OF SAMURAI 

During the Edo period, Bancho was home to samurai 

vassals and the Tokugawa clan’s bodyguards. Located 

strategically on the west bank of the Edo Castle (now 

Imperial Palace) moat, soldiers were always nearby and 

on call in the event of an attack. The area was comprised 

of hundreds of samurai residences and training schools, 

with the district split up into six sections numbered from 

one to six, according to their according squadrons. Bancho 

was originally named for the guard houses that samurai 

vassals lived in, called daibansho. 

CENTER OF CULTURE 

With the Meiji period came a thirst for knowledge and culture, and this 

time Bancho acted as a nerve center for many intellectuals thanks to its 

central location. Novelists, composers, politicians, artists and kabuki actors 

gathered and exchanged ideas here. One such individual, Takeo Arishima, 

was a novelist famed for his depiction of the societal changes women faced 

in the early 20th century. Bancho remains a cultural hub today and famous 

institutes such as the National Museum of Modern Art, Kioi Hall, Sophia 

University, and the National Theatre of Japan are just a few of the highly 

regarded cultural institutions within walking distance. 

LIFESTYLE OF LEISURE 

Being a primarily residential area, Bancho is a quiet, comfortable neighborhood 

with tree-lined avenues and picture perfect cafés tucked away behind 

lush greenery. Biancane, an authentic Tuscan restaurant, has had its home 

here since 2008, offering mouthwatering Italian full-course dinners and 

lunches in a traditional setting. Exclusive Murakami Kaishindo is an invite- 


only restaurant and confectionery shop 

where first-time diners and sweet shoppers 

can only enter with an introduction from an 

existing client (barring lunchtime). Locals 

living in the area are more likely to meet 

the right people to get them an “in” for this 

swank store. 

For the health-conscious, an athletic 

park, a tennis center, several parks and 

the 5km Imperial Palace Loop couldn’t be 

closer. For those who prioritize their health 

and well-being, this district makes it easy to 

fulfill those goals. 

KING OF CONVENIENCE 

Bancho’s central location means that 

everything a resident could ever need 

or want is easily obtainable within a one 

kilometer radius. The area offers easy 

access to several major train stations, as 

well as sightseeing spots like the Imperial 

Palace and Sotobori Park, known for its 

cherry blossoms in spring. It’s also home to 

some of the nation’s top-rated schools, legal 

firms, and clinics. Several embassies are 

located nearby, including the British and 

Belgian embassies, and for those entertaining 

guests, the upscale Hotel New Otani 

alone has 38 dining options, a spa and a 

beautiful Japanese-style garden to enjoy. 

Want to stay in Bancho? Using 60 years' 

experience as specialists in the central 

Tokyo real estate business, Mitsubishi 

Jisho Residence provides clients with 

immaculate properties in the most 

distinguished residential areas in Japan. 

Our fourteenth condominium offering, 

The Parkhouse Gobancho, is located in 

the Go Bancho area in Chiyoda Ward, 

just two minutes from Ichigaya Station. 

It will be ready for occupancy by 

September 2018. 

For more info visit www.mecsumai. 

com/international/en 

For showroom viewings and inquiries, 

please email mjrtph@mec-r.com

STYLE 

FENDI DRESS 

For its 2017 pre-fall collection, Italian luxury 

house Fendi has created soft, feminine and 

modern designs, like this baby doll mini dress. 

The dark coral shade of this dress and its wool 

and silk blend material make it the perfect 

transition piece between late summer days and 

those crisp first days of autumn. Pair it with 

platform sandals for an evening out, or with 

ballerinas or sandals for daytime. 

fendi.com 

BREEZE THROUGH AUTUMN WITH 

TRANSITIONAL PIECES THAT'LL HELP YOU 

SEGUE FROM SUMMER TO WINTER 

Compiled by Vivian Morelli 

CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA BOOTS 

The official start of autumn happens in September, so velvet 

once again makes an appearance. And just like pretty much 

every autumn, the plush textile found itself on numerous Fall 

2017 runways, meaning velvet is big this season. While draping 

yourself in the material is a fashion faux pas, these ankle boots 

will add the perfect dose of velvet to any outfit. Created by the 

quirky Charlotte Olympia label, this pair of boots is made of 

soft black velvet and is adorned with an embroidered spider 

and a gold spiderweb-trimmed zip. 

charlotteolympia.com

ACNE STUDIOS SWEATSHIRT 

The normcore trend has come and gone, but unassuming grey 

sweatshirts are here to stay. Formerly reserved for the practice of 

various sports, they are now a wardrobe staple that will help you 

stop wondering what to wear on weekends. This version, designed 

by Swedish label Acne Studios, is cut from a soft cotton-jersey and 

adorned with the house’s simple emoji logo. Pair it with jeans and 

sneakers for what will quickly become your go-to look. 

acnestudios.com 

MIU MIU SKIRT 

Channel your inner school girl with this tartan mini 

skirt, which Italian brand Miu Miu released right on 

time for the back-to-school season. Crafted from 

weighty wool-tweed, this playful number features some 

beautifully pressed pleats and vivid hues. You can pair 

yours with a blazer and loafers to get the full school 

girl look, but we prefer to wear ours with an oversized 

sweatshirt and ankle boots for a more casual vibe. 

miumiu.com 

BAUME & MERCIER WATCH 

Founded in 1830 in Geneva, Baume & Mercier is one of Switzerland’s longest 

established watchmakers. Engineered for precision and meticulously tested 

through all stages of production, the Geneva-made timepieces are designed 

to last for decades and passed down to future generations. We love this 

classic 18-karat red gold watch, powered by the automatic Swiss SW300 

movement. The simple dial design and dark brown alligator strap makes it 

appropriate for both the office and formal evenings out. 

baume-et-mercier.com 

THOM BROWNE JACKET 

September is typhoon season in Japan, so this 

windbreaker will come in handy for those sporadic 

gusts of wind and rain. The New York-based label is 

known for its edgy, playful and athletic designs, and 

funnily enough this particular jacket was made in 

Japan. While the jacket looks sporty, the detailing, such 

as the buttoned cuffs and the luxurious, thick navy and 

white ripstop fabric add a sophisticated touch. 

thombrowne.com

BEAUTY 

MAGNETIC METALS 

METALLICS AS SEEN AT: 

Pamella Roland and The Blonds 

FROSTY GREYS AS SEEN AT: 

Derek Lam and Victoria Beckham 

Start with sparkling lids, but also add shine on 

the lips and a touch of highlighter for overall 

radiance. Or opt for the moody intellectual 

look with grey eyeshadow and soft mascara. 

WHETHER YOU PREFER TO REFLECT THE SEASON’S FIERY HUES OR 

BRIGHTEN THE MOOD WITH DRAMATIC COLOR BLOCKING, THE FALL/ 

WINTER 2017 CATWALKS PROVIDED PLENTY OF INSPIRATION FOR 

CREATIVE EYE MAKEUP LOOKS 

Compiled by Annemarie Luck 

ROSE TINTED 

AS SEEN AT: Marchesa, 

Altuzarra, and Proenza Schouler 

From soft ballerina pink to 

brighter apricot, 2017’s rosy lid 

look calls to mind Girl with a Pearl 

Earring. It was complemented 

with bleached brows and lashes 

for an utterly ethereal beauty. 

Keep lips in the same pastel 

color range, only going as far as 

magenta for a stronger impact.

GRAPHIC EYELINER 

AS SEEN AT: Yves Saint Laurent, Versace, and Balmain 

Think straight or curved lines of black (or even white) 

eyeliner that swoop across the center of the lid rather than 

just above the lashes, giving the arc a floating effect. Or a 

lower lid completely filled in with black liner but with a top 

border that stretches straight across, above the crease, and 

meets the outer corners of the brows in a dramatic flourish. 

COLOR BLOCKING 

AS SEEN AT: Emilio De La Morena, Zadig Et Voltaire, 

Anna Sui, Oscar de la Renta 

We love the powerful color combo seen at Oscar de la Renta, 

which combined a thick band of fuchsia eyeliner nearly 

covering the lower lid, and a light blue shadow directly 

above it – no blending or shading, just pure, clashing, twotone 

statements. 

HARAJUKU LASHES 

AS SEEN AT: Jeremy Scott, Tadashi Shoji, and MSGM 

The doll look is in with bold fake lashes decorated in 

glitter and pops of bright color. Other takes on the style 

include clumpy morning-after lashes, or bottom-heavy 

eyes where all the fuss is on the lower lashes. Vogue calls 

it “lash maximalism.”

TRENDS 

Tokyo Ice Cream Crawl 

Compiled by Lisa Wallin 

September fools us into thinking it’s fall, but the lingering hot weather tells us 

otherwise. To cool down, make a pilgrimage to some of our favorite ice cream, gelato 

and shaved ice shops in the city 

GRAM FACTORY 

THE STORY This new addition to 

Shimokitazawa’s trendy eatery selection 

is a shaved ice shop with a difference. 

Gram Factory isn’t shy about 

how it wants you to let everyone 

know about it: the store front simply 

reads #Gram, hashtag included. 

WHY WE LOVE THEM Its chic, 

ceiling-to-floor white tile interior 

coupled with a counter crowded with 

rainbow-filled jars or every kind of 

colorful candy and glorious topping 

makes it a savvy social media snapper’s 

heaven. 

WHAT TO TRY If you want to unleash 

your creativity and mix and match to 

your heart’s content, go for the milk 

base called #milkgram, which works 

as an empty canvas. For those less 

creatively inclined, the #OREOgram 

is a hard-to-resist cookie-covered 

mountain of decadence. 

2-15-1 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku, 

www.instagram.com/gram_factory 

GOMAYA KUKI 

THE STORY Opened in collaboration 

with Kuki Sangyo Corporation, purveyor 

of sesame products, Gomaya 

Kuki has set out to be the number 

one sesame ice cream maker 

in the world. 

WHY WE LOVE THEM Not only is the 

rich, creamy flavor of the ice cream 

delicious, sesame is also a great 

source of magnesium and a plethora 

of other minerals, so it’s (almost) a 

healthy treat. 

WHAT TO TRY Kuro Cho Noukou 

(Kuro Super Rich) uses about 9,000 

black sesame seeds, making it the 

ultimate sesame-flavored sweet. 

1F Minami Harajuku Bldg., 4-6-9 

Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, gomayakuki.jp 


SERENDIPITY 3 

THE STORY A fairytale in the making, this 

coffee house boutique started with the 

serendipitous meeting of three dance class 

students in 1950s New York City with barely 

300 dollars between them. Over 60 years 

later, already named a “legendary dessert 

destination” in the Big Apple, they opened 

their Japanese flagship store halfway across 

the world. 

WHY WE LOVE THEM The interior is a 

playful mix of nostalgic old-timey ice cream 

parlor and Mad Hatter’s art gallery, giving it 

a fun, whimsical feel. 

WHAT TO TRY Both the Matcha Ice Cream 

Frrrozen Hot Chocolate and the Cherry Pie 

Sundae are Japan-only offerings, and are 

perfect choices for making people back home 

feel jealous. 

3F Tokyu Plaza Omotesando Harajuku, 4-30-3 

Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, serendipity3.jp/en 

BALLON D’ESSAI 

GALLERY AND CAFÉ 

THE STORY This latte specialty 

shop-meets-art gallery is a cozy 

hideaway from the busy streets of 

Shimokitazawa. Over the last few 

years, they’ve branched out to offer 

exclusive barista-made kakigori, all 

year-round. 

WHY WE LOVE THEM Not only do 

they serve great coffee, they also 

provide a venue for the meeting of 

minds, where people can come together 

and discuss art – both of the 

latte and the traditional kind. 

WHAT TO TRY The espresso shaved 

ice is a sensory experience. Pour 

freshly brewed espresso over the 

milk-flavored ice flakes and watch 

it soak up the caffeinated black gold 

before your eyes, as the aroma fills the 

room. As if that weren't enough, a rich 

coffee jelly treat awaits at the bottom. 

2-30-11 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku, 

ballondessai.com 

ROLL ICE CREAM FACTORY 

THE STORY This New York-style ice cream shop opened in 

June this year and has become a fast favorite for Harajuku- 

bound youngsters looking for an Instagrammable treat. 

WHY WE LOVE THEM With four ice cream flavors, 

20 mix-in ingredients, 10 sauces, and more than 40 

toppings to choose from, every visit is a new flavor 

experience. 

WHAT TO TRY Use your imagination and make your 

own special combo – that’s the beauty of this place. For 

those who find it difficult to make decisions, choose 

one of the shop’s recommended combinations. We like 

Yokan Whisper, which is a full-on Japanese flavor explosion 

of green tea ice cream, shiratama, yokan, kinako 

and kuromitsu. 

4-28-12 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, rollicecreamfactory.com 


[ PROMOTION ] 

Niigata has abundant 

natural resources, 

especially clear 

water and fertile 

land, making it the 

number one region for production 

of koshihikari rice, and one of the 

top producers of sake, edamame 

and a variety of mushrooms. So, it 

comes as no surprise that it’s also 

a foodie’s paradise, with many 

local specialties you won’t find 

anywhere else. To get a taste of 

Niigata without a pricey train ticket, 

drop by the Tabisuru Shintora 

Market in Tokyo to find rural fare 

that’ll make your mouth water. 

The four stands, which you can 

find just outside Toranomon Hills, 

each have their own distinctive 

menus, offering a range of delectable 

delights for the adventurous 

gourmet. Here’s a quick guide to 

the five different Niigata cities that 

are showcasing their cuisine until 

the end of September. 

Niigata for Foodies 

GET A TASTE OF THE PREFECTURE’S CULINARY DELIGHTS AT THE 

TABISURU SHINTORA MARKET IN TOKYO 

NAGAOKA: AN EXPLOSION 

OF FLAVORS 

Nagaoka city is known for Tochio 

aburaage, a deep-fried tofu pouch that 

can be up to three times the size of 

traditional aburaage. For lunch, try the 

jumbo aburaage in the Tochio Aburaage 

Don, which comes with a side of miso 

soup and pickled vegetables. The Nagaoka 

Bento offers a variety of smaller 

dishes for those looking for a true taste 

of the region. The dinner menu boasts a 

selection of lighter fare, including edamame 

served in a firework shell, which 

is available in three different sizes. The 

stand also has an extensive selection of 

16 different types of sake, offering sake 

lovers a chance to taste some of Niigata’s 

finest brews. 


SANJO AND TSUBAME: SPICE IT UP 

Metalworking regions Sanjo and Tsubame are known for their hearty meals meant 

to feed hardworking craftsmen. As such, this stand’s lunch options are guaranteed 

to give you the energy to power through the rest of your day. The Kouba Bento 

changes weekly, giving guests the chance to find a new favorite. The seabura (back 

fat) ramen, despite its name, has a surprisingly delicate and light flavored soup to 

balance out its coarsely chopped noodles. For dinner, Sanjo-grown turmeric takes 

center stage with appearances in spicy chicken wings and a spicy cheese gratin. 

More robust fare, like black pork gyoza and kurumafu (a wheat gluten and flour 

dish), are well-matched with the local craft beers available. Among 

the offerings are pilsners from Echigo Beer, Japan’s 

first microbrewery, and Niigata Beer 

pale ales. 

MURAKAMI: SEASONED SERVINGS 

Visit the castle town of Murakami in winter and you’ll be met with rows of salmon hanging 

from rooftops across town. The area’s specialty, shiobiki dried salmon, finds its place in an 

aged shiobiki dried salmon bento in this stand’s lunch menu, alongside Murakami’s other 

mainstay, Murakami beef. The beef bento is served on a bed of soft and chewy koshihikari 

rice from Iwafune. For dinner, try beef-on-a-stick, or a shiobiki salmon packet cooked in 

oil with shiitake mushrooms. For those with a sweet tooth, there’s a soft serve ice cream 

mixed with green tea powder and garnished with nuts, honey and a dash of salt. 

NIIGATA SPECIALTIES 

AVAILABLE FOR A 

LIMITED TIME 

TOKAMACHI: ARTFUL 

DELICACIES 

Tokamachi’s artistic tendencies aren’t 

reserved for their triennial outdoor 

art festival, they’re also present in the 

city’s food culture. Hegi soba, a regional 

specialty, is named for the hegi dish it’s 

served on. The noodles are made using 

funori seaweed, giving them a distinctively 

smooth yet firm texture. They are 

placed delicately on the hegi dish in bite 

size portions, making them a breeze to 

pick up and slurp down. Locally raised 

Tsumari pork has a natural sweetness 

that is enhanced when served with salt, 

green onions and a squeeze of fresh 

lemon. Pair either dish with a locally 

produced dry, crisp sake. 

For a flavorful feast, make the 

Tabisuru Shintora Market a 

must-visit this month as it’ll be 

your last chance to try these 

sumptuous Niigata specialties so 

close to home. From October, a 

new set of cities will showcase 

their wares and dishes at the 

market, but until then, Niigata 

cuisine and beverages are yours 

for the taking. Accompanying the 

stands and their appetizing eats is 

the Tabisuru store, with selected 

offerings, and the Tabisuru 

café that serves dishes made 

with Niigata-sourced, seasonal 

ingredients. 

Tabisuru Shintora Market: 

Jul 5-Sep 29, shop and café: 

Jul 5-Oct 1. Address: 2-16 

Nishi-Shinbashi, Minato-ku. 

www.tabisuru-market.jp

Looking for a great place to eat, shop, sleep or play in Tokyo? Welcome to Weekender's 

roundup of recommended restaurants, hotels, stores, salons and more. Here, we share 

this month's editor's picks, but for the full lineup – as well as reader discounts and 

special offers – simply head to www.tokyoweekender.com/the-concierge 

Elana Jade Club 360 

In need of some pampering? Elana Jade offers a range of deluxe 

beauty treatments that will have you looking beautiful from 

head to toe. All products used in our organic skincare lines are 

delivered by internationally trained and experienced therapists. 

Special offer: Get 20% off leg waxing (¥4,800 for half leg, ¥8,400 

for full leg), valid until September 30. 

Club 360 is Tokyo’s premier fitness and rehabilitation 

center, offering personal training, physiotherapy, sports 

massage, exercise classes, boxing and various classes for 

children. Whilst getting in shape, make sure you recover 

with a sports massage from one of Club 360’s highly qualified therapists. 

Special offer: Mention Tokyo Weekender and receive your 

first personal training session for just ¥5,400. 

HEALTH, BEAUTY & FITNESS | EDITORS CHOICE HOTELS ABOUT TOWN | EDITORS | EDITORS CHOICE CHOICE 

www.elanajade.com 

03-6453-9319 

4F NS Azabu Juban Building, 3-6-2 Azabu Juban, Minato-ku 

www.club360.jp 

03-6434-9667 

B1 Cma3 Building, 3-1-35 Motoazabu, Minato-ku 

Owl Café Search 

Japan is famed for its wide 

variety of animal cafés, with 

owl cafés being one of the 

latest to join the lineup. This 

new website provides all the infor- 

HEALTH, BEAUTY & FITNESS | EDITORS CHOICE 

mation you need on where to find 

one of these feathery creatures to pet 

while sipping on a cuppa. Launching 

their English site this month, Owl 

Café Search lets you search by area, 

and includes details such as price, 

opening hours, and contact info for 

each café listed. 

www.owlcafe-search.com 


Fujimoto Dental Clinic 

At this Ginza-based clinic, which was founded in 1981, you’ll 

not only receive world-class specialist restorative and periodontal 

dental care, but you’ll also be in the expert hands 

of Dr. Kohei Fujimoto. He is fluent in English, a graduate of 

the University of Washington’s Graduate Periodontics Program, and 

certified as a Diplomate of the American Board of Periodontology. 

Appointments can be made via phone. 

ABOUT TOWN | EDITORS CHOICE 

www.fujimoto-dental.com 

03-5551-0051 

4F Kami-Pulp Kaikan, 3-9-11 Ginza, Chuo-ku 

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Coto Work to bring you 

the latest professional 

opportunities 

JAVA WEB DEVELOPER 

We are looking for a creative and self-motivated Java Web Developer 

who is interested in joining our Core Product Development team. 

Requirements: 

- 2+ years’ experience working in Java EE and with Spring 

- Experience working with Web Services (REST or SOAP), XML, 

MySQL, Hibernate and Apache Tomcat (Groovy is an advantage) 

- Basic knowledge of HTML, JQuery and Javascript 

- Comfortable working with Linux and/or Windows 

- Permission to work in Japan 

- Languages: Spoken/written English and Japanese is an advantage 

(company is bilingual) 

Location: Central Tokyo 

Salary: Competitive (based on experience) 

ENGINEERING CONSULTANT 

Our company connects universities/research institutes and the 

real world, using virtual and real-world solutions. We are looking 

for a structural engineer who will be responsible for the design of 

general architecture programs, supervision of designs, technical 

innovation surrounding the construction field and structural design 

consulting work. 

Requirements: 

- 5+ years’ experience in structural design 

- Experience in project and construction management 

- Experience in design/planning of wind power generation facilities 

- Languages: business-level Japanese 

Location: Central Tokyo 


CREATIVE DESIGNER 

Triumph International is seeking a designer to deliver an ongoing 

collection of product designs, in line with seasonal trends, our 

global creative vision, and our design DNA principles. The ideal 

candidate will be a team player, be able to travel frequently, have 

strong communication skills, and possess exceptional consumer 

and competitor understanding. . 

Requirements: 

- 2/3+ years’ experience in intimate/apparel/fashion industries 

- Trend researching experience 

- Design tech packing experience 

- PLM system knowledge 

- Fashion market knowledge 

- CAD design skills: Photoshop/Illustrator 

- University degree 

- Languages: business-level English and Japanese 

Location: Triumph Tokyo office 


BRAND COMMUNICATION ASSISTANT 

Sloggi Japan is looking for a brand communication expert to lead and 

develop regional marketing programs. The role includes managing 

the advertising and promotion budget, assisting with studying and 

analyzing consumer trends, and activities such as digital marketing, 

brand communication, retail marketing, brand merchandising, and 

store design. 

Requirements: 

- 3+ years’ work experience 

- 3+ years’ brand or communication experience in apparel, retail, or 

related industries is preferred 

- Experience with products targeting age group 20s to 30s is 

preferable 

- Analysis and proposal creation experience 

- University degree 

- Language: Japanese and basic English 

Location: Tokyo 

Salary: Competitive (based on experience 

To apply for these jobs and view more opportunities, visit 

www.tokyoweekender.com/careers

CONTEMPORARY CONNECTIONS 

We're having an existential moment: from capturing emotions on Tokyo's trains, to 

understanding the Japanese term that refers to our reason for being, and visiting a 

prophecy-serving café. Plus: the global rise of UFC, and how to fall for Osaka.

THE 

FIGHTERS 

Words by Bunny Bissoux

As UFC Fight Night 117 in Japan 

approaches later this month, 

featuring one of the most exciting 

rematches in recent MMA history, 

we look at how the sport’s 

popularity has risen globally while 

declining in Japan – and the new 

local star who could help turn 

things around at home 

UFC 197: Jones v Saint Preux, Getty/Zuffa LLC 

It’s been two years since 

current no. 7 ranking 

light heavyweight 

Ovince Saint Preux met 

no. 6 ranking Mauricio 

“Shogun” Rua inside the 

cage on the latter’s home 

turf in Brazil. Despite being 

a last-minute replacement 

as Shogun’s opponent and 

having almost a decade 

less fight experience than 

the Brazilian, Saint Preux 

stunned the masses when he 

knocked out Shogun, ending 

the match in just 34 seconds 

to take the win. This month, 

on September 23, the two 

are set to face off again as 

UFC holds its fifth live event 

in Japan at Saitama Super 

Arena. Fans of the sport are 

itching to find out: was Saint 

Preux’s unexpected knockout 

a stroke of luck? Will he be 

able to endure a fight that 

might go five rounds? Looking 

ahead to the rematch, 

the fighter tells Weekender: 

“I'm going to take it how I 

can take it. If it goes all five 

rounds, I’m prepared to go 

all five rounds, if I can do it 

in 34 seconds again, or even 

shorter than that, then I'll 

take that too.” 


UFC 198: Shogun v Anderson , Getty/Zuffa LLC 

THE INFAMOUS 1976 

WRESTLER VS. BOXER 

FIGHT BETWEEN 

ANTONIO INOKI AND 

MUHAMMAD ALI 

MAY HAVE BEEN A 

DISASTER IN TERMS 

OF EXECUTION, BUT 

THE AUDIENCE’S 

FASCINATION WAS 

UNDENIABLE 

This is the kind of unpredictable 

excitement that captivates both 

fans’ and fighters’ passion for 

MMA (mixed martial arts) – 

compelling, real fights where 

anything can happen. 

A precursor to modern MMA was the 

vale tudo (“anything goes”) tournaments in 

Brazil where fighters from different backgrounds 

and disciplines would compete 

against each other in full contact combat 

with few rules or regulations. Since the 

1960s the legendary Gracie family has been 

at the center of the scene, setting out to 

prove that Brazilian jiu-jitsu was the strongest 

and most effective style of fighting, later 

bringing vale tudo to the US and Japan. 

Japan itself has a unique and significant 

history of martial arts – a long lineage 

holding the origins of karate, judo and 

Japanese jiu-jitsu – but it’s in pro wrestling 

that Japanese MMA has its earliest roots. 

The infamous 1976 “wrestler vs. boxer” 

fight between Antonio Inoki and Muhammad 

Ali may have been a disaster in terms 

of execution, but the audience’s fascination 

was undeniable. A combination of hard hitting 

“strong style” matches and many of the 

wrestlers’ martial arts backgrounds made 

the perfect breeding ground for crossovers 

and offshoots to develop. 

The 90s and early 2000s saw now 

defunct Japanese promotion companies 

such as Pancrase, Shooto and Pride evolving 

rapidly, gaining attention from abroad, and 

at their peak even garnering national television 

coverage for annual sold out events on 

New Year’s Eve. A Japanese icon emerged 

in the form of Kazushi Sakuraba whose 

impressive overseas victories included wins 

over several members of the prestigious 

Gracie clan, giving fans a hero to champion 

on an international level. 

In the early 1990s the term “mixed 

martial arts” was widely adopted, and 

cemented by the foundation of the Ultimate 

Fighting Championship (UFC) in 

1993. While the Japanese scene had been 

flourishing, MMA’s early development in 

the States was plagued by criticism of its 

overt violence, struggles with regulations, 

legal difficulties and broadcasting issues, 

which stagnated the growth of the industry 

and sent many of their athletes overseas. 

On the brink of bankruptcy, UFC was sold to 

Zuffa LLC in 2001 for $2 million. Through 

increased advertising, media deals and 

a focus on global expansion, slowly and 

steadily the company built up its reputation. 

New safety measures were enforced, pay per 

view events increased, and each year they 

advanced into new territories, buying out 

smaller, struggling promotions and develop- 

UFC Fight Night: Saint Preux v Oezdemir, Getty/Zuffa LLC 


ing an increasingly diverse roster of talent 

as fan numbers snowballed. Sixteen years 

later the company is valued at $4.2 billion, 

and the name UFC has become synonymous 

with MMA everywhere. 

Meanwhile, Japanese companies began 

to lose their top fighters to Western promotions 

and struggled to keep hold of fans’ attention 

as a string of scandals and closures 

around the mid-2000s caused the popularity 

of the sport in Japan to decline. An aging 

Sakuraba could no longer match his former 

victories, fans’ attention shifted to other 

sports, and MMA in Japan slipped back 

almost entirely underground. In a country 

where there was once such a wealth of 

home grown interest, can the sport ever 

return to its former glory days, and if so, 

will UFC have any significant part to play 

in its revival? 

(11 wins, 0 losses). Inoue made his UFC debut 

in Singapore earlier this year, defeating MMA can be rebuilt still remains to be seen, 

Whether or not Japan’s fascination with 

fellow newcomer Carls John de Tomas. This but there is little doubt that UFC’s brand 

month he takes on the Philippines’ Jenel will continue to expand and evolve in the 

Lausa with a home crowd cheering for him coming years. “We are fortunate to have 

as he hopes to maintain his flawless record. been the pioneers in the sport – it was UFC 

Inoue is understandably excited to be who established all the rules, established 

fighting at the Super Arena, a venue where the weight classes, [and] established the 

so many legendary MMA events have been way it’s judged and scored,” says Chang. 

held. “I've never actually been there before, “Of course we can’t lose the authenticity of 

but I can tell from watching on TV that it's this being MMA, to be able to incorporate 

really big, so of course I'm very nervous,” all the different disciplines and to give no 

he tells Weekender. The UFC has yet to have discipline a particular advantage; those 

an Asian champion, but Inoue isn’t thinking things are going to be cemented, but the 

too much about the mounting pressure on safety of our athletes is paramount so we’re 

his shoulders. “It would be great if I can also always working on ways to make this 

keep winning, and if that results in more competition safer as we go forward.” 

Japanese people watching me and more 

UFC’s global domination doesn’t seem to 

Japanese fans, then of course that would be be under threat, and an enduring appetite 

the best for me ... I’ve decided I’m going to for MMA has shown this is a sport that transcends 

all cultural boundaries and unites 

stick with MMA my whole life; I don't know 

what will happen, but I’m just going to keep billions of avid fans across the world. 

doing my best.” 

Ovince Saint Preux sums it up: “The 

UFC Vice President of Asia Pacific 

opportunity for mixed martial arts and UFC 

Kevin Chang is well aware of the necessity itself is endless; everybody loves to watch it. 

to showcase “homegrown heroes” at their Mixed martial arts is like ‘you put your best 

events in Japan. “The fans in Japan are 

fighter versus my best fighter, and let’s see 

very sophisticated ... we have a fan base who’s going to win.’ You’ve had that stuff 

that knows what good MMA is, and what going on since the gladiator days ... it’s a 

other fake combat sports are; they know the natural human instinct.” 

difference between those things and they 

know who the stars are,” he says. “They 

know that all the best fighters in the world UFC Fight Night Japan: Shogun vs. Saint 

compete in the UFC ... this is as real as it Preux will be held on September 23 at Saitama 

Super Arena. For more information and 

gets. It’s encouraging that we feel like we 

have [Japanese] athletes with the potential to purchase tickets, visit hyperurl.co/UFCfightnightjapan 

to rise to the top here too.” 

UFC Fight Night: Saint Preux v Rogerio De Lima, Getty/Zuffa LLC 

THE FUTURE FACE OF MMA 

IN JAPAN 

Just a few months after Sakuraba was honored 

with an induction into the UFC Hall of 

Fame (in July 2017), the upcoming card features 

a lineup of some of Asia’s top fighters 

alongside a handful of fresh newcomers. 

The chance for a rising star with potential 

to be the future face of MMA in Japan is 

epitomized in 20-year-old flyweight Naoki 

Inoue and his impressive 11-0 MMA record 


COFFEE AND 

PROPHECY 

The curious case of a Tokyo café serving messages 

from God – you may have to queue to get 

in, but you may just leave feeling more at peace 

Words by Michael Lanigan 

Do you want the Prophetic Message?” 

the waitress asks, handing 

me a menu. Coffee costs ¥800 

here at Yogen Cafe, but it comes 

with complimentary biscotti, 

a short Christian prophecy, and no seating 

charge. So in a way, it’s getting value for 

your money through the sides. 

The interior is predominantly red and 

white. There’s an exposed brick wall on 

which a large white cross has been mounted. 

Pour-over coffee pots, percolators and coffee 

table books line the shelves at the entrance. 

On each table is a small book espousing the 

cafe’s doctrine using that same minimal 

color scheme, which in book form shares a 

certain resemblance with the artwork from 

Takashi Miike’s film Love Exposure. 

Stowed away on a foodie street in the 

Minato district of Tokyo, by all accounts was 

it not for the crucifix, Yogen could pass for 

any standard coffee house. Its customer base 

ranges from housewives to business folk, 

most of whom are not here for a social call. 

Likely they are here because it gives a coffee 

break dual functions: caffeine and selfimprovement. 

Many customers come alone. Company 

is provided upon arrival in the form of a 

staff member who joins you as the orders 

are served. The customers sit and listen 

intently to the wait staff who begin muttering 

quickly into various recording devices. 

Prophesizing softly, the diatribes are barely 

audible over the sound of a gentle operatic 

aria playing and the regular grinding 

of beans. 

As the waitress returns with my coffee, 

she takes a seat, clasps my phone in both 

hands and starts chanting. “The Lord said, 

‘This is a new season for you. The old cycle is 

broken. The new cycle is coming. You don’t 

need to struggle any more. Give me your 

burden, your problems.’” 

For three minutes, she talks uninterrupted. 

“I am going to give you new territory to 

take over. You have a great business prospect. 

Don’t think that you are small. You can 

imagine your territory in Japan or overseas. I 

will give you whatever you want. I am going 

to give you the new strategy, you are a pioneer,’ 

said the Lord.” 

This is not coming from any recognizable 

Biblical passages. In a sense, it feels like a 


form of Christian-based fortune-telling akin 

to how, in the West, Buddhism is co-opted and 

cherry picked for its more favorable aspects 

by those who identify as spiritual, but resist 

organized religion. 

The majority of the clientele are “nonbelievers,” 

the waitress says. “They are 

not satisfied spiritually. They are hungry. 

They are thirsty.” Whether the café actually 

succeeds in creating converts though, she 

is uncertain. However, through meticulous 

book-keeping, as all customers are required 

to sign in prior to entry, the owners do pride 

themselves on the fact that most people tend 

to return several times. Assuming conversion 

is the general end-game, then the café is remarkable 

in how logically it has approached 

the task of tackling the dwindling Christian 

population in Japan today, estimated at one 

percent, or half what it was in the 1990s. 

This vision of merging consumerism and 

conversion stems from the mind of Kazuyo 

Yoshida, the café’s main prophet. Churches 

are too closed off for Japanese people to feel 

comfortable approaching is her main argument, 

but “they ought to consider this faith 

since Japanese people have the right emotions 

for Christianity.” They are apparently far too 

enamored by “spiritualism,” an umbrella 

term she uses to refer to Buddhism, Shintoism, 

fortune-telling and crystal healing. 

“Almost all Japanese people go to some kind 

of fortune teller. Some people think the Lord’s 

prophecy is like spiritual stuff, but after they 

receive our prophecy, they gain a different 

ALMOST ALL 

JAPANESE PEOPLE 

GO TO SOME KIND 

OF FORTUNE TELLER 

understanding about what spirituality is.” 

There is a story circulating on a 

website run by Ron Sawka, the leader of 

the Arise 5 church under whom Yoshida 

set up her café, claiming that at one point 

several fortune tellers entered one of the 

coffee houses. So impressed were they by 

the prophecies that they urged their own 

clients to pay a visit. “These people gave 

their lives to spiritualism. Then they came 

here,” she says looking around. “Now they 

are at peace.” Some joined the church. A 

few were hired as staff. “It is not so unusual,” 

she adds with matter-of-fact pride. 

Born in Kyushu and raised a Buddhist, 

Kazuyo was baptized at the age of 

23 in 1987 with her husband. In 1995, she 

was ordained as a minister, and thereafter 

she began working with Ron Sawka. 

“I live in Tochigi, but Ron wanted our 

church to be in Tokyo too.” The café was 

conceived during this period as a result 

of two separate events. The first was a 

seminar that Kazuyo spoke at in Okinawa 

during 2002. “I was giving the prophecy. 

A few people said their friend or family 

member couldn’t come. So they asked if 

we could meet and do it in a Starbucks.” 

Agreeing, the results proved positive. 

“Then, I asked non-Christian people on the 

streets if they want the prophecy and they 

were so happy with it too.” 

Upon returning to Tokyo, “the lease 

on the building where I had my church 

ended. So I needed to leave for a new place.” 

Considering the success of the Starbucks 

sessions, she came up with the idea for the 

café-church. 

Pitching her idea to Sawka, who saw 

nothing in the Bible that denounced coffee, 

they went ahead with it and started on a 

sound footing. This, she credits to her parents. 

“They were in the restaurant business, 

so I knew about coffee.” 

The café in Akasaka was the first to 

open. “On day one, there were three people. 

Then five. Then 50 after some media people 

came.” Once those numbers continued 

growing, a larger space was required and a 

shop in Shinjuku was arranged. 

Sitting in said branch, with in excess 

of 50 customers and not a single table left 

unoccupied, I ask again why a prophetic 

café could have such success in attracting 

non-Christians. “I cannot say I am the light, 

but I breathe the Bible,” Kazuyo replies. 

This, she believes is what impresses the customers 

and opens them up to Christianity. 

At the same time, such a statement could be 

made by any preacher. What she also has on 

her side is good service and a blessed reimagining 

of the age-old policy, “the customer is 

always right.” 

“If the customer isn’t happy, that’s not 

God. That’s me. When people ask ‘How do 

you know my situation?’ I say ‘I don’t know. 

That is from God’ and they say, ‘that is the 

good stuff.’” 

For more information visit yogencafe.com 


IS “IKIGAI” 

THE SECRET TO 

HAPPINESS? 

Words by Bunny Bissoux 

Possibly the next buzzword to come out of Japan, ikigai refers to one’s 

reason for being, and is the subject of two new books being released 

this month. But can it really help to change your life? 

The latest life philosophy hitting the Western 

world is based on the Japanese principle of 

ikigai. Maybe you already know your hygge 

from your feng shui, but this one won’t require 

investing in scented candles, rearranging your 

furniture, meditating, or picking up objects and deciding 

whether they spark joy or not. The Japanese word ikigai 

originates from the kanji for iki meaning “life” and kai 

meaning “worth and value,” roughly translated into English 

as “a purpose for living” or basically “a reason to get 

up in the morning.” Before the cynics shrug off the idea of 

such a grand promise of self-discovery, you should know 

that ikigai is fairly undemanding yet fundamental in its 

teachings – simply figuring out what makes us happy and 

finding purpose and satisfaction in our daily lives. 

This month sees two new books on the subject 

released in English, offering a wealth of information 

and advice for the mildly curious or the serious seeker 

of happiness. Until now, the concept has generally been 

summarized for foreign audiences in the straightforward 

form of a Venn diagram, with four important aspects 

overlapping: What you love, what you’re good at, what 

the world needs, and what you can be paid to do. Through 

looking closely at your passions, occupation, vocation 

and mission, you can apparently discover your central 

purpose: your ikigai. 

The diagram is perhaps a rather simplistic route to 

enlightenment, but deeper insight can be found by under- 


BUY THE BOOKS 

IKIGAI: The Japanese Secret to a Long and 

Happy Life by Hector Garcia and Francesc 

Miralles is published by Hutchinson, and is 

available on Amazon Japan from 

September 7 for ¥1,993. 

THE LITTLE BOOK OF IKIGAI: The Japanese 

Guide to Finding Your Purpose in Life by Ken 

Mogi is published by Quercus, and is available 

on Amazon Japan for ¥1,463. 

standing the significance and practicalities of 

ikigai for the Japanese people themselves. 

Ken Mogi’s The Little Book of Ikigai is an 

excellent place to start. Mogi is a neuroscientist 

and bestselling Japanese writer, having 

published over 30 papers and around 100 

books in Japan, and earning himself a devout 

social media following for his down to earth 

and accessible mix of science, sociology and 

philosophy. Following the devastating 2011 

earthquake, Mogi was the first Japanese 

speaker invited to give an overseas TED talk, 

in which he spoke about Japanese psychology, 

community spirit and the nation’s ability 

to maintain a positive outlook. He has an 

insider perspective coupled with a rational 

scientific background, so when it comes to 

tips for living well, his are certainly trustworthy 

hands to be in. 

The Little Book of Ikigai explores traditional 

values through personal accounts, 

historical facts and storytelling whilst helping 

the reader discover how ikigai can contribute 

to happiness, success and financial gain, 

tackling the cognitive factors involved at the 

same time. Mogi puts great emphasis on the 

presence of ikigai in pastimes and hobbies, 

and his inclusive approach reinforces that 

your life’s purpose doesn’t have to be as ambitious 

as striving for a Nobel Prize. It could 

be found in your career (whether you’re a 

cleaner or a CEO doesn’t matter), or in raising 

a family, but it can also be seen in the passion 

of trainspotters, the affinity of an amateur 

sports team or the fulfilment of practicing 

arts and crafts. Finding and acknowledging 

the pleasure and the satisfaction in small 

details is important to our daily joy. Taking 

the time to complete tasks properly, having 

gratitude for people who help us, recognizing 

modest achievements, supporting others – all 

of these things contribute to the motivation 

and harmony that’s felt in Japan. 

Offering a slightly different perspective, 

the authors of Ikigai – The Japanese 

Secret for a Long and Happy Life spent 

several months in Okinawa, interviewing 

locals and compiling their research. Hector 

Garcia, a long-term resident of Japan, and 

award-winning author Francesc Miralles 

unlock the secrets of the islanders’ incredible 

health – they boast some of the longest 

lifespans on the planet – and happiness. The 

writers narrow down their findings to 10 

conclusive “rules of ikigai,” covering general 

good advice from staying active in old age to 

smiling more and living in the moment, with 

a few more specific suggestions like living 

harmoniously with nature or hara hachi 

bu – only eating until you are 80% full. Their 

recipe for happiness must be good cooking: 

the Spanish and Dutch editions have already 

made it to their respective bestseller lists. 

It seems the outside world’s fascination 

with Japan’s ancient and traditional ways continues 

to captivate, perhaps aided by a global 

obsession with a search for personal longevity. 

And now that the publishing world is shining 

a light on this unique aspect of Japanese 

culture, this single word may well become the 

umbrella term for all Japanese-inspired advice 

relating to living a long and fulfilling life. 

For most people born in Japan, however, 

the notion of instructional books or 

diagrams is quite an unnecessary approach 

to ikigai. Ayano, a web designer in Tokyo 

explains: “I think we don’t talk about ‘what 

is our ikigai’ that much. I keep that inside of 

myself ... of course not all Japanese people 

live their life this way, but if we find some 

ikigai, then we can overcome some of the 

difficulties and challenges in our life.” She 

continues: “We are raised to think that we 

can do even difficult tasks because of ikigai, 

and ikigai in turn makes us happy when we 

do things.” 

Naoki, an IT technician, suggests it’s not 

so much something Japanese people look for 

as something that’s already there, but adds, 

“To be honest, it’s more common to hear the 

word used like the punchline in a joke. For 

example: a tired businessman finally gets 

to the bar late at night, drinks his first sip of 

beer and says ‘this is my ikigai!’ ... Actually 

maybe that’s not really a joke...” 

Regardless of how seriously you want to 

take it, there is undoubtedly some benefit to 

stopping and taking a look at our lives. You 

don’t need to make drastic changes; just take 

a minute to consider and be mindful of what 

you already have. There is certainly a lot of 

inspiration that might encourage us to deal 

with some of our own issues of selfishness, 

fickleness and daily dissatisfaction. For 

those on board with ikigai, the secret to happiness 

lies not in dramatic adjustments or 

momentous achievements, but in acknowledging 

the small pleasures of daily life, and 

better appreciating our surroundings. For 

the Japanese it seems the mere existence of 

the word brings a measure of happiness – so 

perhaps that’s a good place to start. 


OSAKA 

ON TWO 

WHEELS 

By James Wong 

The best way to explore Japan’s third 

largest city: by bicycle 

As autumn kicks in and temperatures 

start to cool down, conditions get 

better for venturing out of Tokyo 

and exploring other parts of Japan’s 

beautiful diversity. With over 2.6 

million inhabitants, Osaka is the third largest 

city in the country and a long-time rival of Tokyo 

for good reason, as it is filled with an abundance 

of sights, sounds and tastes to uncover. 

One of the city’s top tourist attractions is Cycle 

Osaka, a cycle tour operator launched in 2013 

that has rapidly gained popularity and has been 

recognized as TripAdvisor’s number one outdoor 

activity in Osaka. Founder Sam Crofts tells 

us why visitors all over the world are flocking to 

enjoy his beloved city on two wheels. 

SCRATCHING BELOW 

THE SURFACE 

Beyond famous attractions such as Osaka 

Castle and the Dotonbori shopping area, Osaka 

struggles to capture certain visitors who often 

complain about its lack of visual uniqueness. 

However, they’re failing to see the whole 

historical and cultural picture. “Osaka is a favorite 

among Japan connoisseurs – the people 

who take the time to look beyond the surface 

and therefore fall madly in love with the place 

and its hidden wonders. It has an atmosphere 

quite unlike anywhere else I know, and it’s on 

our tours that our passion is echoed and people 

delve a little deeper,” Sam explains. 

THE TIME IS FALL 

Autumn is the best time to fall in love with Osaka. 

The need to hop from one air-conditioned 

room to another is replaced by the freedom to 

enjoy life outdoors, sweat-free. Sam explains 

how Osakans breathe a collective sigh of relief 

and set about really enjoying one of the best 

times of the year in the city. 

“So much happens in fall. First, there’s the 

Kishiwada Danjiri festival, where intoxicated 

teams compete with each other, pulling huge 

portable shrines through the neighborhood 

streets – you really have to see it to believe it! 

As the season progresses, moon viewing parties 

and harvest festivals are common before 

the leaves turn and the locals shift their attention 

to the changing colors,” says Sam. “When 

foliage viewing becomes the main event, Osaka 


is mercifully free from the legions 

of tourists descending upon more 

popular spots in Kyoto and Tokyo.” 

From the shocking yellow gingko 

trees of Midosuji Avenue to the rusty 

oranges of Osaka Castle Park and 

the deep red maple leaves of Minoh 

Park, the Osaka area is filled with 

color and can be enjoyed (as with 

most things in Osaka) at a slightly 

more relaxed pace, and with a distinctly 

local vibe. 

Fall treats in Osaka come in the shape of 

deep fried maple leaves, or momiji tempura. 

Sam recommends getting them from Minoh, 

also home to Osaka’s most famous craft beer 

brewery. “The short walk from the station 

up towards the forest is lined with hawkers 

selling the seasonal snack, which goes perfectly 

with a local brew after a hike up to the 

waterfall.” 

BICYCLE DISCOVERIES 

Prior to forming Cycle Osaka, many of Sam’s 

own city discoveries were made while out 

cycling. “I’ve stumbled across all my favorite 

eateries on bike, and made some amazing 

finds like Nintendo’s original 1889 headquarters! 

One night, from talking to a tourist 

in a bar about cycle tours, we realized they 

didn’t exist in Osaka and I ended up creating 

my own.” But why should tourists choose to 

YOU GET TO SEE 

REAL LIFE GOING 

ON IN BETWEEN 

THE MAJOR 

LANDMARKS 

cycle over taking the train? Sam points 

out that it’s all about the details: “With 

cycling, you get to see real life going on 

in between the major landmarks, from 

school kids practicing sports and old 

ladies grocery shopping to business people 

rushing between meetings. Catching 

them while riding by gives you a really 

unique flavor for the personality and 

character of the city you would otherwise 

miss if you just went by train.” 

A PASSION FOR OSAKA 

Despite Cycle Osaka’s booming popularity, 

Sam keeps the business to a close-knit 

team of five. “The vibe is not a traditional 

guide/tourist relationship but more a 

group of friends enjoying a day out, some 

good food and each other’s company. 

There’s a good balance of amazing food, 

must-see sites and our own personal 

favorites or secret spots along the way.” 

Photos and pedaling aside, expect the 

fun factor to feature heavily. “You’ll meet 

all kinds of people on the tours: we get 

groups of friends, couples, solo travelers 

and families. Everyone is keen to explore 

and just have a great time. Some people 

have actually made long-lasting friendships 

on our tours and that really is the 

spirit of our adventure together.” 

Cycle Osaka offers full and half day 

city tours and food tours. Visit 

www.cycleosaka.com for more details. 

SAM’S TOP FOUR 

CYCLING SPOTS 

IN OSAKA 

TSURUHASHI 

STREET 

MARKET 

“This is where 

old meets new 

and Korea 

meets Japan. 

The market is on the edge of one of 

Japan’s biggest Korean neighborhoods 

and is alive with amazing food, fun people 

and an atmosphere unlike any other 

in the city.” 

UTSUBO 

PARK 

“Small but perfectly 

formed, 

this is where 

young couples 

and families 

spend their summer afternoons, frolicking 

in the fountains, drinking cold beers 

on the lawn and taking selfies in the 

rose garden.” 

TENMA 

“A labyrinth of 

bars, izakayas 

and restaurants 

– the streets 

around Tenma 

Station make 

for a great evening of bar hopping. Postwork 

crowds from the business district 

mix with local residents, with many 

places spilling onto the streets, making 

it all a great spectacle.” 

MINOH 

FOREST 

“Completely not 

what you think 

of when you 

imagine Osaka. 

Minoh is only 

about 20 minutes out of town but is a 

full-on forest complete with temples, 

ancient trees and a huge waterfall. A 

walk from the station to the end of the 

path and back takes a couple of hours 

but is a great way to spend a morning in 

the fresh air to de-city yourself.” 

GETTING TO OSAKA 

Tokyo (Tokyo and Shinagawa stations) and 

Osaka (Shin-Osaka Station) are connected 

by the JR Tokaido Shinkansen (english. 

jr-central.co.jp), the easiest and most convenient 

way to travel to and from Osaka. 

Most domestic flights depart from Haneda 

Airport to Osaka's Itami Airport (ITM). 

Overnight buses are the cheapest way to 

go, and can be booked via Willer Express 

(willerexpress.com/en). 


GACKT 

THE MUSICIAN AND ACTOR ON HIS NEW FILM, 

WHICH IS SET FOR RELEASE THIS MONTH; 

WHY PEOPLE ARE SO DISCONNECTED THESE 

DAYS; AND WHY HE REFUSES TO PLACE 

HIMSELF IN A BOX 

Words by Matthew Hernon 

ove or loathe him, 

there's no denying 

Gackt has a real presence 

when he walks 

into a room. A huge 

name in the entertainment industry 

who has had more consecutive top 

10 hits than any solo male artist in 

Japanese history, he strolls in for our 

interview in Okinawa with a swagger, 

then demands quiet from his management 

team, before sitting down to 

field questions about his latest film 

Karanukan. 

It's his first starring role since 

Moon Child (a movie Gackt also wrote) 

back in 2003. He has focused more on 

his music since then, yet doesn't see 

this as some kind of comeback. 

"I never quit acting," he tells us. 

"I've been in a number of films and 

dramas in recent years, just not as 

the lead. I've had offers, but because 

of music commitments I had to turn 

them down. Filming for Karanukan 

was right after I finished a tour so it 

was timed to perfection." 

Directed by Yasuhiro Hamano, 

it is a mysterious and spiritual story 

set on the idyllic island of Yaeyama in 

Okinawa. Gackt plays an internationally 

acclaimed photographer named 

Hikaru Ooyama who has moved away 

from Tokyo to be closer to nature 

and find something more meaningful 

in life. On the island, he becomes 

enchanted by a young girl named 

Maumi (Suzuka Kimura). While taking 

her photograph, he is struck down by 

a beam of light and she disappears. As 

Hikaru searches the island for her, his 

infatuation grows stronger. 

"I wouldn't say I’m similar to my 

character, but I can understand his 

way of thinking," Gackt tells us. "He 

has succeeded in his profession, yet 

become tired of his surroundings. 

Like him I also don't like big cities, 

though I wouldn't go as far as to 

suddenly move out to the country. 

I'm quite a calm and settled person, 

whereas he is lost and restless. He

Gackt in a scene from Karanukan, (c)2017 "Karanukan" Production Committee 

LOOK AROUND TOKYO 

AND YOU WILL SEE 

PEOPLE WHO AREN'T 

SATISFIED AND 

BASICALLY DON'T FEEL 

ANYTHING 

left the capital to reconnect with something 

essential.” 

"Look around Tokyo and you will see people 

who aren't satisfied and basically don't 

feel anything," he continues. "It's a sickness, 

not only in Japan, but around the world. As 

technology advances we become more disconnected 

from each other. The information 

flows from one person to another, yet there is 

no real communication. There's an emptiness 

in people's hearts and that is why some 

city dwellers choose to move to places like 

Iriomote [one of the main islands of Yaeyama 

used in the film]." 

Gackt has been all over Okinawa, yet this 

was his first time to visit that particular area 

and says he was "blown away by its beauty." 

Born and raised in Japan's southernmost 

prefecture, he is a man who's clearly very 

proud of his heritage. As well as good timing, 

the opportunity to work near his hometown 

was one of the main reasons he accepted the 

role in Karanukan. 

"It has always been one of my ambitions 

to do something like this in Okinawa and give 

something back to the community. I think a 

lot of people from the island feel the same," 

he says. "It's a special and spiritual place. In 

a country like Japan where, on the whole, 

people tend to be 

apathetic towards 

religion, Okinawans 

are quite unique. 

Some, like my family, 

choose to venerate 

ancestors, while 

others believe there 

are gods all around 

us, in the ocean, 

trees, mountains and 

so on. Having a relationship 

with these 

gods is very natural. 

It's a bit like being 

grateful for what we 

have. This kind of 

veneration has no 

detailed theory or 

clearly defined rituals. 

It is simply about 

a love of nature." 

Different from 

the stereotypical 

Japanese celebrity, 

Gackt comes across 

as a deep-thinking 

individual who's 

prepared to share his views on a wide range 

of topics and isn't afraid to rock the boat. The 

blog he posted in 2015 about experiencing 

racial discrimination at a restaurant in Paris 

received widespread press attention, as did 

his criticism of the government regarding its 

lack of support for the entertainment industry 

in Japan. 

The latter is an issue that still concerns 

him. Gackt appeared in the 2011 Hollywood 

film Bunraku alongside the likes of Josh 

Hartnett, Demi Moore and Woody Harrelson, 

which had a budget of $25 million. It wasn't 

huge by American standards, but it was 

astronomical compared to most Japanese 

flicks, including Karanukan. The 44-year-old 

entertainer doesn't expect movies here to be 

competing with those kind of numbers, but 

does believe help should be given from above 

to try and close the gap. 

"In movies abroad, especially in Hollywood, 

the production and budget is large 

compared to anything made in Japan," Gackt 

says. "Here, the schedule is tight in terms of 

filming days and things are generally more 

difficult. That doesn't mean I don't like working 

on Japanese films. It's great collaborating 

with talented people who are making the best 

of what is a difficult situation.” 

"The problem is when you look at the 

movie industry here as a whole. I get the 

impression that the profits are low and it’s 

getting worse. I find that very worrying. I 

think the Japanese government should be 

doing more to support entertainment industries, 

not only when it comes to movies, but 

also music as well. 

Given the choice, Gackt would prefer to 

work on a production outside of Japan rather 

than anything domestic, though he admits 

not too many offers have been forthcoming. 

When he does receive them his busy schedule 

usually makes it impossible to accept. He 

tours extensively, and from the outside 

looking in, seems to prioritize his music 

above everything else. So finally, does he see 

himself as more of a singer than an actor? 

"I do not categorize myself as either," 

Gackt says. "There is no need to place oneself 

in a box or make career choices based on that 

distinction. When I'm on stage or in a film I 

am trying to convey my thoughts and feelings 

to the audience. So, in short, I wouldn't say I 

was an actor or singer; I'm an expressionist." 

Karanukan is on in Tokyo this month. 

WHAT’S IT LIKE TO 

WORK WITH GACKT? 

Suzuka Kimura, who plays Gackt's love 

interest Maumi in Karanukan, admits 

it was a pretty daunting experience 

turning up for the first day of shooting. A 

new face in the industry, she had previously 

never appeared in a movie, drama 

or even short film before. The fact that 

she would be working alongside a bigname 

star like Gackt naturally added to 

the nerves. 

"I was looking for modeling work 

and hadn't had much, then I was told 

about this audition that was being held 

at the Okinawa International Movie Festival," 

Kimura tells us. "I thought why not 

give it a go. There were around 700 girls, 

and I didn't really feel anything would 

come of it, so it was a huge surprise 

when I got the call.” 

“Doing the audition in front of all 

those people was pretty terrifying, but I 

think I was shaking even more when we 

started filming. Meeting Gackt for the 

first time was kind of surreal. Having 

seen him on television quite a bit, I had 

this impression that he would be scary. 

He wasn’t at all, though, and was really 

helpful throughout. In fact, all the cast 

and crew were. It was a very happy set.” 

So, what did Gackt make of Kimura’s 

performance? “If Karanukan had been 

a classic film with the use of classical 

Japanese, it could have been harder for 

her as it is her very first role,” he says. 

“However, in this film she played a girl 

from Okinawa and when she spoke her 

intonation was different. It worked well 

in that context. She is only a beginner, 

but I believe she can mature and grow 

to become an important actress.” 

(c) OIMF 2017

LIFE IN 

TRANSIT 

Instead of highlighting jam-packed rush hours and 

haggard commuters, photographer Charles Levie 

focuses his lens on the subtle moments on Tokyo’s 

trains that reveal the inner world of his subjects 

Words by Alec Jordan. Photographs by Charles Levie 

The celebrated Scottish 

merchant Thomas Blake 

Glover was responsible 

for setting the wheels of 

Japan’s first locomotive 

in motion, back in 1868 on a short 

test track near the city of Nagasaki. 

Four years later, a train line began 

running the 53-minute trip between 

Tokyo and Yokohama. 

Trains would become a crucial 

part of Japanese life within a matter 

of decades, with rail systems making 

their way to Kyushu by 1889 and as 

far north as Aomori by 1891. All of 

this work was done in the spirit of 

modernizing Japan – a process that 

began with the country’s opening 

to the West in the 1850s. Cars would 

become popular in Japan during the 

1960s, but by that time the importance 

of trains – as a means of getting 

from city to city and within the city – 

had already been cemented. In many 

ways, rails set the rhythm of how 

people work, shop, and play in this 

country. 

Given the many hours that Japanese 

people spend on trains every 

day, it’s only natural that a certain 

kind of train etiquette would develop. 

Of course, there’s the matter of loose 

rules – no talking on your cell phone, 

generally no eating – but within 

those constraints, there are countless 

instants when people reveal elements 


of their personalities: an older man taking a wistful look out of 

the train window on a November afternoon, or a young woman 

oblivious to the world and caught up during a dramatic moment 

in her book. 

It’s moments like these that Charles Levie manages to capture. 

A mathematics teacher at Zama American High School, and 

the president of the Camp Zama Photography Club, the Baltimore 

native has taken Tokyo area train riders as one of his primary 

photographic subjects. 

As far as he’s concerned, Japan simply wouldn’t run without 

its trains: “The life blood of Japan is its trains. Japan could exist 

without cars, and even the absence of planes could be tolerated 

for a while, but if the trains stopped for a day, the country would 

go into cardiac arrest. The circulatory system of this country is 

THE CIRCULATORY SYSTEM OF THIS 

COUNTRY IS THE NETWORK OF TRAIN 

LINES THAT CONNECT THE PEOPLE TO 

ALL ASPECTS OF THEIR LIVES 

the network of train lines that connect the 

people to all aspects of their lives.” 

Levie believes that Japan is generally a 

friendly country when it comes to taking peoples’ 

photographs, but he does his best to stay 

unobtrusive when shooting subjects on the 

train. Like the riders themselves, he’s established 

a few rules for himself when he’s working 

on his projects: “My first rule is that the 

train must have a certain level of occupancy … 

If [the train] is too crowded, there will not be 

a clear line of sight to the subject. If the train 

is too empty, you and your camera become too 

obvious. Secondly it is always good to travel 

with friends. When I enter a train car with 

friends, I usually sit opposite them, not beside 

them. If I see something interesting to photograph, 

I begin taking photos of my friends, 

which people notice and dismiss as acceptable. 

While I am ‘photographing’ my friend, I set 

my zoom and focusing dot to where I need 

them, and this lets me quickly change angles 


and inconspicuously take a few shots of the true 

person of interest in the car.” 

Levie has been shooting since he was in 

high school, but he didn’t immediately have 

these techniques at hand when he first started 

shooting on trains, which meant that he got a 

lot of one particular kind of picture: “When I 

initially began this portfolio, my collection consisted 

mainly of people on their phones. These 

are the low hanging fruit of train photography. 

It took me a while to develop the tools needed to 

capture the more interesting aspects of the life 

of the Japanese on their trains.” 

YOU NEVER KNOW 

WHEN THAT PERFECT 

SCENE WILL PRESENT 

ITSELF IN A TRAIN 

Once in a while, every street 

photographer is going to be 

caught in the act of taking someone’s 

picture, and Levie has as 

well, but he thinks that a friendly, 

open approach is best. “I believe 

being a foreigner gives you more 

freedom, if you are polite. You 

are expected to be a little more 

outgoing, and as long as you are 

respectful, you can photograph 

almost anything ... Many times 

I show people their photos after 

I’ve taken them, and I want them 

to take joy in their new photo. 

Hopefully they see themselves in 

a way that pleases them.” 

As Levie explains, the celebrated 

French street photographer 

Henri Cartier-Bresson is one 

of his heroes. Cartier-Bresson’s 

philosophy is based on capturing 

a "decisive moment" with a camera, 

a moment of time that will 

never happen again, and it’s an 

idea that he has taken to heart. 

So his most emphatic recommendation 

to all aspiring photographers 

is to always be prepared, 

because you never know when 

you might come across an instant 

that's ripe for the capturing when 

you’re away from home: “Always 

have your camera with you. The 

worst feeling in the world for a 

photographer is to see something 

magnificent to photograph and 

realize your camera is on your 

desk at home. You never know 

when that perfect scene will present 

itself in a train, so make sure 

your camera is by your side.” 

Many people might associate the trains around Tokyo with 

crowds, grueling rush hour commutes, and people in a hurry – and 

many photographers gravitate towards these images – but Levie’s 

project helps us see the beauty of life on the trains: “Japan has 

beautiful buildings, fantastic shrines and temples, and of course the 

iconic Fuji-san. For me, however, the true splendor of this country is 

the people and their culture. The place where this is most exemplified 

is on the trains.” 


Félicien Rops [designer], Albert Bertrand [engraver], Pornocrates, 1896, colored engraving on paper, Musée Félicien Rops, Namur, Belgium 

FOLLOW US 

Looking for a roundup of art exhibitions, a digest of what's going on around town, 

and a chance to spend time with Tokyo's glitterati? We won't lead you astray... 

TOKYO TOKYO WEEKENDER WEEKENDER | | SEPTEMBER | DECEMBER | MARCH 2017 2016 | | 37

From the workshop of Hieronymus Bosch “Tondal’s Vision” 1490-1500, oil on wood © Fundación Lázaro Galdiano 

ART 

FANTASTIC ART IN BELGIUM 

One of the reasons the otherworldly art that has come out of what is now known as Belgium since the 15th century is so engrossing – 

think of the surreal visions of Hieronymus Bosch and the Brueghels – is that it is grounded in realistic, pictorial detail, a tradition that 

goes back to the Middle Ages. Taking the work of Northern Renaissance artists as a starting point, this exhibit covers 500 years of art 

history, making its way to the iconic images of René Magritte and even more recent exponents of the “Belgian bizarre.” 

The Bunkamura Museum of Art Until September 24 www.bunkamura.co.jp/english/museum 

THE ART WORLD 

OUR PICK OF THE CITY’S BEST EXHIBITIONS 

Compiled by Alec Jordan 

©BOWIE TV No. 1 1981 by JOHN DOVE and MOLLY WHITE, Screenprint 

SENSIBILITY AND WONDER: 

JOHN DOVE & MOLLY WHITE 

“The T-shirt belongs to everyone – 

part of a universal language – more 

personal than a pop poster, more 

poignant than a song.” These are the 

words of artist John Dove and textile 

designer Molly White, and they ought 

to know a thing or two about the garment 

– they were some of first people 

to silk screen T-shirts, back in 1968. 

The husband-and-wife team’s edgy 

imagery has influenced designers like 

Vivienne Westwood and found favor 

from such rock icons of the 70s as 

Mick Jagger, Iggy Pop, and Sid Vicious. 

This exhibit features an array of their 

screen prints, collages, and sculptures. 

Diesel Art Gallery Until November 9 

www.diesel.co.jp/art/en 


Tulipa ‘Bisard Adelaar’ (Tulip, Liliaceae) Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew 

UEMURA SHŌEN AND QUINTESSENTIAL BIJINGA, 

PAINTINGS OF BEAUTIFUL WOMEN 

About her own work, she said, “my earnest hope is that all my works are like 

fragrant jewels, always with a sense of fresh purity, never with even an iota of 

the vulgar.” Her real name was Uemura Tsune, but this nihonga (traditional Japanese 

painting) artist worked under the pseudonym Shōen, which was granted 

to her by a teacher out of respect for her remarkable talent. Her subject of 

choice was mostly bijin (beautiful women), and this exhibition features many 

of Uemura’s creations, ukiyo-e prints, and modern nihonga works that are 

dedicated to both changing styles and eternal beauty. 

Yamatane Museum of Art Until October 22 www.yamatane-museum.jp/english 

THE GOLDEN AGE OF BOTANICAL ART 

– FLOWERS FROM THE COLLECTIONS OF 

THE ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS, KEW 

Before the development of photography, one of the 

only ways to document botanical specimens was 

by sketching or painting them, and the works that 

grew out of this tradition are not just scientifically 

precise, they’re also aesthetically captivating. This 

collection of pieces from the renowned Royal Botanic 

Gardens, Kew, is paired with botanical samples from 

the University of Tokyo. The exhibition is the first in 

the Intermediatheque’s Natural History Series, which 

aims to depict both the beauty and the richness of the 

scientific world. Intermediatheque September 16– 

December 3 www.intermediatheque.jp/en 

Uemura Shōen, Tedious Hours, Color on Silk, Shōwa Period, 1941, Yamatane Museum of Art 


1 

3 

2 

4 

7 

8 

5 6 

AGENDA: THE WEEKENDER ROUNDUP OF WHAT’S HAPPENING IN SEPTEMBER 

1 

SEP 8-24 

2 

SEP 16-30 

3 

SEP 6-19 

4 

SEP 17 

FINDING NEVERLAND 

This hit Broadway musical tells 

the incredible tale of how Peter 

became Pan. The story follows 

struggling playwright J.M. Barrie 

as his life is changed by a chance 

meeting. 

Where: Theatre Orb 

How much: ¥9,000-¥15,000 

More info: tokyoweekender.com 

MANGEKYO 

Produced by percussion performance 

art group Drum Tao, this sensory 

experience filled with dance, taiko 

drums, singing and more, is on for a 

limited time. 

Where: Club Ex 

How much: ¥6,500-¥9,000 

More info: mangekyo-tokyo.com 

KIMONO TANGO 

Recycle brand Kimono Tango 

transforms vintage silk kimono 

and obi into luxurious interior 

items. Make the most of this rare 

opportunity to find a unique item 

for your home. 

Where: 2F Shinjuku Takashimaya 

How much: Free 


THE PIRATES OF TOKYO BAY 

Regular monthly bilingual improv 

comedy night in Ebisu. Each show 

is completely original, unplanned, 

unpredictable and guaranteed fun! 

Where: What the Dickens 

How much: ¥2,000 (incl. one drink) 

More info: piratesoftokyobay.com 

SEP 1-10 

AQUATIC YOKAI TUNNEL 

A tunnel with nine kinds of ghostlike 

jellyfish parading endlessly 

inside a cold dark room is made 

even spookier with the addition of 

walls decorated with Edo period 

graphics, designed by Shigeru 

Mizuki. 

Where: Sumida Aquarium 

How much: ¥2,050 


6 SEP 18 

RAKUGO IN ENGLISH 

Experience rakugo (Japanese 

comedic storytelling) in English, 

courtesy of Shinoharu Tatekawa. 

The performance will be followed 

by an early dinner featuring a variety 

of Japanese seasonal delicacies. 

Where: Park Hyatt Tokyo 

How much: ¥7,500 


5 7 

SEP 15-30 

THE BEAUTY OF 

AKARU SABI 

Contemporary ceramic artist 

Seimei Tsuji’s distinctive approach 

and use of Shigaraki clay was so 

unique it was given its own name... 

Where: MOMAT Crafts Gallery 

How much: ¥400-¥600 


8 SEP 16-18 

TAHITI FESTA 

A celebration of Tahitian culture 

brings a slice of South Pacific 

paradise to the city with stage 

performances and traditional 

foods. 

Where: Venus Fort 

How much: Free 



"Flower of water" Toso(type of wood composition), 

pastel H 62 × W 25 × D 28 cm, 2017 

Mami Itagaki / Between Real and Unreal 

Saturday 2nd September - Sunday 24th September, 2017 

Opening Hours: 12:00 - 19:00 | Closed: Mondays and Tuesdays 

Opening Reception: Friday September 1st from 18:00 onwards 

「Penguins」Acrylic on canvas 72.7×116.7 cm, 2017 

Hikaru Myoen / Wet Penguin 

Saturday 30th September* - Sunday 8th October, 2017 

Opening Hours: 12:00 - 19:00 

Closed: The gallery will be open every day throughout the exhibition 

Opening Reception: Friday September 29th from 18:00 onwards 

* The gallery will be open until 22:00 on September 30th (Saturday) for Roppongi Art Night 

Aoyama Cemetary 

Nogisaka Station 

Hokkaien 

To Shibuya Otora 

Hiroo Station 

Gaien West St. 

Gonpachi Roppongi Dori 

Nishi-Azabu Intersection 

Roppongi Hills 

Mori Art Museum 

The National 

Art Center, Tokyo 

National Graduate 

Institute for Policy Studies 

Roppongi Station 

Gaien East St. 

NANATASU 

GALLERY 

〒106-0031 Tokyo, Minato-ku, Nishi-Azabu 

2-12-4 Ogura building 3F 

Te l : 03-6419-7229 

Web: www.na n a t a s u . j p 


Society 

TOKYO’S LONGEST RUNNING SOCIAL COLUMN WITH BILL HERSEY 

Judging by the heat in August and predictions from our 

friends in the weather business, much of September will 

be hot and humid in Tokyo as well. I watched Al Gore’s 

documentary on CNN the other day – with all the climate 

change already happening, there are some drastic changes 

on the way for people and animals here on Mother Earth. Pulling 

out of the Paris climate accord was one of Trump’s early mistakes. I 

really wish he would have done some research on this or maybe just 

have consulted a few experts on the subject such as Gore, or even 

Leonardo DiCaprio! Knock on wood – hopefully the autumn weather 

patterns in Tokyo won’t change all that much. Autumn’s usually a 

lovely season in Japan. Let’s hope it stays that way. 

Speaking of 

change, it’s sometimes 

hard to 

accept how fast 

Tokyo is evolving. 

So many of my 

old hangouts have 

been or are being 

torn down and 

generally replaced 

by big new buildings. 

The designs 

and quality of 

much of the new 

architecture do 

seem to be improving 

though. I tend 

to move around in 

Tokyo a lot and am 

always surprised 

when I drop by a 

shop or restaurant 

I once liked, and 

the original business 

there is gone, 

as if it never even 

The late great French femme fatale, Jeanne Moreau with Bill 

existed. By the at the Tokyo International Film Festival, held in Kyoto, 1994 

time the Olympics 

happen in 2020, 

Tokyo may look like Blade Runner. 

Many years ago, I opened a boutique called Le Bazaar in an old 

2.5-story wooden building on Aoyama Dori. My business partners 

were the very fashionable model Emile Yamano, who imports Italian 

fashion, and my brother Chris who modeled and did concerts all 

over Japan. I have lots of great memories every time I drive by the 

big Peacock Supermarket on Aoyama Dori, which is where the shop 

used to be. 

I don’t drink, and frankly don’t spend much time in Roppongi any 

more. But as many of you know, I ran a club there for 30 years and – 

thanks to support from the film companies, fashion designers, talent 

agents and many of you – was able to make it one of Tokyo’s most famous 

nightlife venues. It was a favorite of film celebs, top musicians, 

models, and even royalty just about every night. 

After many years of what seemed like an endless stretch of allnight 

parties, I decided I’d had enough and more or less got out of that 

business. I still work with Tsukasa Shiga on the annual F-1 parties 

and with visitors from Europe, Asia and the US for parties, but not all 

that much. More on The New Lex and a rundown of all the new and 

hottest clubs later. 

LOOKING BACK 

For the first 10 years of the Tokyo International Film Festival I had the 

privilege and fun of working with Bill Ireton’s mother, Kiko, and sister, 

Asia, on publishing the Festival’s daily newspaper. Sadly we lost 

Kiko, a smart, fun, and super chic friend, earlier this year. Her sister 

Asia is still working in the film business as head of Tohokushinsha’s 

History Channel in Tokyo and Los Angeles. My main work for the 

paper was interviewing 

the actors, 

actresses, and directors 

who were 

the special guests 

here for the festival. 

These included 

Timothy Dalton, 

for his James Bond 

film, Chinese actress 

Vivian Wu, 

actor John Love, 

Italian director 

Bernardo Bertolucci 

for The Last 

Emperor, Charlie 

Sheen, his brother 

Emilio Estevez, 

Dolph Lundgren, 

Brenda Vacarro, 

Yves Montand, 

and many more. 

One interview that 

really stands out 

in my mind was 

with the French 

superstar Jeanne 

Moreau, the much 

beloved femme fatale of French New Wave films. 

I met this multitalented lady in Kyoto where many of the TIFF 

events were held in 1994. I’m happy to say that we really connected, 

and in addition to my interview, I was able to have a sukiyaki dinner 

with her and take her shopping for souvenirs for her family and 

friends in France. I could go on and on about this exceptional woman: 

she had so many interesting stories to tell about her career, was well 

versed in just about everything, and was one of the most intelligent 

people I’ve ever met. I was sad to read about her passing in July, at the 

age of 89. 

HAPPY BIRTHDAY STEVEN HAYNES! 

Did get back to one of Roppongi’s best clubs, Esprit, recently for the 

birthday party of a dear friend, the multitalented Steven Haynes. 

The glittering club was packed with at least 100 people, including 

plenty of showbiz folks. 


DEWI SUKARNO'S 

DINNER PARTY 

1. Rana Ismayilzade 2. Jamila Bilal 

(Qatar), the multitalented Judy Ongg, 

Karina Seegers Sukarno, Kiran, Dewi 

3. TV personality Ahn Mika 4. Azerbaijan 

Amb. Gursel Ismayilzade, Qatar Amb. 

Yousef Bilal, his wife Jamila, Dewi and 

Karina 5. Professional dancer, Rei 

Natsumi 6. Akira Nakahashi, Yuriko 

Higuchi 

1 

2 

3 

4 

7 

5 

9 

6 

8 

11 

10 

12 

13 

STEVEN HAYNES' 

BIRTHDAY PARTY 

7. Brazilian samba dancer 

Sandra 8. James Horie and Miss 

World Priyanka 9. Singer Gabriel, 

Paula, actor/model Hide, Keiki, 

Steven Haynes, Rie 

10. Mayumi, Raymond, 

Nagomi 11. Pole dancing 

twins Chiharu and Chikada 

12. Miss Supranational 2016 

Risa Nagashima 

13. Shunsuke, his daughter, 

and a family friend 

TOKYO WEEKENDER | | SEPTEMBER SEPTEMEBR 2017 | 43

AMBASSADOR 

STARACE’S RECEPTION 

1. Lilo Maruyama, Bill Hersey, Italian 

Amb. Giorgio Starace, Cantatore 

Domenico, Mary Aide, Helge Maruyama 

2. Mary, Lilo, Israeli Amb. Ruth Kahanoff, 

and Mr Aide 3. Croatian Amb. Drazen 

Hrastic, Grand Master of the Crown 

Prince’s household and Mrs. Nobutake 

Odano 4. Fashion guru Emile Yamano, 

Daichuji Temple Chief priest Koetsu 

Shimoyama, Nina Yamano, her mother 

Sharon 5. Ferrari executives: Max 

Musacci, Japan/Korea managing director 

Reno De Paoli, marketing director Donato 

Donatelli 6. Etro Japan/Asia Pacific’s 

Fabio Strada, Amadeus Pres. Prof. Midori 

Nishiura, Segafredo Pres. Brian Mori 

7. Fabio Strada, Fiat’s Taziana 

Alamprese, Lilo, and Helge 8. Renowned 

caterer/restaurant owner Giorgio Matera 

and friends Ms. Omori and Ms. Hirakawa 

1 2 

3 

6 

4 

5 

8 9 

7 

10 

11 

NORMAN TOLMAN 

CELEBRATES 

9. Norman Tolman with seven of the 

48 artists of The Tolman Collection: 

Okada Marie, Goto Hideki, Saito Noriko, 

Norman, Gojo Miki, Nakazawa Shin’ichi, 

Takahashi Hiromitsu, Imamura Yoshio 

10. Kiyo Fukuda (Tolman Collection 

photographer), Norman, Allison Tolman, 

Shin Mochizuki (Tolman Collection 

International Project Manager) 11. Bill 

Swinton, Norman, Stephen Bloom, CEO 

of Portland Japanese Garden 

44 | SEPTEMBER 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER 


The DJ, the food and the ambiance were primo and the three-hour 

event featured twin sister pole dancers, a gorgeous Brazilian samba 

dancer, and several singers. It was a wild night that brought back 

great memories of the Lexington Queen in its heyday. The fashion, the 

lighting, the models, and Steve’s super personality all ended up making 

it the excellent celebration it was. Congratulations Steve – you’re 

the best. 

DEWI’S DINNER FOR HER DAUGHTER AND FAMILY 

Dewi Sukarno no sooner got back from one of her many trips (this 

time Indonesia – and at the time of writing, she had just returned 

from 10 days in South Africa!) than she planned and hosted a dinner 

for her daughter Karina, her son-in-law Fritz Seegers, and her grandson 

Karin. Her daughter lives in London, and she and her family were 

only here for a few days, so the party ended up being on the same 

night as the big and very crowded Japan-Arab Day annual reception 

at the Imperial. 

I was lucky as my good friends the Azerbaijani Ambassador Gursel, 

his wife Rana, and their son Nursel were also invited to both 

events. As always, they kindly gave me a ride from the Imperial to 

Dewi’s event at the world-renowned Tokyo Shiba Tofuya Ukai restaurant 

behind Tokyo Tower, a restaurant with exceptional tofu cuisine, 

gardens, lanterns, bridges, and remarkable Japanese ambiance. It really 

is legendary. 

The guests there that evening were an interesting mix of business 

tycoons, bankers, showbiz celebrities – notably the TV actress Ahn 

Mika and dancer Rei Natsumi – and Dewi and Karina’s families. I have 

known Karina for many years, and was happy to see her so content 

with her husband and son. The dinner was excellent and featured 

course after course of mostly tofu dishes. You should have at least one 

meal there while you’re in Japan. 

I got a pleasant surprise when I ran into long-time friend, the multitalented 

Judy Ongg, who was at another party at the same venue. I 

held a lot of events for Judy when the Lexington was still the place 

to go. 

NORMAN TOLMAN CELEBRATES 

Since Norman Tolman and his entourage have been doing a lot of 

traveling, I have sort of lost track of him and his creative endeavors. 

He recently took a round-the-world trip, arranging exhibits for Toko 

Shinoda in Amsterdam, Almaty, Shanghai, and Shenzhen. If you think 

Toko is the only artist The Tolman Collection handles you’d be wrong! 

The printmaker Wako Shuji has been their exclusive artist since 1984. 

On September 23 they will release a book about him (when does Norman 

find time to write?). Things Are Seldom What They Seem is about 

lithographs that Wako has made for The Tolman Collection, which are 

not available anywhere else. 

Unfortunately, I missed good friend Norman’s 81st birthday party, 

which he hosted at his apartment. Really sorry about that, as I heard 

he had some 70 guests so I’m sure it was great fun. 

STARACES’ GLITTERING ITALIAN NATIONAL DAY 

Our new Italian Ambassador Giorgio Starace had only been here a 

short time before he had to host Italy’s national day party. This is 

always one of the biggest diplomatic events of the year, and he, with 

the help of his staff, his catering service (Giorgio Matera), and many 

top Italian businessmen, made it all very special. The Italian embassy 

with its legendary garden (which is associated with the story of the 

47 ronin) is not the biggest, but it’s certainly one of the most beautiful 

and is big enough to hold the 1,300 guests that came that evening and 

still not be too crowded. 

The glitz and glamour of the evening started at the main entrance 

to the residence, where there was a display of Italian cars that included 

a Ferrari, a Lamborghini, a Fiat and a Vespa, which were tastefully 

displayed and beautifully illuminated. The opening ceremony 

featured a welcome speech by the ambassador and congratulations 

by several Japanese government officials. These could be seen on a 

big monitor in the garden. 

The buffet started out with a long table of wonderful Italian appetizers 

in the main dining area. Believe me, they all tasted as good 

as they looked. White tents were scattered around the garden where 

Tokyo’s top Italian chefs served a colorful and tasteful variety of pizza, 

pasta, and many other Italian specialties. The hosting couple also 

provided tables and comfortable chairs where guests could relax and 

chat while enjoying the marvelous food. For dessert there was a big 

selection of Italian gelatos and Segafredo Zanetti’s man-in-Japan Brian 

Mori and his staff served their world famous espresso in the main 

reception room. 

Our congratulations to Ambassador and Signora Starace, as well 

as the many others who helped them make it a truly special celebration. 

The new ambassador is really cool – he reminds me of my 

Italian godfather, the late great fashion designer Brioni. 

"GERMAN REQUIEM" PERFORMANCE NEXT MONTH 

Robert Ryker, music director of the popular Tokyo Sinfonia, has a 

new project in the works. On October 31, he will conduct a chorus, 

orchestra and soloists – more than 250 artists – in a performance of 

Johannes Brahms's German Requiem. It is the composer’s most massive 

work, but because it requires so much talent and preparation, it 

is seldom performed in Japan. 

A group of business people and religious leaders have joined 

Maestro Ryker in organizing the event to be held at the Tokyo Metropolitan 

Theater in Ikebukuro to mark the 500th anniversary of the 

Reformation that sparked a political, intellectual, religious and cultural 

revolution that continues today. 

This performance will be one of many events around the world 

to commemorate the date. Following the performance, there will be 

a cultural reception to celebrate how music brings together people 

from around the world. I expect to be there, ears and heart open, and 

camera in hand. 

For information and tickets, go to www.r500.co 

Hideki and Linda Yamada 

at Hiroo Segafredo 

Nishantha and Tomoko Perera with their son Taj at 

the Sri Lankan Festival, Yoyogi Park 

Chicken Man restaurant owner, Dike Echee, Tunade 

Latin music agency’s Dabid Garcia 


Our new online store featuring a curated selection of designer 

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*short term stays available at Tokyo Station and in Ariake.

Tokyo Weekender - September 2017

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