Underground Hideaways

UNDERGROUND
HIDEAWAYS
Deep in the mountains of the Omani interior there are
caves and tunnels hiding treasures of the Sultanate
that have been undiscovered for thousands of years.
48
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

UNDERGROUND HIDEAWAYS
OMAN
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 49

UNDERGROUND HIDEAWAYS
OMAN
Caving is becoming increasingly popular in Oman, both for locals
and visitors alike. Muscat is the bustling heart of the country, and
Salalah is the natural gem, but you can experience cities in Dubai or
Abu Dhabi; people are coming to Oman for something completely
different, something a little more unusual.
AL HOOTA CAVE
Deep in the mountains surrounding Al Hamra, and at the foot of
Jabal Shams, stands the Al Hoota Cave, the first and only show
cave on the Arabian Peninsula. The 4.5-kilometre-long cave, of
which 500 metres is open to the public, is home to some of the
rarest wildlife in the world.
Over 2 million years, the natural acid in the little rain that falls in
Oman dug away 10mm of rock every 100 years. Tiny holes in the
limestone rock gradually allow drops of water into the cave, creating
all manner of rock formations, ice structures, and pools of fresh
oxygenated water.
To get to the cave visitors have to take a short monorail ride
through the vast mountain range in this part of the country, with
towering sand-covered cliffs and grey caverns for as far as the eye
can see. The monorail journey offers visitors to Al Hoota a glimpse
of what is to come in the cave.
When you start the descent down the steep stone steps the
natural daylight quickly starts to fade, being replaced by a low-level
white glow from the motion sensitive lights on the ground, which
light up when people walk past and turn off when they walk away;
this is to ensure that light pollution doesn’t disturb the wildlife and
algae in the caves.
As you head deeper into the cave, as the temperature drops
further and the air gets harder to breathe, naturally-occurring
stalagmites and stalactites of all shapes and sizes rise from the floor
and drop from the cave roof, casting eerie shadows all around. On
the one side, emerging from the darkness between lights, a natural
rock formation in the shape of a Chinese cat with its hand in a
waving position seemingly appears from nowhere.
Bats screech and flap overhead in the darkness, and crickets,
spiders, scorpions, and beetles scuttle up the walls as you pass by.
Deeper into Al Hoota is perhaps the most famous natural rock formation
in this part of the country, a lion’s head. Look out for the flowing mane,
triangular nose, and cat-shaped head staring at you from the distance
as you head towards the dripping sounds in the distance.
Down a series of metal staircases stands the central pool of the
cave, home to a rare species of fish that cannot be found anywhere
else in the world, and which were only discovered by accident by a
goat herder less than 100 years ago. The small ghost-white fish, all
of which are blind, dart across the pond, reacting to the sounds of
dripping water and footsteps shaking the ground. The official name
of these fish is Garra Barreimiae, but the locals refer to them as Bu
Naseh and his friends. Some people like to dip their feet into the
chilly pond water, but others prefer to just stand and admire the
beautiful surroundings.
MUQAL CAVE
The Al Hoota Cave has been set-up for tourists, but for something a
little more natural and authentic, visitors should head to Muqal Cave
in Wadi Bani Khalid, next to the famous Muqal water pools. There
are no metal steps or monorails here, so wearing hiking boots is
highly recommended for the unsteady ground.
When you first enter the huge cavernous opening in the rocks
you will be immediately hit by the thundering roar of water crashing
through the channels deeper in the cave, and the water spray
hitting your face. There are no lights in Muqal Cave, so bring a torch
so that you can see the critters crawling around, and the unusual
cracks and crevices in the cave walls. Look out for the narrow
sections, you may need to duck down!
Follow the sound of the flowing streams inside the cave and
venture deeper into the darkness. Turn off your torch and stand
still on the spot. Feel the vibrations under your feet as the water
crashes through the rocks, and the spray hitting your skin. Listen to
the screeches and squeaks of the creatures around you, and take
some time for yourself. Forget about the outside world for a few
seconds and enjoy the tranquillity.
50
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

Opposite page, left to right: Frankincense farm in Salalah Oman;
Signage; Al Hoota Cave stalagmites and stalactites; Wahiba sands
Oman; Al Hoota Cave’s lion head natural rock formation.
Wadi Bani Khalid
Deep in the Hajar Mountains, in the northeast of
Oman bordering Ras Al Khaimah, is Wadi Bani Khalid.
The tranquil turquoise streams and lakes in this
part of the country are well worth the effort needed
to get here, but the hidden cave systems are even
more spectacular. The vast pure water lakes of Ain
Hamouda, Ain al Sarooj, and Ain Dawwa have allowed
lush foliage to grow across Wadi Bani Khalid, but they
have also permeated through thick rocks, leaving
behind millennia-old tunnels.
The caves here were once used by local bandits who
needed somewhere to hide their loot, and before that
tribal rulers and kings were thought to hide out in the
tunnel systems awaiting attacks from rivals. Between
the caves are hidden oases of tepid water, offering a
refreshing release from the hot and dusty air outside.
The landscape in the Hajars in simply out of this
world; grey limstrone crags, cliffs topped with grass
and bushes, and neat rows of trees following the paths
of streams as they trickle down the mountainsides.
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 51

UNDERGROUND HIDEAWAYS
OMAN
Words by Joe Worthington. Images by Food & Travel Arabia & Oman Tourism
MAJLIS AL JINN
The largest caves in Oman are well worth saving to the end,
and they don’t get much bigger than at Majlis Al Jinn. Arabian
legend has it that mythical creatures called the Jinn, or genies
in English, met in these caves in ancient times, and the central
chamber called “the Cathedral” because of its 120-metre depth
and domed roof is where they are supposed to have convened.
Entry to the cave is not for the faint hearted, you have to
descend through one of the two entrances. The first entrance,
called Asterisk (Khoshilat Beya Al Hiyool), is 136.9 metres
deep. The second, First Drop (Khoshilat Maqandeli) is 118
metres deep. Whereas most caves around the world are small,
cramped chamber, the ones at Majlis Al Jinn are bigger than
most people’s houses – they really are huge!
When narrow beams of light shine through holes in the top
of the caves, and the glistening water droplets shine on the
speleothems on the cave floors, there is nowhere better on
earth to spend the day. The Cathedral cave and beams of light
from above are like a sign from God that this is a haven of
peace and tranquillity in the Omani wilderness.
Caving in the Sultanate’s secret caves is a much-needed
retreat for visitors to the edge of the Arabian Peninsula. The
only sounds in the caves of Oman are flowing streams and
scuttling creatures. The temperatures are much lower and
more bearable than outside. And the sights of natural stone
creatures and bright beams of sunlight shining onto the cave
floor are unlike anything else in the Gulf. The caves of Oman are
relatively undiscovered by tourists, and that’s why they really are
the Sultan’s underground hideaways.
52
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA