1. Jan-Feb 2011

ARCHITECTURE
In the ancient kingdom of Lo, gigantic earthen
palaces (phodrang) and monasteries (lakhang)
were constructed. The exquisite walled city of Lo
Manthang was built in the 15th century. These are
all the superlatives of Upper Mustang. However,
the essence of dwelling is expressed through the
simple but effective courtyard houses.
PLACE
Upper Mustang district lies on the southern edge
of the Tibetan Plateau. From here the Kali Gandaki
River flows south, cutting through the Himalayan
range. The river flows through the world’s deepest
gorge, flanked on either side by mountain massifs
rising over 8000 meters. The gorge functions as a
wind tunnel and the barren cliffs are eroded by the
strong winds. This region north of the Himalayas,
lies in the rain shadow of the summer Monsoons
and the average annual rainfall is only around 150
mm. The settlements of Upper Mustang lie at an
altitude between 3500 and 4000 meters. The solar
radiation in summer is intense and temperatures
can rise above 20 C. In winter, temperatures can
drop below -20 C with relative humidity dropping
below 50%. In January it often snows. Settlements
depend on water, which is scarce and when
sources dry up, settlements are moved to a more
advantageous location. The eroded remains of
the earthen walls of old settlements can be seen
throughout Upper Mustang, blending in with the
wind-beaten cliffs.
© Kai Weise
© Kai Weise
The sketch plan prepared by pacing around the settlement during
the visits in 1991, 1993 and 1997
Upper Mustang
Lo-Manthang
View of Lo Manthang from the flanks of the Ketzu Dzong hillock looking south
© Google
© Kai Weise
CHINA
LO MANTHANG
JOMSOM
MUSTANG DISTRICT
POKHARA
NEPAL
KATHMANDU
INDIA
www.spacesnepal.com 50
January-February 2011
The southern wall of Lo Manthang in December 1991 with the winter gate
- at that time, the only other opening in the wall other than the main gate
in the north