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Tokyo Weekender July 2016

Breaking the rules of kimono – a new book shatters antiquated views of this traditional garment. Plus: The boys for sale in Shinjuku Ni-chome, best sake of 2017, Japan's new emperor, and what really goes on inside "Terrace House."

Breaking the rules of kimono – a new book shatters antiquated views of this traditional garment. Plus: The boys for sale in Shinjuku Ni-chome, best sake of 2017, Japan's new emperor, and what really goes on inside "Terrace House."

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THE MISUNDERSTOOD<br />

CROWS OF TOKYO<br />

Love or hate them, the city’s gigantic crows cannot be ignored. To make sense<br />

of their place in the concrete jungle, we look at their longheld connection with<br />

Japan, and some surprising lessons we can learn from these sometimes smart,<br />

sometimes foolish “urban guerrillas of birds”<br />

Words by Alec Jordan<br />

In Japan, the public perception of crows got off to a pretty<br />

good start: According to the Kojiki and the Nihonshoki, two<br />

of Japan’s oldest written records, a gigantic crow known as<br />

the Yatagarasu guided the mythical first emperor of Japan<br />

to the part of the country now known as Nara. This crow,<br />

which is often depicted with three legs, can be found at the Kumano<br />

shrines of Japan, and even more commonly, on the uniforms<br />

of the Samurai Blue – Japan’s national soccer team.<br />

But even though they have been common figures in art from<br />

well before the Edo period, crows are generally seen with a mixed<br />

perspective in Japan. On one hand, you have the traditional song<br />

“Yuyake Koyake,” which plays on loudspeakers every afternoon<br />

and whose lyrics tell us return home like the crows return to<br />

their roosts in the trees, but there are also still the associations<br />

of the birds with death – even today, there is a superstition that<br />

if a crow perches on a house at night and calls out, someone in<br />

that house will die before long. We may be happy to return home<br />

like crows – as straight as they fly – but we don’t necessarily want<br />

them roosting with us.<br />

Today, perhaps, the biggest problem that people face with<br />

crows around <strong>Tokyo</strong> is trying to keep them out of their garbage.<br />

And the birds can cause other kinds of trouble as well: the <strong>Tokyo</strong><br />

Metropolitan Government receives some 600 calls a year from<br />

<strong>Tokyo</strong>ites who’ve been attacked by crows – most often in spring,<br />

around the time when the birds are hatching their eggs and raising<br />

their newborn young.<br />

Nonetheless, crows have their fans in <strong>Tokyo</strong>, just as they do<br />

everywhere around the world. Why? It could be their intelligence<br />

– crows know how to use tools, they recognize human faces, and<br />

they’ve even been observed to hold what look to be funerals. It<br />

might be their distinctive voices: crows and their larger cousin<br />

the ravens are believed to possess some of the most complicated<br />

vocabulary of calls of any bird. Or maybe it’s a shared sense<br />

of play. The birds have been seen using wind currents like children<br />

might use waterslides, throwing paper to themselves, going

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