1. Jan-Feb 2011

ARCHITECTURE
Villagers dancing during the Tiji festival
© Kai Weise
PEOPLE
Upper Mustang is closely linked with Tibet, both
culturally and historically. The Kingdom of Lo
was under the domination of West Tibet, Ladakh
and Jumla in turn. It was only in 1795 when the
Gurkhas took control of Jumla, that Lo became a
part of Nepal. The inhabitants of Upper Mustang,
the Lobas and the Baragaonlis are of Tibetan origin.
They practice Tibetan Buddhism and the ancient
Bon religion. The economy of the region was based
on the trade route between Tibet and India, which
wound up the Kali Gandaki valley. Trade died down
to a trickle when the border to Tibet was closed
in 1950. Agriculture is restricted to the summer
months and only to the places where artificial
irrigation is possible. Most people move down
to the cities in the south to find jobs during the
winter months. Since 1992, a restricted number of
tourists have been allowed to visit Upper Mustang.
Wooden ladder made of steps cut
into a log
© Kai Weise
SHELTER
Upper Mustang has a rich culture of courtyard
dwellings. Adapted to the harsh climate, the
courtyard houses give protection and security.
Numerous variations of this building typology can
be seen throughout Mustang. The ground floor is
generally used for storage and stables. One enters
the courtyard through the main gate, where the
ponies are tethered and unloaded. The kitchen, the
living room, the prayer room, the bedrooms and
the toilet are on the first floor. The flat roof is used
for household functions including the storage of
fuel wood. The windows of the rooms open out onto
the courtyard. There are only few openings on the
external walls. Steps are carved into a single log,
which is generally used as a ladder.
View of Tsarang looking west over the settlement from the Monastery
January-February 2011
51
www.spacesnepal.com