Dubrovnik and Dalmacija travel guide
traveling to Dubrovnik and looking for bars, restaurants, history and best things to do in Dalmatia and Dubrovnik traveling to Dubrovnik and looking for bars, restaurants, history and best things to do in Dalmatia and Dubrovnik
Around Northern Dalmatia Left ibenik Old Town Right Primošten Northern Dalmatia In the KrKa and Kornati national parKs, Northern Dalmatia possesses two of Europe’s most stunning natural oases – escapes of breathtaking beauty that enchant everyone from families with children to world-weary travellers. Beyond these two sublime retreats, much of the region is still relatively unexplored, leaving the coastal cities of Zadar and Šibenik relatively free of the tourist crowds. Zadar is a vibrant Adriatic city whose Old Town comes alive in summer with the bustle of pavement cafés and alfresco restaurants, while in the Cathedral of St James, Šibenik boasts one of Europe’s most spellbinding cathedrals, as well as a rambling Old Town of its own. Elsewhere, surprises such as the trim waterfront towns of Skradin and Novigrad await, and in the extreme north there is Nin, an outpost crucial to early Croatian history, where you will also find some of the best beaches in the land. Krka National Park Sights Zadar Old Town Šibenik Old Town Krka National Park Paklenica National Park Nin Primošten Tribunj Krapanj Skradin Novigrad 72 Preceding pages View of Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape), near Bol on the island of Bra
The Sea Gate, Zadar Old Town Zadar Old Town Having hauled itself back from economic meltdown in the 1990s, Zadar is once again a buzzing Adriatic city, complete with an attractive old core which juts out confidently on its own peninsula. This compact and largely pedestrianized area holds the city’s main attractions, including a Roman forum and the remarkable Church of St Donat’s (see pp30–31). Šibenik Old Town Given Šibenik’s unique position as a city that was founded and developed by the early Croats rather than the Romans or Venetians, it comes as no surprise that its old core is markedly different from the standard Adriatic template. The buildings are smaller, and the streets far narrower and tighterknit – a real warren, in which it is easy to slip back, in your imagination, through the centuries. In the streets below the castle, forget your map and just wander – but don’t miss the Cathedral of St James (see pp28–9, 37). Map C4 • Tourist info: Fausta Vrania 18. 022 212 075 Krka National Park This natural playground of pools, waterfalls and emerald lakes makes for a perfect daytrip. On a hot day, bring your swimwear, as the boat that brings you into the park from Skradin drops you off near Skradinski Buk, the best place in the park to cool off in the clear waters of the Krka River. The park is well prepared for tourism, with further boats heading off in search of Visovac Monastery, Krka Monastery and the waterfalls at Roški Slap – not to mention restaurants, cafés, ice cream stalls and souvenir shops (see pp20–21). Paklenica National Park Designated a national park in 1949, Paklenica has become the destination of choice for savvy Slovene and Italian climbers and walkers. This protected wilderness of vaulting limestone peaks rises from the coast through two sweeping gorges, which just beg to be explored. Velika Paklenica is perfect for day-trippers and walkers, while the more rustic and challenging charms of Mala Paklenica attract serious outdoor types. A network of lodges and mountain huts allows exploration of the higher peaks, though all the usual precautions, as well as local advice, should be taken (see p52). Map B2 • Park Office: Franje Tumana 14a, Starigrad-Paklenica. 230 369 202. www.paklenica.hr • Adm charge Lilies in the Botanical Gardens, Paklenica National Park Around Northern Dalmatia For the stunnning Kornati National Park See pp26–7, 77 73
- Page 21 and 22: Church of St John the Baptist This
- Page 23 and 24: Visovac Monastery Founded by Franc
- Page 25 and 26: Belltower The belltower, which soar
- Page 27 and 28: Trg Republike In contrast to the R
- Page 29 and 30: Kornat The largest island in the Na
- Page 31 and 32: Gothic Portal The sculptures of va
- Page 33: Narodni Trg This busy square (abov
- Page 37 and 38: 1808: Napoleon Annexes Republic of
- Page 39 and 40: ibenik above, a rambling fort watch
- Page 41 and 42: pops up throughout the city, but no
- Page 43 and 44: Hermitage of Blaca, Bra This 16th-
- Page 45 and 46: fire in 1995. There are plenty of l
- Page 47 and 48: Tennis National heroes Goran Ivani
- Page 49 and 50: (see pp16-17, 95) and Lastovo (see
- Page 51 and 52: Taverna Rustica, Dubrovnik Part of
- Page 53 and 54: authentic, buy intricate handwoven
- Page 55 and 56: Resort Hotels The swimming pools,
- Page 57: Split Summer Festival Opera, balle
- Page 60 and 61: Around Dubrovnik Left Old Harbour R
- Page 62 and 63: Around Dubrovnik Fall of the Republ
- Page 64 and 65: Around Dubrovnik Left Church of St
- Page 66 and 67: Around Dubrovnik Left Troubadur Har
- Page 68 and 69: Around Dubrovnik Left Lokrum Right
- Page 70 and 71: Around Dubrovnik Left Mea Culpa Mid
- Page 76 and 77: Around Northern Dalmatia Church of
- Page 78 and 79: Around Northern Dalmatia Left Otavi
- Page 80 and 81: Around Northern Dalmatia Left Sunse
- Page 82 and 83: Around Central Dalmatia Left The fi
- Page 84 and 85: Around Central Dalmatia Franciscan
- Page 86 and 87: Around Central Dalmatia Left Hvar M
- Page 88 and 89: Around Central Dalmatia Bavice, Spl
- Page 92 and 93: Around Southern Dalmatia Left Pelje
- Page 94 and 95: Around Southern Dalmatia Marco Polo
- Page 96 and 97: Around Southern Dalmatia Left Bust
- Page 98 and 99: Around Southern Dalmatia Left Massi
- Page 101 and 102: StreetSmart General Information 100
- Page 103 and 104: Left Tourist information office Rig
- Page 105 and 106: Left Domestic ferry Right Sailing G
- Page 107 and 108: Left ATM Middle Internet café Righ
- Page 109 and 110: Left Multi-lingual accommodation si
- Page 111 and 112: View from the Excelsior, Dubrovnik
- Page 113 and 114: Jadran, ibenik Northern Dalmatian H
- Page 115 and 116: Liburna, Korula Town Southern Dalma
- Page 117 and 118: Stone Cottages, Kornati Islands Isl
- Page 119 and 120: Camping Trsteno, Trsteno Self-cater
- Page 121 and 122: Cavtat 93 cafés, bars and nightlif
The Sea Gate, Zadar Old Town<br />
Zadar Old Town<br />
Having hauled itself back from<br />
economic meltdown in the 1990s,<br />
Zadar is once again a buzzing<br />
Adriatic city, complete with an<br />
attractive old core which juts out<br />
confidently on its own peninsula.<br />
This compact <strong>and</strong> largely pedestrianized<br />
area holds the city’s main<br />
attractions, including a Roman<br />
forum <strong>and</strong> the remarkable Church<br />
of St Donat’s (see pp30–31).<br />
Šibenik Old Town<br />
Given Šibenik’s unique<br />
position as a city that was<br />
founded <strong>and</strong> developed by the<br />
early Croats rather than the<br />
Romans or Venetians, it comes<br />
as no surprise that its old core<br />
is markedly different from the<br />
st<strong>and</strong>ard Adriatic template. The<br />
buildings are smaller, <strong>and</strong> the<br />
streets far narrower <strong>and</strong> tighterknit<br />
– a real warren, in<br />
which it is easy to slip<br />
back, in your imagination,<br />
through the centuries. In<br />
the streets below the<br />
castle, forget your map<br />
<strong>and</strong> just w<strong>and</strong>er – but<br />
don’t miss the Cathedral<br />
of St James (see pp28–9,<br />
37). Map C4 • Tourist info:<br />
Fausta Vrania 18. 022 212 075<br />
Krka National Park<br />
This natural playground of<br />
pools, waterfalls <strong>and</strong> emerald<br />
lakes makes for a perfect daytrip.<br />
On a hot day, bring your<br />
swimwear, as the boat that<br />
brings you into the park from<br />
Skradin drops you off near<br />
Skradinski Buk, the best place in<br />
the park to cool off in the clear<br />
waters of the Krka River. The park<br />
is well prepared for tourism, with<br />
further boats heading off in search<br />
of Visovac Monastery, Krka<br />
Monastery <strong>and</strong> the waterfalls at<br />
Roški Slap – not to mention<br />
restaurants, cafés, ice cream stalls<br />
<strong>and</strong> souvenir shops (see pp20–21).<br />
Paklenica National Park<br />
Designated a national park<br />
in 1949, Paklenica has become<br />
the destination of choice for savvy<br />
Slovene <strong>and</strong> Italian climbers <strong>and</strong><br />
walkers. This protected wilderness<br />
of vaulting limestone peaks rises<br />
from the coast through two<br />
sweeping gorges, which just beg<br />
to be explored. Velika Paklenica<br />
is perfect for day-trippers <strong>and</strong><br />
walkers, while the more rustic<br />
<strong>and</strong> challenging charms of Mala<br />
Paklenica attract serious outdoor<br />
types. A network of lodges <strong>and</strong><br />
mountain huts allows exploration<br />
of the higher peaks, though all<br />
the usual precautions, as well as<br />
local advice, should be taken (see<br />
p52). Map B2 • Park Office: Franje<br />
Tumana 14a, Starigrad-Paklenica. 230<br />
369 202. www.paklenica.hr • Adm charge<br />
Lilies in the Botanical Gardens, Paklenica National Park<br />
Around Northern Dalmatia<br />
For the stunnning Kornati National Park See pp26–7, 77<br />
73