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APRIL <strong>2016</strong><br />

THE SECRETS<br />

TO ASSISTING<br />

A PRO GOES BACK<br />

TO SCHOOL<br />

WHERE TO LAUNCH<br />

YOUR CAREER<br />

WHAT<br />

MAKES<br />

YOU LOOK?<br />

Catherine Opie <strong>on</strong> portraits, places, culture, and politics—<br />

and why you should never stop asking questi<strong>on</strong>s


The moment your whole career comes into focus.<br />

This is the moment we work for.<br />

12%<br />

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professi<strong>on</strong>als choose ZEISS lenses for its quality, reliability and excellent value. A ZEISS lens is an investment<br />

that will be with you throughout your professi<strong>on</strong>al career and build a relati<strong>on</strong>ship that will last throughout<br />

your lifetime. We should know, we have been manufacturing lenses for 125 years. If you are a full-time student<br />

enrolled in an accredited photography program in the United States you qualify for the ZEISS Educati<strong>on</strong> Program.<br />

For further informati<strong>on</strong> visit: www.zeiss.com/photo/educati<strong>on</strong>.


CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: JOE RIIS; HOLLY ANDRES; RUSH JAGOE; MARVIN ORELLANA; CATHERINE OPIE/REGEN PROJECTS, LA AND LEHMANN MAUPIN, NY & HONG KONG<br />

FEATURES<br />

15 Your Next Move<br />

After graduati<strong>on</strong>, scores of young photographers will descend up<strong>on</strong><br />

New York and L.A. to seek their fortunes. Want to stand out from<br />

the crowd? D<strong>on</strong>’t join it. We talked to four shooters who owe their<br />

success to their surprising locati<strong>on</strong>s.<br />

By Sara Cravatts<br />

20 Ready, Set, Assist<br />

To become a working pro, start by working for the pros. Here’s<br />

our guide to getting your first assisting job—including everything you<br />

need to do to get hired back again.<br />

By Russell Hart<br />

24 Ask More<br />

Famed photographer and UCLA professor Catherine Opie talks to us<br />

about what it means to make—and look at—portraits. By Meg Ryan<br />

DEPARTMENTS<br />

4 Editor’s Letter When casting about for<br />

career ideas, d<strong>on</strong>’t forget weddings.<br />

34 Shoot This Get <strong>on</strong> the roof for an<br />

amazing new perspective.<br />

FILTER<br />

6 Two Years Out Lindsey Best had<br />

already g<strong>on</strong>e pro when she started school;<br />

here’s how her educati<strong>on</strong> pushed her farther.<br />

8 Books & Shows What to see: From a<br />

girl in the wild to boxers in Britain.<br />

12 Photo Realism Use social media to<br />

promote your work—the right way.<br />

TOOLS<br />

30 First Look S<strong>on</strong>y debuts its own series<br />

of super-high-quality lenses.<br />

31 Roundup The best of the latest<br />

cameras, compared.<br />

32 What It Takes Freeze the acti<strong>on</strong><br />

using a simple hot-shoe flash.<br />

24<br />

15<br />

20<br />

APRIL <strong>2016</strong><br />

POPPHOTO.COM/CAMPUS POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS 3


EDITOR’S LETTER<br />

On the<br />

Cover<br />

MASTER OF<br />

THE PORTRAIT<br />

“Nick,” 2003, from<br />

Catherine Opie’s<br />

Surfers series. Read<br />

more about this<br />

artist and<br />

professor’s<br />

approach <strong>on</strong><br />

page 24.<br />

An Overlooked<br />

Traditi<strong>on</strong>?<br />

Whether you’re graduating this<br />

spring or simply looking ahead,<br />

you may be w<strong>on</strong>dering how—or<br />

whether—you can build a career in photography.<br />

In this issue we directly address some of the practical questi<strong>on</strong>s with feature<br />

stories <strong>on</strong> assisting and which places, besides the photo meccas of New York<br />

and Los Angeles, to get your start.<br />

But there’s <strong>on</strong>e path that few aspiring artists, photojournalists, fashi<strong>on</strong><br />

shooters, or commercial photographers take seriously: wedding photography.<br />

You’d be surprised at how many successful pros in other genres of<br />

photography h<strong>on</strong>ed their skills by shooting weddings. Not just their<br />

photographic skills, but also their business practices, time management, and<br />

approach to clients. D<strong>on</strong>e right, wedding photography can help you pay off<br />

those student loans and earn a living.<br />

But even if you never plan to make wedding photography your career, or<br />

even a weekend job, chances are that so<strong>on</strong>er or later some<strong>on</strong>e will ask you to<br />

shoot their nuptials. It’s tougher than all those smartph<strong>on</strong>e-wielding guests<br />

and DSLR-slinging uncles of the bride might lead you to believe.<br />

We recently launched a channel <strong>on</strong> our website, PopPhoto.com/wedding,<br />

aimed at informing and inspiring photographers who are just getting into<br />

the bridal biz. Some of our own editors, including Web Editor Stan Horaczek,<br />

shoot several weddings each year as a side gig. “Have a c<strong>on</strong>tract,” he advises.<br />

“Also, d<strong>on</strong>’t try to learn new techniques right before a wedding; your focus<br />

has to be <strong>on</strong> learning the flow of the wedding. That’s why assisting is a good<br />

idea. The pacing is the hard part—taking the pictures is the easy part.”<br />

The rewards, he adds, can be more than financial. You get to capture<br />

people enjoying what is often the happiest day of their lives. And that is a<br />

pretty cool, and rare, opportunity.<br />

FROM TOP: CATHERINE OPIE/REGEN PROJECTS, LA AND LEHMANN MAUPIN, NY & HONG KONG; PETER HURLEY<br />

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF MIRIAM LEUCHTER<br />

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Sarah Hughes<br />

FEATURES EDITOR Debbie Grossman<br />

SENIOR EDITOR Peter Kol<strong>on</strong>ia<br />

SENIOR TECHNOLOGY EDITOR Philip Ryan<br />

TECHNOLOGY MANAGER Julia Silber<br />

ASSISTANT TECHNOLOGY EDITOR Adam Ryder<br />

ASSISTANT EDITOR Sara Cravatts<br />

ART DIRECTOR Jas<strong>on</strong> Beckstead<br />

PHOTO EDITOR Fi<strong>on</strong>a Gardner<br />

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Jack Crager, Russell Hart,<br />

Meg Ryan, Allegra Wilde<br />

ONLINE EDITOR Stan Horaczek<br />

ASSISTANT ONLINE EDITOR Jeanette D. Moses<br />

BONNIER’S TECHNOLOGY GROUP<br />

VICE PRESIDENT, PUBLISHING DIRECTOR<br />

GREGORY D. GATTO<br />

FINANCIAL DIRECTOR Tara Bisciello<br />

GROUP NATIONAL ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Jeff Timm<br />

EASTERN SALES DIRECTOR Christine Sendelsky<br />

ACCOUNT MANAGER Chip Parham<br />

MIDWEST MANAGER Doug Leipprandt<br />

AD ASSISTANT Lindsay Kuhlmann<br />

DETROIT SALES DIRECTOR Jeff Roberge<br />

DIRECTOR OF CUSTOM SOLUTIONS Noreen Myers<br />

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, INTEGRATED MARKETING Brenda Oliveri<br />

SALES DEVELOPMENT MANAGER Elspeth Lodge<br />

DIGITAL SALES MANAGER Lee Verdecchia<br />

DIGITAL CAMPAIGN DIRECTOR Amanda Mays<br />

DIGITAL CAMPAIGN COORDINATOR Justin Ziccardi<br />

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, BRAND INTEGRATION Beth Hetrick<br />

CREATIVE SERVICES DIRECTOR Ingrid M. Reslmaier<br />

MARKETING DESIGN DIRECTORS J<strong>on</strong>athan Berger, Gabe Ramirez<br />

DIGITAL DESIGN MANAGER Steve Gianaca<br />

BRAND INTEGRATION DIRECTOR Michelle Cast<br />

ASSISTANT BRAND INTEGRATION MANAGER Vanessa Vazquez<br />

CONSUMER MARKETING DIRECTOR Andrew Schulman<br />

RETAIL SINGLE COPY SALES:<br />

PROCIRC RETAIL SOLUTIONS GROUP T<strong>on</strong>y DiBisceglie<br />

HUMAN RESOURCES DIRECTOR Kim Putman<br />

GROUP PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Michelle Doster<br />

PRODUCTION MANAGER Rick Andrews<br />

CHAIRMAN Tomas Franzén<br />

CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Eric Zinczenko<br />

CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER David Ritchie<br />

CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER Elizabeth Burnham Murphy<br />

CHIEF DIGITAL REVENUE OFFICER Sean Holzman<br />

VICE PRESIDENT, INTEGRATED SALES John Graney<br />

VICE PRESIDENT, CONSUMER MARKETING John Reese<br />

VICE PRESIDENT, DIGITAL OPERATIONS David Butler<br />

VICE PRESIDENT, PUBLIC RELATIONS Perri Dorset<br />

GENERAL COUNSEL Jeremy Thomps<strong>on</strong><br />

COPYRIGHT © <strong>2016</strong> POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY<br />

Editorial c<strong>on</strong>tributi<strong>on</strong>s should be sent to <str<strong>on</strong>g>Popular</str<strong>on</strong>g> <str<strong>on</strong>g>Photography</str<strong>on</strong>g> <strong>on</strong> <strong>Campus</strong>, 2 Park Avenue,<br />

9th Floor, New York, NY 10016. Submissi<strong>on</strong>s must be accompanied by return post age and<br />

will be handled with reas<strong>on</strong>able care; however, publisher assumes no resp<strong>on</strong> sibility for the<br />

safety of unsolicited original artwork, photographs, slides, or manuscripts. For reprints,<br />

email reprints@b<strong>on</strong>niercorp.com. <str<strong>on</strong>g>Popular</str<strong>on</strong>g> <str<strong>on</strong>g>Photography</str<strong>on</strong>g> <strong>on</strong> <strong>Campus</strong>, <strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong>, Vol. 1,<br />

No. 4. Entire c<strong>on</strong>tents © <strong>2016</strong> B<strong>on</strong>nier Corporati<strong>on</strong>.<br />

4 POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS APRIL <strong>2016</strong>


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Electr<strong>on</strong>ic Viewfi nder, lens and accessories sold separately.


FILTER<br />

Books<br />

& Shows P.8<br />

Photo Realism P.12<br />

TWO YEARS OUT<br />

SOUND<br />

AND<br />

VISION<br />

Art Center grad<br />

Lindsey Best explores<br />

the emoti<strong>on</strong>s behind<br />

the scenes<br />

LINDSEY BEST fell in love with photography<br />

when she got a Polaroid<br />

as a young teenager, and she so<strong>on</strong><br />

combined it with another passi<strong>on</strong>:<br />

music. “I would go to shows and<br />

bring my film point-and-shoot<br />

camera with me,” Best recalls. “As I<br />

got older and got better equipment,<br />

I had to start figuring out how I<br />

could get my photo gear into these<br />

venues. That’s when I started trying<br />

to reach out to bands and navigate<br />

how that world worked.”<br />

By the time she graduated from<br />

California’s Agoura Hills High<br />

School, she had started shooting<br />

c<strong>on</strong>certs with official credentials,<br />

often <strong>on</strong> assignment for local<br />

publicati<strong>on</strong>s. Though she knew she<br />

wanted to be a photographer, she<br />

enrolled at San Diego City College<br />

to study physical and biological<br />

anthropology. “I wasn’t yet ready to<br />

put my academic studies behind<br />

me, so I took two years of classes<br />

studying n<strong>on</strong>-photography fields<br />

while taking photo classes <strong>on</strong> the<br />

side,” she says. “I wanted to have a<br />

well rounded bank of knowledge to<br />

draw <strong>on</strong> for my art.”<br />

Meanwhile, Best c<strong>on</strong>tinued her<br />

photo practice. After leaving City<br />

College, she says, “I spent three<br />

years trying to establish myself as<br />

a music photographer, developing<br />

my portfolio and networking as<br />

much as I could.”<br />

Gradually she put together a<br />

client list including Rolling St<strong>on</strong>e,<br />

Crawdaddy!, Pitchfork Media, Urban<br />

Outfitters, Blue Man Group, Premier<br />

Guitar, Pedal Punk, LA Weekly,<br />

and Live Nati<strong>on</strong>. “I’ve primarily<br />

marketed my music work in the<br />

editorial world, and also directly to<br />

artists, labels, management, and<br />

show venues,” she says. “One of the<br />

most important things has been<br />

understanding the range of potential<br />

places that my work could live.<br />

This is something I’m c<strong>on</strong>stantly<br />

expanding up<strong>on</strong>.”<br />

Meanwhile Best had a l<strong>on</strong>g-term<br />

dream of studying at Art Center<br />

College of Design—“It seemed that<br />

all the best photo students went <strong>on</strong><br />

to go there,” she recalls—and she<br />

enrolled at the Pasadena campus<br />

as a photo major in 2011. “It was<br />

SUBWAY<br />

STRUMMER<br />

Best captured this<br />

image of a<br />

musician playing<br />

<strong>on</strong> a subway<br />

platform using her<br />

Apple iPh<strong>on</strong>e 5s in<br />

Chicago, in 2014.<br />

6 POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS APRIL <strong>2016</strong>


LINDSEY BEST (2)<br />

important for me to go into Art<br />

Center knowing what I wanted to<br />

get out of it, in order to maximize<br />

my time there.”<br />

Having graduated in 2014, she<br />

credits her BFA program with burnishing<br />

the skill of follow-through.<br />

“Art Center gave me the mentality<br />

of c<strong>on</strong>stantly working <strong>on</strong> something<br />

and seeing it through from<br />

the c<strong>on</strong>cepti<strong>on</strong> stage to executi<strong>on</strong>,”<br />

she notes. “So many people<br />

have ideas that they think about<br />

for years and then never end up<br />

executing. The ability to go from<br />

<strong>on</strong>e stage to the next is something<br />

I’m grateful to my instructors for<br />

helping instill. I am always making<br />

work; and when I’m not shooting, I<br />

am thinking about ideas I’d like to<br />

make into photographs.”<br />

During college, Best expanded<br />

her stylistic range, adding formal<br />

portraiture, landscapes, and stilllife<br />

work to her portfolio. “All my<br />

work stems from the same place<br />

c<strong>on</strong>ceptually,” she says. “I have<br />

always been more interested in<br />

showing what an experience felt<br />

like rather than just showing what<br />

something looked like. I think every<br />

image is made up of the base layer<br />

of data and literal informati<strong>on</strong>—<br />

but I always want my images to go<br />

bey<strong>on</strong>d that layer, and show the<br />

emoti<strong>on</strong>al experience of what a<br />

moment feels like.”<br />

In c<strong>on</strong>cert venues—especially<br />

shooting major artists such as the<br />

Rolling St<strong>on</strong>es, Radiohead, or U2—<br />

Best is often relegated to the “three<br />

s<strong>on</strong>gs in the pit” rules for photographers.<br />

Yet her work for editorial<br />

clients and music labels has led to<br />

NO DOUBT<br />

At a 2009 No<br />

Doubt c<strong>on</strong>cert in<br />

Irvine, CA, Best<br />

captured Gwen<br />

Stefani and T<strong>on</strong>y<br />

Kanal with a Nik<strong>on</strong><br />

D200. The shot ran<br />

in L.A. Record.<br />

close l<strong>on</strong>g-term collaborati<strong>on</strong>s with<br />

artists such as C<strong>on</strong>or Oberst and<br />

Jas<strong>on</strong> Isbell. “Every time I photograph<br />

some<strong>on</strong>e I feel like I discover<br />

facets of who the pers<strong>on</strong> is that<br />

I want to illuminate. C<strong>on</strong>or and<br />

Jas<strong>on</strong> are two of my favorite musicians<br />

with whom I have had that<br />

kind of experience. I’ve been able to<br />

explore and tell a deeper story.”<br />

Such impulses led her to take up<br />

the camera in the first place. “<str<strong>on</strong>g>Photography</str<strong>on</strong>g><br />

lets you take an experience<br />

and express it in such a way<br />

that it is felt as a human story, and<br />

not just specific to <strong>on</strong>e individual<br />

pers<strong>on</strong> or situati<strong>on</strong>,” she says. “As<br />

human beings we all tap into the<br />

same emoti<strong>on</strong>s, and as an artist I<br />

love the challenge of translating<br />

those emoti<strong>on</strong>s into visuals.”<br />

—Jack Crager<br />

POPPHOTO.COM/CAMPUS POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS 7


FILTER BOOKS & SHOWS<br />

TECH-AGE WASTELAND<br />

Nick Brandt finds envir<strong>on</strong>mental peril in the land of his grand animal portraits<br />

INHERIT THE DUST By Nick Brandt<br />

Edwynn Houk Editi<strong>on</strong>s, $65<br />

Nick Brandt’s latest project is both gorgeous and<br />

disturbing: He applies his stately animal portraiture<br />

to a potent caveat about the Earth’s fate. Brandt<br />

returns to East Africa, where he photographed<br />

his artful trilogy of wildlife imagery: On This Earth<br />

(2005), A Shadow Falls (2009), and Across the Ravaged<br />

Land (2013). This time around, he places life-sized<br />

panels of great and endangered species—elephants,<br />

rhinos, zebras, li<strong>on</strong>s, apes—in locales where the<br />

animals <strong>on</strong>ce roamed, now littered with industrial<br />

detritus from factories, dumpsites, quarries, highway<br />

underpasses, and other manmade intrusi<strong>on</strong>s. The<br />

message is immediate and visceral: Our natural<br />

world is disappearing at an alarming rate.<br />

Always a formal portraitist, Brandt has carefully<br />

composed each panorama so that the natural<br />

backdrop in his life-size print looks like it could be<br />

the same landscape as its now-littered envir<strong>on</strong>s.<br />

Meanwhile workers labor, scavengers forage,<br />

squatters camp, and townspeople stroll through the<br />

wasteland, oblivious to the animals’ ghostlike images.<br />

“The result is an eloquent and complex ‘J’accuse,’”<br />

writes Vicki Goldberg in her blurb, “for the people are<br />

as victimized by ‘development’ as the animals are.”<br />

Brandt has deftly turned his art into a call for acti<strong>on</strong>.<br />

JESSE BURKE: WILD AND PRECIOUS Rhode Island School<br />

of Design, Providence, RI, through Sept. 25 risdmuseum.org<br />

As something of an encore to Burke’s 2015 m<strong>on</strong>ograph of the same<br />

title, RISD is staging an exhibiti<strong>on</strong> of the project. Over a five-year period<br />

Burke traveled across America with his daughter, Clover, exploring the<br />

w<strong>on</strong>ders of nature and the experience of the open road. The resulting<br />

images reflect up<strong>on</strong> childhood misadventures (cuts, bruises, bloody<br />

noses) as well as poignant moments (portraits <strong>on</strong> the beach and in the<br />

woods). It’s a tender mix of images exploring childhood, parenthood,<br />

compani<strong>on</strong>ship, and a sweet life <strong>on</strong> the move.<br />

FROM TOP: NICK BRANDT, COURTESY OF EDWYNN HOUK GALLERY. NEW YORK; JESSE BURKE<br />

8 POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS APRIL <strong>2016</strong>


POPPHOTO.COM/CAMPUS POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS 9


FILTER BOOKS & SHOWS<br />

MODERN KIDS By J<strong>on</strong>a<br />

Frank Kerher Verlag, $40<br />

In her third m<strong>on</strong>ograph,<br />

photographer and filmmaker<br />

J<strong>on</strong>a Frank c<strong>on</strong>tinues to explore<br />

adolescence and coming-ofage<br />

with a look at the boxing<br />

community in Ellesmere Port, a<br />

suburb of Liverpool, England. Her<br />

portraits of boxers in the gym<br />

evoke the smell of sweat-stained<br />

leather, while her atmospheric<br />

images of British suburbia and<br />

youthful couples lend universality<br />

to a specific place. “J<strong>on</strong>a gets to<br />

this crazy level of emoti<strong>on</strong> and<br />

intimacy that most photographers<br />

hope for with the people in fr<strong>on</strong>t of<br />

their camera,” writes Bruce Weber<br />

in his intro. “Her photographs and<br />

film are a poem about memory—<br />

lost and regained.”<br />

GOWANUS WATERS<br />

By Steven Hirsch<br />

powerHouse, $45<br />

Through Hirsch’s lens, the polluted<br />

waters of Brooklyn’s Gowanus<br />

Canal are iridescent abstracti<strong>on</strong>s,<br />

a painter’s palette of colorscapes<br />

in which oil, water, chemicals,<br />

and foliage blend in psychedelic<br />

patterns. It would be lovely if not<br />

for the underlying decay. While<br />

the surrounding dumps, oil depots,<br />

and bus yards remain, the canal’s<br />

Superfund designati<strong>on</strong> may<br />

someday render these chemical<br />

combos obsolete—a good thing.<br />

PREVIOUS PAGE<br />

Nick Brandt’s<br />

“Factory with<br />

Rhino, 2014”;<br />

Jesse Burke’s<br />

“Flesh and Blood.”<br />

THIS PAGE:<br />

(clockwise from<br />

top) J<strong>on</strong>a Frank’s<br />

“Mas<strong>on</strong>, Training,<br />

2012”; Carrie Mae<br />

Weems’ “Untitled<br />

(Man in Mirror)”;<br />

Steven Hirsch’s<br />

“Psamathe, 2014.”<br />

CARRIE MAE WEEMS:<br />

CONSIDERED Savannah<br />

College of Art and Design,<br />

Savannah, GA, through<br />

June 12 scad.edu<br />

A three-decade retrospective<br />

of Weems’ photography, this<br />

exhibiti<strong>on</strong> covers a wide range<br />

of topics and styles, all united<br />

by the artist’s blend of historical<br />

references, social activism, and<br />

wit. In projects ranging from her<br />

starkly composed Kitchen Table<br />

series to the m<strong>on</strong>tages of From<br />

Here I Saw What Happened and I<br />

Cried, Weems explores complex<br />

emoti<strong>on</strong>al and socioec<strong>on</strong>omic<br />

themes, delving far below the<br />

surface through photography.<br />

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: JONA FRANK; CARRIE MAE WEEMS, COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND JACK SHAINMAN GALLERY, NEW YORK; STEVEN HIRSCH<br />

10 POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS APRIL <strong>2016</strong>


FILTER PHOTO REALISM<br />

#ENGAGE<br />

Simplify your social media presentati<strong>on</strong><br />

LET’S IMAGINE for a minute that<br />

the <strong>on</strong>line audience you present<br />

your photos to, and aim to impress,<br />

would actually spend time with<br />

your pictures—lingering over them,<br />

taking in their story and yours—<br />

before pushing the Like butt<strong>on</strong> or<br />

commenting. Sounds like a dream,<br />

right?<br />

Unfortunately, most of the time,<br />

it’s a complete fantasy that your<br />

viewers will do anything like that.<br />

Typically they spend a few sec<strong>on</strong>ds<br />

(if you’re lucky) <strong>on</strong> your individual<br />

photographs, including<br />

recent Facebook and Instagram<br />

posts, as well as the fr<strong>on</strong>t page of<br />

your website or Tumblr. (See the<br />

February issue for specific tips<br />

about those.) And if people have<br />

to read an explanati<strong>on</strong> of your<br />

images, bey<strong>on</strong>d a title, capti<strong>on</strong>, or<br />

hashtag…well, they just w<strong>on</strong>’t.<br />

But, there are two things you<br />

can do to increase engagement<br />

with your social networks that will<br />

help grab the attenti<strong>on</strong> of your<br />

audience, and even keep their<br />

eyes <strong>on</strong> your work l<strong>on</strong>g enough to<br />

“invest” by commenting <strong>on</strong> and<br />

even sharing your images.<br />

First, c<strong>on</strong>sider the words you<br />

use. Most of the photographers I<br />

know and follow, both emergent<br />

and established, are often uncomfortable<br />

writing about themselves<br />

and their photos. I’ve met with<br />

many of you at portfolio reviews<br />

and school events, and I see a lot of<br />

struggling with an “elevator pitch”<br />

or artist’s statement that sums up<br />

the entirety of your work. (That<br />

goes for current projects and individual<br />

images, too.)<br />

So how about we lose the copy?<br />

It’s better to choose an image that<br />

has intrinsic visual power that<br />

needs no explanati<strong>on</strong> or c<strong>on</strong>text.<br />

One that is just awesome. Especially<br />

<strong>on</strong> your Facebook posts:<br />

Include <strong>on</strong>ly a quick capti<strong>on</strong> or<br />

title, a link to your site, or nothing<br />

at all. Let your audience get<br />

curious and ask questi<strong>on</strong>s, then<br />

you can resp<strong>on</strong>d to them in the<br />

comments. The comments secti<strong>on</strong><br />

is a better place <strong>on</strong> Facebook<br />

to add info, links, and descripti<strong>on</strong><br />

than at the top of the post. L<strong>on</strong>g<br />

explanati<strong>on</strong>s are a waste of time,<br />

will probably go unread, and will<br />

visually step <strong>on</strong> the image that<br />

accompanies them.<br />

I’ve seen overly wordy artist’s<br />

statements <strong>on</strong> Instagram, too.<br />

This time they’re in the comments<br />

secti<strong>on</strong>, but the same<br />

advice applies. A simple hashtag<br />

or capti<strong>on</strong> and a link to see more<br />

work suffices and will help your<br />

audience engage without feeling<br />

the pressure to read—and not<br />

see—your story.<br />

My sec<strong>on</strong>d tip: Mind the grid. In<br />

most social sites, it is possible to<br />

see a mosaic of all of your recent<br />

photos in <strong>on</strong>e place. This is by<br />

default <strong>on</strong> your Instagram profile,<br />

and it happens when you click<br />

through to photos <strong>on</strong> Facebook.<br />

It is important to be c<strong>on</strong>scious<br />

of the order and design of the<br />

way your images appear in those<br />

grids. They are an immediate representati<strong>on</strong><br />

of you as a photographer.<br />

The pictures d<strong>on</strong>’t need<br />

to be uniformly thematic or narrowly<br />

focused <strong>on</strong> a particular subject<br />

or series. But you want the<br />

viewer’s eye to travel over the grid<br />

and absorb an overall tightness of<br />

your aesthetic, color, and compositi<strong>on</strong>.<br />

If you arrange and upload<br />

your photos with some forethought<br />

to the sequence within<br />

that grid, it will, in additi<strong>on</strong>, give<br />

any slideshow view some muchneeded<br />

rhythm.<br />

This may mean not putting<br />

photos that are too similar next<br />

to each other, and alternating<br />

your color scheme and compositi<strong>on</strong>.<br />

Or, you can get more specific<br />

with your grid— perhaps by<br />

always using the same frame/<br />

border, color palette, or compositi<strong>on</strong>al<br />

rules. The point is to make<br />

the first quick read of your profile<br />

page very, very succinct.<br />

It may not be obvious, but paying<br />

attenti<strong>on</strong> to this overview, as<br />

well as to what you write about<br />

each photo, helps your audience<br />

perceive you as a serious photographer<br />

and aids in your ability<br />

to stand out. If you can stand<br />

out, it’s the first step in engaging<br />

with your viewers and instilling<br />

in them an interest in spreading<br />

your message. —Allegra Wilde<br />

PLAN THE GRID<br />

Your Instagram feed<br />

is a miniature<br />

introducti<strong>on</strong> to your<br />

work, so curate it<br />

as such.<br />

MEET THE<br />

AUTHOR<br />

The cofounder and<br />

chief operati<strong>on</strong>s<br />

officer of Eyeist, the<br />

<strong>on</strong>line portfolio review<br />

service, Allegra Wilde<br />

is a visual strategist,<br />

creative director, and<br />

c<strong>on</strong>sultant to artists,<br />

photographers, and artbased<br />

businesses. She<br />

has served as an MFA<br />

mentor at the School<br />

of Visual Arts and as<br />

a visiting instructor at<br />

Art Center College of<br />

Design, FIT, and many<br />

other university photography<br />

programs.<br />

CONTINUE THE<br />

CONVERSATION<br />

facebook.com/<br />

PopPhotoRealism<br />

twitter.com/<br />

PopPhotoRealism<br />

ALLEGRA WILDE (2)<br />

12 POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS APRIL <strong>2016</strong>


CALLING ALL<br />

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student photographers the opportunity<br />

to win prizes and have their work<br />

recognized in the fall issue of PPOC<br />

or <strong>on</strong> PopPhoto.com/campus<br />

DEADLINE<br />

AUGUST 31, <strong>2016</strong><br />

FREE TO ENTER: For the c<strong>on</strong>test rules and prizes, please visit<br />

PopPhoto.com/campus-c<strong>on</strong>test


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POPPHOTO.COM/CAMPUS POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS 15


YOUR<br />

NEXT<br />

MOVE<br />

After graduati<strong>on</strong>, scores<br />

of young photographers<br />

will descend up<strong>on</strong> New<br />

York and L.A. to seek<br />

their fortunes. Want<br />

to stand out from the<br />

crowd? D<strong>on</strong>’t join it. We<br />

talked to four shooters<br />

who owe their success<br />

to their surprising<br />

locati<strong>on</strong>s.<br />

By Sara Cravatts<br />

LIFE OUTSIDE<br />

THE METROPOLIS<br />

Photographers Joe<br />

Riis, Rush Jagoe,<br />

Holly Andres, and<br />

Pao Houa Her,<br />

(clockwise from<br />

top left), are<br />

building successful<br />

careers away from<br />

big cities.<br />

POPPHOTO.COM/CAMPUS POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS 15


Joe Riis<br />

31, Pierre, South Dakota; University of Wyoming ’08<br />

FOR PHOTOGRAPHER Joe Riis,<br />

the decisi<strong>on</strong> to move to western<br />

Wyoming after his college graduati<strong>on</strong><br />

was <strong>on</strong>e born from a passi<strong>on</strong><br />

for wildlife rather than an explicit<br />

career strategy. “The day I graduated<br />

college in May of 2008 is when<br />

I started photographing full-time,”<br />

Riis says. “I moved into my pickup<br />

and photographed the pr<strong>on</strong>ghorn<br />

migrati<strong>on</strong> for two years, which is<br />

how I got the attenti<strong>on</strong> of the editors<br />

I wanted to work for.”<br />

Those editors were from Nati<strong>on</strong>al<br />

Geographic Magazine, where Riis is<br />

now a c<strong>on</strong>tracted, regularly c<strong>on</strong>tributing<br />

freelance photographer.<br />

Choosing to forge a career away<br />

from photo-centric cities like New<br />

York and Los Angeles was easy<br />

for Riis, now based in rural South<br />

Dakota, because he needed to<br />

reside in a locati<strong>on</strong> c<strong>on</strong>ducive to<br />

his nature photography. He moved<br />

with a subject in mind above all<br />

else. Riis points out that photographers<br />

can live wherever they<br />

please, as “nowadays it’s easy to<br />

communicate with editors, and it<br />

all comes down to their trust in<br />

your ability to handle the fieldwork<br />

and come back with the images.”<br />

It is important to live in a locati<strong>on</strong><br />

that is c<strong>on</strong>sistent with the<br />

subjects you want to photograph:<br />

If you want to shoot landscapes,<br />

live somewhere you can easily do<br />

so; if street scenes are your calling,<br />

choose an urban home. Identifying<br />

a subject matter that is not<br />

widely covered, and reporting <strong>on</strong><br />

it in depth with beautiful images<br />

CAMPFIRE<br />

Yellowst<strong>on</strong>e<br />

backcountry, June<br />

2014.<br />

BULL ELK<br />

Also Yellowst<strong>on</strong>e<br />

backcountry,<br />

October 2014.<br />

can be a great way to attract<br />

the attenti<strong>on</strong> of publicati<strong>on</strong>s. In<br />

Riis’s opini<strong>on</strong>, prioritizing your<br />

passi<strong>on</strong> is always the way to go.<br />

“Pick a story that you deeply and<br />

pers<strong>on</strong>ally care about, and photograph<br />

it for a l<strong>on</strong>g time. Make<br />

pictures of that subject that<br />

have never been made, dive in<br />

and become a part of the story.”<br />

Career success, if you market<br />

yourself accordingly, will follow.<br />

JOE RIIS (2)<br />

16 POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS APRIL <strong>2016</strong>


PAO HOUA HER (2)<br />

HMONG VETERAN<br />

A portrait of a<br />

Hm<strong>on</strong>g man taken<br />

in Saint Paul,<br />

Minnesota in 2012<br />

from Her’s Desire<br />

series.<br />

YA AT THE<br />

SWIMMING POOL<br />

Shot in Eagan,<br />

Minnesota, 2011<br />

also from Desire.<br />

Pao Houa Her<br />

33, Lino Lakes, Minnesota;<br />

Minneapolis College of<br />

Art and Design ’09 and<br />

Yale University ’12<br />

“IF YOU HAD asked me a few years<br />

ago if I would ever go to Yale and<br />

live <strong>on</strong> the East Coast, I would have<br />

said no,” recalls Pao Houa Her of<br />

her time spent earning an MFA in<br />

New Haven, CT. After exploring<br />

the area and graduating, she went<br />

home to Minnesota to pursue her<br />

goal of working as a professi<strong>on</strong>al<br />

photographer.<br />

For Her, the decisi<strong>on</strong> to return to<br />

her home state was both practical<br />

and passi<strong>on</strong>ate. She is part of<br />

Minnesota’s tight-knit community<br />

of Hm<strong>on</strong>g, who arrived there over<br />

40 years ago after the Vietnam<br />

War. That culture, and Minnesota<br />

itself, is a frequent subject of her<br />

work. There were also logistics to<br />

c<strong>on</strong>sider: “In New York or L.A. there<br />

is such a high density of photographers<br />

that it can be harder to<br />

get resources. I’m not sure I would<br />

have the same funding that I do<br />

here if I were to live somewhere<br />

else,” she says.<br />

Setting yourself apart from the<br />

competiti<strong>on</strong> is a definite plus,<br />

but moving too far out can pose<br />

another challenge: staying relevant.<br />

Her says that in order to make sure<br />

her work is seen she makes a point<br />

to c<strong>on</strong>nect with the right people.<br />

“You have to take all opportunities<br />

available whether it’s knowing<br />

which critics are coming to your<br />

city or having a c<strong>on</strong>versati<strong>on</strong> with<br />

a curator,” she says. Your physical<br />

locati<strong>on</strong> can serve many purposes<br />

for your career, but first and foremost<br />

it should inspire your work.<br />

“I get all of my ideas from where I<br />

am,” the photographer says.<br />

POPPHOTO.COM/CAMPUS POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS 17


Holly Andres<br />

38, Portland, Oreg<strong>on</strong>;<br />

University of M<strong>on</strong>tana ’02 and<br />

Portland State University ’04<br />

“I FELL IN love with Portland during<br />

graduate school,” says photographer<br />

Holly Andres, “and I’ve found a very<br />

supportive and creative community<br />

of people here.” In additi<strong>on</strong> to the<br />

people, the envir<strong>on</strong>ment itself has<br />

been an inspirati<strong>on</strong>. “If I was a studio<br />

photographer my locati<strong>on</strong> wouldn’t<br />

matter as much,” she says, “but since<br />

I work <strong>on</strong> locati<strong>on</strong>, it’s important to<br />

me to live in a place that offers me<br />

inspirati<strong>on</strong> and access.”<br />

When choosing a place to live, you<br />

must first c<strong>on</strong>sider what you need<br />

to make your pictures. Your envir<strong>on</strong>ment<br />

should support your photography—not<br />

get in the way. And d<strong>on</strong>’t<br />

forget cost. “New York and L.A. are<br />

both very expensive places to work<br />

in terms of locati<strong>on</strong>s and permits,”<br />

explains Andres. When you can keep<br />

DAWN: BELMONT<br />

HOUSE<br />

Andres made the<br />

above image for<br />

her series The<br />

Fallen Fawn. Shot<br />

in Portland,<br />

Oreg<strong>on</strong> in 2014.<br />

MARIEL<br />

HEMINGWAY<br />

Shot for the New<br />

York Times<br />

Magazine in 2013;<br />

Malibu, California.<br />

both your shooting and living costs<br />

down, you can focus more directly<br />

<strong>on</strong> your craft. “Living in Portland<br />

has allowed me to support a more<br />

creative-focused life,” she says.<br />

Andres has also found that keeping<br />

industry eyes <strong>on</strong> her work is not<br />

as challenging as it may have <strong>on</strong>ce<br />

been. “The world is simultaneously<br />

getting smaller as it gets bigger,”<br />

she says. “Social media platforms<br />

like Instagram have c<strong>on</strong>nected<br />

people in the photography industry<br />

in ways that were unimaginable<br />

<strong>on</strong>ly a few years ago.” Why<br />

pay to live in N.Y.C. or L.A. when<br />

staying relevant can be as easy as<br />

an Instagram post?<br />

HOLLY ANDRES (2)<br />

18 POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS APRIL <strong>2016</strong>


RUSH JAGOE (2)<br />

Rush Jagoe<br />

27, New Orleans, Louisiana; Western Kentucky University ’07<br />

WHEN WE asked Rush Jagoe how<br />

he decided where to begin his<br />

professi<strong>on</strong>al career, he resp<strong>on</strong>ded:<br />

“It was pretty whimsical.” His<br />

sp<strong>on</strong>taneous move to New Orleans<br />

in 2009 proved to be fateful, and he<br />

has been living and shooting there<br />

professi<strong>on</strong>ally ever since.<br />

Am<strong>on</strong>g the many perks of his<br />

colorful Louisiana envir<strong>on</strong>ment are<br />

the characters he can meet and<br />

capture everyday. “I have a lot of<br />

friends who moved to New York,<br />

and they were doing interesting<br />

things but they also <strong>on</strong>ly hung<br />

out with other photographers. I<br />

wanted to live in a more diverse<br />

community of people.”<br />

Like the other shooters we spoke<br />

with, Jagoe described his photography<br />

as being heavily influenced by<br />

his society and surroundings. “The<br />

culture and traditi<strong>on</strong>s [in New<br />

Orleans] are very rich,” he explains,<br />

and “the kinds of people who make<br />

Louisiana their home are very<br />

interesting to me. It can be harder<br />

to focus <strong>on</strong> <strong>on</strong>e pers<strong>on</strong>’s story and<br />

legacy in a bigger city.”<br />

One drawback of living outside<br />

WADING<br />

Portrait of hog<br />

hunter John-Henry<br />

Trant taken in<br />

<strong>2016</strong> for Jagoe’s<br />

pers<strong>on</strong>al portfolio.<br />

BIRD ON A<br />

SHOULDER<br />

Quintr<strong>on</strong> at City<br />

Park in New<br />

Orleans. Taken for<br />

Airlift in 2015.<br />

of a major photography market:<br />

You are required to travel for<br />

some jobs. “You have to get used<br />

to dropping whatever you are<br />

doing to go shoot an assignment<br />

in New York,” Jagoe cauti<strong>on</strong>s, but<br />

it is an inc<strong>on</strong>venience he is willing<br />

to live with.<br />

When Jagoe reflects <strong>on</strong> his<br />

decisi<strong>on</strong> to pick up and move his<br />

life to New Orleans, he focuses<br />

most <strong>on</strong> his deep investment in<br />

his adopted home. “Go somewhere<br />

that you think is interesting,<br />

not just somewhere you are<br />

told to go. Take a lot of pictures.<br />

Make work c<strong>on</strong>stantly whether<br />

you are getting paid for it or not.”<br />

POPPHOTO.COM/CAMPUS POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS 19


READY, SET,<br />

ASSIST<br />

Want to be a working pro? Start by<br />

working for the pros. Here’s how to get<br />

your first assisting job—and what you<br />

need to know to do it right.<br />

By Russell Hart<br />

20 POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS APRIL <strong>2016</strong>


GET ON THE JOB<br />

Photographer<br />

Marvin Orellana<br />

captured this<br />

image of a photo<br />

shoot in progress<br />

for the New York<br />

Times.<br />

MARVIN ORELLANA; ISTOCK.COM/MICHAEL_H_REEDHOTMAILCOM<br />

“THERE ARE milli<strong>on</strong>s of people<br />

out there who can make gorgeous<br />

pictures,” says New York-based<br />

Will Styer, a Rochester Institute of<br />

Technology grad who, after several<br />

years of assisting, shoots still lifes<br />

for clients such as Esquire, Armani,<br />

and Ralph Lauren. “But a lot of<br />

what goes into being a professi<strong>on</strong>al<br />

photographer is dealing<br />

with clients, solving problems as a<br />

team, and making sure things go<br />

smoothly <strong>on</strong> the day of the shoot—<br />

skills that have nothing to do with<br />

actual photography.” Want to learn<br />

these skills so you can succeed as a<br />

pro? Start by assisting.<br />

1Sell yourself.<br />

Put together a portfolio<br />

that shows off your creative<br />

and technical prowess. Then<br />

customize it to the photographer<br />

you want to work for; if he or she<br />

relies mainly <strong>on</strong> studio lighting,<br />

for example, include images that<br />

show your ability with lights.<br />

Build a solid website and keep it<br />

updated, so that any<strong>on</strong>e hiring has<br />

a reference. Then go for it. “As l<strong>on</strong>g<br />

as you’re upfr<strong>on</strong>t with a photographer<br />

you want to assist about your<br />

knowledge and experience, it’s<br />

never too so<strong>on</strong>,” says Styer. “You<br />

d<strong>on</strong>’t have to know how equipment<br />

works to carry it. Be h<strong>on</strong>est<br />

about your abilities and realistic in<br />

your expectati<strong>on</strong>s.”<br />

2Decide how you<br />

want to work.<br />

Should you work full-time<br />

for <strong>on</strong>e photographer or freelance<br />

with different photographers who<br />

use assistants as needed? “There<br />

are pros and c<strong>on</strong>s to each,” says<br />

New York advertising and<br />

editorial photographer Jack<br />

Reznicki, who assisted for<br />

five years after getting his<br />

BFA from RIT and now shoots<br />

for big-ticket clients such as Hyatt,<br />

AT&T, and The Wall Street Journal.<br />

“With full-time work, you get to<br />

see the entire producti<strong>on</strong> from<br />

first ph<strong>on</strong>e call to finished product.<br />

As a freelancer you usually see<br />

<strong>on</strong>ly a piece of the process, but you<br />

experience a lot more different<br />

kinds of shooting,” he adds. James<br />

Porto, an influential high-c<strong>on</strong>cept<br />

photographer, thinks you should<br />

do both. “The ideal path would be<br />

to work for a single photographer<br />

who you admire for at least a year,<br />

then to freelance for multiple photographers,”<br />

Porto says. “Freelancing<br />

pays better, too.”<br />

3Pick your<br />

bosses wisely.<br />

Either way, hire yourself<br />

out to photographers you can<br />

learn from. Look at their work,<br />

especially in magazines and other<br />

print media, and when you make<br />

c<strong>on</strong>tact tell them where you’ve<br />

seen it and why you like it. If you<br />

know what kind of work you want<br />

to do, assist photographers who<br />

do it; if you’re still trying to decide,<br />

mix it up. In the process, you may<br />

even find a mentor.<br />

4Choose the best<br />

way to make<br />

c<strong>on</strong>tact.<br />

Email may seem the easiest and<br />

least obnoxious, but it’s also easy<br />

to ignore. “I think ph<strong>on</strong>e calls are<br />

better and more pers<strong>on</strong>al than<br />

email,” says Reznicki. “With the<br />

first call I usually say I can’t talk<br />

then, but I tell them to call me<br />

back at a certain time. What’s<br />

amazing is that <strong>on</strong>ly about 25<br />

percent of people follow through<br />

with that request.” The remaining<br />

75 percent, says Reznicki, “d<strong>on</strong>’t<br />

get through the door,” even if they<br />

call back some other time.<br />

5Be persistent<br />

but polite.<br />

“I’m not going to remember<br />

you from <strong>on</strong>e interacti<strong>on</strong>,” says<br />

T<strong>on</strong>y Gale, an assistant-turnedphotographer<br />

who has taught<br />

assisting workshops co-sp<strong>on</strong>sored<br />

by American Photographic Artists<br />

(APA, of which he’s now president)<br />

and S<strong>on</strong>y, to whose Artisans of<br />

Imagery group he bel<strong>on</strong>gs. “Being<br />

c<strong>on</strong>sistent is important. I would<br />

suggest trying a few different ways<br />

to reach out—postcards, email,<br />

social media. Just d<strong>on</strong>’t do them<br />

all at <strong>on</strong>ce or too frequently.”<br />

6Do whatever<br />

needs to be d<strong>on</strong>e.<br />

Once you start assisting,<br />

know your place. “As an assistant,<br />

your job is to make the shoot as<br />

smooth as possible,” says Gale.<br />

“That might mean setting up<br />

lights, but it could also mean<br />

mopping the bathroom. D<strong>on</strong>’t be<br />

reluctant to get your hands dirty.”<br />

7Be seen and<br />

not heard.<br />

“Unless you’re the first<br />

assistant and know exactly what’s<br />

going <strong>on</strong>, you w<strong>on</strong>’t endear yourself<br />

to the boss by always putting<br />

in your two cents <strong>on</strong> set,” says<br />

Reznicki, who recalls an assistant<br />

who gave unsolicited<br />

advice in fr<strong>on</strong>t<br />

of a client. “He<br />

didn’t realize<br />

that there was<br />

also a political<br />

aspect to the problem,”<br />

the photographer<br />

says. “I never<br />

hired him again.”<br />

POPPHOTO.COM/CAMPUS POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS 21


ISTOCK.COM/MR_MORTON; ISTOCK.COM/BARRAND<br />

8Bring<br />

your own<br />

“kit.”<br />

Pack simple tools and materials<br />

that will reduce your need to ask<br />

for things—a multipurpose pocket<br />

tool, clamps, gaffer’s tape, a roll<br />

of black foil to c<strong>on</strong>trol light, a pad<br />

and pen for keeping notes, Power<br />

Bars so you w<strong>on</strong>’t have to work<br />

<strong>on</strong> an empty stomach. “I used to<br />

bring memory cards, which more<br />

than <strong>on</strong>ce solved what could have<br />

been a huge problem,” says Gale.<br />

9Anticipate the<br />

photographer’s<br />

needs.<br />

D<strong>on</strong>’t make the photographer ask<br />

for everything he or she wants<br />

you to do—go ahead and start to<br />

do it. Be judicious, though. “Some<br />

of my assistants know exactly<br />

what needs to be d<strong>on</strong>e before I<br />

even tell them because they’ve<br />

worked with me so l<strong>on</strong>g,” says<br />

Styer. “But if it’s your first time<br />

assisting a particular photographer,<br />

I’d pay close attenti<strong>on</strong> and<br />

just be ready when you’re asked<br />

to do something.”<br />

10 Ask<br />

questi<strong>on</strong>s.<br />

D<strong>on</strong>’t be afraid to<br />

admit what you d<strong>on</strong>’t know. Your<br />

boss knows you’re there not just<br />

to earn some m<strong>on</strong>ey, but also to<br />

BE A JOINER<br />

Join professi<strong>on</strong>al<br />

photographers’<br />

groups such as<br />

PPA, APA, and<br />

ASMP, and volunteer<br />

to work at<br />

their c<strong>on</strong>venti<strong>on</strong>s.<br />

These groups often<br />

offer discounted<br />

student memberships<br />

and maintain<br />

searchable assistant<br />

databases<br />

that can help you<br />

find work.<br />

learn. Just d<strong>on</strong>’t overdo it—after all,<br />

you took Photo I in school. “Be c<strong>on</strong>fident,<br />

but be teachable,” advises<br />

veteran Minneapolis-based assistant<br />

Tim Olsen, who maintains<br />

APhotoAssistant.com, a website<br />

dedicated to assisting.<br />

11<br />

Be ready.<br />

Sometimes photographers<br />

need assistants<br />

at very short notice—<br />

especially if a member of<br />

their go-to crew can’t take<br />

<strong>on</strong> the assignment. Lastminute<br />

substituti<strong>on</strong>s can<br />

lead to regular work.<br />

12“If you pay attenti<strong>on</strong>,<br />

Have a positive<br />

attitude.<br />

listen, and can focus <strong>on</strong> a task,<br />

that’s what I care most about,”<br />

says Gale. “Knowing more is always<br />

good, but if I’m going to spend<br />

from six hours to several days with<br />

some<strong>on</strong>e, pers<strong>on</strong>ality is important.”<br />

13<br />

D<strong>on</strong>’t use your<br />

smartph<strong>on</strong>e<br />

<strong>on</strong> set.<br />

“It’s very disrespectful, especially<br />

when time is m<strong>on</strong>ey and so much<br />

is <strong>on</strong> the line,” says Jack Reznicki.<br />

“If you have to, do it <strong>on</strong> your lunch<br />

break or go to the bathroom.”<br />

Reznicki tells of a case in which a<br />

photographer was sued by his client<br />

because his assistant uploaded<br />

a behind-the-scenes image of the<br />

shoot to social media.<br />

14assisted a<br />

Follow up.<br />

If you’ve<br />

photographer and all went<br />

well, send a thank-you note<br />

saying you’d like to work<br />

for him or her again and<br />

expressing the hope that<br />

he or she will refer you<br />

to other photographers.<br />

15 Keep<br />

networking.<br />

Even if you end up<br />

working full-time for <strong>on</strong>e photographer,<br />

it’s important to establish<br />

new c<strong>on</strong>necti<strong>on</strong>s. Do this <strong>on</strong><br />

shoots, of course, but attend photo<br />

community events too. And be sure<br />

to make friends with your local<br />

photo equipment rental house.<br />

16<br />

Exploit social<br />

media.<br />

“It’s actually <strong>on</strong>e of<br />

the ways I’ve met a lot of wellknown<br />

photographers,” says<br />

Detroit-based Matthew LaVere,<br />

who is now making the transiti<strong>on</strong><br />

to full-time professi<strong>on</strong>al. “Down the<br />

line, they’ve called me up to see if<br />

I was available to assist. Instagram<br />

and Twitter have really helped me<br />

network.” Facebook offers similar<br />

opportunities, am<strong>on</strong>g them The<br />

Crew Group, an informal gathering<br />

of assistants. (Search for groups/<br />

TheCrewGroup.)<br />

17 “It is absolutely<br />

Start mixing in<br />

your own jobs.<br />

possible to assist and shoot at the<br />

same time,” says Gale. “I know<br />

some people believe you should<br />

make a clean break as so<strong>on</strong> as you<br />

think you’re ready, but I’m not sure<br />

that’s realistic. Gradually shooting<br />

more and assisting less is a<br />

perfectly fine way to do it. And if<br />

you start turning down shooting<br />

jobs because you’re already booked<br />

to assist, you know it’s time to quit<br />

assisting!”<br />

22 POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS APRIL <strong>2016</strong>


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Ask<br />

More<br />

Catherine Opie talks about what it means<br />

to make—and look at—portraits<br />

Photos by Catherine Opie; text by Meg Ryan<br />

24 POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS APRIL <strong>2016</strong>


AN ORDINARY kitchen in a ranchstyle<br />

home, light diffusing through<br />

a window and reflecting off the<br />

mirrors over scuff-marked, aging<br />

wallpaper. A note to self in red<br />

lipstick <strong>on</strong> a mirror. The c<strong>on</strong>tents<br />

of a closet, half a dozen or so items<br />

at a time: dresses, shoes, gowns,<br />

furs. The golden statuettes. Photos<br />

of friends and family <strong>on</strong> practically<br />

every surface. A pile of red AIDS<br />

ribb<strong>on</strong>s. A diam<strong>on</strong>d and emerald<br />

necklace dissolving into the sun.<br />

Zooming in <strong>on</strong> the objects of a<br />

life, from reflecti<strong>on</strong>s of an inimitably<br />

public image to the mundane,<br />

TWO PORTRAITS<br />

“Kate and Laura,”<br />

2012, from Recent<br />

Portraits, at left,<br />

and “Living Room<br />

West View,”<br />

2010–2011, from<br />

700 Nimes Road<br />

Portfolio (Elizabeth<br />

Taylor), above.<br />

Catherine Opie c<strong>on</strong>structed a<br />

portrait of Elizabeth Taylor without<br />

ever meeting the legendary actor<br />

in pers<strong>on</strong>. For the project that ultimately<br />

became 700 Nimes Road, the<br />

photographer was granted access to<br />

Taylor’s Bel-Air home in 2011 after<br />

their mutual accountant made the<br />

POPPHOTO.COM/CAMPUS POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS 25


c<strong>on</strong>necti<strong>on</strong>—and although Opie<br />

never intended to photograph the<br />

star, the project shifted gears <strong>on</strong><br />

March 23, 2011, when Taylor died of<br />

c<strong>on</strong>gestive heart failure. The resulting<br />

series (recently <strong>on</strong> exhibit at<br />

Lehmann Maupin’s Lower East Side<br />

gallery in New York and at the Los<br />

Angeles MOCA Pacific Design Center<br />

through May 8) gave Opie time<br />

to explore <strong>on</strong>e of many questi<strong>on</strong>s<br />

that have motivated her to make<br />

photographs over a celebrated<br />

career: What is a portrait, really?<br />

“It’s trying to extend the definiti<strong>on</strong><br />

of how we begin to define<br />

what a portrait is,” says Opie, the<br />

fine-art photographer whose rigorous<br />

explorati<strong>on</strong>s of portraiture and<br />

landscape have produced some of<br />

the most lauded images of the past<br />

25 years. “Somebody as ic<strong>on</strong>ic as<br />

Elizabeth Taylor—we know exactly<br />

what she looks like. So through the<br />

still lifes, my questi<strong>on</strong> was...does<br />

it give us even more informati<strong>on</strong><br />

about [her] than just having her<br />

sit for me for a portrait?”<br />

If Opie is about anything, she<br />

is about asking questi<strong>on</strong>s. From<br />

American Cities to Freeways to her<br />

most recent portraits, the photographer<br />

has been especially<br />

interested in asking questi<strong>on</strong>s<br />

about American culture and its<br />

politics. Her aim, she says, is to<br />

“really use my lifetime, my ideas,<br />

and questi<strong>on</strong>s that I put forth<br />

to the world…to try to make<br />

bodies of work in relati<strong>on</strong>ship<br />

to that.” Opie has set her prolific<br />

and technically exacting work<br />

<strong>on</strong> tableaux such as Tea Party<br />

rallies, President Barack Obama’s<br />

first inaugurati<strong>on</strong>, high school<br />

football, San Francisco’s b<strong>on</strong>dage<br />

community, and natural and<br />

human-made landscapes such<br />

CATHERINE OPIE/REGEN PROJECTS, LA AND LEHMANN MAUPIN, NY & HONG KONG (ALL)<br />

26 POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS APRIL <strong>2016</strong>


JEWELS<br />

“Emeralds,”<br />

2010–2011 (top<br />

left), from 700<br />

Nimes Road<br />

(Elizabeth Taylor).<br />

DRESS UP<br />

“Oliver in a Tutu,”<br />

2004, from In and<br />

Around Home.<br />

BALLER<br />

“Kaine,” 2007,<br />

from High School<br />

Football.<br />

as the Los Angeles freeways and<br />

Yosemite Nati<strong>on</strong>al Park. Each image<br />

peers into its subject and points to<br />

the c<strong>on</strong>text in which it sits.<br />

As William Egglest<strong>on</strong> did with<br />

his still lifes of Elvis Presley’s<br />

Graceland in 1984, at Taylor’s home<br />

Opie c<strong>on</strong>structed a similar mosaic<br />

and she takes care to point out<br />

that by fitting disparate images<br />

together, we get to know the pers<strong>on</strong>,<br />

not her stuff. “It’s the simple idea<br />

of what bearing witness does,”<br />

Opie says. “You bear witness to a<br />

home. You c<strong>on</strong>struct something in<br />

relati<strong>on</strong>ship.”<br />

For Opie, those relati<strong>on</strong>ships<br />

extend not <strong>on</strong>ly into Taylor’s own<br />

life and our cultural history in<br />

relati<strong>on</strong> to her, but into the whole<br />

history of portraiture. Start with<br />

her photo of Andy Warhol’s portrait<br />

of Taylor. “It’s about me the artist<br />

looking at Elizabeth, but also there’s<br />

a relati<strong>on</strong>ship to artists or history<br />

having a look at Elizabeth,” Opie<br />

says. “There’s a kind of layering...<br />

that begins to create or designate<br />

the noti<strong>on</strong> of portraiture for me.”<br />

Peel back more layers of relati<strong>on</strong>ship—between<br />

artist and<br />

subject, art and audience, artist<br />

and history—and the audience is<br />

pulled into a c<strong>on</strong>versati<strong>on</strong> with<br />

artists who came centuries ago. In a<br />

recent series of portraits (in another<br />

show at UCLA’s Hammer Museum<br />

through May 22), Opie’s friends<br />

and associates sit in poses remi-<br />

POPPHOTO.COM/CAMPUS POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS 27


niscent of Renaissance portraits:<br />

emerging from an inky background,<br />

their faces more illuminated than<br />

lit. Idexa kneels inside the frame<br />

gazing into the distance, allowing<br />

us to gaze back at her elaborately<br />

tattooed body. Author J<strong>on</strong>athan<br />

Franzen sits with his back to the<br />

camera, inviting us to read over his<br />

shoulder. The chiaroscuro-style portraits<br />

have a str<strong>on</strong>g relati<strong>on</strong>ship to<br />

painting, especially to the portraits<br />

of Old Masters such as Hans Holbein,<br />

Rembrandt, and Caravaggio.<br />

Opie looks at that relati<strong>on</strong>ship both<br />

c<strong>on</strong>ceptually and technically.<br />

“The questi<strong>on</strong> that I’m asking...<br />

now [involves] lighting and the way<br />

<strong>on</strong>e would think about Renaissance<br />

lighting,” Opie explains. “Are we<br />

able to hold the pers<strong>on</strong> l<strong>on</strong>ger, to<br />

think about portraiture vis-à-vis<br />

the fact that social media has taken<br />

over in relati<strong>on</strong>ship to the selfie?<br />

By using an older trope, do I have<br />

people actually standing before the<br />

work l<strong>on</strong>ger?”<br />

OVERPASSES<br />

Untitled #2, #1,<br />

#11, and #30,<br />

1994, from Opie’s<br />

series Freeways.<br />

INTIMATE<br />

POSESSIONS<br />

“Jewelry Box #6,”<br />

2010–2011, from<br />

700 Nimes Road<br />

(Elizabeth Taylor).<br />

IMAGE OF<br />

AN ARTIST<br />

“R<strong>on</strong>,” 2013, from<br />

Recent Portraits.<br />

28 POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS APRIL <strong>2016</strong>


To achieve that seductive effect,<br />

Opie uses ProPhoto lights with<br />

a fresnel over the strobe. (She<br />

shoots with a Hasselblad H2 and<br />

Phase One Q180 back.) “Then I’m<br />

able to c<strong>on</strong>trol the light <strong>on</strong> the<br />

subject,” she says. “N<strong>on</strong>e of the<br />

light manipulati<strong>on</strong> has happened<br />

post-producti<strong>on</strong>; it’s all d<strong>on</strong>e at<br />

the time of photographing. So I’m<br />

treating digital, for the most part,<br />

still as a platform, like I would treat<br />

a negative.”<br />

In the Portraits and Landscapes<br />

show at the Hammer and at<br />

Lehmann Maupin’s Chelsea gallery,<br />

Opie’s landscapes sit like space bars<br />

amid the portraits’ rich allegorical<br />

text. They prelude a six-story<br />

mural of Yosemite Falls that will<br />

be installed in May at the new L.A.<br />

federal courthouse. These images,<br />

too, invite pause. They stop the<br />

viewer as the brain tries to decipher<br />

the details. Then the gaze softens,<br />

as if staring l<strong>on</strong>g enough might<br />

make the image drift into focus.<br />

More questi<strong>on</strong>s. “How do we keep<br />

people looking at images?” Opie<br />

asks. “Why are images still important<br />

in this completely saturated<br />

image space, a culture that has been<br />

created through social media?”<br />

As UCLA faculty, Opie advises artists<br />

to follow their passi<strong>on</strong>, understand<br />

their work in c<strong>on</strong>text, and to<br />

ask questi<strong>on</strong>s. “That’s the cool thing<br />

about being an artist, right? You get<br />

to ask a lot of questi<strong>on</strong>s and try to<br />

figure them out by making work,”<br />

she says. “Be passi<strong>on</strong>ate, and where<br />

passi<strong>on</strong> al<strong>on</strong>e doesn’t answer everything,<br />

allow complexities to come<br />

in within your work [that] allow you<br />

to understand, really, the language<br />

that you’re working with.<br />

“And d<strong>on</strong>’t stop,” she c<strong>on</strong>tinues.<br />

“That’s the beauty of being able to<br />

express, of knowing <strong>on</strong>e’s medium<br />

and history of art in depth—to<br />

really explore the complexities of<br />

ideas of representati<strong>on</strong>. I never run<br />

out of questi<strong>on</strong>s, and that’s really<br />

a nice thing.”<br />

POPPHOTO.COM/CAMPUS POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS 29


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30 POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS APRIL <strong>2016</strong>


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c<strong>on</strong>figured 24.2MP APS-C-sized Exmor CMOS sensor to assist in<br />

video capture, now boosted to an oversampled 4K resoluti<strong>on</strong> at 30,<br />

25, and 24 fps. Still shooters will like its robust 425-point autofocus<br />

system and improved subject tracking, high-speed burst mode of 11<br />

fps, and expanded ISO up to 51,200. s<strong>on</strong>y.com<br />

Fujifilm X-Pro2 $1,699 A score for mirrorless camera<br />

fans: its re-engineered hybrid viewfinder blends optical and digital<br />

readouts to enhance manual focus and provide real-time camera<br />

data with opti<strong>on</strong>s for a bright-line rangefinder view and digital splitscreen<br />

focusing. The new 24.3MP APS-C-sized X-Trans sensor is<br />

sensitive up to 51,200 for low-light shooting. fujifilm.com<br />

Pentax K-1 $1,800 This DSLR brings the solid Pentax<br />

design to the realm of full-frame digital cameras. Its 36.4MP CMOS<br />

sensor is incorporated into a five-axis stabilizer for shake reducti<strong>on</strong><br />

and use in creative modes like its Astro Tracer for stellar imaging. A<br />

pentaprism viewfinder and novel articulated LCD screen are added<br />

perks. us.ricoh-imaging.com<br />

Nik<strong>on</strong> D500 $1,997 Nik<strong>on</strong>’s new top APS-C-format (DX)<br />

DSLR body has a rugged magnesium-alloy frame and integrates a<br />

20.9MP sensor with impressive ISO sensitivity—expandable to cover<br />

ISO 50 to 1,640,000—and the ability to churn out 4K video at up to<br />

30 fps or Full HD at up to 60 fps. Nik<strong>on</strong> added 153 AF points, 99 of<br />

which are cross-type, and 10 fps shooting. nik<strong>on</strong>usa.com<br />

Can<strong>on</strong> EOS-1D X Mark II $5,999 This DSLR<br />

sports a 20.2MP full-frame sensor and two DIGIC 6+ image<br />

processors. Its UDMA7-compatible CompactFlash slot and CFast 2.0<br />

slot lets you capture large, Fine JPEGs (up to 73 RAW images <strong>on</strong> a<br />

UDMA7 CF card, or 170 RAW shots <strong>on</strong> a CFast2.0 card). It records<br />

4K video at up to 60 fps as Moti<strong>on</strong> JPEG files and offers ALL-I or IPB<br />

compressi<strong>on</strong> when recording Full HD at up to 120 fps. The expanded<br />

sensitivity range spans ISO 50 to 409,600. usa.can<strong>on</strong>.com<br />

POPPHOTO.COM/CAMPUS POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS 31


TOOLS WHAT IT TAKES SHOE-MOUNT FLASH<br />

HOT<br />

SHOT<br />

To freeze acti<strong>on</strong>,<br />

try using an<br />

accessory flash<br />

OUR WEB EDITOR Stan Horaczek<br />

took <strong>on</strong> a cool assignment a few<br />

years back: An aspiring Hollywood<br />

professi<strong>on</strong>al asked him to help<br />

build a portfolio of acti<strong>on</strong> photos<br />

that she hoped would get her stunt<br />

work. To create the acti<strong>on</strong>—here<br />

taken am<strong>on</strong>g state office buildings<br />

in Albany, New York—she planted<br />

her foot <strong>on</strong> the edge of a large public<br />

sculpture and acrobatically pushed<br />

herself off it into a flip. For the shot<br />

to work, Horaczek had to catch her<br />

at exactly the right moment and<br />

keep her as sharp as possible. His<br />

perfect timing assured the former<br />

and his flash the latter.<br />

Why Use It<br />

Even though the scene had plenty<br />

of natural light, Horaczek needed<br />

the pop of his shoe-mount flash. Its<br />

additi<strong>on</strong>al output illuminated detail<br />

in his subject’s black dress: You can<br />

see the folds, and even a little of<br />

the texture, in its dark fabric. They<br />

wouldn’t have recorded if Horaczek<br />

relied <strong>on</strong> available light.<br />

But that’s not the main reas<strong>on</strong> he<br />

added the flash. “Hotshoe flashes<br />

typically have pretty fast flash<br />

durati<strong>on</strong>s, and this <strong>on</strong>e did a good<br />

job freezing her,” says Horaczek. His<br />

Can<strong>on</strong> 580EX Speedlite's durati<strong>on</strong><br />

of approximately 1/2000 sec (at full<br />

power), was much shorter than his<br />

sluggish—by acti<strong>on</strong> standards—<br />

1/160 sec shutter speed. The flash<br />

assured the sharpness he needed,<br />

and because it was held off-camera<br />

and up high, it cast that cool<br />

shadow behind his subject.<br />

How to Use It<br />

To get the shortest flash durati<strong>on</strong>s,<br />

switch your unit to manual mode,<br />

and set the lowest power output (i.e.<br />

1/32 or 1/64 power). For this subject,<br />

however, full-power delivered<br />

sharpness enough. —Peter Kol<strong>on</strong>ia<br />

Horaczek used a<br />

Can<strong>on</strong> EOS 5D Mark<br />

III and Can<strong>on</strong> EF<br />

24–105mm f/4L IS<br />

USM lens. Exposure<br />

1/160 sec at f/8,<br />

ISO 400. The 580 EX<br />

Speed lite flash was<br />

set to full power.<br />

STAN HORACZEK (PORTRAIT)<br />

32 POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS APRIL <strong>2016</strong>


Alpha Universe Magazine<br />

A World of <str<strong>on</strong>g>Photography</str<strong>on</strong>g> Inspirati<strong>on</strong>.<br />

— In-depth features across all areas of photography<br />

— Learn from Acclaimed S<strong>on</strong>y Artisans such as Brian Smith, Me Ra Koh, Ira Block and more<br />

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Available for download in the iTunes ® and Google Play stores and with select issues of <str<strong>on</strong>g>Popular</str<strong>on</strong>g> <str<strong>on</strong>g>Photography</str<strong>on</strong>g>.<br />

AlphaUniverse.com<br />

@S<strong>on</strong>yAlpha<br />

©<strong>2016</strong> S<strong>on</strong>y Electr<strong>on</strong>ics Inc. S<strong>on</strong>y and the S<strong>on</strong>y logo are trademarks of S<strong>on</strong>y Corporati<strong>on</strong>. All rights reserved. S<strong>on</strong>y and the S<strong>on</strong>y logo<br />

are trademarks of S<strong>on</strong>y. All other trademarks are trademarks of their respective owners. iTunes is a trademark of Apple Inc., registered in the<br />

U.S. and other countries. Google Play is a trademark of Google Inc.<br />

POPPHOTO.COM/CAMPUS POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS 33


SHOOT THIS ROOFLINES<br />

AN ARCHITECTURAL photographer<br />

based in Chicago, Slobodan Blagojevic<br />

visited New York in 2013 and<br />

toured the Museum of Modern Art.<br />

Looking out from a top floor, Blagojevic<br />

was struck by the elements of<br />

French, Palladian, neoclassical, and<br />

modernist styles in sight.<br />

Rooftops offer refreshingly atypical<br />

views of buildings compared to<br />

what we experience from the street.<br />

They’re also home to distinctive<br />

objects. Blagojevic, for example,<br />

enjoys shooting Manhattan’s water<br />

TOP OF THE WORLD<br />

Get up high to change your perspective<br />

towers. L<strong>on</strong>d<strong>on</strong> has its chimneys<br />

and Paris its distinctively shaped<br />

mansard rooflines—most places can<br />

look distinctive from up high.<br />

If you want to try for yourself,<br />

Blagojevic advises to first make sure<br />

your camera is level. This keeps a<br />

scene’s vertical lines distorti<strong>on</strong>-free<br />

and parallel to the frame edges. Try<br />

not to shoot your subject through a<br />

window: it can add unwanted reflecti<strong>on</strong>s,<br />

blurriness, and color shifts,<br />

especially if the glass is thick, coated,<br />

or tinted.<br />

—Peter Kol<strong>on</strong>ia<br />

A DIFFERENT<br />

VIEW<br />

Blagojevic used a<br />

Can<strong>on</strong> EOS 60D<br />

and EF 17–55mm<br />

f/2.8 IS USM lens,<br />

exposing for 1/80<br />

sec at f/4, ISO<br />

400.<br />

YOUR<br />

ASSIGNMENT<br />

Photograph rooftops or a roofline<br />

and try to capture the character<br />

or pers<strong>on</strong>ality of the architecture,<br />

the city, or the atmosphere. Look<br />

for eye-catching angles, lighting,<br />

and design. Share to Instagram<br />

or Facebook with the hashtag<br />

#AssignmentPopPhoto for the<br />

chance to be featured <strong>on</strong> www.<br />

PopPhoto.com/campus.<br />

SLOBODAN BLAGOJEVIC<br />

34 POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS APRIL <strong>2016</strong>


Register for<br />

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36 POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS APRIL <strong>2016</strong><br />

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