Tokyo Weekender August 2017

AUGUST 2017 

Japan’s number one English language magazine 

CRAVING AN ISLAND GETAWAY? IT'S CLOSER THAN YOU THINK... 

PLUS: A Day in the Life of a Rickshaw Driver, Summer Cruises in Tokyo, and Who is the Greatest Japanese Person Ever?

20 

14 23 

28 

radar 

THIS MONTH’S HEAD TURNERS 

8 AREA GUIDE: KURAMAE 

How this Edo period neighborhood has sustained 

its relevance through craftsmanship. 

10 STYLE 

Get the vacation look with chic items for 

beach getaways and summer sundowners. 

12 TRENDS 

Rooftops, pools, cocktails and beers: find 

your perfect outdoor drinks spot. 

14 TRAVEL 

Meet some of Japan's top artisans in one of 

the world's most famous industrial regions. 

18 THE CONCIERGE 

in-depth 

COFFEE-BREAK READS 

20 SEEKING WHITE SAND 

Craving an island getaway? Here are three 

destinations in Japan that should be on the 

list of “Asia’s best beaches.” 

23 THAT OUTDOOR IZAKAYA FEELING 

Street-pub dining is the best way to enjoy 

Tokyo’s balmy summer nights. Create your 

own balcony izakaya dinner with these four 

simple traditional recipes. 

26 FIVE UNIQUE SUMMER CRUISES 

Free your mind from the hectic city by 

setting sail on Tokyo’s waterways. 

28 A DAY IN THE LIFE OF A 

RICKSHAW DRIVER 

30 HOW "ASIAN BOSS" IS EXPLODING 

CULTURAL STEREOTYPES 

And getting Tokyoites to open up. 

32 WHO IS THE GREATEST JAPANESE 

PERSON EVER? 

The results are in: we count down the top 15. 

guide 

CULTURE ROUNDUP 

37 ART & EVENTS 

Yokohama Triennale, Arcimboldo, and 

stretching the bounds of possibility. 

40 AGENDA 

Awaodori, samba, ghosts, and the all-night 

concert of Sonic Mania. 


Editor's picks from our roundup of top restaurants, 

salons, and services in the city. 

We chat with a veteran "shafu" about the 

best, worst, and weirdest parts of the job. 

42 SOCIETY 

Tokyo's longest-running social column.


Publisher 

President 

Executive Producer 

Editor in Chief 

Senior Editors 

Creative Director 

Features Writer 

Contributors 

Sales Director 

Sales Executives 

Marketing Director 

Media Consultant 

Media Producers 

ENGAWA Co., Ltd. 

Takanobu Ushiyama 

Naoya Takahashi 

Annemarie Luck 

Alec Jordan 

Lisa Wallin 

Liam Ramshaw 

Matthew Hernon 

Vivian Morelli 

Bill Hersey 

Bunny Bissoux 

Takaaki Murai 

Hirofumi Ohuchi 

Kahori Terakawa 

Ayane Sugawara 

Azusa Yoshida 

Jessica Yumi Idomoto 

Mary Rudow 

Claudia Sun 

Yuda Chou 

Cover photo by Yumi Idomoto 

EST. Corky Alexander, 1970 

SSU Bld. 1F 4-12-8 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku 

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Opinions expressed by Weekender contributors 

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4 | AUGUST 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER

@bapawn: I have to admit, after reading Matthew 

Hernon’s survey of the greatest Japanese people in 

history [page 32], I was truly surprised by the winner. 

genki even when he’s running tourists around Asakusa 

for hours on end! I really enjoyed reading about him 

[page 28]. 

@mizrama: I think everyone in the office was. It’s 

always refreshing when people don’t just vote for the 

usual suspects. Who would you nominate? 

@bapawn: Probably someone like Tokugawa, who 

ended up truly shaping the direction of Japanese history, 

or Murasaki Shikibu, the author of The Tale of Genji. 

Depending on whom you ask, it’s one of the first novels 

in history. But I might be a little old-fashioned. 

@mizrama: Well, it makes sense that people look to the 

past and to dramatic historical events for this kind of 

subject. But there are also so many unsung heroes who 

deserve a mention. In this month’s Niigata travel feature 

[page 14], for example, we met an 85-year-old craftsman 

who has been working as a blacksmith since he was 

15. He is undoubtedly one of Japan’s most dedicated 

artisans. 

@bapawn: Or the rickshaw driver who manages to stay 

@mizrama: That is one of Japan’s charms, isn’t it. The 

ability to stay, or at least appear, genki no matter what 

kind of customer you’re dealing with. 

@bapawn: And if that’s one standard for greatness, 

I think that there need to be a lot more Number Ones 

handed out! 

@mizrama: Absolutely! When I visited Tokashiki Island 

[page 20], I was so bowled over by the warmth of the 

guesthouse owner. In the first hour we were there, she 

basically told us her life story, and by the time we left, I 

felt almost like part of her family. 

@bapawn: Did that end up swaying your vote for best 

beach in Japan? 

@mizrama: I think it might have swayed my vote for 

best beach in the world! 

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WHAT’S ON OUR RADAR THIS MONTH... 

Poolside cocktails and rooftop beer gardens, a crafty neighborhood guide, 

and a journey to Niigata to meet some of Japan's top metalworking artisans. 

TOKYO WEEKENDER | | AUGUST 2017 | 7

AREA GUIDE 

CRAFT A 

STRATEGY 

FOR KURAMAE 

Words and photographs by Luca Eandi 

This Edo period neighborhood on 

the Sumida River made its name as a 

storage site for rice but has sustained 

relevance into the present through 

craftsmanship 

AGAINST THE GRAIN 

Located on the Sumida River, Kuramae was once a hub for 

rice granaries, and that’s where it gets its name – kura is 

“storage houses” and mae is “in front of.” A couple centuries 

ago, rice was a currency, so Kuramae was a banking 

district of sorts. As rice downshifted to a commodity and 

distribution centers disseminated, artisans and craftsmen 

moved into the neighborhood, taking over warehouses and 

turning them into workspaces and shops. The proximity to 

the river still makes this area highly attractive, as in-towners 

relish the opportunity to stroll or jog along the Sumida 

River Terrace and enjoy the open space. Kuramae Shrine, 

established at the nexus of the neighborhood’s economic 

boom in 1694, is also a hallowed landmark. 

SHE’S CRAFTY 

There’s a whole slew of showrooms to admire the 

best that Kuramae has to offer in the way of crafts 

and artisanal products. Yuichiro Murakami’s shop, 

M+, deals in leather goods, a trade he spent years 

in Italy learning and whose mastery is manifested 

in a variety of beautiful bags, wallets and functional 

accessories. Kakimori is a stationery store 

that carries the tools needed to keep the art of 

letter-writing alive and well. For fabrics, Maito exclusively 

sells products dyed using the kusaki-zome 

technique – extracting liquids from flowers, roots 

and leaves. Mokuba specializes in ribbons and 

offers endless options for wrapping gifts in style. 

For trendy homewares look for Koncent, curated 

by renowned design consulting group, H Concept. 


POUR SOME SUGAR ON ME 

No reputable Tokyo neighborhood is complete 

without its share of coffee shops and 

intimate cafés, and Kuramae has both in 

heaps. Camera has good coffee and food, as 

well as a nice showroom of leather goods to 

peruse while you wait. Sol’s Coffee also does 

double duty, operating out of the Koncent 

homewares store. Square Café, Coffee Nova 

and Splendor Coffee round out the list of 

the neighborhood’s notable roasted bean 

breweries. For sweets, you won’t be let down 

by Dandelion Chocolate Factory & Café, a 

recent San Francisco transplant dealing in 

boutique chocolate, cookies and even booze. 

For more traditional Japanese confectioneries, 

Eikyudo has a variety of wagashi sweets 

they’ve been selling since 1887. 

TOYS IN THE ATTIC 

In addition to crafts, Kuramae is also home 

to a number of notable toy stores. Yoshichi 

Kimura has a variety of traditional kites, hand 

fans and wooden kokeshi dolls. Yamagata and 

Isobe Mitsuru are both stocked to the gills 

with vintage Super Robots, model trains and 

toy cars. Gun Mall has almost-too-realistic 

replicas of firearms and all-too-real airsoft 

weapons for cosplayers and enthusiasts 

alike. Mainstays Bandai and Epoch have their 

headquarters in the neighborhood as well. On 

the decorating side, Saiga and Kishi’s Party 

Store offers banners, balloons and ornaments 

to suit any special occasion and holiday, while 

Hanabiya and Matsuki will supply festive and 

colorful ordnance for summertime fireworks. 

ALL NIGHT THING 

From grabbing a quick lunch to settling in 

for dinner all the way to downing late-night 

drinks, Kuramae has you covered. Genraku 

Sohonten is a good ramen spot, specializing 

in the tonkotsu variety. For a sandwich, 

McLean Old Burger Shack serves up 

satisfying meaty fare. Further south towards 

Asakusabashi, Hapa is the rare Tokyo restaurant 

that caters to the gluten-free crowd with 

generous portions of celiac-friendly pasta and 

soba noodles. Elegant Cielo y Rio lets you 

dine with a great view of the river on multiple 

levels. If you want to make it an all-nighter, 

Nui Hostel and Bar Lounge has a great 

bar on the ground level, and after you’ve had 

one too many, you can go upstairs and sleep 

it off in one of their comfortable beds. 


STYLE 

CHLOÉ SANDALS 

Reminiscent of traditional Japanese geta, these Chloé slides would 

not look out of place paired with a yukata to hit those summer 

fireworks festivals. The satin crossover straps are printed with a 

vibrant mix of ecru, orange and pink florals apparently inspired by 

the brand’s founder Gaby Aghion’s birthplace of Egypt. Wear them 

with jeans, mini and maxi skirts – and of course, your yukata! 

chloe.com 

THE 

Vacation 

LOOK 

CHIC STYLE FOR BEACH GETAWAYS 

AND SUMMER SUNDOWNERS 

Compiled by Vivian Morelli 

SELF-PORTRAIT DRESS 

In the August sweltering heat and humidity, it’s 

tempting to just give up on making an effort to 

dress up and instead reach out for whatever 

item in your wardrobe is lightest and most 

comfortable. This dress offers a pretty good 

solution to your summer woes: it’s airy, stylish 

and easy to just slip on. The delicate floral 

lace top (with partial lining at the top) is flirty 

and playful, and the poplin mini skirt even has 

pockets for a more casual vibe. Pair it with flats 

to balance out the short length. 

self-portrait-studio.com

PRADA BACKPACK 

August equals holidays, and for trips to the beach or overseas getaways, 

a backpack is an essential accessory to carry all your stuff. This Prada 

number is adorned with the label’s signature colorful robots. The padded 

mesh back and adjustable shoulder straps make it comfortable and 

practical. Even if you’re not going anywhere on vacation, you’ll be able to 

use this bag for the gym or even for your daily commute to work – yes, 

even paired with a suit, as it’s Prada. 

prada.com 

MCQ ALEXANDER MCQUEEN T-SHIRT 

McQ, the streetwear division of the brand created by the late Alexander 

McQueen, features the same rebellious and fun items, but at a more 

affordable price point. This particular number is a fun twist on the classic 

striped T-shirt, with irregular patterns and a hot pink swallow-skull 

appliqué. The pattern is in fact a black and white photocopy of folded 

fabric, which makes for a good summer party conversation starter. 

mcq.com 

HEIDI KLEIN 

SWIMSUIT 

Beach season is not over yet, so take 

advantage of the mid-summer sales to 

pick up new swimwear. Whether you hit 

the beaches surrounding Tokyo or travel 

to a more exotic locale [see page 20], this 

Burgundy one-piece suit is all you need to 

pack. We like the flattering bandeau shape 

and ruched stretched fabric, which will 

smooth everything out for a streamlined 

silhouette. The suit comes with optional 

halter straps for added support. 

heidiklein.com 

ADIDAS ORIGINALS SNEAKERS 

We love, love, love the ubiquitous Stan Smith sneakers, which have 

been around since the 70s and have grown to become an iconic shoe 

style. While everyone these days is wearing a version or another of Stan 

Smiths, you can stand out of the pack with this mint-green pair, which is 

perfectly refreshing for summer. Pair them with jeans and a simple white 

T-shirt for an effortless yet stylish look. 

adidas.com

TRENDS 

ROOFTOPS, POOLS, 

COCKTAILS & BEERS 

FIND YOUR PERFECT OUTDOOR DRINKS SPOT 

Compiled by Annemarie Luck 

THE “O” LOUNGE 

WHAT’S THE APPEAL? Surrounded 

by a Japanese garden, the pool at the 

Hotel New Otani is the largest outdoor 

hotel pool in Tokyo. Known as Garden 

Pool by day, this urban oasis transforms 

into The “O” Lounge after sunset, 

complete with decorative lights, freeflowing 

drinks, and music by top DJs. 

WHAT’S THE DEAL? The night pool 

is open Monday to Saturday until September 

17 (also open on Sunday, August 13 

and September 17) from 6pm to 10pm (last 

admission 9pm). Hotel guests pay ¥2,000 

(¥1,000 for children); visitors pay ¥8,000 on 

weekdays, and ¥10,000 on weekends. 

ANYTHING ELSE? If you want to 

stay the night, check out Hotel New 

Otani’s “Urban Resort Summer 2017” 

summer accommodation plans. 

More info at www.newotani.co.jp/en/ 

tokyo/summer 


THE ROOFTOP BBQ BEER GARDEN KICHIJOJI 

WHAT’S THE APPEAL? Inspired by the surf town of Montauk, just outside 

New York City, this rooftop barbecue beer garden provides a laid-back atmosphere 

with a menu of freshly grilled seafood and steak. 

WHAT’S THE DEAL? Open from 5pm-11pm until October 1 on Kichijoji’s Parco 

rooftop, the beer garden can hold 350 people, and has three surf-and-turf course menus: 

premium (¥5,000), standard (¥4,000), and light (¥3,500). All courses include an all-youcan-drink 

menu (for two hours) featuring draft beer, cocktails, soft drinks and more. 

ANYTHING ELSE? If you’re closer to Ikebukuro, The Rooftop also 

has a branch atop Lumine Ikebukuro. 

More info at the-rooftop.jp 

LUGAR HA AMOR 

WHAT’S THE APPEAL? This 

luxury rooftop beer garden offers tasty 

brews, superb night-city views, and a 

selection of comfy sofa beds (including 

cozy ones made for couples). 

WHAT’S THE DEAL? Open until 

September 30 on the rooftop of Machida 

Modi department store, Lugar Ha 

Amor has three different course menu 

options: midnight (¥3,000), standard 

(¥4,500), and VIP (¥5,000). 

ANYTHING ELSE? Aside from relaxing 

music, entertainment is provided 

by way of a gigantic TV screen that you 

can rent for birthday message videos, 

marriage proposals, and so on. 

More info at www.lugar-ha-amor.com 

SHOWA-ERA 

BEER GARDEN 

WHAT’S THE APPEAL? Held 

at Grand Hyatt Tokyo’s spacious 

outdoor Chapel Garden, this summer 

beer garden is themed around 

Japan’s Showa era – a period that’s 

currently experiencing a bit of a 

renaissance in Japan. Feel the good 

old times from this era at this retro 

event which will exude the ambience 

of 50s and 60s Japan, and feature paper lanterns, draft beer, and uchiwa (Japanese 

paper fans). 

WHAT’S THE DEAL? Open until August 31 from 5pm-9pm, an evening here 

includes popular music from the era as well as Showa-inspired snacks and free-flowing 

beverages such as highballs, beer, Hoppy, and shochu cocktails – all for just ¥6,000. 

ANYTHING ELSE? Reservations are required three days in advance, and be sure to 

check the website for the specific dates it’s open. 

More info at hyperurl.co/TWshowabeer 


FORGED BY FIRE 

Words by Lisa Wallin, photos by Chris Mollison 

Meet some of Japan's top 

artisans and try your hand 

at metalworking in one of 

the most famous industrial 

regions in the world 

We arrived just in time to 

catch a glimpse of the 

sweat, blood, and tears 

that go into making the 

high quality products Japan 

is known for worldwide. Just a two-hour 

shinkansen trip from Tokyo, Niigata's Sanjo 

and Tsubame cities – which are technically 

two separate municipalities, but are often 

branded as one – are famous for their metalworking, 

with the region's artisans being 

particularly known for their innovation and 

dedication to their craft. 

The region's industry can be traced back 

to humble beginnings, when only a few lone 

craftsmen made wakugi (a Japanese-style 

nail) during the Edo period, and recently 

there's been a move to connect the artisans 

directly to their customers through factory 

tours and events. The idea is that through 

witnessing the labor-intensive process 

behind crafted items, customers can gain an 

understanding into their creation. 

TRAVEL 

SANJO AND TSUBAME: 

SANJO: HEAVY METAL 

AND BACH 

We decided to try out craftsman 

life for ourselves at Sanjo 

Blacksmith Training Hall, a 

facility that opened in 2005 

with the aim of keeping traditional 

techniques alive. It also 

offers metalworking lessons to 

laymen. With our hearts set on 

making a letter opener from a 

nail, we set to work. The fire 

was blazing hot, the tools were 

heavy, and our aim was off. 

Our teacher, craftsman Takashi 

Matsuhira, gave a helping hand 

which was simultaneously 

awe-inspiring and demoralizing. 

He hammered everything 

out in mere seconds, while it 

took us several long minutes. 

With his guidance, we made a 

katana-shaped letter opener that 

was as beautiful as it was sharp. 

Next, we headed over to Suwada Blacksmith 

Works, where their open factory featured 

large windows and zoomable TV screens which 

allowed us to get a closer look at what was going 

on behind the glass. One of the craftsmen on site, 

Hideo Kobayashi, is 85 and has been working in 

the industry since he was 15. He listens to Bach 

as he works. Though many like him are veterans, 

there are increasing numbers of younger people 

joining their ranks. 

Starving after our not-so-hard work, we 

headed to Chinese restaurant Taikanro for some 

typical Sanjo soul food: curry ramen. The spicy, 

thin soup was served with thick-cut fries lurking 

among the noodles – an unexpected but not bad 

combination. Afterwards, we stopped by Kitaimogawa 

terraced rice fields to take in the stunning 


[ PROMOTION ] 

HE LISTENS 

TO BACH 

AS HE 

WORKS 

MORE 

THINGS 

TO DO 

Steel yourselves – there's 

more to Sanjo and 

Tsubame than just metal 

1. MEET SOME MISO 

Perfect for foodies, Echigo Miso 

does tours of their miso-making 

process in an Edo period building. 

www.echigomiso.co.jp 

2. WHITTLE IN SOME 

WOODWORK 

Marunao is a company now in its 

third generation – they started with 

decorative adornments for shrines 

and temples, moved to tools for 

tradesmen, and they now focus 

on chopsticks. www.marunao.com 

view over the steps of green while sipping on 

delicious fresh mountain spring water – straight 

from the source. 

We settled in for the night at a delightfully 

secluded – and we mean secluded – ryokan 

perched next to the Sumon River, called Rankeiso. 

This roughly 100-year-old inn would fit 

seamlessly into a Ghibli movie. There's nothing 

like drifting off to sleep to the sweet sound of 

silence... 

(literally "back fat") ramen, our last stop for the 

day was Gyokusendo, famed worldwide for its 

hand-hammered copper kettles. While many 

machine-made products are at their prime when 

a customer receives them, copperware becomes 

more beautiful starting the moment the customer 

lays their hands on it. The lustre continues to 

develop as it's used over generations. In a rustic, 

100-year-old house-cum-workshop, we watched 

a handful of artisans rhythmically beat sheets of 

copper into shape. As one artisan melted some 

silver in a fire, we took a moment to appreciate the 

skill, time and dedication required for these beautiful 

products we choose to place in our homes. 

3. SHOP 'TIL YOU DROP 

You’ll find wares made by all the 

manufacturers we’ve mentioned 

and dozens more at the Tsubamesanjo 

Regional Promotional Center, 

a mecca for all things locally 

produced. 

www.tsjiba.or.jp/en/shopping 

4. DINE LIKE A NOBEL 

LAUREATE 

Only a few can nab a coveted seat 

at the annual Nobel Prize Banquet, 

but restaurant Messepia offers 

diners the chance to at least enjoy 

a meal with the same prestigious 

cutlery used in Stockholm. (Located 

inside the Tsubamesanjo Regional 

Promotional Center, see above.) 

TSUBAME: KNIVES AND COPPER 

Starting the day at Tojiro Co., Ltd, we learned 

that craftsmen here spend over 10 years perfecting 

their knife-making skills. Some blades 

are the sole responsibility of one lone artisan 

and it takes them 30 to 45 days to make one 

knife. The final touch is the name of the company 

hand engraved into the blade – just like 

sword makers did back in the day – leaving a 

distinctive style so that the knife can be traced 

back to the person who made it. 

After tucking into lunch at Koushuhanten, 

a popular local joint serving seabura

[ PROMOTION ] 

DISCOVER NIIGATA 

IN TOKYO 

If you can’t make it all the way to Sanjo- 

Tsubame and surrounds just yet, then head to 

the Tabisuru Shintora Market at Toranomon 

Hills to join a workshop and shop for Japanmade 

crafts from Niigata 

Promoting local 

regions from across 

the nation, Tabisuru 

Shintora Market 

is a new ongoing 

event outside Toranomon Hills 

that opened earlier this year. The 

current theme, named Summer 

Breeze, features five cities from 

Niigata touting their wares and 

local specialties. 

If our metalworking experience 

at Sanjo’s Blacksmith 

Training Hall (see previous page) 

caught your fancy, you can get 

a glimpse of the city’s famous 

metalwork right here in Tokyo. 

Drop by the Sanjo Blacksmith 

Training Hall exhibition at Tabisuru 

Shintora Market to learn 

about the area’s traditional techniques. 

The exhibit is located 

inside a small black truck and 

is open every weekend until September 

10. 

For those who would like 

something a little more handson, 

the market hosts regular 

workshops in a wide variety of 

disciplines. So far, visitors have experienced 

knife-sharpening tutorials, 

making chopstick rests in the shape 

of copper leaves, wagashi-making and 

more. (Check the website for updates 

on upcoming workshops: www.tabisuru-market.jp). 

Finally, if you’re itching to get 

your hands on some of the gorgeous 

crafts and similar items we focused 

on in our Sanjo-Tsubame travel feature, 

but you don’t have the time to 

go visit firsthand, the Tabisuru store 

serves as the perfect one-stop shop, 

offering both traditional and modern 

high quality crafts from Niigata. 

Browse their extensive selection of 

homewares, kitchen tools, and fashion 

accessories and delight in being 

surrounded by items crafted with 

love and care. 


5 MUST-BUYS 

AT TABISURU 

SHINTORA 

MARKET 

HERE ARE SOME OF OUR 

FAVORITE ITEMS ON 

OFFER FROM DIFFERENT 

CITIES AROUND NIIGATA 

NAIL CLIPPERS FROM SANJO 

Once you try these, you’ll never go back 

to cheap, hundred yen shop snippers ever 

again. The differences are many, but one 

key point is the seamless fit of the blades 

when they come together. This creates a 

clean cut that doesn’t tear your nails apart 

and eliminates the need to file them. This 

kind of perfection can only be achieved 

by the keen eye and steady hand of an 

experienced master craftsman. For those 

keen on seeing the step-by-step process 

of making these, pop by Suwada’s open 

factory (see page 14) to witness artisans 

honing their craft. 

Suwada nail clippers, ¥7,020 

STEAMER FROM NAGAOKA 

This rounded, wappa-style steamer is 

made using the same method as it was 

during the Edo period, but is just as useful 

– if not more so – as it was 185 years ago. 

The whole steamer, including the lacing 

keeping it together, is made with wood, 

so the entire thing is microwaveable. The 

set includes a lid and stand (made with 

southern Japanese hemlock), the main 

body (Japanese cypress), a drain (bamboo) 

and the main body (Japanese cypress) 

which is laced together with sakura bark 

strips. The 5-sun size is the perfect size for 

one to two people. 

Adachi Shigehisa Shoten steamer, ¥5,940 

TUMBLER FROM TSUBAME 

Nothing cools you off in summer like a 

frosty cold beverage, and what better 

way to keep it ice cold than in a copper 

tumbler? Copper is superior at keeping 

its contents’ temperature stable, keeping 

drinks cool for up to 15 minutes 

longer than conventional vessels made 

from glass. Skilled artisans hammer 

these wares out by hand, following 

a time old tradition that has lasted 

through the ages. On top of that, this 

company has won multiple awards 

for its modern designs as well as the 

longevity of its products. 

Shinkoudo Tumbler (350ml), ¥6,480 

CLUTCH BAG FROM 

TOKAMACHI 

Tokamachi is renowned nationwide for 

its textile industry, and especially for 

its kimono. To celebrate this tradition, 

this compact clutch is made with silk 

kimono fabric. Each bag is a one-of-akind 

individually made item, so designs 

using the same fabric will differ slightly. 

The simple floral design gives a modern 

touch to this traditional craft. 

Yufuan clutch bag, ¥7,201 

HAT FROM MURAKAMI 

Shinafu, or linden weaving, is an 

ancient craft that remains to this day. 

Usually made with the bark of Shinanoki 

(Japanese linden) or Obabodaiju, an 

indigenous tree species to Japan, fiber 

strips are weaved into home linens, 

storage bags and accessories. The 

process from harvest to usable strips 

of fiber is long and arduous, taking 

several months to complete. However, 

the inimitable nature of the supple and 

pliable bark, as well as how it feels good 

to the touch will guarantee this craft 

will continue. This hat is a prime example 

of the dedication of the artisans who 

practice this historic craft. 

Uestu Shinafu hat, ¥43,200 


Looking for a great place to eat, shop, sleep or play in Tokyo? Welcome to Weekender's 

roundup of recommended restaurants, hotels, stores, salons and more. Here, we share 

this month's editor's picks, but for the full lineup – as well as reader discounts and 

special offers – simply head to www.tokyoweekender.com/the-concierge 

Elana Jade Club 360 

In need of some summer pampering? Elana Jade offers a range 

of deluxe beauty treatments that will have you looking beautiful 

from head to toe. All products used in our organic skincare 

lines are delivered by internationally trained and experienced 

therapists. Special offer: Add a 30-minute massage to one of our 

60-minute facials for free (value ¥5,000), valid until August 31. 

Club 360 is Tokyo’s premier fitness and rehabilitation 

center, offering personal training, physiotherapy, sports 

massage, exercise classes, boxing and various classes for 

children. Programs are tailored to suit you, and all trainers 

are highly qualified. Special offer: Get in shape this summer 

– mention Tokyo Weekender and get your first personal training 

session for only ¥5,400. 

HEALTH, BEAUTY & FITNESS | EDITORS CHOICE HOTELS ABOUT TOWN | EDITORS | EDITORS CHOICE CHOICE 

www.elanajade.com 

03-6453-9319 

4F NS Azabu Juban Building, 3-6-2 Azabu Juban, Minato-ku 

www.club360.jp 

03-6434-9667 

B1 Cma3 Building, 3-1-35 Motoazabu, Minato-ku 

Owl Café Search 

Japan is famed for its wide 

variety of animal cafés, with 

owl cafés being one of the 

latest to join the lineup. This 

new website provides all the infor- 

HEALTH, BEAUTY & FITNESS | EDITORS CHOICE 

mation you need on where to find 

one of these feathery creatures to pet 

while sipping on a cuppa. Launching 

their English site this month, Owl 

Café Search lets you search by area, 

and includes details such as price, 

opening hours, and contact info for 

each café listed. 

www.owlcafe-search.com 


ONE PERFECT DAY 

If all you need to be happy is sun, sea and (white) sand, then we've got three beach 

destinations in Japan that will make this your most contented summer yet. 

Plus: what it's like to be a rickshaw driver, and who is the greatest Japanese person ever?

SEEKING 

WHITE 

SAND 

Words and photos by Annemarie Luck 

Craving an island escape? Here are three 

destinations in Japan that should be on the 

list of “Asia’s best beaches” 

Japan is not revered for its beaches. A quick Google search for 

“best beaches in Asia” will testify to this. And a not-so-quick 

train journey to Zushi will only emphasize the point – at least, 

if white sand and turquoise ocean is what you’re after. Yet after 

a few vacations spent hunting down that dream island beach 

experience (I’ve tried Thailand, Malaysia, Vietnam and the Philippines), I 

surprisingly ended up finding it right here in Japan. From one utopian day 

on Okinawa’s Tokashiki Island to one Golden Week on the Izu Peninsula, 

here are my three favorite beach escapes in Japan. 

TOKASHIKI ISLAND 

When the ferry from Naha dropped us off at the island’s port, the sky was 

overcast and I began to wonder if the decision to visit Okinawa out of season 

was such a wise one after all. On the plus side, we told ourselves, there were 

hardly any fellow tourists so we would have the beaches to ourselves – even 

if it rained. The hotel shuttle bus whisked us through winding, hilly roads 

and lush vegetation, past grazing goats and a spectacular bird’s-eye view of

IF YOU GET 

STUCK IN 

NAHA… 

There’s plenty a tale of 

typhoons causing the ferry 

to be delayed or cancelled. 

Here’s how to keep yourself 

busy if you can’t leave Naha’s 

Tomari Port 

VISIT SHURI 

CASTLE 

Although this UNE- 

SCO World Heritage 

Site was destroyed 

during the Battle of 

Okinawa in 1945, it was restored in 1992 

and now serves as a symbol of the once 

prosperous Ryukyu Kingdom. 

oki-park.jp/shurijo/en 

AND THEN, AS IF IT WERE JUST DYING TO 

SHOW OFF A BIT, THE SUN CAME OUT 

DINE AT 

ASHIBIUNA 

Near to Shuri 

Castle, this is a traditional 

Okinawan 

restaurant. For 

under ¥1,000 you can enjoy soba served 

with rice, pickles, fruit, and mozuku 

seaweed. ashibiuna.ryoji.okinawa 

Tokashiku Beach, before depositing 

us outside our pension hotel. Reef Inn 

Kuniyoshi is just a few minutes’ walk 

from Aharen Beach, which curves 

protectively around a coral reef, and 

leads to a 360-degree view point on one 

end of its 800m stretch. Not wanting to 

waste any time (we had only booked two 

nights), we headed straight for the sea. 

And then, as if it were just dying to show 

off a bit, the sun came out. 

It stayed out, too, for the whole 

of the next day. We rented a kayak in 

the morning and pinched ourselves 

regularly as we rowed through water 

the color of amazonite. It was so clear 

that we could see, in perfect detail and 

without a snorkel set, the rainbow-colored 

fish swimming between our legs. 

After lunch, we rented a car and drove 

around the entire island (it’s only 

15km², mind you, so you could probably 

get away with exploring by bicycle 

if you aren’t concerned about uphills). 

We stopped off for a swim at Tokashiku 

Beach, which was deserted except for 

one other pair who were lucky enough 

to spot a sea turtle shortly before we arrived. 

And later, our one perfect day on 

Tokashiki Island came to a close with a 

sky painted in pastels. 

By the time we departed the 

following morning, we felt like part of 

the family at the pension, we were on 

a first-name basis with the 12 cats and 

their owner who reside next door, and 

I knew, with utter certainty, that I had 

at last found my holy grail of islands. 

SHOP AT 

TSUBOYA POT- 

TERY VILLAGE 

If there’s one 

souvenir you must 

buy, it’s a shisa 

statue. Pick up a pair of these “lion-dogs” 

at Naha’s famous Tsuboya Pottery Village, 

which boasts a wealth of shops selling 

expertly crafted pottery. 

STROLL DOWN 

KOKUSAI-DORI 

This fun main drag 

comes alive at 

night, with colorful 

taxis blaring music, 

and souvenir shops bursting at the seams. 

Do buy: sweet potato tarts. Don’t buy: one 

of the many cans of spam on offer.

SHIKINEJIMA 

Grab your tent and bicycle and head 

to Tokyo’s Takeshiba Pier on a Friday 

night for a spontaneous long weekend 

island getaway. The overnight ferry to 

Shikinejima departs at 11pm, and when 

you wake, your landscape will have 

transformed from concrete to jungle. 

Although it’s still administered by Tokyo, 

this tiny volcanic island is 160km 

south of the capital in the Philippine 

Sea, and is part of the Izu Seven island 

group. It’s only 3km by 2.5km, with a 

population of 600, but if you’re the sort 

who loves camping, barbecuing, snorkeling, 

kayaking, fishing, cycling, and 

perhaps dipping in a seaside onsen, 

you won’t get bored here. The beaches 

are small and rocky, but this is all the 

better for tropical fish spotting. 

ESSENTIAL INFO 

• The ferry needs to be booked in 

advance and costs around ¥7,000 one 

way. If you’re pressed for time and 

don’t mind paying a little extra, you 

can opt for the high-speed jet ferry 

instead. More information at 

www.tokaikisen.co.jp/english 

• There are two free campsites: Oura 

is open during Golden Week and 

summer, while Kamanoshita is 

available for off-season campers. 

SHIMODA 

A little closer to home, the 

white sands of Shimoda on the 

Izu Peninsula can be reached 

in just 2.5 hours from Tokyo. 

The charming little town is 

surrounded by forested mountains, 

and its jagged coastline 

is dotted with so many beaches 

that you’ll most likely need to 

return more than once to see 

them all. From Izukyu-Shimoda 

Station, the main and most 

popular beach, Shirahama, 

lies to the left. Head in the 

opposite direction and you’ll 

be mingling with the surfers 

on Tatadohama Beach, and the 

most laid-back of locals on Kisami 

Ohama Beach. Best way to 

get around? Catch local buses 

or rent a bicycle – nothing is 

really too far away. 

WHERE TO STAY 

• Retreat Wabi-Sabi offers a taste of 

traditional Japanese living (think 

old-style house and futon bedding) 

but with modern touches including a 

beautifully kitted out, shared kitchen. 

wabisabishimoda.com 

• With its white and blue color 

scheme, White Beach Hotel will give 

you that breezy Mediterranean feel. 

It has an onsite restaurant and offers 

a variety of outdoor activities. 

whitebeach-shimoda.com

That Outdoor 

Izakaya Feeling 

STREET-PUB DINING IS THE BEST WAY TO ENJOY TOKYO’S 

BALMY SUMMER NIGHTS. SKIP THE CROWDS AND CREATE 

YOUR VERY OWN BALCONY IZAKAYA DINNER WITH 

THESE FOUR SIMPLE TRADITIONAL RECIPES 

Words by Aleksander Szojer and Anna Jassem, 

photos by Wiktor Staniecki 

Crunchy Vegetables 

with Miso Dip 

This dip is a quick way to turn fresh summer 

vegetables into a lovely snack that will surprise 

your summer barbecue guests. It is a versatile 

condiment for numerous other dishes too. 

Ingredients 

• 100g miso (ideally with grains of rice or barley) 

• 1 tbsp sugar 

• 1 tbsp sake 

• 2 tbsp mirin 

• Vegetables: a selection of crispy fresh vegetables 

such as cucumber, carrot, radish, and celery, cut 

into sticks. 

Method 

1. Heat the pan and add sugar, sake, mirin and 

miso. Simmer for a few minutes, stirring constantly 

with a spatula, to make a thick dip. 

2. Let the mixture cool down, then serve together 

with the vegetables. 

3. Any leftovers can be put in a plastic container 

and preserved for up to a month in the fridge. 

A hint: 

The dip can also be used in many other ways: 

• Miso yaki: a marinade for fish or pork. Spread 

the dip onto the fish or pork, let marinate for a 

couple of hours and grill. 

• Miso dare: a base for stir fried vegetables and 

meat. Simply add a bit more sake to make the 

dip smooth and use it in a stir fry. 

• Miso mayo: mix the dip with mayonnaise (ratio 

1:3) and serve with any crispy vegetables. 

Recipe courtesy of Atsuko Ikeda, founder of Atsuko’s 

Kitchen Japanese cooking classes in London 


Sunomono Salad with 

Cucumber and Wakame 

Sunomono (literally “vinegary dish”) is a very popular side 

dish in Japan. Its clean and refreshing flavor makes it a 

perfect side dish with summer grills. It’s oil free so you 

don’t need to worry about calories, and you get all the 

nutritional goodness from the wakame seaweed, which is 

packed with vitamins and minerals from the sea. 

Sunomono 

Salad 

Ingredients (serves 4): 

• 300g cucumber 

• 10g dried wakame seaweed 

• 2 tbsp salt 

• 4 tbsp rice vinegar 


• 2 tbsp parched white sesame 

Method 

1. Soak the dried wakame seaweed in a bowl of cold water 

until it softens, for about 10 minutes. Drain and squeeze 

out excess water. 

2. Cut the cucumbers in half lengthwise and slice thinly. 

Place the cucumber slices in a bowl, sprinkle with salt 

and massage gently. Set aside for a few minutes. Wash 

out the salt and squeeze out excess water. 

3. Place the vinegar and the sugar in a bowl. Mix well 

until the sugar is dissolved. Add the wakame, cucumber 

and sesame. Mix well and serve. 

Recipe courtesy of food writer Yukari Elliott 

Ikayaki 

Ikayaki 

Ikayaki – grilled squid in 

sweet sauce – is another summer 

street dish that you can 

easily recreate at home. In the 

original version, the squid is 

grilled whole, with only diagonal 

cuts in the flesh, but it’s 

easier to eat if cut into rings. 

Ingredients (serves 4): 

• 500g of fresh or frozen squid 

• 1 tbsp sake or white wine 

• 2 tbsp of vegetable oil for 

frying 

Marinade: 

• 2 tbsp soy sauce 

• 1 tbsp sake 


• 1 tbsp mirin 

• ½ tsp grated ginger 

• ½ tsp grated garlic 

For serving: 

• Mayonnaise 

• Shichimi (seven spices) 

Method 

1. If you are using a whole 

squid, clean it, discarding 

entrails, head and the purplish 

outside membrane. 

Keep the squid body and 

tentacles, and rinse under 

running water. Cut the body 

into even, approx. 1cm 

rings and the tentacles into 

bite-size pieces. If you are 

using frozen squid tubes or 

rings, defrost them first. 

2. Mix all the marinade ingredients 

and marinate the 

squid for approx. 10 min. 

Rub off the marinade and 

save for later. 

3. Heat oil in a pan at medium 

heat. Add the squid 

and stir-fry until golden 

(approx. 2 minutes), stirring 

often. 

4. Lower the heat, add sake, 

cover the pan and let the 

squid steam on low heat for 

a further 2 minutes. 

5. Once the squid is cooked 

through, add the marinade 

and cook, stirring constantly, 

until it starts to thicken 

(approx. 2 minutes). 

6. Serve immediately. 

A hint: 

Be careful not to over-cook 

the squid or it will become 

rubbery. 

Recipe courtesy of Kohei Yagi

Yakitori 

Yakitori 

No summer festivity would be complete without 

yakitori, which is cooked on skewers with a sweet 

tare sauce or simply with salt (shio). With this 

simple recipe, you will be able make sweet yakitori 

even without setting up your barbeque. 

Ingredients (for 6 skewers) 

• 200g chicken thighs – without bones 

• 1 leek (white part only) 

• Wooden/ bamboo skewers 

Sauce: 

• 100ml soy sauce 

• 50ml mirin 

• 1 tbsp sake or white wine 

• 1 tbsp brown sugar 

• 1 small garlic clove, crushed 

Method 

1. Soak skewers in water for at least 10 minutes, so 

that they don’t burn during grilling. 

2. Cut chicken into roughly 3cm x 3cm pieces. 

3. Cut leek into approximately 1cm slices. 

4. Thread the chicken and leek pieces alternately on 

the skewers. 

5. Mix and heat all the sauce ingredients. Remove 

from heat once boiling. 

6. Grill the chicken for 6-8 minutes on each side, 

either on a grill or in a grill pan. 

7. When both sides are grilled until brown, brush 

the skewers with the sauce and grill for a further 

1-2 min (don’t grill for too long because the meat 

will get tough). 

8. Serve immediately. 

Recipe courtesy of Kohei Yagi, Japanese food consultant and author of a Polish blog on Japanese cooking 

These recipes come 

from Anna Jassem and 

Aleksander Szojer’s 

upcoming book on 

Japanese seasonal foods 

and traditions

UNIQUE 

SUMMER 

CRUISES 

IN TOKYO 

Words by Lisa Wallin 

Free your mind from the hustle and 

bustle of the city by setting sail on 

Tokyo’s waterways 

Tokyo has a long history of waterfront entertainment 

and offers a plethora of options 

where conversation and drinks flow. We’ve 

rounded up some of our favorites to help you 

find what kind of tour floats your boat. 

1. ENTERTAINMENT EXTRAVAGANZA: SAMURAI 

SHIP GOZABUNE ATAKEMARU 

The Gozabune Atakemaru is a replica of a ship commissioned 

by Iemitsu Tokugawa in 1632. Both the original 

and its replica display an air of opulence and comfort, 

but while Tokugawa’s pleasure boat was also used for 

war, the modern day version is simply for fun. The ship 

offers a great view of Tokyo Bay at night along with a 

dinner show featuring performers from the famous 

Shiki theater company. The stage show is interactive, 

creating a fun and lively atmosphere for all ages. 

www.samuraiship.tokyo 

2. AN EDO EDUCATION: RIVERBOAT MIZUHA 

Named for Mizuhanome, a water goddess, Mizuha is a 

charming little brown boat in a retro style. Owner Miho 

Sato is the ship’s guide and gives a unique insight into 

Tokyo and its history in impeccable English, while her 

husband steers the ship along its course. Sato’s in-depth 

knowledge coupled with her dry humor make the tours 

fun, fascinating and a great learning experience for even 

the most knowledgeable Tokyoite. The boat seats about 10 

people and is available for shared or chartered cruises. 

www.funaasobi-mizuha.jp/english 


3. GO YOUR OWN WAY: 

TOKYO WATER TAXI 

The idea for Tokyo Water Taxi 

came about after the Great Tohoku 

Earthquake, when the owners 

witnessed how hard it was for 

many to walk home through the 

crowded streets. By freeing up the 

waterways, it would be easier to 

effectively transport those who 

needed it most. In more peaceful 

times, visitors can charter the 

boat for a trip down the canals 

and rivers of Tokyo – and 

even out to Tokyo Bay. Guests 

can choose either their own 

custom route, or go with one 

recommended by the captain. 

Top tip: ask about stopping by 

a riverside bakery to pick up 

an extra treat on your trip. 

water-taxi.tokyo 

4. DINE LIKE A DAIMYO: 

TRADITIONAL YAKATABUNE 

For the ultimate traditional river 

experience, look no further than 

the classic yakatabune. These 

tatami-floored boats have been 

a part of Tokyo’s river culture 

for hundreds of years, reaching 

the height of their popularity 

in the Edo period where they 

were used for cherry blossom 

viewing parties and private 

haiku readings alike. The cruises 

offer great views of the Sumida 

River and Tokyo Bay, but it’s their 

epicurean efforts that are their 

true claim to fame. Dinners are 

extravagant offerings of sashimi, 

tempura and other seasonal 

delights, with some boats 

cooking everything on board. 

www.yakatabune-kumiai.jp/en 

5. KINETIC KRAFTWERK: 

KOJO YAKEI TOURS 

Head out of Tokyo down to harbor 

cities Kawasaki and Yokohama 

and you’ll find a cruise that’ll 

take you to another world. Kojo 

yakei tours (literally “factory night 

view” tours) give visitors an exciting 

insight into industrial areas 

traditionally thought of as eyesores, 

now appreciated for their 

aesthetics. Drift past smokestacks 

churning out steam, illuminated 

by colossal industrial plants as 

they churn away through the 

night. These tours are especially 

recommended for photographers 

looking to capture beauty in unexpected 

environments. 

www.tabione.com/en/factory_cruise 


A DAY IN THE 

LIFE OF A 

RICKSHAW 

DRIVER 

WE CHAT WITH A VETERAN 

SHAFU ABOUT THE BEST, 

WORST – AND WEIRDEST – 

PARTS OF THE JOB 

Words and photos by Lisa Wallin 


The rickshaw driver: a common 

sight around Asakusa and yet what 

do we know about them, other than 

they seem really fit? To learn more, 

we spent a morning with Reiji 

Kimura, who’s a veteran shafu (rickshaw 

driver) by day, and a metal band drummer 

by night. 

WHAT DOES A TYPICAL 

DAY LOOK LIKE? 

It depends on the company you work for, 

but I can set my own schedule. I try to start 

as early as I can, especially on weekends and 

holidays as it increases the chance of getting 

more customers. If I go out drinking the 

night before I may start later the following 

day. [Laughs] Basically, if I’ve earned enough 

to reach my goal for the day, I head home. 

Sometimes it only takes two hours of work 

in the morning and I’m done! On an average 

day, though, I’d say I take up to three to four 

rides, with the most in one day being 10. On 

bad days, though, I’ll only get one ride the 

whole day. The worst-case scenario – which 

has happened once – I’ve gone home with 

no rides and nothing to show for it. That was 

the worst. 

WHY DID YOU CHOOSE THIS JOB? 

I can schedule my work to fit around my personal 

life. If I decide to take a random Wednesday 

off to hang out with a friend, I can. I’ll lose 

out on any potential earnings that day, but I 

can usually make it up on a weekend. Since 

I’m in a band, it’s important for me to have 

a job that’s flexible, and this way I can make 

more than I would with a normal full-time or 

part-time job. I also get a great workout. I’d say 

I run about 20km on busy days, and about 10 

to 12km on quieter days. 

HOW DO YOU BECOME A 

RICKSHAW DRIVER? 

The application process differs depending 

on the company, but our 

boss will generally let 

anyone who seems genuinely 

interested give it 

a try. Fast learners can 

pick it up in a couple 

of weeks, while others 

take a couple of months. 

The training period is 

very rigorous, though. 

Because we drive on 

public roads it’s imperative 

that the training 

reflects the weight of 

that responsibility. Our 

boss usually vets potential 

drivers himself and 

is very particular about 

safe driving. We have 

a strict policy to stop 

guiding when we can’t 

guarantee the safety of 

our passengers. There 

are a lot of things to 

consider: the size of the 

rickshaw, how easily 

we can maneuver it in traffic – in many 

ways, it’s a lot like driving a car. But, thanks 

to our strict system, our company has had 

zero accidents to date. 

I WAS TOLD BY SOME 

YOUNG WOMEN THAT 

THEY WANTED TO RIDE 

WITH A GOOD-LOOKING 

GUY AND NOT ME 

REIJI’S RICKSHAW TOUR 

MOST POPULAR ROUTE 

"The Shitamachi route: I take customers 

around and explain about historical 

Showa and Edo period buildings that 

still stand in the area for a full-on retro 

experience." 

FAVORITE SPOT IN ASAKUSA 

"Matsuchiya Shoden. It’s one of Sensoji’s 

constituent temples, but is kind of far 

away from the main temple area, next 

to Sumida Park by the river. The temple 

itself is beautiful and it’s a well-known 

power spot. It’s been portrayed a lot in 

ukiyo-e during the Edo period." 

BOOK A RIDE 

Reiji works for Hidaya, which has 10 drivers, 

three of whom speak good English. 

To book a driver for a ride or event, send 

a tweet to @Asakusahidaya on Twitter. 

Or book directly via Reiji at reiji_k1323@ 

yahoo.co.jp 

WHAT’S THE MOST IMPORTANT 

ASPECT OF BEING A RICKSHAW 

DRIVER? 

Apart from the dedication to the safety of our 

passengers, I think it’s good to have an open 

and friendly personality. I was told once by 

some young women that they wanted to ride 

with a good-looking guy and not me. That 

hurt! [Laughs] You can attract customers with 

a pretty face, but it’s important to make sure 

the customer has a great time. A rickshaw 

ride isn’t just a ride around the area – we give 

full tours with little-known informational tidbits 

about the area and try to create a dialog 

with our clients. By conversing, I can find out 

a client’s interests and tailor the tour to those. 

I’ve taken a few people to what is now their 

favorite gelato shop, for example. 

WHAT’S HARDEST ABOUT 

THE JOB? 

Being dependent on weather conditions. On 

hot summer days, I can down about 2.5 liters 

of tea and water in just a couple of hours. In 

winter, it gets so cold! Our busiest seasons are 

Golden Week and the New Year’s holidays, 

when people travel the most. The New Year 

is especially busy, as people come to Asakusa 

from all over the country throughout January 

to start their year with a temple visit at Sensoji. 

On those days I’m driving all day, from 

morning until night. 

WHAT’S THE BEST PART 

OF THE JOB? 

I love meeting new people every day. People 

come to Asakusa from all over the world. 

Most of my customers are Japanese, but I 

have a lot of Korean and Chinese customers 

as well. Then there are of course many 

people from the US, Europe, and Australia as 

well. I get to practice my English, too. I start 

off a bit rusty, but by the end of the day I feel 

pretty fluent! 

WHAT’S THE WEIRDEST THING 

YOU’VE EVER EXPERIENCED 

WORKING? 

I drove one person on four separate occasions 

in the same day. He really got into the 

area and asked me to take him somewhere. 

He’d wander off and explore, or eat, then I’d 

run into him again and he’d ask me to take 

him somewhere else. 


How “Asian Boss” 

is Exploding 

Cultural 

Stereotypes 

Words by Michael Lanigan. Illustrations by Bunny Bissoux 

Using the street interview 

style, Asian Boss YouTube 

channel founders Kei Ibaraki 

and Stephen Park quiz people 

on how they feel about topics 

as varied as North Korean 

defectors and Japan’s deathfrom-overwork 

syndrome. 

Here, they tell us about their 

successes, their challenges 

– and the art of getting 

Tokyoites to open up 

With what I’m doing, I don’t really 

have days off,” Kei Ibaraki 

says, while taking a break. It’s 

close to 10 at night. He’s been 

filming all day and is readying himself for 

an all-night editing session. Still, there’s 

no sense of being downtrodden. The eight 

hours of bed he is prepared to pass up will 

add to his ideas set to unfold over the next 

three months. 

It’s not necessarily a shock that he is 

upbeat. Positivity and YouTube content 

creators are synonymous. The main difference 

here is that Ibaraki keeps his personal 

happiness off the screen. Onscreen he’s 

an observer, an active listener who is shy 

on personal pronouns. A rare quality, it is 

part of his and co-founder Stephen Park’s 

appeal in how they run their social media 

company Asian Boss. “We just want it as 

neutral as possible,” he says. 

The pair has made themselves a 

successful brand by conducting street 

interviews across major cities 

in Japan and Korea, although 

recently they have veered 

towards in-depth one-on-ones 

and panel discussions, while 

also setting up operations 

in China and India. The 

formula is a simple one, but 

the product has proven illuminating, 

attracting more than 400,000 

subscribers on YouTube. Whereas most 

content creators who gain traction by 

opining on Asian societies tend towards 

sweeping overviews (“10 Things I Hate 

About Japan” or “How to Date Asian 

Women”), Ibaraki and Park tend towards 

more specified areas, exploring numerous 

“Asian trends or social issues, ones 

where I almost want to fix the problem.” 

“People gear towards us because 

they’re used to fragmented bullshit on TV. 

Younger generations don’t watch mainstream 

media. There, people just hear 

what they want to hear, but you need 

both sides of a story. It’s just a matter of 

listening, which gets rid of bigotry,” says 

Ibaraki. Of course, he is quick to note 

that this was never part of the original 

plan. They did not choose video for any 

specific purpose. “We just started doing it. 

Through trial and error of trying different 

platforms, we stumbled upon the street 

interview style.” That was almost four 

years ago. At the time, Ibaraki had been 

working in retail and eco-architecture. 

Park was working as a lawyer. “Fundamentally 

we just wanted to add value to 

people’s lives, so while working full-time, 

we did videos on weekends.” 

“Then, when we realized this was 

having an impact, things became serious. 

It wasn’t a clean cut though. I had to 

slowly reduce my retail hours until I 

could make ends meet.” Initially shooting 

in Australia, the earliest videos explored the 

various facets of dating, but soon thereafter 

they diversified, before relocating to Korea, 

where they still reside. From there, Ibaraki 

decided they should expand to Japan. 

Privacy, he notes, was the initial challenge 

here. “We get maybe eight interviews per topic. 

We just want to learn from other perspectives, 

end stereotypes and conflicts,” he adds. 

On Japanese streets, however, “asking random 

people about issues that need to be discussed 

… you might get auto-responses. In Australia, 

people are up for talking. You approach three 

people and you will get one piece of solid 

material.” At one point in Tokyo, he recalls 

being rejected by “38 people” in a row, while 

on average “it takes seven or eight people to 

get just one short response.” 

If anything, that idea of hiding one’s true 

self from the public has been the strength in 

the Japanese section. While recently the duo 

has amassed an enormous number of hits for 

their series on North Korean defectors, one 

of the subtler gems has been understanding 

public facades in Japanese society, which in 

turn perpetuate such negative cycles like sexism 

and homophobia. Polite, but gutsy, Ibaraki 

makes asking “why” an engaging spectacle 

when handed replies either too presumptive 

or general. Critical thinking is his core value. If 

somebody says something, why is it that they 

believe it to be so? “I mean, look, here’s the 

thing: where do stereotypes come from? They 

come from not knowing about something. So 

by getting people to talk you move towards 

building a greater understanding, you become 

inclusive.” 

Here, he reads off a message from a 

follower: “Because of you, I started learning 

English. I’m more proactive towards different 

nationalities. Thank you.” 

“Man”, he says with awe. “That’s amazing. 

You can have that impact. That gets me excited.” 

Watch the Asian Boss interviews at 

www.youtube.com/user/askasianboss 


What Do the People Say? 

Asian Boss is gathering a reputation not only for the interesting – and 

sometimes controversial – topics covered, but also for being able to 

encourage people to talk freely on the spot. Here are excerpts from four 

of their recent Japan-focused interviews… 

How Do the Japanese 

Feel About LGBT? 

“I do see a lot of gay 

people on TV shows, but 

I’ve never met anyone in 

person that said they were 

gay. I’m actually a student 

myself, but even at school, 

no one really talks about 

these issues.” 

Is the Japanese Education 

System Failing? 

Man: “You had to follow the rules no matter how you felt 

about it. For example, we couldn’t ever use mechanical 

pencils.” 

Kei: “Why?” 

Man: “I don’t know. Not even the teacher knew when I asked 

them, but we had to follow it, because it was the rule. That’s 

how even if we found a particular rule strange, we wouldn’t 

question it. That’s the type of people the system is creating.” 

“You mean it’s almost 

close to 1 out of 10 people 

[that are gay in Japanese 

society]? … We’ve only 

come this far as a species 

because we had both 

genders. If either one didn’t 

exist, we’d go extinct.” 

Why Japanese Die From 

Overwork (Karoshi) 

“Most companies take 

employees working 

overtime for granted. 

They equate working 

overtime with better 

job performance.” 

“In other countries, you might 

be judged on your actual job 

performance, but in Japan you 

are judged on how hard you 

‘appear’ to be working. That’s 

what you get evaluated on.” 

Are Japanese Girls 

Really Dumb? 

“Japanese women really want 

to get married, so by hiding 

their true reality [high salary, 

university education and so 

on], if that can help them get 

into a relationship, then that’s 

an option.” 

“I don’t know if dumb is the 

right way to express it. It might 

be just holding their opinions, 

not like trying to be silly or 

anything. Even that they know 

something, they might just 

pretend that they don’t know.” 


Who is the 

Greatest 

Japanese 

Person 

Ever? 

Words by Matthew Hernon 

WE ASKED 500 TOKYOITES TO NOMI- 

NATE THE DESERVING TITLE WINNER. 

HERE, WE COUNT DOWN THE TOP 25… 

KITANO 

One of Japan’s “big three” television 

25TAKESHI 

comedians, a critically acclaimed 

arthouse director and a highly respected actor, 

Takeshi Kitano (a.k.a. Beat Takeshi) says his “core 

activity is trying to avoid being pigeon-holed by 

the public.” He is also a sculptor, author, presenter, 

poet, and columnist. A former manzai artist 

who hosted the slapstick gameshow Takeshi’s 

Castle, Kitano is most well-known abroad for 

movies such as Hana-bi, Sonatine and Zatoichi. 

HIDEYOSHI 

Japan’s second great unifier, Toyotomi 

24TOYOTOMI 

was a skilled military leader who 

ruled the country from 1584 until his death in 

1598 (though, he wasn’t bestowed with the title 

of shogun because of his peasant class origins). 

During his reign, he financed the construction 

of numerous castles and temples, prohibited all 

non-samurai from bearing arms, restricted travel 

and famously ordered the crucifixion of many 

Christians, including the 26 Martyrs of Japan. 

MATSUSHITA 

Founder of the multinational 

23KONOSUKE 

electronics corporation Panasonic, 

Konosuke Matsushita was a self-made business tycoon 

who started out in a cramped two-room tenement 

a century ago. He had ¥100, three employees 

and just one product: an electric light socket. 

Today Panasonic is a global household name. In 

1979, the then 84-year-old launched the Matsushita 

Institute of Government and Management to 

train future politicians and businesspeople. 

KURANOSUKE 

On the night of December 14, 1702 

22OISHI 

(based on the old Japanese calendar), 

Oishi Kuranosuke led a group of 47 Ronin (masterless 

samurai) on a mission to exact revenge 

on a high-ranking official they held responsible 

for the death of their lord. The famous vendetta, 

which was said to have embodied “the essence of 

the samurai,” is often retold in plays, novels, films 

and other media. 

MISORA 

The undisputed queen of enka, Hibari 

21HIBARI 

Misora was a cultural icon whose music 

helped to give the public hope after WWII. She 

made her debut as an 11-year-old in 1948 and went 

on to record a total of 1,200 songs. Her final track 

"Kawa no Nagara yo ni" was voted the greatest 

Japanese song of all time in a poll by NHK. 

TADATAKA 

At the age of 55 Ino Tadataka, a 

20INO 

wealthy sake merchant, embarked 

on a 17-year surveying expedition of Japan. The 

esteemed cartographer reportedly spent 3,736 days 

making coastline and inland measurements (traveling 

approximately 34,913km). His magnum opus, 

a map of the entire coastline of Japan, remained 

unfinished at his death in 1818, but was completed 

by his surveying team three years later. 

IDEMITSU 

Founder of the petroleum company 

19SAZO 

Idemitsu Kosan, Sazo Idemitsu was a 

patriotic industrialist who wasn't afraid to take 

on what he called the "international oil cartel." 

His watershed moment came in 1953 when he sent 

a large tanker to purchase oil in Iran, which was 

under a British-led embargo. Paying 30 percent 

less than market prices, he was commended for his 

audaciousness.

HONDA 

An entrepreneurial giant, Soichiro 

18SOICHIRO 

Honda overcame many obstacles, 

including opposition from the government, to 

build one of the biggest automotive companies 

in the world. He was a maverick who went 

against the Ministry of International Trade and 

Industry (MITI) when they tried to ban new car 

makers in the country. The first Japanese firm 

to manufacture automobiles in America, Honda 

proved very popular overseas. 

MIURA 

Earlier this season 50-year-old 

17KAZUYOSHI 

Kazuyoshi Miura became the oldest 

competitive goal scorer in the history 

of professional football. The man known 

affectionately as “King Kazu” left school at the 

age of 15 so he could become a footballer in 

Brazil. He played for a number of clubs there 

including Pelé’s former side, Santos. He was 

also the first Japanese player to sign for an 

Italian club. 

SHOIN 

“To consider oneself different 

16YOSHIDA 

from ordinary men is wrong, but 

it’s right to hope that one will not remain like 

ordinary men.” A distinguished samurai of 

great intellect, Yoshida Shoin was anything 

but ordinary. Many of the students at his iconic 

private school Shoka Sonjuku – including 

heroic figure Takasugi Shinsaku and Japan’s 

first prime minister Ito Hirobumi – played 

instrumental roles in the Meiji Restoration. 

MICHIKO 

Eldest daughter of a wealthy flour 

15EMPRESS 

miller, Michiko Shoda became the 

first commoner to marry into the imperial 

family when she wed Crown Prince Akihito 

in January 1959. She was reportedly ill-treated 

by mother-in-law Empress Nagako and her 

courtiers, and was rumored to have suffered 

a nervous breakdown because of the stress. 

Seen as a dutiful wife and loving mother, she 

has earned the respect of the Japanese people. 

TEZUKA 

Dubbed the “god of manga” and 

14OSAMU 

“father of anime,” Osamu Tezuka 

was a phenomenal artist and storyteller who 

created more than 700 volumes of work, 

including Black Jack, Kimba the White Lion 

and, most famously, Astro Boy. The man who 

introduced big-eyed characters to manga 

was also qualified to practice medicine. In 

1965, he turned down an offer from Stanley 

Kubrick to be his art director for 2001: A 

Space Odyssey. 

AKIHITO 

Known as “the people’s emperor,” 

Akihito has, for the past three 

13EMPEROR 

decades, tried to modernize the imperial 

family, bringing them closer to the public. Not 

afraid to upset nationalists, he has regularly 

expressed his remorse for Japan’s actions during 

WWII, acknowledged his ancestors’ Korean 

roots and in 1992 became the first Japanese 

monarch to visit mainland China. He’s recently 

been given permission to abdicate the throne. 

SHIRASU 

A principled man who loved his 

12JIRO 

country, Jiro Shirasu earned 

the respect of a nation in December 1945. 

Commissioned to deliver a Christmas present 

from Emperor Hirohito to General Douglas 

MacArthur, he was told to put it on the 

floor by the latter. Shirasu reprimanded the 

general for his lack of respect and demanded 

he put it on a table. MacArthur wasn’t used to 

being spoken to like that, but duly obliged. 

FUKUZAWA 

Founder of the newspaper Jiji 

11YUKICHI 

Shinpo and Keio University (Japan’s 

first private university), Yukichi Fukuzawa 

was a progressive thinker who challenged 

the notion that all people had a fixed role in a 

hierarchical society. He encouraged people to 

think for themselves through his philosophy 

of dokuritsu-jison (independence and selfrespect), 

which was a revolutionary concept at 

the time. He is the face of the ¥10,000 note. 

KUROSAWA 

Described by Steven Spielberg 

10AKIRA 

as “the pictorial Shakespeare of 

our time,” Akira Kurosawa was the one of 

the most influential directors of the 20th 

century. George Lucas borrowed ideas from 

his 1958 classic Hidden Forest for Star Wars, 

while The Magnificent Seven and A Fistful of 

Dollars were effectively remakes of Seven 

Samurai and Yojimbo. “Let me say it simply,” 

said Martin Scorsese, “Kurosawa was my 

master.” 

9EMPEROR HIROHITO 

Japan’s longest reigning monarch, 

Emperor Hirohito presided over the 

most tumultuous period in modern Japanese 

history. For some historians, he was an active 

war leader who escaped justice after WWII, 

while others viewed him as a powerless figurehead 

who warned that the attack on Pearl 

Harbor would be “self-destructive.” After 

the war Hirohito renounced his divinity and 

helped to rebuild Japan’s diplomatic image 

abroad. 

8PRINCE SHOTOKU 

Regarded as “the father of Japanese 

Buddhism,” Shōtoku Taishi was appointed 

regent by his aunt, Empress Suiko in 

593. Influenced by Confucian principles he reportedly 

authored the 17-article constitution, 

established a centralized government, opened 

relations with China, and was allegedly the 

first person to coin the name Nihon. Some 

scholars, including Chubu University professor 

Oyama Seiichi, have expressed doubt with 

regards to the prince’s historicity. 

7HAYAO MIYAZAKI 

Director of some of the most imaginative 

animated films ever made, Hayao 

Miyazki has a godlike status in Japan. His 

most popular smash hits include Howl’s 

Moving Castle, Princess Mononoke, Ponyo and 

Spirited Away – the highest grossing movie 

in Japanese history. It won an Oscar for Best 

Animated feature in 2002, but the co-founder 

of Studio Ghibli didn’t turn up to receive the 

award in protest o 

the war in Iraq. 

6ODA NOBUNAGA 

Viewed as both a hero and villain, Oda 

Nobunaga was so ruthless he had his 

maid executed after she left a stem of fruit 

on his floor. The first of Japan’s great three 

unifiers, Nobunaga was the man that laid 

the foundations for Toyotomi Hideyoshi and 

Tokugawa Ieyasu. Known as the “Demon 

Daimyo,” he managed to consolidate the majority 

of what had been a fractured country. 


5TOKUGAWA IEYASU 

A patient and shrewd general who 

waited for the right time to take control, 

Ieyasu was the founder of the Tokugawa 

Shogunate, a dynasty that ruled Japan for 

more than 250 years. 

Along with Oda Nobunaga and Toyotomi 

Hideyoshi, Ieyasu was one of the three great 

leaders who helped to unify the country towards 

the end of the Sengoku (Warring States) 

period. A master tactician on the battlefield 

and calculating off it, he was careful when it 

came to forming and changing allegiances. 

He remained loyal to Nobunaga and even 

ordered the execution of his own wife and son 

(by forced seppuku) when they were accused 

of conspiring against the ruthless warrior. 

Five years after Nobunaga was killed, 

Ieyasu joined forces wih Hideyoshi, who sent 

him to govern lands in East Japan. Following 

Hideyoshi's death, civil war broke out and 

in 1600 Ieyasu’s troops defeated the Western 

army at the Battle of Sekigahara. Three years 

later he received the title of shogun and then 

consolidated his power at the Siege of Osaka 

in 1615, eliminating the remnants of the 

Toyotomi clan. 

4ICHIRO SUZUKI 

A baseball legend 

who’s usually referred 

to mononymously, 

Ichiro is arguably Japan’s 

greatest ever sporting 

export. 

Playing for Miami Marlins 

in July, the 43-yearold 

outfielder surpassed 

Panamanian “batting 

champion” Rod Carew 

as the record-holder for 

hits by a foreigner in the 

Major League. Remarkably, 

he only made his 

MLB debut at the age 

of 27. Before moving to 

America, Ichiro played for Orix Blue Wave in 

Japan where he recorded 1,278 hits in nine 

seasons. Combining his totals from the two 

countries he’s had more hits than any player 

in the history of top-tier baseball. 

In 2001, he signed for the Seattle Mariners, 

where he was handed the 51 jersey 

previously worn by Randy Johnson. Ichiro 

sent the legendary pitcher a letter promising 

not to bring shame to the number. He needn’t 

have worried. The Japanese star became the 

first player to achieve 10 consecutive 200-hit 

seasons and won 10 Golden Glove awards 

over the same period. He’s broken too many 

records to mention and plans to continue 

playing until he’s 50. 

3DR. HIDEYO NOGUCHI 

The face of the ¥1,000 note, Dr. Hideyo 

Noguchi was a renowned bacteriologist 

who dedicated his life to medical research. 

As a toddler Noguchi burned his left hand, 

resulting in his fingers being fused together. 

He passed his medical exams at the age of 20, 

but struggled to find work in Japan due to his 

disability. At the start of the 20th century he 

moved to America where he was nicknamed 

“the human dynamo.” In 1911 Noguchi was 

accused of unethical human experimentation, 

having allegedly injected children with 

a syphilis extract, lutein, while trying to 

develop a skin test for syphilis. 

His most significant scientific contribution 

came in 1913 when he demonstrated 

the presence of the bacterium Treponema 

pallidum – the causative agent of syphilis – in 

the brain of a progressive paralysis patient, 

proving it was the cause of the disease. 

Much of Noguchi’s later research was 

discredited, however, including his claim 

that yellow fever was caused by spirochete 

bacteria. He had seemingly confused yellow 

fever with leptospirosis. 

He died of the former while working 

in Accra, Gold Coast (modern-day Ghana) 

aged 51. 

2 

SAKAMOTO RYOMA 

“Although I was born a mere 

potato digger in Tosa, a nobody, I’m 

destined to bring about big changes in the 

nation,” wrote the legendary samurai in 

one of many letters he sent to his sister. 

True to his word, Sakamoto Ryoma was a 

key player in the movement to overthrow 

Japan’s last military feudal government: 

the Tokugawa Shogunate. In 1862, he 

illegally abandoned his home domain in 

Tosa and headed to Edo where he met 

Katsu Kaishu, a high-ranking official, who 

Sakamoto had originally planned to assassinate. 

Katsu convinced him they would 

be better off working together to develop a 

long-term plan to increase Japan’s military 

strength. 

Sakamoto remarkably managed to 

broker a peace deal between the warring 

provinces of Satsuma (Kagoshima Prefecture) 

and Choshu (Yamaguchi Prefecture) 

to help them conquer the Shogunate. 

Along with Katsu, he also modernized the 

navy and established Japan’s first modern 

company known as Kaientai, which 

was initially used to transport guns for 

revolutionaries. Sakamoto was murdered 

in Kyoto in 1867. The identity of his killer 

remains a mystery. 


AND THE GREATEST 

JAPANESE PERSON 

EVER IS... 

On July 18, 1940, a crowd of 

Jewish refugees gathered 

outside the Japanese consulate 

building in Kaunas, Lithuania. 

With Nazi Germany rapidly 

advancing east, their only hope of survival 

it seemed was to obtain a transit visa for Japan. 

Acting consul from the Netherlands Jan 

Zwartendijk had issued them with permits 

for Curaçao, a Dutch colonial territory in the 

West Indies where visas weren’t required. 

To get through the Soviet Union, however, 

they required transit visas for a third country. 

That’s where Chiune Sugihara came in. 

Aside from Zwartendijk, he was the only 

remaining foreign consul in the city. Though 

sympathetic to their cause, Sugihara first 

wanted to get approval from the Japanese 

foreign ministry before issuing any visas. 

Three times he wired a request; three times 

he was refused. 

With the situation becoming more 

desperate, Sugihara decided to ignore his 

government and take matters into his own 

hands. Despite knowing that his career and 

life were at stake, he worked 18 to 20 hours 

a day issuing more than 2,000 visas, many 

of which included dependents. It’s estimated 

that between 6,000 and 10,000 people 

escaped because of his selflessness. The 

Photos courtesy of Nobuki Sugihara 

Chiune Sugihara 

A man who defied the Japanese government and risked his 

career to save the lives of thousands of Jewish people (mainly 

from Poland) who were living in Lithuania during WWII. 

MY FATHER JUST DID 

WHAT HE FELT WAS RIGHT 

EVEN IF THERE WERE 

REPERCUSSIONS 

Japanese foreign office asked Sugihara 

to resign in 1947. 

“My father just did 

what he felt was right 

even if there were repercussions,” 

says Sugihara’s 

youngest and only surviving 

son, Nobuki Sugihara. 

“He would never think of 

himself as a hero and rarely 

talked about what he did 

in Kaunas. I knew nothing 

about it until I was 19. He got 

a call from the Israeli embassy 

in Japan and we went 

there together. Commercial 

attaché Jehoshua Nishri, 

whose family had been saved 

by a visa [my father] issued, 

managed to track him down after trying unsuccessfully 

through the ministry of foreign 

affairs numerous times. Nishri informed us 

that many others had escaped. My father 

never really displayed his emotions, but that 

was pleasing for him to hear because he had 

no idea what had happened to them.” 

For decades, little was known about 

Sugihara. Things started to change in the 

years leading up to his death, and in 1985, a 

year before his passing, he was recognized 

in Israel as Righteous Among the Nations, 

a title given to non-Jews who showed great 

courage during the Holocaust to help keep 

Jewish people alive. Interest in the former 

diplomat has continued to grow since. 

He's had streets, museums and an asteroid 

named in his honor. Numerous books, 

documentaries and films have been written 

about him, including the 2015 movie Persona 

Non Grata. 

“It’s good that people know about what 

he did and I believe his story will be included 

in Japanese textbooks, but I’m concerned 

the truth is being distorted,” Nobuki tells us. 

“I’ve listened to his recordings and he doesn’t 

mention throwing visas from a train, which 

was written in a biography and has been 

repeated many times. It’s often been said that 

he was born in Yaotsu when in fact his birthplace 

was Mino City. I feel the movie has lots 

of inaccuracies too, and Toshiaki Karasawa’s 

character was nothing like my father. Also, 

the female Russian spy didn’t exist.” 

Persona Non Grata director Cellin Gluck, 

a man of Japanese and Jewish descent, defended 

the film to Weekender. “Every story 

needs a certain amount of romance,” he 

says. “The character of Irina is based on an 

actual person but since she didn’t come back 

into his life in Kaunas, we decided to fictionalize 

her. We took great care to portray 

Chiune Sugihara as a man of compassion 

and intelligence who did what he did guided 

by his own moral compass.” 

“We did all we could to honor Mr. Sugihara 

without turning him into a cartoon superhero, 

which would have been unacceptable. 

It’s an important story about an individual 

who did what he believed was right regardless 

of the consequences. I hope people that 

watch it can feel that one person, no matter 

the odds, can truly make a difference.” 



Giuseppe Arcimboldo, Spring, 1563, oil on oak wood, Madrid, 

Museo de la Real Academia de Bellas Artes de San Fernando 

COMING UP ROSES 

Whether you believe Giuseppe Arcimboldo's imaginative paintings to be a sign of mental 

instability or a whimsical spirit, they're enough to keep you inspired all month long... 

TOKYO WEEKENDER | | DECEMBER | AUGUST | MARCH 2017 2016 | | 37

ART & ILLUMINATIONS 

YOKOHAMA TRIENNALE 2017: ISLANDS, CONSTELLATIONS & GALAPAGOS 

For the Yokohama Triennale’s sixth edition, curators have gathered together the work of more than 40 artists, whose pieces explore 

themes of isolation and connectivity, imagination and guidance, and distinctness and diversity. Among large scale works that turn art museums 

themselves into artistic canvases and more intimate pieces that invite museumgoers to reflect quietly on the Triennale’s themes, 

museumgoers will find surprises, challenging images, and plenty of aesthetic food for thought. Yokohama Museum of Art, Yokohama 

Red Brick Warehouse No. 1, Yokohama Port Opening Memorial Hall Until November 5 www.yokohamatriennale.jp/english 

Mr., Tokyo the City I Know, at Dusk: It’s Like a Hollow in My Heart, ©2016 Mr./Kaikai Kiki 

Co. Ltd. All Rights Reserved. Courtesy Perrotin 

THE ART WORLD 

OUR PICK OF THE CITY’S BEST EXHIBITIONS 

Compiled by Alec Jordan 

Numen/For Use, “Tape Tokyo 02” (Photo: Keizo Kioku) 

GRAND PROJECTS: HOW FAR 

WILL YOU GO? 

For their piece, Floating Piers, Christo 

and Jeanne-Claude used 220,000 

polyethylene cubes and some 100,000 

square meters of yellow fabric in order 

to allow 1.2 million people to walk 

on the waters of Lake Iseo in Italy over 

the course of a few weeks. This is just 

one example of the lengths to which 

artists will go when they are bringing 

their most extravagant creations to 

life. How Far Will You Go delves into 

the processes behind pieces that 

stretch the bounds of possibility. 

21_21 DESIGN SIGHT Until October 1 

www.2121designsight.jp/en 


KIKUCHI Tomoko, Guimei at the mirror, Chongquing from the series I and 

I, 2011, Ink-jet Print 

SCROLLING THROUGH HEISEI PART 2: COMMUNICATION 

AND SOLITUDE 

The Heisei period (1989-present) has been a time when digital innovations have 

transformed the way we communicate and interact. Email, social media, and 

always-on connections are convenient, but they bring with them a new kind of 

distance, and sometimes a greater feeling of separation. This exhibition draws 

from the Tokyo Photographic Art Museum’s 34,000-work collection, and looks 

at the way in which changing relationships between artists and subjects and 

between artists and viewers play out in the medium of photography. 

Tokyo Photographic Art Museum Until September 18 topmuseum.jp 

Giuseppe Arcimboldo, Spring, 1563, oil on oak wood, Madrid, 

Museo de la Real Academia de Bellas Artes de San Fernando 

I 

SUMMER 

ILLUMINATIONS 

Dispelling the idea that 

illuminations are a winter-only 

affair, Lisa Wallin shares three 

places in and around Tokyo that will 

light up your nights this summer 

TOKYO TOWER 

MILKY WAY 

ILLUMINATION 

In the spirit of the 

recent Tanabata 

holiday, Tokyo 

Tower is making 

sure that lovers Orihime and Hikoboshi have a 

chance to meet all summer long by recreating a 

starry night — complete with Milky Way — on the 

first floor of the main observatory deck. The outer 

staircase, usually only open on weekends, is open 

daily and has its own illumination starting around 

sunset. Until September 3 

TOKYO 

MIDTOWN'S 

SUMMER 

LIGHT 

GARDEN 

Tokyo Midtown will 

be ablaze with "light 

fireworks" on a big screen this summer, with fireworks 

shows scheduled three times an hour. The 

light shows will feature programs from each of the 

three grand fireworks festivals in Japan: Nagaoka, 

Omagari, and Tsuchiura. For four days, August 10 

to August 13, there will be a special performance 

featuring 300 real fireworks in combination with 

the light show, in celebration of Tokyo Midtown's 

10th anniversary. Until August 31 

ARCIMBOLDO: NATURE INTO ART 

Once you see a piece by Giuseppe Arcimboldo, you’ll never forget it. The 16th century 

Milanese painter uses vegetables, fruits, flowers, and other objects to make up the 

features of his portrait subjects – an approach that is both witty and a little disturbing. 

Recognized by his contemporaries as a unique talent, Arcimboldo also found favor 

among the Surrealists of the 20th century. This exhibition includes about 100 works, 

including some 30 oil paintings and drawings; it also marks the first time that a collection 

of Arcimboldo’s pieces will be exhibited in Japan. The National Museum of 

Western Art Until September 24 arcimboldo2017.jp/english 

ENOSHIMA 

TORO 

LANTERN 

FESTIVAL 

Down in Kanagawa, 

they take a 

more traditional 

approach to summer illuminations, lighting up 

Enoshima island with traditional paper lanterns. 

It's the largest illumination event in the area, featuring 

over 1,000 paper lanterns lining the streets 

of the island. Until August 31 


1 

3 

2 

4 

7 

8 

5 6 

AGENDA: THE WEEKENDER ROUNDUP OF WHAT’S HAPPENING IN AUGUST 

1 

AUG 18-19 

2 

AUG 26 

3 

AUG 1-27 

4 

AUG 12 

SHIMOKITAZAWA 

AWAODORI FESTIVAL 

Watch awaodori dancers and 

taiko drummers glide through the 

narrow streets as they wind past 

stalls offering snacks and beer. 

Where: Around Shimokitazawa 

Station 

How much: Free 

More info: tokyoweekender.com 

ASAKUSA SAMBA CARNIVAL 

Celebrating Brazil’s rich links with 

Japan and the exciting world of samba, 

Asakusa’s annual samba carnival is 

both a colorful, entertaining parade 

and a serious dance contest. 

Where: Kaminarimon Dori 



SPECTERS BY TSUKIOKA 

YOSHITOSHI 

Ota Memorial Museum of Art opens 

an exhibition displaying a series of 

yokai (monsters, ghosts, specters) 

by the last great ukiyo-e master, 

Tsukioka Yoshitoshi. 

Where: Ota Memorial Museum of Art 

How much: ¥700-¥1,000 


ASAKUSA TORO NAGASHI 

An event with glowing paper 

lanterns floating along the Sumida 

River. Participants decorate their 

lanterns, then send them off as 

they make a wish. 

Where: Sumida Park 



AUG 20 

PAINT, WINE AND HANABI 

Talented artist and instructor 

Sachiko will guide you on how to 

paint Japanese-style fireworks 

while you enjoy hors d’oeuvres 

and wine. 

Where: ArtBar 

How much: ¥6,000-¥7,000 


6 AUG 1-31 

FUERZA BRUTA: WA! 

WONDER EXPERIENCE 

Argentinian postmodern theater 

show Fuerza Bruta is back, and this 

time with an injection of Japanese 

inspiration. 

Where: Shinagawa Prince Hotel 

How much: ¥7,600-¥12,000 


5 7 

AUG 18 

SONIC MANIA 2017 

This all-night concert kicks off the 

Summer Sonic festival weekend 

with a Friday night loaded with EDM, 

electro, disco punk, pop and plenty 

of rock. 

Where: Makuhari Messe 

How much: ¥11,500-¥20,000 


8 AUG 11-27 

HAKKIYOI KITTE 

Held at the Marunouchi KITTE 

building, this event lets visitors 

discover and experience the culture 

of Japan’s national sport, sumo. 

Where: KITTE 





Society 

TOKYO’S LONGEST RUNNING SOCIAL COLUMN WITH BILL HERSEY 

I 

really hope it’s cooled down by the time you read this, but 

I don’t have my hopes up too high. If you’ve lived here any 

time at all, you know that it can be hot and humid well into 

September. We can’t really complain though, as Tokyo has 

more than its share of air-conditioned public transportation, 

shopping malls, museums, restaurants, coffee shops, convenience 

stores, and more. Anyway, it’ll be autumn, a really nice season here in 

Japan, before we know it. 

With lots of people traveling abroad, always busy Tokyo has 

slowed down a bit. Even so, there are always all kinds of happenings 

all over Japan. For me, these included an American production of one 

of my all-time favorite Broadway musicals, West Side Story, as well as 

the super Drum Tao show. 

Unfortunately, schedule mix ups 

and other commitments kept me 

from several important events. These 

included the 119th anniversary celebration 

for the Philippines, a country 

I love, which was hosted by new Ambassador 

Jose C. Laurel and his wife 

Milagros. The reception and fashion 

show was held in the Fuji Room at 

the Imperial Hotel. From all reports it 

was a very exciting, colorful celebration. 

I was out of Tokyo on July 15, so 

I didn’t get to the Makuhari Messe 

Convention Center for the Abu Dhabi 

Grand Slam Jiu Jitsu World Tour Tokyo 

2017. My thanks to United Arab 

Emirates Ambassador Khaled Omran 

Alamen for the invitation to this very 

special sports event. Kudos to the 

many who participated in what had to 

be a great international sports event. 

Sorry to say I’m not traveling as much 

as I used to, but it seems like our crazy 

old world with its terrorism, travel 

bans, rules, regulations and occasional 

flaky passengers make traveling 

more difficult and often more expensive 

than before. Hopefully this will 

all get better in the future. 

TOKYO FLASHBACK 

Bill and cinematic bad boy Johnny Depp 

In closing this part of the column – how about helping our friends 

at the Franciscan Chapel help others? Here’s information Father 

Grimm gave me on some of the chapel’s current projects: Have you 

noticed that though shopping centers may be crowded, relatively few 

people are carrying shopping bags? It’s a sign that all is not well with 

the economy. 

Another sign is the recent declaration by the welfare ministry that 

the situation of poor children has “improved” so that now only one 

in every seven kids lives below the poverty level in a household that 

struggles to make ends meet. 

To help struggling families, the Second Harvest Japan food bank 

gathers surplus food from retailers, manufacturers and individuals 

and makes it available to those in need. If you want to learn more or 

help with contributions of food, money or time as a volunteer, see the 

Second Harvest website at 2hj.org/english/. Now let’s move on to the 

many happenings around Old Edo 

OPENING FESTIVAL – SAISEIKAI’S NEW BUILDING 

Time as we all know really flies. It’s been three years and four months 

since I had to spend six weeks in Saiseikai Hospital. I really thank my 

doctor Kempei Matsuoka. He’s the man who recommended the hospital, 

and one of the many staff there who helped me through what 

could have been some rough times. 

In May, I had the privilege of joining him, his wife Yasue, his 

daughter Sachiko, who’s also a diabetes specialist, and her two daughters 

Sakura and Aoi at the opening 

festival of the hospital’s new big super 

modern facilities. 

In 1911, Emperor Meiji donated 

¥1.5 million for the establishment 

of a public medical institution. 

Now they have 41 branch offices (hospitals, 

clinics, etc.) in 37 prefectures. 

This includes a clinic ship, the Saisei 

Maru, which visits 68 islands in the 

Japanese Inland Sea. I don’t have the 

space or technical knowhow to list 

all their hospitals, clinics, schools for 

nursing welfare and everything, but 

all together they total 331 with a staff 

of about 35,000. 

The new building behind 

Tokyo Tower has the latest medical 

equipment from all over the world 

and the nurses’ stations, the operating 

rooms, and doctors’ consultation 

rooms are really the ultimate in 

high tech. They’ve also gone all out to 

make it as pleasant and comfortable 

for patients, and for their visitors as 

possible. The hospital staff look great 

in their new uniforms and go all out 

to make their patients’ stay as comfortable 

as a hospital stay can be. 

Language can be a problem, but with 

more and more foreign patients and 

the Olympics coming up, more of the 

staff are learning basic English. Most of the doctors studied abroad 

as well as here, and many do speak English. If you need any more information 

on Saiseikai, call 03-3451-8211 and ask for Yoshihara-san. 

She really knows her work. I should add she was the interpreter for 

Donald Trump when he visited Japan about 35 years ago. 

ISRAEL’S INDEPENDENCE DAY CELEBRATION 

Israeli Ambassador Ruth Kahanoff hosted a big reception for her 

country’s Independence Day celebration at the New Otani Hotel. The 

program opened with a very informative speech by Ruth emphasizing 

Israel’s long and good relationship with Japan. This was followed by 

a group of beautiful kids from Tohoku who sang several Israeli songs. 

They really put their hearts and voices into their performance. 


THE ISMAYILZADES’ 

AZERBAIJAN NATIONAL DAY 

1. Photographer Hiroyuki Suzuki, his wife 

fashion designer Junko Koshino and Masahiro 

Imamura 2. The host’s son Nursel with Nareiz 

Talibova and her daughter Arzu and Aydan 

3. Hiroyuki, Rana, the host Amb. Ismayilzade, 

Diet member Akira Amari, Junko Koshino, Dewi 

Sukarno, Miss Sake Kanagawa 2017 4. Leila 

Masamoto, her mother Dinara, Rana, Junko 

5. Panama Amb. Ritter Diaz, the host Amb. 

Gursel Ismayilzade 6. Yamamoto-san sang 

Azerbaijan’s national anthem 

1 

2 

7 

3 

4 

5 

9 

10 

6 

8 

12 

11 

13 

MIN-ON 

7. New Min-On Concert Assoc. President Kazuto 

Ito and opera stars Li Shengsu, Yu Kuizhi 8. Soka 

Gakkai Int’l liaison officer Joan M. Anderson and 

opera cast member 9. Cast beauty and outgoing 

Singapore Amb. & Mrs. Chin Siat Yoon 

10. Bill and opera cast member 

14 

THAI FESTIVAL 

11. New Indonesian Amb. Arifin Tasrif and his wife, 

outgoing Singaporean Amb. Chin Siat Yoon 

12. Two former Japanese ambassadors to Thailand 

(Seiji Kojima, left, Hiroyuki Yoshita, right) flanking 

the current Thai ambassador Bansarn Bunnag 

13. Bill with Thai Deputy Prime Minister, General 

Thanasak Patimapragorn 14. Thai puppeteers 

putting on a show 

TOKYO WEEKENDER | | AUGUST 2017 | 43

ISRAELI INDEPENDENCE DAY 

RECEPTION AT NEW OTANI 

1. Israeli Amb. Ruth Kahanoff, Minister of 

Economy, Trade and Industry Hiroshige 

Seko 2. Kyoko Spector, Yoyogi Int’l School’s 

Founding Director Yuko Muir 3. Japan 

Aerospace Pres. Dr. Naoki Okumura, US 

Embassy’s Jason P. Hyland 4. Gaimusho’s 

Takahashi-san and his wife Mami with Ruth 

5. The great kids from Tohoku 6. Purity Co. 

Pres. Jay Dunkelman, Gaetno K.K. Pres. Guy 

Totaro, Ruth, Celia Dunkelman 

1 

2 

3 

4 

7 

5 

6 

9 10 

8 

12 13 

14 

11 

AT GRACE SAITO’S 

MEMORIAL CONCERT 

7. Itsumi Sano, Akiko Yamanaka, Tokiko 

To, Lynn Lai 8. Kyoko Spector, Mary 

Katayama, Takako Asaka, Daniele 

Yoshikoshi 9. Keiko Sugiyama, Wided 

Darragi (Tunisia), Fumiko Tottori, 

Djibouti Amb. Ahmed Araita Ali, 

Syrian Amb., Madeline Umewaka 

10. Homat Homes’ pres. Tani-san, Syrian 

Amb. Warif Halabi 11.Wided Darragi 

(Tunisia), Madeline Umewaka 12. HIH 

Princess Takamado 13. Brigitte Sekine, 

Tokyo Women’s Club Pres. Jill Sinclair- 

Ito 14. Djibouti Amb. Ali, his daughter 

Emely 

44 | AUGUST 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER 


Ruth is an excellent ambassador and has made many friends for 

both herself and for Israel. I, along with others there, was happy to try 

the Israeli food as well as Japanese favorites. The laid-back ambiance 

of the evening really brought back some great memories of my two 

trips to Israel – and the many dynamic people I met there. 

THAI FESTIVAL IN YOYOGI PARK 

I was up early on Saturday, May 13, and joined Thai Ambassador Bansarn 

Bunnag, his wife and many Japanese and Thai VIP visitors at the 

18th festival opening ceremony. The Thai Festival is always one of the 

most popular and this year was a celebration of the 130th anniversary 

of Thailand-Japan diplomatic relations. 

Unfortunately it was raining that day, but it was still crowded 

and everyone really seemed to be enjoying themselves. My thanks 

to Ambassador and Mrs. Bunnag who sat me next to the new Indonesian 

Ambassador and Mrs. Arifin Tasrif who kindly shared their 

umbrellas. This also gave me the opportunity to meet and talk with 

the guest of honor: Thai Deputy Prime Minister, General Thanasak 

Patimapragorn. He, the ambassador, and several Japanese made 

short meaningful speeches to officially open the colorful and interesting 

event. After the speeches, there was a dynamic show featuring 

Thai musicians, dancers and traditional puppets. After the show, VIP 

guests moved to a big building that had been set up for the festival 

where they could check out the photo history of Thailand and many 

of the lifetime accomplishments of their late great, highly respected, 

much loved king Bhumibol. Everyone enjoyed the bountiful Thai 

buffet, and mixing and meeting with the many high powered guests 

there that day. 

Happy to say the weather cleared up on Sunday and Yoyogi was 

packed with people enjoying the food, shows by top Thai entertainers, 

a kick boxing exhibition, the “Thai village” and the warm happy ambiance 

of the truly great Thai happening. 

Our Thai and friends from other members of the Association of 

Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN), which was founded in Bangkok 

August 8, 1967, are celebrating their 50th anniversary. The many activities 

to celebrate included an exhibition of photographs portraying 

ASEAN’s busy calendar of all kinds of worthwhile projects. The exhibition 

of photos by her Royal Highness Princess Maria Chakri Sirindham 

portraying ASEAN activities over the years was a big success at 

the Thai festival 2017. Our congratulations to all concerned. 

ROTARY CLUB MEMORIAL CONCERT 

FOR GRACE SAITO 

I enjoyed a superb Japanese lunch at the Peninsula recently 

with Saitama business tycoon Tsukasa Shiga and Rotary Club 

International director Hiroaki Kobayashi. I’ve known Shiga since he 

was a student at St. Mary’s and Hiroaki since his days as a leading 

exec at several top hotels. In between the many courses I had 

the opportunity to bring up the possibility of a charity concert in 

memory of the late and great Grace Saito. A true philanthropist, she 

had over the years supported some of the Rotary’s many projects 

by donating the proceeds from the many classical concerts she 

sponsored. Kobayashi liked the idea and a few months later 

I received an invitation to a charity concert for the eradication of 

polio dedicated to Grace Michiko Saito. 

It was a full house at Sogetsu Kaikan for this truly wonderful lady. 

HIH Princess Takamado, a friend and fan of Grace, was the guest of 

honor. The performance by seven top classical musicians and singers 

was excellent. The closing – when everyone there was asked to join 

them in singing “Amazing Grace” – was an outstanding finale for the 

occasion. Our thanks and congratulation to Rotary International for 

this much-deserved evening. 

MIN-ON GALA-CHINA NATIONAL PEKING OPERA 

First, my sincerest thanks to Min-On’s outgoing President Hiroyasu 

Kobayashi for the many invitations over the years to so many wonderful 

cultural exchanges from all over the world. He will keep working 

with the new President Kazuto Ito as adviser. I’m sure they will 

continue to bring great song and dance performers to tour and perform 

all over Japan. 

Hiroyasu ended his super successful time as president with the 

China National Peking Opera Company’s colorful shows in 28 venues 

across Japan. The special occasion that featured 58 cast members and 

crew celebrated the 45th anniversary of the normalization of diplomatic 

relations between Japan and the People’s Republic of China. It 

was a kaleidoscope of song, dance, speech, combat and acrobatics. 

The sets, costumes and makeup were spectacular. (Jackie Chan, by 

the way, came from a Peking Opera background.) 

After the show guests had the opportunity to meet, mix and enjoy 

a lavish buffet with the cast. Many didn’t speak English, but those 

who did helped us communicate. It was great and I feel that if I get to 

Beijing, I will have some great new friends there. 

At the party I met Soka Gakkai liaison officer Joan M. Anderson, 

and she told me a long-time friend, jazz musician Herbie Hancock, 

recently published a book he wrote together with the head of the 

religious group, Daisaku Ikeda. I also had the privilege of meeting 

and getting to know another great showbiz personality, Tina Turner, 

who’s also a member of Soka Gakkai. She was doing concerts in Manila 

when I was visiting there. 

AZERBAIJAN NATIONAL DAY RECEPTION 

In the Okura Hotel’s luxurious Orchard Room, Azerbaijan Ambassador 

Gursel Ismayilzade and his lovely wife Rana hosted a reception 

on the occasion of their Republic Day and 25th anniversary of the 

establishment of diplomatic relations between Azerbaijan and Japan. 

The program opened with a lady from Azerbaijan dressed in 

national costume singing the national anthems of the hosting country 

and Japan. This was followed by a very informative welcoming 

speech by the host. It was a colorful gathering with several of the 

children there wearing national costumes. Azerbaijani women, as 

you can see by the photos, are wonderfully fashionable – at another 

recent party Rana wore a dynamic dress by Issey Miyake, and for her 

national day reception, she wore an original Italian creation. The 

Ismayilzades are a very popular couple, and it was wall to wall 

interesting people enjoying the relaxing special celebration. 

Tokyo Weekender Editor Alec Jordan, Le Monde’s 

Philippe Mesmer, Kit Nagamura, and Imperial Hotel 

President Hideya Sadayasu at the Imperial Hotel’s Frank 

Lloyd Wright 150th Anniversary Exhibition 

World renowned diabetics doctor Kempei 

Matsuoka, his daughter Sachiko Yuasa, 

her daughters Sakura and Aoi, and his wife 

Yasue at Saiseikai’s reopening festival 

Charo and Bill Ireton, Natsuko Toda, actress Diane 

Lane, Teruyo Nogami, and Eleanor Coppola 


Looking for your next job in Japan? 

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Tokyo Weekender August 2017

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