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Dubrovnik and Dalmacija travel guide

traveling to Dubrovnik and looking for bars, restaurants, history and best things to do in Dalmatia and Dubrovnik

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Taverna Rustica,<br />

<strong>Dubrovnik</strong><br />

Part of the Excelsior Hotel but<br />

breaking the traditional hotelrestaurant<br />

mould, this cosy<br />

retreat beyond the Ploe Gate<br />

has a snug “couples” area,<br />

where diners just call when they<br />

need a waiter. Cuisine-wise, the<br />

emphasis is on stylishly prepared<br />

(<strong>and</strong> none too rustic) Dalmatian<br />

fish <strong>and</strong> meat specialities. If the<br />

conversation falters, the stunning<br />

views of the old town should be<br />

a good talking point (see p69).<br />

Atlas Club Nautika,<br />

<strong>Dubrovnik</strong><br />

Long the most famous restaurant<br />

in the city, Atlas Club Nautika has<br />

many would-be detractors, but it<br />

usually hits the spot for most<br />

diners. The menu nods towards<br />

the Adriatic, but there are also<br />

meat <strong>and</strong> vegetarian dishes. Vying<br />

for centre stage, though, are the<br />

wonderful views, with the old<br />

town to one side <strong>and</strong> Lovrijenac<br />

Fortress to the other (see p69).<br />

Restaurant Fontana, Trogir<br />

Restaurant Fontana, Trogir<br />

Unlike many restaurants on<br />

the Dalmatian coast, the Fontana<br />

– the best restaurant in Trogir –<br />

stays open year round. In winter<br />

it retreats to a cosy interior; in<br />

the warmer months it explodes<br />

out onto the waterfront Riva.<br />

The speciality, unsurprisingly,<br />

is seafood (see p87).<br />

Top 10 Culinary<br />

Highlights<br />

Adriatic Platter<br />

A generic term for a feast<br />

of Adriatic fish <strong>and</strong> shellfish,<br />

usually grilled (na žaru), <strong>and</strong><br />

served with garlic, lemon,<br />

potatoes <strong>and</strong> mangold (blitva).<br />

Ston Oysters (Otrige)<br />

Head to Mali Ston for<br />

divine oysters straight from<br />

the beds just offshore.<br />

Pag Cheese (Paki Sir)<br />

Pag produces a distinctive<br />

salted sheep’s cheese – the<br />

finest cheese in the country.<br />

Seafood Risotto<br />

(Riot)<br />

You will find this dish featured<br />

on menus up <strong>and</strong> down the<br />

coast – a good-value meal.<br />

Dalmatian Ham (Pršut)<br />

This air-dried smoked ham,<br />

often served as a starter with<br />

Pag cheese, is arguably better<br />

than the Italian equivalent.<br />

Pag Lamb (Janjetina)<br />

Flavoursome lamb from<br />

the parched isle where the<br />

lambs feed on fresh herbs.<br />

Lobster (Jastog)<br />

Diners can often select<br />

their own lobster from the<br />

tank, usually served simply.<br />

Grilled Squid (Lignje<br />

na aru)<br />

Fresh squid grilled with garlic<br />

<strong>and</strong> garnished with squeezed<br />

lemon makes a delicious<br />

starter or main course.<br />

Istrian Truffles (Tartufi)<br />

From Croatian Istria, both<br />

white <strong>and</strong> black varieties are<br />

often a match for French <strong>and</strong><br />

Italian truffles.<br />

Scampi (Buzara)<br />

This rich <strong>and</strong> flavoursome<br />

seafood dish is a Dalmatian<br />

speciality. Scampi are gently<br />

simmered in a sauce of<br />

tomato, onion <strong>and</strong> herbs.<br />

For more restaurant listings See pp68, 69, 79, 87, 97<br />

<strong>Dubrovnik</strong> & the Dalmatian Coast<br />

49

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