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TRANSITIONAL HICCUPS<br />
A QUESTION OF<br />
PRIORITIES<br />
Text: Uday Sunder Shrestha. Images: Courtesy: Shyam S.L. Kakshapati<br />
Tansen, often referred to as Palpa, <strong>is</strong> one<br />
of the few towns outside Kathmandu that<br />
bears a rich legacy of traditional art and<br />
architecture. Situated on the southern slope<br />
of a hill at an elevation of about 1350<br />
metres, Tansen overlooks the Madi Valley<br />
and the terai, and on clear days, offers a<br />
magnificent view of the Himalayas from<br />
Dhaulagiri in the west to Gaur<strong>is</strong>hankar in<br />
the northeast. Although th<strong>is</strong> quiet and<br />
pollution free town <strong>is</strong> 300 kilometres west<br />
from Kathmandu, its character and<br />
architecture seem strongly influenced by<br />
Newari migrants from the Kathmandu<br />
Valley with Newari style houses, cobbled<br />
streets, Rana (neo-classical) style buildings,<br />
pagoda temples, shrines and stupas. As<br />
h<strong>is</strong>tory has it, when Muslims invaded India<br />
during the 15th century, many kings and<br />
clans fled to the northern Himalayan<br />
region, some of whom conquered the local<br />
kings and establ<strong>is</strong>hed their own states. The<br />
former Sen Dynasty of Palpa, founded by<br />
Rudra Sen, has its roots in those days, and<br />
under the reign of h<strong>is</strong> son Mukunda Sen<br />
(1518-1553), the kingdom of Palpa, with<br />
Tansen as its capital, spread as far as<br />
modern India to the south and<br />
Kathmandu to the east. Mukunda Sen even<br />
invaded Kathmandu but was unsuccessful.<br />
In the late eighteenth century, Palpa<br />
TANSEN DURBAR<br />
Built in 1927 AD by General Pratap<br />
Shamsher J B Rana, the durbar with its<br />
neo-classical touches, was an imposing<br />
palace in the heart of the town. Once the<br />
seat of the Rana governors, the Durbar<br />
was the d<strong>is</strong>trict secretariat of Palpa d<strong>is</strong>trict<br />
before it was burnt down recently on<br />
January 31, 2006. It was a four-storied<br />
building with sixty-three rooms, two<br />
meeting halls and two towers at the two<br />
front corners.<br />
SHITALPATI & THE BAGGI DHOKA<br />
The Shitalpati built by Khadga Shamsher<br />
was of octagonal shape and was a<br />
popular meeting place for the locals.<br />
Adjacent to the Shitalpati was the Baggi<br />
Dhoka, reflecting the style of the Mughals<br />
from India and was said to be the biggest<br />
gate in Nepal.<br />
74 MAR-APR 2006 SPACES