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Tokyo Weekender July 2016

Breaking the rules of kimono – a new book shatters antiquated views of this traditional garment. Plus: The boys for sale in Shinjuku Ni-chome, best sake of 2017, Japan's new emperor, and what really goes on inside "Terrace House."

Breaking the rules of kimono – a new book shatters antiquated views of this traditional garment. Plus: The boys for sale in Shinjuku Ni-chome, best sake of 2017, Japan's new emperor, and what really goes on inside "Terrace House."

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When his parents were away Naruhito<br />

would be left with nannies who were<br />

given written instructions by Michiko on<br />

how to take care of him. He was allowed<br />

no more than one toy at a time and had to<br />

be hugged at least once a day. This list of<br />

rules was turned into a best-selling book<br />

titled Naru-chan Kenpo (The Naruhito<br />

Constitution) that’s still popular today.<br />

From all accounts, Naruhito was<br />

said to have had a happy and relatively<br />

normal upbringing, especially when<br />

compared to his ancestors. His father<br />

allegedly gave him a hand-me-down uniform<br />

to wear to school and told teachers<br />

not to give him any special treatment.<br />

The young prince enjoyed watching<br />

baseball, hiking and skiing.<br />

CLUBBING, PUB CRAWLS AND<br />

TEA WITH THE QUEEN<br />

In 1983, a year after graduating from Gakushuin<br />

University, Naruhito decided to<br />

move to the UK where he did a master’s<br />

degree on the history of transportation<br />

on the River Thames at Oxford University’s<br />

Merton College. More important<br />

than his classroom studies, however,<br />

were the life lessons he learnt during his<br />

two years in Britain.<br />

For the first time, the prince had to<br />

fend for himself and seemed to revel<br />

in it. In his book, The Thames and I: A<br />

Memoir of Two Years at Oxford, he wrote,<br />

“This had been a happy time for me –<br />

perhaps I should say the happiest time of<br />

my life.” The autobiographical account,<br />

whilst not exactly hard-hitting, gives<br />

a fascinating insight into the personal<br />

escapades of a man whose privacy is<br />

usually closely guarded.<br />

Much of his first week in England<br />

was spent in the company of the royal<br />

family, including the Queen, who impressed<br />

him with her laid-back manner<br />

and the fact that she poured him a cup of<br />

tea herself. Shortly after, he moved into<br />

a shared dormitory in Oxford where he<br />

learnt how to iron and use the coin laundry<br />

machine, though his first attempt at<br />

the latter ended with him almost flooding<br />

the room.<br />

One of his favorite pastimes was discussing<br />

music over a few pints. He even<br />

went on a few pub crawls. The prince<br />

apologizes to the British public for not<br />

getting to grips with the rules of cricket,<br />

but did participate in many British<br />

sports such as tennis and rowing. It was<br />

an exciting time for a man who, under<br />

normal circumstances, can barely move<br />

without asking for permission.<br />

“I met the crown prince twice,” says<br />

social anthropologist Joy Hendry. “On<br />

the second occasion, I sat opposite his<br />

personal body guard who told me how<br />

much the prince loved being in Oxford<br />

because he could walk about in the<br />

streets and the local market where nobody<br />

recognized him, which made him<br />

feel free like any other student.”<br />

Around the city Naruhito would<br />

usually wear jeans, much to the surprise<br />

of Japanese tourists. His casual attire got<br />

him turned away from a nightclub, yet that<br />

didn't put him off. He went to a different<br />

club at a later date, dancing with girls until<br />

2am. “Perhaps this was the first and last<br />

disco I would go to in my life,” he remarked.<br />

In October 1985 Naruhito departed<br />

from the UK. “As the London scene gradually<br />

disappeared from view I realized that<br />

an important chapter in my life was over.<br />

A new page was opening, but I felt a large<br />

void in my heart, and as I stared out of the<br />

window of the plane I had a lump in my<br />

throat.”<br />

IN PURSUIT OF A PRINCESS<br />

Back in Japan, Naruhito’s activities were<br />

far more constricted, and being in his<br />

mid-twenties he was under pressure to find<br />

a bride. He could reportedly choose one<br />

himself, but she had to meet the approval<br />

of a committee of palace officials. The plan<br />

was to have him married off before reaching<br />

30, yet despite numerous candidates<br />

being put forward the prince remained<br />

single at 32.<br />

I FELT A LARGE VOID<br />

IN MY HEART, AND AS<br />

I STARED OUT OF THE<br />

WINDOW OF THE PLANE<br />

I HAD A LUMP IN MY<br />

THROAT<br />

His first choice was Harvard graduate<br />

Masako Owada, whom he pursued for six<br />

years after they met at a banquet for the<br />

Duchess of Lugo in 1986. Coming from<br />

a wealthy family, she ticked most of the<br />

committee’s boxes: highly educated, multilingual<br />

and, crucially, slightly shorter than<br />

the prince.<br />

One problem was the controversy surrounding<br />

her maternal grandfather, Yutaka<br />

Egashira. He was the former chairman<br />

of Chisso Corporation, a chemical company<br />

that dumped mercury-laden<br />

industrial waste into<br />

the bay off Minamata<br />

in Kyushu, leading to<br />

the onset of Minamata<br />

Disease. Thousands<br />

were affected by the<br />

neurological syndrome,<br />

which in extreme cases,<br />

led to insanity, paralysis<br />

and death. Though not<br />

directly involved in the<br />

scandal, Egashira’s association<br />

with Chisso was seen<br />

as potentially damaging<br />

for the imperial family.<br />

Despite this, Naruhito was still determined<br />

to wed Masako. Unfortunately, she<br />

wasn’t so keen. Twice she turned down<br />

his proposals as it would mean giving up a<br />

budding career as a diplomat for the constrained<br />

life of a princess. Not one to give<br />

in, Naruhito tried a third time and finally<br />

got his wish.<br />

Speaking at a press conference after<br />

their wedding in 1993, Crown Princess<br />

Masako said, “His Highness told me that<br />

‘you may have many worries and anxieties<br />

about entering the imperial house, but I<br />

will do everything in my power to protect<br />

you as long as I live.’”<br />

Despite the support of her husband,<br />

Masako has struggled with life as a royal.<br />

Under pressure to produce a male heir,<br />

she miscarried in 1999. Two years later<br />

Princess Aiko was born; however, as Japan<br />

operates under a system of agnatic<br />

primogeniture, this did little to solve the<br />

succession problem. It was all getting too<br />

much for the future empress.<br />

Speaking to journalists in 2004, Naruhito<br />

said, “Princess Masako still faces ups and<br />

downs in terms of her health. She’s worked<br />

hard to adapt to the environment of the<br />

Imperial Household for the past decade,<br />

but from what I can see, she's completely<br />

exhausted herself in trying to do so.”<br />

It was announced that Masako was suffering<br />

from adjustment disorder, a mental<br />

condition brought on by stress, making it<br />

difficult for her to carry out official duties.<br />

The birth of Prince Hisahito – son of the<br />

crown prince’s brother and third in line for<br />

the throne – reduced some of the pressure.<br />

Her condition is said to have improved<br />

slightly in recent years, but public appearances<br />

remain sporadic. Whether that<br />

will change when she becomes empress<br />

remains to be seen.<br />

As for Naruhito, this is a role he has<br />

been preparing for since childhood. His<br />

amiable father, ably supported by wife<br />

Michiko, is held in high regard for prioritizing<br />

disaster victims, championing the<br />

cause of marginalized people and attempting<br />

to reconcile with countries affected by<br />

Japan’s colonialism and wartime aggression.<br />

The hope is that his son will devote<br />

himself to the role of emperor in a similar<br />

fashion.

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