Dubrovnik and Dalmacija travel guide

Around Northern Dalmatia
Church of the Holy Cross, Nin
Nin
This small, unassuming town
played a major role in Croatia’s
early history, when it was the
political and religious heart of the
kingdom. Long ignored by tourists,
it is now starting to become more
popular – not just for its relaxed
ambience, but for its interesting
ecclesiastical buildings (see p38)
and excellent beaches (see p42).
The town is easy to explore as
a half or full day-trip, and there’s
a sprinkling of pension-style
accommodation. Map B3 • Tourist
info: Trg Brae Radia 3. 023 265 247.
www.nin.hr
Tribunj
On the edge of the Kornati
National Park, and connected to
the mainland by a bridge, stands
the small islet of Tribunj. This is
the unlikely base for Dalmatia’s
largest fishing fleet, and when
the catch is landed, it can be an
entertaining and colourful place
to be. It’s a good spot to stop
for lunch or an afternoon visit;
part of the charm is that you can
walk around the whole island in
20 minutes. Map C4 • Tourist info:
Badnje bb. 022 446 143
Primošten
Some say that Primošten
looks better from a distance than
it does close up, but this favourite
of the yachting community makes
for a very pleasant day-trip, and
its hotels invite longer stays.
One of the coast’s most popular
nightclubs, Aurora (see p78), is
nearby. Map C4 • Tourist info: Rudina
Biskupa Josipa Arneria 2. 022 571 111
The Road to Independence
Northern Dalmatia was colonized
by the Greeks in the 4th century
BC. The Romans followed, and it
was not until the 10th century that
the first Croat state emerged. In
1204, the Venetians took Zadar, and
for several centuries they vied
with Austria-Hungary for control
of the region. The 20th century
saw the emergence of Yugoslavia,
Mussolini’s occupation, and the
35-year dominance of Tito. In 1991
Northern Dalmatia finally became
part of an independent Croatia.
Fisherman mending nets, Tribunj
Krapanj
Just across from the rather
unprepossessing mainland village
of Brodarica (easily accessed
from the Adriatic Highway) lies
the picturesque island of Krapanj
– the smallest inhabited island in
the Adriatic. The trim houses that
line the waterfront give way to a
small old quarter that is still
largely untouched by the
incursions of tourism. The only
tourist attraction, housed in the
Franciscan Monastery, is the
Town Museum, which delves
into the island’s past as a major
sponge-diving centre. Boats from
Brodarica regularly ply the short
route across the channel to the
pancake-flat island. Map C4
74
In Croatian addresses, “bb” is short for bez broj, meaning
“without number”.