July | August 2017

TRIP PLANNER: 

HOOD RIVER 

PG.106 

PG.78 

Rye Bliss 

Cocktail 

Grilled Peach and 

Ricotta Salad 

Art Meets 

Fly-Fishing 

1859oregonsmagazine.com 

$5.95 display until August 31, 2017 

LIVE 

THINK 

EXPLORE 

OREGON 

July | August volume 46

Imagine the possibilities. 

Do you have 

a plan for college? 

OregonCollegeSavings.com/1859

Bradley Lanphear 

Men In Kilts 

Is there anything more Portland than 

a man clad in a kilt? StumpTown Kilts 

started more than a decade ago with 

sixteen prototypes and a lot of beer. 

Today the company combines tradition 

with function, as well as a mission 

statement: Real men wear skirts.

FROM LEFT John McClain and Todd Altstadt, founders of StumpTown Kilts, enjoy the 

outdoors. StumpTown Kilts are hand-stitched with fine fabrics. 

Bradley Lanphear

FEATURES 

JULY | AUGUST 2017 • volume 46 

81 

Oregon’s Baseball Roots 

Oregon may not have a pro baseball team, but 

it has a long and storied history with America’s 

greatest pastime. 

written by Erick Mertz 

Jason Quigley 

88 

The Ultimate Airstream Roadtrip 

It’s that time of year again—when a young man’s 

fancy turns to thoughts of ... road trips. Get into 

the road trip “state of mind” with some of the 

best stops around the state. 

written by Kevin Max 

96 

Hike It Baby 

Take a hike with the nonprofit organization 

that gets families outside. 

photos by Jason Quigley 

A Hike It Baby excursion at the 

Upper McCord Creek trail in the 

Columbia River Gorge. 

4 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2017

THIS IS BEAUTIFUL. 

LOTTERY DOLLARS ARE CREATING JOBS 

AND BUILDING INFRASTRUCTURE ALL ACROSS OREGON. 

Many of the projects we support aren’t glamorous, but to Oregon’s workforce they 

couldn’t be more beautiful. Since the people of Oregon created the Lottery in 1984, over 

$3 billion in Lottery funding has helped create jobs and lay the vital groundwork for 

more in the future. When we help Oregon business do more business, everyone wins. 

Lottery games are based on chance and should be played for entertainment only.

64 

56 

COVER 

photo by Emily Green 

John Riha 

106 

DEPARTMENTS 

JULY | AUGUST 2017 • volume 46 

12 Editor’s Letter 

15 1859 Online 

119 Map of Oregon 

120 Until Next Time 

Victoria Carlson 

Austin White 

LIVE 

18 NOTEBOOK 

Summer in Oregon means events, from rodeos to the iconic Country 

Fair. If you’d rather sit back with some music and a good book, 

turn on The Slants and learn more about the wine you’re sipping 

with Cork Dork. 

24 FOOD + DRINK 

Put on your fancy hat and head to the Oregon Polo Classic, or celebrate 

the solar eclipse at a winery event. Then check out our picks 

for some good local lagers. 

34 HOME + DESIGN 

Take a bite out of our Oregon peach recipes, and ogle two incredible 

backyard transformations. 

54 MIND + BODY 

Betina Gozo is a Nike master trainer who runs her own training studio 

and is vying to be Women’s Health’s Next Fitness Star. Oh, she 

also plays bass, dances and does pretty much everything else. 

56 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 

Fly-fishing is an art, and so are the implements fishermen use—we profile 

three companies creating works of art that double as tools of the trade. 

THINK 

64 STARTUP 

One Bend woman’s love of a comfortable swimsuit led her to start 

CeaBikinis, a company with a cult following. 

66 WHAT’S GOING UP 

First came food carts. Now the newest thing on the Portland scene 

is food halls. 

70 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 

The Architectural Heritage Center in Portland is in the midst of 

documenting properties important to the city’s African American 

heritage before these properties disappear. 

74 MY WORKSPACE 

StumpTown Kilts are built to endure weather, washing and pretty 

much any other rigor that comes your way. 

78 GAME CHANGER 

When Big Timber died, Wallowa County was hard hit. Thanks to a 

local nonprofit, residents have gone from resentment to revitalization. 

EXPLORE 

100 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 

A training ground for scuba divers, the true wonder of Woahink 

Lake lies beneath the surface. 

102 ADVENTURES 

Fly-fishing on the John Day River is an unexpected treat, so long as 

you’re going for bass. 

104 LODGING 

McMenamins Grand Lodge may just be the brand’s crown jewel. 

106 TRIP PLANNER 

Hip restaurants and hiking trails will help you go beyond windsurfing 

on your next trip to Hood River. 

114 NORTHWEST DESTINATION 

The Olympic Peninsula truly offers something for everyone, from 

jagged peaks and rainforests to quaint towns and luxury resorts. 


CONTRIBUTORS 

JOHN RIHA 

Writer 

Artist in Residence 

If there’s anything as 

pleasurable as fly-fishing, it’s 

visiting our region’s fly-fishing 

shops and talking to other 

aficionados about this gentle 

sport. It was in those shops that 

I began to have an appreciation 

of the exquisite craftsmanship 

of locally made fly-fishing gear. 

As a writer, I wanted to explore 

further, and I discovered stories 

of the dedication and love that 

go into making these beautiful 

rods, reels and nets. 

(p. 56) 

EMILY GREEN 

Photographer 

Cover 

It was an honor to work with 

the 1859 team for the first 

time. What a talented group of 

creatives. Their vision, style and 

direction made the shoot fluid 

and fun. Photographing a food 

prep shot was inspiring for me 

as one of my hobbies is baking 

pies. While shooting the cover 

we enjoyed local beer, shared 

conversations, ideas and a few 

bites of rock-hard peaches. My 

experience was memorable, 

and I look forward to my next 

opportunity to experience the 

1859 culture. 

(cover) 

ISAAC PETERSON 

Writer 

What I’m Working On 

My profile of Stephanie 

Whitlock and her work at the 

Architectural Heritage Center 

documenting African-American 

history in Portland grew out of a 

Twitter discussion with 

@ToriGlass and @AClooForYou. 

I would have never known about 

this project (which is, in my 

view, a cultural watershed for 

the city) without the comments 

and insight of our readers. Thank 

you for the conversation and 

for digging deeply into what it 

means to be an Oregonian. 

(p. 70) 

ARIAN STEVENS 

Photographer 

Adventure 

Fresh out of high school having no clue what I wanted to do, I took a photography 

class and found not only my passion, but a way to share the beauty of my 

surroundings with others. Back then, I always imagined how much cooler the image 

would be if there was someone fishing it. I added a fly rod and a few fishing buddies 

to my arsenal and decided to move where there was a bit more water to cover. 

(p.102) 


Portland Monthly 

“Top Doctors” 2O16 

Organic chemist 

before becoming 

a surgeon 

Rain or shine hiker 

and trail runner 

Dr. Jordana Gaumond 

General Surgeon 

The Oregon Clinic 

oregonclinic.com/unique 

Top rated and down to earth.

Get your back... 

on track. 

If you suffer from neck, back or leg pain as a 

result of a spine condition, you may benefit from spine surgery 

using Mazor X robotic technology available in Oregon only 

at Asante Rogue Regional Medical Center. 

Compared to traditional surgery, minimally-invasive Mazor X 

technology lowers the risk of post-surgery complications, 

reduces the risk of radiation exposure due to fewer imaging 

scans, decreases the patient’s recovery time and results in 

less pain after surgery. 

Learn more at asante.org/MazorX 

Surgery provided by the neurosurgeons of Southern Oregon Neurosurgical & Spine Associates, of Medford. sonsa.org 

1637

EDITOR Kevin Max 

MANAGING EDITOR 

CREATIVE LEAD 

DESIGN 

SALES + MARKETING 

WEB EDITOR 

WEBMASTER 

OFFICE MANAGER 

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES 

HOME GROWN CHEF 

BEERLANDIA COLUMNIST 

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS 

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS 

Sheila G. Miller 

Brooke Miracle 

Allison Bye 

Kelly Hervey 

Kara Tatone 

Isaac Peterson 

Cindy Miskowiec 

Stacey Goodman 

Kelly Hervey 

Jenny Kamprath 

Deb Steiger 

Thor Erickson 

Jeremy Storton 

Mike Allen, Melissa Dalton, Carly Diaz, Andes Hruby, Julie Lee, 

Lindsay McWilliams, Erick Mertz, John Riha, Felisa Rogers, 

Mackenzie Wilson 

Carly Diaz, Emily Green, Bradley Lanphear, Rick Obst, Bill Purcell, 

Jason Quigley, John Riha, Arian Stevens, Austin White 

Statehood Media 

70 SW Century Dr. 1801 NW Upshur St. 

Suite 100-218 Suite 100 

Bend, Oregon 97702 Portland, Oregon 97209 

1859magazine.com/subscribe 

@1859oregon 

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appearing in 1859 Oregon’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Consent of the publisher. 1859 Oregon’s Magazine 

and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not neCessarily 

those of 1859 Oregon’s Magazine, Statehood Media or its employees, staff or management. 

Statehood Media sets high standards to ensure forestry is praCtiCed in an environmentally responsible, soCially benefiCial and eConomiCally viable way. 

This issue of 1859 Magazine was printed by Quad Graphics on reCyCled paper using inks with a soy base. Our printer is a Certified member of the Forestry 

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JULY | AUGUST 2017 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 11

EDITOR’S 

LETTER 

KEROUAC SAID IN HIS SEMINAL On the Road, “There was 

nowhere to go but everywhere, so just keep on rolling under 

the stars.” 

We are excited to announce the newest rolling member to our family—a 

25-foot-long Flying Cloud Airstream—after signing a content 

partnership with Airstream Adventures Northwest, the country’s 

largest Airstream dealership. As part of our agreement, Statehood 

Media explores the valleys and rivers, the forests and deserts of the 

Pacific Northwest and creates inspirational travel content around 

these experiences. We have charted more than twenty-five spots in 

Oregon, Washington and Idaho that we will hit over the next year. 

At the end of the year, we will publish the stories, the photos and 

the videos that we collected along the way. The stories on page 88 

of this issue represent the first installation in this partnership, with 

a collection of them to be published late next spring. We will keep a 

schedule on our website at 1859magazine.com/Airstream for those 

of you who want to come out and share an adventure or a drink with 

us under the stars. 

The Legacy of the Sawdust Circuit is an engaging history of an early 

baseball league in Oregon. Perhaps it is not well known because the 

tools for documentation were still primitive. Maybe it’s because they 

were so remote in pre-War Southern Oregon. It could also be due to 

its spectacle of vice with fighting, drinking and dubious commercial 

offerings. While other parts of America had Babe Ruth and Major 

League Baseball, Oregon had its own games in the state’s logging 

lairs. Take a trip back to this era and witness the birth of baseball in 

the West. 

Our Trip Planner settles on the bank of the Columbia Gorge in 

Hood River. Once (and still) the windsurfing capital of the country, 

the core of the Fruit Loop is branching out with more reasons 

for land-lubbers to visit. Lindsay McWilliams jumps in feet first to a 

weekend of culture and cuisine. See Trip Planner on page 106. 

Our musical act brings us to the rock sounds of Portland-based The 

Slants, or what the band calls “Chinatown Dance Rock.” Stylish and 

talented, these young Asian Americans keep cranking out melodic 

gems while fighting to keep their band’s name. The United States Supreme 

Court will rule on the trademark case in the coming months. 

In the meantime, catch our piece on The Slants, now out with a new 

album, appropriately called The Band Who Must Not Be Named. 

Few things bring more happiness to my palate than a grilled peach 

and a whiskey drink. Bring both into your dining room by venturing 

out to a u-pick orchard to make your own grilled peach salad and 

(homemade) ricotta (recipe on page 36). Never grill empty-handed, 

as it leaves you unbalanced and vulnerable. Our Rye Bliss cocktail 

from Bendistillery is a good way to bring balance back to your life. 

Pick up a copy of Bianca Bosker’s entertaining and interesting Cork 

Dork, a down-to-earth memoir of a tech journalist turned sommelier. 

I’m getting notes of levity and humor. Cheers! 


My #GoodLifeGoal: 

early retirement 

The future isn’t so far away anymore. That’s why planning 

for it is more important than ever. As your financial 

partner, SELCO takes the time to understand your goals 

and guides you with one-on-one financial and estate 

planning, investment advising and trust services. 

Now the only thing left to plan is your retirement party. 

To begin planning, call 800-445-4483 or visit selco.org 

Nondeposit investment products and services are offered through CUSO Financial Services, L.P. (“CFS”), a registered broker-dealer (Member 

FINRA[finra.org]/SIPC[sipc.org]) and SEC Registered Investment Advisor. Nondeposit investment products offered through CFS are not NCUA/ 

NCUSIF or otherwise federally insured, are not guarantees or obligations of the credit union, and may involve investment risk including 

possible loss of principal. Investment Representatives are registered through CFS. SELCO Community Credit Union has contracted with CFS 

to make nondeposit investment products and services available to credit union members.

1859 ONLINE 

More ways to connect with your favorite Oregon content 

1859magazine.com | #1859oregon | @1859oregon 

have a photo that 

shows off your oregon 

experience? 

Share it with us by filling out the 

Oregon Postcard form on our 

website. If chosen, you’ll win custom 

1859 gear and a chance to be 

published here. 

1859magazine.com/postcard 

DIGITAL EXCLUSIVE 

Pickathon Music Festival 

photo by Mike West 

A cotton candy-colored sunset over Sparks Lake in the 

Deschutes National Forest. 

Liz Devine 

HOOD RIVER: A NEW PERSPECTIVE 

Experience Hood River in a new way, with aerial footage of all that this city has to offer. 

1859magazine.com/hoodriver 

Austin White 

Find out what makes Pickathon— 

an independent music festival in 

Happy Valley—different from the 

rest. 1859 writer Corinne Whiting 

takes a look at one of Oregon’s 

fastest-growing festivals, held out 

in the woods at Pendarvis Farm. 

1859magazine.com/pickathon 


organic certified 

non-gmo verified 

fair trade ingredients 

Vegan 

# shareyourbliss 

coconutbliss.com

NOTEBOOK 18 

FOOD + DRINK 24 

HOME + DESIGN 34 

MIND + BODY 54 

ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 56 

pg. 30 

The Polo Classic would not be complete without 

the appropriate attire.

notebook 

Tidbits + To-dos 

The Big Eclipse and The Big Eclipse 

Activity Book 

With the total solar eclipse making its rare 

appearance on August 21, the event is 

also an opportunity to teach youngsters 

about science and astronomy. Baker City 

author Nancy Coffelt’s The Big Eclipse 

children’s book and activity book explain 

the eclipse in a fun and interactive way. 

Follow animals through the United States 

as they chase the solar eclipse—and don’t 

forget to use the protective solar eclipse 

viewer found in the back of the book 

when viewing the sun! 

orbitoregon.org 

mark your 

CALENDAR 

Ewethful Fiber Farms & Mill 

Very few fiber mills exist in Oregon 

today, and the newest (and smallest) 

has just sprouted up in the small farming 

community of Halsey. Restoring a historic 

downtown building into a storefront, 

Kim and Mitch Biegler opened Ewethful 

Fiber Farm & Mill in 2017. This family 

business provides processing services, 

sells local fibers and goods, and will soon 

host classes on spinning, knitting and 

crocheting. 

ewethfulfiberfarms.com 

A Plant-Based Summer Favorite 

Just in time for summer, Eugene’s vegan 

ice cream company Coconut Bliss has 

released another summer favorite: ice 

cream sandwiches. These plant-based 

treats use gluten-free chocolate chip 

cookies made with hemp seed to smash 

a scoop of dark chocolate or vanilla ice 

cream. All of Coconut Bliss’ ice creams 

are organic, dairy-free, soy-free and 

vegan. Find them in grocery stores 

across Oregon. 

coconutbliss.com 


notebook 

PDX Coffee at Your Door 

Joining the trend of curated subscription 

boxes this year is the Portland Coffee 

Box, which gathers coffees from local 

micro-roasters, delivering them to you on 

a monthly or bimonthly basis. Partners 

include brands large and small, from 

well-known Portland Coffee Roasters to 

up-and-coming Tanager. Though roasted 

locally, coffees included come from all 

over the world, accompanied by artisan 

profiles and tasting notes. 

withlovefrompdx.com 

mark your 

CALENDAR 

mark your 

CALENDAR 

Gear Up for Oregon Rodeo Season 

Oregon’s rowdy rodeo season kicks 

off with the St. Paul Rodeo during 

Independence Day weekend and goes 

out with a bang at the famous Pendleton 

Round-Up in September. Mark your 

calendars to experience Oregon’s historic 

Western culture this summer. 

St. Paul Rodeo, St. Paul 

July 1-4 

Elgin Stampede, Elgin 


Chief Joseph Days Rodeo, Joseph 


Farm City Pro Rodeo, Hermiston 

August 8-12 

Pendleton Round-Up, Pendleton 

September 13-16 

Oregon Country Fair 

Hop on the bus in Eugene and head to 

the state’s hippiest event, the Oregon 

Country Fair, July 7-9. What started as a 

gathering of 3,000 in Veneta in 1969 has 

grown to a festival of more than 45,000 

people clad in tie-dye, flower crowns 

and body paint. The whimsical threeday 

event includes art displays, musical 

performances, craft booths and various 

parades. 

oregoncountryfair.org 


notebook 

Musician 

The Slants 

A slanted point 

of view 

written by Isaac Peterson 

A CONTAGIOUS SYNTH melody 

loops above a driving drum and 

bassline. The dance floor is already 

packed. The Slants’ lead singer, Ken 

Shima, wearing a slim suit and a skinny 

tie, tips the mic stand back to croon in 

a low melodic drawl. 

“Sorry if you take offense. Silence 

will not make amends. Don’t make 

the pen a weapon and censor our 

intelligence. No we won’t remain 

silent. It’s our defining moment. We 

sing from the heart.” 

It’s New Wave synth-pop that 

could have charted at #1 thirty years 

ago. The Slants modernize the genre by 

inflecting it with a hard punk edge. The 

songs have a faster tempo than their ’80s 

antecedents, and the lyrics are incisive 

and confrontational. They call their sound 

“Chinatown Dance Rock.” 

The song is called “From the Heart.” It’s not a 

love song, but an open letter to the United States 

Patent and Trademark Office, which refused to 

register the band’s name as a trademark in 2011 

on the grounds that “slant” is a derogatory 

term for people of Asian descent. The 

Lanham Act of 1946 prohibits 

trademarks for names that disparage 

or debase others. The Portlandbased 

band’s four members, Shima, 

Simon Tam, Joe X. Jiang and Yuya 

Matsuda, are all Asian Americans, and 

they feel their name is an act of re-appropriation 

and empowerment. 

The Slants have taken their trademark case to the United States 

Supreme Court this year. Briefs have been filed and oral arguments 

completed, and now they await a decision. The outcome of the case will 

be crucial to defining the First Amendment in the modern era. For Tam, 

a founder and bass guitarist, the case isn’t just about their band. 

“Ultimately, communities should have the right to determine what’s 

right for ourselves,” Tam said. “We shouldn’t have someone who has no 

connection to our group making decisions on what is or isn’t appropriate. 

It’s a fight that’s much bigger than our band. It’s about protecting civil 

liberties that are crucial to marginalized groups.” 

The Slants are made up of, from left, Yuya Matsuda, Ken Shima, Simon Tam and Joe X. Jiang. 

What’s the best way to wait for a Supreme Court decision? By playing 

concerts in support of their latest album, The Band Who Must Not Be 

Named. 

“We’re currently on a coast-to-coast tour, covering everything from 

Portland, Oregon, to Concord, New Hampshire, and dozens of cities in 

between,” Tam said. “In total, it’s about sixty appearances in forty-four 

days. After that, we come home for a couple of weeks before hitting the 

road once more.” 


Magic Hex 

Maloy's offers a fabulous selection of antique and 

estate jewelry and fine custom jewelry, as well as 

repair and restoration services. We also buy.

notebook 

Bibliophile 

Super Somm 

Put down your Franzia 

and pick up Bianca 

Bosker’s new memoir, 

Cork Dork 

interview by Sheila G. Miller 

ADMIT IT. If you’re like most of us, 

you have no idea what peppery, jammy 

or dry means when it comes to wine. 

You may like drinking wine, but maybe 

you’re not sure quite why. In Cork Dork, 

Portland native Bianca Bosker walks us 

through the world of wine. Bosker, a 

tech journalist, quit her job to immerse 

herself in the elite sphere of sommeliers 

and their super sensory abilities. 

You spend a lot of this book talking 

your way into events and groups 

that you have no business being 

part of. You must be the most 

persistent person in America! 

Panic and desperation will get you 

very far. I think a good part of how 

that happened was quitting my job 

and finding that I had no option 

but to move forward. I had burned 

that bridge, closed that door, and 

the only way to not end up a failure 

drinking copious amounts of wine 

and tastings on Tuesday mornings 

was just to be dogged. Also, I want 

to tell people’s stories who want 

their stories told, who will let me in, 

who will give me access and who will 

share their time and what they know. 

So part of it comes from persistence 

and part of it was pairing up correctly 

with people. 

Did you have a book deal when you 

started this project, or were you just 

drinking and hoping? 

I knew I was going to write something. 

I have what is sort of a blessing and a 

curse that plagues a lot of journalists, 

which is that it’s hard to do anything 

without thinking about how it may 

inform a story. Nora Ephron has a 

great quote, “Everything is copy.” 

That’s not so far from my heart. So 

I went into this knowing I was going 

to write a book, but it was also 

something I was going to do one way 

or another, in the sense that, as I write 

about in the intro, this world of cork 

dorks really turned my life upside 

down in a very personally powerful 

way. If I had to spend another month 

at a screen writing what happened on 

other people’s screens, or looking over 

someone’s shoulder at a cell phone, I 

would have had a pretty public temper 

tantrum breakdown. 

Whenever I read a memoir I wonder 

how friends and family react to 

seeing themselves in print. Was it at 

all awkward for you? 

I was very up front and open with 

people about the fact that I was there 

in a reporting and research capacity. I 

think it’s very important to make that 

clear, and in general you have to be 

fair, period. You have to let people 

know what you’re there to do, and 

also at the same time a journalist’s 

role is understandably different than 

a publicist’s role. I’ve been really 

touched by some of the responses 

I’ve gotten from people who are in the 

book, who have said that even though 

there was maybe a quote here or there 

that they cringed at … they were 

so grateful and had so much 


notebook 

admiration for the lens that I brought 

onto this world, by the fact that I shed 

light on an industry and culture that is 

very misunderstood. 

How did the greater wine world 

react to this book? I’ve seen some 

controversy surrounding it. 

Cork Dork deviates from the wine 

world script. The wine industry has 

some very romantic stories and some 

very entrenched, inherited wisdom 

that has existed for a long time, and 

that has served the industry quite 

well, that I tackle head-on in the 

book. I’m coming at it from a different 

perspective as someone who was a 

curious, open-minded, and in some 

cases, skeptical, outsider who became 

an insider. That allowed me to take 

a more objective stance. I brought a 

perspective that combines the soul of 

wine with the science of it, that looks 

at the high end 

and also the low 

end. And I think if 

calling BS makes some 

people uncomfortable, then 

so be it. 

One of the things you mention in the 

book is how as you trained, you were 

pretty much constantly intoxicated. 

Has that changed now that you’re 

done with the book? 

The book came out (in April), and I 

hadn’t expected to resume a lot of my 

heavy day-drinking or, I should say, day 

wine tasting. But I’ve been doing some 

interviews and a lot of people think 

they’ve come up with a very unique 

idea—“Maybe we should drink wine 

during the interview!” So there have 

been days where I have consumed, 

god, a dozen glasses of wine by 1:30 

p.m. Of course, I’m not drinking full 

glasses, but it’s a new challenge to 

figure out how to be coherent while 

being interviewed on the record. 

Before all of this, all I got out of wine 

was a little buzzed. Now it’s emotional, 

it’s intellectual. I have deep curiosities 

about certain bottles that I can’t wait 

to try. 


food + drink 

Beerlandia 

Lagers: Beer with a backstory 

written by Jeremy Storton 

ONCE, WHILE BARTENDING during 

the Sisters Rodeo, a cowboy still covered in 

dirt limped up to me at the bar like he just 

pulled himself from under a bull. “Gimme 

a Buckskin,” he said. “Excuse me?” I replied. 

“A Buckskin,” he repeated. “What the hell 

is that?” I asked. He looked at me like I 

was an idiot and said, “Gimme a Coors” 

(pronounced like “Kers”). Whatever one 

calls the beer of our grandfathers, keep in 

mind one thing—craft beer would likely 

be nowhere without it. 

In the early nineteenth century, 

German brewers experimented with 

yeast that bottom fermented and really 

liked the cooler temperatures of alpine 

caves. In 1842 (seventeen years before 

Oregon became a state), brewers created 

a beer that would eventually take over 

the world in a Bohemian town in the 

Czech Republic. That town was Pilsen. 

Sound familiar? 

In post-Prohibition and post- 

Depression America, beer wasn’t much 

except it helped get our nation back 

on its feet. Lagers of old were light, 

delicate and perfect in a cold glass on 

a hot day. Nowadays, that same glass 

becomes downright interesting when 

we pour lagers such as Märzens, Bocks, 

Dunkels and Baltic Porters. Then there 

are Eisbocks, which will knock a drinker 

on his butt faster than he can say 

Saccharomyces Pastorianus. 

While the craft boom has allowed us 

to create new beers, it has also allowed 

us to resurrect old styles. This breath of 

new life and these hot summer days are 

perfect to enjoy the beer of our greatgrandfathers. 

Prost! 

GREAT OREGON LAGERS TO 

COOL YOU DOWN ON HOT 

SUMMER DAYS 

Heater Allen — McMinnville 

Try the “Coastal” Vienna Style Lager (think 

Negra Modelo, but without the lime). Or try 

the Dunkel, because who doesn’t like a little 

chocolate and caramel in his lager? 

Occidental Brewing — Portland 

The Altbier is one of my favs. The malt is 

complex and balanced with spicy hops. 

Technically Altbiers use ale yeast, but ferment 

at lager temperatures. 

Crux Fermentation Project — Bend 

Crux Pils is like a classic German Pilsner just 

off the boat, without the weariness of a trip 

across the Atlantic. 

Buoy Brewing — Astoria 

Try the Helles and especially the Czech Pils. 

Both are far more flavorful than grandpa’s 

pale yellow suds. 


Mount Angel Oktoberfest 

Welcome to Our Bavarian Family 

September 14-17, 2017 

www.oktoberfest.org 

Mount Angel, Oregon

Recipe Card 

recipe courtesy of 

Bendistillery 

Rye Bliss 

1 ½ 

3-4 

2 

5 

ounces Crater Lake Rye Whiskey 

maraschino cherries 

lemon wedges 

ounces Ablis Thrive CBD Lemon Ginger 

sparkling beverage 

Muddle the 

maraschino 

cherries and one 

lemon wedge at 

the bottom of a 

rocks or Collins 

glass. Add ice, 

Crater Lake Rye 

Whiskey and Ablis 

Thrive CBD Lemon 

Ginger sparkling 

beverage. 

Gently stir and 

garnish with 

the second 

lemon wedge. 

Tasting the Vineyard 

in the Bottle 

written by Carrie Wynkoop of Cellar 503 

EVERY INDUSTRY HAS ITS TALENT scouts, the men and women 

who can spot quality before their competitors. When it comes to 

vineyards growing pinot noir, Jim Seufert was recognized as “a future 

star of Oregon wine” right from the start. 

Seufert Winery is a small production winery that flies under the 

radar, but pinot noir aficionados love Seufert’s approach—producing 

a half-dozen single-vineyard pinots every year using the exact same 

winemaking regimen on every wine. With a minimalist approach, he 

endeavors not to “work” the wines, so that the terroir, the climate and 

the season shine through. 

A fourth-generation Oregonian, Seufert’s love of this place is 

expressed in the wines that he makes. If you want to taste the difference 

between a Yamhill pinot and a Dundee Hills pinot, stop in at Seufert’s 

Dayton winery. As one critic wrote, you’re tasting “the vineyard in a 

bottle” at Seufert. 

Of course, his multiple-vineyard blends of pinot noir have also won 

praise, as he blends the nuances of flavor like an accomplished chef (and 

oh yeah, he’s one of those, too!). 

We’re excited to feature his white pinot noir again this year. It was 

such a huge hit with our club members last year that we’ve brought it 

back. The perfect wine for both white and red wine lovers during these 

hot days of summer. 

seufertwinery.com 

26 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2017 

Join the 1859 Wine Club to explore more Oregon wines at: 

www.1859magazine.com/wineclub

We live by one simple rule... 

LIVING REAL + HAVING FUN 

follow Joe on the go 

#DOYOUKNOWJOE 

winebyjoe.com 

Brewing Adventurous Ales in Bend, OR since 2011 

goodlifebrewing.com 

Honestly exceptional 

Pinot Noir 

enjoy our historic winery in downtown mcminville or 

relax on the garden terrace. 

open daily 11 am - 5 pm 

ElizabethChambersCellar.com ~ 503-412-9765 

from pinot noir to malbec, experience an outstanding 

collection of oregon wines at eugene’s original winery. 

open daily 12-5 pm 

SilvanRidge.com ~ 541-345-1945

Join 

1859 

join 1859 wine club and experience some of oregon's finest wines. 

CHoose crisp whites, jammy reds or a little of both. 

Sign up as a new club member this month, and your first 

shipment will be just $1. 

www.1859wineclub.com/join-the-club

food + drink 

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT A young girl sports a painted face at the Polo Classic. 

Women enjoy a glass of wine before the games begin. The Polo Classic offers high-end 

whiskey and cigars for celebration. 

Gastronomy 

Oregon Polo Classic 

written by Julie Lee 

INAUGURATED LAST SUMMER, the 

Oregon Polo Classic is a new spoke in 

the wheel of the Classic Wines Auction 

series, a charitable phenomenon that 

has raised more than $43 million since 

its inception and $3.5 million last year 

alone, assisting in the lives of more 

than 100,000 children and families 

through nonprofit partners while 

showcasing Oregon’s bountiful food 

and wine industry. The second annual 

event, benefitting Metropolitan Family 

Services, YWCA Clark County and 

Albertina Kerr, will be held July 22-23 at 

Hidden Creek Polo Club in West Linn, 

with a decadent catered lunch, heralded 

local wines at tasting 

stations, a whiskey 

and cigar lounge 

and, of course, polo 

matches. Saturday is 

family day with kids 

welcome to join in the 

fun. Championship Sunday is an 

adults-only event with champagne 

flowing and the time-honored 

champagne divot stomp on the docket. 

Seersucker suits optional; enormous 

fancy derby hats mandatory. 

oregonpoloclassic.com 


food + drink 

CRAVINGS 

VEGETARIAN 

It’s almost absurd what chefs can do with vegetables 

these days. The days of overcooked broccoli served 

as a banquet side are entirely outmoded. Portland 

is having an unannounced contest for who can 

do what with locally sourced vegetables, with 

numerous restaurants plating up some of the most 

beautiful and edible vegetarian dishes imaginable. 

Be sure to check out Tusk, recently named one of 

America’s ten most exciting new restaurants of the 

year by the prestigious Food & Wine. You’ll just 

need to see for yourself the magic chef Sam Smith 

can conceive with a radish. 

2448 E. Burnside St. 

PORTLAND 

tuskpdx.com 

ITALIAN 

There is something calming yet momentous 

about an old-school Italian joint. While so many 

restaurant newcomers mirror a similar image of 

chic and boutique, walking into Dino’s Ristorante 

Italiano is like stepping into a time machine and 

hitting a jackpot of authentic Italian fare, served in 

what feels like your grandmother’s dining room, 

white tablecloths and all. From veal scaloppine 

to eggplant parmesan to lasagna, these are 

traditional dishes, all delicious, all paired perfectly 

with some chianti wine. Not sure what to order? 

Our favorite place to start is the spaghetti 

bolognese. Fantastico! 

404 SE Jackson St. 

ROSEBURG 

dinosristorante.com 

SEAFOOD 

Dreaming of great seafood this summer? Albatross 

& Co. in Astoria serves up a tempting array of 

seafood specialties: seafood stew with a smoky 

tomato broth, oyster chowder poutine, clams and 

bucatini, and some scrumptious Dungeness crab 

deviled eggs. This is a small, rustic kind of place 

where you’ll want to start the night with some 

oysters and cocktails, then settle in and linger until 

last call. 

225 14th St. 

ASTORIA 

albatrossandcompany.com 


BEST PLACES FOR 

SOLAR ECLIPSE 

REVELRY 

ARCANE CELLARS 

The celebration commences at Arcane Cellars 

on the banks of the Willamette River on August 

20, with an elegant dinner and live music during 

happy hour, dancing after dinner, and an eclipse 

presentation by Dr. Kemble Yates of Southern 

Oregon University. Morning festivities include a 

sit-down brunch. To memorialize the event, you’ll 

come home with a special release of Arcane 

Cellars Eclipse pinot noir. 

22350 MAGNESS RD. NW 

SALEM 

arcanecellars.com 

EOLA HILLS LEGACY ESTATE 

VINEYARDS 

To commemorate this once-in-a-lifetime event, 

Eola Hills is going big, offering a farm to table 

winemaker’s soirée, a six-course lake-side dinner 

with chef Pascal Chureau. This scenic 160-acre 

property rests in the heart of Willamette Valley, 

with uninhibited views of the coast range and sky 

above. Live music with Nu Shooz, Patrick Lamb 

and Quarterflash will keep the party rockin’. 

501 S. PACIFIC HWY. 99W 

RICKREALL 

eolahillswinery.com 

ST. INNOCENT WINERY 

With an 860-foot elevation and a 70-mile view 

in all directions, St. Innocent Winery offers an 

idyllic vantage point. Following the eclipse viewing, 

champagne corks will be popping, brunch will be 

catered by chef Bernard Malherbe of The Crooked 

House Bistro and celebratory libations will be 

pulled from the St. Innocent Winery archives to 

sip on all afternoon while playing Bocce. 

5657 ZENA ROAD NW 

SALEM 

stinnocentwine.com 

BROOKS WINERY 

With jaw-dropping views of the Cascade Range 

and Willamette Valley floor, Brooks Winery is 

a special spot for experiencing one of nature’s 

grandest events. Brooks has a full day of festivities 

planned—outdoor morning yoga, a sparkling 

wine brunch and presentation by Professor 

Ethan Siegel, an astrophysicist from Lewis & Clark 

College, and an eclipse viewing with wood-fired 

oven pizzas paired with wine. If you’re itching to 

get a jumpstart on the fun, there’s an option to 

camp the night before in the vineyards with a 

BBQ supper, live music and vineyard walk with 

winemaker Chris Williams. 

21101 SE CHERRY BLOSSOM LANE 

AMITY 

brookswine.com 

Dining 

Bowery Bagels 


THERE ARE BAGELS, AND THEN there 

are Bowery Bagels. Located in the heart of 

downtown Portland, this little bagel shop 

pipes out some of the best New York-style 

Kosher bagels in the state. Founded by a 

transplanted New Yorker with an intent 

to replicate bagels fondly remembered 

from childhood, these hand-rolled gems 

are boiled in small batches after a long 

proof, then baked, creating the perfect 

light crunchy exterior and chewy interior. 

Strongly suggested for breakfast is a bagel 

with housemade Gravlax, salmon that is 

A smoked salmon bagel from Bowery Bagels. 

cured but not smoked, allowing for more 

of a pure salmon-flavored profile. Bowery 

Bagel owner Michael Madigan created 

a recipe for Gravlax that uses fresh dill, 

chopped fennel leaves and Clear Creek 

Distillery’s Eau de Vie of Douglas Fir vodka 

in its preparation. With cream cheese and 

red onion, centered on a seeded bagel, this 

is a little slice of New York. 

310 NW Broadway 

PORTLAND 

bowerybagels.com 

A glass of rosé and cheese platter at Brooks Winery. 


Starting June 2 

nonstop 

EUG to 

PHX

home + design 

Farm to Table 

U-Pick Goodness 

Jossy Farms is 

the place for peaches 

written and photographed by Carly Diaz 

Fresh peaches 

at Jossy Farms. 

ON A WARM, DRY MORNING in early August, the 

orchards at Jossy Farms are quiet. A large barn is tucked 

between rows of trees and small wagons are lined up, 

awaiting the arrival of customers eager to fill them with 

fresh peaches. Owner Bob Jossy surveys the endless rows 

of trees, their low-hanging branches laden with ripe, 

yellow-orange fruit with just a hint of rosiness. It’s the 

height of summer and the ideal time for peach harvest. 

The absence of rain has turned the grass hues of yellow 

and brown and given the peaches the perfect conditions 

for growing. 

After the winter months, the arrival of spring with its 

abundance of strawberries is a sweet gesture to the changing 

season. By August the stone fruit season has arrived. It’s time 

for drip-down-your-arm juices while you attempt to slurp 

every last bit of summer. No elegance required. 

This 195-acre farm in Hillsboro has been in the Jossy family 

for nearly a century, but it wasn’t until 1972 that the Jossys 

planted their first peach orchards. The Jossys planted the 

u-pick orchards in 1979. Peach trees typically take 

about three years to begin producing fruit. By 1983, 

the farm was ready for its first u-pick customers. 


home + design 

“I decided to begin offering u-pick 

because I thought it would work. And it 

did,” Jossy said. At that point, his father 

managed the farm for commercial 

accounts. The first u-pick orchard was 

named Megan, after Jossy’s daughter. 

Later, it was replanted and named after 

Megan’s daughter, Aubrey. 

In the mid-1980s, a crop disaster took 

out a significant amount of fruit, and 

Jossy knew there wouldn’t be enough 

peaches to offer both packaged peaches 

and u-pick to customers. That year, he 

decided to just offer u-pick and hasn’t 

looked back. 

Few summer activities are as 

grounding as visiting a farm and picking 

your own fruit, at least in the Pacific 

Northwest. “I distinctly remember one 

man saying he didn’t know why he had 

never done u-pick before, it was so 

much fun,” Jossy said. “It was how the 

poor man got his fruit, but now it’s the 

‘in’ thing to do.” 

The farm offers five types of peaches 

commonly found in the Willamette 

Valley: veteran peaches, red haven 

peaches, blazing star peaches, star fire 

peaches and vivid peaches. Each peach 

variety has a different ripening period 

character. Some are better for baking or 

canning, some are best fresh off the tree. 

In addition, Jossy Farms offers apples, 

pears, hazelnuts and walnuts. Hazelnuts 

are the largest crop at the farm and 

peaches the largest u-pick crop. 

The season typically begins the last 

week of July and lasts approximately 

forty days. “But it’s never the same,” Jossy 

explained. “Every year is different.” 

There are nearly 2,000 varieties of 

peaches in the world, with more than 300 growing 

in the United States. Peaches are native to China, which remains the 

top producer today. Peach trees can produced for around thirty years, 

though farmers such as Jossy typically don’t let trees go so long. “My 

new rule is never let a peach tree grow older than 18 years,” Jossy said. 

“They’re just not as productive as a young tree.” 

The extreme winter cold and excessive spring rain, however, hit Jossy 

Farms and the surrounding area hard this year. “We are essentially 

wiped out of peach trees,” Jossy said. “On January 11, we had between 

0-5 degrees in the area. When it got that cold, it killed an incredible 

amount of trees.” The cold reduced the ability of the trees to resist a 

bacterial disease commonly found in peach trees, and Jossy lost about 

90 percent of them. 

A scale for u-pick guests to weigh their bounty. 

“The trees are resistant when it’s warm,” Jossy said, “but the ones 

that didn’t die were affected by the cold, wet spring, which allowed 

the disease to continue to grow inside the tree. We’re going to lose 

even more trees.” Although he predicts the farm will still have the 10 

percent of remaning peaches available for u-pick this year, Jossy and 

his family will have to decide whether to replant the peach orchard. 

For a man who was raised on the farm, began running equipment 

when he was 10 years old and whose hands have touched nearly every 

aspect of the process, it’s a grim prospect to face. “They are a difficult 

tree to grow in Oregon," Jossy said, "but I didn’t think this would ever 

happen with the peaches." 


home + design 

Oregon Recipes 

Palette-Pleasing 

Peaches 

Grilled Peach Salad 

MANZANITA / Blackbird 

Lee Vance 

INGREDIENTS 

FOR RICOTTA 

½ gallon whole milk 

½ quart heavy cream 

3 cups buttermilk 

¼ cup salt 

FOR FERMENTED CORN 

2 ears fresh corn 

1 cup strained whey (reserved from ricotta) 

or saltwater 

1 teaspoon chili flakes 

¼ cup shallots 

FOR SALAD 

1 slice levain or any rustic bread 

½ peach (grilled) 

1 small handful of arugula 

1/8 red onion, thinly sliced 

1/4 cup fermented corn 

1 tablespoon ricotta 

1/2 ounce apple cider vinegar 

1/2 ounce olive oil 

black pepper 

Blackbird's grilled peach salad. 

IN A LARGE POT, add milk, cream and buttermilk in that order. Set the flame to 

a low-medium heat. Stir ingredients. As the mix heats, use a rubber spatula to stir, 

scraping along the bottom to keep any cheese from sticking to the bottom of the pot. 

The tenderness of the ricotta depends on a lower, slower heat, so do not allow the 

mixture to reach boiling point. 

A raft of cheese curd should start to form at the top. Continue to run the spatula 

along the bottom of the pan occasionally. After 30 minutes or so, your mix may begin 

to simmer slightly, which is OK. Watch as the raft forms and the whey begins to clarify. 

Once the raft is formed and the whey is relatively clear, turn the flame off and let it set 

for at least an hour. Line a chinoise with cheesecloth and set over a large container. Pour 

whey into the cheesecloth, holding the cheese back to be placed in the cheesecloth last. 

Let drain overnight. 

Cut corn from the cob, mix with chili flakes and shallots and place in a small jar. 

Heat whey salt until the salt dissolves. Pour the liquid over the corn, making sure the 

corn is completely covered. Put a lid on the jar, turn upside down and mix so that any 

air pockets have been removed. Take the lid off and replace with cheesecloth, using a 

rubber band to secure the cheesecloth. Place in a moderately warm place away from the 

sun for one to two days. The warmer it is the faster it will ferment. Taste occasionally 

and place a lid on top and refrigerate once it reaches your desired level of sourness. 

Turn on the grill, then gather and prep your ingredients. Butter the bread and place it 

on the grill butter side down. Lightly coat the peach in olive oil and place face-down on 

the grill. While grilled items are cooking, place corn and onion in a mixing bowl. 

When the grilled items are good and marked, remove from the grill. Cut the peach 

into bite-size pieces and add it to the mixing bowl. Add arugula and season with salt 

and black pepper. Toss ingredients together, then add enough olive oil to coat. Add 

apple cider vinegar to taste. 

Spread ricotta onto the grilled bread, season with flake salt and black pepper. Drizzle 

with honey. 

For more summer peach recipes go to: www.1859magazine.com/recipes 


Free Writing Prospectus (to Prospectus dated December 23, 2015, as Supplemented by the Prospectus Supplement dated May 3, 2017) 

Filed Pursuant to Rule 424(b)(2) Registration Statement No. 333-208715 

Become a Winery Owner 

Join us as an Owner and help build a biodynamically 

farmed vineyard and winery near Dundee, Oregon. 

Preferred Stock offered at $4.45 per share, 

5% annual dividend ($1,557.50 min. investment). 

To obtain more information regarding the winery and 

an investment, please visit www.wvv.com/ownership 

or call 503-588-9463. 

Jim Bernau, Founder/Winegrower • Willamette Valley Vineyards 

8800 Enchanted Way SE • Turner, OR 97392 

503-588-9463 • stock.offering@wvv.com 

Willamette Valley Vineyards, Inc., has filed a registration statement (including a prospectus) with the SEC for the offering to which 

this communication relates. Before you invest, you should read the prospectus in that registration statement and other documents 

we have filed with the SEC for more complete information about our company and this offering. You may get these documents for 

free by visiting EDGAR on the SEC Web site at www.sec.gov. Alternatively, you may obtain a copy of these documents at 

http://www.wvv.com/prospectus, or we will arrange to send you the prospectus (including the documents incorporated therein 

by reference) if you so request by writing us at stock.offering@wvv.com or by calling us toll-free 1-800-344-9463. 

Summer Never 

Tasted So Good. 

Move the party outside with Carlton Farms. Succulent 

pork roasting to perfection. Sizzling steaks and chops 

luring your guests to twinkling terrace lights. And 

charcuterie paired with Willamette Valley’s finest wines. 

We believe that superior artisan meat comes from 

superior local growers. Fresh, all-natural products 

from our family to yours. Visit carltonfarms.com to 

learn more, or call us at 800.932.0946. Carlton 

Farms, the perfect accompaniment with life’s finest 

moments. 

Y E A R S O F 

L O D G E & S P A 

FivePineLodge.com 

Sisters, Oregon 541.549.5900 

SNEAK AWAY

Here ’ s to 

the forty-acre 

cubicle 

The joy of working without walls, full of moments where life and labor seem to blend together to create 

something special that can’t be found behind a desk. Whether you measure your workplace in square feet or 

acres, a lot of life happens here, and at SAIF we’re proud to be a part of it.

Learn more about SAIF 

and workers’ comp at saif.com.

home + design 

Home Grown Chef 

Peaches and 

Regalia 

written by Thor Erickson 

photography by Ashlee Pierce 

IT WAS THE SUMMER of 1995. One of 

my favorite bands was playing in Portland in 

July, on a rare day off from my job cooking in 

a restaurant. My aging Toyota pickup wasn’t 

running, though, and I needed a ride. After 

asking around, my friend Larry said he was 

going to visit his mother and pick peaches at a 

farm outside of Portland. “I’m in,” I said, “and 

I’ll help you pick the peaches, too.” 

We left Central Oregon shortly after dawn 

and got to the “u-pick” peach farm by midmorning. 

Thankful for the ride, I promptly 

climbed the ladder and start snapping the 

ripe fruit from the branches. Larry called up 

to me: “I’m going to pick up my mom. I’ll be 

back in twenty minutes.” 

I filled bucket after bucket of peaches. An 

hour went by, then two, and Larry hadn’t 

returned. Three and a half hours later, I heard 

a rumble in the distance. I looked up to see 

a cloud of dust coming up the road. As the 

throttling neared, I realized it was a group 

of bikers. As they got even closer, I saw that 

Larry was riding on the back of one of the 

motorcycles, his mom and her friends among 

the riders. They got off their bikes and began 

picking peaches with me. Larry’s car had 

broken down a few miles away and some of 

the other bikers were repairing the engine. 

I took a break to get to know some of my fellow 

pickers. I bit into one of the peaches. The juice 

ran down my face, and I was inundated with 

the most intense summer sweetness. I looked 

around to witness the sunburned, bearded, 

tattooed men closing their eyes in ecstasy at 

this pure taste of Oregon in July. 

As the hours went by, I realized I was not 

going to make it to the concert. The consolation 

prize, though, was a crate of peaches, which I 

held tight, riding on the back of a Harley back 

to Larry’s repaired car. On the drive back to 

Bend, I thought of a few ways to preserve that 

tree-ripened peachiness. Here’s one. 


Fresh Peach Sorbet 

Thor Erickson 

3 pounds fresh or frozen peaches 

1 lime (for 2 teaspoons freshly squeezed 

lime juice) 

1 cup sugar 

¼ teaspoon kosher salt 

DIRECTIONS: 

Dice peaches, unpeeled. In a blender or 

food processor, combine peaches with 

lime juice and sugar and purée until 

completely smooth with no large chunks 

to produce about 1 quart of purée. Pour 

into a fine mesh strainer, pressing the 

purée through with a plastic spatula or 

ladle, into an airtight container. Add salt to 

taste. Press a piece of plastic wrap against 

surface of purée and chill in refrigerator 

for about two hours until cold. 

Churn in an ice cream maker according 

to manufacturer's directions. Transfer to 

a container and chill in freezer for about 

two to three hours until firm.

home + design 

"I bit into one of the peaches. 

The juice ran down my face, and 

I was inundated with the most 

intense summer sweetness ..." 

—Thor Erickson 


home + design 

A Laidback Life 

Two Oregon homes designed 

for outdoor living 

written by Melissa Dalton 

Richard Romagnoli 

Rebuilding a Medford home with the 

outdoors front and center 

AROUND 2011, STEVE AND DAWN CASTELLANOS compiled a 

retirement bucket list. It included building a sustainable home on a few 

acres and spending as much time as possible outdoors, whether on skis, 

bikes or hiking through the woods. They wanted to live in a place with a 

"college-town feel" and cultural attractions. Since they were planning on 

relocating from Portland, they definitely wanted better weather. After 

considering Bozeman, Bend and the Big Island, a friend suggested they 

check out the Ashland area. When they did, they quickly realized it 

checked all their boxes. "We just fell in love," Steve Castellanos said. 

They found a 6-acre parcel with 300-degree views of mountains, 

wineries and the city of Medford, which was only a ten-minute drive 

away. "It was the perfect piece of property," Castellanos said. "But it had 

a house on it." Not only that, the 1970s house did more to block the 

incredible views than embrace them. Still, the site was too good to pass 

up, so the couple bought it with the intention to eventually rebuild. 

In doing so, their priority was to build thoughtfully and better connect 

the home to its setting. "We wanted to be mindful about the house's 

overall square footage," Castellanos said. "Yet still have a sense of 

abundance with the interior. Creating and connecting to outdoor spaces 

does that." In 2014, the couple teamed up with Jason and Kelly Eaton, 

co-owners of the design-build firm Conscious Construction. The firm's 

strength in sustainable construction and landscape architecture was an 

ideal fit. "Our approach, more than anything else, is making sure that 

the indoors ties to the outdoors and everything's complementing each 

other," Kelly Eaton said. 

To that end, once the old house was dismantled and its 

components recycled or donated, the Eatons fashioned a new 


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home + design 


FROM TOP The steel and cedar pergola. A counter makes outdoor eating a cinch. 

home where the boundaries 

between the inside and out are 

fluid. For instance, a 9-foot door 

in the living space folds open to 

outdoor lounging and eating 

areas, gracefully covered by two 

steel and cedar pergolas. A similar 

10-foot concertina window at the 

kitchen sink facilitates easy al 

fresco dinner parties. The long 

counter on the exterior side can 

be used for buffet or to return 

dirty dishes after everyone's 

done eating, making a separate 

outdoor kitchen unnecessary. 

Several "nooks and crannies" 

designed into the landscape 

beckon people outdoors. 

Meander down a winding path at sunset and there's an intimate 

seating area tucked away from the house's lights, creating the 

ultimate conditions for stargazing. On the south side of the house, 

another pair of seats stays toasty from the sun, making it a preferred 

spot for catching up with a book. And then there's the Bocce court, 

perfect for an afternoon game with friends and a cocktail in hand. 

Whether the couple is hitting the outdoor shower after a long 

bike ride or admiring the Medford city lights from the back patio, 

they're discovering how the new house lets them savor retired life. 

Said Castellanos: "It's one of those places where you don't have to do 

much to be content." 



home + design 

A Contemporary Retrofit for a 

Portland Mid-Century 

Bill Purcell 

WHILE MID-CENTURY MODERN HOUSES are highly 

coveted for the good features they offer, including spacious 

floorplans and big picture windows, they can also present some 

unique design challenges. Such was the case with the 1961 house 

that Jean Roque and her husband bought in southwest Portland 

in 2015. As was common to homes built in that era, the house's 

side and a detached carport faced the street, rather than the 

entry. "People would literally get confused when they tried to 

find the front door," Roque said. One food delivery driver called 

from the driveway to ask for directions. Not only that, the home's 

orientation made it so the entry sat right beside the couple's main 

outdoor living space. "We needed to create better privacy, so 

that when people did walk up they're not looking right into our 

backyard," Roque said. 

When the couple moved in, that same yard emanated a sad 

air of neglect. A hodgepodge of overgrown shrubbery and drab 

brown decking dominated much of the slope, while an enormous 

tulip tree rained sap on unsuspecting bystanders. An ugly lava 

rock fountain and makeshift arbor stuck out like a sore thumb. 

"It looked like we should be hosting weddings under it," Roque 

joked of the arbor's incongruity. None of it was conducive 

to entertaining or to the home's vintage style, so Roque asked 

Patricia Acheff, landscape designer and owner of Visionscapes 

Northwest, to intervene. 

Acheff 's to-dos were wide-ranging: create gathering areas 

and much-needed privacy, emphasize the front door, and make 

the overall tableau flow with the Mid-century architecture. Her 

solutions appear deceptively straightforward. First, she worked 

with contractor PGM Landscape to replace the ugly brown 

decking with a large patio bordered by a custom concrete 

retaining wall. The latter shores up the yard's slope, provides 

extra spots for guests to sit and defines the planting beds behind 

it. "When you look at it now, it looks pretty simple and clean," 

Acheff said. "But I don't know how many truckloads of dirt they 

had to haul out to get there." A tight-knot cedar screen does 

double-duty, highlighting the front entry and fostering 

privacy. "It directs you to the front door and also blocks 

off the living space behind it," Acheff said. 


Copenhagen bed, $ 1399 and dresser, $ 1699; Jax end table, $ 399. 

380 Northwest 13th Avenue, Portland 

roomandboard.com

" This is the tenth home I have bought, and sold 

just as many. No agent that I've worked with 

had the knowledge, responsiveness, drive, 

communication skills and just plain world class 

customer service that I received from Laura & 

Natalie. On a scale of 1 to 10 they get an 11." 

— Jay B. 

DREAM BIG 

Bend,Oregon 

B 

C 

A 63970 

F 60475 

Tyler Rd 

Sunset View Dr 

$2,750,000 $1,600,000 

A 

B 708 

G 19550 

NW Riverside Blvd Green Lakes Lp 

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home + design 

Bill Purcell 

FROM LEFT Entrance to the Roque home with dividing wall. A view of the patio. 

The Roque family dining room. 

Bill Purcell 

Acheff played off the home's vernacular by specifying 

the patio pavers in a tight grid and using horizontal slats 

for the screen. Then Roque picked out low-slung furniture 

from Restoration Hardware in one of her favorite colors and 

a popular Mid-century hue: orange. For a finishing touch, 

Acheff pared back the existing shrubbery and wove in 

architectural plants, as well as grasses and conifers. 

Now, the Roques can use their backyard for relaxed 

weekend lounging or to host casual wine dinners with 

friends, as the new setup brings the best qualities of their 

house outside. "It's nice to be able to move from inside 

to outside and have it feel like an extension of the home," 

Roque said. 


home + design 

DIY Backyard Bocce 

Create your own backyard fun 

with a Bocce ball court 

Summer is the season of lawn games. 

Do as the Italians do and celebrate with 

a little Bocce ball. We asked Jason Eaton 

of Conscious Construction to share 

his method for installing the backyard 

Bocce court at the Castellanos home. 


1. 

MEASURE AND CLEAR THE TURF 

An official Bocce ball court measures 13 by 91 feet, but a backyard court doesn't need 

quite so much space—just enough to accommodate good throwing distances. Eaton estimated 

the Castellanos’ court is about 13 by 60 feet. Start by cutting away the sod or clearing the dirt 

in the designated area. Eaton excavated down a few inches to create a level base. 

2. 

BUILD AND SECURE THE FRAME 

Next, construct a basic frame. Eaton fashioned his with deck screws and pressuretreated 

6x6 timbers, which are rot-resistant. Then he drilled holes into the frame every four 

feet and inserted pieces of rebar. This stabilizes the frame and attaches it to the ground. Last, 

he attached strips of cedar to overlap the top of the frame, to give it a more finished look and 

serve as a ledge for drinks to rest. 

3. 

FILL THE COURT 

Inside the frame, cover the ground with a weed barrier to prevent their growth. Next, 

spread roughly six inches of 3/4 minus gravel and compact it. The gravel provides a hard, flat 

surface that drains well, as opposed to dirt. Check that the gravel is level, then add crushed 

oyster shell at a level of one-half inch, and smooth it out. The oyster shell is a Bocce game 

standard and provides a good surface for the balls to roll. It doesn't dent when the balls 

land. 

4. 

PLAY 

Now, pour some wine and enjoy a game. Saluti! 


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home + design 

Stylish Outdoor Goods 

from Oregon Outfits 

Pretty up the table with the Catchall 

from Bend-based shop Steel Life. Just 

fill the powder-coated steel bowl with 

succulents, nestle it in the eye-catching 

walnut stand, and it's Instagram-ready. 

It's so attractive, you'll want to bring it 

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Highlight a balcony or backyard 

pergola with the Disc String Lights 

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mind + body 

Irons in the Fire 

Betina Gozo sets sights 

on fitness stardom 

written by Sheila G. Miller 

BETINA GOZO IS THE KIND of woman 

you’d love to hate, but just can’t. She has 

a body to die for, a face to match, and to 

top it off, she’s a dancer who plays the bass. 

Come on. But it’s hard to hate someone 

who is kind and smart and works her tail 

off for the things she’s achieved. 

The Nike master trainer, who moved 

to Portland from Chicago in September, 

seems destined for greatness, thanks in no 

small part to her hard work. In addition to 

serving as a trainer on the Nike campus, 

doing one-on-one, athlete and group 

workouts and consulting with the brand 

team to develop content, Gozo founded 

her own training studio, Canvas Training, 

in Portland shortly after her arrival. She 

was recently named one of five finalists 

in the Women’s Health Next Fitness Star 

contest. 

Gozo came to the fitness world from an 

unusual background—she played bass in a 

band for five years. 

“I got into fitness so I could keep up with 

shows, so my shoulder didn’t hurt when I 

was playing three hours in a row,” she said. 

“Your body can get broken down if you 

don’t take care of it.” 

Working full-time playing in bars, at 

weddings and other events, Gozo thought 

she was in shape. “I could perform three 

hours with a bass guitar,” she said. “I 

thought I was in shape because I was a 

dancer. But weight-lifting? Game over.” 

As Gozo got into weight-lifting, and began 

to understand that it wouldn’t necessarily 

make her bulky, she became infatuated. 

“I loved the feeling of taking my body and 

making it change,” she said. “And I fell in love 

with making other people feel that. They 

think they can’t be strong, they think they 

can never do the things that I can currently, 

but they can.” 

The Nike campus is home to a lot of busy 

people. Gozo’s job: to keep them healthy so 

they can stay busy. 

“I train VPs, I train the general 

population, and my whole philosophy is 


mind + body 

being able to incorporate tools that will 

help them lead a better life,” she said. She 

is adamant that it makes no sense to train 

office managers the same way she’d train 

an elite athlete. 

“I just want to help someone keep up 

with life,” she said. “I want to help them be 

able to keep up with their kids, to de-stress 

from work because their jobs are so crazy. 

A lot of trainers want to train athletes, 

but I feel like one thing I’m really good 

at is adjustable, scalable information that 

makes sense to people’s lives.” 

Her favorite method of getting people 

in shape is teaching them high-intensity 

total body movements that get the heart 

rate moving. 

“I want them jumping off the ground, 

jumping all over the place,” she said. “That 

burns the most calories, and it also gives 

them that moment of success after they’re 

done. They’re really, really tired.” 

Women’s Health announced June 27 

that Gozo is one of the magazine’s finalists 

for its annual contest to find The Next 

Fitness Star. The contest winners appear in 

the magazine, get a workout video series 

through the magazine, and become regular 

Women’s Health contributors. 

Five finalists compete, and the winner 

is named in August. Gozo pitched a highimpact 

workout that featured mobility. 

“Not yoga and stretching,” she clarified, 

“but movements that will keep you moving 

properly. If you’re not activating the 

right muscles you’re not moving the way 

you’re supposed to, so I try to incorporate 

movements that teach you to move the 

way you’re supposed to.” 

As though that’s not enough, Gozo is in 

the process of developing four e-books that 

will help people of all walks create fitness 

plans for themselves. The e-books will give 

readers an eight-week plan. 

“I want to get people to believe that they 

can do this stuff,” she said. “I think a lot of 

people look up to fitness instructors and 

think they can’t do that, ‘That will never be 

me.’ I want them to now that they can do it, 

they just have to put that work in. But it’s 

definitely something that can be done.” 


artist in residence 

The Art of Oregon 

Fly-Fishing 

written and photographed by John Riha 

THE ROGUE RIVER IS AN OREGON TREASURE, 

brawling its way through 215 miles of rocky chasms and 

rolling valleys, renowned for runs of salmon and steelhead 

that bring fly-fishing aficionados from all over the world. 

It’s not surprising, then, that the Rogue has also attracted 

some of the most talented fly-fishing gear-makers in the 

Northwest, artisans whose creations blend artistic style 

with incredible performance. 

Precision Engineering 

Bob Meiser began building rods when he was a kid in 

Wisconsin, rifling through the trash bins of a local rodmaking 

company for parts to cobble together his own 

“custom” fishing rods. Through stints in the military and 

a move to the Pacific Northwest to become a renovation 

contractor, those childhood impulses never left him. 

Today, he builds fly rods of sublime grace and beauty in 

his Central Point shop, creating some 400 rods per year for 

discriminating clientele who appreciate the quality of the 

R.B. Meiser Fly Rods brand. 

Although Meiser specializes in two-handed spey rods 

favored for fishing steelhead on the big rivers, he can 

make virtually anything. So precise is his methodology 

that clients can give Meiser the name of the river they 

intend to fish, the time of year and the intended fish 

species, and he’ll build a rod specifically to match 

that criteria. 

“It’s very targeted engineering,” Meiser said. “We use 

science to create rods that are poetic and lethal.” 

Engineering notwithstanding, Meiser knows matching 

a rod to a fly-fishing enthusiast can be more art than 

science. “It all comes from your gut,” he said. “All 

fishermen inherently have the ability to recognize a rod 

action they prefer, and everyone is different.” 

A Vietnam vet, Meiser has worked with Project 

Healing Waters and other veterans’ help groups to build 

specially designed rods for those with prosthetics and 

other limitations, often donating rods and 

commissions.

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“It’s very targeted engineering ... 

We use science to create rods 

that are poetic and lethal.” 

—Bob Meiser 

FROM TOP A gold and green Bauer reel. A green Bauer reel. 

Finely Tuned Machines 

JON BAUER IS A TRANS-AM CHAMPION race car driver 

who turned his love of race cars into building finely machined flyfishing 

reels. With tolerances that are fractions of a human hair and 

spectacular anodized finishes, Bauer fly reels are the gold standard. 

His patented concept of a large-arbor reel and one-way clutch has 

revolutionized the fly-reel industry. A relentless innovator, Bauer 

has a passion for continued improvements fueled by building 

better and better race cars. “I’m not influenced by what’s been 

done before,” he said, “and I love precision.” 

Bauer grew up in Southern California where he fished in 

Santa Barbara Harbor as much as he could. Eventually, he 

took to fly-fishing in the trout streams of the Sierras and 

“never picked up a spinning rod again.” 

As his career as a driver wound down, Bauer took to highend-spec 

machining and started to tinker with fly-reel design 

on the side. In the early 1990s, his love of fly-fishing and 

backpacking trumped his desire to be in the race-car business, 

and he and his wife moved to Ashland to raise their daughters 

in a healthy community and be close to the clear, clean rivers of 

Southern Oregon. 

Although Bauer recently sold his business to 

Winston Rods in Montana, Bauer-branded reels are still 

manufactured and designed in Southern Oregon using 

the same tolerances and precision specifications. 



“Each is made of walnut and 

maple that Bill Bittle handpicks 

with a critical eye for straightness 

and grain patterns.” 

PNW Landing Nets are tough and beautiful. 

A Family Tradition 

SOUTHERN OREGON NATIVES Bill Bittle and his son, 

Ryan, began building wooden landing nets three years ago 

after Bill retired as a carpenter and furniture-maker. The time 

was right, they decided, for turning their shared love of fine 

woodworking and fly-fishing into an entrepreneurial father-son 

venture. 

“My dad taught me how to fish,” Ryan said, recalling trips 

to Lake of the Woods and nearby mountain lakes. “Eventually 

we got into swinging flies. Growing up, I was always hanging 

around his shop at home and loved handmade stuff. So building 

wooden landing nets was just a natural combination for us.” 

The Bittles’ business, PNW Landing Nets in Medford, makes 

landing nets as tough as they are eye-catching. Each is made of 

walnut and maple that Bill Bittle handpicks with a critical eye for 

straightness and grain pattern. Strips of the woods are steambent 

and laminated to form rims and handles featuring striking 

bands of dark and light wood. The laminate construction gets 

an extra boost of strength from a waterproof glue that Bittle 

designed himself specifically to hold up in harsh outdoor 

conditions. 

“It’s tough as steel,” Bittle said, “and 100 percent waterproof.” 

The nets are sealed and finished with seven coats of 

polyurethane, each coat sanded glass-smooth with 500- to 600- 

grit paper before the next coat is applied. The Bittles strive for a 

flawless aesthetic, and each of the more than 150 nets they send 

out the door annually is meticulously checked for the slightest 

defect. A fish-friendly rubber net bag completes each gleaming 

landing net. 

“They’re guaranteed for life,” Bittle said. One of the special 

things about the business is getting to work with his son. 

“It’s very enjoyable,” he said. “We’ve always shared the same 

interests.” 


Kendrick Moholt 

STARTUP 64 

WHAT’S GOING UP 66 

WHAT I’M WORKING ON 70 

MY WORKSPACE 74 

GAME CHANGER 78 

pg. 78 

Wallowa Resources has revitalized an area decimated by the timber 

industry’s decline.

startup 

Bend’s CeaBikinis 

are Best 

Hand-sewn suits 

gain cult following 

written by Mackenzie Wilson 

photography by Victoria Carlson 

THINGS THAT SELL OUT in a matter of minutes: the newest 

iPhone, tickets to an Adele concert and CeaBikinis. 

Hand-sewn by 24-year-old Christina Evert, CeaBikinis are 

almost impossible to get your hands on. A cult following swarms 

her Etsy store whenever she opens. Evert sells thousands of her 

bikinis on the site and only opens her shop once every month 

and a half. 

“For the past year, I’ve been selling out in fifteen minutes,” 

she said. 

A true one-woman operation, CeaBikinis are all designed, 

sewn and shipped by Evert out of her home office in Bend. She 

started the business while going to the University of Hawaii at 

Hilo. That’s where she first experienced the thrill of the sale. 

During a test in marine biology her senior year, Evert’s phone 

wouldn’t stop buzzing. 

After class, she opened her phone and saw the notifications 

were from Etsy. “I had pages and pages of orders and I was like, 

holy crap,” Evert remembered. 

She’d only really been trying to sell on the site for about six 

months. In 2015, her grandmother passed away, leaving sewing 

equipment to Evert’s family. She spent the summer in Oregon 

before her senior year of college teaching herself to sew. 

Evert wanted to design a bikini that would fit her body. 

“Everything was made so tight. I have a pretty curvy body. I wanted 

something that looked seamless and smooth and didn’t just fit 

those tiny, surfer-girl bodies, as cute as those are,” Evert said. 

CeaBikinis don’t have any wires or padding. Her bottoms were 

what she first created and are still her best-seller. She credits their 

popularity to how they fit the natural shape of a body. Most bikinis 

have elastic around the bottoms, but Evert’s designs are more like 


startup 

CeaBikinis bottoms 

are a best-seller. 


Christina Evert 

inherited sewing 

equipment from her 

grandma. 

seamless underwear. “The bottoms 

are my go-to,” Evert said. “It’s like 

your favorite jeans. I don’t want to 

do much to change them because I 

haven’t reached for another pair of 

bottoms in three years.” 

The tops are where she 

experiments—she described her 

design process as “trial and error”. 

Evert didn’t go to fashion school. She studied business at the 

University of Hawaii before switching majors to communications 

so she’d have more time to surf and work on CeaBikinis. The 

company was growing so quickly, the lessons she was learning in 

business school seemed intangible. 

“I was doing things on my own and the numbers were real,” Evert 

said. “The marketing had an end point, not just a grade to it.” In 

2015, she graduated with a bachelor’s degree in communications. 

“It made me realize every sale was going to a real person,” she 

said. “I still e-mail every single person back.” 

While many companies have a dedicated social media person, 

Evert sees posting on outlets like Instagram as a break from work. 

Laying out pieces and photographing them reminds her why she 

spends hours hunched over her four sewing machines. “It gives 

me a little bit of pride of ownership to see it (bikinis) actually laid 

out. I get excited the way the customers do,” Evert said. 

The way she sells her bikinis is unconventional. Instead of 

making a bunch of bikinis ahead of time, then opening her Etsy 

store, Evert lets her customers choose a style and fabric then 

custom-makes them. “It keeps it exciting for me because it’s 

always something different.” 

Big brands dream about her extremely loyal customers. Evert 

said some are so dedicated that they tell her when lookalike 

suits pop up on Etsy. “They probably have as many or more 

swimsuits than I do,” she said. She’s thought about hiring people 

or outsourcing to keep up with the demand, but neither felt right. 

Her current situation gives her the best of both worlds. “I get to 

be creative, clock in and out when I want and sometimes that 

means working on the weekends, but sometimes it means taking 

two weeks off to go hike the Inca Trail with my sister,” Evert said. 

CeaBikinis is experiencing a classic, entrepreneur conundrum— 

the tug between business growth and lifestyle, where sewing 

bikinis is a long way from wearing one on a beach vacation. 


what’s going up? 

Food Halls 

The new foodie trend in Portland 


Alan Weiner 

Portland’s Pine Street Market opened in 2016. 


DRINK IT IN. 

wake up to 

Purchase your limited edition* mug at 1859magazine.com/shop today! 

*Available until August 31, 2017

what’s going up? 

Alan Weiner 

ABOVE Patrons inside Portland’s Pine Street Market. LEFT Wiz Bang Bar, one of several food options inside 

the food hall, serves up tasty treats such as this dipped ice cream cone. 

Carly Diaz 

THINK OF YOUR LOCAL MALL’S 

food court. Now erase that image 

entirely, because Portland’s latest 

food trend is upscale, artisan and 

convenient—the city now counts at 

least five food halls, and other Oregon 

cities are sure to get on board soon. 

Food halls—typically large spaces 

with a variety of food purveyors in 

stalls or carts—have long been popular 

in Europe, but the U.S. has seen an 

uptick in the past few years, first in 

New York, Chicago and L.A., and now 

smaller cities like Portland. 

There’s Pine Street Market, a 

10,000-square-foot spot in downtown 

that opened in 2016 and features 

nine stalls, including Salt & Straw’s 

experiment in soft-serve, Wiz Bang 

Bar. Add The Zipper and The Ocean 

to the mix, both micro-restaurant 

projects in NE Portland from the 

same developer. Portland Mercado 

offers a variety of Latino foods and 

other cultural storefronts. Newest to 

the game is the Portland Food Hall, 

which opened in late April just a third 

of a mile down the street from Pine 

Street Market. 

Count on these spots to make 

your next Portland meal a bit more 

eclectic. 


what i’m working on 

Stephanie Whitlock 

Documenting African American 

heritage in Portland 

interview by Isaac Peterson 

Stephanie Whitlock is the new executive 

director of the Architectural Heritage Center 

in Portland, a nonprofit that seeks to conserve 

the art, craft and context of historic buildings 

and places in an effort to promote the city’s 

cultural heritage. She’s currently overseeing 

a unique collaboration that traces significant 

African American historic resources in 

Portland. Funded by a grant from the Oregon 

State Historic Preservation Office (SHPO), the 

project documents properties important to the 

city’s African American heritage. 

How did the project come to be? 

Did the concept come from the 

AHC or from the city? 

With the support of the SHPO grant, 

last year the city made a public call 

for a consultant for an eight-month 

project to document sites associated 

with the African American experience 

in Portland that are significant to the 

city’s history. The AHC was selected 

by the city to work on this project. 

We’ve organized exhibitions, tours, 

and curricula for third-graders on the 

subject, and most notably, in 1995 we 

researched and published Cornerstones 

of Community: The Buildings of 

Portland’s African American History, 

which was updated in 1998 to be a 225- 

page book. 

Why is this project important for 

Portland? 

The buildings and places that are part of 

the city’s African American history have 

in general been underrepresented in 

local and national historic designations. 

This project works to change that by 

laying the groundwork for what we 

hope will lead to some designations 

with the National Register that will help 

raise awareness of these structures and 

protect them into the future. The city 

has had a complicated history with its 

African American population. Urban 

redevelopment projects in the mid- 

20th century led to the displacement of 

African American communities and the 

destruction of homes, neighborhood 

businesses, churches and other 

institutions. Over the decades the city 

has lost so many historic buildings to 

demolition. It continues today at a very 

rapid pace, so it’s important that we 

document the architecture we have and 

try to protect it. If this project can help 

save some buildings, that’s a huge win, 

but at least we will have a record of what 

we may lose. 

Have you uncovered elements of 

African American history in the city 

that surprised you? 

When the project began in 1995, the 

Cornerstones project identified about 

300 buildings associated with African 

American individuals, institutions 

and events. However, as that research 

expanded, 1,284 standing buildings were 


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what i’m working on 

The Vancouver Avenue First Baptist Church has been a significant 

center for African American history in Portland since the 1950s; it was 

listed on the National Register just last year. The church was more 

than a place of worship—it also served as an important civic space 

or even safety net for the black community. It was where many social 

and political grassroots movements took shape, especially during 

the Civil Rights Era. The church hosted many prominent visitors, like 

national NAACP leaders and Martin Luther King Jr., who delivered a 

sermon there in 1961 and was memorialized there in 1968. 

discovered. This current project works to 

refine that number further. This relates to 

something else that many do not realize, 

which is that African Americans lived 

all over Portland, not just in the Albina 

neighborhood. It was after 1919, when the 

Realty Board of Portland refused to sell or 

give loans to blacks and other nonwhites to 

buy houses in white neighborhoods that a 

larger enclave started to develop in Albina. 

How do you approach the research? 

What is your archive base? 

One interesting source the team is using 

is title company records, which help 

determine home ownership patterns, such 

as whether African Americans were having 

new houses built or buying previously 

owned houses. When the original research 

was done in the late 1990s, Internet-based 

sources were not available, so Cathy and 

the team had to do a lot of driving to check 

on which properties existed. While today 

we have online sources such as Google 

maps to assist with the work, they are 

not always accurate and the fast rate of 

demolitions taking place still necessitates 

personal visits to addresses. They never 

know what they will find: a standing 

building, an empty lot or new construction. 

The research is racing against the clock, so 

to speak. 

Have you been able to gather any 

information from interviews of longtime 

neighborhood residents? 

People’s stories, family records and 

photographs provide us with valuable 

information and oral histories about a 

neighborhood and its buildings that we 

might not otherwise know, like who lived 

in what house, who went to what church, 

or how the design of a structure belies its 

actual use. A great example of this is the 

Otto and Verdell Rutherford house in the 

Albina neighborhood, which is now listed 

in the National Register. This circa-1905 

bungalow was the site of some radical 

activism. The dining room was where the 

NAACP Federal Credit Union started 

and the Rutherfords were cranking out 

letters on a mimeograph machine in their 

basement. 

When your project is completed, 

what will change for property owners 

who want to submit to the National 

Registry of Historic Places? 

Our project takes a general approach 

and documents the history, themes, and 

trends of the African American built 

heritage in in Portland, but it lays the 

groundwork for individual owners who 

wish to use it to submit their particular 

properties for consideration to the 

National Register. The data from this 

project will be posted publicly on the 

State Historic Preservation Office website 

for all to access. 


my workspace 

My Workspace 

StumpTown Kilts 

written by Andes Hruby 

photography by Bradley Lanphear 

If clothes make the man then kilts suggest the 

wearer has a corporeal level of confidence. 

StumpTown Kilts is a destination location in 

Portland. Appointments are encouraged but 

there are Saturday store hours at the makers 

space Manifestation Warehouse. Within 

the studios is hipster couture you can’t find 

downtown: kilts. 

Over a decade ago 

an adventurous 

group of gentlemen 

embraced their 

Scottish heritage 

and began a 

journey to find 

ventilated comfort 

amid performance 

pleats—not fleece— 

in Oregon. Amid 

a dozen friends, a 

few beers (or kegs), 

sixteen prototypes, 

shredded materials 

and a basement 

covered in chaos, 

StumpTown 

produced its first 

¼-inch pleated 

4-yard prototype. 

In 2014 the team streamlined into two main 

warriors: John McClain and Todd Michael 

Altstadt. McClain used his steel and welding 

techniques to accessorize the kilt with 

function. Altstadt attended venues and 

festivals to get the word out about their 

boutique mission: real men wear skirts. 


WOLVES 

AND WILD LANDS IN THE 21st CENTURY OPENS AUGUST 11 

Organized by the Bell Museum of Natural History at the University of Minnesota 

1680 East 15th Avenue | Eugene | 541.346.3024 | natural-history.uoregon.edu 

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IT’S ALL ABOUT THE STORY.

my workspace 

The StumpTown Kilt is sewn with 

a nod to the historical transition of 

the Great Kilt (originally banned by 

the British) into the modern Scottish 

Army Kilt of 1796. The handmade 

kilt has adjustable snaps to expand 

or shrink several sizes depending on 

seasonal girth (or a good meal). 

StumpTown offers enduring elegance with 

respect to traditions, but it’s also a modern 

contemporary option for diverse walks of life. 

StumpTown is not a fickle fashion item: the kilts 

are built to endure weather, wading, washing, 

cloaking, fatigue, and with a chuckle McClain 

and Altstadt explain, there is always the 

freedom to go “regimental” (read: undie-free). 


game changer 

Hope in the 

Wallowas 

One nonprofit is helping 

revitalize timber country 

written by Felisa Rogers 

photography by Kendrick Moholt 

ABOVE Kim Phelps works on his family ranch. 

Wallowa Resources promotes and supports 

ranches like these —at one point the nonprofit 

created a program that hired locals to work on 

horseback hazing elk herds off the property 

and back into forests. 

FAR RIGHT A log deck at an integrated biomass 

site created at the location of a closed lumber 

mill with help from Wallowa Resources. 


game changer 

IN 1994, PROTESTERS tarred and feathered effigies of two local 

environmentalists and hanged the figures in downtown Joseph. 

The anger was born of anxiety. Sawmills were closing, jobs were 

evaporating, young people were leaving, and many residents 

blamed changes in federal environmental policy, which now 

prioritized habitat restoration over Wallowa County’s traditional 

sources of income—timber harvest and ranching. The Timber 

Wars were in full swing, forestry jobs were disappearing, and 

environmentalists were seen as the enemy. 

Today that anger is less palpable, but the rural economic 

situation remains largely depressed and depressing. While 

Oregon’s cities thrive, rural communities still haven’t recovered 

from the most recent recession—or the one before it. In many 

small towns, the prevailing feeling is that the economy no longer 

has ups and downs—it just sinks down, and then down again. 

Isolated in the far northeastern corner of the state and 

historically dependent on the timber industry and ranching, 

Wallowa County (population 7,000) should be one of the most 

depressed regions in Oregon. But Wallowa County has hope. 

The current mood of rejuvenation and optimism stems 

from seeds that took root in those dark days following the mill 

shutdowns and protests, when county leaders called people 

together to talk about the massive job hemorrhage. This 

conversation led to the formation of Wallowa Resources, a 

grassroots organization dedicated to revitalizing the county’s 

resource-based economy. The nonprofit would have a profound 

effect on the county’s trajectory from hotbed of resentment to 

model of rural revitalization. 

Its success is rooted in the firm belief that rural communities 

are a wise investment. Wallowa Resources director Nils 

Christoffersen has a master’s degree in forestry and an 

international résumé, but his work experience reflects a bluecollar 

bent. From an Australian sheep station to a commercial 

fishing boat off the coast of Norway, Christoffersen has always 

gravitated to remote areas. While working in Zimbabwe and 

Tanzania, he was inspired to see rural communities transformed 

when the government allowed local people an active role in 

environmental stewardship. He returned to the United States to 

look for a community that wanted to solve its own problems. 

He found it in the Wallowa mountains and rangelands, where he 

was invited to join a fledgling nonprofit that had the unenviable 

task of helping reimagine the county’s economy. 

Despite internal resentment toward environmental 

regulation, Wallowa Resources wasn’t blinded to the need to 

adapt and diversify. As Christoffersen explained, 

“We couldn’t cling to the past. We needed to 

recognize that markets had changed, 

that technology, public 

values, and policies had 

changed. We needed 

to embrace emerging 

science about forest 

ecosystems … and figure out how to maintain our social, cultural 

and economic relationship to the land. This led to the concept of 

a stewardship economy.” 

This focus on social, economic and environmental 

sustainability resulted in an array of ambitious projects, including 

integrated watershed restoration; an outdoor school program 

for kids; management of one hundred forty U.S. Forest Service 

campsites that had been scheduled for closure; partnering 

with ranchers to control noxious weeds; investment in smallscale 

hydro projects; and an integrated biomass company that 

employs twenty-four people, who transform the byproducts of 

forest restoration into chips, poles, and pest-free firewood. The 

facility actually converts its own waste into energy that powers 

the compound’s production systems. 

So how can a thirteen-person team accomplish so much in a 

relatively short period of time? Instead of taking on every project, 

they focus on building partnerships and supporting businesses 

and institutions that have good ideas for creating jobs, cutting 

costs and rehabilitating the land. For example, the nonprofit 

encouraged the Enterprise School District to adopt an energyefficient 

biomass boiler system. 

To assist the schools, Wallowa Resources conducted the initial 

feasibility assessment, drummed up community support for the 

plan and helped the school get technical and financial assistance 

to build the wood-fired heating system, which lowers carbon 

emissions while cutting the school’s operating costs by more 

than $75,000 a year. 

Today Wallowa Resources supports fifty-four jobs in the 

county—about the same number of jobs lost when the last 

mill closed. Around 80 percent of these jobs are private sector. 

Instead of hiring seasonal work crews directly, the organization 

prefers to encourage small business by opening the doors to 

contractors. And it’s working. To date, Wallowa Resources has 

brought more than $21 million to the county. 

But it’s not just money. The outdoor education programs 

have improved school science scores, while partnerships with 

local farmers have led to efficient irrigation systems—reducing 

energy consumption and leaving more water in-stream. “More 

important than our direct jobs impact is the creative momentum 

we contribute. Improved morale, optimism, and hope—the 

sense that we can do something positive to counter prevailing 

trends of the 1990s,” Christoffersen said. 

This momentum is actually drawing people to Wallowa— 

the county has seen an increase in K-12 enrollment, which 

is exceedingly rare in rural areas. And it’s not just the human 

population that’s growing. Restoration efforts in the 

Lostine River have upped the fish count. Last fall, 

around 3,000 chinook returned 

to spawn—up from 

thirteen in 1996. 


THE LEGACY OF THE 

SAWDUST 

CIRCUIT 

Oregon may not have a Major League Baseball 

team, but our baseball history is rich 

written by Erick Mertz 

photos courtesy of Coos History Museum 

IF YOU SQUINT HARD ENOUGH, you can almost force the asphalt to 

fade away and replace it with a battered territorial road. Picture a sawmill 

off in the grassy distance. Follow the gentle billows of smoke as they rise 

and vanish into gray sky. 

Open the window—you can still smell fresh cut wood in the air. 

The knotty hills and hollers along Highway 42’s looping path between 

Roseburg and the southern Oregon coast beg dormant 

imaginations from their slumbers. They force a glance over the 

shoulder as far back as a generation or more. 


The boys from 

Bandon, some highschool 

age, were all 

smiles. 

For the better part of a halfcentury 

spanning settlement to the 

early twentieth century, the Sawdust 

Circuit delivered a unique brand of 

barnstorming baseball to southwestern 

Oregon. The informal league forged 

bonds between the communities 

of people who settled this area and 

infused the future national pastime 

with a pioneer spirit. 

The term “sawdust circuit” comes 

from outside baseball. Originally, it was 

an idiom indicating a route taken by a 

traveling evangelist preacher. Around 

the turn of the nineteenth century, the 

knight of the road was still a vivid figure 

in small-town American life. Traveling 

vaudeville and circus shows came 

around a couple of times each year. 

Salesmen would arrive on the morning 

train with showcases full of tantalizing 

new products, new shoes, fabrics 

and snake oils. This time ushered in 

an entire lexicon around traveling 

vagrancy, hobos and drifters. Much 

like religion and commerce, baseball 

used to come and go as temporary 

respite on Sunday afternoons. 

Accounts of baseball’s barnstorming 

era are scarce. Most historians gloss 

this chapter over, perhaps because it 

is too obscure or it lacks the glamour 

of later eras. Consequently, much 

of what survives from the Sawdust 

Circuit comes in bits and pieces, a 

periodic re-gathering of faded pictures 

and yellowed paper. What is there 

has been pieced together slowly over 

time, attic by attic and family archive 

by family archive. The Sawdust 

Circuit is a people’s history without 

established chronicle, only derived 

through reassembly. 

The present-day data-heads who 

track baseball minutiae won’t find 

much to analyze in this ramshackle 

oral history. Player greatness is 

anecdotal. The Paul Bunyan-esque 

feats of strength have been passed 

down without box score or stats—we 

hardly even know the player names, 

except when scrawled into a postcard. 

The ball fields found in the Sawdust 

Circuit hardly resemble the Europeaninspired 

castles of their big city 

counterparts. There was no Ebbets Field 

along the muddy banks of the Coquille 

River. Instead, the game was played on 

makeshift diamonds, and attendees sat 

in wooden bleachers constructed in a 

semi-circle behind home plate. There 

were no dugouts. Players stood side by 

side, fans looking over their shoulders 

at the developing play. There were 

no groundskeepers to mow and tend 

to the weeds that cropped up in the 

outfield, though someone was on duty 

to extinguish fires, often started when 

errant cigarette or pipe ash sparked 


No groundskeepers on duty 

meant one person was 

on fire duty. 

in the dry grass or the tinderbox 

bleachers themselves. 

Looking back at the pictures, it is 

the omissions we first notice—no 

light towers looming over the field, 

no concourses. There wasn’t always 

a proper outfield wall to serve as the 

boundary demarcating in play or out. An 

old faded photo reveals an outfield lined 

with men wearing suits and women in 

flamboyant hats sitting on blankets. 

The unlucky fielder would circle around 

under the ball, bearing slurs and taunts 

from the hecklers for whom admission 

came with a right to wreck havoc. A few 

yards behind first base, horses graze in 

the shadow of a barn. 

On a postcard dated October 11, 

1898, the Norway Baseball Team poses 

in front of a split rail fence on the 

morning before a game. The nine men 

are all of medium height and medium 

build, wearing stern expressions that 

could hardly be mistaken for a smile. 

In another surviving team picture, 

the boys from Bandon are all smiles, 

linked arm in arm like brothers. A few 

of them appear small—one looks to be 

no older than high-school age. As long 

as the player could throw the ball, run 

and hit, and didn’t have chores that 

demanded attention, he was fair game. 

These players were rugged, hardly what 

we would call, by today’s standards, 

athletic. Players throw harder now. They 

hit the ball farther. Looking at these 

boys, it’s not hard to see why. 

Most striking again, however, are 

the omissions. 

There are no black faces. We see 

none of the Latino and Asian players 

that define today’s international game. 

Baseball has often been called an 

immigrant’s game, and these boys are 

indeed immigrant sons, sired from a 

generation of pioneers that crossed 

the unexplored country on the Oregon 

Trail. The heyday of the Sawdust 

Circuit existed more than half a century 

prior to Jackie Robinson breaking 

the color barrier in 1947. A highly 

competitive Negro league cropped up 

in communities all across the country, 

but the history of black barnstorming 

players is segregated from white, just 

like the professional game was. 

The ball teams were often formed 

out of the places where men worked. 

Around 1912, there was a prominent 

team from the coalmine camp up in 

Beaver Hill. The Coos River teams were 

comprised mostly of local farmers. The 

teams took nicknames, some curious 

and some familiar. The Blue Ridge 

Tigers came from the McDonald and 

Vaughn logging camps. The Powers 

Cubs had two baby bears as 

their mascots. In a uniquely 

Oregon twist, there was a team 


WHEN THE MAJOR LEAGUE 

CAME TO PENDLETON 

written by Beau Eastes 

THE PENDLETON ROUND-UP grounds 

has never lacked for star power or drama. 

From John Spain’s controversial 1911 

saddle bronc victory that inspired Ken 

Kesey’s last novel to Don Requa’s nearly four 

decades of dominance on Friday nights, the 

historic stadium in downtown Pendleton 

has witnessed more than 100 years of blood, 

sweat and tears from some of the top bronc 

riders, bulldoggers and prep football players 

to ever compete in Oregon. 

It also played host to a pair of future Hall of 

Famers in 1915 during an only-in-Pendleton 

doubleheader that featured a “baby Round- 

Up” rodeo and an exhibition game between 

barnstorming Major League Baseball players. 

On Nov. 13, exactly a month after the 

Boston Red Sox won the 1915 World Series, 

the Bancroft Tour rolled into Pendleton on 

a morning train from Baker. Named after 

organizer Fred Bancroft, a Cincinnati Reds 

executive and Civil War veteran, the group 

of American and National league all-stars 

were greeted at the train depot by hundreds, 

according to The East Oregonian. 

Baseball was a big deal in Pendleton—the 

World Series had competed with the ongoing 

war in Europe for A1 headlines in the daily 

paper. In fact, the minor league Pendleton 

Buckaroos won two pennants in three years 

in the Western Tri-State League—the league 

consisted of teams from Boise, Baker, La 

Grande, Walla Walla and Yakima—before it 

folded after the 1914 season. 

Highlighted by aging star Johnny Evers 

and Max Carey, who would retire as the 

National League’s career steals leader, the 

Bancroft all-stars traveled by stagecoach 

with much fanfare from the train station 

to the Pendleton Hotel to eat and change 

before the festivities started at the Round- 

Up grounds. 

Originally intended as a bit of a welcoming 

stunt for the visiting players, the “baby 

Round-Up” so mesmerized the ballplayers 

they refused to warm up until it was over. 

“John Spain rode Angel, Benny Corbett 

rode Nut Cracker and there were several 

who didn’t ride very long,” the paper 

reported the following Monday, providing 

evidence that saddle bronc riders have long 

had a sense of humor about their jobs. “[The 

mini Round-Up] was not much for one who 

has seen a real Round-Up, but it certainly 

scored a home run with the ball boys.” 

Led by Carey, Evers and left-handed 

pitcher Hippo Vaughn, a borderline Hall of 

Famer himself, the NL all-stars topped their 

American League rivals 7-3. In retrospect, 

the AL team was wildly outgunned compared 

to those on the NL roster, with only Yankee 

first baseman Wally Pipp providing any real 

star power for the younger league. Whether 

it was the demanding travel schedule— 

the teams had played twenty-one games 

in nineteen cities over the previous thirty 

days—or maybe a late night in Baker, the 

play in Pendleton wasn’t particularly sharp. 

The American Leaguers made seven errors 

and played uninspiring ball, according to 

The East Oregonian. 

“Harper [the AL pitcher] was not alone 

responsible for the defeat,” the paper 

reported. “His teammates made seven 

very ordinary errors behind him, the very 

kind Pilot Rock and Pendleton and Athena 

sometimes make, and one of the Americans 

pulled a bonehead by walking off his base 

just as sometimes happens in the brush 

around here.” 

After finishing up in just eighty minutes, 

the players packed up their warclubs and 

caught an evening train to Umatilla, where 

they then boarded the Portland-Spokane 

flyer to Seattle. 

“Though the game was not excited or 

brilliant, the local fans were not sorry they 

attended,” The East Oregonian concluded. 

“They had an opportunity seeing some of the 

most famous players in the country in action 

and there were enough special features to 

make the contest worth the money.” 


Sometimes fields didn’t 

have proper outfield walls. 

organized from one of the local fish 

hatcheries. 

Players were not organized. No one 

was paid a salary, at least not much. 

The most money changing hands over 

a game likely came in the form of a 

wager between two owners, or well-todo 

fans seated out on the berm. Local 

mogul Al Powers once offered a $5 

reward for the first homerun hit in his 

park, eventually given to Myrtle Point 

banker Harry Dement, who was said 

to have cranked the ball a mile. Edwin 

Charles “Snake Charmer” Tomlin was 

a pitcher for the Portland Beavers of 

the Pacific Coast League, which at the 

time was considered a high-quality 

professional league. Tomlin traveled 

through Riddle to look at property 

on one of his days off when someone 

thought it would be a hoot if he suited 

up for the local barnstorming team. 

The opponent would be none the wiser. 

A colorful character, Tomlin took the 

offer, hitting a homerun and dazzling 

opponents with his pitching before 

getting in his car and driving back 

home. Those opposing farmers likely 

didn’t know what hit them. During the 

Depression, near the end of the Sawdust 

Circuit, players from the newly formed 

Civilian Conservation Corps camps 

would suit up against local loggers who 

wore the same overalls on the field that 

they wore to work. Accounts of these 

games described them as particularly 

rough and tumble, often ending in 

fisticuffs that garnered cheers as hearty 

as homeruns. 

Sunday baseball came with the 

promise of big bands and barn dances 

following the games. Wide-eyed fans 

brought their own food. Certain 

women were known to give a fresh, 

home-baked pie to players who hit 

a homerun, a welcome bonus that 

surely would not go wasted. Games 

were often advertised in handbills and 

flyers and newspapers with honest, 

simple promises such as “A good time 

is assured.” 

Schedules in the Sawdust Circuit 

were scattershot and travel difficult 

for both players and fans. Wagon and 

car rides got teams across relatively 

short distances. In August 1916, a rail 

connection between the south coast 

and Eugene was established. Trains 

made longer distances easier, though 

not by much. Fans often went by boat. 

On Sunday mornings, baseball fans 

would line up on the river docks to 

board sternwheelers heading up the 

Coquille River to McKnight Field near 

South Fork. Typically 400 revelers 

would get on the Dispatch with picnic 

baskets in hand; sometimes as 

many as 150 would travel on 

the Telegraph. 


The Marshfield team in 

an undated team photo. 

The end of the Sawdust Circuit is as 

ambiguous as the rest of its history. 

Its dissolution ties in with many 

other societal trends, all happening 

concurrently. 

Industrialization and wars forced 

rural America to reinvent itself, and 

no town was immune. Churches 

formalized. The traveling salesman was 

replaced by the downtown department 

store and later, the mail order catalog. 

Baseball was evolving as well. The 

national pastime remained as popular 

as ever during the tenuous years 

between World Wars; how the sport 

was delivered to its rabid audience, 

however, changed radically. Up until 

this point, big-city newspapers would 

give World Series play-by-play updates 

via telegraph. A town crier would then 

read the results to the patient crowd of 

waiting fans. Radio modernized that. 

Within a few years of the end of the 

Great War the World Series found its 

way onto the airwaves. 

As more locals had radios available 

to huddle around and listen to the 

exploits of mythic players like Babe 

Ruth, the audience for the iterant 

brand of baseball winnowed away. 

The Sawdust Circuit managed to 

hang around a little longer than 

most barnstorming leagues, perhaps 

because of southwestern Oregon’s 

relative isolation from large cities like 

Portland and San Francisco, but by the 

time America entered World War II, it 

was gone for good. 

Part of the tragedy in the demise 

of barnstorming baseball is how it 

coincides with the decline of small 

town cohesion. Rather than growing 

up with a determined vision of fleeing 

the farm, young people rooted for 

neighboring farmers, clad in their 

town’s jersey. 

The fields where the Sawdust Circuit 

thrived are today, for the most part, 

overgrown, fallow or paved over. 

Norway, Oregon is an anachronism 

now, aside from a few antique 

reminders. There is no town of Blue 

Ridge anymore. City softball leagues 

organize company teams, but aside 

from loyal wives and husbands and 

a few bored kids, it hardly stands as 

entertainment. 

Some chapters of history, once 

closed, stay closed. 

A few sawmills remain in southwest 

Oregon. They kick up the same aromatic 

dust and deeply satisfying industrial 

cacophony that once defined the whole 

region. Passing through these hills that 

cling tightly to their secrets, you have to 

look a little closer to see the remnants 

of that legacy. Narrow your eyes a bit. 

There may just be a game up around the 

bend. 


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Notes from the Flying Cloud 

A meandering tale of Airstream 

adventures in the Pacific Northwest 

written by Kevin Max 

TTHE ROAD TRIP IS A STATE of mind. Expectations range from 

epic tales of pioneer wagon trains to station wagons and Chevy 

Chase. In literature, we dust off our sense of rugged individualism 

and get On the Road with Jack Kerouac. We’ve pined to reach new 

highs with Ken Kesey and his magic bus, Further. Whatever the 

destination, in the final mile of any road trip, you rarely take the 

trip you thought you were going to take. 

I hooked up an Airstream and resolved to dedicate most 

weekends over the next twelve months to finding new experiences 

in the wilds of the Northwest. My wife made a list. My daughters 

packed bags. My head was in a Silver Cloud. 

Until this summer, my family’s typical road trip took on the 

redolence of a zoo. The minivan was packed to the windows and 

smelling of the prior trip. Was it camping at the coast or trekking 

in the Steens? Maybe just a ham sandwich. 

On the opposite end of the spectrum, the Flying Cloud Airstream 

is 25 linear feet of beauty dressed in a silver pencil skirt. It sleeps 

four easily—five if you push it—has a full shower, a separate WC, a 

full kitchen and a dining area. 

It’s tempting to channel the bravado of Airstream’s 

founder, Wally Byam, when whistling down the open 

road—good-looking, a war veteran and Stanford graduate. 


McKenzie River and 

Belknap Hot Springs 

Young Byam, in the early twentieth century, tended sheep in 

Eastern Oregon near Baker City. He soon began to devise a better 

warming hut for cold nights at the base of the Blue Mountains. By 

the 1930s, Byam had moved into production with the trailer that 

would soon become a symbol of American adventure and the envy 

of anyone with good taste and yearning for travel. 

After signing a partnership with 

Airstream Adventures Northwest 

in May, we would have the honor 

of sharing Byam’s dream and 

Kerouac’s journey. “Nothing 

behind me, everything ahead 

of me, as is ever on the road,” 

Kerouac wrote as he launched 

into the heart of a post-Whitman 

America. “The best way to get to 

know your Airstream is to use it,” 

wrote the author of the Newbies 

Guide to Airstreaming. Stay 

close to home in case anything 

goes awry on the first Airstream 

foray. I took this advice to heart, 

remembering the last time I did 

anything like this. 

I borrowed my friend’s new 

van camper for an easy jaunt to 

the coast. Before my family was 

four hours into the trip, we had 

broken the recline mechanism 

on the driver’s seat, snapped 

the latch to the refrigerator and 

left the awning to be shorn in a 

coastal wind. As I drove out of 

the parking lot at the Airstream 

dealership and made my way to 

the McKenzie River, I was beset with trepidation and determination 

to not repeat my errors. Was the hitch properly hitched? Does the 

width fit the width of the traffic lane? Is this really happening? Just 

a few more miles to Belknap Springs, where Sarah and her Swedish 

friend, Kristina, would be expecting me. 

They had just finished taking road bikes out on the McKenzie 

Pass Scenic Bikeway, a 76-mile out-and-back from Belknap Springs 

to Sisters that is one of fifteen scenic bikeways in Oregon. This was 

a pre-summer Wednesday, before the pass opened to vehicles. 

Sarah and Kristina, however, have the ability to gab, seemingly 

without breathing, on hill climbs while covering topics ranging 

from current events and old gossip to upcoming adventures and, 

of course, the odds of my unscathed arrival. 

I felt like Homer returning 

from his Odyssey as I pulled the 

aluminum trailer into Belknap 

Hot Springs. The lodge is a classic 

log and timber construction. The 

springs were developed into a 

large pool adjacent to the lodge. 

Most of the resort dates back to 

the 1860s when Rollin Simeon 

Belknap, originally a Vermonter, 

discovered the salt springs and 

laid claim to them with the 

intention of building a health 

resort. 

For my health, all I wanted was 

a good drink after a half-dozen 

attempts to reverse into the 

trailer slot. Some campers looked 

on in amusement and disdain, 

smirking from the shadows of 

their awnings and hoping I would 

fail. Then there are those people 

who want you to succeed. “Can I 

help?” A tan gentleman in board 

shorts, flip flops and a T-shirt 

stepped out of the lodge. He has 

had multiple Airstreams over the 

years and was happy to share his 

experience. 

That night we grilled wild Alaskan salmon and oysters that I had 

packed back from Pike Place Market the day before. I opened a 

bottle of Oregon pinot noir and a rosé from Paso Robles, courtesy 

of the fellow Airstreamer. Ah, camping. 

Lying in bed that night, I listened to the McKenzie roar 

past our camp on its 90-mile trek to the Willamette. The 

McKenzie River Trail keeps 26 miles of adventure under its 


well-preserved canopy in the Willamette National Forest. Many call it one of 

the best mountain bike journeys in the country. Thankfully its remote location 

keeps the trail clear of amusement park warriors. “Is there a Stawr-bucks 

nearby?” Pair this trail with a stunning road ride on the McKenzie Pass or the 

Aufderhiede – a ride that passes Cougar Reservoir and on to Oakridge—and 

you have the terrain for a two-wheel fantasy weekend. 

We camped well that night on high-thread-count sheets and got an early 

jump on the encroaching heat of the morning. We set out on a trail run, 

slashing through sunlight piercing the forest canopy. After 8 miles, 

we were back for a quick soak and ready to get back on the road. 

CLOCKWISE TOP LEFT Crossing the McKenzie on a trail run. A soaking 

pool at Belknap Hot Springs. Snag a riverside spot if you can. Wild-caught 

salmon and oysters. 


Eat. Drink. Play. 

GUIDE 

Eat 

Belknap Hot Springs River Grille (Summer only) 

McKenzie Bridge General Store 

Drink 

McKenzie Bridge General Store 

Play 

McKenzie Pass Scenic Bikeway (road 

biking) 

McKenzie River Trail (mountain biking, 

trail running) 

McKenzie River (fishing) 

McKenzie River Rafting 

McKenzie Rafting (mckenzierafting.com) 

Ouzel Outfitters (oregonrafting.com) 

High Desert River Outfitters 

(highdesertriver.com) 

MUST-SEE/MUST-DO 

Soak in the hot springs 

at Belknap. Ride, run or 

fish some portion of the 

McKenzie. 

NEARBY CAMPING 

Cold Spring Campground 

Paradise Campground 

Scott Lake Campground 

Limberlost Campground 

DOG FRIENDLY 

Yes 

TRAILER SERVICES 

Electric and water 

CELL SERVICE 

Spotty, but adequate 

near the lodge. 

HISTORICAL NOTE 

Most of the Belknap Hot 

Springs Resort dates 

back to the 1860s when 

Rollin Simeon Belknap, 

originally a Vermonter, 

discovered the salt 

springs and laid claim to 

them with the intention 

of building a health resort. 

FRESH GRLLLED SALMON AND OYSTERS WITH ISRAELI CUCUMBER COUSCOUS 

INGREDIENTS 

(For Salmon & Oysters) 

2 pounds wild-caught salmon 

4-8 Pacific oysters 

2 lemons 

Salt 

(Serves 4) 

(For Israeli Cucumber Couscous Salad) 

2 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 

1 cup Israeli couscous 

6 to 8 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, to taste 

¼ cup chopped fresh mint 

½ pound ripe tomatoes, very finely chopped 

¾ pound diced cucumbers 

1 bunch scallions, finely chopped 

Salt to taste 

FOR SALMON & OYSTERS 

Grill these on a small tag-along hibachi. Salt 

the salmon generously and grill until center 

starts to flake when forked, approximately 10- 

12 minutes. Serve with a lemon wedge. At the 

same time, place oysters on the grill. Continue 

to grill until the oyster opens. If an oyster does 

not open, do not attempt to pry open and eat. 

FOR ISRAELI CUCUMBER 

COUSCOUS SALAD 

In a medium pot, heat 2 tablespoons of olive 

oil. Add couscous and stir to coat with oil. 

Cook for a couple of minutes or until couscous 

smells toasted. Pour in 2 cups of water and 

bring to boil, then decrease to a simmer and 

cover. Cook for 10 minutes or until al dente. 

Drain and let cool. 

In a large bowl combine mint, tomatoes, 

cucumber, scallions and lemon juice. Once 

couscous is cool, fold the mixture into the 

couscous. Salt to taste. 

PAIRINGS 

WINE 

Rosé: Elk Cove Pinot Noir Rosé 

Red: Chateau Ste Michelle Artist Series 

White: Eyrie Vineyards Chardonnay Estate 2015 

Bubbles: Argyle Vintage Brut 2014 

BEER 

Cascade Lakes Blonde Bombshell 

Ninkasi Hop Cooler IPA

From the McKenzie River, we headed to Oregon’s pie filling— 

Hood River. Cherries, apples, raspberries, strawberries, blueberries 

and rhubarb are abundant in Oregon’s Fruit Loop. 

By now, Kristina was miles high on an intercontinental flight 

home to Stockholm. Into the breach stepped Fiona and Isabel, our 

teenage daughters. 

None of us knew what lay ahead as we drove north to Hood 

River for the Memorial Day weekend. For once, none of us really 

cared. 

Friends of friends, Megan Davis and Clint Harris, have a horse 

property in the rolling hills above Hood River. We had mountain 

bikes in back as we marveled at the bumper-to-bumper stream of 

vehicles heading the opposite direction to Central Oregon. 

By evening, the kids were hungry as we pulled into Parkdale, 

essentially a small social hub for the surrounding orchardists. 

There’s a barbeque joint called Apple Valley BBQ and Solera, 

a brewery with locally sourced food, good IPAs and an outdoor 

dining area that backs up to views of Mt. Hood. 

One thing I’ve learned early on about camping in the Northwest 

is never assume that you’ll get the spot you want. Sometimes you 

can luck out, as we did, pulling into narrow gravel driveway opened 

onto a sprawling grass field and buildings accumulated over years 

and for different purposes. We parked the trailer on the edge of 

the horse pasture and began to prepare for our first night of dry 

camping, or boondocking with no hookups for electricity or water. 

A sliver of a moon rose in the black western sky and crowned 

Mt. Adams to the north and Mt. Hood to the southwest with a 

halo glow. 

My mountain bike was finally in a state of repair that took me 

to the next level. In the steep terrain in the area, having a 

functioning back brake was a vital necessity. Last season, I 

had grown wary of skidding out on my front brake and of 


Hood River 

the trees coming at me too fast and too close. Nature was reckless 

that way. 

Clint took us out for “a nice little ride” that lasted nearly four 

hours of steep climbs and descents. We linked together three 

trails—Eight Mile, Bottle Prairie and Knebal Springs—17 miles 

and 3,000 feet of climbing. A 

blackbird perched above this effort 

would have been amused by the 

wondrous surroundings and the 

desperate breathing below. This 

was apparently enough commotion 

to dislodge a bear from the 

underbrush, sending it scampering 

away downhill. 

My lungs bloated to capacity. My 

legs pickled with lactic acid. My 

mind locked into the last climb. We 

finished just after noon, sitting in the 

back of a pickup truck and plotting 

our next adventure with a recovery 

beer. It wasn’t until we were leaving 

the next day that we discovered that 

Clint, who finished the ride no worse 

than he had started it, was on the 

United States’ national development 

team in his younger years. 

On the way back to camp, we 

stomped on the brakes for a sign 

announcing huckleberry shakes. 

Apple Valley Country Store is 

where fruit from the area is canned 

and jarred into amazing finished 

products. We bought rhubarbstrawberry 

jam, a rhubarb-jalapeno spread and huckleberry shakes. 

For dinner, we all brought something to the communal grill. We 

dove into tri-tip, flank steak, grilled chicken and salads of every 

ilk. With dessert came another revelation. Megan is a world-class 

baker, having come from the founding family of the Grand Central 

Bakery in Seattle and Portland. She now puts her skills to work in 

her own Pine Street Bakery in Hood River. Her rhubarb pies were 

unlike anything I’d ever tasted. The conversation easily changed 

from thrilling downhill sections of the ride to the pie’s golden crust. 

Before it came, I made the argument that rhubarb needed a sweet 

sibling to make for a proper dessert. I happily ate my words. 

That night, we slept with all of the windows open. Outside, 

frogs croaked nonsense up to the quarter moon. 

In the morning, we put on our running shoes and headed for 

the nearby Post Canyon—the trails pulling us into the forest once 

more before we got back on the road. 

We returned just as the rest of 

the group was finishing a farmfresh 

egg scramble and Megan’s 

fresh scones. Megan had been 

up early. “No, Dad, you have 

to try this!” Fiona insisted as I 

whipped the batter for Swedish 

pancakes, determined to rise 

to the challenge and create a 

conduit for the homemade 

rhubarb-strawberry jam from 

Apple Valley Country store. 

Cooking breakfast on a gas 

flame in a Flying Cloud trailer 

is a beautiful thing, even if your 

wife is less enthusiastic for your 

effort. “We don’t want Swedish 

pancakes,” she crowed. “It’s too 

much of a hassle.” I continued 

to whip the batter in defiance. 

The local jam and granola was a 

topping that would make us all 

10 percent happier, I thought. 

Should I top it with whipped 

cream? “No one eats Swedish 

pancakes with whipped cream,” 

she said, the implied “Stupid!” 

mercifully withheld. She had 

probably covered that topic too, with her Swedish friend. “Have you 

ever seen whipped cream at Ikea?” Mmmhmm. 

We packed up and wound our way out, Mt. Hood centered on 

the windshield. There is something different, some connective tissue 

between the sight of a snow-covered mountain, a soothing blue 

sky, the saturated green of orchards and the emotional desire to 

explore, to climb, to hike across a field. To join with the others 

who have made these journeys during their lives. With each 

moment, this feeling intensified. 


ABOVE Good views from 

our friends’ horse pasture 

in Hood River. 

CLOCKWISE TOP LEFT 

Daughters and friends 

play volleyball in camp. 

The controversial Swedish 

pancakes. Lamb kebabs on 

the grill. Mountain biking 

the steep trails around 

Hood River. 


For more information on our Airstream Adventures go to 

www.1859oregonmagazine.com/airstream-adventures/

Eat. Drink. Play. 

GUIDE 

Eat 

Pine Street Bakery and Restaurant 

Double Mountain Brewery 

Brian’s Pourhouse 

Drink 

pFriem Brewery 

Brian’s Pourhouse 

Hood River Distiller’s Tasting Room 

Play 

Mountain Biking any trail network (Post 

Canyon, Whoopdee, Synline) 

Road riding the Historic Columbia River 

Highway 

Windsurfing on the Columbia 

Wine tasting along the Fruit Loop and the 

broader Columbia Gorge AVA 

MUST-SEE/MUST-DO 

Ride any trails in the 

Hood River area. Stop 

in Pine Street Bakery in 

the morning. Hit Double 

Mountain Brewery for 

truffle pizza and beer. 

NEARBY CAMPING: 

Bridge RV Park and 

Campground 

Lost Lake Resort 

Tucker Park 

DOG FRIENDLY: 

N/A 

TRAILER SERVICES: 

N/A 

CELL SERVICE: 

Good in the area, but 

spotty on trails. 

HISTORICAL NOTE: 

In 1980, thirteen 

windsurfers tried to surf 

20 miles to Hood River. 

None of them went 

the distance because 

of primitive gear, but 

it put Hood River on 

the map as a premier 

windsurfing capital. 

GROUND LAMB KEBABS WITH WILD MUSHROOM RISOTTO 

INGREDIENTS (Serves 4) 

(For Kebabs) 

4 ground lamb kebabs from your butcher 

1 lemon 

salt and pepper 

(For Wild Mushroom Risotto) 

9 ½ tablespoons butter, divided 

1 ½ pounds fresh wild Oregon 

chanterelle or shitake mushrooms 

halved or quartered 

7 cups low-salt chicken broth 

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 

¾ cup finely chopped leek (white and 

pale green parts only) 

1 ¼ cups arborio rice 

¼ cup dry white wine 

¼ cup dry white vermouth 

FOR KEBABS 

Once marinated and or seasoned with salt and 

pepper, grill kebabs on hibachi grill for four 

minutes on each side. 

WILD MUSHROOM RISOTTO 

Melt 2 tablespoons butter in heavy large skillet over 

medium-high heat. Add 1/4 of mushrooms and 

sprinkle with salt. Sauté mushrooms until tender 

and beginning to brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer 

mushrooms to medium bowl. Working in 3 more 

batches, repeat with 6 tablespoons butter, remaining 

mushrooms, and salt and pepper. 

Bring 7 cups chicken broth to simmer in medium 

saucepan. Melt remaining butter with olive oil in 

heavy large saucepan over medium-low heat. Add 

leek, sprinkle with salt, and sauté until tender, 4 to 5 

minutes. Add rice and increase heat to medium. Stir 

until translucent, 3 to 4 minutes. Add white wine and 

vermouth and stir until liquid is absorbed, about 1 

minute. Continue adding broth and stirring. Stir in 

sautéed mushrooms. until rice is tender and risotto 

is creamy. Stir in 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese. 

Transfer risotto to serving bowl. 

PAIRINGS 

WINE 

Rosé: Maryhill Winery Rosé of Sangiovese 

Red: Cathedral Ridge Necessity Red 

White: Memaloose Idiot’s Grace Sauv/Semillon 

Bubbles: Analemma Blanc de Noirs Sparkling 

BEER 

Walking Man Knuckle Dragger IPA 

Double Mountain Kolsch

ABOVE Daphne Silva before a Hike It Baby 

excursion at the Upper McCord Creek trail in 

the Columbia River Gorge. 

LEFT Brittney Weaver and her son on the trail. 

Hike It Baby! 

photography by Jason Quigley 

WITH ITS MISSION to raise a generation of nature 

lovers, this nonprofit started in July 2013 in Portland. 

Founder Shanti Hodges began with a few families — 

today there are more than 300 branches around the 

country encouraging families to get outside.

Hike It Baby participants 

navigate switchbacks of the 

Upper McCord Creek trail.

Greg Hatten 

TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 100 

ADVENTURE 102 

LODGING 104 

TRIP PLANNER 106 

NORTHWEST DESTINATION 114 

pg. 102 

Bass fishing on the John Day River.

travel spotlight 

Woahink Lake 

written by Kjersten Hellis 

photography by Rick Obst 

WOAHINK LAKE’S GLASSY surface and murky 

water hide a secret. The lake doubles as an 

obstacle course for recreational scuba divers 

and is home to several mock shipwrecks, a 

yellow submarine, and an 18-foot plastic shark, 

Mary 18, named for the dispatch call sign of 

fallen Eugene Police officer Chris Kilcullen. 

The lake is not a tropical paradise, but many 

scuba companies in Oregon choose to certify 

clients in this lake because it is a protected 

area suitable for beginners. 

Scuba aside, Woahink Lake is also a 

natural wonder. Located in Florence, it is a 

cryptodepression lake, meaning it is below 

sea level. The deepest point of the lake is 74 

feet, making it about 36 feet below sea level. 

Woahink also offers great fishing spots to 

catch largemouth bass or rainbow trout. 

Under the lake’s surface lie shipwrecks and other 

delights for scuba divers to discover. 


adventure 

Adventure 

Sl ay Bass to 

Save Salmon 

Catching a mess of smallmouth 

bass on the John Day River might 

help protect native salmon 

written by Mike Allen 

photography by Arian Stevens 

THE ROAD BETWEEN SPRAY AND SERVICE CREEK along the John 

Day River is all spectacular canyon and big vistas, but I kept my free eye 

on the water, scouting for fishing holes. It occurred to me that I had no 

idea what the regulations were, but I knew the water here was filled with 

warm-water species rather than my preferred quarry—trout. So when 

I passed an Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife agent sitting in a 

folding chair at a pullout, I spun around at the next opportunity and came 

back to see if he had a regulations guide for me. 

He did, and he told me to go for smallmouth bass, of which I could 

take as many as I liked, of any size, and by any 

method—bait, lure or fly. This was a pleasant 

surprise since the joke among anglers is to 

always bring your regulations guide and your 

lawyer to help you interpret it. 

Standing knee-deep by the sedges in a warm, 

lazy stretch of silt-bottomed river, two friends 

and I plopped nightcrawlers, spinners and 

rubber grubs into the blue-green water, lateafternoon 

sun roasting away our cares. The 

action wasn’t terribly fast, but every fifteen 

minutes or so, a tug from under the rippling 

plane resulted in a fish the size of a postcard, 

fighting like a shark. 

Smallmouth bass were intentionally 

introduced to the John Day by ODFW in 1971. 

At the time, it was presumed they couldn’t prey 

on salmon and steelhead, since they occupy 

different ecological niches, and when the 

salmonoids swim through, whether coming to 

spawn or leaving as smolts, they’re too big for a bass to bite into. Time and 

climate change have changed that calculation. 

With warmer waters and lower stream flows, both of which favor the 

sedentary smallmouth, they’ve made it into the salmonoid spawning beds 

high up in the north and middle forks of the John Day. There, they benefit 

from “prey naiveté,” meaning salmonoids have no instinctual fear of the 

non-native bass. So anglers who want to have the most impact should 

concentrate their efforts in the upper reaches of the north and middle 

forks of the John Day. 

According to ODFW biologist Mike Gauvin, the new regulations are 

intended as much to reduce complexity as to hopefully reduce the bass 

population. In the past, bass fishing on the John Day was governed by 

“slot limits.” Slot limits allow anglers to take a certain number of total fish 

above a certain size, but fewer of a larger size and sometimes none of 

some other sizes. Cue the “fishing lawyer” joke. 

Steve Fleming runs a guide service on the John Day, taking people 

out for steelhead, salmon and smallmouth. His trips, which often yield 

more than a hundred (released) bass per angler, go through private lands 

where he has agreements with local landowners. But, he said, “there’s only 

one [fishing] hole that [the regulations] affected me on. And it’s one that 

people can drive in to. In the past, I would catch twenty to twenty-five 

bass in an outing, and last year I caught eight.” 

Regardless, Fleming doesn’t like the new (de) 

regulations, introduced in 2016, because he 

says ODFW is relying on bad or incomplete 

information to demonize the bass. He feels that, 

although it won’t harm the bass population, it will 

reduce opportunities for children to catch bass 

from the bank. 

As naive as the salmonoids ourselves, and 

seeking smaller, less popular stretches of water, 

we headed up the Kimberly–Long Creek 

Highway. We made our way, quite by accident, to 

the tumbledown resort at Ritter. 

About 50 river miles from the source of the 

Middle Fork John Day, the water here cuts cold 

and clear through ponderosa pine canyons and 

lichen-encrusted basalt. I asked if I could fish and 

the owner said that, as a matter of fact, he’d just 

spotted a 16-inch rainbow from the footbridge 

suspended over the river. 

I waded out to the middle, careful to avoid 

the potholes in the black basalt riverbed, flicked a green rooster tail 

downstream and reeled it slowly back toward me, savoring the vibration 

of the metal sliver spinning in the current. That first cast yielded a strike, 

which turned out to be a little salmon, 6 or 7 writhing inches long. It 

slipped back into the water and disappeared in a glint of silver. 

The next day I waded out again, repeated the ritual and reeled in bass. 

Nearly every cast yielded a strike, and every strike yielded a bass. Most 

were small, and I considered feeding them to the bull snakes patrolling 

the banks here, but (perhaps misplaced) guilt got the best of me. Finally 

a couple of good-sized fish, 12 to 14 inches, got on and fought hard. I 

slipped them into my mesh bag, gutted and seasoned them, and grilled 

them whole. 


adventure 

A fly-fisherman goes after bass 

on the John Day River. 


lodging 

Lodging 

McMenamins Grand Lodge 


photography by Kathleen Nyberg 

THE DANES CALL IT ‘hygge’ 

(pronounced hue-gah), and we call it 

the Grand Lodge in Forest Grove. The 

ritual of combining and appreciating 

life’s simple pleasures in a comfortable 

setting, creating a sense of well-being 

and contentment, is the backbone of this 

restorative and renovated McMenamins 

hotel. Wizardry meets artistry here, with 

secret stairwells, riddles on walls and 

museum-worthy art on walls, headboards 

and ceilings. Recently celebrating a 95- 

year anniversary, the former Masonic and 

Eastern Star property offers history inside 

and green scenery outside, with trees, 

trails and thrills beckoning a unification 

with nature. Nearby Hagg Lake offers 

water fun, and for the thrill-seeker looking 

to take simple pleasures to new heights, 

there is a zipline park adjacent to the lake. 

Be sure to print the walking guide before 

your stay—fifteen pages of “not-to-miss 

details” throughout the hotel and roomto-room 

historical facts. 

3505 Pacific Ave. 

FOREST GROVE 

mcmenamins.com 

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Hallways are lined with hand-painted art, 

sculptures and riddles at the Grand Lodge. A featured sitting room. 

Outdoor soaking pool. Foot treatment at the Ruby Spa.

lodging 

FEATURES 

A 102-degree soaking pool nestled 

amongst outdoor greenery 

invites relaxation punctuated by 

a restorative foot treatment or 

hot stone massage at Ruby’s Spa 

following the dip. The oddly named 

Doctor’s Office Bar features pool 

tables, board games and a dentist 

office in case you want to lay down 

or get your teeth checked after all 

the wine-tasting. The Billy Scott 

Bar was included in the recent 

facelift and offers a nesting corner 

with fireplace, books and vinyl 

record music. An on-site movie 

theater plays first-run films. 

ROOMS 

Disregard the vintage notion 

of shared bathrooms at this 

McMenamins property—of the 

ninety rooms on property, twentytwo 

newly renovated rooms offer 

a private bathroom and, for the 

summer months ahead, vital 

air conditioning. Rooms are all 

different and honor book authors 

with hand-painted headboards, 

bringing the book to life through 

distinctive art. 

DINING 

Two restaurants and plenty of 

bars on site mean you never 

really have to leave: Adding to 

the aforementioned Doctor’s 

Office Bar and Billy Scott Bar, 

the Ironwork Grill offers all three 

square meals starting at 7 a.m. for 

the early birds, great happy hour 

specials and family-pleasing pub 

fare. Pat’s Corner is a great lateafternoon 

option for soaking up 

suds after soaking in the tub, with 

the latest McMenamins brews on 

tap daily and vegetables grown and 

fermented on-site. 


trip planner 

Hood River 

The city that lives 

by the water 

written by Lindsay McWilliams 

photography by Austin White 

I’VE LIVED IN OREGON my 

entire life but, until recently, I had 

never been to Hood River. As soon 

as I dropped down into the Columbia 

River Gorge while driving in from 

Central Oregon, one thing was clear: 

This city lives by the water. 

Thousands of years ago, the 

Klickitat and Wasco tribes fished for 

salmon on the Columbia and Hood 

rivers as their main food source, 

drawing them to settle permanently 

in the area. Today, the livelihood of 

those in Hood River still rests on 

the water. The tourism that drives 

the city’s economy focuses on 

kiteboarding and windsurfing, beer 

and fruit farming—all of which need 

plentiful water. It remains the source 

of life. 

Everywhere I looked, the Columbia 

River dominated the landscape. Even 

while exploring the bustling boutique 

shops in downtown Hood River, I felt 

the breeze blowing from the river and 

couldn’t help but stare for a moment 

when I found myself 

looking north to the gorge. 

Hood River’s downtown teems with shops, restaurants and bars.

Go Rogue in Retirement 

Come experience the exceptional 

resort-style retirement living 

available at Rogue Valley 

Manor. With spacious cottages 

and apartments, a 668-acre 

campus, a myriad of recreational 

opportunities daily, and a complete 

continuum of healthcare and 

support services available on-site, 

isn’t it time you went Rogue? 

1200 Mira Mar Avenue 

Medford, OR 

retirement.org/rvm 

Rogue Valley Manor is a Pacific Retirement Services 

community and an equal housing opportunity. 

Call today for a complimentary 

lunch and tour. 541-857-7214

trip planner 

Hood River offers a variety 

of water sport options. 

Day 

WATER SPORTS • BOUTIQUE SHOPPING • PIZZA & BEER 

Summer in Hood River is all about water sports. Not long 

ago, Hood River was discovered by the world as the ideal place 

for windsurfing, drawing in thousands of wind-seeking tourists 

each year. More recently, windsurfing’s cousin kiteboarding 

followed suit. 

You’ll want to eat well before taking on taxing water sports, 

so stop in to Bette’s Place downtown before heading toward the 

river. A staple in Hood River since 1975, Bette’s serves hefty 

omelets and specials such as the smoked salmon and brie 

scramble in a no-frills diner-like setting. 

Just north of downtown is the mecca of water sports that 

continues on either side of Hood River Waterfront Park. 

Here you have plenty of options for rentals and lessons in 

windsurfing, kiteboarding, standup paddle boarding and more, 

all within a half-mile section of the Columbia River Gorge. At 

Brian’s Windsurfing, you can sign up for two- to three-hour 

lessons with an instructor and a small group, and courses for 

many skill levels are available. Already an expert? Rent gear or 

bring your own and enjoy playing in one of the nation’s most 

scenic environments for water sports. Whatever you’re doing, 

pack lots of sunscreen. 

Pop into the Ruddy Duck, a fabulous boutique for the Oregon 

lifestyle. 

Grab a bite to eat at the conveniently located Sand Bar Cafe, 

right on the shore in the middle of the action. Fish tacos, 

burgers and gourmet hot dogs will leave you feeling satisfied 

after a session on the water. 

In the evening, stroll through picturesque downtown Hood 

River and check out boutique shops and sporting goods stores. 

End the night relaxing on a couch at Double Mountain Brewery, 

devouring thin-crust pizza and washing it down with cold beer. 

I had the Truffle Shuffle Pizza (think goat cheese, 

mozzarella and white truffle oil) with a Sweet Jane 

IPA, and left a satisfied customer. 


getaway 

to northwest portland 

Come sleep ep with us! 

portland’s unique boutiquehotel 

Surrounded by world-class restaurants, 

craft breweries, coffee shops and boutiques 

ENJOY 

these complimentary amenities 

streetcar passes on-site parking bike rentals 

wireless internet continental breakfast 

610 Oak Street 

Hood River Oregon 

BOUTIQUE HOTEL 

Farm Fresh Breakfast 

Private Baths 

(541) 386-3845 

OakStreetHotel.com 

VACATION HOMES 

Stay, Shop & Play 

Downtown Hood River 

800 224 1180 2025 nw northrup portland oregon 

Conveniently located on the Portland Streetcar line! 

northrupstation.com

trip planner 

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Beer and pizza at Double Mountain Brewery. 

The Gorge White House features wine and cider. The Sand Bar Cafe 

offers fish tacos, burgers and more on the waterfront. 


EXECUTION: SEASIDE BEACH BIKES 1/2 PAGE HORIZONTAL 

FILE NAME: seaside_1859_8.25x5.06_beach_bikes.indd 

PUB: 1859 

FINAL TRIM SIZE: 8.25" wide x 5.06" tall 

seasideOR.com

trip planner 

Broder Øst is located 

in downtown Hood River. 

HOOD RIVER 

where to eat & drink 

Bette’s Place 

bettesplace.com 

Sand Bar Cafe 

Broder Øst 

brodereast.com 

Double Mountain Brewery 

doublemountainbrewery.com 

Celilo Restaurant & Bar 

celilorestaurant.com 

where to stay 

Hood River Hotel 

hoodriverhotel.com 

Columbia Cliff Villas Hotel 

columbiacliffvillas.com 

Lost Lake Resort & Campground 

lostlakeresort.org 

Hood River Hostel 

hoodriverhostel.com 

Best Western Plus Hood River Inn 

hoodriverinn.com 

where to play 

Brian’s Windsurfing 

brianswindsurfing.com 

The Gorge White House 

thegorgewhitehouse.com 

Starvation Creek State Park 

oregonstateparks.org 

Hood River Fruit Loop 

hoodriverfruitloop.com 

Slopeswell Cider Co. 

slopeswell.com 

Day 

HIKING IN THE GORGE • FRUIT LOOP • LIVE MUSIC 

If you’ve never tried Scandinavian food 

before, Broder Øst in downtown Hood 

River is a good place to start for breakfast. 

Come with an adventurous attitude, as menu 

items are by some standards a bit different, 

but nonetheless delicious. The lefse is to die 

for—Norwegian potato crépes stuffed with 

chevre and lingonberry, topped with two 

baked eggs. 

After breakfast, hop onto Interstate 84 

and head to one of many hiking trails in 

the Columbia River Gorge. I drove twenty 

minutes west to Starvation Creek State Park, 

where I hiked through lush forest past four 

cascading waterfalls and up to a viewpoint 

overlooking the striking gorge. Within 

about 3 miles, I found dozens of photo 

opportunities. 

Refreshed by the outdoors and its 

awesome scenery, head back toward Hood 

River for the second thing this area has 

become famous for—the Hood River Fruit 

Loop. The 35-mile driving loop takes you 

past U-pick farms, cideries and wineries and 

farm stands. You could spend hours stopping 

at all the neat, local spots on the drive, but 

I highly recommend first visiting the Gorge 

White House on Highway 35. A 1908 Dutch 

Colonial home (which now serves as a gift 

shop) will draw you in. You’ll stay, however, 

for the wines and ciders made on site, along 

with the food cart that makes flatbreads 

and burgers with local ingredients from 

surrounding farms. 

For a list of all twenty-nine stops on the 

Fruit Loop, ask for an official map at your 

hotel or one of the downtown businesses, or 

head to hoodriverfruitloop.com for a digital 

version. 

Relax back in town with a dinner at Hood 

River’s favorite upscale dining spot, Celilo 

Restaurant & Bar. After dinner, check out live 

music and innovative ciders at Slopeswell 

Cider Co. or the many other bars and wine 

tasting rooms around town. 

At the end of my inaugural trip to Hood 

River—settling down with a pear cider and 

the sounds of live acoustic guitar—I knew I’d 

return to this city by the water over and over 

and over again. 


We’ve got it all in one place. Make Pacific City, Oregon, your 

getaway destination with an overnight stay at one of our unique 

hotels and vacation rentals. Throw in good eats and amazing 

brews at the famed, oceanfront Pelican Brewing Company, and 

you may never want to go home again. 

http://www.marriott.com/SLERI 

503-585-6500 

Stay - Play - Relax 

Book your room today! 

640 Hawthorne Ave SE - Salem, OR 97301

northwest destinations 

More Than Twilight 

The Olympic Peninsula wows with the PNW’s greatest gifts 


I HAVE LIVED IN OREGON for 28 of my 37 years. When I was a 

child, my family took us on trips all over the Pacific Northwest—to 

watch sheep being born at Oregon State University, to see the ash 

and sediment left behind by Mt. St. Helens, to visit the Maryhill 

Museum’s Stonehenge memorial. We wandered through Shaniko 

and visited family in Yakima and rode the alpine slides at Mt. Hood. 

But somehow, in all that time, I never made it to the Olympic 

Peninsula until this spring. This was a tragic oversight, because 

the Olympic Peninsula combines all of the Pacific Northwest’s 

greatest gifts—seafood, forests, rippling water and a heaping dose 

of quaint charm. 

First, the facts. The Olympic Peninsula is huge and virtually every 

inch of it beautiful and interesting. The center of the peninsula is 

dominated by Olympic National Park and surrounding national 

forestland. You can spend three days or three weeks and still have 

dozens more spots to explore. 

Cutting over from I-5 near Olympia, one mandatory stop on the 

way up Highway 101 on the eastern side of the peninsula should 

be Hama Hama Oyster Co. The rustic seafood spot on the shores 

of Hood Canal serves up grilled oysters, local beer and other 

delicacies. Nearby are two of the area’s twenty-two waterfalls, 

many of which are easily accessible from roads. 

If the goal is a quiet, romantic weekend, the Inn at Port Ludlow 

has you covered. The property, tucked away on a quiet marina, 

has water views, a rocky beach to stretch your legs and fine 

dining in The Fireside, its on-site restaurant. Pick from locally 

caught seafood—the scallops are divine—to pair with a glass of 

Washington wine while resting in front of a double-sided floor-toceiling 

fireplace. And if you’re traveling with a four-legged friend, 

know the pup will be well cared for with chef-made treats and 

pet-friendly rooms. 

Near Port Ludlow are several farms available for tours, including 

the Finnriver Farm & Cidery, which makes fruit wines and hard 

ciders. The property is open daily for cider tastings and offers 

music and other specials, like crepes, on the weekends. 

Less than 20 miles up the road lies Port Townsend, one of the 

most adorable small towns in America—the whole city is a National 

Historic Landmark built on a Victorian seaport. Farther west lies 

Port Angeles, the largest city on the peninsula. It’s the spot to catch 

the ferry to Victoria, BC, but it’s much more than that—check out 

the hip Next Door Gastropub for a beer and a burger, Turnip the 

Beet for some veggie options, or Coyote for barbeque. The city’s 

farmers market is small but mighty, and its downtown is filled 

with locally owned shops, including two great bookstores—Port 

Book and News and Odyssey Books & Gifts. Squeeze in a quick 

trip through the Webster’s Woods Art Park, an outdoor 

art installation that will have you craning your neck in all 

directions to find the art hidden among the trees. 

La Push offers picturesque 

coastal camping. 


northwest destinations 

The trail to Sol Duc Falls. 

If you’re a fan of the Twilight books or 

movie series, a must-see on your tour 

through the peninsula is Forks and nearby 

La Push. The setting for the travails of Bella, 

Edward and Jacob, Forks in particular has 

capitalized on this craze, and beginning in 

May, the Rainforest Arts Center opened a 

permanent collection of props, costumes 

and other pieces. You’ll know you’ve reached 

the Center and its display, called Forever 

Twilight in Forks, when you hit the town’s 

only stoplight. Over in La Push, Jacob’s neck 

of the woods, are some truly spectacular 

beaches. Huge downed trees lay strewn in 

the sand, while rock formations jut out of 

the water. If you can get a day without fog, 

hightail it that direction. 

It’s easy to visit the peninsula and not 

find time to venture into the national 

park, but that would be a huge mistake. 

There are no roads crossing the park—this 

wilderness is a United Nations-designated 

World Heritage Site and an International 

Biosphere Reserve, and it is a great spot for 

a backpacking trip, camping and long hikes. 

The variety of ecosystems in this park can 

be shocking—travel from a rain forest to 

some of the 70 miles of wild coastline to 

snow-topped mountains. 

If driving, there are plenty of places to get 

a taste of the wilderness. Hurricane Ridge 

offers stunning views of the mountain 

range and is only about 17 miles south of 

Port Angeles. The Hoh Rain Forest, where 

between 12 and 14 feet of rain fall each year, 

is one of those places that makes you search 

for more words to describe the shades of 

green you’ll see. Several hikable trails start 

from the forest’s visitor center—the Hall 

of Mosses is a 0.8-mile loop that provides 

visitors with a glimpse of the many ferns, 

mosses and tall trees that cover this area. 

A rustic but beautiful spot to rest your 

head in the park is Sol Duc Hot Springs 

Resort. With thirty-two cabins and a large 

campground, it’s easy to settle in for a 

relaxing stay—no internet or electronics 

are available. What is available, however, 

are a freshwater pool and three mineral 

hot springs of varying temperatures. That 

aggressive sulfur smell signifies health to 

a lot of visitors—the hottest of the pools 

hovers around 104 degrees. 

Nearby are hiking trails that lead around 

the national parkland, including to Sol 

Duc Falls. About 5 miles down the road 

from the resort is a viewing area where 

Coho salmon, migrating to spawn, jump a 

small cascade. 

The park and surrounding national 

forest contain five lodges and resorts as 

well as hundreds of campsites, primarily 

available on a first-come, first-served basis. 

Should “rustic” not be your thing, check 

out Lake Quinault Lodge. The lodge, built 

in 1926, is stunning—the grounds are 

even more splendid. A large lawn with a 

smattering of Adirondack chairs slopes 

down to the lake, where you can rent 

kayaks or swim off the dock in the summer. 

It’s the perfect spot to watch the sun set, 

cocktail optional. 

WHERE TO EAT 

Hama Hama Company 

hamahamaoysters.com 

Next Door Gastropub 

nextdoorgastropub.com 

Finnriver Farm & Cidery 

finnriver.com 

WHERE TO STAY 

Inn at Port Ludlow 

portludlowresort.com/inn 

Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort 

olympicnationalparks.com/lodging 

Lake Quinault Lodge 

olympicnationalparks.com/lodging 

WHERE TO PLAY 

Waterfall Trail 

olympicpeninsulawaterfalltrail.com 

Webster’s Woods Art Park 

pafac.org/websters-woods-art-park.html 

Rainforest Arts Center 

forkswashington.org/local-resources/rac 

Olympic National Park 

nps.gov/olym/planyourvisit/index.htm 


EXPLORE OREGON 

eat + stay + play 

ARBORBROOK 

VINEYARDS 

ArborBrook Vineyards is a boutique 

producer of exceptional handcrafted 

wines. Family-owned and operated, it 

is located in the heart of Oregon wine 

country in the Chehalem Mountain 

AVA. Visit the tasting room for a 

relaxing and casual wine tasting 

experience. Weekdays, 11– 4:30. 

Weekends, 11–5. 

503.538.0959 

17770 NE Calkins Lane 

NEWBERG 

arborbrookwines.com 

ART IN THE HIGH DESERT 

Art in the High Desert is a premier 

annual event that brings over 115 handpicked 

visual artists to the heart of 

Bend, OR, in the Old Mill District. 

This juried arts show/sale is ranked 

10th in the nation (out of over 600 

shows) based on exhibitor sales in 2016. 

For three days you can visit with, see 

and buy original art from some of the 

top artists in North America. This is an 

event not to be missed! 

Event is FREE and from 

August 25-27, 2017 

541.322.6272 

artinthehighdesert.com 

THE CHATEAU AT 

THE OREGON CAVES 

NATIONAL MONUMENT 

Cool cave, warm hearth. En route between 

the California Redwoods and Crater Lake, 

this national historic landmark offers rustic 

charm and a friendly staff. Experience tours 

of capacious marble caverns ranging from 

family-friendly to adventurous. Explore 

hiking trails to alpine lakes and discover 

nearby wineries and attractions. Find 

lodging, fine dining, a regional artisan gift 

gallery and an authentic 1930s-style café. 

541.592.3400 

20000 Caves Hwy. 

CAVE JUNCTION 

oregoncaveschateau.com 

Rabbit Tales Georgia Gerber 

NW BY NW GALLERY 

Original art by regional masters defines 

this destination gallery. Celebrating 30 

years of excellence with public sculpture 

by gallery artists throughout Cannon 

Beach. NW By NW Gallery represents 

a collector’s selection of bronze 

sculpture by renowned public sculptor 

Georgia Gerber. Visit the Sculpture 

Garden featuring contemporary 

sculptor Ivan McLean. 

503.436.0741 

232 N Spruce St. 

CANNON BEACH 

nwbynwgallery.com 

HISTORIC BALCH HOTEL 

Relax. Reconnect. Rejuvenate. 

This boutique inn is truly a unique 

destination perched between the 

Columbia River Gorge and Oregon’s 

High Desert. This historic hotel 

offers vintage charm and elegance, 

surrounded by sun and spacious rolling 

golden hills, just south of The Dalles 

and I-84. It’s a short drive but you’ll feel 

like you’re a world away. On-site dining 

and spa services. 

541.467.2277 

40 Heimrich St. 

DUFUR 

balchhotel.com 

OREGON GARDEN RESORT 

Escape to Oregon Garden Resort, a 

103-room, pet-friendly resort set amid 

an 80-acre botanical wonder showcasing 

thousands of plants in more than 20 

colorful specialty gardens. There’s 

something for everyone! Explore rare 

conifers, beautiful water features, garden 

art, a 400-year-old Signature Oak tree, a fun 

garden just for kids, pet-friendly plants and 

more. After exploring, relax in the resort 

with a spa treatment, a gourmet dinner and 

cocktail and live music nightly. Fun events 

happen throughout the year, including an 

annual Brewfest over Father’s Day weekend, 

and Christmas in the Garden featuring 

lights, ice skating and artisan vendors each 

holiday season. 

503.874.2500 

895 W Main St. 

SILVERTON 

oregongardenresort.com 


eat + stay + play 

EXPLORE OREGON 

CASCADE LAKES 

BREWING COMPANY 

On the road to Mt. Bachelor you’ll find 

the warm and welcoming Cascade 

Lakes Brewing Company Lodge. 

Enjoy 16 liquids on draft, a full bar, 

pool table and darts. You can also visit 

the flagship location in Redmond on 

7th Street. A local favorite for Taco 

Wednesdays, horseshoes and great 

hometown feel. Cheers! 

541.388.4998 

1441 SW Chandler Ave. #100 

BEND 

cascadelakes.com 

THE OLD MILL DISTRICT 

The Old Mill District is Bend’s 

most unique shopping, dining and 

entertainment experience. The rich 

history of the former sawmills is coupled 

with spectacular mountain views, scenic 

river vistas and an extensive trail system 

to enjoy the outdoors. More than 55 

local, regional and national retailers and 

restaurants call the Old Mill District 

home. Riverside restaurants, trails, shops 

and shows. Bend is here. 

541.312.0131 

450 SW Powerhouse Dr. 

BEND 

theoldmill.com 

THUMP COFFEE 

At Thump, every coffee has a unique 

story. Through years of perfecting and 

simplifying the process, Thump is able 

to honor the journey, the complexities 

and the people that are inseparable 

from every coffee it roasts. Located 

in the heart of downtown Bend, 

Thump serves coffee with enthusiastic 

customer service and the utmost 

integrity. Don’t just drink coffee— 

experience it. 

541.388.0226 

25 NW Minnesota Ave. 

BEND 

thumpcoffee.com 

PINE RIDGE INN 

The Pine Ridge Inn is tucked between 

the trees & the Deschutes River in 

Bend. Surrounded by nature, minutes 

from downtown and walking distance 

to the Old Mill District and Les Schwab 

Amphitheatre. Known for exceptional 

guest service, The Pine Ridge Inn is a 

unique combination of a small boutique 

hotel and the personalized experience 

from a top-notch bed and breakfast. 

Pine Ridge Inn offer special romance 

packages too! 

541.600.4095 

1200 SW Mt. Bachelor Dr. 

BEND 

pineridgeinn.com 

NANCY P’S 

Located just off Newport on Bend’s 

west side you’ll find Nancy P’s 

Café & Bakery, a local mainstay 

that has become a unique part of 

the community. Serving breakfast, 

lunch and delicious baked goods 

made fresh daily. Come and enjoy 

the cozy atmosphere while taking 

in the featured local artwork that’s 

always on display. With fresh 

Bellatazza coffee and Metolius teas, 

Nancy P’s is sure to become your 

new favorite bakery destination! 

541.322.8778 

1054 NW Milwaukee Ave. 

BEND 

nancyps.com 

BROWN OWL 

Tucked away in the Upper Old Mill District, 

you’ll find The Brown Owl. Known for 

food cart fare which specializes in burgers, 

sandos and salads, The Brown Owl offers 

food options for everyone, 14 rotating taps 

and handcrafted cocktails to make every 

experience cozy and special. Come by before 

or after a day at the mountain and find 

out for yourself why Brown Owl is quickly 

becoming a locals’ favorite. 

541.797.6581 

550 SW Industrial Way, Ste 120 

BEND 

brownowlbend.com 


Pursuing excellence 

through fitness 

61615 Athletic Club Drive (541) 385-3062

1859 MAPPEDThe points of interest below are culled from 

stories and events in this edition of 1859. 

Live 

Think 

Explore 

22 

Ewethful Fiber Farms and Mill 

59 

CeaBikinis 

96 

Woahink Lake 

22 

Oregon Country Fair 

60 

Portland Mercado 

98 

John Day River 

32 

Bendistillery 

61 

StumpTown Kilts 

104 

McMenamins Grand Lodge 

36 

Jossy Farm 

62 

Architectural Heritage Center 

106 

Hood River 

52 

R.B. Meiser Fly Rods 

64 

Wallowa Resources 

113 

Olympic National Park 


Until Next Time 

Of Blackberries 

written by Eswen Allison Hart 

FORESTS OF BLACKBERRY 

bushes flourished in the undeveloped 

blocks south of our house in the 

valley. In late summer, we rode our 

bikes past the mown lawns and new 

ranch-style houses, beyond where 

the sidewalks ended and disorder 

began. We carried old cans in my 

white, flowered bike basket or in 

a bag looped over my brother’s 

stingray handlebars. Sometimes our 

parents came along to harvest the 

highest berries. 

But many of the berries were 

within our reach—we had ramps 

of boards culled from the constant 

construction of new homes that got 

closer every year. These discards 

were casually tossed up and onto the 

bushes, creating a sort of boardwalk 

into the air, lifting us beyond the easy 

picking at eye level. If we fell off a 

board, we knew, there was certain 

death, or something like it, in the 

tangle of brambles below. But we 

never fell. 

The blackberries were a labyrinth 

of undergrowth—there were paths 

and alleys worn between the bushes, 

much like an overgrown Victorian 

library, its aisles crowded with 

thorns and leaves and overhung with 

alder branches snagged by striving 

canes. The sky above was blotted 

out by impenetrable thicket—within 

this copse we stood on boards or 

on the duff and smashed berries. 

Insects sleepwalked in the still, 

buzzing near-silence of these gothic 

halls of vegetation. 

The days were long and hot in 

the valley, so we tended to wait for 

our picking until about the time the 

sprinklers came on after dinner. The 

blackberry leaves were still dusty 

warm but the brambles seemed 

somehow less sharp in early evening. 

By the time we’d filled our cans, our 

arms and legs were covered with 

scratches, some smeared purple with 

blackberry juice, some healing over 

from earlier visits. 

We had no incentive to pick the 

berries except for the promise of pie. 

Most of the berries, however, went 

into making jam—quarts and quarts 

of homemade jam. As a child, I didn’t 

know there was any other kind. And I 

didn’t realize that a person could buy 

jam—that I myself would buy jam— 

until I moved away from Oregon and 

wanted some for my toast. 

My mother needed dozens of 

brimming cans to make jam enough 

to see our family through the year. 

The jam was good, but we took it for 

granted. The pie was better, and more 

immediate. A pie could be made right 

then, that night, and eaten still warm 

with ice cream while the sprinklers 

were still going and the sky was not 

yet completely dark. 

Those blackberries of my 

childhood are gone, replaced by 

houses and driveways and aboveground 

swimming pools and 

swingsets. But there are blackberries 

all around if you know where to 

look, and we still go out together to 

fill our buckets. I’ve experimented 

with blackberry crumble, blackberry 

crisp and blackberry tarts, but 

nothing has ever been so good as 

blackberries made into a real pie. A 

pie with a flaky browned crust (you 

have to leave the pie in the oven 

long enough to brown the crust), 

a pie not too sugary and not sticky 

with cornstarch. A pie that emerges 

from the oven bubbling with berries 

molten in their own juice. A pie filled 

to the brim with the ripest, sweetest 

blackberries, picked in my memory 

at the end of my street, out beyond 

where the neighborhood ended and 

the wilderness began.

July | August 2017

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