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Dubrovnik and Dalmacija travel guide

traveling to Dubrovnik and looking for bars, restaurants, history and best things to do in Dalmatia and Dubrovnik

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Omiš<br />

Set at the point where the<br />

Cetina river emerges from its<br />

rugged gorge to discharge into<br />

the Adriatic, Omiš is a good base<br />

for rafting trips (see p44), <strong>and</strong> a<br />

convenient jumping-off point for<br />

the gorge <strong>and</strong> its enjoyable fish<br />

restaurants. Once a notorious<br />

pirate bolthole, these days Omiš<br />

is a largely modern town, although<br />

it does have a small historic<br />

quarter, <strong>and</strong> there are some<br />

atmospheric old fortifications in<br />

the hills above the town. Map<br />

E5 • Tourist info: Trg Kneza Branislava bb.<br />

021 861 350. www.tz-omis.hr<br />

Živogoše <strong>and</strong> Zaostrog<br />

At the southern end of the<br />

Makarska Riviera is the small<br />

resort of Živogoše. The oldest<br />

settlement on this stretch of the<br />

coastline, it is home to a 17thcentury<br />

Franciscan monastery<br />

with an impressive Baroque altar<br />

<strong>and</strong> a renowned library whose<br />

holdings shed light on life during<br />

the Ottoman occupation of the<br />

region. Slightly further south is<br />

Zaostrog, home to an older (16thcentury)<br />

Franciscan monastery,<br />

an attractive site with a small art<br />

gallery <strong>and</strong> folk museum. Map<br />

H1 • Tourist info: Živogoše bb. 021 605<br />

069. www.zivogosce.hr<br />

Isl<strong>and</strong>-hopping<br />

Morning<br />

During high season, a<br />

number of companies<br />

operate hydrofoils that<br />

help the big Jadrolinija<br />

ferries (see p103) transport<br />

passengers around the<br />

central Dalmatian isl<strong>and</strong>s,<br />

making it possible to spend<br />

a long day isl<strong>and</strong>-hopping.<br />

Start the day with a light<br />

breakfast at one of the<br />

small quayside cafés near<br />

the ferry terminal in Split<br />

before heading out on the<br />

first Jadrolinija ferry to Vis<br />

(see p84). After a stroll<br />

around Vis Town’s waterfront,<br />

head for the Venetianstyle<br />

Kut district (see p37)<br />

in time for lunch at one of<br />

its excellent restaurants<br />

(see pp48, 87). Head back<br />

to the ferry terminal <strong>and</strong><br />

catch a fast ferry to Hvar<br />

Town (see p36). If you’ve<br />

overindulged, you can<br />

work off lunch with a brisk<br />

hike up to the fortress<br />

above the town.<br />

Afternoon<br />

Time now for the last isl<strong>and</strong><br />

of the day, so head by<br />

hydrofoil to the resort of<br />

Bol on the isl<strong>and</strong> of Bra<br />

(see p84), home to Croatia’s<br />

most famous beach, Zlatni<br />

Rat (see p42). If the fancy<br />

takes you, you could relax<br />

<strong>and</strong> spend the night here.<br />

Otherwise, head back to<br />

Split – either from Bol, or<br />

from the port of Supetar on<br />

the other side of the isl<strong>and</strong>,<br />

where Jadrolinija ferries<br />

run till late.<br />

Around Central Dalmatia<br />

Franciscan monastery, Zaostrog<br />

Note: sailing schedules are<br />

liable to change as often as<br />

the unpredictable Adriatic<br />

winds, so this itinerary<br />

should be carefully<br />

planned. Check timetables<br />

at the ferry terminal in Split,<br />

or at the kiosks at the<br />

southern end of the Riva.<br />

When <strong>travel</strong>ling by ferry, take plenty of sunscreen if you plan on<br />

sitting or st<strong>and</strong>ing outside for any length of time.<br />

83

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