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Your guide to 

CREATING A BIRD GARDEN 

ADVICE 

FOR ALL 

SEASONS 

Sponsored by

www.hawkeoptics.co.uk 

Contents 

Cover art by Steven Hall 

p4-6 

The 10 best plants for 

garden birds 

p8 

Home-making – how to get 

birds to nest in your garden 

WELCOME 

I 

EXPECT THAT LOTS of you already feed your 

garden birds – for many of us, it’s the thing that 

sparks an interest in birdwatching in the first place. 

But while whatever you do in the way of putting food 

out is good for them, including currently declining 

species, taking a broader view of your garden could take 

things to a whole new level, and ensure that a new world 

of nature opens out before you every time you open your back door. 

In this special guide, we’ll show you what to feed, and how, as well as how 

to provide homes for birds and other wildlife, how to create a garden full of 

natural food for your avian visitors, ways to deter unwanted visitors, and how 

to enjoy what you see to the full by catching it on camera. 

It needn’t cost you a fortune, either – as you’ll see, there are plenty of 

low-cost ideas that anyone can try. 

So, think about making your garden a little bit more bird-friendly today, 

and you might just be surprised at what turns up. When it does, remember 

that we want to hear about it at birdwatching@bauermedia.co.uk 

Matt Merritt, Editor 

p10-11 

Pond life – why a mini-wetland 

is great for all wildlife 

p12-13 

Feed me! Create 

an all-season 

buffet for birds 

p14 

Gourmet garden – your guide to feeding birds 

kitchen leftovers 

Your guide to 

CREATING A BIRD GARDEN 

is proudly sponsored by 


p17-18 

Picture this – record your 

garden wildlife on camera 

p21 

Safe havens – how to 

reduce the risk of 

predation in your garden 

birdwatching.co.uk 3

mediacolor's / Alamy 


Andrew Darrington / Alamy 

blickwinkel / Alamy 

1 

HAWTHORN 

This classic British hedgerow species has shiny 

red berries or haws, that are often still around for 

birds to eat as late as March, so it’s a valuable 

resource for Blackbirds, Redwings, Fieldfares, 

Starlings, Chaffinches and Greenfinches. In 

spring, the leaves are eaten by many caterpillars, 

which in turn provide food for baby birds. 

2 

IVY 

This might be the best single plant of all. Its flowers attract insects which 

are eaten by Wrens and Robins in autumn, its black berries (which appear in 

winter) are eaten by finches, thrushes, Starlings and Waxwings, and its dense 

foliage provides shelter for small birds to nest and shelter in, as well as being 

eaten by the caterpillars of the Holly Blue Butterfly. It needs to be trained 

against a wall or tree, and be careful to keep it in check, as left to its own 

devices it spreads everywhere. 

Teasels are renowned as great 

favourites of Goldfinches, and 

their popularity in gardens is one 

reason for the species’ expansion 

in numbers 

Richard Griffin / Alamy 

Creating a 

WILDLIFE HAVEN 

Habitat is important for birds’ long-term survival and here are 10 plants 

that no wildlife-friendly garden should be without 

AS you’ll see, feeders, nestboxes and a variety of other accessories can 

all be extremely valuable for attracting birds into your garden, and 

encouraging them to stay. But if you’re thinking long-term, then 

you also need to ensure that your garden has the right mixture of 

trees, plants and shrubs. Pick the right ones, and you can ensure 

that birds have good cover for nesting and as a refuge from 

predators, food in the form of berries, fruits and seeds, and 

further food in the form of insects – vital to young birds. 

Here are 10 garden necessities for birds… 

3 

HONEYSUCKLE 

A great option if space is tight, because like Ivy it’s a climber that can 

be trained up any wall or fence. Its berries are eaten by warblers such as 

Blackcap, plus Bullfinches and thrushes. Better still, it looks great, and 

its flowers attract insects which are food for a wide range of birds. 

4 

ROWAN 

Different varieties 

produce berries at 

different times, from late 

July right through to 

November, but all are 

great favourites with 

thrushes of all kinds, 

and Waxwings. It can 

grow into a big enough 

tree to bear the nests of 

a number of species, too, 

but you’ll need a fair bit 

of space as it can spread 

quite considerably. 

Kathy deWitt / Alamy 

Robert Matton AB / Alamy 

5 

TEASEL 

Teasels are renowned as great favourites of 

Goldfinches, and their popularity in gardens is 

one reason for the species’ expansion in numbers 

and range in recent decades. The seedheads form 

in early autumn and can last until the end of the 

year, and will also attract other species. 

6 HOLLY 

The berries are eaten by Blackbirds, Song 

Thrushes, Mistle Thrushes, Fieldfares and 

Redwings, among others, although they may wait 

until late winter before 

doing so (the berries 

ripen by autumn). 

They also provide 

good cover. You need 

a female plant to produce 

berries, but you also need 

a male nearby to 

ensure pollination. 

Kristy Durbridge / Alamy 

David Chapman / Alamy 

4 Garden Bird Guide 2017

Cotoneaster's 

popularity in car parks 

has made them the 

prime spots for finding 

the eastern ‘invaders’ 

Rex May / Alamy Andrew Darrington / Alamy 

COTONEASTER 

7 Another shrub beloved of Waxwings – its 

popularity in car parks has made them the prime 

spots for finding the eastern ‘invaders’. It produces 

small red berries from autumn onwards, which are 

also popular with Blackbirds, and Song and Mistle 

Thrushes, and all species tend to home in on them 

early, so they’re often stripped of all fruit by the 

start of winter. 

GUELDER ROSE 

8 A native shrub which bear clusters of glossy 

berries from late October right through the winter, 

making it an invaluable food resource for many 

birds, including Mistle Thrushes. It can be used as 

a hedging plant, where it provides plenty of cover, 

and you'll find that the white flowers are 

particularly attractive to hoverflies. 

Various varieties of 

rose produce hips 

which can feed birds 

SUNFLOWER 

9 You only have to watch how popular sunflower 

seeds are in your feeders to know that this is a 

must for any wildlife garden. You need a sunny 

area, and it’s useful to have something to tie the 

stalks to (or to stake them), if they really start to 

grow. At the end of summer, the flowers fade to 

leave large seedheads that provide oil-rich 

nourishment for Long-tailed Tits, Nuthatches, 

finches and other seed-eaters. 

SHRUB ROSE 

10 The rose hips produced by different 

varieties are eaten by a number of species, with 

the smaller hips of the Dog Rose being particularly 

popular, as they stay ripe right through the winter. 

The Hedging Rose gives larger hips, generally 

taken by Blackbirds, Fieldfares and Mistle Thrushes. 

TRY THIS 

é COTONEASTER 

A Redwing feasting on 

Cotoneaster berries 

Any wildlife garden also benefits from leaving some 

areas – and they don’t have to be big – to grow a 

little wild. Even weeds can play their part, as many 

have seeds that are eagerly eaten by birds. 

But the best way to do it is by creating a wild 

flower patch. You can use nutrient-poor soils, as they 

are less likely to get grasses taking over and 

smothering everything else. All you need is an open, 

sunny patch of garden, where the grass has been 

cleared or is sparse, then in spring, sow wildflower 

seeds (many manufacturers produce their own mix), 

at roughly 1.5g per square metre, covering them with 

a fairly light scattering of soil. 

To prevent grass spreading into the patch, plant 

Yellow Rattle around the edges, as this is a 

grass-parasite that will kill off any unwanted growth. 

Sit back, and by midsummer you should have a 

blaze of colour that attracts insects, including 

bumblebees, which need all the help they can get. 

Organics image library / Alamy 



HOME from HOME 

Follow these hints and tips to create a home for birds in your garden 

MANY BIRD species readily use artificial 

nestboxes, from Blue Tits right up to Barn 

Owls and Kestrels, but you might want 

to concentrate your efforts on those birds whose 

population has been declining in part because 

of the lack of nest sites – Starlings and House 

Sparrows are just two of these. Different types of 

nestbox suit different species – tits, for example, 

like closed-front boxes with small entrance holes, 

while Robins prefer an open fronted nestbox. 

Firstly, though, remember some basics. 

Nestboxes are best put up during the autumn. 

1 At this time, and through the winter, birds 

enter nestboxes looking for places to roost. Once 

they know the box is there, they may well use it 

to nest in the following spring. Similarly, clean any 

existing boxes out in early autumn, using a wire 

brush, warm water and dilute detergent, 

so birds can investigate them thoroughly. 

Face the box between north and east, as this 

2 should avoid the worst of the prevailing winds, 

as well as strong direct sunlight all day. Tilt the box 

forward slightly to prevent rain getting in. 

Place out of reach of predators – this means 

3 avoiding spots on trees where a squirrel or cat 

could easily gain access. You also need to place 

where the nest is likely to get the least 

disturbance, although some species, such as 

Robins, are willing to tolerate the close proximity 

of humans. Some closed-front nestboxes come with 

reinforced entrance holes, to make it harder for 

woodpeckers to gain access (they will eat eggs and 

nestlings), but if yours hasn’t, you can buy steel 

plates that fit round the entrance hole and serve 

the same purpose. 

To attract birds in, you will 

probably need to play a 

recording of a Swift’s call 

Make sure that the birds have a clear flight path 

4 to the nest – a little cover is fine, but they don’t 

want to have to dodge a lot of clutter. This is also 

important when the young birds are leaving the 

nest, although some ledges, branches or similar 

perches in close proximity will help them when 

they take their first flights. 

Pick the right height. Boxes for Robins and 

5 Wrens need to be below 2m, well hidden in 

vegetation. Boxes for tits, sparrows and Starlings 

need to be 2-4m up. Boxes for Spotted Flycatchers 

need to be 2-4m high, sheltered by vegetation, with 

a clear outlook. Woodpecker boxes should be 3-5m 

high on a tree trunk. 

Some species, such as House and Tree 

6 Sparrows, and Starlings, nest in loose colonies, 

so if there’s plenty of natural food you can site their 

boxes close together. 

Attach nestboxes to trees with a nylon bolt or 

7 with wire around the trunk or branch. Use a 

piece of hose or section of car tyre around the wire 

to prevent damage to the tree. Check the fixing 

every year, as the tree grows. 

Don’t forget to use your house. House Sparrows, 

8 Starlings and House Martins will use nestboxes 

high up under the eaves. Site two or three spaced 

out on the same side of the house, away from any 

natural House Martin nests. 

And don’t forget Swifts. Special boxes can be 

9 fitted under the eaves, but to attract birds in, 

you will probably need to play a recording of a 

Swift’s call. Without it, the birds may take a long 

time to find the box. 

Be patient. It can take a while for birds to 

10 cotton on to the fact that nestboxes are 

available, so don’t be put off if they’re not used 

the first spring they’re in place. And be 

ready for species other than the ones you 

intended to use boxes – tits will use sparrow 

boxes, for example. 

Finally, don’t expect too much. Although 

providing nest sites is a huge help to birds, the 

number of pairs of any one species nesting in your 

garden will also depend on the available food 

supply. That’s not to say it hurts to overdo things a 

little bit – birds will appreciate an extra choice of 

sites, and nestboxes that remain unused one year 

may be used the next. 

é BLUE TIT BOX 

Blue Tits and Great Tits favour 

boxes with small round holes 

ê STARLING 

Starlings will use nestboxes 

mounted under eaves 

Anthony J. Hall LRPS LBPPA / Alamy 

John Gooday / Alamy 



POND LIFE 

If you’re serious about creating a garden that will attract birds 

then make sure building a pond is top of your ‘to do’ list 

IN Bird Watching magazine’s Create Your Garden Patch 

From Scratch series last year, we recommended that one 

of the first things you do is to create a pond. Well, we 

make no apologies for repeating ourselves – you really do 

need to. Even a small pond gives your garden birds 

somewhere to drink and bathe, and can provide a home 

for a wealth of insect life that, in turn, provides food for 

birds. And looking at wildlife more broadly, you should 

also be able to attract some amphibians. 

It’s best done in late autumn or winter, 

because that will give time for vegetation to 

grow in and around the pond, and because 

the ground is likely to be a lot softer for 

digging! Here’s our step-by-step guide to 

creating your own mini-wetland… 

1 

Dig an irregular-shaped hole (ours 

was tadpole-shaped, 2m x 0.75m), for 

a more natural look. It doesn’t have 

to be too deep (50cm is fine), but should 

slope from one end to the other, with a 

shallow end giving easy access for birds. 

Use a spirit level to check the sides are 

level – if they aren’t, build up one side 

with soil from the hole. 

2 

Line the hole, ideally with a sturdy 

piece of carpet, which will protect 

the liner from punctures caused by 

stones and roots. Cut the carpet roughly 

to size, then tread it down carefully until 

it’s a snug fit. You can slit any of the 

inevitable bulges, then flatten them out 

by overlapping the cut edges. 

3 

Buy a good quality waterproof liner, 

with plenty of spare material around 

the edges. You need it to be at least 

half as big again as the bare dimensions 

of your pond. You should partly fill the 

pond with water at this point, to weigh 

the liner down and help it to sit tightly 

against the sides of the hole. 

4 

Trim the liner 

to the shape of 

the hole, 

leaving a fringe of 

60cm or so around 

the edges – this can 

be covered up later. 

With a spade, make 

an incision about 

6cm back from the 

edge of the pond, 

then hold the gap 

open with the spade. Tuck the liner into 

the incision as tightly as you can – this 

will hold it firmly in place, and make it 

easier to cover up. 

Ponds provide food and 

give birds somewhere to 

drink and bathe 

5 

Start to cover over the edges of the 

liner with the soil you dug out – it 

can be scattered pretty loosely to 

start with, allowing you to make 

adjustments as you go along. Stones and 

pebbles around some of the edges anchor 

the liner further, and provide perches for 

birds to use as they drink. 

6 

Flatten out the 

soil that you 

dug out – if 

you’re going to 

attract wildlife to 

use the pond 

safely, you don’t 

want them having to 

negotiate steep sides. 

Break up the dug earth by 

placing rocks here and there around the 

perimeter of the pond, to provide perches 

for birds to drink from. 


Moodboard / Alamy 

7 

At least a couple of rocks in the 

pond, poking up above the water, 

are a good idea. If necessary, rest 

them on bricks or stones well below the 

surface, to reach the required height. A 

few logs around the water’s edge, some of 

them reaching into the water, will 

provide breeding areas for insects as they 

start to decompose. 

8 

Create 

an easy way into your pond, 

so that birds, amphibians and 

mammals have another 

straightforward access point – smallish 

pebbles are ideal for this. Once you’ve got 

the pebbles in place, you can arrange 

them so that they form a gentle gradient 

leading in to the water. 

9 

Now you’re ready to start adding 

some vegetation. If you can get 

some from a friend’s pond, you’ll be 

able to ‘seed’ your pond with insect 

larvae from their plants, and remember 

to tip in the pond water that they came 

in, too, as it’s rich in nutrients, seeds and 

larvae. Water Soldiers, which float freely 

in the water, are a great start. 

10 

Sedges and similar plants will 

need to be rooted in a little soil 

– use some clods of earth left 

over from the earlier digging. Add more 

plants than you think you’ll need, 

because of casualties early on. Water 

Mint and Water Forget-me-not are good 

choices, too, plus Marsh Marigolds. 

Give wildlife a 

straightforward access 

point into your pond 

Organics image library / Alamy 

WHAT NEXT? 

Sit and wait. Birds, mammals, insects 

1 and amphibians need time to realise 

there’s a new pond on the block, but it’s 

truly astonishing how quickly frogs, in 

particular, come to realise there’s 

potential new habitat. Ours was 

nowhere near any decent-sized water 

body, yet within a couple of months half 

a dozen frogs had moved in. Even if 

you’re not enamoured of them, they eat 

slugs and other garden pests, so they’re 

great to have around. 

Plant around the edges of the 

2 pond, to create plenty of cover for 

amphibians. Wildflowers are a good 

choice, because they’ll attract insects 

and thus birds, but you can also add 

ornamental grasses, stonecrops (which 

are very, very easy to care for), ferns, or 

whatever takes your fancy. An 

amphibian refuge or two is also a good 

idea – you can buy them, but an old 

ridged roofing tile will do the job, 

covered with a little soil. 

Be brutal. When more than half the 

3 surface gets covered by plants 

(duck weed is a particularly fast 

spreader), pull some out, and do the 

same with underwater plants. Getting 

rid of this excess growth will keep algae 

down and prevent your pond turning 

into a puddle. Do this after the hatching 

of larvae of damselflies and dragonflies 

is over. 

Tony Watson / Alamy 

Francisco Martinez / Alamy 

10 Garden Bird Guide 2017 


FEEDERS 

FOOD 

and 

Tough feeding conditions put our garden birds’ 

lives at risk – here’s how you can help them 

However well you’ve done in creating a 

wildlife-friendly garden, birds also benefit 

There’s a huge variety of bird food 

brands and varieties on the market, so take 

the time to look at which birds you already 

get in your garden, and which ones you 

know are close by and would like to entice 

into paying a visit. 

Basically, smaller seeds, such as millet, 

attract sparrows, finches, Dunnocks, 

buntings and pigeons, while peanuts and 

sunflower seeds are popular with tit and 

Greenfinches. Pinhead oatmeal is excellent 

for a wide range of birds. 

Avoid wheat and barley grains, unless 

you particularly want to attract pigeons 

and Pheasants – these species, though, can 

deter smaller visitors. Also avoid seed 

mixes that contain split peas, beans, dried 

rice or lentils, as only the large species can 

eat them dry. 

So, here’s the essentials that should 

ensure every garden gets a good range and 

number of visiting birds… 

Superstock / Alamy 

hugely from you putting out food especially 

for them. In winter and early spring, when 

natural food can be scarce, it can help them 

survive, but it’s equally important during the 

breeding season, as it means that adult birds can 

spend all their time foraging for insect food for their 

youngsters and can fill themselves up on what you put out. 

ALL-SEASON SEED MIX 

1 It’s always a good idea to have plenty of 

an all-round seed mix handy – this will be 

attractive to many species, at most if not 

all times of year. It can be used in a normal 

seed feeder. 

BLACK SUNFLOWER SEEDS 

2 Excellent all year round, and the black 

variety have a higher oil content than the 

striped ones, and so are of greater 

nutritional value. Sunflower hearts 

(husked kernels) are also very popular 

because the birds can feed on them 

quickly, with no mess. 

NIGER SEEDS 

3 Small and black, with a high oil 

content. They’re very popular with 

Goldfinches and Siskins, and may have 

played a large part in the former’s success 

in recent decades, but you will need a 

specialised feeder for them. 

4 PEANUTS 

Rich in fat, they’re liked 

by tits, Greenfinches, 

House Sparrows, 

Nuthatches, Great 

Spotted Woodpeckers 

and Siskins, while 

crushed or grated nuts 

attract Robins, 

Dunnocks and Wrens. 

Salted or dry roasted 

peanuts should never be 

used. Peanuts can be high 

in aflatoxin, so buy from a 

reputable dealer, and also 

check them carefully for signs 

of mould, etc. 

A Great Tit hangs from 

a coconut feeder 

LIVE FOODS AND 

5 OTHER INSECT FOODS 

Mealworms are loved by Robins, plus Blue 

Tits and even the likes of Pied Wagtails. 

They can be used throughout the year, but 

they’re not cheap. Make sure that any 

mealworms you buy are fresh. Weed out 

any dead or discoloured ones as they can 

cause poisoning. Dried mealworms can 

also be bought – these need to be 

rehydrated before they can be fed to birds. 

BIRD CAKE AND FOOD BARS 

6 Fat balls are excellent winter food. If 

they come in nylon mesh bags, always 

remove the bag before putting the fat ball 

out – the mesh can trap and injure birds. 

Tim Gainey / Alamy 


Simon Burns / Alamy 

TYPES OF FEEDERS 

Again, there’s a huge variety on the 

market, but you'll find they fall into a few 

broad categories. 

A general seed feeder will have a number 

of ports to allow several birds to feed at 

once, and the most common types have a 

clear plastic central tube so that you can 

see how much is being taken and whether 

the food has become mouldy. 

Nut feeders are more often made of a 

rigid wire mesh, so that birds can peck off 

chunks of nuts from within the central 

tube itself. 

Niger seed feeders are specially designed 

for this particular food, with smaller 

feeding ports, and it's worth investing in 

one or two if you really want to get 

Goldfinches (and Siskins, in some areas) 

into your garden. 

Suet feeders come in two main types. 

One, for suet cakes and the like, has large 

wire compartments that allow the birds to 

peck at the cake in place, while there are 

also cage feeders used for suet pellets. 

Again, they have no feeding ports and the 

birds peck in between the mesh. 

Whichever type you’re buying, pay close 

attention to how easy the feeder will be to 

take apart and clean. Most break down 

easily into a few parts, and can then be 

cleaned thoroughly, and this is one of the 

most important (but often overlooked) 

aspects of feeding garden birds. 

Don't place feeders too near to 

trees, making it easy for squirrels 

Some species, such as Greenfinches and 

Chaffinches, have suffered badly in recent 

years from diseases that spread among 

them at feeders, so clean yours weekly (or 

even more often in hot weather), using 

WHERE TO PUT YOUR FEEDERS 

There are several things to bear in mind 

here. One is that birds are naturally 

cautious, and will want to enter your 

garden in steps. So, position your feeders 

where birds will be able to approach 

slowly. Close to bushes and shrubs which 

themselves are closer to larger trees, is 

ideal, as the birds then have nearby cover 

into which to flee should a predator such 

as a Sparrowhawk arrive. Don’t place them 

too close to trees and bushes, though, as 

these could provide cover for cats and 

squirrels, and also allow squirrels to leap 

onto the feeders themselves. A couple of 

metres away from vegetation is fine. 

Move them as regularly as you can 

(easily done if you’re hanging them from 

a bird feeding station or central pole), to 

avoid a build-up of spilt seed on the ground 

below, attracting vermin, and don’t place 

Allow birds to escape 

from predators like 

Sparrowhawk 


Goldfinches can be suckers 

for niger seeds 

either warm water and a very dilute 

detergent, or a specialist cleaning spray 

available from many garden centres. Let 

the feeders dry thoroughly before you 

reassemble them. 

them too close to the house, if you can 

help it. While garden birds will quickly 

become used to your presence, they can be 

put off by regular disturbance, and even 

human movement within 

a lighted house can 

be a deterrent. 

WHAT ELSE DO I NEED TO HELP BIRDS? 

Above all, birds need water. If you’re creating your own pond, that’s great, but even then a 

bird bath is a good supplement and will enable them to drink and bathe without having to 

descend to ground level. Keep a close eye on it for algae, and wash regularly as you would a 

feeder, and in winter make sure that the water doesn’t freeze over – placing a tennis ball or 

similar in the bath can stop ice building up. 



12 Garden Bird Guide 2017 



Gourm et GARDEN 

It’s very tempting to feed your garden birds with whatever food scraps you have left 

over in your kitchen, but not all of it is suitable for them. Here’s a guide... 

MAKE A BIRD CAKE 

Pour melted fat (suet or lard) onto seeds, nuts, 

dried fruit, oatmeal, cheese and cake, with 

roughly a third fat to two-thirds mixture. Stir 

well, and allow to set in a container. You can put 

it out on your table or feeder, or fill half a coconut 

shell with it. 

KEEP COCONUT FRESH 

Fresh coconut, in the shell, is 

great. Get rid of any sweet 

coconut water before 

hanging it out to prevent 

the build-up of mould. 

But you must never use 

desiccated coconut – it 

can swell inside a bird 

and cause death. 

Pictures: Dorling Kindersley ltd, Dorling Kindersley ltd, Cn Boon, incamerastock, David Cook / blueshiftstudios, David Lee, Li Ding / Alamy. 

KITCHEN waste can be a very valuable resource for garden birds, but 

sometimes it can also pose a danger. Follow these simple guidelines 

to prevent any problems. 

AVOID MOULDY, STALE FOOD 

Mould can cause respiratory infections in birds, 

and if it starts to become a problem on your 

garden, you’re probably putting too much food out 

in the first place. Stale food can be a breeding 

ground for bacteria such as Salmonella, which has 

sadly caused considerable mortality in species 

such as Greenfinch. 

COOK RICE, DON’T COOK OATS 

Cooked rice, brown or white (but unsalted) will 

be taken by most species in winter, but uncooked 

rice will probably only attract pigeons. Porridge 

oats must never be cooked – they turn glutinous 

and harden around a bird’s beak – but uncooked 

oats are taken by a number of species. If you put 

breakfast cereal out, keep the quantity small, and 

keep it dry, with drinking water nearby. 

NO TO MILK, YES PLEASE TO CHEESE 

Milk can cause stomach upsets or even death 

in many species, but birds can digest fermented 

dairy products such as cheese, and mild cheese 

(grated, preferably), can attract Robins, 

Dunnocks and Wrens. 

AVOID VEGETABLE OIL AND 

POLYUNSATURATED FATS 

As well as being unsuitable nutritionally 

for birds, they can become smeared onto 

feathers, destroying their waterproofing and 

insulating qualities. 

AVOID COOKING FATS 

Cooked fat (from roasting tins, for example) can 

smear on birds’ feathers and damage them, 

reducing their waterproofing, because the fat is 

blended with meat juices, etc. These also make it a 

breeding ground for bacteria. Lard and beef suet on 

their own are fine, as they re-solidify after 

warming, and bacon rind is OK in small quantities. 

DOG AND CAT FOOD 

Tinned dog and cat food can be 

a substitute for worms during a 

summer dry spell, when the 

latter are hard to find. Blackbirds 

will even feed it to their chicks. 

Dry biscuits are not 

recommended, as birds may choke 

on them. Soaked dog biscuit is fine, 

but any pet food can attract corvids, gulls, 

cats, rats and other pests, so be careful. 

BREAD 

It’s not bad for birds, exactly, it just isn’t 

much good. They derive little nutritional value 

from it, and they’d be better off finding other 

food sources. 


WATCHING YOUR GARDEN’S 

wildlife 


ONCE YOU’VE created a garden that’s 

attractive to wildlife, it’s time to sit back 

and enjoy it. The great thing is, you’ll be 

watching at close quarters, and you literally can sit 

down and let the birds and other creatures come 

to you. Unless you’ve got a very large garden, a 

spotting scope isn’t really necessary, but a good 

pair of binoculars will quickly prove their worth, 

allowing you to pick out the smallest details, and 

even to read identification rings on birds that visit. 

The default birders’ size of 8x42 is probably your 

best bet, given that you don’t need to worry too 

much about size and weight, but you do want 

something that combines a good field of view with 

brightness and reasonable magnification. Hawke’s 

Frontier EDs (see panel), are a great example. 

Try to keep your binoculars where they’re 

always close to hand. That way, if a Nuthatch 

drops onto your feeders while you’re washing up, 

for example, you’ll be sure of great views. It’s a 

good idea, though, to find a good regular spot to 

watch from. A garden shed with a window or 

half-door is ideal, or you could invest in one of the 

many portable photographic hides on the market, 

and leave it set up in a quiet corner of the garden. 

You need to be patient once you’ve entered the 

hide, but it will quickly pay dividends. 

Neither option is going to be too appealing in 

winter, though, so find a good spot in the house to 

watch from. You’ll get a better view from an open 

window than through glass, but whichever you 

prefer, the golden rules are not to have any lights 

on (they allow birds to see every movement in the 

house, and that will make them nervous), don’t 

make any loud noises, and sit still. In fact, that’s a 

good rule with any sort of birdwatching – sit 

down, and you’ll be surprised how quickly birds 

are willing to come very close, whereas an upright 

human figure is seen as a threat. 

Dawn and dusk are often the times of most 

avian activity, with the former particularly 

important as birds look to feed up after the night, 

but even if you can’t watch at those times, try to 

get into a routine of watching for the same 

duration at the same time of day – in the case of 

some species, that will allow you to get to know 

their routines. Starlings, for example, roost 

communally in autumn and winter, and will often 

visit feeders for a last binge before roosting. 

If you keep any kind of list of sightings, too (and 

doing so can help you get to know different 

species’ annual routines), try to log the weather 

conditions each day. You’ll soon notice patterns in 

which birds eat what, and in what weather, and 

you’ll be able to tailor what you put out 

accordingly. If you’re also getting non-avian 

visitors, a ‘trail’ camera or ‘camera trap’ is a great 

idea. These can be secured to trees, fence posts or 

the like, and are set up to automatically 

photograph or video whatever moves in front of 

them. Most also have night modes, so you can use 

them to get an idea of what’s in your garden at all 

hours. Hawke’s Nature Camera range (see panel) 

provide some great options. 

é GARDEN ATTRACTION 

Recording the birds that visit your 

garden enables you to understand 

more about their annual routine 

FLPA / Alamy 

FRONTIER ED 

NATURE CAMERA 

Hawke’s Frontier ED 8x42 

closed-hinge binoculars use 

extra-low dispersion glass for 

better clarity, have fully 

multi-coated optics to produce 

sharp images, close focus down 

to 2m (great if you’re insectwatching), 

have twist-up eye 

cups with position stops for eye 

relief, and are lightweight and 

rubber coated for harder wear. 

They cost £260. 

Hawke’s 14MP Nature Camera is 

£280, and has infrared LEDs to 

capture images and videos at night, 

a display screen to edit settings in 

the field, a wide angle PIR sensor 

(motion detector), burst, timelapse, 

time delay and duty time 

modes, a date, time, temperature 

and moon phase stamp, and is 

weatherproof and robust, coming 

with a two-year warranty. See what 

it can find in your garden. 



WHAT SHOULD 

I BE LOOKING FOR? 

The latest RSPB Big Garden Birdwatch, in January 

of this year, revealed that these are the 10 most 

commonly-seen garden birds in the UK 

Antje Schulte - Birds / Alamy 

David Hosking / Alamy 


HOUSE SPARROW 

1 Despite recent declines, this noisy, 

sociable bird is still widespread. Males 

have a grey cap, black bib and brown 

back, while females are duller. Both have 

chunky bills. 

2 STARLING 

Another species that has 

declined, but look out for small 

flocks visiting feeders, including 

youngsters. Iridescent plumage is 

distinctive, as is energetic, 

strutting walk. 

3 BLACKBIRD 

Males are 

unmistakable, with 

bright yellow bills and 

black plumage. Females 

and juveniles are largely 

brown with some 

speckling. Usually seen 

hopping on ground. 

John McKenna / Alamy 

4 

BLUE TIT 

Small and 

acrobatic, often 

hanging upsidedown 

on feeders. 

Blue cap, white and 

black face, and yellow 

front is utterly distinctive. 

5 WOODPIGEON 

Large and plump, with prominent white 

patch on neck and purple-ish breast. Often 

feeds below feeders. Makes a lot of wing 

noise on take-off. 

6 GOLDFINCH 

Small finch (look for 

conical, seed-eater’s bill), 

with yellow wing flashes, 

red face and black and 

white on head. Sociable, 

and attracted to niger seed 

feeders, thistles and teasels. 

Antje Schulte - Birds / Alamy 

incamerastock / Alamy 

7 ROBIN 

Red breast and face recognisable to 

all. Often on lawns and in borders 

feeding on worms, and will come close 

to you while you dig to take advantage 

of what you turn up. 

GREAT TIT 

8 Larger than Blue 

Tit. Black stripe down 

yellow breast, and black 

cap above white cheeks. 

A regular visitor to 

most feeders. 

9 CHAFFINCH 

Male is red, grey-blue, brown and 

green, female grey-brown. Can use most 

feeders, and most types of garden. 

10 LONG- 

TAILED TIT 

Most often seen in 

winter, in family 

parties of a dozen 

or so. Tail gives 

distinctive ‘flying 

teaspoon’ shape. 

Often nervous 

and flighty. 

Paul Miguel / Alamy Tim Gainey / Alamy Life on white / Alamy 




A SAFE HAVEN 

Help protect birds in your garden by reducing the risk of predation 

AWILDLIFE GARDEN will inevitably get 

some unwanted visitors – Grey Squirrels 

can monopolise your feeders, as well as 

preying on eggs and fledglings, and cats also take 

their toll on garden birds. 

The RSPB recommends a number of non-lethal 

ways to deter these visitors. 

SQUIRRELS 

Buy squirrel-resistant 

1 feeders – these have a cage 

around them. They’re not 

absolutely squirrel-proof, 

though, and small 

individuals can fit through. 

Fix a downwardopening 

cone or a 2 

biscuit tin to the pole 

below a bird table to 

prevent squirrels 

climbing. Vaseline on 

a smooth pole can also 

help stop them. 

Feeders with spring-loaded covers are available 

3 – the weight of the squirrel lowers the cover, 

preventing access to the food. 

Dust chilli powder or 

4 pepper sauce onto 

birdseed – birds aren’t 

affected by it, but squirrels 

will leave the food. 

Fix cones and 

5 baffles (use a 

plastic drinks bottle) 

to the string of 

a hanging feeder. 

CATS 

Surround an area with a chicken wire fence 

1 leaning outwards, or put plastic roll-up fencing 

on top of a wooden fence to prevent cats climbing 

over it. Taut wire or string fitted 10-15cm above a 

fence’s top makes it difficult for cats to balance. 

Place plastic bottles, half full of water, in 

2 borders. The light reflections are supposed to 

deter cats. Similarly, old CDs threaded on twine 

can be strung across borders or hung from 

trees, again to cause reflections. 

Spiked tree collars are available, to 

3 prevent cats climbing them, while, as 

with squirrels, a downward-opening cone or 

biscuit tin fixed to the pole below the bird 

table will prevent climbing, as will use of 

Vaseline or grease. 

Place clippings from thorny or spiky plants 

4 under your feeders and bushes – this will 

prevent cats from using these areas to stalk birds. 

Plenty of ground cover plants may also deter 

them. Scent deterrents, such as citronella, will 

also repel cats, or just use orange or lemon peel. 

Thorny and prickly plants such as Hawthorn, 

5 Holly, Berberis, Blackthorn and Blackberry 

can all be used to hedge off areas of 

the garden, although an obvious 

problem is that you need a way 

in and out yourself, and 

they’re not ideal with 

young children around. 

Use thorny plants like 

Blackberry (leaf above) 

or smelly ones like 

Lavender (below) 

PLANTS THAT DETER PESTS 

COLEUS CANINA 

Marketed under the names 

Pee-off and Scaredy-cat, it has a 

pungent odour that’s supposed 

to repel cats, dogs, rabbits and 

foxes. They can be bought as 

plug plants for around £10 for 

six, and prefer sunny areas, but 

need protection from frost (so 

you need a greenhouse or similar 

for the winter). They don’t smell 

that great to humans, in all 

honesty, so you won’t want them 

too close to the house. 

CURRY HERB AND 

LEMON BALM 

Curry Herb (Helichrysum 

Italicum) and Lemon Balm are 

strongly disliked by most cats, 

both because of their odour, and 

because the Curry Herb has a 

coarse texture that irritates 

them. Lemon Balm, too, is 

irritating to them if grown into 

tight bushes. Plant them around 

your boundary, or add to beds 

and borders, or you could grow a 

few in containers so you can 

move them 

to particular 

cat troublespots. 

Both are easy to grow, 

and Lemon Balm attracts bees 

and butterflies. 

ROSEMARY 

It’s essential if you’re cooking a 

leg of lamb, but cats hate the 

smell, so it can form excellent 

cat-deterring ground cover. It 

does prefer a warm, dry climate, 

so you might need to grow it in 

containers, but it 

can sometimes thrive on 

well-drained soil in a sunny spot. 

LAVENDER 

Again, cats hate the smell, so 

this is a great option for planting 

in your borders. The taller 

varieties are particularly useful, 

as cats don’t like to jump over 

something if they can’t see their 

landing spot, so let it grow a bit 

to deter them. It looks and smells 

great, too. 

From top to bottom, left to right: Justin Prenton, Zoonar GmbH, Ben Molyneux, 

Editorial Image LLC, Maxal Tamor, Europe-France / Alamy.

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