Woolworths_Taste_July_2017

July 2017 

R36.90 incl. VAT 

Other countries 

R32.37 excl. VAT 

taste.co.za 

@WWTaste 

Lemon-curd 

lava pudding 

(page 76)

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JULY 2017 

CONTENTS 

● FEATURES ● 

PASS THE PERI-PERI 

An insider reveals where 

FLIGHTS OF FLAVOUR 

Hop on a plane to discover 

GO FOR GOLD 

to find the best prego 

why Iberian ham and 

Turmeric has come a long 

rolls, rissoles and pastéis 

authentic Parmigiano- 

way since your mom’s 

de nata in the tight-knit 

Reggiano are sought after 

Sunday-lunch yellow 

Portuguese community 

by top chefs, and why 

rice. Add it to everything 

of Joburg’s spicy south. 80 

doughnuts in New York 

from one-pot chicken 

and ramen in Brisbane 

to a golden latte. 20 

SA'S TOP 10 GAME- 

are so worth the visas. 103 

CHANGERS 

COVER PHOTOGRAPH TOBY MURPHY PRODUCTION ABIGAIL DONNELLY 

FOOD ASSISTANT JACQUELINE BURGESS 

ESPRESS-O YOURSELF 

Get the most from your 

favourite roast … in fillet 

with café au lait sauce and 

a coffee risotto you’ll want 

to eat for breakfast. 62 

MAIN SQUEEZE 

When life gives you 

lemons … and oranges, 

limes and clementines, 

make your best-ever roast 

chicken, shortrib, tacos and 

lava pudding. And that’s 

just for starters. 72 

From the winelands 

restaurant that put SA food 

on the map, to a groundbreaking 

Joburg bistro, 

these are some of SA’s 

most iconic restaurants, 

past and present. 86 

MASTERS OF 

STREETFOOD 

Now you can make global 

streetfood at home thanks 

to the easy recipes in 

MasterChef: Street Food 

of the World. 94 

● FIRST TASTE ● 

29 Trend: coffee jelly 

32 Pantry: Asian staples 

34 3 ways with: 

sweet potato 

36 5 minutes with: 

Jan-Hendrik van 

der Westhuizen 

38 Anatomy of a dish: 

bibimbap at Soju, Sea Point 

40 What I know now: 

Ben Shewry 

46 Scene stealer: the 

Robertson wine valley

● RAISE THE BAR ● 

51 So many reasons to love 

sake this winter 

52 Two famous French wine 

styles that are being made 

just right on SA soil 

54 What to drink with … citrus 

56 Meet the sommelier and 

former banker who make their 

own small-batch wines 

58 Try a ClemenGold sake 

toddy. You won’t regret it 

● TASTE KITCHEN ● 

113 Here’s how to get sushi 

rice right, every time 

116 Starter cook: 

Mouthwatering new reasons 

to stock up on winter veg 

(the smoky, garlicky baked 

cannellini beans on toast 

will change your life) 

● REGULARS ● 

10 Editor’s letter 

12 Feedback: our winning 

letter receives 12 bottles of 

Van Loveren wines worth 

R712, plus a R500 Woolworths 

gift card 

14 Visit taste.co.za for recipes, 

community conversation, 

tips and competitions 

16 Subscribe to TASTE for 

R28 per issue and you could 

win a hamper of wine from 

Weltevrede worth R1 758 

18 Win a stay at Tintswalo 

Atlantic worth R23 060 

60 Win a Smeg espresso 

coffee machine worth R6 500 

122 Foodstuff: your 

shopping guide 

126 Recipe index 

128 Back page: sesame 

banana spring rolls 

● COLUMNS ● 

42 TASTES THAT BIND 

Pumpkin fritters connect Seb 

with his heritage and are also 

one of his favourite things to 

make, says Sam Woulidge. 

44 #TASTESLIKEMORE 

Former chef Ilana Sharlin- 

Stone has happy memories 

of long hours spent in the 

kitchens of Los Angeles 

page 72 

page 86 

page 76 

page 18, 60 

page 116 

page 62 

page 20 

page 80, 94, 103

EDITOR'S LETTER 

MY TRIP DOWN MEMORY LANE 

10 

For me, food and memory are always 

entwined, and sometimes I’ll find 

myself making a dish at home with a 

simple ingredient that sparks a happy 

recollection, which is what happened last 

night while cooking dinner. After 

picking up a bag of the season’s first 

parsnips, I decided to make a pot of 

creamy parsnip mash using lashings 

of butter and cream and a sprinkling of 

freshly ground nutmeg. It’s so simple and 

always top of my winter comfort-food list 

south in my old ’hood in Jozi for the 

“Pass the peri-peri” food and Portuguese 

community story on page 80. Back in 

the day at Forest High in Forest Hill, 

I used to choose my friends based on 

the quality of the chorizo they ate for 

lunch after school – we’d take turns 

going to each other’s houses and 

I absolutely loved eating fried chorizo 

with scrambled egg on the side. I could 

never have guessed that, all these years 

later, the same shop where their parents 

stocked up – Rio Douro Fisheries – 

would still be going strong! 

Walking into Bembom on this trip 

was also a revelation. Just one look at 

their legendary pastéis de nata – egg 

custard nestled in crispy pastry – and 

I knew I had to order a box to cradle 

on my lap on the flight back to Cape 

Town. I also couldn’t resist stuffing 

a bag of real-deal Portuguese rolls into 

my hand luggage, so that I could relive 

my down-south memories with my 

family. That night I made a big pot of 

cavolo nero and told my husband and 

sons that, while kale might be trendy 

now, it was simple playground fare 

when I grew up – I used to swap my 

cheese-and-tomato sarmies for the 

other incredible game-changers in the 

local restaurant biz (page 86). 

While I’m feeling nostalgic about 

the past this month, I’m also feeling 

sentimental about the future following 

the birth of Kate’s baby girl, Holly. Kate 

will be at home spending time with her 

daughter for the next few months and, 

on behalf of the TASTE team, I’d like 

to congratulate her and the famous Salad 

Dodger. Wishing you so much happiness 

(and boa comida, always!) 

Follow me 

on Instagram 

@donnellyabi 

“IF I WASN’T EATING CHORIZO AT 

SOMEONE’S HOUSE, I WAS PLAYING PAC-MAN 

AT THE CORNER CAFÉ WHILE WAITING FOR 

A PERI-PERI PREGO ROLL” 

because it brings back fond childhood 

memories of my gran, who would add 

parsnips to all sorts of mouthwatering 

stews she conjured up in her pressure 

cooker. I absolutely loved them for their 

sweet robustness, but the same definitely 

didn’t apply to my brother, who used to 

hunt them down between the potatoes 

and turnips and place them in a neat 

circle around his plate. 

As you can tell, I get really sentimental 

about the past, and working on this 

issue of TASTE gave me plenty of time 

to do just that when I spent time down 

garlicky-oniony kale my friends brought 

in their lunchboxes (once a foodie, 

always a foodie!). And no trip down my 

memory lane would be complete without 

revisiting one of my first (and very 

special) fine-dining experiences, which 

took place at The Three Ships upstairs 

in the Carlton Centre when I was 16. It 

was the first time I ate duck l’orange and, 

oh, the novelty of seeing a Caesar salad 

tossed right in front of me! It will always 

be an iconic restaurant to those who were 

lucky enough to dine there, which is why 

we’ve paid tribute to it along with some 

ABI’S PERI-PERI SAUCE 

When I wasn’t eating chorizo at 

someone’s house, I was playing Pac- 

Man at the corner café while waiting 

for a peri-peri prego roll. This is my best 

version of that sauce: slightly sweet, sour 

and a touch salty. Eat it with chicken 

livers or with minute steaks packed into 

the softest Portuguese rolls you can find. 

Blend 1 cup oil, 6 chopped garlic 

cloves, the juice of 2 lemons, 12 

chopped red chillies (bird’s-eye are 

best), 2 T smoked paprika,1 t salt, 

¼ cup red wine vinegar, 1 roast onion 

and 2 roast red peppers until smooth. 

PORTRAIT JAN RAS FOOD PHOTOGRAPH GALLO IMAGES/GETTYIMAGES.COM

12 

“… a big cappuccino, 

any time of day, but 

I’m especially partial 

to one at 9 am.” 

– Yvette Samaai 

“… a cortado: a 

double espresso with 

a little bit of milk.” 

– Jacqueline Burgess 

“… the one my 

husband brings me in 

bed first thing every 

morning, made using 

our espresso machine. 

It’s a double-shot flat 

white in a small cup.” 

– Lynda Ingham- 

Brown 

THE TEAM SAYS: 

My favourite type of coffee is… 

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Kate Wilson 

kate.wilson@newmediapub.co.za 

FOOD EDITOR Abigail Donnelly 

abigail.donnelly@newmediapub.co.za 

HEAD OF CREATIVE: CONSUMER DIVISION Mark Serra 

GROUP MANAGING EDITOR Liesl Nicholson 

liesl.nicholson@newmediapub.co.za 

ASSISTANT EDITOR Lee-Anne Spurdens 

FEATURES EDITOR Michelle Coburn 

michelle.coburn@newmediapub.co.za 

SENIOR COPY EDITOR Lynda Ingham-Brown 

FEATURES WRITER Annette Klinger 

ART DIRECTOR Lené Roux 

ART DIRECTOR (CONSUMER DIVISION) Alistair Fester 

ONLINE EDITOR Amy Ebedes 

ONLINE CONTENT PRODUCER Melissa Scheepers 

FOOD ASSISTANT Jacqueline Burgess 

CONTRIBUTING FOOD EDITOR Phillippa Cheifitz 

CONTRIBUTING FOOD EDITOR Hannah Lewry 

WINE CONSULTANT Allan Mullins 

CONSULTING DIETICIAN Mariza van Zyl 

WOOLWORTHS EDITORIAL BOARD 

Head of Brand Communications: Glenda Philp 

Brand Manager Foods: Hieba Solomon 

ADVERTISING & MARKETING 

Head of Advertising and Sales: Jeanine Boshoff 

+27 21 417 1104 jeanine.boshoff@newmediapub.co.za 

Key Account Manager: Yvette Samaai 

+27 21 417 1156 yvette.samaai@newmediapub.co.za 

Senior Sales Executive: Tharien Nel 

+27 21 417 5168 tharien.nel@newmediapub.co.za 

Advertising Co-ordinator: Julian Petersen +27 021 417 1220 

Sales Designer: Marcus Viljoen 

“… a double espresso 

with hot milk on the 

side, enjoyed at the 

Woolies café at the 

Cape Town airport 

before a flight.” 

– Abigail Donnelly 

“… if I’m out, 

a double-shot flat 

white at Rosetta 

Roastery, made with 

their single-origin 

Ethiopian beans. 

At home, siphon 

coffee.” – Jan Ras, 

photographer 

“… a skinny flat 

white in a small 

takeaway cup on 

a really cold day.” 

– Lené Roux 

SUBSCRIPTIONS & DISTRIBUTION 

Subscriptions hotline: 087 405 2005 

Contact centre team leader: +27 21 530 3179 

PUBLISHING TEAM 

Group Account Director: Kelly Cloete 

Account Manager: Cecilia du Plessis 

Production Manager: Shirley Quinlan 

ABC Manager: Roxanne Holman 021 417 1218 

EXECUTIVE TEAM 

Managing Director: Aileen Lamb 

Commercial Director: Maria Tiganis 

Content Director: Andrew Nunneley 

Chief Financial Officer: Mark Oaten 

Chief Executive Officer: Bridget McCarney 

Executive Director: John Psillos 

Non-Executive Director: Irna van Zyl 

Repro by: New Media Publishing 

Printed by: Paarl Media Paarl 

Published on behalf of Woolworths 

by New Media Publishing Pty Ltd, 

New Media House, 

19 Bree Street, Cape Town, 8001. 

PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town, 8051. 

Telephone: +27 (021) 417-1111 

info@newmediapub.co.za 

newmediapub.co.za 

30 150 

Jan-March 2017 

FEEDBACK Email taste@newmediapub.co.za, tweet @WWTaste, or visit facebook.com/wwTASTE. 

WINNING LETTER 

My friend grows guavas and from time to time 

gives me a generous bag of them. Not knowing 

how to deal with a whole lot at once, I looked 

on your website and found food editor Abigail 

Donnelly’s recipe for chilli-and-spice stewed 

guavas and meringue. I would never have 

thought chilli, rosemary and meringue even 

remotely synonymous with guava, but I trusted 

TASTE’s opinion and gave it a go. Instead of the 

soft meringues the recipe called for, I dried mine 

out, and also drizzled over a bit of balsamic 

vanilla glaze and added a sprig of fresh rosemary 

before serving. They tasted amazing and my 

guests were blown away. Who would’ve thought 

you could make such a brag-worthy dessert 

using humble guavas? – Gail Gunston 

The writer of this month’s winning letter wins 

six bottles each of Van Loveren’s African 

Java Pinotage and Blackberry Cabernet 

Sauvignon/Shiraz blend to the value 

of R712, plus a R500 Woolworths gift 

voucher. Enjoy your next dinner party, Gail! 

TW-EAT, TW-EAT 

@Nigella_Lawson: “Good Morning! 

#RecipeOfTheDay is Tequila and Lime Chicken.” 

We see your tequila-lime chicken, Nigella Lawson, and 

we raise you our ClemenGold-glazed chicken on page 76.

taste.co.za 

What's happening online? 

@WWTaste 

WATCH OUR RECIPES COME TO LIFE! 

Visit facebook.com/wwTASTE/videos to indulge your senses. Entice your 

friends by hitting that share button. 

14 

WIN ONE OF TWO 

HAMPERS FROM 

HARTENBERG WINES 

Ah, winter. It’s the perfect time of year 

to curl up next to a fire while sipping 

a glass of great wine. Ensure that your 

supplies are topped up with one 

of two hampers from Hartenberg 

Wines worth R500 each. Visit taste. 

co.za/win to enter now. 

DO YOU HAVE A PRESSING QUESTION? 

ARE YOU A WHIZ IN THE KITCHEN? VISIT TASTE.CO.ZA/ 

COMMUNITY-QUESTIONS TO ASK Ð AND 

ANSWER Ð ANYTHING! 

HOW LONG DO YOU 

SPEND PREPPING AND 

COOKING AN AVERAGE 

WEEKNIGHT DINNER? 

Less than 30 minutes 19% 

30 minutes to 1 hour 63% 

Over an hour 15% 

I generally default to takeaways 

or eating out 3% 

FOOD PHOTOGRAPH TOBY MURPHY PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY

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SUBSCRIBER’S OFFER 

SUBSCRIBE & WIN 

Three TASTE readers will make a significant addition to their wine collections 

with three cases (that’s 18 bottles!) of wine from Weltevrede Wine Estate 

worth R1 758 when subscribing to TASTE for just R28 an issue 

16 

T 

here’s 

no doubt that 

terroir and climate 

play large roles in making 

a good wine. But the 

people at Weltevrede 

Wine Estate in Bonnievale 

believe that the human 

element is just as 

important. After the 

estate recently reached 

its centenary, the fourth 

generation of the Jonker 

family, winemaker Philip 

Jonker, bottled the 

Weltevrede 1912 collection 

to mark this momentous 

occasion. And instead of 

putting his signature on 

the label, he decided to 

record the names of every 

person living and working 

in the vineyards and winery 

at Weltevrede to celebrate 

their legacy. The result is 

a full-bodied Chardonnay 

that’s light golden in colour 

and displays an intense 

mixture of dried mango, 

ripe pear and ginger on 

the nose, with ripe lemons 

and marmalade on the 

palate. The Weltevrede 

1912 Cabernet Sauvignon 

bears spice on the nose, 

with complex flavours of 

blueberries, blackberries, 

pomegranate, white 

pepper and cedar on the 

palate. Says Philip, “The 

Weltevrede 1912 wines 

are a culmination of more 

than 100 years of family 

heritage.” weltevrede.com 

Three easy 

ways to 

subscribe 

1. Call 087 405 2005 

2. SMS "Subs Taste" to 40573 (R1 per SMS) 

3. EMAIL subs@magsathome.co.za 

For digital subscriptions, visit mysubs.co.za 

* Offer limited to SA. Please 

allow time for processing and 

delivery. Please call 021 045 1809 

for international subscription 

rates. Offer ends 23 July 2017.

COMPETITION 

WIN 

Talk about a room with a view. One lucky TASTE reader and a partner 

will win a two-night stay at Tintswalo Atlantic in Cape Town’s Table Mountain 

National Park to the value of R23 060 

18 

Right on the edge of 

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Comprising just 11 oceanfacing 

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There’s no rush. 

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THE PRIZE A two-night 

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spa treatments, curio store 

purchases and transport 

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for additional terms and 

conditions. TO ENTER, 

visit taste.co.za or turn to 

page 126 for SMS entry 

instructions. QUESTION: 

In which national park is 

Tintswalo Atlantic situated? 

KEYWORD: Tintswalo.

INGREDIENT: TURMERIC 

20 

Gofor 

Gold 

THE IMPOSSIBLE CUSTARD TART 

R10 PER SERVING

Ground or fresh, aromatic turmeric 

(a.k.a. borrie in SA) is one of the trendiest spices 

of the year. Make like ABIGAIL DONNELLY and add it to 

everything from a crustless cauliflower tart inspired 

by Yotam Ottolenghi, to a golden latte 

(move over, hot chocolate!) 

PHOTOGRAPHS ROBBERT KOENE 

RECIPES AND PRODUCTION ABIGAIL DONNELLY 

FOOD ASSISTANT JACQUELINE BURGESS


102 

THE IMPOSSIBLE 

CUSTARD TART 

“This dessert is impossibly delicious to eat and 

(bonus!) so easy it’s impossible to fail at making 

it. Simply blend all the ingredients, bake, serve 

and surrender.” 

Serves 6 

EASY 

GREAT VALUE 

Preparation: 5 minutes 

Baking: 45 minutes 

milk 1½ cups 

desiccated coconut 60 g 

butter 50 g, melted 

vanilla pod ½, seeds scraped 

free-range egg 1 

flour 40 g 

caster or coconut sugar 110 g 

lime 1, zested and juiced 

turmeric 1 t 

ground cardamom 1 t 

fresh coconut 1 t, finely grated, to garnish 

1 Preheat the oven to 160°C and grease an 

18 cm tart tin. 2 Place all the ingredients into 

a blender and blend until smooth. Pour the 

mixture into the greased tin and bake 

for 45 minutes, or until cooked through. 

3 Sprinkle over the coconut and serve. 

WINE: Nederburg Special Late 

Harvest 2016 

ONE-POT CHICKEN 

BAKED ON DHAL 

“The ginger, turmeric and chilli in this easy, 

comforting supper will warm you up from 

the inside.” 

Serves 4 

EASY 

GREAT VALUE 


Cooking: 1½ hours 

olive oil 1 T 

butter 2 T 

free-range whole chicken 1.3 kg, 

spatchcocked 

red or yellow split lentils 300 g, cooked 

according to package instructions 

TURMERIC IS A GOOD 

MATCH WITH… 

almond, black pepper, cardamom, 

cinnamon, chilli powder, coconut, 

coriander, cumin, garlic, ginger. 

Woolworths organic chicken stock 2 cups 

red chillies 2, roughly chopped 

green chillies 2, roughly chopped 

garlic 3 cloves, finely grated 

fresh ginger 1 T, finely grated 

fresh turmeric 1 T, finely grated 

curry leaves 12 

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, 

to taste 

1 Preheat the oven to 200°C. Heat a large 

wok or nonstick pan over a high heat. 

Add the olive oil and butter and sear the 

chicken on both sides until golden. Remove 

from the wok. 2 Place the cooked lentils 

and remaining ingredients into a large 

ovenproof dish. Place the chicken on top 

of the lentils and roast for 1½ hours, or until 

cooked through. Brush the chicken with 

melted butter every 20 minutes to keep 

the skin golden. Season to taste. 

FAT-CONSCIOUS, WHEAT- AND 

GLUTEN-FREE 

WINE: Woolworths DMZ Chenin 

Blanc 2016 

CAULIFLOWER-AND- 

BRINJAL TART 

“This moreish crustless tart, inspired by 

Yotam Ottolenghi’s in Plenty More, makes 

a substantial lunch served with a simple salad 

of leaves dressed with pomegranate molasses.” 

Serves 6 

EASY 

GREAT VALUE 


Cooking: 30 minutes 

olive oil 3 T 

brinjals 2, diced 

cauliflower 1, leaves removed and broken 

into florets 

free-range eggs 8, lightly whisked 

flour 60 g, sifted 

baking powder 1 t 

ground turmeric 1 t (or 1 T fresh) 

ground coriander ½ t 

ground cumin ½ t 

goat’s cheese or feta 100 g, crumbled 

coriander 2 T, roughly chopped, to garnish 

pine nuts 30 g, lightly toasted, to garnish 

1 Preheat the oven to 180°C and generously 

grease a 20 cm tart tin. 2 Heat a little oil 

in a nonstick pan over a high heat. Fry the 

brinjals, in batches, until golden. Remove 

and drain on kitchen paper. 3 Add more 

oil to the pan and fry the cauliflower

“We’ll always love yellow rice and bobotie (thanks mom!), 

but I love the inventive new ways that turmeric is being used to show off 

its beautiful pungency and earthy flavour” – Abigail Donnelly 

ONE-POT CHICKEN BAKED ON DHAL 

R29 PER SERVING


florets until golden. Remove from the pan 

and roast for 10 minutes. 4 Combine the 

remaining ingredients in a large bowl. 

Fold through the fried brinjal and 

cauliflower. Pour the mixture into the 

greased tart tin and top with the goat’s 

cheese or feta. 5 Bake for 15 minutes, 

or until golden and cooked through. 

Garnish with the coriander and pine nuts. 

CARB-CONSCIOUS, HEALTH-CONSCIOUS, 

MEAT-FREE 

WINE: Woolworths Porcupine Ridge 

Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon 2016 

STICKY ROAST CARROTS 

IN BARLEY BROTH 

“A hearty, warming home-made broth full 

of flavour thanks to gratings of fresh turmeric 

and ginger, and a squeeze of lemon. You won’t 

stop at just one bowl.” 

Serves 4 

EASY 

GREAT VALUE 



large carrots 4, halved lengthways 

butter 2 T 

brown sugar 2 T 

lemon juice a squeeze 

beef stock 2 cups 

fresh turmeric 1 t finely grated 

fresh ginger 1 t finely grated 

celery 2 sticks, washed and sliced 

red onion 1, cut into 8 wedges 

bay leaves 4 

Woolworths ready-to-eat barley 250 g 


to taste 

1 Preheat the oven to 180°C. Place the 

carrots on a baking tray, dot with butter and 

sprinkle over the sugar. Roast for 35 minutes, 

or until tender and caramelised. 2 Place 

the remaining ingredients into a saucepan 

and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and 

simmer until the celery and onion are soft. 

Stir through the barley and simmer for 

2 minutes. 3 Serve the barley broth with 

the glazed carrots. Season to taste. 

FAT-CONSCIOUS, MEAT-FREE 

WINE: Ashbourne Sauvignon Blanc- 

Chardonnay 2016 

120 


BRINJAL TART 

R25 PER SERVING 

SPICE UP YOUR LIFE 

Turmeric is an ingredient in curry powder 

blends, as well as chutneys, pickles and 

mustards. Bill Granger uses it in everything 

from chicken dishes to his popular Indian 

spiced potatoes with fried eggs. And 

Nigella’s Happiness Soup is pure bliss in 

a bowl thanks to the yellow spice. Want 

to up your intake? Try these fast ideas. 

(Turmeric is extremely pungent, so go 

slow and add according to taste.) 

● Add a pinch of ground turmeric 

to scrambled eggs. 

● Make golden spiced roast potatoes 

by tossing parboiled potatoes in 

ground turmeric before roasting. 

● Stir ground turmeric to taste 

into plain yoghurt as a topping 

for baked potatoes. 

● Add a little ground turmeric to 

cauliflower soup to turn it a beautiful 

golden colour. 

● Blend fresh turmeric into 

a smoothie of coconut milk, 

ClemenGold segments, rolled oats, 

fresh ginger, honey and vanilla extract. 

● Make a pot of spicy turmeric tea: 

bring four cups water to the boil, add 

1 t ground turmeric and reduce to 

a simmer for 10 minutes. Strain into 

a cup, add a pinch of black pepper 

and honey and lemon juice to taste. 

● Make a dressing for salads and 

roast veg by combining chopped fresh 

turmeric with fresh coriander, honey, 

apple cider vinegar and olive oil. 

● Dust toasted coconut chips 

in ground turmeric.

STICKY ROAST CARROTS 

IN BARLEY BROTH 


25 

SILWOOD STUDENT ASSISTANT HELLA BOROCHOWITZ

BEST EVER: INGREDIENT: PHILIPPA CHEIFITZ TURMERICRECIPES 

120 

CAN YOU SWAP 

FRESH AND GROUND 

TURMERIC? 

Yes, you can! The general rule of 

thumb for converting dried herbs 

or spices to fresh in a recipe is 1: 3 

(1 t dried spice = 1 T fresh). 

AND IT WAS 

ALL YELLOW … 

So you’ve peeled and chopped a 

piece of fresh turmeric and now your 

chopping board and hands match 

your recipe! Fresh or dried, it’ll stain 

just about anything. Here’s how 

to clean up 

COUNTERTOPS AND 

CHOPPING BOARDS: Generally, 

a paste of equal parts water and 

bicarbonate of soda left on the 

yellow stain for about 15 minutes, 

then washed with warm, soapy 

water, will remove the marks. 

HANDS AND FINGERNAILS: 

Soak your hands in a small, shallow 

bowl of white vinegar and water, 

or rub your hands and nails with 

lemon juice, then wash in hot, 

soapy water. 

THE ROOT CAUSE 

Here’s how to grow, store and 

prepare fresh turmeric 

PLANT a piece of fresh turmeric 

root in a pot of wet, sandy soil to 

propagate your own turmeric plant. 

PREPARE it for cooking by 

washing and scrubbing the root. 

You don’t have to peel it but can 

if you want to. Grate the root using 

a Microplane or cheese grater, 

or smash it with a garlic press 

or in a pestle and mortar. 

STORE fresh turmeric root in the 

fridge in a sealed Ziploc bag. You 

can also freeze it and grate it from 

frozen, as needed, directly into 

your dishes. 

Keep warm this 

winter by drinking 

one golden latte 

after another. 

It’s the hot 

chocolate of 2017!” 

– Abigail 

Donnelly 

GOLDEN LATTE WITH 

BLACK PEPPER AND 

MAPLE SYRUP 

“Turmeric adds slight bitterness to 

the warm coconut milk, which is 

balanced by the spice of the black 

pepper. Sweetness comes from the 

maple syrup, while rose rounds 

it all off with a subtle floral note. 

It’s practically dessert!” 

Serves 4 

EASY 

GREAT VALUE 



coconut milk 1 x 400 ml can 

milk 1 cup 

fresh turmeric 1 t finely grated 

rose-water 1 T (optional) 

nutmeg ½ t freshly grated 

maple syrup 1 T 

black pepper, to taste 

dried rose petals, to garnish (optional) 

Place all the ingredients into a 

saucepan and bring to the boil. 

Pour into mug, crack over some 

black pepper and garnish with dried 

rose petals, if using. Serve warm. 

CARB-CONSCIOUS, WHEAT- AND 

GLUTEN-FREE

GOLDEN LATTE WITH BLACK PEPPER AND MAPLE SYRUP 


27

A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N 

GET YOUR FRIKKADEL ON 

Dinner's always on a roll when there are Woolies frikkadels in the fridge. Made with coarsely 

minced, succulent meat and flavoured with a blend of herbs and spices, the range includes 

lamb, beef, chicken and a beef-and-lamb combination. Simply serve with your favourite side. 

Beef or chicken frikkadels with tomato-and-basil pasta 

Beef frikkadels with sosatie spices, paneer and flatbreads 

Beef, lamb or chicken frikkadels with baby spinach-and-pecorino soup 

Beef-and-lamb frikkadels with Malay spices and sweet potato mash 

PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION FOODLOOSE PRODUCTIONS FOOD ASSISTANT CLAIRE GOODERSON 

woolworths.co.za

PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANT CAMILLA REINHOLD 

EDITED BY ANNETTE KLINGER 

First 

Taste 

WHAT TO EAT, 

KNOW, DO 

AND BUY NOW 

ARE YOU READY FOR THIS JELLY? 

Remember mizu shingen mochi, Japan’s internetbreaking 

raindrop dessert? Well, the land of the rising 

sun’s affections have moved on to a new wobbly 

wonder: kohi zeri, or coffee jelly. Even though the 

dessert has been around for yonks, it became an instant 

Instagram obsession when Starbucks Japan launched 

its coffee jelly frappuccino last year. Cue mass hysteria 

and a host of copycats worldwide. Turn the page 

to check out some of the new mash-ups on social 

media and learn how to whip up some yourself.

COFFEE JELLY 

Throwing a wobbly 

Slightly sweet, lightly whipped cream is the traditional accompaniment to coffee jelly in Japan, 

but, wouldn’t you know it, Instagram is all a-jiggle with personal takes on the trend 

30 

COFFEE JELLY 

In a medium-sized heatproof 

bowl, melt 4 softened gelatine 

leaves in 2 cups hot, strong 

filter coffee, sweetened to 

taste. Stir until completely 

dissolved. Pour the mixture 

into a baking tray about 3 cm 

deep, then chill until set. Cut 

into 2 x 2 cm cubes using 

a hot knife, place in a bowl 

and top with cream. 

Got milk? Latte up like Kannon Coffee in Japan. 

Italian blogger Giorgio Russo of Le Torte di Gio’s 

deconstructed tiramisu tart = genius. 

WHAT GOES 

GREAT WITH 

COFFEE JELLY? 

EQUALLY TRENDY 

MATCHA FROZEN 

YOGHURT, 

ACCORDING TO 

FRO-YO CHAIN 

YOGEN FRÜZ IN 

VIETNAM 

Coffee jelly instead of ice cream on your root beer 

float? Why not says Bröm Café Buri Ram in Thailand. 

You say coffee jelly frappuccino, The Green Coffee 

in the Philippines says coffee jelly freeziccino. 

“Coffee jelly, a refreshing Japanese dessert liked 

by geishas and samurais both,” says Kayo’s Ramen 

Bar in Portland, Oregon, which serves theirs 

espresso-style. 

PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS, THEGREENCOFFEE.PH, KANNONCOFFEE.COM, KAYOSRAMEN.COM, FACEBOOK.COM/PG/BROMCAFE, YOGENFRUZ.COM, 

FACEBOOK.COM/LEMIETORTEDIGIO PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY



UMAMI-BOMBS AWAY! 

When you need a hit of savoury flavour, reach for Kikkoman soy sauce, made the traditional 

way by fermenting water, wheat, soy beans and salt. Moreish and umami rich, its layers of 

flavour reveal themselves with every taste Ñ whether used as a dipping sauce for sushi, tempura 

or veggie fritters, or seasoning for stirfries, noodle bowls or stews. The range also includes 

Kikkoman less salt soy sauce and teriyaki sauce. Just a dash does the trick! 

Serving suggestion 

CABBAGE-AND-SPINACH FRITTERS 

Combine 2½ cups (200 g) each shredded cabbage 

and spinach, 4 chopped spring onions and 

4 cloves grated garlic in a large bowl. Combine 

175 g flour, 2 T rice flour and 1 t sugar and mix 

with 1 cup water, 1 free-range egg and 1 T teriyaki 

sauce to form a batter. Stir the batter through the 

vegetables. Fry large spoonfuls of the batter in hot 

oil until crisp. Serve with a dipping bowl of teriyaki 

sauce, chilli and finely chopped roasted peanuts. 

kikkoman.co.uk

PANTRY ESSENTIALS 

Continental drift 

With an arsenal of Asian store-cupboard ingredients, you can go from parathas 

on Monday and pad Thai on Wednesday to pho on Friday and Korean shortribs 

on Sunday. Who needs takeaways, right? 

FISH SAUCE* 

Detonate this umami bomb at will to give almost 

any Asian dish savoury depth. Its funky base note 

makes kimchi irresistible, it intensifies the meaty 

flavours of sticky Korean shortribs and instantly 

transforms a batch of pan-fried tofu. 

32 

PALM SUGAR 

It adds caramel complexity 

to everything from pad Thai 

(mashed into a curry paste 

with tamarind, lime, fish 

sauce, shrimp paste, garlic 

and chilli) and Gujarati dhal 

(it’s the sweet counterpart 

to the tamarind that gives 

the dish its signature 

sourness) to Vietnamese 

ca kho to (fish caramelised 

in a marinade of palm 

sugar, garlic, chillies and 

fish sauce). 

TAMARIND* 

Giving local Cape Malay denningvleis its 

unmistakable tartness, its flavour plays well with 

fishy ingredients (think Cambodian sweet-and-sour 

soup), peanuts and coconut milk (no satay sauce 

is complete without it) and aromatic spices such 

as cinnamon, cardamom and turmeric. 

DRIED CHILLIES* 

Run out of fresh chillies? The 

flavour of dried ones is slightly 

sweeter and milder than fresh, 

but when rehydrated can be 

transformed into just about 

any Asian chilli paste: Chinese 

la jiao jiang, Korean gochujang, 

Malaysian sambal tumis, Thai 

nam prik pao…

“GOING TO 

SOUTHEAST 

ASIA FOR THE 

FIRST TIME AND 

TASTING THE 

SPECTRUM OF 

FLAVOURS – 

THAT CHANGED 

MY WHOLE 

PALATE, THE 

KIND OF FOODS 

I CRAVE” 

– ANTHONY 

BOURDAIN 

GALANGAL 

Muskier and more peppery 

than its kissing cousin 

ginger, it’s essential to Thai 

curry pastes (Red! Green! 

Massaman!), Singaporean 

laksa and Indonesian 

rendang. Fresh galangal isn’t 

readily available in SA; you 

can find the dried version at 

Asian supermarkets. To use, 

soak in boiled water until 

soft, about 30 minutes. 


SESAME OIL* 

A little of this 

seedy operator 

adds nuttiness and 

body to dressings, 

marinades, stirfries 

and soups. How 

do we love thee 

Chinese sesame 

noodles? Just 

about as much as 

we love Korean 

bulgogi (marinated 

barbequed meat), 

Japanese ramen 

bowls and Burmese 

sesame beef. 

THAI LIME LEAVES* 

Name a southeast Asian dish and we bet you 

it’ll star these perfumed leaves. Indonesian 

beef rendang? Check. Thai tom yum goong 

soup? Yep. Malaysian laksa? Right again. 

Filipino chicken adobo? You’re starting 

to get the picture. 

RICE VINEGAR* 

A key ingredient in 

Japanese sushi rice and 

pickled ginger, Chinese 

potato salad (you’ll 

never want to make 

yours with mayo again) 

and Indonesian nasi 

goreng, it’s much milder 

than Western vinegar, 

with a hint of sweetness. 

*Available at selected Woolies stores.

3 WAYS WITH... 

… sweet potato 

Can you hear that? They’re playing your yam! Stay tuned for everybody’s favourite ’tater – smothered 

in butter and cream, topped with a spicy salsa and fried with a fragrant masala 

2 

1 

Sweet potato gratin 

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Layer 

3 large thinly sliced sweet potatoes 

on an ovenproof plate or baking tray 

with 2 finely chopped garlic cloves, 

2 finely chopped shallots, 50 g butter 

and ½ cup cream, seasoning with salt 

and pepper between each layer. 

2. Sprinkle over 50 g grated Parmesan 

and bake for 25 minutes, or until 

the sweet potato is cooked and 

the cheese is melted. 

3 

Potato aloo sarmies 

1. Boil 3 peeled and halved 

sweet potatoes in salted water 

until tender. Drain and set 

aside. 2. Heat 2 T butter and 

1 T coconut oil in a pan over 

a medium heat and fry 

1 chopped red onion, 2 t 

cumin, 1 t dried chilli flakes, 

6 dried curry leaves, 2 t curry 

powder and 2 T mustard 

seeds. Drizzle over the juice 

of 1 lemon and season to taste. 

3. Cube the sweet potatoes and 

toss with the onion and spices. 

Divide the mixture between 

4 slices wholewheat or rye 

bread, top with another slice 

and toast in a sandwich maker. 

Mexican-style sweet potatoes 

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Rub 4 whole sweet 

potatoes with olive oil and salt, then roast for 

30 minutes. 2. Slice the sweet potatoes in half 

and top with cubed avocado, sour cream, 

sliced red onion, fresh coriander, halved cherry 

tomatoes and fresh, chopped chilli to taste. 

PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS, DONNA LEWIS, SADIQAH ASSUR-ISMAIL AND CHRISTOPH HEIERLI 

PRODUCTION ABIGAIL DONNELLY AND HANNAH LEWRY


THE GOOD AND THE GRATE 

There's hard cheese, and then there's Parmigiano Reggiano, made the same way it was 

nine centuries ago, abiding by rigorous centuries-old techniques, natural fermentation 

and an ageing process lasting a minimum of 12 months. The result is a firm, nutty cheese 

with a granular texture that takes cheeseboards, risottos, pastas and salads to new 

heights. Look out for the PDO and Parmigiano Reggiano dotted marks on the cheese's 

rind for your guarantee of authenticity. 

woolworths.co.za 


MUSHROOM RISOTTO 

Fry 250 g chopped mushrooms in 2 T butter until 

soft. Reserve half the mushrooms and add 2 sliced 

shallots and more butter to the pan and fry until 

softened. Stir in 200 g arborio rice and simmer 

for 3 minutes. Add 1 cup white wine and stir until 

absorbed. Add 4–5 cups hot vegetable stock, 

1 cup at a time, stirring until absorbed and the 

grains are al dente. Stir through a generous handful 

of grated Parmigiano Reggiano and extra butter. 

Top with the reserved mushrooms, 100 g artichoke 

hearts and extra cheese. 

PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION FOODLOOSE 

PRODUCTIONS FOOD ASSISTANT CLAIRE GOODERSON

MY FAVOURITE TABLE 

minutes with 

Jan-Hendrik van der Westhuizen 

It was go, go, go for SA’s own Michelin man when he was recently in Cape Town for the Good Food & Wine 

Show. That’s why TASTE was stoked to tag along to the Olive Branch Deli where he stocked 

up on homegrown goodies for Restaurant JAN 

36 

You’ve just come from visiting your 

folks on their farm in Mpumalanga. 

What did you eat? 

We braaied every evening. Also, my Ouma 

Hessie knows that everytime I visit she has 

to make her green beans, so she made 

that: beans with cream and white pepper. 

I just wanted to eat beef during this trip, 

good South African beef. France’s beef 

doesn’t compare, and it’s really expensive. 

What else … we ate preserved guavas 

with Ideal milk. Just lekker plaaskos. 

Nothing fancy. 

You recently got married. Did you 

do the menu? 

No, Maranda Engelbrecht did. She sent 

it through, I made some tweaks, but I 

just felt that this is the one day I’m gonna 

stand back and drink Champagne. The 

highlight was definitely the suckling 

spit-roasted pigs with pomegranates 

in their mouths. She served it with 

a kapokbos-and-apple sauce, the waiters 

carried them around the tables and 

carved as they went. 

Do you remember, back in 2012, you 

sent in a recipe for naartjie crêpes 

with salted caramel sauce for the 

TASTE reader’s issue? 

I do! At that stage of my life I was working 

on a yacht as a private chef, two years 

before I opened JAN. I cooked for 

a Swedish family. It’s actually thanks 

to them that I opened the restaurant. 

They constantly pushed me, saying 

I really needed to share my food with 

other people. Frederick and Jenny, nice 

people. They were at our wedding. 

So, JAN’s Michelin star has been 

renewed. How did you celebrate 

this time around? 

All the chefs gathered on Monday, our 

off-day, and we pretty much watched 

the social feed. And then we just basically 

all shouted and opened Graham Beck 

bubbly and drank the whole day, just 

having a really good time. 

You’re in Cape Town for the Good 

Food & Wine Show. What else is on 

your to-do list, food wise? 

There’s not really a lot of time outside the 

show, but I’m trying to eat at as many 

restaurants as I can. Tonight I’m going 

to try Foxcroft, the other day we ate at 

Thali, which was amazing, and where 

else … Willoughby’s. It’s my one-stop 

shop, in and out for a quick plate of 

sushi. Sushi is really rare in France. And it’s 

expensive. €70 for a couple of pieces. 

Are you worried about not being 

at your restaurant? 

I usually am, but I’m getting better. You 

have to learn to let go and trust. That 

bunch is so geared up. There’s almost 

150 steps in place just for the front 

of house. Everyone knows exactly 

what to do. 

CATCH JAN-HENDRIK AT THE GOOD FOOD & WINE 

SHOW IN JOHANNESBURG FROM 28–30 JULY; 

GOODFOODANDWINESHOW.CO.ZA 

What’s currently on the menu? 

It’s spring over there, going slightly 

into summer. We have artichoke with 

mieliepap and sunflower seeds; a tuna 

dish with chakalaka, onion panna cotta 

and deep-fried onion rings, just like we 

enjoy eating them in South Africa – I’m 

actually going to dem that dish at the 

show. Our amuse bouche is bobotie 

inside an egg. Kind of like a Scotch egg, 

but we fill it with guinea fowl bobotie, 

and the custard sets in the egg. It’s kind 

of conceptual, you see this egg coming 

to the table and don’t really know what 

you’re getting. There’s also an edible 

candle of kaaiings and pork fat with our 

famous mosbolletjies. The French love 

them. For mains there’s a Bresse chicken 

served with mustard-and-buchu jus, 

with the foot still attached. 

We actually saw that on Instagram… 

Ja, the South Africans really had a go 

at me for it. And I was quite surprised 

because, come on, this is a runaway! 

PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS INTERVIEW ANNETTE KLINGER

Olive Branch Deli, Shop G5-2, Lifestyle 

on Kloof Centre, 50 Kloof Street, 

Gardens, Cape Town; tel: 073 847 5499; 

olivebranchdeli.com.

ANATOMY OF A DISH 

Bibim-bopping 

Ordering bibimbap at Korean restaurant Soju is a revelation. A piping-hot, custom-made 

stone bowl, filled to the brim, arrives at your table, just waiting for you to get to the best 

bit. Spoiler alert: it’s at the bottom 

1 

2 

7 

8 

6 

4 

3 

5

1. THE BOWL: Called a dolsot in Korean, Soju 

heats up this special stone bowl on a gas stove 

until red hot. The residual heat keeps cooking the 

rice, so that by the time you get to the bottom, 

it has formed an addictively delicious crust. 

“It’s a happy, happy smell,” says co-owner Rota Yi, 

affectionately known as Soju Mama. 

2. THE RICE: Plain white rice grains are 

cooked in an electric steamer with just 

a sprinkling of salt until sticky. 

3. THE MINCE: “The steak mince is top 

quality, so we want to keep its flavour pure,” 

says Soju Mama. “We fry it over a gas flame, 

then drain it of oil, and fry it again with only 

garlic and salt.” 

4. THE VEGETABLES: The veggies change 

according to season, but you’ll usually find baby 

marrow, carrots and shiitake mushrooms – 

stirfried separately – putting in an appearance. 

5. THE SAUCE: Soju Mama is pretty secretive 

about the exact contents of the hot sauce 

she makes, saying it’ll take hours to explain … 

She is willing to concede that she uses traditional 

Korean chilli paste, or gochujang, to give it 

its heat. A small amount is folded through 

the dish at the end. 


6. THE EGG: Sunny side up, with crispy edges, 

the egg is a great foil for the heat of the chilli. 

If you’re lucky, Soju Mama will step in and show 

you how to fold it into the rest of the dish using 

your chopsticks (she takes the liberty of doing 

it for you). 

7. THE FINISHING TOUCHES: A dash 

of sesame oil, a sprinkling of sesame seeds and 

a last drizzle of hot sauce does the trick. 

8. THE SIDES: Many of the ingredients for 

the sides come from Soju Mama’s own vegetable 

garden, so also vary with the seasons. Pickled 

beetroot, carrots and green beans, radish and 

cabbage kimchis, bean sprouts, seaweed and 

sticky-sweet fermented yellow soya beans are 

all regular accompaniments. 

Korean Soju Restaurant, 265A Main Road, Sea Point, Cape Town; 

Tel: 072 736 7845. 

You 

Tube

WHAT I KNOW NOW 

Ben Shewry 

The head chef and owner of Melbourne’s Attica – recently ranked number 32 on the World’s 50 Best 

Restaurants list – on incorporating Australian Aboriginal ingredients on his menu, the importance 

of kindness and how he spends his Sundays (it involves kangaroos) 

I decided to be a chef at age five. My mother, 

Kaye Shewry, agrees. I didn’t do cooking in 

high school until the last year because it wasn’t 

complicated enough. I was already well ahead 

of anything that they could teach me. I had 

worked in professional kitchens from around 

the age of 10 – and it was very intoxicating, 

exciting. Overall, I think it’s my mum’s influence. 

It was 1982 and it’s not like there were TV chefs 

around. We didn’t even have TV. 

36 

As young children, we had amazing 

freedom. My parents had a sheep farm 

in Taranaki, New Zealand. It was a hard land 

to farm and money was short. My mother 

had a huge vegetable garden; at the time 

I didn’t realise that was because of our 

financial situation. 

I had a fascination with Thai cooking. 

That’s also why I moved to Australia. I had 

exhausted my learning options in New Zealand. 

I was inspired by Australian chefs such as 

Neil Perry, Maggie Beer and Cheong Liew. 

My wife, Natalia, and I moved in 2002. I’d been 

to Sydney, but I didn’t like it as a place to live – 

it’s too full on. I heard about Melbourne being 

lovely, so I came here to learn to cook Thai food. 

But when I arrived, there was no good Thai 

food. So, it was a bit of a funny situation. 

[Attica started as a Thai restaurant.] 

Independence is what makes Attica, Attica. 

It’s a standalone business owned by my wife 

and I for the past two years. There are no 

backers. There is no influence other than myself 

and my staff and the country, of course. 

For a city restaurant, we have a huge 

garden – about 15 acres. We rent it from the 

National Trust and grow 100 different types of 

plants. The chefs do it though, no gardeners. We 

grow plants dating back 50 000 years that were 

important sources for the Australian Aboriginal 

people. This garden carries the history of the 

First Australians, the European settlement and 

the first Chinese settlers, who arrived just six 

years after. I wanted the chefs to be in there 

because it’s good for their mental wellbeing. 

PHOTOGRAPHS ATTICA INTERVIEW ISHAY GOVENDER-YPMA

Selecting who you work with is crucial. 

I underestimated this in the beginning. By choosing kindhearted 

souls, we create a positive environment. At Attica, 

we choose based on the quality of the human being, in 

terms of their personality and their kindness. The team 

gathers in a circle at 4 pm every day. There’s a roster and 

each member has a turn at a prepared speech. 

People put in massive effort – they do PowerPoint 

presentations, they do projects and bring the results, 

they do tastings, we watch films. It’s a way to connect 

chefs and front of house, too. 

I’ve been through depression. It’s an issue that strikes 

our industry as much as anybody else’s, but we never, ever 

talk about it. I realised it’s important to have a true mentor, 

somebody outside the restaurant and family who you 

can confide in regularly. You can get trapped in a bit 

of a tunnel and small things can build up. Lance Wiffin 

(a fisherman) is a mentor who helped me when I was 

struggling. New Zealand chef Mark Limacher has also 

been a constant mentor and sounding board for many 

years. He’s an excellent chef and a very smart businessman. 

I like competitive sport. That’s why I enjoy basketball. 

I like to push myself, my body. My son, Kobe, showed huge 

passion for it from five, and so I’ve coached him and his 

team for years. I have sports that I share with my daughters 

as well, like mountain-biking with Ella. Every Sunday we 

ride in the forest or the bush with the kangaroos. 

Follow @benshewry on Twitter and Instagram. 

C 

M 

Y 

CM 

MY 

CY 

CMY 

K 

This spread, clockwise from far left: Ben in Attica’s 15-acre vegetable 

garden; a dramatic interior sets the stage; whipped emu egg sabayon and 

sugar bag-bee honey; “An imperfect history of Ripponlea as told by tarts” 

recreates moments of Ripponlea, the suburb where Attica is located.

TASTES THAT BIND 

PUMPKIN PATCH 

A little sugar and a dash of cinnamon can keep a small boy busy in the kitchen, 

and turn pumpkin into one of his favourite foods, says SAM WOULIDGE 

PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY 

42 

My mom’s attitude to children and 

vegetables alternated between 

encouragement (“If you eat all your 

pumpkin your hair will grow out nice 

and curly”) and punishment (“If you don’t 

eat your pumpkin then you’re not leaving 

this table”). 

I hated pumpkin, mostly because my 

ma did not adhere to the old-fashioned 

Afrikaans school of culinary philosophical 

thought, namely that life was bitter, so 

vegetables should be sweet. There was 

never any sugar sprinkled on our pumpkin. 

Or on our carrots. Nor on our gem 

squash. And definitely not on our mielies. 

Vegetables were steamed and lightly salted. 

Buttered if we were being indulged. Even 

sweet potatoes – the very name insists on 

them being served sweet – were served 

in their skins with only blobs of butter for 

company. But on very rare, very special 

occasions, pumpkin became party fare 

when it was fried into plump fritters and 

sprinkled with cinnamon sugar. I remember 

these pampoenkoekies well because when 

they did make their sweet appearance, 

I ate them without complaining, focusing 

instead on the cinnamon sugar-topumpkin 

ratio and imagining them to be 

a sort of vegetable consolation prize, since 

pancakes were obviously not on offer. 

My husband, Jacques, whose Afrikaans 

mother had married the eldest son of an 

Afrikaans Free State farmer, grew up eating 

pampoenkoekies on a regular basis. He 

recalls a childhood of sweet vegetables. 

My Afrikaans mother had married an 

English-speaking South African, so perhaps 

it was for this reason that her cooking style 

wasn’t as traditionally Afrikaans as it might 

have otherwise been. Growing up, my 

identity was complex. “But what am I?” 

I would ask my parents, when the taunts 

of other children became too much; when 

the English kids called me a “rock spider” 

and the Afrikaans kids called me a “soutie”. 

“You are South African,” my ma and dad 

insisted time and time again. 

Now I have a son with an identity even 

more complex than mine. He has an 

Afrikaans father, a partly English mother 

and, by birth, his heritage is Xhosa. 

As parents, Jacques and I are determined 

that he be proud of all parts of his identity, 

but, just as my parents did for me, we will 

also teach him that he is, above all, a South 

African. And that means an amalgamation 

of languages and stories and flavours. 

With this in mind, I learned how 

to make pampoenkoekies the way my 

mother-in-law makes them. I made them 

for Jacques, because he loves them and 

because they remind him of his childhood 

and of his Free State Ouma Phoebe. And 

I made them for Seb, so that he too can 

one day have childhood taste memories 

that are similar to those of his father. As I 

sprinkled the cinnamon sugar on the puffy 

fritters, I smiled in memory of my own ma, 

turned to my son, whose beautiful crop 

of dreadlocked curls proudly proclaim his 

blackness, and said to him, “If you eat these 

pampoenkoekies, your hair will stay curly.” 

Then we ate those sweet pumpkin fritters 

in memory of those who had gone before. 

Because we are all the sum of our parts. W 

confessionsofahungrywoman.com; 

@samwoulidge 

PUMPKIN FRITTERS 

This is one of Seb’s favourite things to 

make, the mushing and mixing appeals 

to him as much as the sprinkling of the 

cinnamon sugar does. In our family we 

believe pampoenkoekies are best eaten 

piping hot, while standing around the 

kitchen table. 

Makes 12 

EASY 

GREAT VALUE 



pumpkin 500 g, steamed, drained 

and cooled 

free-range eggs 2, beaten 

cake flour 60 g 

baking powder 1 heaped t 

salt a pinch 

butter and oil, for frying 

cinnamon sugar, for sprinkling 

1 Mash the cooled, steamed pumpkin 

with a fork once. (I’m lazy so I buy the 

ready-cubed pumpkin in packets and 

steam it in the microwave according 

to package instructions). 2 Add the 

beaten eggs and mix. Sift in the cake 

flour, baking powder and salt. 3 Melt 

a little butter in a pan and add a little 

oil. When it starts sizzling, drop in 

heaped teaspoons of batter, making 

sure that they are nicely spaced 

apart, and fry each side until lightly 

browned. 4 Remove from pan and 

drain on kitchen paper. 5 Sprinkle 

with cinnamon sugar and eat warm. 

HEALTH-CONSCIOUS, MEAT-FREE 

WINE: Woolworths Shannon 

Sauvignon Blanc 2016 

PORTRAIT MICHAEL LE GRANGE

“I MADE 

PAMPOENKOEKIES FOR 

SEB, SO THAT ONE DAY 

HE CAN HAVE CHILDHOOD 

TASTE MEMORIES THAT 

ARE SIMILAR TO THOSE 

OF HIS FATHER”

#TASTESLIKEMORE 

CALIFORNIA DREAMIN’ 

Food always brings people together says former chef Ilana 

Sharlin Stone, feeling a pang of nostalgia for the staff breakfasts she 

shared in LA kitchens with her Latino “family” of waiters and chefs 

PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY 

44 

Recently, I’ve become a morning 

coffee fly at Foxcroft Bakery, located 

inside Foxcroft Restaurant in Constantia. 

You’ll often find me there before 10 am, 

drinking my Americano (my country 

of origin and drink of choice) at a table 

with a view of the restaurant’s inner 

workings, a view that’s slightly obscured 

by the hanging chorizos and bresaolas 

in the glassed-in charcuterie room, 

and shelves of Foxcroft-made merch: 

flavoured salts, poached quinces and 

other edible goodies. 

Sure, I love the coffee (Tribe) and 

the occasional flaky pastry I give myself 

permission to devour, but to me the 

greatest attraction is the morning 

restaurant kitchen vibe, which injects me 

Find Ilana’s recipe for transformative LA kitchen 

huevos at taste.co.za. 

with a dose of pure sunshine nostalgia. 

The sounds and smells of prep work, 

charcuterie and patisserie in progress, 

and the sight of smiling chefs balancing 

whole fish on trays as they make their 

way upstairs from the basement to the 

line, really peel away the layers. They take 

me back to before I left the chef business, 

and long before I moved from one CA 

(California) to another: Cape Town. Back to 

what was my happy place for many years. 

In a kitchen, the beginning of the day 

shift is the magic hour. Before the pressure 

of service. While everybody is quietly 

doing their thing. When the only sounds 

are the happy buzz of knifework, mixers, 

food processors, occasional chit-chat and 

a distant espresso machine; and in some 

kitchens, music. In Californian kitchens, 

Latin music from local Spanish-language 

radio stations was blasted before service 

by food-speckled, beat-up tinny 

radios. The songs, mostly from 

south of the border, were a mix 

of guitar-driven, wrist-slashing 

ballads and get-up-and-party 

salsa, and they were interspersed 

with cheesy adverts for hit-andrun 

accident lawyers and the 

news, delivered en Español 

at la velocidad de la luz (the 

speed of light). 

In the LA and San Francisco 

restaurants where I worked, many 

employees were Latino. This 

meant predominantly Mexican, 

but also Guatemalan, Ecuadorian 

and Salvadoran. All spoke 

Spanish, and anywhere from very 

little to fluent English. Working 

side by side, I tried to expand my 

command of Español, which was 

limited to one year of high-school 

Spanish and the kitchen Spanish 

I’d picked up on the job. I could 

say lechuga for lettuce, ostras for 

oysters, bien cocido for well done 

(as in steak), caserolas limpias, 

por favor for “Clean pans, please”, 

“THESE HUEVOS 

(EGGS) ARE A KICK- 

ASS BREAKFAST AND 

WAY TO START THE 

DAY. IT’S ALSO A DISH 

THAT MAKES ME BRIM 

WITH GRATITUDE” 

and chingadera, a too-rude-to-be-literallytranslated 

word for whatchamacallit, used 

when a word or name of an item eludes you. 

Besides this useful vocabulary, I learned 

the proper method for shaping and 

wrapping tamales in corn husks, that the 

inner translucent skin of an onion, when 

applied to a hectic finger cut, could stop 

the bleeding, and that the Latino men 

I worked with were sending much of their 

earnings back to their wives and children 

in their home countries. 

In the morning, this mix of cultures all 

regularly converged into a Latino hybrid 

staff breakfast concoction of scrambled 

eggs with sautéed onion, tomato, cilantro 

(coriander), avocado and hot sauce, 

piled into fresh corn tortillas, consumed 

communally an hour or two after the shift 

started. It was a no-brainer to make, yet 

transformative to eat. 

Just as it’s impossible to be unhappy 

when you’re working in the kitchen doing 

something you love, there’s no way you 

can’t have a big smile on your face when 

eating these huevos (eggs). A kick-ass 

breakfast and way to start the day, it’s also 

a dish that makes me brim with gratitude, 

to have experienced the commitment, 

camaraderie and teamwork of chefs from 

many places. We’ve shared so much more 

than huevos. W 

Ilana Sharlin Stone is a Cape-based freelance writer. 

Find her online at findingumami.capetown 

PORTRAIT SIMONA STONE FOOD ASSISTANT CAMILLA REINHOLD

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SCENE STEALER 

7 BIG LITTLE 

REASONS TO VISIT 

ROBERTSON 

Beyond the buzz of its popular festivals and famous wine estates, there’s 

another story to the Robertson Wine Valley – a tale of big personalities 

who love celebrating the small things in life 

PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS TEXT ANNETTE KLINGER 

46 

The Robertson Wine Valley’s unique aspect and climate result in exceptional wines. 

Once a year, as winter approaches, the inevitable question on Capetonians’ minds is: “Are we doing Wacky this year?” You see, there 

are no half measures when it comes to the Wacky Wine Weekend (1–4 June) when the valley – including Robertson, Ashton, 

Bonnievale and McGregor – welcomes a deluge of visitors who shuttle from farm to farm, making the most of their six tasting 

coupons per winery. There’s so much more to this neck of the woods, though. For folks keen on enjoying Robertson closer to its 

natural laid-back state, the Slow Festival (4–6 August 2017) offers leisurely estate lunches and food and wine masterclasses. And, 

if you entertain fantasies of drinking champers on a boat (who doesn’t?), Wine on the River (20–22 October) lets you catch a cruise 

on the Breede River between all your sipping and snacking. But one of the best times to visit is when there’s nothing scheduled, 

locals are going about their business, and you can have this beautiful destination more or less to yourself. 

robertsonwinevalley.com; wackywineweekend.com; robertsonslow.com; wineonriver.com

1. STAY IN THE LITTLE 

HOTEL THAT COULD 

All architectural greys and crisp white 

broekielace, the Robertson Small Hotel might 

look like an old-world sophisticate from the 

outside, but inside this Victorian gal beats 

the heart of a hipster. Because, for all her 116 

years, the building’s new contempo-quirky 

interior suits her perfectly. The revamp, 

driven by owner Abigail Rands, has played 

up The Small’s friendlier, more humorous 

side. “While the level of luxury is high, I didn’t 

want the surroundings to intimidate or 

show off,” says interior designer Sophie 

Ashby from Studio Ashby in London. Sophie, 

who is a childhood friend of Abigail’s, 

collaborated with local young creatives 

including textile designer Alexis Barrell, 

ceramicist Michael Chandler and SMITH 

studio curator Amy Ellenbogen to breathe 

new life into the space, which includes ten 

en-suite rooms, a spa, a bar and a restaurant. 

“It’s now full of art, design, colour and soul.” 

Abigail wanted the food to follow suit 

and steered the menu away from fiddly 

foams and gels. She asked Sophie’s sister, 

Rose, who is a chef at Skye Gyngell’s 

Spring restaurant in London, to consult 

and the result is food that leans heavily on 

seasonal produce and ingredients from the 

valley, including olive oil and tapenades 

from award-winning Marbrin Olives, rose 

geranium cordial from Owl’s Rest lavender 

and olive farm, and wines from local estates. 

Since March 2017, local chef Mariska 

Hennig has headed up the kitchen, 

incorporating a modern bistro spin: hearty 

classics such as five-spice duck breast with 

celeriac mash, and beef fillet with garlicand-onion 

purée, are elevated with refined, 

playful plating. It’s a yin and yang echoed in, 

and complemented by, the décor. Tables are 

set with starched linen and silverware … and 

quirky ceramic cow, pig or horse sculptures 

(custom made for The Small by local 

ceramicists Rialheim Studios) to play real-life 

Farmville with. There are masculine custommade 

leather-and-wood dining chairs, 

whimsical free-form ceramic lampshades, 

and a revolving collection of original art that 

appeals to fans of abstract minimalism and 

offbeat illustrations alike. 

This is a place where painstaking 

attention has been paid to the details. Not 

the least of which is The Small Guide, a 

carefully curated mini-compendium of food 

and drink experiences that extend beyond 

wine tasting. The only catch? You have to 

check in to check out the whole guide. 

therobertsonsmallhotel.com 

1 

45

2 

4. EAT ALL THE 

CHARCUTERIE 

(AND STOCK UP ON 

BREAKFAST WINE) 

Businessman turned viticulturalist 

Theunis de Jongh is what you might 

call an autodidact in the field of winemaking, 

but that didn’t stop him from 

bagging a Michelangelo gold award for 

Kleinhoekkloof’s first ever Shiraz (the 2011 

vintage), made to a soundtrack of Pink 

Floyd, no less. After completing a course 

under charcuterie king Neil Jewel (of Bread 

& Wine restaurant fame), reading up and 

“watching a lot of YouTube videos”, Theunis 

started making his own bresaola, culatello, 

prosciutto, Italian-style salami, coppa and 

Spanish ham using Glen Oakes' free-range 

pork to serve with the estate’s seven wines 

at the tasting room. Theunis’s daughter 

Danielle has subsequently joined him in the 

cellar, and maintains their Merlot rosé is the 

perfect partner for bacon (preferably theirs) 

and eggs. Breakfast wine? Genius. 

kleinhoekkloof.co.za 

48 

2. UNLEASH YOUR INNER BEEKEEPER 

Farmer Redbeard – or Albertus van Zyl as he’s known to his friends – is one of the area’s 

best-kept secrets. Along with his wife, Pat, he lives for offering city slickers a slice of farm 

life. Whether this entails picking fruit in his orchard, harvesting and stomping grapes, or 

collecting honey from his hives (there are beekeeper suits to keep you sting free), depends 

on the season. If you’re more of a sit-back-and-watch type, take a tractor ride through the 

vineyards and up into a eucalyptus forest where you can chill out, sip on the farm’s smallbatch 

wines or moerkoffie (brewed in an enamel pot on a camp fire) and enjoy a traditional 

bush braai. There’s even a converted red bus to crash in (things can get wild up there). 

farmerredbeard.co.za 

3. GET BEER FROM 

A STONE 

The reason why the beers at 

3 4 

Saggy Stone microbrewery are 

so chuggable, according to 

their maker Adrian Robinson: 

spring water, from the top of the 

Langeberg mountains, filtered 

through moss and over granite. 

Of course it helps that Adrian 

knows his way around a brewery. 

And that the brewery is set in 

one of the most beautiful areas in 

the Nuy Valley. If you’re in a hurry, 

simply stop by to fill your car boot 

with California Steam, Big Red Ale, 

Desert Lager and Dark Horse (but 

don’t be, because you’ll miss the 

wood-fired pizza). saggystone.co.za

SCENE STEALER 

6. MEET SA’S ANSWER 

TO COINTREAU 

While Tanagra Private Cellar has no 

shortage of wines, you’ll want to stick 

around for the hard tack. Owner and 

distiller Robert Rosenbach has quite a 

knack for crafting delicious single-variety 

grappas using grape skins from nearby 

Springfield Estate. When it’s not harvest 

time, he distills eau de vie from the 

peaches, apricots, quinces and lemons 

grown on the farm. He’s also turned his 

talents to making an orange liqueur that’s 

just begging to be flambéed in your next 

stack of crêpes Suzette. tanagra-wines.co.za 

5 6 

5. CHANNEL QUEEN ELIZABETH I 

Word is, QE1 thought no breakfast was royal enough unless there was some lavender 

conserve on the table. Knowing little tidbits like this comes with the territory if you happen 

to buy a lavender and olive farm, as Hedley and Patricia Manicorn did when they retired 

from the rat race. While Owl’s Rest’s main claim to fame is its essential oils and eco-friendly 

beauty and household products (all made by Hedley, a chemical engineer), there’s also 

a teeny-tiny café among the groves where you can make like a monarch and enjoy your 

lavender marmalade on freshly baked muffins (both made by Trish) with a cuppa. Oh, and 

their rose geranium cordial? Great with sparkling water; even better with gin. owlsrest.co.za 

49 

7 

7. STRIKE OIL 

Robertson has a couple of great olive oil producers worth a visit and Marbrin Olive Growers is a good place to start. The estate’s intense extra 

virgin olive oil was recently named one of Absa’s top five in the country. Farmer and olive-oil maker Clive Heymans is happy to take you 

through a tasting of the collection, which includes delicate, medium and intense extra virgin olive oils (all cold extracted from a blend of 

Mission, Coratina, Frantoio and Leccino olives), infused truffle, chilli and saffron oils, tapenades and honey. With enough of his home-made 

focaccia for dipping and a shot of his limoncello if you’re brave enough. marbrin.co.za

SO, WHAT 

WILL YOU BE 

DRINKING 

THIS MONTH? 

EDITED BY MICHELLE COBURN 

Raise 

the 

Bar 

PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION ABIGAIL DONNELLY 

FOR THE SAKE OF SAKE 

Smooth, easy-drinking sake will save you this winter. It’s lower in acidity than wine, making it a versatile 

drink to match with anything from sushi to ramen, and it loves dishes using acidic ingredients such as citrus 

(sometimes difficult for wine – see page 54). Styles can be sweet or dry, aromas range from fruity to earthy, 

and flavours can include rice, herbs and nuts. Sparkling versions are light and refreshing but, best of all, sake 

can be enjoyed chilled or warm, as in the ClemenGold hot toddy on page 58. (You might want to make extra: 

tradition dictates that once a sake glass is empty, the host is obliged to refill it without asking. No problem!)

RAISE THE BAR 

Vive la France! 

France has inspired so many top wines made in the Cape that, in honour of Bastille Day on 14 July, 

ALLAN MULLINS says merci for the blended styles made famous by two famous French regions 

52 

“Match the Ken Forrester 

SGM with daube Provençal 

– a rich stew of beef slowly 

braised with red wine, 

onions, herbs and garlic” 

THE RHÔNE VALLEY 

The rocky, stony soils and hot, dry climate 

of the Rhône Valley are echoed in certain 

regions of the Cape, especially the Swartland. 

There are diverse styles in the Rhône, where 

the main red grapes are Syrah, Grenache, 

Mourvèdre and Cinsaut, while the whites are 

Viognier and Roussanne. 

KLOOF STREET SWARTLAND 

ROUGE 2014, R99,95 

Chris and Andrea Mullineux launched 

Mullineux Family Wines in Riebeek 

Kasteel in 2007 and partnered with luxury 

accommodation entrepreneur Analjit 

Singh in 2013 to form the award-winning 

Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines. This Syrahled 

blend demonstrates their mastery 

of Rhône varieties and Swartland soils. 

Tasting notes: The wine gets its plush texture 

and seductive spice from 86% Syrah. Smaller 

additions of Grenache, Cinsaut, Carignan, 

Mourvèdre and Tinta Barocca contribute 

fruitiness, perfume, freshness, light 

earthiness and firm tannins respectively. 

Match with: Slow-cooked lamb knuckles in red 

wine, black pepper, rosemary and garlic. 

KEN FORRESTER SGM 2014, R79.95 

Ken Forrester is known as the king of Chenin 

Blanc but he is just as passionate about 

Rhône varieties. This SGM blend exhibits 

Old World style with New World fruit. 

Tasting notes: Shiraz gives spiciness, white 

pepper and nutmeg; Grenache adds red 

fruits; Mourvèdre gives mid-palate depth. 

Match with: Daube Provençal – a rich stew of 

beef slowly braised with red wine, onions, 

herbs and garlic. 

FAIRVIEW ROAMING GOAT 

2015, R69.95 

Fairview is known for its wine and goats, 

so feels entitled to take a cheeky dig at the 

French Rhône blend, Côtes du Rhône, by 

calling its Rhône varietal blend Goats 

Do Roam. Roaming Goat is an exclusive 

Woolies blend of Rhône varieties with 

extra 50-year-old Grenache to add spice, 

fruit and complexity. 

Tasting notes: Plums and red berries, cloves 

and cinnamon on the nose. A smooth 

palate with inviting fruit and ripe tannins. 

Match with: Spicy meat dishes such as 

Moroccan lamb, chicken tagine or bobotie. 

DMZ CONCERTO WHITE 2016, R69.95 

At Stellenbosch winery De Morgenzon, 

Wendy and Hilton Applebaum play baroque 

music to specific vines. It must work as 

the awards keep rolling in. The Concerto 

White has the Rhône varieties Roussanne, 

Grenache Blanc and Viognier leading the 

ensemble, with Chardonnay and Chenin 

Blanc playing back-up. 

Tasting notes: Opulence meets elegance 

with white peach, ripe pear and tropical 

fruit aromas on the nose, and honey, 

minerals and spice on the palate. 

Match with: Crayfish, prawns or scallops 

with a spicy Asian sauce. 

BORDEAUX 

Bordeaux is the largest fine-wine area in the 

world. Reds account for 90% of production 

and are made from blends of two or more of 

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, 

Malbec and Petit Verdot, while white blends 

are made from Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. 

All these grapes are grown in the Cape where 

similar terroir conditions exist in certain regions. 

JORDAN COBBLERS HILL 

2012, R299.95 

Cobblers Hill is named in honour of the 

Jordan shoe company, started by Alfred 

Jordan who arrived from England in 1890. 

Third-generation shoemaker Ted Jordan 

bought a Stellenbosch wine farm in 1982, 

PORTRAIT ROBBERT KOENE STILL PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS ILLUSTRATIONS GETTY IMAGES

where his son and daugher-in-law, Gary 

and Kathy Jordan, released the first Jordan 

wines in 1993. 

Tasting notes: Cabernet Sauvignon (43%) is 

the backbone of the blend with its dense 

blackcurrant and black cherry flavours; 

Merlot (38%) lifts the red fruit characters 

and adds to the acidity; Cabernet Franc 

(12%) adds a spicy note; Petit Verdot (7%) 

emphasises the intensity of the fruit. 

Match with: Steak with Hollandaise sauce 

and roast potatoes. 

DELAIRE GRAFF REDSTONE 

2015, R129.95 

Delaire Graff, perched high in the 

Helshoogte mountains, is a luxury hotel 

catering to the world’s rich and famous. 

It also produces outstanding wine. Redstone 

is an exclusive five-way Bordeaux blend 

that gets its name from the red, nutrientrich 

Tukulu and Oakleaf soils of the 

Stellenbosch hillside. 

Tasting notes: The base of the wine is 69% 

Cabernet Sauvignon, which provides 

blackcurrant and cassis; Malbec ensures 

the palate is firm yet supple; Petit Verdot 

adds spice and perfume; Cabernet Franc 

is responsible for leafy notes, and the Merlot 

ensures freshness and acidity. 

Match with: Boeuf bourguignon with brown 

rice, roast potatoes and hearty vegetables. 

PORCUPINE RIDGE CABERNET 

SAUVIGNON MERLOT 2015, R59.95 

The Boekenhoutskloof wine team is 

responsible for the Porcupine Ridge range, 

and this Bordeaux-style blend is an exclusive 

collaboration with Woolies. The Cabernet 

Sauvignon and the Merlot come from 

Stellenbosch’s acclaimed red wine area, 

the Helderberg. 

Tasting notes: The 84% Cabernet 

Sauvignon provides dark wild berry 

and cherry notes, tempered by the 

Merlot’s lighter red fruit profile. The 

velvety palate has hints of hazelnut, 

chocolate and liquorice with perfectly 

integrated tannins. 

Match with: Panfried venison steak with 

blackberry sauce. 

NITIDA SAUVIGNON BLANC 

SEMILLON 2016, R79.95 

Nitida is a small farm in Durbanville and 

prides itself on its hands-on approach. 

The grapes for this blend come from 

Durbanville and Darling, both cool areas 

where slow ripening allows for good 

flavour development. 

Tasting notes: A fusion of two contrasting 

but complementary cultivars – the 

crispness of Sauvignon Blanc meets the 

creaminess of Semillon. Their stone-fruit 

flavours overlap and there is yellow 

plum, white peach, green apples and 

a hint of white pepper. 

Match with: Winemaker Daniel Keuler 

suggests East Coast sole and a beurre 

blanc sauce with a salad of freshly 

sprouted microgreens. 

Cape Wine Master 

Allan Mullins has 

selected wines for 

Woolies for more 

than two decades. 

Find him on Twitter 

@AllanMullinsSA. 

Say cheese 

(and wine)! 

Grasping the fundamentals of good flavour 

combos and picking the best wine 

to accompany your favourite French 

cheese is really quite easy 

FRESH AND SOFT CHEESES 

Flavours range from tangy to mild, 

matching well with crisp, fruity, light-bodied 

wines with citrusy or tropical flavours. Avoid 

wines that are high in tannins. The cheese: 

Brie, Camembert, chèvre (goat’s cheese), 

Brillat-Savarin, crottin. The wine: Riesling, 

Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Champagne. 

SEMI-HARD AND 

MEDIUM-AGED CHEESE 

Firm in texture and strong in flavour, 

these cheeses need medium-bodied, 

well-balanced wines. Try sparkling 

whites, apéritif whites and fruity reds. 

The cheese: Cantal, Comté and French 

Emmenthal. The wine: Chardonnay, white 

Burgundy, white Bordeaux, Champagne, 

red Burgundy, Pinot Noir. 

53 

ASIAN 

PERSUASION 

Spice and heat can be 

difficult to match with wine. 

Try these tips the next time 

you’re choosing a bottle 

NO Oaky Chardonnays 

will dull spicy flavours 

and red wines with 

tannins will taste bitter. 

YES Aromatic wines have 

fruity flavours that marry 

well with aromatic dishes. 

Light sweetness tames 

excessive heat and snappy 

acidity lifts Asian flavours. 

Choose Sauvignon Blanc, 

low-tannin juicy reds, 

an off-dry sparkling 

wine, Riesling or 

Gewürztraminer: 

Paul Cluver Ferricrete Riesling 

2016 has bright acidity 

and hints of lemongrass. 

Perfect for Thai curries. 

The Gewürztraminer 2016 

has lively freshness and 

a delicate spicy flavour 

great for . lightly spiced 

Indian curries such as 

butter chicken. 

BLUE CHEESE 

Bold, full-flavoured cheeses with prominent 

salty and savoury flavours like these need 

bold, slightly sweet wines to match. 

The cheese: Roquefort and Cambozola. 

The wine: White Burgundy or Bordeaux, 

Viognier, white Rhône blends, 

Zinfandel, red Port. 

HARD, AGED CHEESE 

Nutty, salty flavours are complemented by 

full-bodied whites, tannic reds and sweet 

Ports. The cheese: Aged Cantal, tomme de 

Savoie, French raclette. The wine: Aged 

white Burgundy or Bordeaux, Riesling, 

Champagne, red Burgundy, red Port.

RAISE THE BAR 

What to drink with … citrus 

Zesty flavours in sweet and savoury dishes can be tricky to pair with wine but not when Allan 

Mullins is on the job – he’s even thrown in a Shiraz surprise 

DANIE DE WET LIMESTONE HILL CHARDONNAY 

UNWOODED 2017, R79.95 

… fish tacos with one-minute lime mayo and pink grapefruit 

on page 76 

Both the tacos and wine contribute grapefruit, lime and citrus. The 

result is a palate-pleasing citrus explosion – and a vitamin C boost, 

making this a good-for-you combo. The wine has been aged on its 

lees (the yeast cells after fermentation), which gives it an appealing 

richness, balancing out the lavish citrus without losing any of its 

impact. The outcome is racy, refreshing, zesty and zippy. 

If you like this, also try: Boschendal 1685 Chardonnay 2016. 

54 

NEIL ELLIS BUSH VINE SHIRAZ GROENEKLOOF 

2014, R99.95 

… with citrus-braised shortrib with green chilli, lime 

and green tomato salsa on page 74 

This luscious Shiraz from a selected vineyard in the Darling 

wine area is a perfect partner for the braised shortrib with 

its flavour-rich, invigorating sauce. Clove and cinnamon, 

black fruit, pepper and the sultry savouriness of the Shiraz 

are flavours that boost the lipsmacking flavours of the 

salsa. The wine’s richly textured body matches the juicy 

succulence of the braised shortrib. 

If you like this, also try: Saronsberg Provenance Shiraz 2015. 

SPRINGFIELD ESTATE MISS LUCY 2016, R109.95 

… with orange-and-fennel mussels on page 79 

The Bruwer family created Springfield Miss Lucy as “an ode to 

the bounty of the sea”, so it’s a natural partner for this orangeand-fennel 

mussel indulgence. The citrus/aniseed elements 

of the dish complement the wine perfectly, with the Semillon 

(32%) bringing a beautiful waxy lemon rind roundness 

and fresh citrus notes, the spiciness of the Pinot Gris (30%) 

picking up with the fennel, and the partially barrel-fermented 

Sauvignon Blanc (38%) giving the weight and body to stand 

up to the fuller flavours. 

If you like this, also try: Groot Constantia Sauvignon Blanc 

Semillon 2016. 

FOOD PHOTOGRAPHS TOBY MURPHY WINE PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS


PHOTOGRAPH SADIQAH ASSUR-ISMAIL 

PRODUCTION JACQUELINE BURGESS 

PLAIN TRUTH 

Fact: a swirl of Woolies' Ayrshire double-cream plain yoghurt through soups, stews, curries 

or sauces gives them decadently delicious hero status. Named the top plain double-cream 

yoghurt at the recent SA Dairy championships, it's thick and velvety, enriched with millions of 

good-for-your-gut bifidobacterium cultures and contains no preservatives. What's not to love? 



ROAST LAMB WITH 

GARLIC-YOGHURT SAUCE 

Gently heat 2 cups 

Ayrshire double-cream 

plain yoghurt with 

2 crushed garlic cloves. 

Cook Woolworths Easy 

to Cook free-range leg 

of lamb according to 

package instructions. 

Swirl 1 x 180 g tub 

hummus through the 

sauce and top with sliced 

lamb, roast beetroot, 

toasted pine nuts, and the 

meat juices. Garnish with 

chopped coriander.

RAISE THE BAR 

The mavericks 

Meet two wine-making entrepreneurs: the sommelier who makes his own wine and 

a banker who gave it all up for life in the vineyards 

58 

MPHUMELELI NDLANGISA 

Maker of Magna Carta natural wines 

Mphumi left the world of finance to start his 

own wine label after “spending a lot of time 

hanging out in wine bars” and developing 

a love for wines by makers who do it differently 

I LEFT MY CAREER IN 

INVESTMENTS because I wanted 

to create a legacy that reflected a 

philosophy I believe in: taking a chance 

by venturing into the unknown to 

achieve something greater. 

MANY WINE DRINKERS ARE 

RISK AVERSE when it comes to trying 

something new. I think education is key. 

I host monthly tasting sessions organised 

through the Facebook group “Magna 

Carta Wine Day” where I single out a single 

varietal and explore its different styles 

and origins. 

MY FAVOURITE GRAPE VARIETY 

TO WORK WITH is Muscat d’Alexandrie. 

It’s a challenging grape prone to mildew 

and botrytis in the vineyard. I love its effusive 

floral notes on the nose. This year I have 

produced two Muscat skin-contact wines 

from single vineyards in Sir Lowry’s Pass 

and Franschhoek. 

PRICE DOES NOT EQUAL QUALITY. 

A surefire way to unearthing some gems 

for a bargain is to start by knowing which 

varietals perform better for which region. 

For a start, you’re safe with a Syrah or 

Chenin Blanc from the Swartland, Pinot 

Noir or Chardonnay from the Overberg 

and Cabernet Franc or Cabernet Sauvignon 

from Stellenbosch. 

DEVELOP YOUR PALATE by tasting 

and smelling everything. I often taste raw 

ingredients and smell random plants. 

Don’t limit your senses. For example, 

I’ve seen wine tasting notes that included 

“smells like freshly cut hosepipe” – 

presumably by an ardent gardener! 

magnacartawines.com 

PORTRAITS JAN RAS AND ANITA NEL INTERVIEWS MICHELLE COBURN 

JOSEPH DHAFANA 

La Colombe sommelier and maker 

of Mosi wines 

Joseph is a leading wine steward who only 

drank his first glass of wine seven years ago – 

a glass of MCC on his birthday in the town of 

Riebeek-Kasteel, where he’d worked his way 

from gardener to barman at a local restaurant 

MY LABEL IS NAMED FOR Mosi-oatunya, 

meaning “the smoke that thunders” 

(better known as Victoria Falls), as I am from 

Zimbabwe. Mosi was born in 2014 with the 

guidance of Roger Clayton of Clayton Wines. 

I started with small batches of Syrah and 

Chenin and now a Merlot. 

WINE LISTS AT FINE-DINING 

RESTAURANTS CAN BE DAUNTING. 

My advice is: tell the somm what you like 

to drink and ask for recommendations. 

It’s so much better than ordering something 

you might not enjoy. 

NEWCOMERS TO WINE should 

start with lighter styles, then move on 

to medium- and full-bodied wines. 

DEVELOP YOUR PALATE by tasting 

as many wines as possible and memorising 

what you taste. Do lots of blind tastings and 

be okay with making mistakes. 

MY FAVOURITE GRAPE VARIETY 

IS CHENIN BLANC. It’s versatile and 

can be used for sparkling wine, still wine, 

brandy, sherry and dessert wine. 

THE MOST MEMORABLE PAIRING 

I’VE EVER HAD was at Creation in the 

Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. Springbok paired 

with The Art of Pinot Noir 2015. It was 

matchless! 

MY FAVOURITE WINE-PRODUCING 

COUNTRY IS SPAIN for its seductive, 

juicy, full-bodied reds from Rioja and Ribera 

del Duero. And nothing beats a bottle 

of Cava in Barcelona! 

Follow @wine_poet on Instagram

PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION FOODLOOSE PRODUCTIONS 

FOOD ASSISTANT CLAIRE GOODERSON 


THE GOLDEN TOUCH 

Whether you prefer yours subtle or intense, peppery or grassy, local or imported Ñ Woolies 

will hook you up with your favourite olive oil. For that big monthly shop, stock up on your 

favourite 1-litre bottle of South African extra virgin olive oil or Cook's Essential olive oil, and 

for a taste of the exotic, choose between imported Mediterranean and Italian olive oils. 



CRISPY SPRING ONIONS 

AND INFUSED OLIVE OIL 

Finely slice 2 bunches spring 

onions. Gently heat 1 cup 

Woolies Cook’s Essential 

olive oil and gently fry the 

onions until they smell toasty. 

Remove the spring onions 

using a slotted spoon and 

drain on kitchen paper. 

Use the reserved oil to liven 

up any Asian broth, noodle 

dish or dipping sauce and 

finish Asian dishes with 

the crispy onion bits.

RAISE THE BAR 

Sake to me, baby 

Rice: good for eating, great for drinking. Just ask Japan, Korea (north and south) and China, 

who each have their own answers to transforming the humble grain into satisfying sips 

CLEMENGOLD SAKE TODDY 

Combine 2 shots sake and 1 shot ClemenGold juice in a Consol 

jar and screw on the lid. Submerge the bottle in a heatproof 

jug or bowl of just boiled water until warmed through, about 

3 minutes. Meanwhile, sprinkle a bit of sugar over two slices 

of ClemenGold and caramelise with a blowtorch or under the 

grill until slightly charred. Divide the hot sake-and-juice toddy 

between two heatproof tumblers and garnish each with 

a caramelised ClemenGold slice. Serves 2. 

JAPAN: SAKE 

Made with polished saka mai (sake rice), water, yeast 

and koji mould, sake is created through a two-stage 

fermentation process, making its production closer 

to that of beer than wine. There are two main styles 

of sake: one made only with rice, and one fortified 

with brewer’s alcohol. Plum sake, made by infusing 

plums with sake, is also popular. Generally, premium 

sakes should be served chilled, while less expensive 

versions benefit from being heated. If it’s the good 

stuff, it should be smooth with subtle sweet, bitter, 

acidic and even umami notes. 

KOREA: SOJU 

With an alcohol percentage of around 20%, this spirit 

doesn’t pack quite the wallop its moniker “Korean 

vodka” would imply, but because it’s customary 

to finish a whole bottle (usually around 360 ml) in 

one sitting, its potency is said to sneak up on you. 

Traditionally distilled from rice (although wheat and 

barley versions are also common), soju is slightly 

sweet and viscous. It’s commonly served straight up 

in a shot glass, but can also be mixed with fruit juice 

(a popular drink at Korean barbeques) or beer. 

CHINA: SHAOXING JIU 

Shaoxing jiu hails from the Zhejiang province of 

China and is the oldest type of yellow rice wine in 

the country (we’re talking between 770 BC and 

476 BC ). Made by fermenting rice with water before 

being pressed, filtered and aged, it’s available in 

dry, semi-dry and sweet varieties, and amber in 

colour. It’s traditionally served at 38°C (warm it up 

by putting the bottle in a jug of hot water), so it’s 

perfect for getting nice and toasty. It also doubles 

as a pantry staple, adding flavour to stirfries. 

PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANT CAMILLA REINHOLD TEXT ANNETTE KLINGER 

EXTRA SOURCES CHILLEDMAGAZINE.COM; SLATE.COM; 1STFOREVERYTHING.COM; GOGHISM.COM; HAPPIEBB.COM; STONYBROOK.EDU; CITS.NET; SHANGHAIDAILY.COM; LEAF.TV; BONAPPETIT.COM


EASTERN FEASTIN’ 

PHOTOGRAPH MICHAEL LE GRANGE PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANT ANDREA MASKEW 

Authentic Asian flavours don't only live at the takeaway 

down the road. Woolworths stocks all the pantry essentials 

you need to whip up everything from tempura veg to 

sweet-and-sour chicken, quick-sticks. It's all there: noodles, 

panko crumbs and tempura flour; sauce essentials 

including sweet-and-sour, Chinese BBQ, Indonesian soya 

and tamarind paste. All you need are chopsticks! 

woolworths.co.za

COMPETITION 

WIN 

Two lucky TASTE readers will win a Smeg 50s retro-style espresso coffee machine, 

plus a hamper of Woolworths ground coffee, each worth R6 500. Bellissima! 

Bring the magic of an authentic 

Italian café into your own kitchen 

with Smeg’s traditional espresso 

machine. Don’t be fooled by its 

good looks, under that beautifully 

curvaceous exterior beats the 

heart of an Italian stallion. Smeg’s 

Thermoblock heating technology 

ensures faster prep and precise 

water temperature control for 

producing coffee, steam or hot 

water, and the 15-bar operating 

pressure means you’ll always get 

the best results. The drip tray even 

has a clever indicator to tell 

you when it’s full. 

smeg.co.za 

THE PRIZE: 

Two lucky readers will win a Smeg 

espresso coffee machine in the 

colour of their choice – cream, 

black, fiery red or pastel blue – plus 

a hamper of Woolworths ground 

coffee, worth R6 500. 

TO ENTER: 

Turn to page 126 for SMS entry 

instructions, or visit taste.co.za. 

QUESTION: 

What is the name of the coffee 

machine’s heating system? 

KEYWORD: Smeg.

BROOKLYN 

MALL OF AFRICA 

Kream is a trendy upmarket restaurant which strives to provide only the best food and service, 

bringing this together to create an unforgettable dining experience. Founded in 2007 by Tufan 

Yerebakan, Kream has established and developed itself into a trendy, one-of-a-kind experience 

for many. Serving delicious modern cuisine in an artistic environment, Kream combines the two 

to provide a great sensory experience. The restaurant’s setting provides private dining, closed 

booths and terrace seating options utilised by many clients for their business and leisure needs. 

Kream offers a wide array of wines from all over the world – a hand-picked selection of only the 

best wines from only the best estates. 

Coined the ‘Wolfpack’, the Kream team is committed to providing guests with the ultimate 

eating experience through exceptional service and value for money. We invite you to come and 

experience Kream Kulture. 

Brooklyn, Brooklyn Bridge, 570 Fehrsen Street, Brooklyn | +27 12 346 4642 /4 

Mall of Africa, Waterfall City, Magwa Cres, Midrand, Johannesburg, 1686 | +27 10 591 0023

You don’t think twice about starting your day 

with your favourite brew or grabbing a cup to go. 

And what would tiramisu be without espresso? 

But there are even more delicious ways to get the 

most from your favourite roast – like a creamy 

sauce for fillet, or a dreamy risotto for dessert 

COFFEE RISOTTO 

R19 PER SERVING

COFFEE CULTURE 

ESPRESS 

YOURSELF 

63 

COFFEE ÎLES 

FLOTTANTES 


PHOTOGRAPHS TOBY MURPHY AND JAN RAS RECIPES AND PRODUCTION ABIGAIL DONNELLY 

TEXT ANNETTE KLINGER AND MICHELLE COBURN FOOD ASSISTANT JACQUELINE BURGESS


64 

COFFEE RISOTTO 

“Sure, it’s dessert, but you’re going to want to eat it 

for breakfast. Served hot or cold, it’s spectacular.” 

Serves 4 

EASY 

GREAT VALUE 



instant coffee granules 1½ T 

vanilla pod 1, split 

risotto rice 100 g 

milk 2 cups 

brown sugar 50 g 

butter 2 T 

cream 1 cup, plus extra for serving 

Woolworths espresso, for serving 

white chocolate 25 g, finely grated, for serving 

1 Place the instant coffee in a nonstick pan with 

1 cup water and the vanilla pod. Bring to the boil. 

2 Add the rice, turn off the heat and soak for 

5 minutes. 3 Return the rice to a low heat, 

add the milk and cook very gently, stirring 

occasionally, until the rice is tender. 4 Add the 

sugar, butter and cream and cook over a low 

heat, stirring for a further 5 minutes. Remove the 

vanilla pod. 5 Serve with extra cream, a shot 

of espresso and finely grated white chocolate. 

WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE 

WINE: Woolworths Porcupine Ridge Cabernet 

Sauvignon-Merlot 2016 

COFFEE ÎLES FLOTTANTES 

“The traditional French floating island consists 

of meringue floating on crème anglaise. This 

turns a double cappuccino into a treat to die for.” 

Serves 4 

EASY 

GREAT VALUE 



GET PERCOLATING 

We’ve all got our favourite way to make the perfect brew. 

These are the most popular 

The coffee plunger 

(French press) 

One of the simplest 

ways to make a great 

cup of joe: add a 

heaped tablespoon 

of ground coffee per 

200 ml water to the 

beaker, pour over hot 

(not quite boiling) 

water and stir. Insert 

the plunger, stopping 

just above the coffee 

level, and brew for 

3–4 minutes before 

plunging and serving 

immediately. 

The coffee 

(and tea) maker 

Equal rights for coffee 

and tea lovers! Add 

ground coffee or tea 

leaves to the filter, 

pour over hot (not 

boiling) water and 

3–4 minutes later 

you’ll have a steaming 

cuppa in hand. 

(Woolies stocks 

this stainless-steel, 

bamboo and 

borosilicate glass 

coffee and tea 

maker, R599). 

The coffee dripper 

The hourglass-shaped 

Chemex dripper with 

its distinctive wooden 

collar brews coffee by 

means of a paper filter 

inserted into the neck 

of the flask. Add 

ground coffee and 

“bloom” it by 

moistening with 

a little hot water. Then 

pour over the desired 

quantity of water (for 

your number of cups) 

and let it percolate 

into the flask. 

“THE ROASTED FLAVOURS, 

BITTERNESS AND ACIDITY 

OF COFFEE MAKE IT A 

PERFECT MATCH FOR SWEET, 

BOLD, EARTHY AND NUTTY 

INGREDIENTS” – ABIGAIL DONNELLY 

free-range egg whites 4 

caster sugar 220 g 

double cappuccinos, for serving 

1 Preheat the oven to 120°C and line a baking 

tray with a silicone mat or baking paper. 2 Beat 

the egg whites until stiff peaks form. Gradually 

add the sugar and continue beating until stiff 

and glossy. Spoon the mixture into a piping 

bag and pipe onto the baking tray. 3 Bake for 

1½ hours, or until slightly golden and a little 

gooey in the middle. Allow to cool and serve 

with a double cappuccino. 

FAT-CONSCIOUS, WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE 

The Moka pot 

A one-cup wonder 

– this one invented 

in 1933 – has had 

a resurgence in 

popularity thanks 

to the ease with 

which it brews 

a perfect espresso 

under pressure 

on the stovetop. 

The Aeropress 

Compact and easy 

to transport, this is 

the perfect one-cup 

coffee maker and, 

thanks to its immersion 

brewing process and 

use of gentle air 

pressure, can brew 

a range of styles in 

around two minutes. 

The espresso 

coffee machine 

Make authentic 

espresso, latte 

macchiato and 

cappuccino at home 

(the system makes 

the perfect mix of 

steam, air and milk 

for an impeccable 

foam). smeg.co.za


CINNAMON 

DOUGHNUTS WITH 

COFFEE ROYAL ICING 

“I’d fly across the world for a great 

doughnut (see page 105 for the 

best in New York) – or I’ll make 

them at home just like this!” 

Serves 6 

EASY 

GREAT VALUE 


Woolworths royal icing mix 

1 x 190 g box 

Woolworths fresh cinnamon 

doughnuts 6 

espresso 1 shot 

double espresso, for serving 

1 Make the royal icing according 

to package instructions using 

the espresso shot instead of water. 

2 Generously spread the coffee 

icing over the doughnuts and 

serve with a double espresso. 

65 

CINNAMON DOUGHNUTS 

WITH COFFEE ROYAL ICING 

R9 PER SERVING


SMOKY MAPLE- 

ESPRESSO BAKED 

BEANS 

“All winter’s comforting flavours – 

smoky, spicy and rich espresso – in 

the simplest and most filling of dishes.” 

Serves 4 

EASY 

GREAT VALUE 



oil, for frying 

pork rashers 400 g, sliced into thirds 

leeks 4, washed and roughly chopped 

garlic 4 cloves, finely grated 

smoked paprika 1 t 

chilli flakes 1 t 

Woolworths Lazy Kettle hickory liquid 

smoke 1 T 

espresso 2 shots 

maple syrup 1 T 

tomato paste 2 T 

Italian whole peeled tomatoes 

1 x 400 g can 

butter beans 2 x 400 g cans, drained 

salt, to taste 

ciabatta, sliced and toasted, for serving 

1 Heat a little oil in a saucepan over 

a medium to high heat. Fry the pork 

rashers until golden and the fat has 

rendered. Remove from the pan. 

2 Add the leeks to the same pan 

and fry until golden. Add the garlic, 

paprika and chilli flakes and cook for 

a few seconds. Add the remaining 

ingredients, along with the pork 

rashers, and simmer for 10–15 minutes. 

3 Season with salt and serve with 

slices of toasted ciabatta. 

DAIRY-FREE 

WINE: Fairview Pinotage 2016 

66 

SMOKY 

MAPLE-ESPRESSO 

BAKED BEANS 

R39 PER SERVING


GLOBAL COFFEE 

CULTURE 

From the simple Italian 

espresso to traditional Turkish 

coffee ceremonies, here’s 

how people around the 

world enjoy their java 

ETHIOPIA: Buna 

In the birthplace of 

coffee, traditional buna 

ceremonies last for several 

hours and involve roasting 

and grinding the beans, then 

brewing, straining and serving 

the coffee – sometimes with 

sugar, butter or salt. 

IT’S A SIPHON-OFF 

Coffee with a side of physics sound good? You need a siphon – 

a.k.a. a vacuum coffee-maker – stat. While it doesn’t offer the pack-up-and-go 

convenience of an Aeropress (see page 64), it does make for a theatrical coffeemaking 

ritual, and a well-balanced brew with body 

1 

2 

3 

FINLAND: 

Kaffeeost 

A cheese called juustoleipä 

is cut into chunks and placed 

at the bottom of the cup, 

then coffee is poured on top. 

After you drink the coffee, 

eat the cheese. Mmm. 

FRANCE: 

Café au lait 

There’s nothing like starting 

your day as the French do: 

dunking a croissant in a café 

au lait – coffee with hot milk. 

4 

5 

6 

67 

ITALY: Espresso 

The average barista in 

New York takes three minutes 

to serve an espresso. By then, 

an Italian would have left in 

a huff. From Milano to Roma, 

espresso is the local version 

of coffee to go – one shot 

consumed standing at the bar 

around 30 seconds after 

you’ve placed your order. 

SILWOOD STUDENT ASSISTANT HELLA BOROCHOWITZ 

SHOT ON LOCATION AT HARD PRESSED CAFÉ, 1 BREE STREET, CAPE TOWN 

MEXICO: 

Café de olla 

Spiced café de olla is brewed 

with cinnamon sticks in 

handmade clay pots, which 

Mexicans say enhances the 

flavour of the coffee. 

TURKEY: 

Türk kahvesi 

UNESCO declared Turkish 

coffee an Intangible Cultural 

Heritage drink for the role it 

plays in traditional culture – 

roasted and finely ground 

coffee beans are simmered 

in a pot and served in a cup 

with sugar or a piece of 

Turkish delight on the side 

to offset the bitterness. 

STEP 1: Pour hot water into the bottom 

glass chamber or bulb. Sink the discshaped 

filter and its attached chain by 

lowering it through the opening of the 

top chamber or hopper, securing the 

chain to the bottom of the funnel 

with a clip. 

STEP 2: Insert the top chamber into 

the bottom chamber, ensuring that 

the bulb is dry (moisture can cause 

cracking). Light the burner below 

it and turn the flame up high. 

STEP 3: While you’re waiting for the 

water to boil, measure out your ground 

coffee. When the water approaches 

boiling point, water vapour forces 

it into the top chamber. 

STEP 4: Turn down the flame of the 

burner. While there’s still a bit of water 

in the bottom chamber, add the coffee 

grounds to the top chamber. 

STEP 5: Stir the coffee grounds into the 

water until they’re completely saturated, 

then brew for 45 seconds to 1 minute. 

Extinguish the flame of the burner. 

STEP 6: Gravity pulls the coffee and 

water mixture through the filter, 

creating a vacuum, and the bulb 

fills with filtered coffee.


FLAT WHITE VS CAPPUCCINO: 

WHAT’S THE DIFFS? 

Some aficionados insist a flat white should always be made with two shots of espresso. Others say the only 

difference is that it’s made with less foam than a cappuccino. We asked the pros for their verdict 

68 

THE DEFINITION: 

“Traditionally, a cappuccino 

is made with a third espresso, 

a third steamed milk and 

a third froth, but nothing 

is strictly a cappuccino or flat 

white anymore,” says Seb 

Schneider from Motherland 

Coffee in Joburg. Lee Venter, 

barista trainer at Truth Barista 

Academy, adds, “In terms 

of espresso to milk, the 

ratio is the same. It’s the 

temperature of the milk 

and the way it’s textured 

that determines whether 

it’s a cap or a flat white.” 

THE ESPRESSO: “A flat white 

is made with a double 

ristretto, a more concentrated 

type of shot than a regular 

espresso,” says Matt Carter 

from Tribeca Coffee 

Company, exclusive coffee 

supplier to Woolworths. 

“A cappuccino is made with 

only one shot of espresso.” 

THE MILK: 

“The milk in a cappuccino 

has more texture because 

more air is incorporated 

during the frothing process,” 

says Seb. “In a flat white, the 

milk has a finer, silkier texture.” 

Rosetta Roastery barista 

Ollie Teddy weighs in, 

“To create microtextured 

foam (with very fine bubbles) 

in a flat white, you steam 

the milk less than you do 

for a cappuccino.” 

THE FOAM: 

"A cappuccino will generally 

have about a centimetre of 

foam, as opposed to a flat 

white, which has about half 

a centimetre,” says Matt. “With 

cappuccinos, the milk tends 

to separate, making a thick 

bubbly foam on top and hot, 

slightly flat milk below, 

resulting in two different 

textures,” says Mike 

McDonald, head roaster 

at Origin in Cape Town. 

THE TEMPERATURE: 

According to Winston 

Thomas, head barista and 

trainer at Origin, the milk 

of a traditional cappuccino 

is steamed to around 75°C, 

while a flat white’s milk 

is steamed at 65°C. “By 

texuring the milk less, 

it also preserves its 

natural sweetness, which 

complements the flavour of 

the coffee better,” says Mike. 

THE CUP SIZE: 

The jury's still out. According 

to Matt, a flat white always 

has to be in a small cup, 

about 180 ml. “As soon as 

you get a big cup, it’s no 

longer a flat white. It's a large 

cappuccino.” Mike, again, 

says, “Cup size is a bit of 

grey area, it differs 

between countries.” 

COOL BEANS Tribeca Coffee Company’s Matt Carter says sourcing the best beans for the 

coffee you buy at Woolies stores and enjoy at WCafés involves so much more than just great taste 

“Socially responsibly sourced coffee not only 

ensures a better deal for the farmer, but also the 

environment and customer,” explains Matt, Tribeca’s 

sustainability manager, who helps to train and 

develop coffee farmers in Tanzania and Ethiopia by 

partnering with local trade organisations. And he’s 

not afraid to go the extra mile. “Recently, we funded 

and helped build a dairy for a female farmer in 

Ethiopia so that she could be organically certified,” 

he says. “We carried logs and rocks up a mountain 

and built it by hand with the community. We’re 

business partners. If we can help farmers produce 

a higher quality coffee, our business thrives, their 

business thrives, and everyone wins.” tribeca.co.za

ARTISANAL SAUSAGES 

BEEF FILLET WITH 

CAFÉ AU LAIT SAUCE 

“Do as the French do and start 

your day with a café au lait – then 

end it with this coffee-mushroom 

sauce (inspired by the famous sauce 

at The Pot Luck Club in Cape Town) 

over steak for dinner.” 

Serves 6 

EASY 

Preparation: 25 minutes, 

plus 3 hours’ soaking time 


For the café au lait sauce: 

cream 2 cups 

coffee beans 50 g 

butter 1 T 

baby portabellini mushrooms 

150 g, halved 

Woolworths organic 

beef stock ½ cup 

sea salt and freshly ground 

black pepper, to taste 

olive oil 1 T 

whole beef fillet 1.9 kg 

butter 30 g 

fresh thyme 1 t 

1 Bring the cream and coffee beans 

to the boil, then remove from the 

heat. Allow to infuse for 3 hours, 

stirring occasionally. 2 Preheat the 

oven to 200°C and heat a large, 

nonstick pan over a high heat until 

smoking hot. 3 Sear the fillet in the 

olive oil on both sides until browned. 

Remove from the pan and place 

onto a baking tray. Place a few knobs 

of butter and the thyme on the meat 

and roast for 15–20 minutes, or until 

cooked to your liking. Allow to rest 

for 10 minutes before slicing. 

4 To finish the sauce, fry the 

mushrooms in a little butter over 

a very high heat until golden. Remove 

from the pan. 5 Strain the coffeeinfused 

cream into the pan and bring 

to the boil. Return the mushrooms to 

the pan, add the stock and reduce for 

a few minutes. Season to taste. Pour 

the sauce over the fillet and serve. 

CARB-CONSCIOUS, WHEAT- AND 

GLUTEN-FREE 

WINE: Vergelegen Shiraz 2015 

BEEF FILLET WITH 

CAFÉ AU LAIT SAUCE

MOCHA 

IN A CONE 

“This recipe is just as 

delicious with hot 

chocolate insead 

of coffee.” 

70 

Serves 6 

EASY 

GREAT VALUE 



dark chocolate 

200 g, melted 

large sugar cones 6 

Woolworths chocolateflavoured 

ground coffee 

6 shots 

1 Using a teaspoon, drizzle 

the melted chocolate into 

the cones. Rotate the cones 

as you work, allowing 

the chocolate to spread 

evenly. Place the cones into 

shallow cups and chill to 

set, about 10 minutes. 

2 Add another layer 

of chocolate in the same 

way as you did the first. 

Chill to set. Prepare 

the coffee. 3 Pour the 

coffee into the cones and 

serve immediately. 

MOCHA IN A CONE 

R20 PER SERVING


ROASTERY ROUND-UP 

All coffee beans have an optimal roast: the point where the aroma, body, acidity and flavour meet perfectly. 

These are just some of the talented folks getting it right in SA 

CAPE TOWN 

Bean There 

With roasteries in Cape Town and 

Johannesburg, Bean There roasts 

single-origin, unblended coffee 

beans from Africa. Their Rwanda 

Musasa has a light fruity aroma 

and creamy toffee flavours. 

beanthere.co.za 

Origin 

Started in Cape Town in 2006, Origin 

is widely seen as the pioneer of the 

new coffee culture in the Mother City. 

It offers quality roasts from around 

the world and can also be found in 

Joburg at Arts on Main in Maboneng. 

orginroasting.com 

SILWOOD STUDENT ASSISTANT HELLA BOROCHOWITZ; SHOT ON LOCATION AT HARD-PRESSED CAFÉ, 1 BREE STREET, CAPE TOWN 

Rosetta Roastery 

Rosetta micro-roasts single-origin 

coffees from Asia, South and Central 

America and Africa. The Ethiopian 

Biloya Yirgacheff boasts ripe citrus 

flavours and the Costa Rican La Luisa 

has sweet caramel notes and a 

creamy mouthfeel. rosettaroastery.com 

Tribe 

Visit the Woodstock café for a great 

cup of coffee and go home with 

perfect single-origin beans. The 

espresso blend boasts aromas and 

flavours from chocolate and truffle oil 

to candied red cherries. tribecoffee.co.za 

DURBAN 

Bean Green Coffee Roastery 

Bean Green prides itself on stocking 

only Ethiopian beans and its awardwinning 

Bluff Bru house blend 

consists of three premium beans: 

the medium-roasted Harrar and 

Yirgacheffe, with some dark-roasted 

Sidamo bean. beangreen.co.za 

Colombo Coffee and Factory Café 

Colombo sources green (unroasted) 

beans in Africa, Central and South 

America and Indonesia and roasts them 

to bring out their unique properties. 

Try the Gitwe from Burundi, which 

has orange marmalade and honey 

notes. colombo.co.za; factorycafe.co.za 

JOHANNESBURG 

Doubleshot Coffee and Tea 

The folks at this Braamfontein hotspot 

hand-select the best beans and roast 

them in small batches. The Brasil from 

Serra Negra estate has a hazelnut 

flavour with malty and milk chocolate 

notes. doubleshot.co.za 

Father Coffee 

The trendy Father Coffee espresso 

bars in Braamfontein and Rosebank 

(also home to the roastery) serve 

house-roasted coffee sourced from 

Central America and Africa. The 

signature Heirloom blend boasts 

flavours of raspberry, lime, nut and 

dark chocolate. fathercoffee.co.za 

Tribeca 

Woolies partner Tribeca deals directly 

with coffee farmers and co-ops in 

Africa, Central and South America 

and Indonesia. It invests in its 

suppliers and sources sustainably 

grown beans (see page 68) roasted 

at the Centurion headquarters. The 

speciality coffees are distributed 

throughout SA, including to the five 

Tribeca cafes in Joburg and Pretoria. 

tribeca.co.za 

TAKE A LOAD OFF AT WCAFÉ 

All WCafé baristas undergo training with some of the best in the business. 

Don’t miss these flagship stores in Joburg, Durban and Cape Town 

CROWTHORNE 

SHOPPING 

CENTRE 

Corner Main Road 

and Arthur Avenue, 

Kyalami; tel: 011 

840 8914 

BALLITO 

LIFESTYLE 

CENTRE 

445 Ballito Drive, 

Ballito; tel: 032 946 

8440 

WATERSTONE 

VILLAGE 

SHOPPING 

CENTRE 

Corner R44 and Main 

Road, Somerset West; 

tel: 021 851 8333. 

71

IN SEASON: CITRUS 

Main 

squeeze 

Nothing zests up your life in the chilly season 

quite like a glass of lip-puckeringly fresh citrus juice. 

But the season’s most versatile fruit 

is just as delicious squeezed into a creamy seafood sauce, 

grated into a comforting pudding, 

or roasted with the juiciest chicken 

you’ll eat 

this winter 

72 

PHOTOGRAPHS TOBY MURPHY 

RECIPES AND PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY 

FOOD ASSISTANT CAMILLA REINHOLD

BUTTERMILK RYE CRÊPES SUZETTE 

WITH CLEMENTINES 


INGREDIENT SWAP 

Use amasi instead of milk or cream to add delicious tang to the batter 

– a perfect match with the clementines.


102 

BUTTERMILK RYE 

CRÊPES SUZETTE 

WITH CLEMENTINES 

“Crêpes Suzette is an oldie but a goodie. I find 

such comfort in the soft texture and stickysweet 

flavours, and flambéeing them is great 

fun when you’ve got guests for dinner.” 

Serves 6 

EASY 

GREAT VALUE 



large free-range eggs 3 

amasi or buttermilk ¾ cup 

milk ½ cup 

rye flour 50 g 

cake flour 35 g 

butter 65 g, melted 

canola oil, for frying 

For the clementine sauce: 

clementines 7 (4 juiced and 3 sliced) 

lemon 1, juiced 

sugar 50 g 

brandy 3 T 

butter 2 t 

CITRUS-BRAISED SHORTRIB WITH CHILLI, LIME AND 

GREEN TOMATO SALSA R34 PER SERVING 

COOK’S TIP 

Oranges and limes star in this moreish crowd-pleaser. Serve it 

with creamy diced avo for even bigger happiness. 

1 Blend the eggs, amasi or buttermilk and 

milk until smooth. Add the flour and blend 

again. Steadily pour in the melted butter 

while blending, then strain the mixture 

through a sieve. 2 Heat a swipe of canola 

oil in a nonstick pan, then pour in enough 

batter to just cover the base of the pan. 

As it starts to bubble and the edges begin 

to lift, carefully flip over and cook for another 

minute or so. Repeat with the remaining 

batter. 3 Meanwhile, heat the clementine 

and lemon juice, sugar and 1 T brandy in 

a saucepan, whisking until the sugar has 

dissolved. Add the sliced clementines and 

caramelise, then reduce the sauce until 

syrupy. Warm the remaining brandy, add to 

the sauce and flambé, then stir in the butter. 

Pour the sauce over the crêpes and serve 

immediately. 

WINE: Woolworths Jordan Unwooded 


CITRUS-BRAISED 

SHORTRIB WITH CHILLI, 

LIME AND GREEN 

TOMATO SALSA 

“Eating lots and lots of spicy shortrib is how 

you will survive winter 2017! The zesty lime and 

tomato salsa brings all the flavours to life.” 

Serves 8 

EASY 

GREAT VALUE 



beef shortrib 2 kg 

olive oil 2 T 

cumin seeds 1 T, crushed 

whole dried chillies 2–4 

cherry tomatoes 550 g, blended 

red wine vinegar 1 T 

oranges 2, zested and juiced 

garlic 2 cloves, crushed 

fresh thyme 1 t 

water ½ cup 


to taste 

For the chilli, lime and tomato salsa, mix: 

coriander 30 g chopped 


green chillies 2–3, sliced 

green or exotic tomatoes 200 g, sliced 

limes 4, zested and juiced 

olive oil 2 T 


to taste

LEMON CURD 

LAVA PUDDINGS 

75 

EASY PEASY, 

LEMON SQUEEZY 

To make the chocolate-chip sauce 

on our cover, melt 1 x 200 g packet 

Woolworths chocolate chips, 

½ cup cream and 1 T butter in a pan, 

then whisk until smooth. To serve, 

pour the sauce over the puddings 

and garnish with grated chocolate 

and lime zest. See recipe overleaf.


76 

1 Preheat the oven to 160°C. Brown the 

shortrib in the olive oil in a cast-iron pan. 

Add the cumin seeds and chillies and toast 

until fragrant, then add the tomatoes, red 

wine vinegar, orange juice and zest, garlic, 

thyme and water. Season, cover and braise 

in the oven for 3 hours, or until tender, 

uncovering for the last 30 minutes. 

2 Serve drizzled with the salsa. 


DAIRY-FREE, WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE 

WINE: Woolworths Neil Ellis Shiraz 2014 

LEMON-CURD 

LAVA PUDDINGS 

“Lemon curd is so easy to make yourself and 

I love using it in this citrusy take on a chocolate 

fondant. Simply double the quantity of batter 

if you have more guests. 

Serves 6 

EASY 

Preparation: 45 mintues 


For the lemon curd: 

large free-range eggs 4 

large free-range egg yolk 1 


butter 225 g 

large lemons 4, juiced and zested 

good-quality cocoa 1 T, plus extra 

for dusting 

dark chocolate 200 g, chopped 

butter 200 g, chopped 

free-range eggs 4 

free-range egg yolks 4 

vanilla extract 1 T 


flour 50 g 

1 To make the lemon curd, place a 

saucepan over a medium to low heat. Whisk 

together the eggs and egg yolk and place in 

the saucepan. Add the sugar, butter, lemon 

juice and zest. Whisk continually for 10–15 

minutes, or until smooth and thick. Remove 

from the heat. Allow to cool and thicken 

further. Spoon 1 T lemon curd into 6 cavities 

of an ice tray and freeze. 2 Preheat the oven 

to 200°C. Grease 6 metal dariole moulds 

or tea cups and dust with cocoa powder. 

Melt the chocolate and butter in a glass 

bowl over a pan of simmering water. Cool 

for 10 minutes. 3 Whisk the eggs and sugar 

until creamy. Stir in the vanilla extract and 

the chocolate mixture. Sift in the flour and 

cocoa and fold in. 4 Half-fill the moulds with 

batter, then add a cube of frozen lemon 

curd to each mould and add more batter 

until they are two-thirds full. Bake for 15–20 

minutes, or until the tops spring back when 

gently touched. Run a knife around the 

edges of the cakes and turn out onto plates. 

WINE: Woolworths Spier Natural 

Sweet White 2016 

STICKY CLEMENGOLD- 

GLAZED ROAST CHICKEN 

WITH PUMPKIN WEDGES 

Serves 4 

EASY 

GREAT VALUE 

Preparation: 30 minutes, plus 

10 minutes’ brining time 

Cooking: 1½ hours, plus overnight 

brining 

fine salt 160 g 

brown sugar 55 g 

red wine vinegar 2 T 

water 1 litre 

oranges 3, juiced (keep the skins) 

lemon 1, juiced (keep the skin) 

whole free-range chicken 1 

ClemenGolds 6 

garlic 1 head, halved 

pumpkin ½, cut into large wedges 

fresh sage 2 t 

olive oil 4 T 

butter 100 g 


to taste 

mixed seeds 50 g, roasted 

1 To make the brine, mix the salt, sugar, 

vinegar and water and bring to a simmer. 

Add the orange and lemon juice and skins 

and cook until the salt and sugar have 

dissolved. 2 Place the chicken in a large 

container and pour over 2½ litres water 

and the brine. Cover and chill overnight. 

3 Preheat the oven to 220°C. Rinse the 

chicken under cold water and pat dry 

using kitchen paper. Stuff with 1 halved 

ClemenGold and the garlic. Tie the legs 

together with string. 4 Arrange on a large 

baking tray with 3 sliced ClemenGolds, the 

pumpkin and sage. Drizzle over the juice of 

2 ClemenGolds and the olive oil, dot with 

butter, season and roast for 1–1½ hours, 

basting regularly with juices until the 

chicken is cooked through. Serve warm 

with the roasted seeds. 

HEALTH-CONSCIOUS, WHEAT- AND 

GLUTEN-FREE 

WINE: Woolworths Hartenberg 


FISH TACOS WITH 

ONE-MINUTE LIME 

MAYONNAISE AND 

PINK GRAPEFRUIT 

“After making this one-minute (no fake 

promises here!) mayo, you will never look back.” 

Serves 6 

EASY 

GREAT VALUE 



For the one-minute lime mayonnaise: 

sea salt a pinch 

lemon ½, juiced 

garlic 8 cloves, roasted 

large free-range egg 1 

canola oil 1 cup, plus 3 T 

limes 1–2, zested and juiced 

canola oil 1 cup 

wraps 6 

hake 2 x 450 g fillets, cut into small squares 

olive oil 2 T 

butter 1 T 


to taste 

fresh coriander 2 t 

small cucumbers 6, sliced 

grapefruit 2, segmented 

fresh green chillies 4, sliced 

spring onions 2, sliced 

black salt, to taste 

1 To make the mayonnaise, place the salt, 

lemon juice, garlic, egg (take care not to 

break the yolk) and canola oil into the jug 

of a stick blender. Lower the stick blender 

into the jug, making sure the basket of the 

blender is directly over the yolk and start 

blending. Once ribbons start to appear, pull 

the blender up to emuslify the remaining 

mayonnaise. Fold in the lime zest and 

juice to taste. Set aside. 2 To make the fish 

tacos, heat the canola oil in a saucepan. 

Cut 2 circles out of each wrap, then fry on 

both sides until golden and crisp. Drain 

on kitchen paper. 3 Heat the olive oil and 

butter in a nonstick pan and gently fry the 

fish for 1–2 minutes on each side, or until 

tender but cooked through. Season to taste. 

4 To assemble the tacos, spoon 1 t lime 

mayo onto each taco, top with coriander, 

cucumber, fish, a segment or two of 

grapefruit, green chilli, spring onion 

and black salt. 

WINE: Woolworths Danie de Wet 

Limestone Hill Chardonnay 2017

THE SECRET’S IN THE CITRUS BRINE! 

Brining a whole chicken adds flavour and tenderness to the meat. Add orange and lemon skins (see recipe opposite), plus an overnight session in the fridge 

(patience, people!), and you’ll have the juiciest, tastiest roast chicken you’ve ever eaten. 

STICKY CLEMENGOLD-GLAZED ROAST CHICKEN WITH PUMPKIN WEDGES 


77 

“One of the things I love about winter is Woolies’ sun-ripened 

ClemenGolds. They’re zesty-sweet, virtually seedless and turn everyone’s 

favourite roast chicken into a next-level supper” – Hannah Lewry

78 

FISH TACOS WITH 

ONE-MINUTE LIME 

MAYONNAISE AND 

PINK GRAPEFRUIT 


COOK’S TIP 

Lime intensifies the flavour 

of the delicious garlicky mayo 

and the grapefruit segments 

add vibrant colour to the 

finished tacos.


CARAMELISED ORANGE- 

AND-FENNEL MUSSELS 

“We all love mussels in a good cream sauce 

but this one will blow you away – it might 

take a little time but it’s worth the wait.” 

Serves 4 

EASY 

GREAT VALUE 


Cooking: 1 hour 

fennel 3 large bulbs or 6 small, sliced 

oranges 4 

garlic 4 cloves 

olive oil 2 T 

butter 1 T 

chicken stock 3 cups 

mussels 1 kg, cleaned 

cream 1 cup 


to taste 

1 Preheat the oven to 180°C. Arrange the 

fennel, the rind of 1 orange, 2 oranges, 

halved, and the garlic on a baking tray. 

Drizzle with olive oil, dot with butter and 

roast for 30 minutes, or until caramelised. 

2 Transfer the fennel and garlic to a large 

saucepan, add the stock and squeeze in 

the juice of the oranges. Bring to a simmer, 

uncovered, until the fennel is very tender, 

about 20 minutes. 3 Add the mussels and 

simmer until opened. Remove the mussels 

and set aside. Blend the sauce until smoth, 

return to a low heat, add the cream and the 

mussels and simmer until warmed through. 

Season to taste and serve warm with fennel 

fronds, diced orange segments and lots 

of black pepper. 



CARAMELISED ORANGE-AND- 

FENNEL MUSSELS 


FLAVOUR NOTE 

Fresh orange juice, fennel and garlic – 

the secret to a truly knockout 

(easy!) cream sauce.

PEOPLE AND FOOD 

Manny’s original 

prego – dripping in 

secret sauce. 

80 

Pass 

the 

peri-peri 

PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS PRODUCTION ABIGAIL DONNELLY TEXT KATE ELS


Slap chips at Manny’s and prawns at Parreirinha are a sure sign 

you’ve gone just far enough into Joburg’s southern suburbs to 

discover a handful of no-frills eateries – institutions where the rich 

Portuguese influence has been drawing locals for decades 

A family affair – Ylisabete, José, 

Gloria and matriarch, Maria 

da Cunha, of Parreirinha.


Above, from left: Freshly baked each morning, Bembom offers traditional Portuguese pastries; sardines at Rio Douro Fisheries; thousands of ties hang from the rafters 

of Parreirinha in Rosettenville – testament to many a boisterous business lunch. 

82 

TRYING TO GAIN 

a sense of place while standing on a corner 

of Rosettenville’s Main Street is a bit like 

going for a spin in a hurricane. Colour, 

scent, grime and chaos merge against 

a backdrop that’s distinctly from the 1950s, 

but that’s mostly been updated with newer, 

brighter signage. 

Amid the sensory overload, I’m 

transported back 25 years to the time 

when my mother owned a small shop 

in this community, a time when the 

Portuguese influence of this place settled 

into my cultural tapestry. 

For those who grew up around here, fish 

and chips from Manny’s, an icy caipirinha at 

Lusito Land and the legend of Nando’s are 

points of pride. Families that settled here 

between 1930 and 1970 are seeing in their 

third generation, passing on ritual and fiery 

spirit, and keeping the Portuguese flavour 

integral to Rosettenville alive. 

Eateries, cafés, bakeries and fishmongers 

dotted throughout the suburb and its 

surrounds form an inseparable community 

that has been responsible for countless 

fond food memories for Johannesburg’s 

diners. From the first taste of a rissole, 

to the sweet flesh of bacalhau (cod) and 

the zing of garlicky peri-peri sauce, this 

is the epicentre of that community. 

This is not a fine-dining experience. 

It’s a melting pot of distinct flavour and 

tradition that often ends in diners ignoring 

the cutlery to dig in with their hands. 

Welcome to Johannesburg’s spicy south… 

A PLACE FOR PEIXE 

While it might be the chilli, paprika 

and bay leaves that define Portuguese 

fare, the foundation is great seafood. 

There are obviously other options, but 

Rio Douro Fisheries is the predominant 

Mediterranean deli for shoppers and 

restaurants around here. 

“JUICY PREGO 

ROLLS, GARLICKY 

TRINCHADO AND 

THE BEST SLAP 

CHIPS IN JOBURG. 

THIS IS WHERE 

TO GO IF YOU 

NEED A QUICK 

PORTUGUESE 

FOOD FIX” 

Memories of strong-handed women 

scraping the scales off fish, while 

Mediterranean mothers bickered over 

salted bacalhau flood my brain as Manny 

Sequeira, one of the four siblings who now 

own Rio Douro, says nostalgically: “This 

is where I grew up and now my kids are 

growing up here, too. We have staff who 

remember me running around here as a 

little boy and they’re now seeing my own 

kids in the shop.” 

With its beginnings as a humble 

fish-and-chip shop on a nearby block, 

the four siblings’ father, Artur David 

Sequeira, started selling fresh fish to 

regulars. Over time, the operation 

expanded and eventually became a 

Portuguese deli that bustles every Saturday. 

“We have become a destination for 

continental delicacies; generations have 

shopped here.” Manny laughs when 

I suggest that his family is famous in 

these parts. But, in a sense, it’s the truth. 

In a good year, Rio Douro imports and 

sells 72 tonnes of bacalhau. This sustainably 

caught speciality cod is salted, dried and 

shipped to South Africa from Norway, 

right to the doors of this fishmonger. From 

Rio Douro, it’s sold on to traditionalists 

who shop here and dispatched in big 

batches to restaurants to be presented 

in stews, rissoles, fresh off the flames, 

or in a multitude of other dishes. 

Rio Douro is not only a stop for those 

with a Portuguese heritage, though. It has 

also become one of the most reliable delis 

in Johannesburg for ingredients not found 

elsewhere. In recent years, there has also 

been a growing clientele of immigrants 

longing for a taste of home, especially 

those from former Portuguese colonies 

such as Angola and Mozambique. 

This is a deli filled with memories. 

The siblings laugh over one of the


“ALL THAT REALLY MATTERS IS 

THAT GREAT PASTÉIS DE NATA 

COULD BRING ABOUT WORLD 

PEACE IF CONSUMED BY WORLD 

LEADERS SIMULTANEOUSLY, 

FRESH OUT OF THE OVEN” 

Clockwise, from above left: Sergio de Andrade, Fernando Domingues and Suzy’s husband, Manuel Farinha, shoot the breeze café-style at Bembom; perfect pastéis de nata; 

Filomena Jardin with a display of local chorizo at Rio Douro Fisheries; chicken livers and bacalhau – staples at Parreirinha.


OTHER PORTUGUESE 

SPOTS TO TRY 

MADEIRA BAR 

Cheap and cheerful 

56 Winnie Street, Regents Park, 

La Rochelle, Johannesburg 

011 435 2477 

A CHURRASQUEIRA 

Moved from Rosettenville, 

still great for families 

37 Webb Street, Brackendowns, 

Johannesburg 011 867 5914 

BELEM BAKERY 

A prominent Portuguese bakery 

57 Augusta Road, Regents Park, 

Johannesburg 011 435 1004 

Parreinrinha. Each day, she spends most 

of her time in the kitchen, making sure 

every dish is prepared to her standard. 

“I get bored on Sundays when we close 

the restaurant. My children say I need 

rest, but I love it here too much.” 

9 6th Street, La Rochelle, Johannesburg; 

tel: 011 435 3809 

Above: A stop at Rio Douro Fisheries can turn into a major shopping spree. Portuguese pottery, salted bacalhau, 

and traditional sausage can be found among other imported fare. 

most prominent of these in their mind: 

portioning hundreds of pieces of bacalhau 

through the night around Easter, when the 

dish becomes even more popular during Lent. 

In just one memory the siblings capture 

the essence of what has made Rio Douro 

a destination: its loyal community who 

travel from even further than Johannesburg’s 

boundaries to buy their favourite produce. 

155 Main Street, Kenilworth, Johannesburg; 

tel: 011 683 3617 

THE MOTHER OF ROSETTENVILLE 

Joburg allows very little to remain the 

same, but some corners remain unchanged. 

One of these is Parreirinha (say Pa-rey-ringhere), 

the Portuguese restaurant that most 

residents of the City of Gold will know. 

Here, matriarch Maria da Cunha oversees 

her kitchen, family and an army of ties 

strung from the rafters left behind after 

raucous business meetings. 

Meaning “little grapevine”, Parreirinha 

first opened its doors in 1975 in what 

had previously housed the Sixth Street 

police station. The original cell bars are still 

visible, but these days patrons are fighting 

to get in rather than out. 

“It doesn’t feel like I’ve been here for 

42 years,” Maria says with honest disbelief. 

Describing her regular customers, she 

seems to recall the details of each person’s 

life. She’s watched little boys grow into 

doctors and, in turn, bring their own 

families to the restaurant. 

Maria’s three children are entrenched 

in Parreirinha, overseeing the front of 

house, admin and the kitchen. Patrons 

return for the food, but also the incredible 

family welcome. 

Each year, Parreirinha pushes itself 

to capacity during its birthday celebrations, 

selling prawn platters at way below 

their regular price as a thank you to 

loyal customers. Within just three days, 

bookings are snapped up. 

If anything, the past four decades have 

only made Maria more dedicated to 

THE (ALMOST) 200-YEAR- 

OLD PASTRY 

“This is the Portuguese club,” laughs 

Suzy Farinha as she sits in her bakery 

in Oakdene (just outside Rosettenville), 

surrounded by loyal patrons. “My family 

owns the group of Bembom bakeries 

but this is the one with the largest 

Portuguese community. And it’s the 

original Bembom.” 

With a surname that literally translates 

to “flour” in English, it’s a natural fit for 

her to be surrounded by it. Suzy moved to 

South Africa from Portugal after spending 

three months in Johannesburg looking 

after the bakery for her sister. “I fell in 

love with Bembom, and my husband fell 

in love with the weather here.” 

Suzy likens Bembom to a soap opera, 

with a close-knit community that shares its 

joys, sorrows and gossip. It’s a favourite for 

pensioners and young families, ladies who 

lunch and men who want to shoot the 

breeze. And on Saturdays, the queues can 

sometimes be out the door when people 

wait in line to get their pastéis de nata. 

These bite-sized custard tarts stake their 

origins in Lisbon in the 18th century, the

85 

Clockwise, from top left: Manny, Fatima and Artur Sequeira of Rio Douro Fisheries; trinchado with bread so that no sauce is left behind at Hillside Fish & Chips; Beauty 

Vieira-Correia and Chris Retief share a meal at Hillside Fish & Chips; daily specials at Bembom; prawn rissoles seasoned with white pepper at Parreirinha. 

product of excess egg yolks in a monastery 

that knew what to do with them when the 

egg whites were all being used to starch 

nuns’ habits. To me, all that really matters is 

that great pastéis de nata could bring about 

world peace if consumed by world leaders 

simultaneously, fresh out of the oven. 

Comaro Crossing Centre, Oakdene, Johannesburg; 

tel: 011 435 3618 

PREGO DAYDREAMS 

Fondly known as Manny’s after its former 

owner, Hillside Fish & Chips is an 

institution. Whether it was an after-school 

lunch, a Saturday morning hangover cure, 

or family dinner, Manny’s covered it all. 

When Manny Frade, the original 

owner, passed away in 2014, longstanding 

patrons of Hillside Fish & Chips who 

have supported the establishment since it 

opened in 1966, were terrified it would 

close its doors. 

“FROM THE FIRST 

TASTE OF A 

RISSOLE, TO THE 

SWEET FLESH 

OF BACALHAU 

AND THE ZING OF 

GARLICKY PERI- 

PERI SAUCE, THIS 

IS THE EPICENTRE 

OF THAT 

COMMUNITY” 

Fortunately Hillside Fish & Chips was 

taken over by Manny’s neighbour, Beauty 

Vieira-Correia, who vowed to keep it 

exactly the same. The original menu, 

specials and staff are waiting when you 

walk through the door. Chris Retief, who 

now helps manage the shop, was himself 

a long-term patron and takes pride in the 

fact that the same recipes are used and the 

original dishes that Manny made famous 

are still available to this day. 

Hillside Fish & Chips is a nostalgic trip 

for anybody who grew up in Joburg’s south. 

The sharp tang of garlic hangs in the air, the 

sizzle of chips hitting the fryer is constant, 

and the trickle of prego sauce down your 

hands are what you’ll remember from here. 

Regulars pop in and discuss their lives, 

teenagers hang around outside sipping 

on cooldrinks and elderly couples wait 

patiently for their midweek meals. 

From juicy prego rolls and garlicky 

trinchado to what I think are the best 

slap chips in Joburg, this is where to go 

if you need a quick Portuguese food fix. 

It’s café food at its best, and you’ll feel at 

home almost immediately with the banter 

between staff and customers. 

76 Petunia Street, The Hill, Johannesburg; 

tel: 011 435 3759

RESTAURANTS 

SA’S TOP 

10 

86 

La Colombe's Asian-style scallops and 

pork belly with kimchi, corn, miso brinjal, 

crackling, lemongrass and ginger velouté. 

GAME-CHANGERS 

PHOTOGRAPHS EAT OUT, CRAIG FRASER, MICHAEL LE GRANGE, MICKY HOYLE, DONNA LEWIS, 

VANESSA LEWIS AND JAN RAS TEXT MICHELLE COBURN AND ABIGAIL DONNELLY

The Tasting Room at Le Quartier Français 

The Tasting Room has closed, The Test Kitchen has run pop-ups in Langa, and 

Reuben’s and The Leopard have moved! 2017 is shaping up to be big in the 

The Test Kitchen 

restaurant biz. There’s no better time to look back at some of our most iconic 

restaurants, so here (in no particular order) are TASTE’s top 10 trailblazers 

The Leopard

88 

1. 

THE TEST KITCHEN 

FOR CONSISTENT INNOVATION AND REINVENTION 

“My mantra is ‘taste, taste, taste,’ ” says chef-proprietor Luke Dale-Roberts, and it’s this mantra that underpins his bold experimentation 

with layers of flavour, first at La Colombe, where he joined the team in 2006, then at the now legendary The Test Kitchen, which 

Luke opened in November 2010 in Woodstock. Here he had free rein to innovate – the sum of his prior experience in London 

and Switzerland, as well as a five-year stint in Asia – in a way that captured the imaginations and taste buds of local diners and 

international luminaries alike (Heston Blumenthal described Luke as having the ability to “put seemingly incongruent ingredients 

together in such a way that they work amazingly well – something close to my heart”). The Test Kitchen has won countless South 

African and continental awards, including best restaurant at the Eat Out awards five times, and moved swiftly up the World’s Best 

Restaurants list, from 74 in 2012 to 22 in 2016 (unfortunately losing its spot in 2017 following a temporary closure to accommodate 

a redesign). And, in an unprecedented step by a South African high-end restaurant, The Test Kitchen recently took fine-dining to 

Langa in Cape Town for two pop-up charity lunches (see the story in next month’s TASTE). In a mere seven years, Luke has added The 

Shortmarket Club and The Pot Luck Club (breaking news: there’s a pop-up running from July to September at Hallmark House in the 

Maboneng Precinct in Joburg ) to his portfolio. And he now has a permanent home in Joburg at LDR at The Saxon. 

We can’t help but ask: what in the world will Luke do next? We can’t wait to find out. thetestkitchen.co.za 

Above, from left: Luke Dale-Roberts; carob mousse, roast banana butter, meringue, 

rum foam, coffee and Tanariva cremeux. Left: Tandoori lamb chops at Bukhara. 

2. 

BUKHARA 

FOR BRINGING INDIAN FINE-DINING TO SA 

Cape Town’s city centre in the mid-nineties was an unlikely place to open 

a restaurant – the area was practically empty of businesses, many of which had 

moved to the Foreshore. But Indian-born Sabi Sabarwhal wanted to share his 

passion for the food of his homeland and had identified a gap for a restaurant 

serving premium north Indian cuisine. He decided to take a chance on a space 

in Church Street and, in 1995, opened what would become one of the city’s 

longest-standing restaurants – an institution that played its part in the CBD’s 

revival. From day one, Capetonians and tourists flocked through its doors 

to feast on Punjabi cuisine – his dhal makhani is legendary – from a menu that 

has evolved to include dishes from other regions in India – always using authentic 

ingredients and techniques. The collection also includes Haiku, which opened in 

2005 to offer authentic multi-Asian cuisine (another first for Capetonians); while Del 

Mar in Camps Bay serves genuine contemporary Mexican food (a departure from 

the Tex-Mex style South Africans know and love). And to think it all started as a 

way for Sabi – a trained particle physicist with a passion for great food – to remain 

connected to his Indian roots! bukhara.com; haikurestaurant.com; delmar.restaurant

3. 

LA COLOMBE 

FOR PIONEERING 

GOURMET WINE- 

ESTATE DINING 

The Western Cape winelands 

today are renowned for 

their high-end destination 

restaurants. But it was muchloved 

French-born chef and 

cookbook author Franck 

Dangereux who led the way 

in wine-estate fine-dining 

when he joined legendary 

Constantia Uitsig chef Frank 

Swainston at the estate in 

1996 to start La Colombe. 

A gastronomic revolution 

was underway in SA and 

La Colombe won multiple 

awards in recognition of 

Franck’s cooking, which he 

described as dishes “simplified 

to the perfect combinations”. 

Luke Dale-Roberts (see #1), 

took the reins as executive 

chef in late 2006 when Franck 

left to open the more informal 

Foodbarn in Noordhoek. And 

today under Scot Kirton – 

at the restaurant’s new 

location on the picture-perfect 

Silvermist organic wine 

estate – La Colombe holds 

73rd position on 2017’s San 

Pellegrino Best Restaurants of 

the World list. Scot was also 

the Eat Out S. Pellegrino Chef 

of the Year in 2015, recognised 

for his food integrating classic 

and modern French cuisine 

with Asian influences (a 

favourite is the “tinned tuna”: 

seared tuna tataki with avo 

purée, ginger and a poached 

quail’s egg). And now, with 

his position in the Constantia 

Valley secure (Scot’s also 

making waves at Foxcroft 

at High Constantia), the 

La Colombe team has taken 

over the space at Le Quartier 

Français in Franschhoek (see 

#5) to open La Petite Colombe 

in August. lacolombe.co.za 

RESTAURANTS 

Above, from left: Springbok loin, roast fig, potato fondant, smoked onion and truffle at La Colombe; La Colombe’s new location 

at Constantia's Silvermist Estate. Below: Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse. 

4. 

CLEOPATRA MOUNTAIN FARMHOUSE 

FOR AWARD-WINNING GOURMET COUNTRY CUISINE 

Country-chic doesn’t get more spectacular than this KwaZulu-Natal gem, where Richard and Mouse 

Poynton have created an award-winning gourmet escape in the Drakensberg. Widely regarded as being 

among the originators of the country house movement in the 1980s with their much-loved Granny 

Mouse Country House, they left for a stint overseas and returned from their food-and-wine escapades 

in Europe and the UK inspired to start a gourmet destination hotel amid the peace and magnificent beauty 

of their family farm. Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse has since earned an international reputation for its fine 

country fare, including a seven-course dinner and a three-course breakfast like none you’ve ever eaten. The 

underground wine cellar specialises in South African gins, brandies and wines (including Cleopatra’s very 

own hand-crafted Copper Pot wines made under the Thorne & Daughters label by Richard’s son-in-law, 

John Seccombe). Book for dinner, or stay over to enjoy the incredible breakfast, too. cleopatramountain.com

120 

5. 

THE TASTING ROOM AT 

LE QUARTIER FRANÇAIS 

FOR PUTTING SA FOOD ON THE 

WORLD MAP 

Sometimes it takes a newcomer to offer 

a fresh perspective on produce that locals 

might regard as, well, everyday. In the case of 

SA cuisine, this newcomer came in the shape 

of Dutch-born chef Margot Janse, who joined 

the award-winning team at Le Quartier Français 

in Franschhoek as executive chef in 1995. Her 

passion for seasonal local produce and indigenous 

ingredients, combined with a playful imagination 

and experimental approach to textures, flavours 

and aromas, saw her telling stories through her 

African-inspired menu – described by some as 

a gourmet safari. “For me it has a lot to do with 

origins: the origin of an animal, what it did when it 

was alive, what it ate and where it grew up. What 

is happening on my plate has to make sense and 

reveal these origins,” she once said. “If someone 

walks away from the experience saying ‘Wow, I’ve 

learnt so much about South Africa, the people, the 

food’, then I know I have succeeded.” The world 

took note of her approach. The restaurant made 

the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2002, and 

countless local and international awards followed 

over the years. Margot left in April to pursue 

something new and there’s a fresh era ahead 

as the team from La Colombe (see #3) takes over 

at Le Quartier. leeucollection.com 

Left, clockwise from top: The Tasting Room’s Pepe Charlot 

bûche affinée, fermented turnip, linseed cracker and 

smoked honey; beetroot, buttermilk labneh, buchu and 

cucumber granita; preserved lime and onion crisps. 

6. 

Right: The duck-and-cherry 

pie at 96 Winery Road. 

GATRILE’S 

FOR BREAKING THE MOULD 

OF MODERN BISTRO FARE IN JOBURG 

The stats for Gatrile’s famous duck-and-cherry pie tell a story that 

lives on beyond the 2003 closure of this popular Joburg restaurant. 

Established in Joubert Park in the mid-seventies, it moved to 

Sandown in 1988 and reportedly sold more than 250 000 pies, using 

22 tons of duck and 12 tons of cherries. A legendary pie like that 

can never die (think rich duck meat, sweet-tart cherries in Port 

sauce under crispy puff pastry) and it lives on at 96 Winery Road 

in Somerset West, which was started 21 years ago by Gatrile’s 

co-founder Ken Forrester (the maker of some of SA’s finest Chenin 

Blancs). A look at some of the earlier menus from Gatrile’s tells quite 

a tale, too: the popular Kate and Sydney (steak-and-kidney) pie set 

diners back a whopping R2.55 and lobster cost all of R5. And the 

famous crème brûlée? Well, that also made its way down south 

to 96 Winery Road. The recipe remains the same (why change 

what’s perfect?). The price, of course, has kept up with inflation. 

But it’s so worth it. 96wineryroad.co.za; kenforresterwines.com

RESTAURANTS 

7. 

8. 

Above, from left: Andrea Burgener; cilbir – poached eggs with garlic yoghurt and paprika sage butter. 

Below, from left: Reuben Riffel; Reuben’s at the One&Only hotel at Cape Town’s V&A Waterfront. 

REUBEN’S RESTAURANT AND BAR 

FOR CREATING A SOPHISTICATED BRASSERIE IN THE WINELANDS 

When Reuben Riffel won both the Eat Out Johnnie Walker Restaurant of the Year and Chef of the Year 

awards in 2004 not long after opening his first restaurant at 19 Huguenot Street in Franschhoek, it 

affirmed that a culinary star had been born in the valley. And this despite Reuben’s humble beginnings in 

the nearby suburb of Groendal, as well as his lack of formal chef training. It was as a waiter at Chamonix 

under Christoph Dehosse that Reuben learnt the art of food preparation (he later became sous chef 

under Richard Carstens). A stint overseas followed, and the next step was an eatery to call his own. 

For well over a decade, loyal patrons flocked to the flagship restaurant (he also has branches at the 

One&Only hotel in the V&A Waterfront and Abalone House in Paternoster) for the likes of steak and 

frites with sauce Béarnaise, chilli-salted squid and Szechuan duck pie, and a host of popular chalkboard 

specials. After closing at 19 Huguenot Street in May this year, the MasterChef SA judge and TV celeb 

recently opened at a brand-new space at 2 Daniel Hugo Road, where signature dishes include springbok 

steak with butternut honey, bacon candy, walnuts and pickled cabbage, and pork belly with fynbos 

honey, pineapple atchar and sweet potato. reubens.co.za 

THE LEOPARD 

FOR CHAMPIONING 

FREE-RANGE 

INGREDIENTS 

IN JOBURG 

“Food producers of the world 

unite! We’re always looking to 

meet producers of well-farmed 

and ethically reared produce. 

If you know someone who’s 

got the happiest, healthiest 

pigs running around, let us 

know.” This request on The 

Leopard’s website says it all. 

Before closing in Melville in May 

this year, Andrea Burgener’s 

restaurant (Joburg diners will 

also remember her early days at 

Superbonbon in Richmond and 

Deluxe in Parktown North) was 

renowned for supporting the 

likes of Braeside Butchery and 

The Free Range Food Co. on a 

small, adventurous menu. She's 

always attributed her creative 

approach to the fact that she 

never went to chef school. 

“I never knew I was breaking 

rules – I didn’t know what the 

rules were!” The Leopard has 

now changed its format and 

location: no longer a sit-down 

restaurant, it’s a free-range 

larder and takeaway venue 

(rillettes, chop-chop salads), 

as well as a great stop-off for 

top-quality, ready-to-heat 

and cook-at-home dishes 

(marinated pork ribs, chicken 

and leek pie) situated at 44 

Stanley. leopardfoodcompany.com 

91

9. 

120 

CARNE SA 

FOR PIONEERING THE FINE-DINING STEAKHOUSE IN SA 

Award-winning chef-proprietor Giorgio Nava’s name is synonymous with the 

celebration of premium-quality meat cooked to perfection. For the past nine years, 

Capetonians have enjoyed the very best beef, lamb and venison at his flagship 

fine-dining steakhouse in Keerom Street, just a stone’s throw from the Cape Town 

High Court. With signature dishes such as the 1.2 kg La Florentina T-bone (definitely 

intended to share – as long as you agree on how you like your meat done!), and the 

likes of bresaola with lemon juice and olive oil, and Karoo lamb with sautéed spinach, 

carnivores are truly spoilt for choice. Here, and at the newer branch on Kloof Street, 

patrons can rely on staff to be well-informed about everything from where the animal 

was raised, to ageing techniques and the flavour of the meat. This attention to detail 

saw Carne SA winning the Eat Out DStv Food Network Restaurant Award for Best 

Steakhouse in SA in 2014. (Giorgio’s Italian fine-dining restaurant, 

95 Keerom, took the award for Best Italian Restaurant in 2013). So when 

you come to Keerom Street, come hungry! carne-sa.com 

Carne SA 

10. 

WILLOUGHBY AND CO. 

FOR MAKING AUTHENTIC 

SUSHI ACCESSIBLE 

Queuing in a mall? For sushi? Well 

yes, for 21 years Capetonians (who, 

let’s face it, are spoilt for choice when 

it comes to restaurants with views), 

have willingly been doing exactly 

that for sushi chef Sammy's famous 

creations. Since opening in the 

Victoria Wharf at the V&A Waterfront 

in 1996, Willoughby’s (as it’s fondly 

known to devotees) has consistently 

created new mouthwatering seafood 

platters and fusion-style Japanese 

cuisine, but it’s the sushi that has 

locals and tourists standing in line 

(there’s a no-reservations policy – but 

you are welcome to sip a glass of 

wine while you wait). You won’t regret 

the chance to build up an appetite for 

the chilli-seared tuna sashimi and 

Rainbow Reloaded rolls dressed with 

soya sauce, seven spice and sesame 

oil. willoughbyandco.co.za

RESTAURANTS 

Emily’s 

Linger Longer 

PORTRAITS JAC DE VILLIERS, STEPHEN INGGS, MICHAEL LE GRANGE AND ADRIAAN OOSTHUIZEN 

EXTRA SOURCES EATOUT.CO.ZA; JOBURG.ORG.ZA; 10AND5.COM; TIMESLIVE.CO.ZA; DESIGNINDABA.CO.ZA; MG.CO.ZA 

GONE BUT NEVER 

FORGOTTEN 

These four institutions – open for decades 

before finally closing their doors – will never 

be forgotten by the generations lucky enough 

to dine at one of their tables 

EMILY'S The legendary Peter Veldsman 

served his signature heritage food to 

Capetonians for 23 years, from the early 

nineties in Woodstock, to a new location 

in the Waterfront and then Kloof Street 

in Gardens. It finally closed its doors 

in 2015 when Peter chose to retire. 

GRAMADOELAS Famed for giving 

a platform to local cuisine and later dishes 

from the rest of Africa, this institution 

opened in 1967 in Hillbrow before moving 

to Joubert Park and finally the Market 

Theatre in Newtown. Founders Eduan 

Naude and the late Brian Shalkoff were 

honoured with the Lannice Snyman Lifetime 

Achievement Award at the 2014 Eat Out 

Mercedes-Benz Restaurant Awards, following 

the restaurant’s closure in 2013. 

LINGER LONGER A much-loved 

Sandton special-occasions restaurant where 

the late Walter Ulz was chef-patron for more 

than 30 years. We’ll never forget the apricotglazed 

duck and that crème brûlée. Walter 

was awarded the Lannice Snyman Lifetime 

Achievement Award at the 2010 Eat Out 

Restaurant Awards. 

THE THREE SHIPS This premier Joburg 

restaurant was located at the five-star 

Carlton Hotel in the CBD in the eighties and 

hosted international politicians and celebs. 

The Carlton venue has been closed since 

the late nineties, but was a prime example 

of hotel dining in its heyday. It moved to 

Gold Reef City in the 2000s, but it’s the 

original that regulars remember. 

THE PIONEERS 

A comprehensive list of trailblazers in the local food and hospitality industry would fill all the pages of this mag, 

but these four are people who deserve a mention right now 

THE FORAGER: 

KOBUS VAN 

DER MERWE 

The foraging West Coast 

chef put Strandveld 

ingredients on the map, 

originally at his family 

restaurant Oep ve Koep in 

Paternoster and now on 

the seasonal tasting menu 

at recently opened Wolfgat. 

wolfgat.co.za 

THE BAKER: 

MARKUS FARBINGER 

Artisanal loaves are a dime 

a baker’s dozen these days 

but this baker paved the 

way at Knysna’s Île de Pain. 

Markus built the first woodfired 

oven for baking bread 

in SA and his rustic breads 

produced through slow 

fermentation are the stuff 

of legend. iledepain.co.za 

THE COUNTRY VILLAGE 

RESTAURATEURS: 

PETER AND MARIANA 

ESTERHUIZEN 

For the past two decades, 

Mariana’s in Stanford has been 

renowned for its country-style 

home cooking using seasonal 

ingredients from the on-site 

garden. Book well in advance. 

stanfordvillage.co.za/homedeli-bistro/ 

THE HOTELIER: 

LIZ MCGRATH 

Mrs M changed hotel finedining 

in South Africa with 

her iconic hotel collection 

(The Marine, The Plettenberg 

and The Cellars-Hohenort), 

where the restaurants are 

currently headed up by 

award-winning executive 

chef Peter Tempelhoff. 

collectionmcgrath.com 

93

NEW COOKBOOK 

MASTERS OF 

All hungry travellers know that the best way to connect 

with a new culture is to join the throngs at the sidewalk stalls 

and festival food trucks of the world. But when all you want is tamales 

in Mexico City or hot dogs in NYC and the exchange rate won’t play 

ball, the recipes in the new MasterChef: Street Food of the World 

cookbook will satisfy your wanderlust (and your taste buds) at home 

STREETFOOD 

PHOTOGRAPHS DAVID LOFTUS 

TEXT GENEVIEVE TAYLOR

BIKSEMAD 

Upgrade it by adding cubes of fried bacon, slices 

of fried sausage or home-made Béarnaise sauce.

NEW COOKBOOK 

96 

BIKSEMAD 

“ Biksemad is a traditional Danish dish created 

from leftover meat and boiled potatoes – 

typically meat from a beef or pork roast – and 

served with fried eggs, pickled vegetables 

and condiments such as ketchup, HP sauce 

and Worcestershire sauce. Traditionally, the 

dish is made by cutting meat and potatoes 

into bite-sized cubes and frying them with 

onions before serving, but I prefer to cook 

the ingredients individually and combine 

them afterwards.” – Anders Halskov-Jensen, 

MasterChef Denmark 2015 champion 

Serves 4 

EASY 

GREAT VALUE 



olive oil 2 T 

boiled and cooled potatoes 

600 g, cut into 2–3 cm cubes 


to taste 

butter 50 g 

onions 200 g, thinly sliced 

cooked cold roast pork or beef 

400 g, cut into 2–3 cm cubes 

fresh thyme 

free-range eggs 4, fried 

1 Place the oil in a frying pan over a high 

heat and fry the potato cubes until they have 

a nice golden crust. Season with salt and 

pepper and set aside. 2 Place half the butter 

in the pan and fry the onions over a medium 

heat until they soften and start to brown 

a little. The idea is to bring out the sweetness 

in the onions without frying too much. Set 

aside. 3 Fry the meat gently in the remaining 

butter. Since the meat is already cooked, 

it should just be warmed through. Add the 

potatoes and the onions, mix everything 

together and season with thyme leaves and 

salt and pepper, to taste. 4 Serve the biksemad 

with 1 fried egg per person with condiments 

and pickled vegetables such as beetroot and 

gherkins. If you can get it, Danish rye bread 

with butter is a nice side dish. 


WINE: Kleine Zalze Cellar Selection 

Cinsault 2016 

PAV BHAJI 

“Said to have originated as a cheap fast food 

for the mill workers of Mumbai in the midnineteenth 

century, this simply translates as 

“bread” (pav, a soft white roll) and “mashed 

vegetables” (bhaji). However, the generous 

quantity of butter, along with the exquisite spice 

blend, elevates this dish beyond the humble. 

The spice blend makes double the quantity 

needed for the recipe; store it in an airtight 

container for 3–4 weeks and use in place 

of garam masala.” – Genevieve Taylor 

Serves 4 to 6 

EASY 

GREAT VALUE 


Cooking: 1 hour 

For the pav masala spice blend: 

dried Kashmiri chillies (or dried 

red chillies) 5 

coriander seeds 4 T 

cumin seeds 2 T 

black peppercorns 1 T 

fennel seeds 1 T 

cloves 8 

black or green cardamom 2 pods 

amchur (dry mango) powder 1 T 

(or 6 t lemon juice) 

potatoes 400 g, peeled and cut into 

1 cm cubes 

butternut 400 g, peeled and cut into 

1 cm cubes 


unsalted butter 75 g 

medium red onion 1, finely chopped, 

plus an extra ½ red onion, thinly sliced, 

to garnish 

green chillies 2, chopped 

fresh ginger 1 x 25 g piece, grated 


tomatoes 400 g, finely chopped 

soft white rolls 6, halved and buttered 

salt, to taste 

chopped coriander, to garnish 

lemon wedges, to serve 

1 To make the spice blend, place all the 

ingredients except the amchur powder 

or lemon juice in a dry pan over a medium 

heat. Toast for a minute or two, until a deep, 

toasty aroma rises from the pan. Tip into a 

spice mill or pestle and mortar and grind to 

a powder, then transfer to a bowl and stir 

through the amchur powder or lemon juice 

while the spices are still warm. Set aside. 

2 Place the potato and butternut in 

a saucepan and cover generously with 

boiling water. Place over a high heat, bring 

to the boil and cook until tender, around 

15 minutes. Drain well and set aside. 

3 Place the cumin seeds in a saucepan over 

a medium heat and toast for 1 minute. Once 

you can smell their aroma wafting up from 

the pan, add the butter and allow it to sizzle 

and melt, then add the red onion and cook, 

stirring often, for 10 minutes. 4 Stir through 

the chilli, ginger and garlic and fry for a 

further 5 minutes, then add the tomatoes 

and 3 T pav masala spice mix. Fry for a 

further 5 minutes until thick and fragrant, 

then add the cooked potato and butternut 

with 1½ cups water. Simmer steadily for 20 

minutes until thick and rich, mashing with 

a potato masher as it cooks. Season to taste 

with salt. 5 Heat a large frying pan until hot 

and toast the rolls, butter side down, until 

crisp. Spoon the bhaji into bowls, scatter 

over the red onion slices and coriander and 

serve with a wedge of lemon to squeeze 

over and a roll to dunk in and scoop it up. 

DAIRY-FREE 

WINE: Villiera Jasmine 2016 

DAIGAKU IMO 

“ Daigaku imo is a classic Japanese dish that 

literally means ‘university potato’, because 

its inexpensive but wholesome and calorific 

ingredients have made it a perennial favourite 

among cash-strapped students.” – Tim 

Anderson MasterChef UK 2011 champion 

Serves 2 to 4 

EASY 

GREAT VALUE 

Preparation: 15 minutes, plus 30 minutes’ 

soaking time 


sweet potatoes (ideally the purpleskinned, 

yellow-fleshed variety) 1 large 

or 2 small 

vegetable oil 3 T 

caster sugar 5 T 

soya sauce ¼ t 

lime 1, zested, plus the juice of ½ lime 

black sesame seeds 1 t 

1 Wash the sweet potato thoroughly (don’t 

peel it) and cut it into irregular wedges no 

larger than 3 cm thick. Soak the wedges in 

cold water for 20–30 minutes to remove the 

excess starch, then dry completely using 

kitchen paper or a clean tea towel. 2 Place 

the oil, sugar, soya sauce, lime zest and juice 

in a deep frying pan over a low heat and stir. 

Add the potatoes to the pan, toss to coat 

in the sugar mixture, and increase the heat 

to medium. 3 Place a lid on the pan and 

leave to heat until you hear it sizzling. Turn 

the heat down to medium-low and cook 

for a further 2–3 minutes, then remove the 

lid and cook for another 10 minutes or so, 

turning the potatoes frequently to ensure 

they brown lightly on all sides. The potatoes 

are done when you can pierce them easily 

with a chopstick or butter knife. 4 When the

PAV BHAJI 

97

NEW COOKBOOK 

The flavour is sweet, but not overly so, which means it can 

be enjoyed both as a dessert or as an afternoon snack. 

DAIGAKU IMO

THE GATSBY 

99

NEW COOKBOOK 

100 

potatoes are tender and browned, turn off 

the heat and stir through the sesame seeds. 

Cool slightly, then enjoy on its own or with 

vanilla ice cream. 

DAIRY-FREE, MEAT-FREE 

WINE: Woolworths Nitida Sauvignon 

Blanc-Semillon 2016 

THE GATSBY 

“Meet the amazing South African gatsby – 

an Indian-spiced barbequed steak, chip and 

cheese concoction, all squished into a long 

baguette made for sharing. I’ve made this 

with a home-made fragrant spice powder for 

maximum taste, but if you need to eat fast use 

ready-made garam masala.” – Genevieve Taylor 

Serves 4 (depending on hunger!) 

EASY 

GREAT VALUE 

Preparation: 20 minutes, plus 1 hour’s 

marinating time 


For the garam masala: 


coriander seeds 1 T 

fennel seeds 1 t 

celery seeds 1 t 

black peppercorns 1 t 

ground turmeric 1 t 


beef skirt steak or sirloin 500 g 

baguette 1 (50–60 cm long), sliced 

through, but with top and bottom 

still hinged together 

oven fries 250 g 

extra mature Cheddar 2 handfuls grated 

(about 150 g) 

sea salt flakes, to taste 

1 To make the garam masala, place the 

cumin, coriander, fennel and celery seeds 

and peppercorns in a small frying pan over 

a medium-high heat to toast. As soon as you 

can smell their aroma wafting up from the 

pan, turn off the heat and tip into a spice mill 

or pestle and mortar. Add the turmeric and 

grind to a powder. 2 Brush the vegetable oil 

over both sides of the steak and sprinkle over 

1–2 T garam masala, rubbing it in well. Set 

aside to marinate at room temperature for 

30 minutes to an hour. Sprinkle a little 

sea salt over both sides of the steak just 

before grilling. 3 Fire up your barbeque 

if you prefer. Once hot, grill the steak to your 

liking – about 3 minutes each side for a 

medium-rare, depending on the thickness. 

4 Once the steak is cooked, transfer to a 

plate, cover loosely with foil and leave to rest 

for 10 minutes. Slice into thin strips across 

the grain for maximum tenderness and 

spread out along the length of the opened 

baguette. Sprinkle over the hot chips and 

cheese, season and hinge the baguette 

shut, squeezing together as best you can. 

Slice into chunks and tuck in while hot. 

WINE: Le Riche Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 

JERK CHICKEN, 

RICE AND PEAS 

“Jerk chicken is always cooked outside, often in 

old oil barrels converted to grills, and it’s always 

served with rice and peas – although the ‘peas’ 

are actually black beans. This is a recipe to save 

for a barbeque as it just won’t taste the same 

if cooked in the oven.” – Genevieve Taylor 

Serves 6 

EASY 

GREAT VALUE 

Preparation: 30 minutes, plus overnight 

marinating time 


For the jerk spice paste: 

fresh ginger 1 x 4 cm piece, finely grated 


Scotch bonnet chillies 2, finely chopped 

(seeds removed for less heat) 


ground allspice 2 T 

ground cinnamon 2 T 

paprika 2 T 

dried thyme 2 T 

soft brown sugar 2 T 


to taste 

large free-range chicken legs 6 

rice 300 g 

coconut milk 1 x 400ml can 

allspice berries 1 t, bruised 

(or ½ t ground allspice) 

dried thyme 1 T 

dried oregano 1 t 

chilli flakes 1 t 

black beans 1 x 400 g can, drained 


to taste 

lime 1, cut into wedges 

1 To make the jerk spice paste, place the 

ginger, garlic, chillies and oil in a small bowl 

and stir to combine. Add the remaining 

ingredients and stir well. Rub the spice paste 

all over the chicken legs – you may want to 

wear gloves for this as the chillies are mighty 

hot! Cover and marinate in the fridge for 

2 hours, or preferably overnight. 2 When 

you are ready to cook the chicken, light the 

barbeque. If you’re using a gas barbeque, 

fire up one side to get it really hot; if you’re 

using charcoal, heap the coals to one 

side to give you a hot side and a cool side. 

3 Place the chicken on the hot side and cook 

for 10–15 minutes, turning regularly, until 

lightly charred all over. Move to the cool side 

of the grill and shut the lid. Leave for 20–30 

minutes, until cooked through, turning 

occasionally – the cooking time depends on 

the temperature of the grill and the size of 

the chicken legs. It’s better to cook low and 

slow than end up with a charred outside and 

a raw inside. 4 Place the rice in a mediumsized 

saucepan with a snug-fitting lid. Pour in 

the coconut milk and ¾ cup water and add 

the allspice, thyme, oregano and chilli. Stir 

well and soak for 30 minutes. 5 Stir the black 

beans through the rice and place over a 

medium heat. Bring to the boil, clamp on the 

lid and boil for 1 minute. Turn off the heat 

but do not remove the lid. Allow to steam 

for 13 minutes. Remove the lid and fluff with 

a fork. Season to taste. Serve the chicken 

with the rice and peas and lime wedges. 

DAIRY-FREE, WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE 

WINE: Bellingham The Bernard Series 

Chenin Blanc 2016 

WIN A COPY 

In MasterChef Street Food of the World, 

British food writer and TV presenter Genevieve 

Taylor teamed up with 13 MasterChef 

champions, including Adam Liaw, to collect 

mouthwatering recipes from the Americas, 

Europe, the Middle East and Africa, the Indian 

subcontinent, Asia and Australia. Dishes range 

from the familiar (classic British fish ‘n’ chips) to 

the surprising (midye dolma – spicy rice-stuffed 

mussels from Turkey). To win one of two copies 

(R660 each, Absolute Press, available at all 

good book stores), turn to page 126 for SMS 

entry instructions or enter at taste.co.za. 

Keyword: MasterChef. 

THIS EXTRACT HAS BEEN TAKEN FROM MASTERCHEF STREET FOOD OF THE WORLD BY GENEVIEVE TAYLOR, PUBLISHED BY ABSOLUTE PRESS TEXT © GENEVIEVE TAYLOR, 2017 PHOTOGRAPHY © DAVID LOFTUS, 2017

Great for a winter braai! Start it several hours before you want to eat, or even the day before, to give the chicken time to marinate. 

101 

JERK CHICKEN, RICE AND PEAS

TALENT & TERROIR 

OUR WINE CELEBRATES THE WINEMAKER WHO HAS DEDICATED HIS TIME TO PERFECTING 

A SPECIAL VARIETAL 

Unlocking the gifts of nature to better understand the terroir, producing a varietal even more exceptional than the previous vintages. 

Through this pursuit of perfection, the winemaker demonstrates what nature can achieve: a creation he can be proud to call his own. 

www.bolandcellar.co.za 

info@bolandkelder.co.za 

021 862 6190 

facebook.com/BolandCellar 

@BolandCellar 

#BetterTogether

FLIGHTS OF 

FLAVOUR 

Got a craving for the Champagne of Spanish ham, the best doughnuts in the 

world, or an incredible bowl of ramen in an unexpected place? These are just 

a few of the mouthwatering dishes and authentic ingredients your next holiday 

itinerary must include

TRAVEL 

JAMÓN 

JAMÓN! 

The area around the Spanish 

town of Guijuelo has produced 

delicately flavoured jamon 

Iberico de bellota for centuries. 

NARINA EXELBY took a road 

trip from Madrid to find out 

why it’s so highly prized by 

the world’s chefs 

PHOTOGRAPHS AND TEXT 

NARINA EXELBY 

104 

“HOW DO YOU SAY, ‘Can I please 

have a Parma ham sandwich?’ in Spanish?” 

I asked my partner, Mark, as we drove west 

across Spain from Madrid towards Portugal. 

He threw me a worried look. “Don’t even 

joke,” he cautioned. “That’s like asking for 

Italian wine in Stellenbosch. They might 

throw us out of town.” 

In Guijuelo, where we’re headed, 

ham is serious business. While it’s been 

produced here since the Middle Ages, over 

the past 100 years or so the industry has 

exploded and now drives the economy 

of the region. There are odes to pigs and 

ham everywhere you look, from statues 

to posters, hand-painted signs to fridge 

“IT’S THE ACORNS 

OF HOLM OAK AND 

CORK TREES THAT 

FORM THE PRIMARY 

DIET FOR IBERIAN 

PIGS, GIVING THEIR 

MEAT A DELICATE 

NUTTY FLAVOUR” 

magnets and keyrings; and behind the 

counter of almost every bar and café hang 

plump, black-hooved hams. Black, because 

one of the hams this town produces is the 

sweet, delicately nutty-flavoured jamón 

Ibérico de bellota – the Champagne of 

Spanish ham – that can fetch more 

than 1 000 euros apiece, and the reason 

for our road trip. 

Locals will tell you it’s patience that 

makes this ham so special. They’re partly 

right – it can take four or five years to 

produce – but it also comes down to this: 

the intricate relationship between the 

black Iberian pig, the climate and the wild 

woodland of ancient Spain. 

JAMÓN IBÉRICO, OR IBERIAN HAM, 

comes from pigs that are at least 75% 

Iberian breed, a rare variety found only on 

the Iberian Peninsula, and mostly along 

the western fringe of Spain. Iberian pigs 

have the capacity to store fat within muscle 

tissue – and it’s this fat that makes the ham 

so tasty. Also, this breed’s ability to pack on 

epidermal fat means the ham can be cured 

for much longer than others, allowing 

the characteristic sweet, intense flavour 

of jamón Ibérico to develop fully. 

Guijuelo is where the ham is produced, 

not where the pigs are farmed, so to find 

the dehesa we drove even further west, 

searching for oak trees. Dehesa are the 

wild, natural ancient foraging grounds for 

Iberian pigs, and they provide the crucial 

ingredient for jamón Ibérico de bellota. 

“Bellota” means acorn, and it’s the acorns 

of holm oak and cork trees that form the 

primary diet for Iberian pigs, giving their 

meat a delicate nutty flavour. 

Vincente Martin Perez’s family has 

farmed Ibérico pigs for decades, and his 

land close to the Portuguese border is 

more like a luxury getaway for the animals 

than a pig farm. Here, Ibérico pigs roam 

PHOTOGRAPHS (OPENING SPREAD) 

MARTINA GARDINER, GETTY IMAGES 

EXTRA SOURCES JAMON.COM

TRAVEL 

WHET YOUR APPETITE 

A matcha doughnut moment in Manhattan, a crêpe 

escape in Paris and a gourmet kale salad in New York… 

six food-obsessed travellers reveal the dish they would 

board a plane for right now 

Clockwise 

from top 

left: Peanut 

butter and 

banana cream; 

cinnamon 

sugar, 

strawberry 

and cream, 

coconut 

cream. 

Clockwise from top left: Cafés and delis with hams 

painted on them are everywhere in Guijuelo; ham is 

best served at room temperature to allow the oils to 

release their flavour into the meat; odes to pigs are 

found in the streets; queuing for the Champagne 

of Spanish ham; jamón Iberico is sliced paperthin. 

freely, feasting on the acorns that drop 

to the ground during the montanera, 

the acorn season, between October 

and December each year. 

“When our pigs weigh 80 kg they’re 

set free into the dehesa,” explained Martin 

as his pigs snorted and foraged around us. 

“During the montanera each animal eats up 

to 10 kg of acorns a day, putting on 800 g 

DOUGHNUTS 

IN MANHATTAN 

“Doughnuts have always 

been my guilty pleasure 

and, wherever I go in 

the world, I have to try the best. 

So when my plane ticket to NYC 

landed in my hands last year, I had 

a sugar rush just thinking about 

Doughnut Plant, which had been 

on my must-visit list forever. 

On our first day my brother-inlaw, 

who is a chef in the city (lucky 

me), took our family on a foodie 

walk – we munched on steamed 

buns while exploring Chinatown, 

slices of crack pie at Momufuku 

and pickles picked up at Katz’s 

Delicatessen. And then … dessert 

on the Lower East Side. 

Nothing I’d heard had prepared 

me for the mouthwatering gems 

in the glass display cabinet at 

Doughnut Plant. There were round 

doughnuts, square doughnuts, 

some oozing home-made jams 

and custards, others inspired by 

crème brulée with a caramelised, 

crisp golden crust. 

These babies are handcrafted 

every day using ingredients that 

are as natural and organic as 

possible – a happy thought 

when you’re about to bite into 

round two! 

We ordered ten (I blame my 

sons), including the iconic tres 

leches, blueberry-glazed, coconut 

and lime, matcha tea, peanut 

butter and banana, and cinnamon 

sugar doughnuts, all wrapped up 

in a twist of brown paper. 

The featherlight texture and 

heady flavour of yeast sent me 

into a state of sweet utopia. 

I went on to devour many other 

doughnuts on that trip but these 

were simply unforgettable.” 

– Abigail Donnelly, TASTE food editor; 

doughnutplant.com 

“THE FEATHERLIGHT TEXTURE 

AND HEADY FLAVOUR OF YEAST SENT 

ME INTO A STATE OF SWEET UTOPIA”

TRAVEL 

106 

Above, from left: Iberian pigs roam free in the dehesa, where they forage on the acorns of holm oak and cork trees removed from the trees by the vareado using a long stick; 

jamón is literally everywhere in Guijuelo – the town is definitely proud of its heritage. 

GOURMET KALE 

SALAD ON A US 

ROAD TRIP 

“Every week seems to 

bring a new health fad 

or superfood these days. Case in 

point: kale – that ubiquitous leafy 

green powerhouse and elixir of life for 

all who are fending off Old Man Time. 

Of course this frilliest of veggies has 

been around for millennia as a staple 

in the Mediterranean but, as is the 

wont of contemporary culture, we’ve 

only recently started catching on to 

its benefits, including a potent mix 

of antioxidant, anti-inflammatory 

and nutrient-dense properties. 

On a recent rip-roaring road trip in 

the USA, I was treated to what turned 

out to be a surprising kale trifecta 

served in a gourmet context – not 

a green juice or smoothie in sight 

(oh, the relief!). Soho House in Malibu, 

a celebrity haunt known for its Pacific 

panorama and faultless food, offered 

up a curly kale, red walnut, apple, 

radish, sprout, ginger and miso 

salad, which set the bar for what 

was to be my slow, yet complete, 

kale conversion. 

The American west coast is the 

home of celeb-endorsed health food 

crazes that sweep the globe, and 

maverick self-taught chef Travis Lett 

of Gjelina (right) in Venice Beach, 

Los Angeles – the next stop on my 

journey – is a dedicated disciple of 

all things organic. When confronted 

with his perfectly plated Tuscan 

kale, shaved fennel and ricotta salad 

with breadcrumbs, I was rendered 

defenseless against this humble 

green and its myriad culinary 

interpretations. 

Hitting the final home run, Il Buco 

in New York City presented a timeless 

Mediterranean tribute in the form of 

a cavolo nero Tuscan black kale, 

garlic-anchovy-lemon vinaigrette, 

house-made filone croutons and 

Parmigiano Reggiano salad that 

proved to be the crowning glory 

on my kale campaign trail for 2017. 

Conversion well and truly completed.” 

– Seth Shezi, independent content creator 

sohohouse.com; gjelina.com; ilbuco.com 

“A MOREISH CURLY 

KALE, RED WALNUT, 

APPLE, RADISH, 

SPROUT, GINGER 

AND MISO SALAD SET 

THE BAR FOR WHAT 

WAS TO BE MY SLOW, 

YET COMPLETE KALE 

CONVERSION”

TRAVEL 

PHOTOGRAPH ART GRAY 

in 24 hours.” Because the pigs are free 

to roam, oil from the acorns works 

its way through the animals’ bodies, 

marbling the meat. 

Pockets of dehesa are what’s left of a vast 

Mediterranean forest that once stretched 

across southwestern Spain and, along 

with the pigs, they are home to fighting 

bulls, Merino sheep, foxes, deer, wild 

“NEARLY 

EVERYWHERE YOU 

LOOK THERE ARE 

ODES TO PIGS: 

STATUES OF PIGS, 

POSTERS OF HAMS, 

HAND-PAINTED HAM 

SIGNS, PIG FRIDGE 

MAGNETS AND 

KEYRINGS” 

boar and lynx, all of which contribute to 

the maintenance of a unique ecosystem. 

As long as there is a demand for jamón 

Ibérico de bellota, the remaining dehesa will 

be preserved because having terrain that 

contains both holm oak and cork trees 

is vital to the production of “acorn ham”: 

the cork trees drop their acorns after the 

holms do, extending the montanera for 

the pigs. Wild mushrooms and aromatic 

plants such as rosemary and thyme add to 

the pigs’ balanced diet. At the end of the 

montanera, once the pigs have more than 

doubled their weight, they’re transported 

to Guijuelo for slaughter, or what the 

Spanish respectfully call el sacraficio. 

GUIJUELO IS AT THE CROSSROADS 

of medieval trade routes, a busy little 

town with an industrial feel and curing 

“warehouses” scattered around the 

outskirts. Close to the centre is the head 

office for Denominación de Origen Guijuelo, 

the regulatory body that oversees quality 

control of certified Ibérico products from 

Guijuelo. It was here that veterinarian 

Fermin Sanchez talked us through the 

intricate certification and production 

processes. When Spanish people buy jamón 

and want the absolute top quality, they’ll 

often ask for pata negra – with black feet 

– because most Iberian pigs have black 

hooves, which remain on the ham during 

the curing process. At the Denominacion 

de Origen Guijuelo, achieving a mark of 

quality is not simple. Certified hams are 

graded either black (the ultimate), red 

or green, and these grades are determined 

by stringent monitoring of breeding 

practices, feeding strategies, the quality 

of the dehesa and the curing process. 

The village is 1 000 metres above sea 

level and the winters up here are cold, 

dry and windy. “This climate is perfect 

for curing,” explained Antonio Gómez 

Robles, whose family founded Patabrava, 

Guijuelo’s first modern curing plant, in 

1886. “Because of the climate, less salt 

is needed and the hams can dry for longer 

than other hams, allowing the flavour 

to intensify.” 

The details of the process are a closely 

guarded secret but Antonio will say this: 

the hams are salted for about one day for 

every kilogram they weigh. They are then 

washed and hung to cure for up to a year 

in rooms that are ventilated naturally; after 

that they’re stored in an underground cellar 

for another two years. “We could fastforward 

with force-fed pigs and artificial 

chilling rooms, but the final product would 

never live up to the quality of traditional 

methods,” Antonio says. 

At the end of a four- to five-year 

process, you have a leg of ham that is 

regarded as the finest in the world. Sliced 

into pieces thinner than a page of this 

magazine, served at room temperature to 

bring out the full flavour of the oil, and 

enjoyed with a glass of red wine, the sweet 

melt-in-your-mouth nuttiness of jamón 

Ibérico del ballota really is a taste of history. 

So what is 

jamón Serrano? 

This is also a dry-cured Spanish 

ham but it’s made from several 

breeds of white pig, rather than 

black. It has TSG (traditional 

specialities guaranteed) status, 

certifying that it has specific 

characteristics that differentiate 

it from all others in its category, 

and that its raw materials, 

composition or method of 

production have been consistent 

for a minimum of 30 years. You’ll 

find jamón Serrano (mountain 

ham) at selected Woolies stores. 

(Woolworths sources 90% of its 

food products from South Africa 

and Africa and sources only 

a small percentage of authentic 

ingredients from other parts 

of the world.) 

VEGETARIAN 

FARE IN ZURICH 

“I’m not a fan of buffetstyle 

anything – and 

am these days more of 

a flexitarian – but for Hiltl, I make 

an exception. As a vegetarian 

living in Zurich and speaking 

barely a word of German, Hiltl 

was a haven: endless fresh, tasty, 

creative veggie options in an 

expat-friendly environment, 

thanks to its location in the heart 

of the city’s banking district (also: 

men in suits). The land of cheese 

and chocolate is hardly known 

for its gourmet food and like 

most of its European neighbours, 

is partial to a bit of meat (it 

took me a while to get over the 

fillets of horse right next to the 

beef in the grocery store). So, 

you might be surprised to learn 

that Switzerland is home to the 

world’s oldest fully vegetarian 

restaurant – Hiltl has been 

around since 1898 and even has 

a veggie ‘butcher’. 119 years later, 

there are several branches 

and they’re always full. I think 

I ate from the buffet every week 

for almost 10 years. Which is 

probably also why I didn’t get 

rich earning Swiss francs – a plate 

piled high can cost around 25– 

30 CHF depending on weight, 

which is, um, upward of R330. 

Time to start saving for my next 

visit!” – Lee-Anne Spurdens, TASTE 

assistant editor; hiltl.ch 

“HILTL WAS A 

HAVEN: ENDLESS 

FRESH, TASTY, 

CREATIVE VEGGIE 

OPTIONS IN AN 

EXPAT–FRIENDLY 

ENVIRONMENT”

TRAVEL 

108 

GALETTES 

ON A PARISIAN 

PAVEMENT 

“If I could fly in a time 

machine instead of 

a plane, I’d travel to 7 October 

2015, just after 1 pm, to a 

restaurant in Paris called Crêperie 

Beaubourg. Here, my brand-new 

husband of four days, Jan, and 

I were sitting at a tiny pavement 

table, grinning like idiots while 

devouring our respective 

galettes – pancakes made with 

buckwheat flour, eggs, milk, salt 

and rum, folded into a signature 

square shape around savoury 

fillings. Jan had the compléte, 

filled with ham and cheese and 

topped with a fried egg, while 

I had the celte, filled with crispy 

lardons, onions, mushrooms, 

cheese and cream. Washed down 

with cider, and followed by crêpes 

sucrette (sweet pancakes), it’s 

easily the best meal I’ve ever 

had. But, then again, I’m biased.” 

– Annette Klinger, TASTE features 

writer; creperiebeaubourg.com 

THE KING 

OF CHEESES 

Time, patience and 

craftsmanship are 

required to craft 

a perfect wheel 

of Parmesan. 

On her travels through Emilia-Romagna, NIKKI WERNER 

discovered why making Parmigiano Reggiano is both a calling and 

a lifelong commitment for the region’s artisanal cheesemakers 

PHOTOGRAPHS BRANDON DE KOCK TEXT NIKKI WERNER 

“WASHED DOWN 

WITH CIDER, 

AND FOLLOWED 

BY CRÊPES 

SUCRETTE, 

IT’S EASILY THE 

BEST MEAL I’VE 

EVER HAD” 

IN THE NORTHERN ITALIAN 

PROVINCE OF EMILIA-ROMAGNA, 

Parmigiano Reggiano is referred to 

simply as formaggio (cheese), as if it’s 

universally accepted that there is only 

one. The choice comes with how long 

you like it aged: 24, 36 or 48 months. In 

this part of the world, Parmesan is what’s 

sandwiched in a standard cheese toastie, 

broken into hunks to pick at with fizzy 

wine or crumbled into risottos. Here, 

aged Parmesan is one of the first foods 

fed to babies because it’s so easy digest. 

The wheels of Parmesan that the 

Consortium of Parmigiano Reggiano 

Cheese deem worthy of bearing their 

mark are made only in Parma, Reggio 

Emilia, Modena, Mantua (on the east 

bank of the Po River) and Bologna (on 

the west bank of the Reno River). The

TRAVEL 

cows eat the grasses that grow here 

(no grains) and the cheese is aged for 

a minimum of 12 months. Ancient breeds 

like the vacche rosse or “red cows” produce 

superior milk with a good structure 

for longer ageing, which means a more 

complex flavour. 

Parmesan is made by hand and those 

who know how to make it never take 

a day off in their lives – they are fully 

dedicated to their craft. This is why 

husband-and-wife teams are common and 

why a cheese master’s son told me that he 

had vowed to never follow in his father’s 

footsteps. Making Parmigiano Reggiano 

truly is a vocation. To understand why, 

I contacted the consortium and met 

professional taster Igino Morini and head 

of the foreign office, Simone Ficarelli. 

We started at the dairy Caseificio Notari 

to observe the cheese-making process and 

a tutored tasting followed at their HQ 

in Reggio Emilia. And after spending 

a day with these two, no-one would ever 

hesitate again in the supermarket aisle 

when weighing up Parmesan versus 

a cheaper option. Here’s what Simon said 

on being asked why it’s worth paying for 

the authentic product. 

IT TAKES 600 LITRES OF MILK TO 

MAKE ONE WHEEL OF CHEESE. 

We fill the cauldrons with 1 200 litres of milk 

and from that we will get two cheeses, so 

already you begin to understand the price. 

IT’S STILL MADE IN COPPER 

CAULDRONS. 

Copper is a good heat conductor and a 

catalyst for the enzymes that help develop 

flavour. The copper vats differentiate it from 

industrial production and make it artisanal. 

IT’S MADE BY SOMEONE WHO HAS 

DEDICATED THEIR LIFE TO THE ART. 

The most amazing thing I heard during 

my career came from an 80-year-old 

cheese master. He said, “I still haven’t 

learnt enough because each day the cheese 

teaches me something.” For us the milk 

looks all the same – white and liquid – but 

the cheese master has to understand the 

milk because the level of fat or foaming 

differs, depending on whether conditions 

are sunny and dry or cold and humid. This 

changes the way the microelements behave, 

so it is a job that requires a high level of 

understanding and experience. Once the 

milk starts coagulating, the cheese master 

will increase the temperature and break up 

the curds into corn-sized pieces. At that 

point the most delicate phase begins. Using 

his hand, the cheese master assesses when 

the cheese is right and if he misses it, if 

it’s 30 seconds more or less or one degree 

more or less, it will compromise the quality 

of the cheese. 

“IN THIS PART 

OF THE WORLD, 

PARMESAN 

IS WHAT’S 

SANDWICHED 

IN A STANDARD 

CHEESE TOASTIE 

OR BROKEN INTO 

HUNKS TO PICK AT 

WITH FIZZY WINE” 

THE STARTER CAN BE UP TO 

900 YEARS OLD. 

The real heritage of our production is the 

whey starter. It’s left over from the previous 

day’s production – like the mother starter 

in sourdough. There are only two or three 

cheeses in the world that still use the 

naked lactiflora, all the other cheeses buy 

109 

PHOTOGRAPHS MARTINA GARDINER AND JAN CRONJE 

WHITEBAIT 

AT AN IRISH 

BEACH 

SHACK 

“A cone of newspaper 

filled with crispy 

deep-fried spiced 

whitebait – a bowl of 

sweet-spicy marie rose 

sauce on the side for 

dunking – the simplest 

of starters in the most 

casual of settings, but a 

mouthwatering highlight 

on a memorable 

foodie journey around 

Northern Ireland. Just 

looking at the photo 

of that whitebait (page 

103) takes me straight 

back to lunch at Harry’s 

Shack, a weather-beaten, 

no-frills eatery located 

in a renovated former 

National Trust info office 

right on the beach at 

Portstewart Strand. 

Massive windows offer 

unrivalled views across 

the beach to County 

Donegal, and it’s while 

taking in that vista that 

diners are treated to 

simple fare from the 

sea, field and garden, 

all prepared by awardwinning 

chef Derek 

Creagh. Formerly of 

legendary restaurants 

including the Fat Duck, 

he and Harry’s owner 

Donal Doherty have 

created a legendary 

spot of their own based 

on local ingredients, 

freshness and clean 

flavours. Simple and 

spectacular at the same 

time. I’d go back in 

a heartbeat.” 

– Michelle Coburn, TASTE 

features editor; facebook.com/ 

HarrysShack 

“IT’S WHILE TAKING IN THAT VISTA 

THAT DINERS ARE TREATED TO 

SIMPLE FARE FROM THE SEA, 

FIELD AND GARDEN”

TRAVEL 

110 

Above, clockwise from left: These newly formed cheeses will still have to pass the hammer test; Igino Morini's most 

memorable Parmesan was a wheel from this cellar; Simone (left) and Igino (right) taste different ages of Parmesan. 

selective ferment from multinationals. So 

the microelements have been living for 

hundreds of years. If we stopped for three 

days we would lose this important heritage. 

EVERY CHEESE IS CHECKED. 

Since we do not use any additives, after 

one year our expert from the Consortium 

checks every cheese with a hammer. We 

make three million cheeses every year and 

each of those is checked. If it does not 

What’s in a name? 

Within the European Union the 

word “Parmesan” only refers 

to real Parmigiano Reggiano 

(it is classified as a Protected 

Designation of Origin, or PDO, 

product) but the same does not 

necessarily apply outside EU 

borders, where Parmesan can 

be used to label various similar 

cheeses. Authentic Parmigiano 

Reggiano is available at selected 

Woolworths stores. 

meet the standards, it will be discarded. 

On average we discard something like 

eight percent of production. Those 

that don’t pass the test will be sold to 

companies making sliced cheese, mixed 

and grated cheese. And if the cheese is 

good enough to be considered Parmigiano 

Reggiano but not perfect enough to face 

long ageing, we call it mezzano because 

it must be cut and eaten very young. 

IT TAKES TIME AND PATIENCE. 

At a glance our cheese looks the same 

as most industrialised products. So people 

say it’s expensive. If you want to annoy 

a producer, tell him that it’s expensive! 

You cannot compare an industrial 

product, which is ready in five minutes, 

with an artisanal product that takes two 

years. When we talk about industrialised 

products we can talk about costs. When we 

talk about the artisanal product we have to 

talk about value. If you think about it, to 

carry out this kind of production you need 

to have maybe 900 cows, from 1 ton of 

milk you get two cheeses and you have to 

wait two years to get your money back! W 

RAMEN IN 

BRISBANE 

“I make pretty damn 

sure I have a bowl 

of ramen at Hakataya 

Ramen every time I’m in 

Brisbane, which is at least once 

a year when I visit my sister. 

The dish has an emotional 

connection for me because we 

always eat it together; it’s a ritual 

for us. It goes something like this: 

‘So we have to fit in the ramen 

sometime, when should we do 

it?’ An exchange about timing 

breakfast and lunch usually 

follows, we plan our days around 

what and when we’re going to 

eat, as one should on holiday. 

We always have the charsiumen 

– Japanese pork noodle 

soup with extra pork (that’s 

important). We join the queue, 

take a number and wait. If we get 

a seat at the small bar, we watch 

as the chef assembles our bowls: 

a ladleful of a secret ingredient 

goes in first, then the noodles 

with a deft flick of the wrist, then 

it’s topped up with the tonkotsu, 

the pork bone broth that’s been 

cooking all night, the sliced pork 

and spring onions. It’s served 

with spicy pickled seaweed on 

the side. Slurping and silence 

ensues. And sisterly bonding, 

the most important part.” 

– Lynda Ingham-Brown, TASTE senior 

copy editor; hakatayaramen.com 

“WE ALWAYS 

HAVE THE 

CHARSIU-MEN – 

JAPANESE PORK 

NOODLE SOUP 

WITH EXTRA 

PORK (THAT’S 

IMPORTANT)”


FROMAGE, WITH LOVE 


Soft, spreadable goat's-milk Chavroux; mellow, soft, ripened Chaumes; rich, oozy 

Le Pié d'Angloys Ñ Woolies takes your French cheeseboard experience beyond Brie 

and Camembert with a host of authentic fromages straight from the source. To enjoy, 


allow the creamy beauties to come to room temperature, then let each cheese's 

FRENCH CHEESES AND PRESERVES 

Arrange Woolies’ Chavroux, Chaumes, 

Le Pié d’Angloys, St André, Caprice des 

Dieux, Etorki, Fol Epi, Le Rustique Brie, 

Le Rustique Camembert and St Albray on 

a cheeseboard and allow to come to room 

temperature. Meanwhile, stir 1 cup frozen 

or fresh pitted cherries through 1 cup 

Woolies mixed berry preserve. Heat until 

jammy. Fry wafer-thin slices of celeriac in 

hot oil until crisp. Serve with the cheese. 

unique flavour profile do the talking. Oui, oui, we say! 

woolworths.co.za


IT’S CHAI TIME 

The antioxidants of green tea and the warming flavours of chai? Yes please! Higher Living 

Infusions knows a thing or two about crafting top-notch teas (bonus: it uses only organic 

ingredients!), so you'd better believe that its green tea chai ticks all the boxes for a truly 

delicious cup. Offering a carefully balanced blend of green tea leaves, cardamom, 

cinnamon, clove and orange peel, it's the perfect sip to start Ñ or end Ñ the day. 

Available exclusively at Woolworths. 

higherlivingherbs.com 

PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION FOODLOOSE PRODUCTIONS 

FOOD ASSISTANT CLAIRE GOODERSON

EDITED BY LYNDA INGHAM-BROWN 

Taste 

Kitchen 

TIPS AND 

TECHNIQUES 

FOR THE 

MASTER COOK 


RICE, 

RICE BABY 

We’ve all tried to make our own sushi, 

and mostly failed. Come on now, be honest. The basis 

of good sushi is good rice, which is not as terrifying as you 

might think. Turn the page for our definitive guide to making 

perfectly sticky sushi rice and you’ll soon be rolling 

rainbow rolls like a pro.

It’s all rice now 

Follow these easy steps for cooking sushi rice (no shortcuts!) and we can guarantee you’ll 

be hosting sushi nights at your house in no time 

1 

4 Cover and bring to a boil over 

a high heat. Watch the pot so that 

it doesn’t boil over. Reduce the heat 

to low as soon as it comes to a boil, 

and leave it to simmer for exactly 

20 minutes. Turn off the heat 

and uncover the rice. 

6 

114 

1 Place the uncooked rice into a large 

bowl. Fill the bowl with cold water, 

swish it around, then drain. Repeat this 

process until the water runs clear. This 

could take around ten rinses. 

2 

4 

6 Pour over the vinegar mixture 

(see opposite) and toss the rice 

by gently cutting into it vertically 

with your rice paddle (or spatula), 

and then lifting the rice and 

turning it over. As you do this, 

fan the rice with a fan or piece 

of cardboard. 

2 Fill the bowl one last time, then 

soak the rice for 30 minutes before 

draining it again. 

3 Place the rice and 

1½ cups cold water for 

every cup of uncooked 

rice in a large saucepan. 

3 

5 

5 Transfer the rice to a bamboo 

steamer or a large, wide glass or 

unvarnished wooden bowl (do not 

use an aluminium bowl as this will 

retain heat and continue cooking 

the rice, and can also impart 

a metallic taste to the rice). Use 

a paddle or wooden spoon to 

gently spread and separate the 

grains to help them cool. 

7 

7 Allow the rice to cool a little before 

starting to make your sushi. Ideally, sushi 

rice should be at room temperature 

when it is time to make your rolls. 

Prepared sushi rice can be stored 

covered with clingwrap or a moist cloth 

for up to 12 hours. Do not refrigerate it 

as this will destroy its texture. 

ILLUSTRATIONS ADRIAN OWEN SOURCES LAFUJIMAMA.COM, SUSHIFAQ.COM, WIKIPEDIA.COM

TASTE KITCHEN 

THE VINEGAR 

The vinegar mixture, or sushi-su, 

is an integral part of making sushi. 

It imparts a balanced sweet-sour 

flavour to the rice. Use ¼ to 1⁄3 cup 

sushi-su for 3 cups of cooked rice. 

rice vinegar 1 cup 

sugar 3 T 

salt 2 ½ t 

kombu 1 piece, about 1.5 cm square 

(optional) 

1 Combine the vinegar, sugar, salt 

and kombu in a small saucepan. 

Place the saucepan over a mediumhigh 

heat and cook, stirring, until 

the sugar and salt have dissolved. 

2 When the mixture is clear, remove 

the saucepan from the heat and set 

it aside to cool. Discard the kombu. 

3 Sushi-su can be stored in an 

airtight container in the refrigerator 

for up to 1 month. 

SUSHI ETIQUETTE 

You really shouldn’t be drowning your sushi in soya sauce or draping 

it with pickled ginger. But no judging … Traditionally, etiquette 

suggests that nigiri is turned over so that only the topping is dipped; 

this is because the soya sauce is for flavouring the topping, not the 

rice, and because the rice will absorb too much soya sauce and fall 

apart. If it’s difficult to turn the nigiri upside down, you can baste the 

sushi in soya sauce using gari (sliced ginger) as a brush. Toppings 

that have their own sauce (such as eel) should not be eaten with soya 

sauce. The sushi chef will add an appropriate amount of wasabi to the 

sushi while preparing it, and etiquette suggests eating the sushi as is, 

since the chef knows the proper amount of wasabi to use. 

115 

READY TO ROLL 

Woolworths sells sushi rice 

and everything you need 

to make sushi, including 

rolling mats, pickled ginger and 

nori. Sushi rice, R64.95 for 1 kg. 

SAY WHAT? 

NETA 

THE PIECE OF FISH 

THAT IS PLACED ON 

TOP OF THE SUSHI RICE 

FOR NIGIRI. “SUSHI” 

TECHNICALLY REFERS 

ONLY TO THE 

SEASONED RICE.

STARTER COOK 

Take your veggies from bland to brilliant and you (and your 

family) will love them even more. Think broccoli spiked with Asian 

flavours, smoky beans on toast and cauliflower in a cheesy frittata 

that’ll trump your gran’s Sunday lunch version any day 

Veg out, 

man 

PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS RECIPES AND PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY 

FOOD ASSISTANT CAMILLA REINHOLD

STARTER COOK 

117 

SPICY FRIED POTATO 

SHAKSHUKA WITH 

NAAN BREAD 


WEEKEND LUNCH 

SPICY FRIED POTATO SHAKSHUKA 

WITH NAAN BREAD 

Peel, cube and parboil 500 g potatoes. Soften 2 small 

chopped red onions, 2 green chillies and 1 clove 

chopped garlic in 50–100 g butter. When caramelised, 

add 1 t mustard seeds. Add the potatoes and fry until 

golden. Add 2 x 400 g cans tomatoes, bring to a simmer 

and cook for 20 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and 

make 4 small wells in the sauce. Place a kale leaf into 

each well, then break 1 free-range egg into each well. 

Simmer for 10 minutes, or until the eggs are set. Serve 

with toasted naan bread. Serves 4 HEALTH-CONSCIOUS 

WINE: Creation Viognier 2016

STARTER COOK 

FUSS-FREE SIDE 

MAPLE-ROASTED POTATO-AND-SAGE 

OPEN TART 

Preheat the oven to 200°C. Slice 800 g assorted sweet 

potatoes very thinly, then toss with a handful of fresh sage, 

3 T olive oil and season to taste. Lay on a baking tray and 

bake for 15–20 minutes. Score a 2 cm border around a sheet 

of puff pastry, generously grate over 150 g smoked 

provolone or Boerenkaas and arrange the sliced potatoes 

on top. Scatter with fresh sage and drizzle with maple syrup. 

Bake for a further 30–35 minutes, or until golden and puffed 

up. Drizzle with a little more maple syrup to serve if you like. 

Serves 4 MEAT-FREE 

WINE: Woolworths Bellevue Pinotage 2015 

118 

VEGGIE SWAP 

This tart is delicious 

with tomato or pea 

soup. Swap the sweet 

potato for thinly sliced 

butternut or pumpkin 

if you like. 

MAPLE-ROASTED 

POTATO-AND-SAGE 

OPEN TART 

R26 PER SERVING

STARTER COOK 

STOCK UP ON 

THESE WINTER 

VEGGIES 

There’s nothing more 

comforting than creamy 

mashed potato on a cold 

night. And the beautiful 

bright green of steamed 

(still crunchy) Tenderstem 

broccoli is an instant 

mood-lifter. First rule 

of winter: don’t run out 

of these veggie drawer 

staples from Woolies 

MIDWEEK DINNER 

ASIAN-BRAISED CHICKEN AND 

TENDERSTEM BROCCOLI WITH RICE NOODLES 

Preheat the oven to 180°C. Fry 500 g Woolworths free-range chicken mince in 2 T 

canola oil for 5 minutes. Add 2 T grated ginger, 2 cloves grated garlic, 1 T ground 

black pepper and fry for a further 2 minutes. Remove from the heat. Add 2–3 cups 

chicken stock, 2 T soya sauce and 1 T rice wine vinegar. Return to the heat and braise 

for 10 minutes. Add 230 g blanched Tenderstem broccoli and braise for a further 

5 minutes, or until the broccoli is cooked to your liking. Serve with rice noodles, 

topped with sliced red chilli, fresh basil and sliced spring onions. Serves 4 FAT- 

CONSCIOUS, DAIRY-FREE WINE: Eagle’s Nest Viognier 2016 

BABY MARROWS 

Versatile and delicate in 

flavour, try them sautéed 

in butter or olive oil with 

garlic or fresh herbs. 

Also delicious steamed, 

boiled or grilled. 

CAULIFLOWER 

Roast a whole head of 

cauliflower in the oven, 

or buy the bags of florets 

to roast, steam, grill or 

boil. Chopped cauliflower 

rice is a great low-carb 

alternative to regular rice. 

POTATOES 

Take your pick from 

washed Everyday 

medium and large 

potatoes, to baby 

Mediterranean potatoes 

– ideal for baking, 

boiling, mashing 

or roasting. 

SWEET POTATOES 

The range includes 

regular sweet potatoes 

and Beauregard orangeflesh 

sweet potatoes, 

plus convenient diced 

sweet potatoes ready to 

boil and mash with 

butter and cinnamon, 

and sweet potato chips 

ready to roast and serve 

with home-made aïoli. 

TENDERSTEM BROCCOLI 

Available as Tenderstem 

broccoli stems and 

Tenderstem broccoli 

tips – lightly steam 

them as a crunchy side 

for meaty dishes. Also 

delicious in stir-fries. 

“TENDERSTEM BROCCOLI REALLY 

BRIGHTENS UP A DISH, ADDING 

WONDERFUL FRESH COLOUR AND 

CRUNCH” – HANNAH LEWRY 

ASIAN-BRAISED 

CHICKEN AND 

TENDERSTEM 

BROCCOLI WITH 

RICE NOODLES 

R30 PER SERVING

STARTER COOK 

BRUNCH IS SERVED 

Add a fresh green 

salad or dressed 

green beans on 

the side and you’re 

good to go. 


GOAT’S CHEESE 

FRITTATA 


120 

MOREISH BRUNCH 

CAULIFLOWER-AND-GOAT’S 

CHEESE FRITTATA 

Preheat the oven to 200°C. Mix 6 t fennel seeds, 3 t dried chilli 

flakes, 1 t ground black pepper, the juice and zest of 2 lemons 

and ¼ cup olive oil. Cut 2 heads cauliflower into steaks and 

coat in the marinade. Season and roast for 15 minutes until 

tender but still firm. Whisk 8 free-range eggs, add 1 cup cream, 

1 cup milk, 100 g grated Boerenkaas or Parmesan and season 

to taste. Place the cauliflower into an ovenproof dish, then 

pour over the egg mixture. Dot 150 g Boursin soft goat’s 

cheese or chevin onto the mixture and bake for 40 minutes 

at 160°C. Serves 6 CARB-CONSCIOUS, MEAT-FREE, WHEAT- 

AND GLUTEN-FREE WINE: Cederberg Bukettraube 2016

STARTER COOK 

FRIDAY SUPPER 

SMOKY BABY 

MARROWS 

WITH GARLICKY 

CANNELLINI 

BEANS ON TOAST 

Roast 1 head garlic under the 

grill, turning often until 

evenly charred and soft. 

Remove from the oven and 

cool slightly. Soften 2 thinly 

sliced large leeks in 50 g 

butter and 1 T olive oil. 

Squeeze out 4–6 cloves of 

the roast garlic into the leeks 

and pour in 1 cup cream. Add 

1 sprig rosemary, 1 x 400 g 

can drained cannellini beans 

and simmer until thick, about 

15 minutes. Toss 350 g sliced 

baby marrows in 2 T olive oil 

and season. Pan-fry on one 

side in a hot, dry pan until 

browned. Serve the beans on 

charred slices of ciabatta with 

the baby marrow ribbons 

and a squeeze of lemon juice. 

Serves 4 MEAT-FREE 

WINE: Woolworths Italian 

Pinot Grigio 2016 

FLAVOUR TIP 

Char baby marrows 

on one side to add 

delicious flavour. 

Roast the garlic in its 

skin for a smoky yet 

sweet taste that’ll 

elevate your dish. 

FARMING WITH TOMORROW IN MIND 

Ever wondered what the Farming for the Future 

logo you’ve seen in Woolies is all about? It shows 

that the fruit and veg you buy are farmed using 

methods that use water responsibly, improve soil 

quality and encourage biodiversity, which means 

you’re getting the best without it costing the Earth. 

SMOKY BABY MARROWS WITH 

GARLICKY CANNELLINI BEANS 

ON TOAST 

R29 PER SERVING

FOODSTUFF 

SHOPPING • INGREDIENTS • GIFTS • IDEAS 

SUPPER SORTED 

Who says midweek meals have to be uninspired? Whether it’s dinner for one or your 

turn to feed the family, whipping up something slightly fancier than a baked potato 

needn’t be a mission (or require hours of cleaning up on a school night … or any 

night, in fact). Woolies’ Easy to Cook range puts dinner on the table with minimal 

fuss and maximum flavour – and right now we’re a little obsessed with the new 

Easy to Cook seafood mix. A plateful of prawns, kingklip, squid and mussels in 

a fresh oregano and basil tomato cream sauce that’s ready in 20 minutes? Please 

and thank you. From R129.99. Available at selected stores.

WINTER, WHAT WINTER? 

There’s a new kid on the juice block and 

it’s so full of tropical, fruity goodness, 

it’s enough to kick the worst winter blues 

to the kerb. The latest addition to Woolies’ 

100% fruit juice blend range – mango, 

passion fruit and pineapple – is loaded 

with vitamins and contains zero added 

preservatives. Bottoms up! From R16.99 

for 500 ml and R39.99 for 1.5 litres. 

Available at selected stores. 

PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY TEXT LEE-ANNE SPURDENS 

YOGHURT, RELOADED 

Getting a little bored with the usual plain yoghurt routine? 

Woolies’ new full-cream Ayrshire vegetable-and-fruit yoghurts 

are guaranteed to keep things interesting, especially with 

flavour combos such as beetroot and strawberry, butternut 

and mango, and sweet potato, date and pear. They’ve got 

all the thick creaminess you love about Woolies’ yoghurt, 

are high in good-for-your-gut bifidobacterium cultures and, 

thanks to the veg content, all that colour is 100% natural. 

From R10.95. Available at selected stores.

MEAL PLANNER 

ON THE MENU TODAY … 

Warm yourself up with three comfort-food menus starring juicy 

roast chicken, smoky beans on toast and coffee risotto 

124 

COSY SUNDAY LUNCH 

Sweet potato gratin, p 34 

ClemenGold-glazed roast chicken, p 76 

Sesame banana spring rolls, p 128 

SUPERFOOD MENU 

Golden latte, p 26 

Smoky cannellini beans on toast, p 121 

Buttermilk rye crêpes Suzette, p 74 

WINTER BRUNCH 

Coffee risotto, p 64 

Potato-and-sage open tart, p 118 

Biksemad, p 96


PHOTOGRAPH WILLEM LOURENS PRODUCTION 

HANNAH LEWRY ASSISTANT JALAUN BEUKES 

PERFECT PORK 

Succulent, tender and versatile, Woolworths' top-quality South African pork comes into 

its own in a sosatie spread featuring three delectable flavour combinations 



PORK SOSATIES 

THREE WAYS 

STICKY CURRY 

Marinate cubed pork leg or 

shoulder in 3 T mild curry 

powder, ¼ cup olive oil, 3 T 

fruit chutney, 2 sprigs rosemary 

and 1 clove crushed garlic. 

Thread onto soaked skewers, 

alternating with dried apricots, 

butternut and streaky bacon, 

before braaiing or roasting. 

ASIAN 


shoulder in 3 T oyster sauce, 

2 T soya sauce, 1 T canola oil, 

2 cloves crushed garlic and 

2 finely chopped spring 

onions. Thread onto soaked 

skewers, alternating with 

yellow peppers and baby 

marrow ribbons before 

braaiing. 

HONEY AND MUSTARD 


shoulder in 6 T wholegrain 

mustard, 2 T runny honey, 

3 T white wine and a few sprigs 

of thyme. Thread onto soaked 

skewers, alternating with exotic 

mushrooms and mixed onions 

such as red and spring onions, 

before braaiing or roasting. 

Available at selected Woolworths 

stores – ask your Woolworths 

butcher to cut 2.5-cm cubes from 

pork leg or shoulder.

INDEX 

126 

STARTERS AND LIGHT MEALS 

Biksemad ........................................................................96 

Cauliflower-and-brinjal tart ...............................22 

Cauliflower-and-goat’s cheese frittata ...120 

Potato aloo sarmies ................................................34 

Pav bhaji .........................................................................96 

Pumpkin fritters ........................................................42 

Smoky baby marrows with garlicky 

cannellini beans on toast ................................121 

Smoky maple-espresso baked beans ........66 

Spicy fried potato shakshuka with naan 

bread .............................................................................117 

MAIN MEALS 

Asian-braised chicken and Tenderstem 

broccoli with rice noodles ..............................119 

Beef fillet with café au lait sauce ...................69 

Caramelised orange-and-fennel 

mussels ..........................................................................79 

Citrus-braised shortrib with chilli, lime and 

green tomato salsa ...............................................74 

Fish tacos with one-minute lime 

mayonnaise and pink grapefruit ..................76 

Jerk chicken, rice and peas .............................100 

Maple-roasted potato-and-sage 

open tart .....................................................................118 

One-pot chicken baked on dhal ...................22 

Sticky ClemenGold-glazed roast chicken 

with pumpkin wedges .......................................76 

The gatsby .................................................................100 

DESSERTS AND BAKING 

Buttermilk rye crêpes Suzette with 

clementines .................................................................74 

Cinnamon doughnuts with coffee royal 

icing .................................................................................65 

Coffee îles flottantes ................................................64 

Coffee jelly ....................................................................30 

Coffee risotto................................................................64 

Daigaku imo ................................................................96 

Lemon-curd lava puddings .................................. 

..............................................................................................76 

Mocha in a cone ......................................................70 

Sesame banana spring rolls with salted 

caramel sauce ........................................................128 

The impossible custard tart ..............................22 

SIDE SERVINGS 

Mexican-style sweet potatoes .......................34 

Sticky roast carrots in barley broth ..............24 

Sweet potato gratin .............................................34 

BEVERAGES 

ClemenGold sake toddy ....................................58 

Golden latte with black pepper 

and maple syrup .....................................................26 

COMPETITION TERMS AND CONDITIONS 

The winners will be the first correct entries drawn after the closing date. In the event of the judges not being able to get hold of the selected 

winner on contact details supplied, an alternative winner will be selected. The judges’ decision is final and no correspondence will be entered 

into. The prize is not transferable and may not be converted into cash. Employees of Woolworths, New Media Publishing and the prize 

sponsor company, their families, agencies or any other parties associated with the competition may not enter. All details correct at time 

of going to print. Note that some expenses may not be included in the prize. Visit taste.co.za for prize-specific information and terms and 

conditions. Entry is limited to South African residents over the age of 18. 

COMPETITION AND GIVEAWAY ENTRY DETAILS 

To enter, SMS the word “TASTE” followed by the keyword on the giveaway or competition page (and the answer, if applicable), your name, 

surname, email address, physical address and telephone number to 45606 (R1.50 per SMS), or enter online at taste.co.za. Unless otherwise 

specified, the closing date for all giveaways and competitions in this issue is 23 July 2017. Terms and conditions apply, see above. 

CONVERSION CHART 

250 ml = 1 cup 

190 ml = ¾ cup 

125 ml = ½ cup 

85 ml = ¹⁄3 cup 

65 ml = ¼ cup 

5 ml = 1 teaspoon 

15 ml = 1 tablespoon 

30 ml = 2 tablespoons 



* Woolworths products featured are subject to availability and may not be available at all stores. All prices include VAT and were correct at the time of going to press. 

Offers available while stocks last. Not all products and ingredients featured are available from Woolworths. While all precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy 

of information, neither the publisher and editor, nor New Media Publishing, can be held liable for any inaccuracies, injuries or damages that may arise.

One of the greatest challenges for human 

wellbeing in the 21st century will be to focus 

on the advantage of having a healthy colon and 

therefore a good immune system – this is where 

probiotics can play a significant role. 

Probiotics are critical for normal digestion 

and for defence against infection. 

Bacteria in the gut are known to: 

• Stimulate the immune system 

• Enhance the mucosal barrier 

• Aid digestion and break down toxins 

• Inhibit adherence of pathogens 

A good probiotic can be beneficial in the 

following ailments: 

• Diarrhoea or constipation 

• Bad breath, gas and bloating 

• Irritable bowel and lactose intolerance 

• Gastroenteritis and playschool diseases in 

young children

SIMPLE PLEASURES 

GO BA-NA-NAS! 

Try this sweet twist on the classic spring roll – bananas deep-fried 

in crispy pastry, then drizzled in a rich salted caramel sauce (add Madagascan 

vanilla ice cream on the side … if you dare!) 

PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS RECIPE AND PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY 

FOOD ASSISTANT CAMILLA REINHOLD 

SESAME BANANA 

SPRING ROLLS 

WITH SALTED 

CARAMEL SAUCE 

Serves 8 

A LITTLE EFFORT 

GREAT VALUE 



128 

canola oil 2 cups 

small bananas 8, halved 

spring roll wrappers 8, halved 

desiccated coconut 100 g 

sesame seeds 2 T, toasted 

For the caramel sauce: 

sugar 200 g 

butter 100 g 

cream ¼ cup 

black salt or sea salt flakes, to taste 

1 Heat the oil in a saucepan, then 

wrap the bananas in the pastry. Fry 

until golden brown on one side, 

then turn and cook on the other 

side. Remove from the oil using 

a slotted spoon, drain on kitchen 

paper and sprinkle with the coconut 

and sesame seeds. 2 To make the 

caramel sauce, place the sugar into 

a pan over a medium heat and melt. 

When slightly caramelised, add the 

butter and mix until melted and 

combined. Bring to a gentle simmer, 

then remove from the heat and stir 

in the cream. Sprinkle over the salt. 

Set aside to cool slightly and drizzle 

over the spring rolls. 

WINE: Hilton Viognier 2016 

WORD ON THE STREET 

Turon are a Filipino street-food snack of sliced bananas and a slice of jackfruit sprinkled 

with brown sugar and deep-fried in a spring roll wrapper, sometimes drizzled with syrup 

and served with a coconut sauce. Trying this at home? Use mango instead of jackfruit.

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Ghana: 34 Spintex Rd, Accra • Tel: +233 207 591 313

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