N16Life_SUMMER2017
20.000 copies of N16 Life Magazine - Hackney printed and delivered every quarter in N16 and surrounding areas. 20.000 copies of N16 Life Magazine - Hackney printed and delivered every quarter in N16 and surrounding areas.
HACKNEY | SUMMER 2017 free New Unity: Radically different on the inside ISTANBUL: two continents in two days Humans of N16 The stories of strangers across Hackney The Home of Outdoor Sports: Stoke Newington The Delicious Guide to Hackney GLORIOUS SUMMER Make the most of the food, drink and action in our area
- Page 2 and 3: HACKNEY VENUES Hold your event in o
- Page 4 and 5: from the EDITOR Welcome to the summ
- Page 6 and 7: SPOTLIGHT Hackney ON @amygrrr Some
- Page 8 and 9: WHAT'S ON this summer N16 Life’s
- Page 10 and 11: Live at the Chapel with Ed Byrne Th
- Page 12 and 13: Humans of N16 Inspired by Humans of
- Page 14 and 15: Elinor Huggett I was born in Cornwa
- Page 16 and 17: Italian cuisine coupled with a vari
- Page 18 and 19: 18
- Page 20 and 21: Call today Moving home? Call storkr
- Page 22 and 23: Radically different on the inside b
- Page 24 and 25: The Delicious Guide TO Hackney N16
- Page 26 and 27: REVIEW Bespoke beauty treatments fo
- Page 28 and 29: FOOD WATERMELON, LEMON & ROSEMARY S
- Page 30 and 31: Q&A We're calling it 'down home fan
- Page 32 and 33: • Double Room • Single Room •
- Page 34 and 35: Unleash your CREATIVITY Is that bea
- Page 36 and 37: THE BIRDCAGE BAR + KITCHEN 58 Stamf
- Page 39 and 40: FEATURE Globally recognised brands
- Page 41 and 42: 26 Stuffed Calamari with Shrimps Ea
- Page 43: GETAWAY the Basilica Cistern (20 TL
- Page 46: ADVERTISE YOUR BUSINESS WITH N16 LI
HACKNEY | SUMMER 2017<br />
free<br />
New Unity:<br />
Radically different<br />
on the inside<br />
ISTANBUL:<br />
two continents<br />
in two days<br />
Humans<br />
of N16<br />
The stories of<br />
strangers across<br />
Hackney<br />
The<br />
Home of<br />
Outdoor<br />
Sports:<br />
Stoke Newington<br />
The<br />
Delicious<br />
Guide to<br />
Hackney<br />
GLORIOUS<br />
SUMMER<br />
Make the most of the food, drink<br />
and action in our area
HACKNEY VENUES<br />
Hold your event in one of the<br />
most creative and thriving<br />
areas in London<br />
Hackney Venues has emerged as a collection of some of the<br />
most sought after event spaces in east London. Currently<br />
featuring seven beautifully restored unique venues in the<br />
heart of the borough including two stunning art-deco town<br />
halls, an eighteenth century mansion house inside of Clissold<br />
Park, a former water pumping station, a RIBA award-winning<br />
sporting centre as well as a purpose-built conference centre<br />
and a converted warehouse a stones-throw away from<br />
Shoreditch High Street. From private parties and stunning<br />
weddings to conferences, product launches, fashion shows<br />
and awards ceremonies; Hackney Venues offers a space for<br />
any occasion. Get in touch with our dedicated events team<br />
for further information or visit our website for more details.<br />
020 8356 5505 www.hackneyvenues.com venuehire@hackney.gov.uk<br />
HDS992
Summer 2017<br />
ISSUE #3<br />
29<br />
Andi Oliver is to open a restaurant<br />
in Stoke Newington<br />
18<br />
The home of outdoor water<br />
sports: Stoke Newington<br />
12<br />
HUMANS<br />
OF N16<br />
24<br />
22<br />
08<br />
42<br />
THE DELICIOUS GUIDE<br />
TO HACKNEY<br />
Radically different<br />
on the inside<br />
What's on<br />
THIS SUMMER<br />
Istanbul:<br />
in two days<br />
3
from the<br />
EDITOR<br />
Welcome to the summer issue of N16 Life.<br />
In this edition, you will read about the<br />
West Reservoir, a water sports centre<br />
close to Green Lanes, that had to be<br />
saved from being turned into a housing<br />
development in the 1980s. We spoke to<br />
the North London Sailing Association<br />
and The Castle Canoe Club, which have operated on the<br />
reservoir for many years.<br />
Another story is The New Unity church on Newington Green<br />
– and how it differs from just about every other church. If you<br />
don’t believe me, check out their slogan, “Believe in Good” – yep,<br />
that extra “o” is in there on purpose. Carrie O’Grady explains<br />
more in these pages.<br />
We also have our traditional selection of food and drink to<br />
sample from across N16’s unrivalled cuisine offering – just in<br />
time for the summer.<br />
Food writer and cook Yasemen Kaner-White shares lemony<br />
recipes from her book, Lemon Compendium. And if you’re set<br />
on learning something new, why not check out our course guide?<br />
As always, you'll find an extensive guide to what's on in your<br />
area, and highlights of the cultural events in London that you<br />
mustn't miss.<br />
See you in September, and enjoy the summer!<br />
EDITORIAL<br />
EDITOR<br />
Yasemin Bakan<br />
SUB EDITOR<br />
Michael Daventry<br />
PICTURE EDITOR<br />
Mehmet Er<br />
DESIGN<br />
Ekrem Yilmaz<br />
CONTRIBUTORS<br />
Carrie O’Grady<br />
Gianfranco Casula<br />
ADVERTISING<br />
ADVERTISING/CREATIVE<br />
SOLUTIONS<br />
Özlem Bulut<br />
ADVERTISING<br />
ENQUIRIES<br />
CALL<br />
020 3652 0541<br />
07459 501 545<br />
E-MAIL<br />
info@n16life.com<br />
Join the conversation:<br />
N16 Life is on Facebook<br />
N16 Life<br />
www.n16life.com<br />
N16 Life is a quarterly magazine<br />
distributed to more than 20,000<br />
homes and businesses in N16 and<br />
the surrounding areas.<br />
It is also available in local cafes, pubs,<br />
libraries and supermarkets<br />
in Hackney.<br />
Yasemin Bakan<br />
Editor<br />
Published by Metropol Media Ltd<br />
Metropol Media Ltd cannot accept<br />
responsibility for unsolicited<br />
submissions, manuscripts and<br />
photographs. While every care is<br />
taken, prices and details are<br />
subject to change and Metropol<br />
Media Ltd take no responsibility<br />
for omissions or errors.<br />
All rights reserved.<br />
4
THE BIRDCAGE<br />
BAR + KITCHEN<br />
58 Stamford Hill, London N16 6XS<br />
thebirdcageN16.co.uk • @thebirdcageN16<br />
Tel: 020 8806 9077
SPOTLIGHT<br />
Hackney ON<br />
@amygrrr<br />
Some of our favourite<br />
images taken by you<br />
around the town! Tag your<br />
Hackney pictures using<br />
@n16lifemagazine<br />
@weimiaolu<br />
@caslan12<br />
@willied000<br />
@duygulaki77<br />
CLISSOLD PARK<br />
5KM RACES<br />
theraceorganiser.com<br />
Three summer evening 5km races<br />
in Clissold Park offering runners a<br />
chance to run off that working day in<br />
a beautiful park. All runners receive<br />
a goody bag. All abilities welcome.<br />
13th June; 11th July; 8th August 2017<br />
Individual Race £12, 3 Races £30<br />
6
Brasserie<br />
Only the freshest and<br />
top quality ingredients<br />
Open daily for breakfast, lunch & dinner<br />
60 Newington Green, London, N16 9PX<br />
info@cafeacoustic.co.uk • 020 7288 1235<br />
www.cafeacoustic.co.uk
WHAT'S ON<br />
this summer<br />
N16 Life’s unrivalled guide to the<br />
theatre, music, outdoor events and<br />
children’s activities in Hackney<br />
and across London in the warmer<br />
months of 2017<br />
America’s finest:<br />
Dr Dog<br />
oslohackney.com<br />
An American rock band from Pennsylvania, Dr.<br />
Dog, comes to London for just two shows.<br />
The band's musical styling of indie rock is<br />
strongly influenced by bands of the 1960s, such as<br />
The Beatles and The Beach Boys, but they have also<br />
touched upon more unrelated genres since their<br />
inception.<br />
Wednesday 28th June 2017 | Doors at 19:30<br />
Tickets £15.40<br />
East side stories:<br />
Londoners in transition<br />
ucl.ac.uk/library/exhibitions/east-side-stories<br />
his exhibition at UCL<br />
considers East London’s<br />
T<br />
long and fascinating<br />
history of regeneration and<br />
change, as the metropolis<br />
expanded and new communities<br />
emerged over the centuries. It<br />
illustrates the movement from<br />
rural to urban, everyday lives from<br />
schooldays to work, and the good<br />
intentions of the social reformers.<br />
Featuring items from eighteenth<br />
century maps to the proof copy of<br />
George Orwell’s 'Confessions of a<br />
Down and Out in London and Paris<br />
by X’, it draws on the extensive<br />
London History, Jewish and<br />
Education collections and archives<br />
held by UCL Library Services.<br />
Free entry<br />
Monday-Friday, 9.30am-5pm,<br />
until Fri 15 Dec 2017<br />
UCL Main Library (Wilkins<br />
Building), London WC1E 6BT<br />
Theatre and<br />
comedy combined<br />
hoxtonhall.co.uk<br />
Phantasmagoria Cabaret is an unashamed<br />
celebration of theatre and comedy, which<br />
examines the issue of flitting between the real<br />
and inauthentic self.<br />
Patrizia Paolini and the three gorgeous girls of Jesus<br />
Paolini Park, plus guest artists of remarkable caliber<br />
make Phantasmagoria cabaret a highly engaging<br />
and original experience, in their third appearance at<br />
Hoxton Hall.<br />
Saturday 22nd July; 20:00<br />
£12<br />
8
culture<br />
OLIVER TWIST<br />
CREATED FOR<br />
EVERYONE AGED<br />
SIX AND OVER<br />
openairtheatre.com<br />
Adapted by Anya Reiss from the<br />
novel by Charles Dickens Directed<br />
by Caroline Byrne. Discover the<br />
original story of Victorian London's<br />
most famous child with Oliver Twist<br />
created for everyone aged six and<br />
over. It will have you on the edge of<br />
your seat and wanting more.<br />
Monday 17 July - Saturday 5 August<br />
All tickets £18<br />
DALSTON<br />
YOGA<br />
dalstonyoga.co.uk<br />
Dalston Yoga is based in the centre<br />
of Dalston, in a building constructed<br />
in the 1800s that was originally<br />
a Hackney Cab Stable. Paulene<br />
Morphett is the founder of and<br />
primary teacher at Dalston Yoga.<br />
She was introduced to yoga whilst<br />
at university, has been practicing<br />
steadily for 25 years and teaching for<br />
the last twelve.<br />
The studio space is airy and open<br />
with natural skylight.<br />
Single class £12<br />
INK<br />
almeida.co.uk<br />
INK a new play by James Graham<br />
directed by Rupert Goold<br />
Fleet Street. 1969. The Sun rises. James<br />
Graham’s ruthless, red-topped new play<br />
leads with the birth of this country’s most<br />
influential newspaper – when a young and<br />
rebellious Rupert Murdoch asked the<br />
impossible and launched its first editor’s<br />
quest, against all odds, to give the people<br />
what they want.<br />
Saturday 17 June – Saturday 5 August<br />
17 Jun - 23 Jun £32, £28, £20, £10<br />
24 Jun - 5 Aug £39.50, £32, £20, £10<br />
CAMPFIRE<br />
CLUB<br />
woodberrywetlands.org.uk<br />
A concert like no other…<br />
unamplified, outdoors and round<br />
a fire; surely this is the only way to<br />
really hear music. Since the dawn of<br />
song, by the flickering embers and<br />
starry skies all walks of man and<br />
woman have gathered in song and<br />
celebration, to tell the stories and<br />
while away an evening.<br />
16 June, 21 July, 18 August & 15<br />
September, from 7pm<br />
Tickets £10<br />
AGAINST<br />
almeida.co.uk<br />
Ben Whishaw returns to the Almeida<br />
in AGAINST, a gripping new<br />
play about how we come to know<br />
ourselves honestly by Christopher Shinn,<br />
directed by Ian Rickson.<br />
Silicon Valley. The future. A rocket<br />
launches. Luke is an aerospace billionaire<br />
who can talk to anyone. But God is<br />
talking to him. He sets out to change the<br />
world. Only violence stands in his way.<br />
Christopher Shinn’s gripping new play,<br />
directed by Ian Rickson, features Ben<br />
Whishaw as Luke. Against is designed by<br />
Ultz. Casting is by Sophie Holland.<br />
Saturday 12 Aug - Saturday 30 Sept<br />
9
Live at the Chapel<br />
with Ed Byrne<br />
The monthly spectacle at the stunning<br />
gothic Union Chapel returns with another<br />
extraordinary line up; Observational comedy<br />
master Ed Byrne headlines the July show, star of<br />
Mock The Week, Live At The Apollo, Have I Got<br />
News For You & many more.<br />
Saturday 1 July , 18:30 Room: Chapel<br />
£20 adv<br />
FOR THE KIDS<br />
Romeo & Juliet: the story to<br />
break a thousand hearts<br />
southbankcentre.co.uk<br />
ee Shakespeare’s heartbreaking<br />
tale paired with<br />
S<br />
Nureyev’s blazing ballet.<br />
English National Ballet brings the<br />
world’s greatest love story to Royal<br />
Festival Hall with Rudolf Nureyev’s<br />
passionate choreography and<br />
Prokofiev’s exhilarating score<br />
performed live by English National<br />
Ballet Philharmonic.<br />
Full of action, humour and<br />
drama, Nureyev’s award-winning<br />
production of Romeo and<br />
Juliet was created especially for<br />
English National Ballet in 1977<br />
to celebrate the Queen’s Silver<br />
Jubilee. The Company has since<br />
performed it worldwide to critical<br />
acclaim.<br />
Royal Festival Hall<br />
1 Aug 2017 - 5 Aug 2017<br />
£12 - £55<br />
ALEENA’S GARDEN<br />
littleangeltheatre.com<br />
Aleena’s Garden is a perfect first theatre<br />
experience for very young children. Join<br />
Aleena in her beautiful garden, help bring<br />
the seeds to life, meet the animals that live there,<br />
watch the flowers bloom, the trees blossom and the<br />
seasons change.<br />
Aleena’s Garden is aimed at ages 4 months to 3<br />
years. Babies need a ticket from 4 months.<br />
Thurs 15 & Fri 16 June<br />
£10 Full-price Adults<br />
£8 Children / Babies (from 4 months)<br />
and Concessions<br />
BOBBIN<br />
littleangeltheatre.com<br />
Meet Bobbin, the mischievous<br />
spirit of a shoemaker’s workshop,<br />
who is always ready to explore,<br />
discover and make new friends.<br />
This is his first night in a strange<br />
new world and there is so much to<br />
do he might just need your help!<br />
An interactive, wordless show for<br />
young children, based on ‘The Elves<br />
and the Shoemaker’, Bobbin is<br />
full of Tea Break’s trademark<br />
comedy, invention and imagination.<br />
Step inside the workshop for a<br />
miniature, magical adventure!<br />
Bobbin is aimed at ages 2-6.<br />
Mon 7 – Thurs 10 Aug<br />
£10 Full-price Adults<br />
£8 Children (age 1 – 15) and<br />
Concessions<br />
FOR THE KIDS<br />
10
culture<br />
New music<br />
showcase with<br />
an Arab twist<br />
cafeoto.co.uk<br />
Presented in collaboration with Supersonic<br />
Festival this musical showcase by Nawa<br />
Recordings features some of the Arab world’s<br />
most creative, independent and forward thinking<br />
artists. Founded by multi-instrumentalist<br />
musician and composer Khyam Allami in<br />
2011, Nawa is an independent label focused on<br />
releasing new music from the Arab world.<br />
Having released critically acclaimed albums by<br />
Maurice Louca, Alif, The Dwarfs of East Agouza<br />
and Allami’s soundtrack to Tunisian director<br />
Leyla Bouzid’s award winning debut feature film<br />
As I Open My Eyes, the label brings its newest<br />
artists to the UK for the first time in a genredefying<br />
and eclectic quadruple-bill.<br />
Monday 19 June 2017, 7.30<br />
£20<br />
FRIENDSFEST AT<br />
CLISSOLD PARK<br />
friendsfest.co.uk/clissold-park-london<br />
Following last year's sell out tour, award-winning<br />
Comedy Central UK's Friendsfest returns this summer<br />
for a 12-week tour of the UK, including nine days in<br />
London’s Clissold Park.<br />
Brand new features for 2017 include a full-scale Joey<br />
& Chandler apartment set, as well as never-beforeseen<br />
memorabilia and props from the show. There's<br />
also the best of the fest from previous years, including<br />
Monica & Rachel's apartment, Recreate the Titles, Ross<br />
& Rachel's Vegas chapel of love, the chance to grab a<br />
coffee in Central Perk, something to eat in Monica's<br />
Moondance Diner and a drink at the Chick & Duck Bar...<br />
There's also a special Friendsfest shop on site, offering<br />
exclusive memorabilia and merchandise.<br />
FriendsFest will be at Clissold Park,<br />
September 15–September 24; Tickets £26<br />
Bespoke wedding and birthday cakes<br />
made to order - Viennoiseries -<br />
- French bread - Chocolates -<br />
- Macaroons<br />
www.belleepoque.co.uk<br />
Newington boutique<br />
N16<br />
020 7249 2222<br />
Islington boutique<br />
N1<br />
020 8001 8295<br />
Selfridges<br />
W1<br />
11
Humans<br />
of N16<br />
Inspired by Humans of New York, N16 Life<br />
records the stories of strangers across Hackney.<br />
Here are the latest Humans of N16.<br />
Photos MEHMET ER<br />
DAVID S. BLANCO<br />
I moved to Stoke Newington in 2011 with<br />
my wife from neighbouring Highbury and<br />
Islington where I had lived most of my<br />
life. I spent a lot of time as a teenager in<br />
Stoke Newington and have witnessed the<br />
transformation of the neighbourhood.<br />
I started Blank Editions primarily as a<br />
vehicle for artists in and around Hackney<br />
to release music in a very streamlined<br />
way and document the collaborative<br />
spirit happening in and around our<br />
neighbourhood.<br />
We release a variety of genres, but<br />
I guess what makes many of these<br />
recordings somewhat unique is down to<br />
the fact many of our releases either share<br />
recording facilities or members who have<br />
collaborated in some capacity at some<br />
point in the past. The local connections<br />
allows artists to develop a friendship, and<br />
work in ways that feel transparent and<br />
natural, without contracts and lawyers.<br />
Despite the size of the label, which is<br />
small, it feels right to work that way.<br />
Some of our releases have had a very<br />
focused narrative relating to N16. For<br />
example, our first release from Thurston<br />
Moore, whose A side, entitled Detonation,<br />
was a homage of sorts to the Angry<br />
Brigade, a revolutionary group that<br />
operated from a house in Amhurst Road<br />
in the 1970s.<br />
In January of this year, we released<br />
material by a Stoke Newington based<br />
artist working under the name Bark!<br />
Dead Summer. The EP was called<br />
Wanderings, which was a direct homage<br />
to the remains of the New River and the<br />
Piano Factory that once stoodin what is<br />
now Red Square, just off Carysfort Road<br />
where the label was originally founded.<br />
In 2014, we put out a solo 7” by Yuki<br />
Tsujii from the Hackney based band,<br />
Bo Ningen, Yuki’s solo record had a leaf<br />
taken from Clissold Park and inserted<br />
into each package along with the record<br />
itself, these records were then shipped all<br />
over the world.<br />
We had to get clearance from the<br />
embassies to find out if they allowed this<br />
kind of vegetation into their countries.<br />
It’s funny to think that there are leaves<br />
from Clissold Park in quite a few<br />
countries around the world due to this<br />
release.<br />
We put our first record out in March<br />
2012 and have released 26 so far with a<br />
pretty busy schedule ahead including a<br />
fifth year birthday event on 23 June at<br />
Blundell Street Studios.<br />
12
STORIES<br />
we put out a solo 7” by Yuki Tsujii from<br />
the Hackney based band, Bo Ningen,<br />
Yuki’s solo record had a leaf taken<br />
from Clissold Park and inserted into<br />
each package along with the record<br />
itself, these records were then<br />
shipped all over the world.<br />
Müge Çetinkaya<br />
I was born in Karabük, Turkey, where I spent<br />
the most magnificent years of my childhood<br />
until about 12 years old.<br />
My parents were both civil servants. I used<br />
to visit my mother at work and loved playing<br />
games behind the counter, imitating her and<br />
her colleagues working with typewriters and<br />
doing fast calculations with Facit calculators.<br />
One of the first pieces of advice I was given<br />
was “if you have an apple, halve it, and then<br />
give the bigger piece to your friend”. I always<br />
do.<br />
After my parents’ divorce in 1986, I moved<br />
to Izmit with my mother and little sister. Such<br />
events teach you to take responsibility, like<br />
taking care of my sister while our mother<br />
was at work. I was interested in everything<br />
to protect the environment and nature. I was<br />
very good at literature and that’s why I still am<br />
very fond of writing. I have a blog but I admit<br />
that I am a bit lazy focusing on it.<br />
At 17, I joined a local theatre group. I had<br />
made great friends there with still ongoing<br />
strong connections. Unfortunately, I could not<br />
carry on acting much longer as the same year<br />
because I was diagnosed with Systemic Lupus,<br />
an illness where person’s immune system<br />
goes to overdrive and attacks its own organs<br />
and tissues. It manifests itself differently and<br />
it can have a big impact in their life. Let's just<br />
say I learned well how to manage it.<br />
I am a graduate of Ankara University,<br />
Department of Sociology. After a few<br />
filmmaking short courses in London, I studied<br />
Broadcast Post-Production and worked for<br />
several media and broadcast companies and<br />
organisations such as BBC London and MTV<br />
Europe.<br />
I now mostly work independently on project<br />
based roles; co-ordinating international<br />
media for some film festivals, PR for theatre<br />
plays, voluntary works for NGOs; the British<br />
Lung Foundation and Greenpeace UK.<br />
Home is the most important place in the<br />
world. I can easily say that a lot of my friends<br />
also feel a little lost in London even after long<br />
years living and working here. Everybody<br />
loves to go to their home eventually.<br />
I hit a low when I lost my mother in 2008<br />
but the 2013 Gezi Park upheavals fanned the<br />
flame. I genuinely want everything to be a lot<br />
better in Turkey and one day plan to go back<br />
for good. For now, I miss Turkey when I am<br />
here and when I am there, I miss London. But<br />
in London nothing managed to fill the gap<br />
in my life which once was loaded with full of<br />
unconditional love given me by my Turkish<br />
family and friends.<br />
13
Elinor Huggett<br />
I was born in Cornwall, and studied Mathematics in<br />
Bath before moving to London seven years ago to do<br />
a Master’s degree in Environmental Design. I've been<br />
living in the N16 area for more than five years now,<br />
and absolutely love it – it really feels like a community<br />
within the city.<br />
I got into swing dancing about five years ago (a<br />
friend suggested it and I got hooked!), so when I heard<br />
about the beginning of SwingTrain I thought it was<br />
a brilliant idea. I love that it's accessible to everyone,<br />
no matter their age, fitness levels or abilities, and I<br />
work hard to make sure that everyone who comes to<br />
my classes enjoys it. The SwingTrain movements are<br />
inspired by the vintage street dances of Charleston,<br />
lindy hop, and shag, and they take place to the elating<br />
sounds of swing, gospel, rhythm & blues and jazz.<br />
The classes are for everyone! Regardless of age,<br />
fitness or ability, my goal is always to make sure people<br />
have a great time, get moving, and leave with a smile<br />
on their face - no previous dance or fitness experience<br />
required! The full body exercises work legs, arms, and<br />
core, as well as developing coordination and mental<br />
agility through memorable routines.<br />
At the end of class I always have a stream of people<br />
walking past me, grinning and saying how much fun<br />
they've had. I always tell people from the outset that<br />
my priority is that they have fun - and it seems to<br />
work! It's amazing to think people can burn up to 500<br />
calories in an hour and hardly even realise it.<br />
Jane Edwards<br />
I was born in Islington and moved to Stoke Newington<br />
when I was one and spent my childhood growing up here. Lots<br />
of my childhood memories are from times of playing over<br />
Clissold park, swimming at Clissold park baths and I loved<br />
spending lots of my time at The Shakespeare Walk adventure<br />
playground.<br />
I always dreamed of being a hairdresser so as soon as I left<br />
school I got a job in a salon off Newington Green signing up for<br />
a youth training scheme for 2 years.<br />
I stayed there for a year and then had the opportunity in<br />
1988 to come and work for the former owner of this salon Mark<br />
Starr, who was a fantastic haircutter with a big personality.<br />
Mark trained me over the next few years and I stayed working<br />
with him for 18 years before I left to venture out on new things.<br />
Three years passed and then I was given the terrible news<br />
that Mark had passed away suddenly and I was then given the<br />
opportunity to take over the business.<br />
With a big push from my partner to go for it, I can happily say<br />
I have just celebrated eight years of business this March with<br />
ongoing support from clients new and old and also my amazing<br />
stylist Michelle who I meet at hairdressing college all those<br />
years ago.<br />
Stoke Newington is an amazing place and I have seen so<br />
many changes over the years.<br />
I still have clients that I started cutting when I was training<br />
nearly thirty years ago, including three generations of families<br />
and young kids who are now in their thirties, some even<br />
traveling from as far as Bath and even Greece.<br />
The shop is tucked away in a lovely road behind Church<br />
St and the high street. It has been a hairdressers for over 30<br />
years. Previously it was a dairy called Akam & Sons and still<br />
boasts original features including a huge marble slab in the<br />
window, which I love to decorate throughout the year and is<br />
adored by locals and many children who look forward to seeing<br />
what's coming next.<br />
I love being a part of this lovely community and hope to<br />
continue to work here for many years to come.<br />
14
STORIES<br />
We are great<br />
advocates of<br />
learning through<br />
play, as we truly<br />
believe this is where<br />
the value lies for<br />
children under the<br />
age of five.<br />
Kiki Linton-Aspinall<br />
I am a proud Londoner, born and raised in<br />
Islington, just opposite the beautiful New River<br />
Walk. In 1997 my mum started a new job managing<br />
a nursery in Stoke Newington, and after finishing<br />
secondary school in Marylebone, each day I would<br />
get the number 73 bus from Angel right to the<br />
end of its route. This is where my love for Stoke<br />
Newington was born. It was inevitable that once<br />
I permanently flew the nest I found myself in a<br />
four-bedroom house share in Stoke Newington. It<br />
was close to my parents, close to the bright lights<br />
of Dalston and close to my job, which at the time<br />
was managing N16 Playgroup.<br />
After running N16 Playgroup for five years,<br />
I realised that there was a need for a full day<br />
nursery in Stoke Newington to cater to the<br />
growing young population. It was then that I<br />
decided to open N16 Tots. Based on Defoe Road,<br />
N16 Tots is a small nursery with a wonderful sense<br />
of community and home-like feel. Our main ethos<br />
is that by being a small nursery we help each child<br />
to feel that they are special. I personally know<br />
each and every child and parent that is part of our<br />
nursery, which means I am best placed to ensure<br />
that everybody’s needs are being met.<br />
I have always enjoyed working with children;<br />
I attended a Montessori primary school as a<br />
child, and my mum is also a qualified Montessori<br />
teacher. This meant that from an early<br />
age, I was encouraged to pursue my<br />
own interests, which usually resulted in<br />
spending time in the nursery, helping to<br />
feed the children and put them to sleep.<br />
These experiences directly shaped the<br />
path that I took later in life. Although<br />
we do not call ourselves a Montessori<br />
nursery, the underlying principles of<br />
Montessori undoubtedly shape the way<br />
N16 Tots and N16 Playgroup operate. We<br />
are great advocates of learning through<br />
play, as we truly believe this is where<br />
the value lies for children under the age<br />
of five. We encourage all children to be<br />
independent, and help them to explore<br />
their own interests, all whilst having a<br />
brilliant time!<br />
When I go out in Stokey I love<br />
frequenting the pubs, restaurants and<br />
the nightlife of Dalston – usually all on the<br />
same evening – rounded off with a 2am<br />
amble to the one and only Best Kebab.<br />
I love working in Stoke-Newington.<br />
I love the diversity, the village-like<br />
appeal, and the sense of belonging<br />
to a community. I really hope that as<br />
new residents move into the area,<br />
they will continue to support the small<br />
independent businesses that truly make<br />
Stoke Newington the wonderful and<br />
amazing place it is today.<br />
15
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PROPERTY<br />
N16 postcode still<br />
offers good value<br />
to tenants with<br />
the average price<br />
for a two bedroom<br />
apartment around<br />
£470 per week<br />
N16: a strong<br />
market for tenants<br />
Daren Haysom, Foxtons’ area director for<br />
northeast London, explains why Stoke Newington,<br />
Dalston and Hackney remain highly attractive -<br />
and affordable - for people wanting to rent<br />
Unlike the sales market,<br />
which can be heavily<br />
influenced by a number<br />
of external factors, the<br />
lettings market is mainly<br />
led by demand. In Stoke<br />
Newington and the rest<br />
of the N16 postcode, demand remains<br />
strong. With a high rate of renewals<br />
and limited stock available, the ratio of<br />
potential tenants per property on our<br />
books at present averages 12:1.<br />
Due to their property portfolio<br />
comprising predominantly of Victorian<br />
family homes with three bedrooms and<br />
up, the Stoke Newington, Dalston and<br />
Hackney areas attract a high number<br />
of families and professional sharers.<br />
Stoke Newington’s vibrant high street<br />
with its wide array of independent<br />
amenities, including world-renowned<br />
L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele and<br />
locals’ favourites such as The Good<br />
Egg and Zona coffee shop, can rival<br />
the more established high street in<br />
Islington. N16 is known for its good<br />
sense of community and family-friendly<br />
atmosphere, sought-after primary<br />
schools such as Grasmere and William<br />
Patten, and easy access to London’s<br />
financial districts, all adding to the<br />
appeal of the area.<br />
The N16 postcode still offers good<br />
value to tenants, with the average price<br />
for a two bedroom apartment around<br />
£470 per week, which is approximately<br />
15% lower than in the nearby Highbury<br />
and Islington areas. The corporate<br />
lettings market is also well-developed<br />
in and around N16, a popular area for<br />
insurance companies to temporarily rehome<br />
their clients on a short-term basis.<br />
Another point of difference in the N16<br />
lettings market is that 95% of its landlord<br />
base consist of either small-scale private<br />
landlords or “accidental landlords”, those<br />
with only one property to let that came<br />
into their possession by circumstance<br />
(couples moving in together, family<br />
inheritance etc.) rather than as a planned<br />
investment purchase. This ensures a<br />
higher standard of properties to let, as<br />
many landlords have taken pride and care<br />
in the place they used to call home, which<br />
in return benefits tenants.<br />
The latter becomes especially<br />
important in light of the new regulations<br />
effective from 6 April this year, which<br />
will see a 25% reduction in mortgage<br />
interest relief on additional properties,<br />
gradually set to increase to 100% by<br />
2020. This will bring into perspective the<br />
value of an increase in rent in comparison<br />
to tenant retention to avoid the void<br />
period between tenancies. Our advice to<br />
landlords is that tenant care has never<br />
been more important; similarly, most<br />
tenants want security of tenure for at<br />
least a few years, therefore establishing<br />
good relationships from the outset is<br />
beneficial for both parties.<br />
The London lettings market is getting<br />
ready for its busiest time of the year,<br />
usually between May and September, and<br />
we expect the market in N16 to perform<br />
strongly on a par with the previous year.<br />
28-30 Stoke Newington<br />
Church Street<br />
Stoke Newington,<br />
London N16 0LU<br />
020 3728 2100<br />
foxtons.co.uk<br />
17
18
FEATURE<br />
The home of<br />
outdoor water sports:<br />
stoke<br />
newington<br />
by Yasemin BAKAN<br />
photos mehmet er<br />
Surprised? Yes, Hackney<br />
isn’t the first place that<br />
comes to mind you think<br />
about outdoor water sports.<br />
But just behind the Castle<br />
on Green Lanes, Stoke<br />
Newington, is a place that<br />
offers precisely that.<br />
Sailing, canoeing, kayaking and openair<br />
swimming are all available here at the<br />
West Reservoir Centre.<br />
The reservoirs of Stoke Newington<br />
were built in the 19th century to supply a<br />
growing capital city’s water needs. They<br />
opened in 1833 to take clean water from<br />
the New River and store it as a clean<br />
water reserve.<br />
When the Thames Water Authority<br />
announced it no longer required the<br />
facility in 1985, it was marked up for sale.<br />
A local residents’ campaign – Save Stoke<br />
Newington Reservoirs and Filter Beds –<br />
swung into action.<br />
Rescuing the reservoirs<br />
The campaigners found themselves<br />
combatting plans to create a<br />
hypermarket on the site and, with the<br />
absence of social media, had to run<br />
petitions, fundraising raffles, stalls and<br />
closely-argued letters in an effort to get<br />
their message heard.<br />
The campaign was partially successful:<br />
the West and East Reservoirs were saved<br />
from development but not the filter beds,<br />
which were allocated to housing. There<br />
were tears and joy at the same time.<br />
A decade later in 1996, Hackney Council<br />
bought the western reservoir from the<br />
now-privatised Thames Water and began<br />
work to convert it into a water sports<br />
centre. With the help of National Lottery<br />
funds, it opened in 2003 as a leisure.<br />
Today it is located on 30 acres of water,<br />
offering courses and activities in sailing,<br />
kayaking, canoeing and other water<br />
sports for all for schools and community<br />
groups, as well as adults and young<br />
people. The centre is recognised by both<br />
the British Canoe and the Royal Yachting<br />
Association.<br />
Give it a go yourself<br />
Freddie Lovejoy, senior water sports<br />
coach, said those adults who learn to<br />
paddle at the centre will also have the<br />
opportunity to take part in activities<br />
outside the city. There will also be multiactivity<br />
weeks during the summer to<br />
introduce children to water sports.<br />
19
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FEATURE<br />
“These are usually most children’s<br />
introduction to the water sports and is<br />
all based around having fun and trying<br />
something new,” he says. “These become<br />
popular in the summer in particular.”<br />
Paddling in the sunset<br />
One of the most active groups at the West<br />
Reservoir Centre is the Castle Canoe<br />
Club, which was set up in 2000.<br />
"It is a place saved by the community<br />
for the community,” says Peter Emery,<br />
the club’s chair. “I feel that Castle Canoe<br />
Club fills in where London can lack. We<br />
have a hugely diverse membership of<br />
people that would not otherwise not<br />
meet. There’s a running joke in the club<br />
that we’re a floating social club.<br />
“We arrange trips to beautiful places<br />
around the country and beyond, often to<br />
places where members have never been<br />
before. You get a hundred new friends<br />
as part of your membership fee. Some<br />
members love high octane white water<br />
while others just like to cruise down<br />
serene rivers and our polo players are<br />
playing in national competitions.<br />
“The finest way to unwind in zone 2 has<br />
to be paddling in the sunset on a Tuesday<br />
night after work around the reservoir.”<br />
Kayaking, canoeing<br />
Kayaking and canoeing for adults takes<br />
place all year round every Sunday<br />
between 10am and 1pm, and additionally<br />
There’s a running<br />
joke in the club that<br />
we’re a floating<br />
social club<br />
on a Tuesday night between 6pm and<br />
8pm from April to October.<br />
Club welfare officer Kate Dornan says<br />
anyone interested in becoming a member<br />
should do an induction session: “These<br />
are fortnightly and cover the basics of<br />
health and safety as well as paddling<br />
technique.<br />
“The cost is £10 for the session plus a<br />
couple of weeks' paddling while inductees<br />
decide whether to join us for the year.<br />
Membership currently costs £105 per<br />
year, with concessions available as well as<br />
reduced joining fees later in the year.”<br />
Dates and further information<br />
are available on the club’s website,<br />
castlecanoeclub.co.uk. Castle Canoe Club<br />
members get a discounted rate on the<br />
centre’s lessons.<br />
Set sail on the waters<br />
The club also organises field trips around<br />
London – or even out of the country. Sea<br />
kayaking on the Thames, paddling, river<br />
trips, and kayak surfing are combined<br />
with annual trips to Ireland and the Alps.<br />
There’s also a polo team that competes in<br />
regional and national leagues, and hosts a<br />
tournament on the West Reservoir twice<br />
annually.<br />
There is a sailing group here – the<br />
North London Sailing Association,<br />
headed by Caroline Brown – although it<br />
does not offer NLSA sailing courses, and<br />
members must have a level 2 qualification<br />
from the West Reservoir Centre (or an<br />
equivalent) before joining.<br />
“Members don't need to have their own<br />
boats as they can use the boats owned by<br />
the West Reservoir Centre,” Brown says.<br />
“There are a mix of double and single<br />
hander boats. We also have a coastal base<br />
at Brightlingsea Essex, where we own<br />
a small property and 6 wayfarer boats.<br />
During the summer months, we run<br />
cruising weekends, some more advanced<br />
training (seamanship skills and level 3)<br />
and also have a camping weekend.”<br />
Membership is for £140 for adults<br />
and £70 for children per annum. For<br />
further information, check their website:<br />
northlondonsailing.org<br />
The Youth Club, provides young people<br />
between 8-17 years old the opportunity<br />
to participate in dinghy sailing, kayaking<br />
and canoeing. Membership is for £102 per<br />
annum.<br />
21
Radically<br />
different on<br />
the inside<br />
by Carrie O’Grady<br />
‘<br />
Believe in Good’, says<br />
the sign outside the<br />
church. Hang on, isn’t<br />
that an extra ‘o’ in there?<br />
It isn’t, oddly enough.<br />
The New Unity, on the<br />
north side of Newington<br />
Green, is not like other churches: they<br />
don’t believe in God, heaven and hell,<br />
saints’n’sinners, or any of the other<br />
theological trappings we associate with<br />
traditional religions.<br />
You may have seen it from the 73 bus<br />
dozens of times without realising what<br />
an extraordinary institution it is.<br />
“One of our problems is that from the<br />
outside, you can’t see what happens<br />
on the inside,” says the minister, Rev.<br />
Andrew Pakula (everyone calls him<br />
Andy). “We had one guy who thought<br />
the people here would be really dour,<br />
all wearing black, with black hats – like<br />
a cross between the Quakers and a<br />
funeral.”<br />
In fact the congregation are a diverse<br />
mix of friendly, thoughtful locals,<br />
attracted by the church’s focus on<br />
hope, social activism, compassion and<br />
“radical inclusivity”: literally anyone is<br />
welcome.<br />
“Our primary principle is that every<br />
person matters,” says Andy. “That<br />
drives a strong impetus towards<br />
developing relationships – one of the<br />
most important things we do in life.<br />
Even, perhaps, with people we don’t<br />
know, who might seem strange or<br />
22
community<br />
Andrew Pakula<br />
One of our problems<br />
is that from the<br />
outside, you can’t<br />
see what happens<br />
on the inside<br />
together, sharing joys and sorrows and<br />
finding comfort when it’s needed.”<br />
And let’s not forget the next<br />
generation. Many Stokey families<br />
take advantage of the church’s<br />
excellent children’s programme, which<br />
mixes games and crafts with lively<br />
introductions to issues such as racism<br />
and prejudice. Next January, Andy<br />
hostile – people who might have fewer<br />
privileges. We want to bring back the idea<br />
of love in the public domain.”<br />
Coming from anyone else, that might<br />
sound airy-fairy, but the New Unitarians<br />
are firmly committed to positive action.<br />
Back in 2008, when the Civil Partnership<br />
Act still forbade same-sex couples from<br />
tying the knot in a religious setting,<br />
the New Unity decided to stop hosting<br />
heterosexual marriage ceremonies in<br />
protest.<br />
“We just thought, that’s discriminatory,”<br />
Andy says. “They [the government] were<br />
saying, yeah, it’s OK for you people to get<br />
together, but not in a place where God’s<br />
watching.” The church teamed up with the<br />
Liberal Jews and the Quakers to oppose<br />
the ban, which was lifted in 2011.<br />
Today, they work harder than ever to<br />
make our society a better, fairer place.<br />
The church’s Social Responsibility Team<br />
works closely with Hackney Citizens, an<br />
offshoot of the community organising<br />
group Citizens UK, on projects such<br />
as resettling Syrian migrants, ousting<br />
rogue landlords and campaigning<br />
for a “living wage” (as opposed to the<br />
existing minimum wage). Members<br />
of the congregation volunteer to do<br />
pastoral care or help out with the Sunday<br />
gatherings, which manage to combine<br />
singing and celebrating with the serious<br />
business of crafting strategies to deal<br />
with the fallout from Trump and Brexit.<br />
People without time to spare can share<br />
in the good works by<br />
making a contribution<br />
to the weekly collection,<br />
which goes to a number of<br />
different charities, benefiting<br />
those most in need: the homeless,<br />
impoverished elderly people, displaced<br />
children, and many others.<br />
One parishioner, Daniel Wilsher,<br />
has been singing in the church choir<br />
for two years. “There is a real sense of<br />
mystery and energy about being part of<br />
a community of value where ‘the faith’<br />
is not written down in a book,” he says.<br />
“Instead it emerges from and is lived by<br />
its diverse membership. It’s a journey<br />
with an unknown destination, but it’s<br />
also about the pure enjoyment of singing<br />
A picture of Mary<br />
Wollstonecraft on the<br />
church wall<br />
plans to start a “comingof-age<br />
programme2 for<br />
young people aged 12 to<br />
14, “helping kids to explore<br />
their own values, perspectives,<br />
beliefs or lack thereof – a sort of<br />
Unitarian version of the bar mitzvah.”<br />
Watching over it all is the ghost of<br />
former parishioner Mary Wollstonecraft,<br />
the pioneering feminist, immortalised by<br />
ex-local street artist Stewy in a striking<br />
life-size stencil on the church’s west wall.<br />
It’s still possible to sit in her old pew,<br />
#19; the wooden benches are unchanged<br />
since the 18th century. If you concentrate,<br />
you might just sense a trace of her bold,<br />
heretical, dissenting spirit lingering in<br />
the New Unity air.<br />
23
The<br />
Delicious<br />
Guide<br />
TO Hackney<br />
N16 Life Magazine uncovers the gems in our local cuisine<br />
that celebrates the diverse culture on offer in our area.<br />
A voyage of fine<br />
dining tastes<br />
Perilla Dining<br />
Perilla Dining is a restaurant serving<br />
high-quality European dishes with<br />
a creative twist in a fine dining<br />
setting. Its menu changes every day, giving<br />
customers the opportunity to discover<br />
different tastes, which is perhaps why<br />
the team describes its offering as “fine<br />
dining without the fuss”. The Cuttlefish<br />
Bolognese (£11) is particularly tasty, while<br />
the preserved plum custard and pears<br />
poached in wine and citrus (£7) and blood<br />
orange custard with olive oil will change<br />
your understanding of what dessert is!<br />
1-3 Green Lanes, London N16 9BS<br />
020 7359 0779<br />
perilladining.co.uk<br />
24
FOOD<br />
Neighbourhood favourite<br />
Floyds<br />
On Dalston Lane, a quiet turning off<br />
the busy main drag of Shacklewell<br />
Lane, is a restaurant serving<br />
modern European cuisine. The cost and<br />
intimate setting – both its location and its<br />
interior décor – makes Floyds somewhere<br />
special: turquoise blues transport you to<br />
the seaside and make you feel like you’re<br />
on holiday. The service is friendly and<br />
casual. We went for the pan-fried dover<br />
sole, fennel, blood orange, sea vegetable<br />
salad (£19). A light and nourishing choice<br />
for the summer.<br />
89 Shacklewell Lane, E8 2EB<br />
020 7923 7714<br />
floydsonthelane.co.uk<br />
Home cooking, Eastern<br />
Turkey style<br />
Istanbul Restaurant<br />
Istanbul Restaurant is known for its<br />
grilled kebabs, but its menu also<br />
boasts an array of regional Turkish<br />
dishes.<br />
Saçkavurma – a mincemeat and<br />
vegetable fry; aubergine-based<br />
karnıyarık and Turkish-style casserole<br />
are just a few of the lesser-visited<br />
dishes on offer.<br />
Stuffed içliköfte, specially prepared<br />
by local Turkish women, is a delicacy in<br />
Turkey’s east and southeast. It consists<br />
of a cracked-wheat shell filled with<br />
minced meat, spices, minced onions<br />
and parsley and is served with yoghurt.<br />
Restaurant owner HüseyinÜzüm,<br />
who hails from the southern city of<br />
Kahramanmaraş, says he is delighted to<br />
offer his home cuisine in Dalston.<br />
9 Stoke Newington Rd, N16 8BH<br />
020 7254 7291<br />
istanbulrestaurant.co.uk<br />
Nepalese dumplings<br />
House of Momo<br />
Serving momos, one of the most<br />
popular dishes in Nepal, the House<br />
of Momo is one the locals’ favourites.<br />
These are dough wraps with a meat or<br />
vegetable filling accompanied by spicy<br />
dipping sauce.<br />
There are steamed or steam-fried<br />
options, all served in a relaxing canteencafé<br />
atmosphere alongside other dishes<br />
from Nepal. The restaurant is run by<br />
Shubha Giri from Kathmandu and also<br />
serves fresh “Thali Bowls” with aloo gobi<br />
curry, palak paneer, rice, daal, parathas<br />
and mango pickle. Along with Nepalese<br />
food, they serve Nepalese Himalayan<br />
organic coffee roasted locally and local<br />
craft beers. Prices start at just £4.<br />
52 Boleyn Road, London, N16 8JP<br />
020 3632 4208<br />
Eclectic British food<br />
Victory Mansion<br />
This establishment, with its name<br />
coming from Orwell’s Nineteen<br />
Eighty-Four, is run by a team of five.<br />
World-class cocktails & eclectic British<br />
food on Stoke Newington High Street<br />
in the form of this beautiful, hand-built<br />
neighbourhood bar. Victory Mansion pays<br />
homage to the most significant literature,<br />
food and drink that has inspired London<br />
over the last Century.<br />
Chef Sam Wilkinson brings his unique<br />
take on eclectic, casual dining, inspired<br />
by his time with Ottolenghi, Bentlies<br />
and Cole pepper. Stuart Binks and Benji<br />
Purslow put their names to an inventive<br />
cocktail list they can finally call their own.<br />
Cauliflower & turmeric bellini, poached<br />
river trout, pomegranate & lemon balm<br />
(£9), Braised beef cheek, purple sprouting<br />
broccoli, horseradish &cashel blue cream,<br />
apple salad(£10) are light and charming.<br />
A bottomless brunch is served every<br />
Saturday and Sunday(£17,50)<br />
18 Stoke Newington High Street, N16 7PL<br />
020 3441 6900;<br />
victorymansion.co.uk<br />
25
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Ingrid knows vast amounts<br />
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so that she has been running an airy,<br />
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manicures and massages for five years.<br />
The treatments you receive are agreed<br />
with you after an analysis of your skin.<br />
They can range from personalised facials<br />
that create a beautiful complexion<br />
whatever your skin condition, to reviving<br />
body treatments designed to help you<br />
relax and unwind.<br />
Rather than picking from a menu of<br />
options, you simply tell your therapist<br />
how long you want you facial to last<br />
(costing between £33 and £120) and<br />
Ingrid takes care of everything else.<br />
Treatments are complimented by<br />
a range of unique products such as<br />
SkinCeuticals, Medik8 and Niod.<br />
My 90-minute facial included an<br />
intensive face and head massage; peeling<br />
and cold jade rollers; a nourishing and<br />
moisturising mask; and<br />
a dermapen treatment.<br />
The change and renewal<br />
in my skin was visible the<br />
following day.<br />
Ingrid knows that each<br />
person’s skin has different<br />
needs, which is why every<br />
Hackney resident must<br />
visit for her professional know-how<br />
and expert bespoke care. For further<br />
information, visit her website.<br />
ingridraphael.com<br />
+44 (0) 7814 361028<br />
The One-Stop Shop
FOOD<br />
CHAMPAGNE<br />
LIMONCELLO COCKTAIL<br />
SERVES 8<br />
• 1 lemon wedge, cut for rims<br />
• 8 lemon rind strips<br />
• 8 tbsp Limoncello<br />
• 4 tsp fresh lemon juice<br />
• 1 bottle Champagne, chilled<br />
A lemony zest<br />
for summer<br />
A new collection of recipes based around perhaps<br />
the most popular citrus – the Lemon Compendium<br />
– is now available from Yasemin Kaner-White.<br />
Sugar the glass rims by rubbing a cut<br />
lemon wedge around the rim of each<br />
glass, then dip in sugar. Next, roll up<br />
the strips of lemon rind and place one<br />
into each of the champagne flutes.<br />
Add 1 tbsp Limoncello and ½ tsp juice<br />
to each glass. Divide champagne<br />
evenly among glasses.<br />
Serve immediately.<br />
The book is the result of months of<br />
research, tasting and travelling<br />
and offers a varied account of all<br />
things lemony. It’s not just food –<br />
health, beauty and household tips, lemon<br />
festivals in Europe, as well as historical<br />
accounts can be found alongside the<br />
lemonlicious recipies.<br />
LEMON SORBET<br />
IN LEMON SHELLS<br />
• 8 large lemons<br />
• 340g sugar<br />
• 360ml water<br />
Cut off the top third of the lemons, not the<br />
stem end, and reserve for the ‘cap.’ Hollow<br />
out each lemon, putting the juice and flesh<br />
(not the pips or pith) into a blender. Slice<br />
a little off the bottom of each lemon shell,<br />
being careful not to cut through to the<br />
inside of the lemon. This will make them<br />
sit straight when placed on a plate.<br />
Freeze the shells at least 1 hour or<br />
overnight. Then fill with sorbet (made as<br />
per instructions below) and freeze again.<br />
To make the sorbet, combine the sugar,<br />
lemon juice and water in a saucepan, over<br />
a medium heat, stir until the sugar has<br />
dissolved. Stir the lemon zest. Remove<br />
from heat, set aside allowing to cool.<br />
Methods<br />
Ice Cream Maker – transfer mixture to<br />
ice cream maker, process according to<br />
manufacturer's instructions.<br />
Freezer Method – pour into container,<br />
cover and place mixture in the freezer.<br />
When it is semi-solid, rack up with a fork<br />
and freeze again.<br />
Fill each frozen lemon shell with the<br />
sorbet, top off with a lemon cap, freeze<br />
again until completely frozen, then serve.<br />
This delicious pudding can be prepared<br />
2–3 days in advance, simply keep covered<br />
in a container stored in.<br />
27
FOOD<br />
WATERMELON, LEMON<br />
& ROSEMARY SLURP<br />
• 500ml water<br />
• 185g caster sugar<br />
• 2 sprigs rosemary stripped & chopped<br />
• 18 lemons, juice only<br />
• 1 medium watermelon, de-seeded & cubed<br />
• 8 cups ice cubes<br />
Over a high heat bring the water and<br />
sugar to a boil in a saucepan. Stir in the<br />
rosemary, and set aside to steep for 1 hour.<br />
Place the lemon juice with the watermelon<br />
in a blender.<br />
Strain the rosemary syrup through a<br />
mesh strainer into the blender, puree until<br />
smooth. Refrigerate until very cold, give it<br />
a good stir before serving over ice.<br />
LEMON STYLE<br />
COUSCOUS<br />
I like to eat this with lamb chops, but it<br />
accompanies most meats or fish, as well<br />
as being a meal on its own perhaps with<br />
some grilled haloumi for the vegetarians<br />
out there...<br />
SERVES 4<br />
Libya<br />
CUSCUS BIL-BOSLA<br />
Libya's national dish, traditionally<br />
shared and eaten from one large bowl,<br />
accompanied by small salad's, and a<br />
host of other snacks surrounding it, for<br />
example dolma (rice and mince stuffed<br />
bell peppers) however, the dish alone, is<br />
certainly satisfying…<br />
• ½ tsp cinnamon<br />
• 2 tsp cumin seeds<br />
• 3 tsp turmeric<br />
• 2 tsp dried chilli flakes<br />
• 90ml olive oil<br />
• 4 large cloves garlic<br />
• 2 large onions, sliced<br />
• 600g lamb leg meat, cubed<br />
• 2 potatoes, cubed<br />
• 2 tsp salt<br />
• 880ml boiling water<br />
• 2 tbsp tomato paste<br />
• 230g cooked chickpeas<br />
• 1 lemon, juice & zest<br />
• 400g couscous<br />
• Pinch salt<br />
• Garnish<br />
• 2 lemons, wedges<br />
Begin by pounding together the spices<br />
in a mortar and pestle, set aside. Heat<br />
50ml olive oil in a large frying pan, add<br />
the onions and meat, cook until the<br />
onions start to caramelise, throw in the<br />
potato and 1 tsp salt, stir until golden.<br />
Transfer to a casserole dish, de-glaze<br />
the pan by pouring 480ml water into<br />
the frying pan, collecting all the pan<br />
juices, pour into the casserole dish. Now<br />
add the spices and tomato paste, stir<br />
well, cooking until potatoes are soft and<br />
then add the chickpeas, lemon juice and<br />
zest.<br />
Next cook the couscous, place in a<br />
bowl with 400ml boiling water, 40ml<br />
olive oil and 1 tsp salt, stir and cover<br />
with cling film, leave for 10 minutes.<br />
When the couscous is ready, place on a<br />
serving plate topped off with the lamb<br />
mixture, serve with lemon wedges.<br />
BLUEBERRY & LEMON<br />
RICOTTA CAKE<br />
GLUTEN FREE<br />
• 250g ricotta cheese<br />
• 140g soft butter<br />
• 140g ground almonds<br />
• 140g golden caster sugar<br />
• 6 medium eggs, separated<br />
• 1 lemon, zest & juice<br />
• 75g dried blueberries<br />
• 25g fine polenta flour<br />
• Icing sugar, for dusting<br />
Heat the oven to 180ºC. Grease and<br />
line the base of a 23cm diameter<br />
spring-form tin. Put the ricotta, butter,<br />
almonds, sugar and egg yolks in a large<br />
bowl and beat together with a wooden<br />
spoon until creamy. Add the lemon zest<br />
and juice with the dried blueberries.<br />
Whisk the egg whites in a clean bowl<br />
until they peak softly. Fold the polenta<br />
into the ricotta mixture, then gently<br />
fold in the whisked egg whites. Pour<br />
the cake mix into the prepared tin<br />
and bake for 35 minutes. The cake is<br />
cooked when it is golden and just firm<br />
to the touch. Allow it to cool in the tin,<br />
then transfer to a serving plate and<br />
dust with the icing sugar before<br />
serving up.<br />
N16 Life readers get<br />
FREE POSTAGE if they are<br />
order a copy of the Lemon<br />
Compendium for £25.<br />
Email yasemen@parmuto.com<br />
and mention this magazine<br />
when ordering. Signed<br />
copies also available.<br />
28
Q&A<br />
You are a professional musician. What<br />
drew you to a career as a chef? Where<br />
does your love of cooking come from?<br />
Cooking is something that has always<br />
been a huge part of my life. Over<br />
the years music and cooking have<br />
become inextricably linked. I think<br />
the inspiration for both comes from<br />
the same place, both are a way of<br />
communicating with other people.<br />
Good food<br />
that tastes<br />
amazing<br />
Musician, broadcaster, cook and Great<br />
British Menu judge Andi Oliver has<br />
opened her first restaurant in Stoke<br />
Newington Church Street<br />
You have got two jobs-was that<br />
transition difficult?<br />
I've always had a few jobs so no! It's<br />
weirder for me to only be doing one<br />
thing at a time.<br />
What is your favourite kind of food to<br />
cook and why?<br />
I love it all really, and the lovely thing<br />
about what we're doing at Andi's is that<br />
I can explore all kinds of cooking. We<br />
have our all-day brunch setup which<br />
is more hearty and comforting. Then<br />
at night we get to be more refined: the<br />
most important thing for me is the<br />
yummy factor, it has to be delicious!<br />
Is there any particular reason you've<br />
chosen to open your restaurant in<br />
Stokey?<br />
Well I only live down the road in Clapton<br />
and have done for about 18 years, so<br />
Stokey is part of my stomping ground,<br />
and I've always spent time here and<br />
when this particular site came up we fell<br />
in love with it, it has such a great vibe<br />
and just fit our needs perfectly.<br />
29
Q&A<br />
We're calling it<br />
'down home fancy<br />
food', a little bit of<br />
something lovely<br />
for everyone<br />
boyfriend he made some particularly<br />
weird scrambled eggs the other day? He<br />
insists on putting all sorts of soy sauce<br />
and chillies in them. I am NOT, as they<br />
say, “feeling it”.<br />
Have you ever had any major<br />
disasters on TV?<br />
When we did Christmas Kitchen we<br />
were cooking five dishes a day and a few<br />
Could you tell us about the restaurant?<br />
At Andi's we're aiming to create a real<br />
neighbourhood vibe, a home from home<br />
where people can relax, enjoy themselves,<br />
get delicious food and drinks. We're<br />
calling it 'down home fancy food', a little<br />
bit of something lovely for everyone.<br />
Why did you choose green colour for<br />
the facade?<br />
All of the design for the restaurant is by<br />
Debs Armstrong from strong&co, she's<br />
a genius and she's a Stokey resident<br />
actually! Her use of colour and light in the<br />
design and her attention to detail, has<br />
blown me away, I'm in love with it all.<br />
What's cooking in the<br />
restaurant kitchen?<br />
Well we've got all our gorgeous brunch<br />
dishes, baked eggs, energy bowls with<br />
roast seasonal vegetables & chargrilled<br />
proteins like shrimp, or halloumi, lamb<br />
chops or tofu, then you've got a French<br />
toast bacon sandwich with maple syrup<br />
and a fried egg or a salt beef Reuben's!<br />
Then at night our newest special is<br />
a seared lamb rump, bubble & squeak<br />
cake topped with cuttlefish ink aioli, I'm<br />
pretty excited about it! For vegans or<br />
vegetarians I'm working with a green pea<br />
socca, pickled and pan roasted spring<br />
vegetables and a watercress cream (made<br />
with avocado and hazelnut milk). Like it<br />
says on the window: beautiful things for<br />
everyone!<br />
Where did you get the best<br />
and worst food?<br />
I am rather a big fan of<br />
Escosesa down the road from<br />
us actually. Gorgeous tapas,<br />
brilliant drinks made by brilliant<br />
chefs in a lovely environment, works<br />
perfectly for me! We've also been going<br />
up to Hackney road to Bad Sports for<br />
incredible Tacos, I like to go to the<br />
flower market then pop in to see what<br />
they've got on their grill yesterday. It<br />
was an amazing lamb barbacoa, jalapeño<br />
special - blooming delicious! At the other<br />
end of the spectrum, whilst I love my<br />
things got rushed I had a<br />
nightmare with some filo<br />
pastry that just kept tearing<br />
and sticking to everything.<br />
Luckily “one I made earlier” was<br />
to hand but it went into the oven<br />
looking like I'd dropped it at least three<br />
times!<br />
What do you think will be the next big<br />
food trend?<br />
I think that people want food that is<br />
good for them but still tastes amazing!<br />
Colourful, well sourced, delicious AND<br />
healthy! We CAN have it all!<br />
30
Bira, the world’s first<br />
ever beer for kebabs!<br />
DISTRIBUTION<br />
info@biralondon.com | www.biralondon.com<br />
BiraLDN<br />
Bira London<br />
Brantwood Road,<br />
London N17 0DX<br />
020 8801 0101
• Double Room<br />
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W: www.global-lodge.com • E: info@global-lodge.com<br />
LODGE<br />
GLOBAL LODGE.indd 1 22/05/2017 03:07
REVIEW<br />
It’s great fun trying<br />
to stay still as you<br />
navigate swings,<br />
ladders and a highaltitude<br />
zip wire<br />
Walking<br />
above the trees<br />
Go Ape, well-known around the country for its<br />
adventure courses, has opened its second branch<br />
in North London in Alexandra Palace<br />
Being out in the open air is<br />
a therapeutic, soothing<br />
experience. It makes you<br />
happier and feel more at<br />
ease with yourself. This is<br />
especially true of children,<br />
who will delight at the<br />
experience of Go Ape – an unrivalled<br />
opportunity to spent time in a forest and<br />
find their inner Tarzan.<br />
But walking above the trees? Don’t<br />
worry, they tie you in a secure harness<br />
so that even if you trip, you won’t fall. I<br />
went with a friend who was nervous about<br />
her safety and badgered the Go Ape<br />
team with just about every silly question<br />
she could think of. They were calm and<br />
reassuring as they told her there was<br />
nothing to be afraid of.<br />
The worst-case scenario was falling off<br />
the swings and staying suspended in midair<br />
– which would amuse the children and<br />
parents around us, but nothing more.<br />
But I have to say that those innocentlooking<br />
swings were a lot higher up than<br />
they appeared from the ground. It was<br />
such a thrill to look down below – you<br />
really feel the adrenaline pumping. But<br />
the harnesses do their job and reassure<br />
you as move along the course.<br />
It’s great fun trying to stay still as you<br />
navigate swings, ladders and a highaltitude<br />
zip wire. The experience takes<br />
about one hour in all, depending how fast<br />
you go.<br />
It was a rainy day when we went, which<br />
we thought would be unsuitable for this<br />
kind of activity – but this was not the<br />
case. In fact, the mud made it all the more<br />
fun: rain is perfectly fine, but thundery<br />
conditions are not suitable for Go Ape.<br />
Both my friend – who has a fear of<br />
heights – and I were able to navigate the<br />
challenging Tree Top Junior without<br />
getting stuck in mid-air. It was such a<br />
delight to complete an outdoor activity<br />
like this.<br />
Go Ape Alexandra Palace is a healthy<br />
family day out combining adrenaline,<br />
open air and physical activity. We’ll be<br />
back with our nephews and nieces before<br />
you know it.<br />
Go Ape’s prices start from £18.<br />
Visit goape.co.uk<br />
33
Unleash your<br />
CREATIVITY<br />
Is that beautiful piece of furniture in the corner of<br />
your room gathering dust? Are you desperate to<br />
learn how to bake? If you’re a creative type with<br />
itchy hands raring to go, Hackney has some of the<br />
best courses you could ask for<br />
ARTISAN BREADMAKING<br />
ARTISAN BREADMAKING<br />
Abbot Street Car Park, London E8 3DP<br />
craftfood.london<br />
If the Great British Bake Off leaves you<br />
feeling inspired, or you’ve ever wanted<br />
to know how to make great bread,<br />
this is your opportunity to learn from<br />
the best. The course is run by one of the<br />
expert bakers at The Dusty Knuckle, an<br />
artisan micro-bakery based in a cleverly<br />
converted shipping container, five<br />
minutes from Dalston Junction.<br />
With three professional deck ovens,<br />
the bakery supplies some of the best local<br />
restaurants and delis, as well as selling<br />
bread at weekend farmers’ markets.<br />
They do two classes. The first is an<br />
introductory half-day course (£75) which<br />
runs on Tuesday evenings where they<br />
teach you the basics of making amazing<br />
artisan bread in your own home, baking<br />
a yeasted dough in the bakery and then<br />
making a proper sourdough which guests<br />
then take home to bake the next day. The<br />
evening is rounded off with a rustic meal<br />
and a glass of wine.<br />
The other course is a full day artisan<br />
bread masterclass (£135), which runs on<br />
Sundays from 9.30am. On the course<br />
guests make different types of bread<br />
including sourdough, slow fermented<br />
white (yeasted dough), focaccia, soda<br />
& walnut & raisin bread. The course<br />
includes lunch, delicious coffee and<br />
refreshments through the day.<br />
Courses run every four weeks and the<br />
latest dates are on the website.<br />
Introduction to Breadmaking: Tuesday<br />
13 June and every four weeks thereafter.<br />
Artisan Bread Masterclass: Sunday 2nd<br />
July and every four weeks thereafter.<br />
34
SUMMER COURSES<br />
Cocktail Masterclasses<br />
in Kingsland Road<br />
Woodworking techniques<br />
Woodworking techniques<br />
Unit 3 Fountayne House,<br />
Fountayne Road, N15 4QL<br />
furnitureschool.co.uk<br />
The London School of Furniture<br />
Making offers short courses to<br />
enthusiastic Londoners keen to<br />
learn traditional woodworking<br />
techniques. The school has a suite of<br />
basic skills classes which lead on to<br />
project-based courses where you can<br />
make a box, coffee table or chair.<br />
Once you feel comfortable with handling<br />
the tools you can go to their supervised<br />
Reupholster that old chair<br />
Every guest gets<br />
their own area at<br />
a bar station<br />
access sessions and make a small project<br />
of your own. If you're not sure whether<br />
you'll like working in wood or just want to<br />
try them out, then you might be interested<br />
in a 2.5hr taster class.<br />
Small classes ensure that you will get<br />
plenty of time to discuss and review your<br />
progress with your tutor Helen. Classes<br />
run 9.00 till 4.00 Monday to Friday and<br />
some evenings 6.00 till 9.00.<br />
Course fees start at £55.<br />
Reupholster<br />
that old chair<br />
The School of Stuff<br />
B002, Lighthouse Studios,<br />
89A Shacklewell Lane,<br />
Dalston, E8 2EB<br />
theschoolofstuff.co.uk<br />
The School of Stuff is a studio<br />
dedicated to teaching furniture<br />
crafts in Dalston running four<br />
five-day intensive courses over<br />
the summer. One of the courses, Modern<br />
Upholstery, runs between 17 and 21 July<br />
2017 (£475.00), which covers modern<br />
upholstery techniques. Familiarise<br />
yourself with material, and learn<br />
techniques, such as how to cut and shape<br />
foam, how to make a pattern for a new<br />
top cover for your modern chair, and how<br />
to use a sewing machine accurately to<br />
make a perfectly fitting fixed cover.<br />
The other course is Project Upholstery,<br />
running between Monday 4 and Friday 8<br />
September 2017. The five-day intensive<br />
project based session will teach you the<br />
techniques required to reupholster a<br />
chair of your choice. Price £475.00.<br />
Cocktail Masterclasses<br />
in Kingsland Road<br />
TT Liquor, 17B Kingsland Road,<br />
London E2 8AA<br />
ttliquor.co.uk/cocktail-making-classes<br />
Drawing upon a decade’s worth<br />
of experience, the team behind<br />
Kingsland Road’s newly<br />
opened TT Liquor introduce<br />
their cocktail masterclass series;<br />
entirely interactive experiences taught<br />
by a seasoned industry mixologists.<br />
Completely interactive, every guest<br />
gets their own area at a bar station to<br />
make a selection of varied cocktails<br />
with their own equipment, guided by an<br />
experienced mixologist.<br />
Fitting up to 5 people per workstation,<br />
the cocktail classes are perfect for larger<br />
classes, whilst smaller groups can get a<br />
more intimate experience at their own<br />
station.<br />
Guests can choose from one<br />
of four classes: Cocktail Making<br />
Classes, Molecular Cocktail Classes, Gin<br />
Cocktail Classes, Rum Cocktail Classes.<br />
Price £70.<br />
35
THE BIRDCAGE<br />
BAR + KITCHEN<br />
58 Stamford Hill, London N16 6XS<br />
thebirdcageN16.co.uk • @thebirdcageN16<br />
Tel: 020 8 8069077
FEATURE<br />
Hackney:<br />
London’s fashion<br />
capital<br />
Home to the studios of such fashion designers<br />
as Christopher Kane, Simon Rocha, Bora Aksu,<br />
Roksanda Ilincic, Hackney has long been on the<br />
fashion industry’s radar. But a luxury outlet zone<br />
– London’s first – in Hackney Walk promises to<br />
place the borough firmly on the map<br />
37
FEATURE<br />
Globally recognised<br />
brands like Burberry,<br />
Anya Hindmarch,<br />
Aquascutum and<br />
Pringle of Scotland<br />
already had an<br />
established outlet<br />
presence in Hackney Walk, but it was the<br />
wider development of the area that really<br />
caught the industry’s attention – and that<br />
of tourists.<br />
£6 million was raised in regeneration<br />
fund started after the riots swept this<br />
part of London in 2011. Hackney Walk has<br />
been transformed into the capital’s first<br />
luxury outlet zone, having opened at the<br />
end of 2016 on Morning Lane opposite the<br />
old Burberry factory.<br />
Twelve formerly unused railways arches<br />
unite them, converted into beautiful retail<br />
spaces by renowned British architect<br />
David Adjaye. It is rapidly becoming a<br />
major attraction for London.<br />
The Hackney Walk project emerged<br />
in 2011 after that summer’s riots, when<br />
Hackney Council received a £2 million<br />
post-riot regeneration injection of funds<br />
and spent it on transforming East London<br />
into a fashion centre once again. A<br />
further £4 million was spent by Network<br />
Rail on restoring the arches.<br />
This area was a centre for clothesmaking<br />
and the textiles industry until the<br />
1990s. Hackney Walk is now riving that<br />
spirit in 2017, a tradition that stretches<br />
back to the 19th Century when 15,000<br />
people were employed in factories and<br />
workshops across Hackney.<br />
Efforts continue to transform Hackney<br />
A tradition that<br />
stretches back to<br />
the 19th century<br />
when 15,000 people<br />
worked here<br />
Walk into a venue with offices and shops<br />
on a par with Bicester Village – and more<br />
conveniently located for London.<br />
The brands on offer<br />
Hackney Walk's arches are occupied<br />
by an array of recently opened luxury<br />
outlets including: two outlet stores from<br />
MatchesFashion.com for womenswear<br />
and menswear; Gieves & Hawkes; Joseph;<br />
UGG; multi-brand concept store Present;<br />
luxury cashmere brand Colombo; Zadig &<br />
Voltaire: Folli Follie and Nicole Farhi. All<br />
retailers offer up to 70% off regular retail<br />
prices.<br />
But that’s not all. The Stitch Academy<br />
offers free-of-charge workshops and<br />
masterclasses, while the Hackney<br />
Shop organises weekend events with<br />
some of the leading names in the<br />
fashion business. There is also pop-up<br />
retail space available for independent<br />
designers.<br />
Recent pop-up outlets have included<br />
House of Sunny, Henry Holland, Mary<br />
Benson, Holly Fulton and Piers Atkinson.<br />
Good wine, good food<br />
A gastronomical treat awaits you at<br />
Hackney Walk, where Legs restaurant will<br />
provide you with a contemporary lunch<br />
with fine wines. The evening menu is<br />
particularly worth perusing.<br />
In short, Hackney Walk is more than<br />
a retail destination but a central point<br />
of fashion, arts, food and culture. It<br />
combines the world of luxury with<br />
iconic design.<br />
www.hackneywalk.com<br />
Opening Times<br />
Monday-Saturday 10.00 - 6.00 pm<br />
Sunday 11.00 - 5.00 pm<br />
39
ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE<br />
A beer only for kebabs<br />
- now in Hackney<br />
Kebabs are one of the most popular<br />
dishes in London – but does it<br />
need a beer of its own?<br />
That’s what local<br />
entrepreneur and<br />
restauranteur<br />
Ibrahim Dogus says<br />
about his new label,<br />
Bira London.<br />
Taking its name<br />
from the Turkish word for beer,<br />
the bottled beverage was officially<br />
launched in London just before<br />
Christmas.<br />
It has a secret recipe that Dogus<br />
says suits barbecue flavours and<br />
liberal use of spices. It has been<br />
described as a dry, very smooth<br />
lager with a crisp taste, a strong<br />
body and notes of barley.<br />
Bira was served during this<br />
year’s British Kebab Awards, where<br />
Dogus said: “The kebab industry is<br />
worth over £2.2 billion in the UK so<br />
it was time it had its own beer.<br />
“I’m delighted as a businessman<br />
to be launching an iconic drink into<br />
a fiercely competitive marketplace.<br />
It would also be fantastic if people<br />
fall in love with the beer and<br />
discover what top end cuisine<br />
means for the kebab as a result.”<br />
The drink is available across N16<br />
in such venues as Melek Kitchen,<br />
Hasan Meze Mangal Restaurant<br />
and Bella Vita restaurant in<br />
Hackney Broadway Market.<br />
Eat In<br />
Take Out<br />
Hot/Cold Sandwiches<br />
Breakfast<br />
Daily Soup<br />
Homemade Cakes<br />
Whole Grain Salads<br />
All our food is<br />
made in-house.<br />
53 Stoke Newington Church St, Stoke Newington, London N16 0AR • 020 7249 9061<br />
Camia Deli.indd 1 05/12/2016 23:03
26<br />
Stuffed Calamari with Shrimps<br />
Eating here is a live history class<br />
Under the Ottoman Empire the guilds of cooks were fiercely secretive about<br />
their culinary tricks. Consequently few recipes survive from the four and half centuries of<br />
Ottoman rule (1453 to 1918). In as district of old houses just off a little square lined with<br />
plane trees, next door to one of the finest Byzantine churches, St. Savior in Chora,<br />
Asitane has devoted itself to the re-creation of this lost cuisine<br />
New York Times<br />
Kariye Camii Sokak No: 6 34240 Edirnekapi Istanbul, Turkey T:+90 (212) 635 7997<br />
www.asitanerestaurant.com
Istanbul:<br />
two continents<br />
in two days<br />
It’s a city with an 8000-year history, charting a story from Byzantium<br />
to Constantinople before assuming its present name, Istanbul. As a vast<br />
metropolis spread across two continents, how could you possibly see it<br />
in just two days? Here’s our guide to prove you can.<br />
by Yasemin BAKAN<br />
Day One<br />
Sultanahmet<br />
We assume you are staying in a hotel in<br />
Sultanahmet, the heart of the old city on<br />
the European side, as this will help you<br />
save time.<br />
Start your first day with a visit<br />
to the Blue Mosque (Turkish:<br />
SultanahmetCamii). It’s called blue<br />
because of the tiles on the interior and<br />
was built between 1609 and 1616, during<br />
the reign of Ahmet I. Entry free.<br />
From the mosque, cross the square to<br />
the magnificent Hagia Sophia museum<br />
(40 TL/£8.99). An Eastern Orthodox<br />
cathedral when it was built in 537 AD, it<br />
was converted into a mosque by Mehmet II<br />
when he took the city from the Byzantine<br />
Empire in 1453, earning himself the<br />
moniker “the Conqueror” in the process.<br />
In the 1930s it was converted into<br />
a museum by Ataturk, the founder of<br />
modern Turkey, and it is a stunning sight<br />
to see mosaics and frescos featuring<br />
Christ, the Virgin Mary and Byzantine<br />
emperors alongside Arabic script from<br />
the building’s mosque era.<br />
Yerebatan Sarnıcı<br />
Also worth seeing in the same area is<br />
42
GETAWAY<br />
the Basilica Cistern (20 TL / £4.50),<br />
a breathtaking underground water<br />
reservoir built with 336 columns during<br />
the reign of Byzantine emperor Justinian I.<br />
It will take you three to four hours to<br />
see these magnificent historical sites.<br />
TOPKAPI PALACE<br />
Afterwards, move firmly into the<br />
Ottoman era with a visit to the Topkapı<br />
Palace complex (40 TL / £8.99, closed<br />
Tuesdays) where you could easily while<br />
away the hours touring the grandiose<br />
home of the sultans that reigned over<br />
a vast empire. There are various low<br />
buildings surrounding courtyards,<br />
pavilions and gardens in an area covering<br />
approximately 7.5 million square feet.<br />
In addition to Ottoman sultans’<br />
possessions and documents, you can<br />
also see the sceptre of the Prophet<br />
Muhammad. There is also a café with a<br />
magnificent view of the Bosporus where<br />
you can take the weight off your feet for a<br />
minute.<br />
If, after that, you are still not tired, drop<br />
into the nearby Istanbul Archaeological<br />
Museum.<br />
DAY TWO<br />
KUZGUNCUK<br />
Today we are off to the Asian side – or,<br />
as Istanbul people call it, the Anatolia<br />
(Anadolu) side. The short boat trip across<br />
the water from Eminönü on the shores of<br />
the Bosporus to Üsküdar won’t be easy<br />
to forget. From here, take a bus or cab<br />
for the 10-minute trip to Kuzguncuk, the<br />
artistic village that was once a meeting<br />
point for different cultures with its<br />
mosque, synagogue and Greek Orthodox<br />
and Armenian churches.<br />
This little neighbourhood was once<br />
home to Jewish, Greek, Armenian and<br />
ethnic Turks – in particular, it is where<br />
ten thousand Jews settled when they<br />
deported from Spain in the 15th century.<br />
That is why it was known as “Little<br />
Jerusalem”. Armenians followed in the<br />
18th century alongside a small Greek<br />
community. There was not even a mosque<br />
here in Kuzguncuk until 1952.<br />
BEYLERBEYI PALACE<br />
Next head over to Beylerbeyi Palace<br />
(20 TL / £4.50), the summer home of<br />
Ottoman sultans, where guests from<br />
around the world – including European<br />
royalty – would be hosted.<br />
It was constructed on the orders of<br />
Sultan Abdulaziz and is a magnificent<br />
show of crystal chandeliers, magnificent<br />
staircases, the “Yıldız” style of porcelain<br />
crockery, Hereke carpets and dolphinshaped<br />
marble fountain.<br />
KUZGUNCUK WAS ONCE<br />
HOME TO JEWISH,<br />
GREEK, ARMENIAN AND<br />
ETHNIC TURKS<br />
KÜÇÜKSU PALACE<br />
Another Ottoman palace is at Küçüksu<br />
(2.50 TL / 55p, closed Mondays &<br />
Thursdays) which was designed as a<br />
hunting lodge for Sultan Abdulmecid.<br />
The 8-room stone building was built in<br />
the 1850s. The outside features baroqueinspired<br />
pomegranate and goose<br />
figurines, while the interior boasts a twin<br />
staircase and lighting provided through<br />
Bohemian crystal.<br />
Abdulmecid would spend the weekends<br />
here to hunt, popping over from the<br />
Dolmabahçe palace on the European<br />
side of the city by boat. He would return<br />
home in the evenings as the palace has no<br />
bedroom.<br />
Some scenes from the 1999 James<br />
Bond film “The World Is Not Enough”<br />
were filmed here at this architectural<br />
treasure. Its location, on the shore of the<br />
Göksu, has been the subject of many 19th<br />
century European painting.<br />
ANADOLUHISARI<br />
With a leisurely walk, proceed to the<br />
AnadoluHisar jetty. Form this point you<br />
can see two castles, one on either side<br />
of the Bosporus, overlooking the water<br />
for centuries. AnadoluHisarı (Anatolian<br />
Castle) was completed in 1395 as part<br />
of Sultan Bayezid I’s preparations for a<br />
second siege of Constantinople. Spend a<br />
little while at one of the cafes around the<br />
Göksu near AnadoluHisar, particularly if<br />
the weather is sunny.<br />
From here, you have two options. You<br />
can either proceed to the bar street in<br />
AnadoluHisarı<br />
43
getaway<br />
Asitane Restaurant's<br />
stuffed melon dish<br />
nearby Kadıköy to enjoy yourself as locals<br />
do and take the last boat back to your<br />
hotel in Eminönü. Or you can cross back<br />
to the European side immediately and<br />
visit the district of Emirgan.<br />
Emirgan<br />
Assuming you proceed to Emirgan,<br />
there are boats available to take you<br />
across the water for 7.5 TL. Here you<br />
will find the Sakıp Sabancı Museum<br />
(sakipsabancimuzesi.org/en), founded<br />
by one of the most well-known and<br />
successful business families in Turkey.<br />
The museum displays the families<br />
collection of calligraphy and paintings.<br />
From here, proceed to the Emirgan<br />
Koru where, if you are visiting in the<br />
spring, you will see some magnificent<br />
tulip displays and the pink, yellow and<br />
white palaces built by Ismail Pasha<br />
between 1871 and 1878.<br />
Where to eat on the<br />
European side?<br />
For a quick, traditionally Turkish lunch<br />
in Sultanahmet, pop over to the Tarihi<br />
Sultanahmet Köftecisi for a meal of köfte<br />
(meatballs) and beyaz fasülye salatası<br />
(white bean salad). For the evening meal,<br />
why not consider Akin Balık (akinbalik.<br />
com.tr), a fish restaurant down the hill<br />
next to the Karaköy jetty by the Galata<br />
bridge? An alternative is the Karaköy<br />
Lokantası (karakoylokantasi.com) for<br />
some authentic Ottoman cuisine.<br />
People in Istanbul also enjoy Asitane<br />
Restaurant (asitanerestaurant.com),<br />
which serves such palatial delights<br />
as meat stew encased in melon and<br />
Ottoman-style sherbet. And while you’re<br />
in the area, why not check out the Kariye<br />
Museum (kariye.muze.gov.tr; £6.74) – it’s<br />
all reachable by boat from the Galata<br />
bridge. Just travel to Ayvansaray.<br />
Kuzguncuk Balıkçısı<br />
Some scenes from<br />
the 1999 James Bond<br />
film “The World Is<br />
Not Enough” were<br />
filmed here at this<br />
architectural<br />
treasure<br />
For a more contemporary but still<br />
traditional Turkish dining experience,<br />
check out the meyhane (tavern) scene.<br />
After warm and cold mezes you can enjoy<br />
fish, meat or chicken at the restaurants<br />
– all served with Turkey’s national<br />
drink, rakı. The best is Refik Restaurant<br />
(refikrestaurant.com), which has existed<br />
since the 1960s. Try the lakerda, a<br />
pickled bonito dish eaten as a mezze in<br />
the Turkey. It is made from one-year-old<br />
bonito migrating through the Bosphorus<br />
and is especially prized.<br />
If grilled kebabs are your thing,<br />
then you can’t go wrong by visiting<br />
Umut Ocakbaşı (Katip Mustafa Çelebi<br />
Mahallesi, HasnunGalip Sk. No:8 Beyoğlu)<br />
or Zübeyir Ocakbaşı (Bekar Sokak No.28,<br />
Istiklal Caddesi, Taksim).<br />
Where to eat on the<br />
Asian side?<br />
The Bosporus shore is lined with stylish<br />
restaurants, but these are pricey. Drop<br />
into the back streets of Kuzguncuk for a<br />
calmer, cheaper and local option – like the<br />
Kuzguncuk Balıkçısı, seafood restaurant.<br />
Fish soup is 9 TL / £8, while seasonal<br />
fillets start from 15 TL / £3.40.<br />
When you’re at AnadoluHisar, why<br />
not check out Break Cafe (Toplarönü<br />
Riyaziyeci Çıkmazı No: 2 Anadoluhisarı,<br />
Beykoz/İstanbul Phone: +90 216 323 20<br />
20) on the seafront, where you can feast<br />
for between 20-30 TL / £4.50-6.50. Don’t<br />
forget to try a Turkish coffee – it’s a true<br />
delight!<br />
Transport<br />
The Istanbulkart is Istanbul’s answer to<br />
London’s Oyster card. Load up about 35<br />
TL / £8 onto the card, which will be plenty<br />
to see you around the city for two days.<br />
It’s valid on buses, trams and boats. Taxis<br />
are metered, but if you take one avoid<br />
surprises by asking the driver how much<br />
he expects the fare will be.<br />
Galata Bridge & Galata Tower<br />
45
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