Dubrovnik and Dalmacija travel guide

Cavtat
Croatia’s most southerly
resort was first settled in the 3rd
century BC, and it still bears the
marks of the Illyrians, Greeks,
Romans and Slavs who occupied
it at one time or another. When
you’re not sampling the café-life
on the waterfront promenade,
look out for the 16th-century
Rector’s Palace, and a mausoleum
by Ivan Meštrovicommissioned
by the wealthy Rai family. Also
worth a visit is the Vlaho Bukovac
Gallery, dedicated to the memory
of one of Croatia’s most famous
painters. Map L3 • Vlaho Bukovac
Gallery: Vlahe Bukovca 5. 020 478 646.
10am–1pm, 4–8pm Tue–Sun. Adm charge
Vlaho Bukovac (1855–1922), self-portrait
Konavle
The dramatic landscape of
this narrow strip of land extending
from Cavtat down to Kotor Bay in
Montenegro is characterized by
harsh karst rock, verdant forests
and sheer cliffs. An exploration
of the area turns up ancient burial
cairns, ruined fortresses, the
remnants of a Roman aqueduct,
and hills studded with vines and
olive groves. Less obvious to
casual visitors is the destruction
wreaked during the war of the
early 1990s, when many of the
area’s villages were decimated.
Organized “safaris” are a good
option (see p67). Map L3
A Drive Along the
Pelješac Peninsula
Morning
Forty-five minutes north of
Dubrovnik on the Adriatic
Highway (a scenic though
frustrating drive), a signposted
left turn leads onto
the mountainous Pelješac
Peninsula; the town of Mali
Ston is a short distance
further on. Time your arrival
for a first-class early lunch
of oysters and fresh fish in
the wonderful Vila Koruna
(see p48). After lunch,
make the short journey to
Mali Ston’s sibling, Ston,
and explore its rugged old
walls (currently being
considered for inclusion on
UNESCO’s World Heritage
list). Back in the car, follow
the main road as it heads
inland, emerging after half
an hour or so by the Malo
More (“Small Sea”) on the
northeast coast of the
peninsula. Make a brief
pit-stop at the Beach Bar
(see p96), with its great
waterside location.
Afternoon
Back on the main road,
Janjina (see p94), a little
further on, is a good place
to pull up and buy homeproduced
wine; just look
out for signs. Alternatively,
continue on the same route
until you reach Potomje,
the home of Croatia’s best
red wine, Dinga. Some of
the cellars here welcome
visitors (but remember that
Croatian law prohibits
drivers from consuming any
alcohol). Continue northwest
to the low-key resort of
Orebi, whose beaches and
scenic location merit an
overnight stay; or take a car
ferry across the Pelješki
Kanal to Korula Town (see
pp16–17) and spend the
night there. If you have to
get back to Dubrovnik, it‘s
only a two-hour drive away.
Around Southern Dalmaia
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