Dubrovnik and Dalmacija travel guide

ibenik
above, a rambling fort watches
over the summer scene of
pavement cafés, fish restaurants
and bobbing tour boats. The main
square is dominated by the
imposing contours of St Stephen’s
Cathedral (see pp39, 84).
Kut (Vis Town)
Relatively few visitors have
discovered the historic Kut district
of Vis Town, with its outstanding
Renaissance triple-naved church,
Our Lady of Spilica, its swathe of
old Venetian merchant dwellings,
and its trio of first-rate restaurants.
In the ramble of narrow lanes near
the waterfront, old women hang
out their washing from balconies
built by wealthy Venetians, while
the local cats look on (see p84).
Šibenik
The most “Croatian” city on
the coast (in that it wasn’t built
by the Romans or the
Venetians), ibenik
boasts a charming old
town that rambles up
in search of the city’s
fort through a tangle
of narrow streets that
have not yet been airbrushed
for the needs
of mass tourism. The
Cathedral of St James,
over a hundred years
in the making, is its
glorious centrepiece
(see pp28–9, 73).
Pag Town
Pag’s compact old town is
largely the work of Dalmatian
architect Juraj Dalmatinac, who
expertly crafted a web of streets
designed to afford inhabitants
protection against the biting bora
winds from the north. On one
flank the Adriatic laps, while on
the other three the starched
white rocks of Pag island stretch
away towards the hulking
shadow of the distant Velebit
Mountains (see p77).
Lastovo Town
Unusually, Lastovo Town
turns its back on the Adriatic and
tumbles in the opposite direction.
Architecturally less ornate than
many other Dalmatian towns, its
most striking buildings are a group
of 20 or so Renaissance stone
houses, characterized by their
high, broad terraces (see p95).
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