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CHAPTER XXVin.<br />

ATHENS.<br />

" Dream on sweet souls in purpling seas<br />

Till we reach the land of<br />

Pericles."<br />

In life's golden time, when listening to the<br />

academic declamations<br />

of students upon the heroism of the ancient<br />

Greeks, we dreamed of treading the shores of the classic<br />

land,— land once pre-eminent in poetry, philosophy, painting,<br />

and the fine arts, and whose republics voiced the heavenwinged<br />

words of equality and freedom. But the Greeks of<br />

to-day are ancient Greeks no more. Civilizations move in<br />

cycles and epicycles. The Grecian mind has been tending<br />

downwards for full two thousand years. Its present glory<br />

consists of its ancient ruins. A wizard hand, grayed and<br />

grim, ever points backward to lost arts, lost grandeur<br />

Do we not remember Byron, whose lamp of life faded<br />

.<br />

under the Grecian skies he so<br />

musical his lines —<br />

!<br />

enthusiastically loved ? How<br />

" Know ye the land where the cypress and myrtle<br />

Are emblems of deeds that are done in their clime,<br />

Where the rage of the vulture, the love of the turtle,<br />

Now melt into sorrow, now madden to crime ?<br />

*Tis the clime of the East, — tis the land of the Sun<br />

Can he smile on such deeds as his children have done ? "<br />

PirsBus is the prominent port of Greece. Athens is five<br />

miles distant from this landing. There is a railroad. But<br />

here, here, is the once classic city.<br />

378

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