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380 ABOUND THE "WORLD. It was our purpose to have visited the plains of Marathon; the ruins of Corinth;- the isle of Salamis, memorable for the great battle in which the Persian fleet of Xerxes was defeated by the Greeks 480 B.C. ; and Eleusis, which introduced the famous Eleusinian mysteries into Athens as early as 1356 B.C. ; but brigandage presented a formidable obstacle. Political outlaws are a perpetual scourge to the country. The government, though practically absolute, fails to institute and perpetuate law and order. we turn from modern to ancient Greece. NAPLES. In sorrow The Bay of Naples hfts the soul in thought to such shimmering seas as are said to dot the summer-land scenery of angel realms. The city itself, crescent-formed, is backed by an amphitheater of hills and mountains, the rocky slopes of which are covered with sunny villas, and sprinkled with orange and lemon, with fig and oleander. Fanned by invigorating sea-breezes, and walled in the distance by the Apennines, Naples sits a very queen upon the edge of. crystal waters, unrivaled for the beauty of her situation. The streets are paved with lava, and in the winter season thronged with strangers. Traveling the narrow sidewalks, one feels continually cramped, and sighs for the roomy promenades of prairie cities in the West. Terraced toward St. Elmo, some of the houses seem chnging to rocky chffs. Certain streets actually lie hundreds of feet above their immediate neighbors. The dearth of fresh, handsome buildings, and modern works of art, creates a soul-longing, for which the magnificent discovery of Herculaneum and Pompeii, with their matchless treasures of antiquity, only in some measure compensate. The narrow, dingy streets, the high, palace-shaped, yet badly constructed dwelling-houses, with huge iron gates in front, flat roofs, and balconies projecting from nearly every window ; the neverceasing noise, the interminable ratthng of wheels during the
ITALY. 381 hours of day and night ; the insolent importunities of carriage-drivers, "with hordes of pitiable beggars combining the most cringing manners with malicious attempts and devices at extortion, — all present a life-picture any thing but attractive. GARIBALDI AND THE MONKS. Standing in the Palace Square one day with Signor Damiani, he pointed us to the balcony from which Garibaldi, in 1860, uttered this stirring sentence to an immense multitude — : " Brothers, believe me, the greatest foe to freedom, the greatest enemy of Italy, is the Pope of Rome." This liberator of the people, Garibaldi, drove into Naples, Sept. 6, in an open carriage, directly past the fortified barracks of the Carmine, where soldiers were still holding out for Francis II. Not a hair of his head was harmed. Victor Emmanuel offered to make him a duke, and give him a large pension. He declined the dukeship, declined all honors, only caring to see Italy free, united, and happy. Moping, brown-garbed, barefooted monks, a class of men that neither work nor wash, are as thick in Naples and the adjoining countrj- as office-seekers in Washington. Italy was a clover-field for gowned monks, and a veritable paradise for priests, till Garibaldi, a few years since, partially Thank aroused the people from their dream of submission. God ! say students and the young Italians of to-day, the number of these churchal orders is lessening each year. Many of these monks literally live by begging. Lifting their greasy caps, and exposing their shaved heads, they plead by the wayside for a penny. Beggars and priests are the products of Roman Catholic Italy. Papal Rome is the hub of this ecclesiastic wheel. Out of between twenty and thirty millions of Italians, hardly seven millions can read and write ! The bare state-
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ITALY. 381<br />
hours of day and night ; the insolent importunities of carriage-drivers,<br />
"with hordes of pitiable beggars combining the<br />
most cringing manners with malicious attempts and devices<br />
at extortion, — all present a life-picture any thing but<br />
attractive.<br />
GARIBALDI AND THE MONKS.<br />
Standing in the Palace Square one day with Signor<br />
Damiani, he pointed us to the balcony from which Garibaldi,<br />
in 1860, uttered this stirring sentence to an immense multitude<br />
—<br />
:<br />
" Brothers, believe me, the greatest foe to freedom, the greatest<br />
enemy of Italy, is the Pope of Rome."<br />
This<br />
liberator of the people, Garibaldi, drove into Naples,<br />
Sept. 6, in an open carriage, directly past the fortified<br />
barracks of the Carmine, where soldiers were still holding<br />
out for Francis II. Not a hair of his head was harmed.<br />
Victor Emmanuel offered to make him a duke, and give him<br />
a large pension. He declined the dukeship, declined all<br />
honors, only caring to see Italy free, united, and happy.<br />
Moping, brown-garbed, barefooted<br />
monks, a class of men<br />
that neither work nor wash, are as thick in Naples and the<br />
adjoining countrj- as office-seekers in Washington. Italy<br />
was a clover-field for gowned monks, and a veritable paradise<br />
for priests, till Garibaldi, a few years since, partially<br />
Thank<br />
aroused the people from their dream of submission.<br />
God ! say students and the young Italians of to-day, the<br />
number of these churchal orders is lessening each year.<br />
Many of these monks literally live by begging. Lifting<br />
their greasy caps, and exposing their shaved heads, they<br />
plead by the wayside for a penny. Beggars and priests are<br />
the products of Roman Catholic Italy. Papal Rome is the<br />
hub of this ecclesiastic wheel.<br />
Out of between twenty and thirty millions of Italians,<br />
hardly seven millions can read and write ! The bare state-