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CHAPTER XXVin. ATHENS. " Dream on sweet souls in purpling seas Till we reach the land of Pericles." In life's golden time, when listening to the academic declamations of students upon the heroism of the ancient Greeks, we dreamed of treading the shores of the classic land,— land once pre-eminent in poetry, philosophy, painting, and the fine arts, and whose republics voiced the heavenwinged words of equality and freedom. But the Greeks of to-day are ancient Greeks no more. Civilizations move in cycles and epicycles. The Grecian mind has been tending downwards for full two thousand years. Its present glory consists of its ancient ruins. A wizard hand, grayed and grim, ever points backward to lost arts, lost grandeur Do we not remember Byron, whose lamp of life faded . under the Grecian skies he so musical his lines — ! enthusiastically loved ? How " Know ye the land where the cypress and myrtle Are emblems of deeds that are done in their clime, Where the rage of the vulture, the love of the turtle, Now melt into sorrow, now madden to crime ? *Tis the clime of the East, — tis the land of the Sun Can he smile on such deeds as his children have done ? " PirsBus is the prominent port of Greece. Athens is five miles distant from this landing. There is a railroad. But here, here, is the once classic city. 378
ATHENS. 879 Never can we forget our sensations when casting a first glance at the Acropolis. Passing up the Propillion, or grand entrance, we had a fine view of Mars Hill, where Paul .preached the "Unknown God" to the Athenians. Two massive pillars of the Temple of Bacchus are still standing. There was a subterranean passage leading from this temple of mystic rites into the vast amphitheater. The Temple of Minerva and the Temple of the Winds are nearly piles of ruin. The Temple of the Muses, nine figures of choicest marble, must have been very beautiful. To the right of the Acropolis, massive and stately, is the Temple of Jupiter Olympus, many of whose proud columns, having defied the storms and devastating forces of time, remain as standing signals of architectural splendor and perfection. England has rifled some of these old temples to supply its museums with models for modern sculptors and artists. Among the most celebrated of the ancient oracles was Delphos. Princes and philosophers flocked thither for consultations. Upon the hights of Mount Parnassus stood the magnificent Temple of Apollo ; while at the foot was the spring of Castalia. Of this fountain, the Pythia, or priestess, drank : and in its crystal waters she bathed before invoking the presence of the gods. Then clothing herself in white, emblem of purity, she was magnetized by spirits, and spoke under their influence. Nestling near the base of Mars Hill is the prison-cave where superstitious Greeks confined that ancient Grecian philosopher and Spiritualist, Socrates. The coarsely constructed iron gate, nearly wasted away, is still shown the traveler. The dingy, chalky apartment seemed cut into the side of the hill, — a gloomy den to converse with a Crito and an Alcibiades. Greece and Judea awarded to their inspired teachers crosses and hemlock-draughts. Such was gratitude. Have the times, only in methods, materially changed?
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ATHENS. 879<br />
Never can we forget our sensations when casting a first<br />
glance at the Acropolis. Passing up the Propillion, or<br />
grand entrance, we had a fine view of Mars Hill, where<br />
Paul .preached the "Unknown God" to the Athenians.<br />
Two massive pillars of the Temple of Bacchus are still<br />
standing. There was a subterranean passage leading from<br />
this temple of mystic rites into the vast amphitheater.<br />
The Temple of Minerva and the Temple of the Winds are<br />
nearly piles of ruin. The Temple of the Muses, nine<br />
figures of choicest marble, must have been very beautiful.<br />
To the right of the Acropolis, massive and stately, is the<br />
Temple of Jupiter Olympus, many of whose proud columns,<br />
having defied the storms and devastating forces of time,<br />
remain as standing signals of architectural splendor and perfection.<br />
England has rifled some of these old temples to<br />
supply its museums with models for modern sculptors and<br />
artists.<br />
Among the most celebrated of the ancient oracles was<br />
Delphos. Princes and philosophers flocked thither for consultations.<br />
Upon the hights of Mount Parnassus stood the<br />
magnificent Temple of Apollo ; while at the foot was the<br />
spring of Castalia. Of this fountain, the Pythia, or priestess,<br />
drank : and in its crystal waters she bathed before<br />
invoking the presence of the gods. Then clothing herself<br />
in white, emblem of purity, she was magnetized by spirits,<br />
and spoke under their influence.<br />
Nestling near the base of Mars Hill is the prison-cave<br />
where superstitious Greeks confined that ancient Grecian<br />
philosopher and Spiritualist, Socrates. The coarsely constructed<br />
iron gate, nearly wasted away, is still shown the<br />
traveler. The dingy, chalky apartment seemed cut into the<br />
side of the hill, — a gloomy den to converse with a Crito<br />
and an Alcibiades. Greece and Judea awarded to their<br />
inspired teachers crosses and hemlock-draughts. Such was<br />
gratitude. Have the times, only in methods, materially<br />
changed?