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TRANSITIONAL HICCUPS<br />

A QUESTION OF<br />

PRIORITIES<br />

Text: Uday Sunder Shrestha. Images: Courtesy: Shyam S.L. Kakshapati<br />

Tansen, often referred to as Palpa, <strong>is</strong> one<br />

of the few towns outside Kathmandu that<br />

bears a rich legacy of traditional art and<br />

architecture. Situated on the southern slope<br />

of a hill at an elevation of about 1350<br />

metres, Tansen overlooks the Madi Valley<br />

and the terai, and on clear days, offers a<br />

magnificent view of the Himalayas from<br />

Dhaulagiri in the west to Gaur<strong>is</strong>hankar in<br />

the northeast. Although th<strong>is</strong> quiet and<br />

pollution free town <strong>is</strong> 300 kilometres west<br />

from Kathmandu, its character and<br />

architecture seem strongly influenced by<br />

Newari migrants from the Kathmandu<br />

Valley with Newari style houses, cobbled<br />

streets, Rana (neo-classical) style buildings,<br />

pagoda temples, shrines and stupas. As<br />

h<strong>is</strong>tory has it, when Muslims invaded India<br />

during the 15th century, many kings and<br />

clans fled to the northern Himalayan<br />

region, some of whom conquered the local<br />

kings and establ<strong>is</strong>hed their own states. The<br />

former Sen Dynasty of Palpa, founded by<br />

Rudra Sen, has its roots in those days, and<br />

under the reign of h<strong>is</strong> son Mukunda Sen<br />

(1518-1553), the kingdom of Palpa, with<br />

Tansen as its capital, spread as far as<br />

modern India to the south and<br />

Kathmandu to the east. Mukunda Sen even<br />

invaded Kathmandu but was unsuccessful.<br />

In the late eighteenth century, Palpa<br />

TANSEN DURBAR<br />

Built in 1927 AD by General Pratap<br />

Shamsher J B Rana, the durbar with its<br />

neo-classical touches, was an imposing<br />

palace in the heart of the town. Once the<br />

seat of the Rana governors, the Durbar<br />

was the d<strong>is</strong>trict secretariat of Palpa d<strong>is</strong>trict<br />

before it was burnt down recently on<br />

January 31, 2006. It was a four-storied<br />

building with sixty-three rooms, two<br />

meeting halls and two towers at the two<br />

front corners.<br />

SHITALPATI & THE BAGGI DHOKA<br />

The Shitalpati built by Khadga Shamsher<br />

was of octagonal shape and was a<br />

popular meeting place for the locals.<br />

Adjacent to the Shitalpati was the Baggi<br />

Dhoka, reflecting the style of the Mughals<br />

from India and was said to be the biggest<br />

gate in Nepal.<br />

74 MAR-APR 2006 SPACES

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