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370 ABOUND THE WOELD. and imposing position, its domes, its minarets, its sheltering groves of cypress, its Hlls in the distance, now crimsoning into the sear of autumn, and the blue waters that lie at the feet of these Moslem splendors. The Golden Horn is all that pen painters have pictured it. The Sea of Marmora is deep and beautiful. Hardly a ripple danced upon its surface during our passage over its crystal depths. What a magnificent harbor it would make, with Constantinople for the central capital of Europe, Asia, and Africa ! How rich in historic association is this city crowned with mosques ! Belisarius sailed from here into Africa, and along the Italian coast, while Justinian in 553 was erecting the present St. Sophia. On the opposite Asian shore, at Scutari, the Persians, after their conquests in Egypt and Syria, sat for a dozen years threatening the city. Here Tartars, Turks, and Croats first planted their unwelcome footsteps in Europe, inspiring the beginning of those fearful crusades. The first passed through Constantinople in 1097, Alexis reigning. About the year 1200, Baldwin conquered the city ; and in the fourteenth century the Ottomans in Asia Minor laid the foundations of the empire that now extends so far into Europe. In 1453 Mohammed II. entered this Christian city in great triumph, and transformed it as if by magic into a Moslem capital. It is said by the historian, that, entering the gates, he steered straight for St. Sophia, to discover the priests who were hiding in the cathedral. They having escaped by a subterranean passage, he hacked off the head of the brazen serpent Avith his sword, to manifest his hate of images, and all forms of idolatry. WALKS IN THE CITY. How true of this great cosmopolitan city of a million souls or more, that " distance lends enchantment to the view " ! On the deck of the ship in the harbor, the gigantic tower at Pera, the flotilla upon the Golden Horn, the Bosphorus with its suburban villages, the palaces of the sultan, the archi-
and TURKEY IN ASIA. — IONIA AND THE GREEKS. 371 tectural effects of the mosques shooting up like marble pillars, the dark plumes of the cypresses, the peopled hillsides upon the Asian coast, and the stately, massive hospital, scene of Florence Nightingale's noble, womanly work during the Crimean war, thrilled my soul with intense delight. But landing, and seeing the ruin, the filth, the dogs in the streets, the mixture of races, the- crowded, dirty bazaars, our poetry speedily chilled to rigid prose. Surely, — ' ' Things are not what they seem. Decline . decay characterize the sluggish Turkish nation. A deathly torpor has seized its vitals. It is truly the " sick man " of the Orient. Russia wants the vast domain. England and France say, " Hands off!" Germany and the central nations of Europe, think it well to maintain the balance of power as it is. May not the modernized phase of Turkish theology have something to do with this stupor ? The Moslems are fatalists. One article of their faith reads thus : *— " It is God who fixes the will of man, and he is therefore not free in his actions. There does not really exist any difference between good and evU; for all is reduced to unity, and God is the real author of the acts of mankind." " The old Turk residing in the interior of the empire," said Mr. BroAvn, secretary of the American Legation, "is a very different man from these modern Turks that linger around the capital. The former wears his full trousers and flowing robes, surmounts his head with the old-fashioned turban, winds his shawl or girdle around his waist, carries his pipes and pistols, prays to Allah five times a day, and, despising trick, treachery, and duplicity, is sincere and truthful." . In point of honesty, truthfulness, and self-respect, nearly all travelers unite in saying that the Mussulmans of the Orient are superior to Christians, — the Christian masses of * See J. P. Brown's Derv., p. 11.
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370 ABOUND THE WOELD.<br />
and imposing position, its domes, its minarets, its sheltering<br />
groves of cypress, its Hlls in the distance, now crimsoning<br />
into the sear of autumn, and the blue waters that lie at the<br />
feet of these Moslem splendors. The Golden Horn is all<br />
that pen painters have pictured it. The Sea of Marmora is<br />
deep and beautiful. Hardly a ripple danced upon its surface<br />
during our passage over its crystal depths. What a magnificent<br />
harbor it would make, with Constantinople for the<br />
central capital of Europe, Asia, and Africa !<br />
How rich in historic association is this city crowned with<br />
mosques ! Belisarius sailed from here into Africa, and along<br />
the Italian coast, while Justinian in 553 was erecting the<br />
present St. Sophia. On the opposite Asian shore, at Scutari,<br />
the Persians, after their conquests in Egypt and Syria, sat<br />
for a dozen years threatening the city. Here Tartars, Turks,<br />
and Croats first planted their unwelcome footsteps in Europe,<br />
inspiring the beginning of those fearful crusades. The first<br />
passed through Constantinople in 1097, Alexis reigning.<br />
About the year 1200, Baldwin conquered the city ; and in<br />
the fourteenth century the Ottomans in Asia Minor laid the<br />
foundations of the empire that now extends so far into Europe.<br />
In 1453 Mohammed II. entered this Christian city in<br />
great triumph, and transformed it as if by magic into a<br />
Moslem capital. It is said by the historian, that, entering<br />
the gates, he steered straight for St. Sophia, to discover the<br />
priests who were hiding in the cathedral. They having<br />
escaped by a subterranean passage, he hacked off the head<br />
of the brazen serpent Avith his sword, to manifest his hate of<br />
images, and all forms of idolatry.<br />
WALKS IN THE CITY.<br />
How true of this great cosmopolitan city of a million souls<br />
or more, that " distance lends enchantment to the view " !<br />
On the deck of the ship in the harbor, the gigantic tower at<br />
Pera, the flotilla upon the Golden Horn, the Bosphorus with<br />
its suburban villages, the palaces of the sultan, the archi-