Dubrovnik and Dalmacija travel guide

Around Dubrovnik
Fall of the Republic
Dubrovnik was always proud of
its libertas, but on 26 May 1806 it
risked it in return for French
assistance in lifting a siege by
Russian and Montenegrin forces.
The French outstayed their
welcome, and on 31 January
1808 the Republic of Ragusa was
officially dissolved as Dubrovnik
became part of Napoleon’s
“Illyrian Provinces”.
Old Harbour
Dubrovnik’s first harbour
stood to the west side of the
city, between the Pile Gate and
the Lovrijenac Fortress, but it
failed to offer sufficient shelter,
and in any case soon became
too small as the city grew. The
Old Harbour, on the east side of
the Old City, is a much grander
affair, with the Revelin and St
John’s forts guarding either flank.
Amenities are limited here, but
there are one or two places to
eat, and take in the busy
summer scene; there’s always a
flurry of small fishing boats and
tourist craft enjoying the
harbour’s protection, and there
are good views down the coast
towards Cavtat. Map K5
War Photo Limited
Not many tourists make it to
this controversial new museum,
mistakenly believing that they
are going to be presented with
a biased depiction of the war in
Croatia. In reality, the main
War Photo Limited
exhibit takes an impartial and
thought-provoking look at the
conflicts that have battered the
region since 1991. At the helm
is New Zealander Wade Goddard,
who has brought together two
floors of striking images that don’t
hold back on shocking detail, but
avoid the temptation to label and
judge. It is perhaps the ultimate
tribute to the gallery that while
many Croats feel it is too pro-
Serb, many Serbs feel it is too
pro-Croat. The gallery itself is
a well thought-out space that
allows the photographs to speak
for themselves. Antuninska 6
Map H4 020 322 166 www.warphoto
ltd.com May–Oct: 9am–9pm daily;
Nov–Dec, Mar–Apr: 9am–4pm Mon–Sat
(closed Jan, Feb) Adm charge
Olive Trees by Ignat Job, Museum of
Modern Art
Museum of Modern Art
This avant-garde gallery
is housed in an enormous
Renaissance-style villa set in a
prime spot in affluent Ploe. The
light and airy multi-floored venue
makes the perfect setting for an
eclectic array of permanent and
temporary exhibitions. Look out
for sculptures by Ivan Meštrovi
(1883–1962) (see p40), portraits
by the Cavtat-born Vlaho Bukovac
(1855–1922), and the work of
Frano Kršini (1897–1982), another
renowned Croatian sculptor, from
Lumbarda in Korula. Frana Supila
23 Map M5 020 426 590 9am–9pm
daily Adm charge
60